tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33075468139797263962024-03-19T05:49:30.600-07:00 ~WastedWeeds~ "Wast·ed "(adjective) Archaic: of times gone by
<br>
"Weeds" (noun) Archaic: clothing/garmentsJennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.comBlogger50125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-80456151000866076662024-02-02T14:52:00.000-08:002024-02-03T12:32:47.177-08:00German Camp Follower (aka: The "Ice Cream Sundae" Outfit)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEfFKbXUSfyb53BF6EuivlSaSsG4VJZSF4odtenSNGE-AtPDNbFqh5fZYyNoIrEhLSoyFyICJZSaxxvzGFW6owhXXFfQ4ZEdLnij5zkY3xMFmeLiAqLQKc7tOe5t5khJ4rXvhIL5ijzz2R5mFi29q5gZTFp71zEWdqK-9A4Ntih2w50uoHI6VhSeEM1tk/s1153/CF_compare_05.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1010" data-original-width="1153" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEfFKbXUSfyb53BF6EuivlSaSsG4VJZSF4odtenSNGE-AtPDNbFqh5fZYyNoIrEhLSoyFyICJZSaxxvzGFW6owhXXFfQ4ZEdLnij5zkY3xMFmeLiAqLQKc7tOe5t5khJ4rXvhIL5ijzz2R5mFi29q5gZTFp71zEWdqK-9A4Ntih2w50uoHI6VhSeEM1tk/w400-h350/CF_compare_05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div>(<i>NOTE: </i>The bulk of this post was written in 2022 but it was not completed and published until two years later, so the timeline it describes might be a bit confusing)</div><div style="text-align: center;">***</div><div><br /></div><div>Like so many of my other outfits, this project started out as something entirely different.</div><div><br /></div><div>Well, not <i>entirely</i>... </div><div><br /></div><div>I've been in love with these images of Bavarian camp followers since I first started down the rabbit hole of 16th c. costumes (now <i>many</i> years ago).</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Dw25Eua9ktIZVu8f3bwlWI1VflpmpxekUsNM624c8yIoOFO6s26mIG98cr1Kt86_BPMgTUsbQkX51MCFoBC0iKmDTe2FuDURl4zf0P4LVb7dZMoytEoGxYRBoa4ZZB22eRZgb4_dC7Sc2VCIWfSW7epiz52xoSzHYbD7hLYNdnGiGIEMX4LXqgIU/s1673/E2F15941-AA66-4388-B336-140C5E7FD41E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1673" data-original-width="1139" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Dw25Eua9ktIZVu8f3bwlWI1VflpmpxekUsNM624c8yIoOFO6s26mIG98cr1Kt86_BPMgTUsbQkX51MCFoBC0iKmDTe2FuDURl4zf0P4LVb7dZMoytEoGxYRBoa4ZZB22eRZgb4_dC7Sc2VCIWfSW7epiz52xoSzHYbD7hLYNdnGiGIEMX4LXqgIU/w136-h200/E2F15941-AA66-4388-B336-140C5E7FD41E.jpeg" width="136" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtIKPv3pK4TAaOHBQFdsZ5Mnc0jyXYcBvW91mPtVgxO3hhPB_i83jUo0qfCn8G7JEAqTHk7KGPr2Or-dQAUTdfoRbcvHg06QP5u7dehajZimH5bfxyxWcPZwopw98akDm5iZTH9BkNgbr6dWzNpoUy0YCaldeLMTRNuYJmY0avca-NN9eS5IBKKAdl/s1648/CD513404-0B27-432B-A915-D5DCE86E83A8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1648" data-original-width="1099" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtIKPv3pK4TAaOHBQFdsZ5Mnc0jyXYcBvW91mPtVgxO3hhPB_i83jUo0qfCn8G7JEAqTHk7KGPr2Or-dQAUTdfoRbcvHg06QP5u7dehajZimH5bfxyxWcPZwopw98akDm5iZTH9BkNgbr6dWzNpoUy0YCaldeLMTRNuYJmY0avca-NN9eS5IBKKAdl/w133-h200/CD513404-0B27-432B-A915-D5DCE86E83A8.jpeg" width="133" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbbz0W7tDEeVIRX5xA0wci6_OCR8LpOBtnAkl_TLSTq7ni11Yzlw_q2lsTSOjxE1fZrJqkfo6b7efHsXJW5vp9l8j8o0cpP-EoMCvnTOWT6e0FgMh1mlpzuypSvHWwlfQk2sHF_ougk9npMZXqyd3bb7zs1jQr1YXyGAVnRBF_tYCNAZG9sZ3e94j/s1654/AC085D74-633D-4FC2-A98C-1C05AE6365AE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1654" data-original-width="1108" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbbz0W7tDEeVIRX5xA0wci6_OCR8LpOBtnAkl_TLSTq7ni11Yzlw_q2lsTSOjxE1fZrJqkfo6b7efHsXJW5vp9l8j8o0cpP-EoMCvnTOWT6e0FgMh1mlpzuypSvHWwlfQk2sHF_ougk9npMZXqyd3bb7zs1jQr1YXyGAVnRBF_tYCNAZG9sZ3e94j/w134-h200/AC085D74-633D-4FC2-A98C-1C05AE6365AE.jpeg" width="134" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>What can I say? I'm a sucker for ladies with weapons. </div><div>(As evidenced by my recent <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer-outfit.html">Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer outfit</a>).</div><div><br /></div><div>Throw in a big, stupid hat and I'm sold! </div><div>So of course that meant that this engraving quickly found its way onto my 'to do' list (read: the impossibly long queue of outfits which --in reality-- will never be finished).</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Dw25Eua9ktIZVu8f3bwlWI1VflpmpxekUsNM624c8yIoOFO6s26mIG98cr1Kt86_BPMgTUsbQkX51MCFoBC0iKmDTe2FuDURl4zf0P4LVb7dZMoytEoGxYRBoa4ZZB22eRZgb4_dC7Sc2VCIWfSW7epiz52xoSzHYbD7hLYNdnGiGIEMX4LXqgIU/s1673/E2F15941-AA66-4388-B336-140C5E7FD41E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1673" data-original-width="1139" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Dw25Eua9ktIZVu8f3bwlWI1VflpmpxekUsNM624c8yIoOFO6s26mIG98cr1Kt86_BPMgTUsbQkX51MCFoBC0iKmDTe2FuDURl4zf0P4LVb7dZMoytEoGxYRBoa4ZZB22eRZgb4_dC7Sc2VCIWfSW7epiz52xoSzHYbD7hLYNdnGiGIEMX4LXqgIU/w272-h400/E2F15941-AA66-4388-B336-140C5E7FD41E.jpeg" width="272" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>But it wasn't until I found this image that a palette suddenly solidified in my head and I knew I had to make it! </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjLxRzzGiXMf94ZzNBnxkMWd5R06XLzHKnPpDOZ1MVyF3oWuqWPP4gjIL7TmXS0DibOCzNJbdlAzHxkhVZ9N8jzBfRaYcszBiXCgXZnLne6HwBcQYBgS6hu6zyJVJ2PLkYELAMyakVEtJ3G7uMgZC2HWFvFpwmEDVf-VCGpCgWmssa4xXYoRyzcyP/s1168/FFF5AC4A-2286-4480-AADB-F2F7860DDE04.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="754" data-original-width="1168" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjLxRzzGiXMf94ZzNBnxkMWd5R06XLzHKnPpDOZ1MVyF3oWuqWPP4gjIL7TmXS0DibOCzNJbdlAzHxkhVZ9N8jzBfRaYcszBiXCgXZnLne6HwBcQYBgS6hu6zyJVJ2PLkYELAMyakVEtJ3G7uMgZC2HWFvFpwmEDVf-VCGpCgWmssa4xXYoRyzcyP/w400-h259/FFF5AC4A-2286-4480-AADB-F2F7860DDE04.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Stammbuch Andreas von Schwerin</span></div><div><br /></div><div>So up the queue it went. Designs were planned! Fabric purchased! Mockups started!</div><div><br /></div><div>But as I started researching the outfit and looking at more images of German camp followers I came across this watercolour and simply could not get it out of my head.</div><div>Because, frankly, it was one of the most ridiculous images I had seen. </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5JdSPyXUMMuomH3goGx3_NMVnMAAd40Dp8Gn9yZY3t2alA2rIbxzoM4-tVizDsLOd0rEwx8JXa0O-II7S170KrmnMZuMOlDrPTBxgplbrmpTHc7sdkHrPlyYZw1deYvf2PCT48wBT8JTY-gRsP139UEMRXMICKrbvUn4a6rMtKLvPirsu6PtMP7ZF/s1246/camp-01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1246" data-original-width="918" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5JdSPyXUMMuomH3goGx3_NMVnMAAd40Dp8Gn9yZY3t2alA2rIbxzoM4-tVizDsLOd0rEwx8JXa0O-II7S170KrmnMZuMOlDrPTBxgplbrmpTHc7sdkHrPlyYZw1deYvf2PCT48wBT8JTY-gRsP139UEMRXMICKrbvUn4a6rMtKLvPirsu6PtMP7ZF/w295-h400/camp-01.jpg" width="295" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Amicorum Album of Nicolas Engelhardt 1573-1612</span></div><div><br /></div><div>Look at it! It just screams Neapolitan Ice Cream (with a dash of pistachio for good measure).</div><div><br /></div><div>And I <i>love</i> it. I mean, come on! There's a shoulder chicken! <i>A SHOULDER CHICKEN.</i></div><div><br /></div><div>All other plans were abandoned and I threw myself into the project at such an uncharacteristic pace that I didn't really document the process at all (partially because I was trying to get in under the wire for the the closing weekend of the 2022 SoCal Renaissance Faire season)</div><div>From start to finish the whole thing took about 3 months, which for me is <i>ridiculously</i> quick.</div><div><br /></div><div>Regardless, I'll go the through the process as best I can....</div><div><br /></div><div>But first, I had to figure out what it was I was looking at. </div><div>It's a tricky prospect at the best of times when one is dealing with oil paintings and etchings...but a rough watercolour? This made things considerably more difficult.</div><div><br /></div><div>For example, what are going on with her sleeves? Are we looking at her smock or something else entirely?</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4us4fn2Nr7U6EF_Yk-L_oMy6JmK76vpkX5QI_wkJi0KU86ioC5_eNf1HmTLHdXYq1XOh2ooIJBuwkaWnODqZfWSZSJgh0Taul4Vvpb-QAWdHHCJcA87FGydcaZtdorpy1BzKOUSXboEukVAC6bgbMNpifmITBYCnO9rprzaGfrMELyRcor5amUm6wZUk/s426/1D1AF5DB-83C2-4721-B628-3D0888BCB120.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="426" data-original-width="276" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4us4fn2Nr7U6EF_Yk-L_oMy6JmK76vpkX5QI_wkJi0KU86ioC5_eNf1HmTLHdXYq1XOh2ooIJBuwkaWnODqZfWSZSJgh0Taul4Vvpb-QAWdHHCJcA87FGydcaZtdorpy1BzKOUSXboEukVAC6bgbMNpifmITBYCnO9rprzaGfrMELyRcor5amUm6wZUk/s320/1D1AF5DB-83C2-4721-B628-3D0888BCB120.jpeg" width="207" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>My first thought was "Yes, obviously those are her under-sleeves." But it's a question worth examining, as it's not as straightforward as it seems.</div><div><br /></div><div>Firstly, while this fashion for poofy white sleeves seems to be a very German look, you do also see sheer over-sleeves in other countries. However, they are often half length and/or clearly worn over close-fitting sleeves.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJF0sYfHFTR2SuJNDpFhf10ZxqEidZtVyI8tzd4vDeUKO12uDF3J9PQPwrs-hxnTr5fgBkZCNri00gAma8CK7rHUVoEHwUFsFMqQHxFEGaGvtO3FN4PwMeTeLPRh0Q6Dm1y05UHweltrE7p14VbRgum2rQU13o9Zr2iskoUNQe31x1zxNG66SlAGTq/s1544/6DD2B8B4-B897-41DE-BD79-C4AA2D411D65.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1544" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJF0sYfHFTR2SuJNDpFhf10ZxqEidZtVyI8tzd4vDeUKO12uDF3J9PQPwrs-hxnTr5fgBkZCNri00gAma8CK7rHUVoEHwUFsFMqQHxFEGaGvtO3FN4PwMeTeLPRh0Q6Dm1y05UHweltrE7p14VbRgum2rQU13o9Zr2iskoUNQe31x1zxNG66SlAGTq/s320/6DD2B8B4-B897-41DE-BD79-C4AA2D411D65.jpeg" width="249" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYAZPrpgqq8i8ZDfcIIEFsFDjp8RWrckDNPH7T781IXtGb6_Y4G1cSuqV3YOL0Wh5QhnIkepyp_T65tJvjYogpKh0aLSnaSvrA9N9L_zkyVF2hIWw5yOf-EKJrKnnqiod67TLWbxC-Wrai9ll9j5YjRHyGscAittbv7LZGBBYWZTu2QvXJMp_U13yC/s800/CAFE263A-2B7C-4558-8693-4B8186CFC719.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYAZPrpgqq8i8ZDfcIIEFsFDjp8RWrckDNPH7T781IXtGb6_Y4G1cSuqV3YOL0Wh5QhnIkepyp_T65tJvjYogpKh0aLSnaSvrA9N9L_zkyVF2hIWw5yOf-EKJrKnnqiod67TLWbxC-Wrai9ll9j5YjRHyGscAittbv7LZGBBYWZTu2QvXJMp_U13yC/s320/CAFE263A-2B7C-4558-8693-4B8186CFC719.jpeg" width="224" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Unknown Lady, 1566 (Neatherlands) & Mary Hill 1560s (England)</div><div><br /></div><div>In contrast, the German version really goes in for full-length, highly gathered and voluminous sleeves.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjbV8SkMcXJTAmKa2CP8YPO2vbEwvDWsbce2MCRN5rlUlQNM1cl0hAWW_4r69Uhq-_5LuhQVeFdyrBisO-7HaD_OkGxMteKG-OHJPuYICADV-0efAs7t8xxl0cptCyMzWVS0p4E6HU6eEyYTyW6XNvmxqKl-SLdujI7J4x7H-rFUzh_1Rdv78Nbmn8/s468/A10CB4E3-3F25-4673-ADE1-369142821E1A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="468" data-original-width="365" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjbV8SkMcXJTAmKa2CP8YPO2vbEwvDWsbce2MCRN5rlUlQNM1cl0hAWW_4r69Uhq-_5LuhQVeFdyrBisO-7HaD_OkGxMteKG-OHJPuYICADV-0efAs7t8xxl0cptCyMzWVS0p4E6HU6eEyYTyW6XNvmxqKl-SLdujI7J4x7H-rFUzh_1Rdv78Nbmn8/s320/A10CB4E3-3F25-4673-ADE1-369142821E1A.jpeg" width="250" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUXWq1Iz2PyXZCpBUudeQa5dFazqHbPQkMGRAfcxOsMHQGPRg5YR6OvYLOJhpfX6KMql9X3yHSpCuMmMk9Jel_rT2B3jbcqzbBt8cSdJlcZFhC_DUKUhcYChKS19Z6JgqmMId9tuIYk_gvBNvkfjPqZkrDJ4zfAuiehC9q6KExBMxUVhPl2Iapyii2/s1487/7B8D4949-BFC1-4ECE-AD2D-876A63681E01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1487" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUXWq1Iz2PyXZCpBUudeQa5dFazqHbPQkMGRAfcxOsMHQGPRg5YR6OvYLOJhpfX6KMql9X3yHSpCuMmMk9Jel_rT2B3jbcqzbBt8cSdJlcZFhC_DUKUhcYChKS19Z6JgqmMId9tuIYk_gvBNvkfjPqZkrDJ4zfAuiehC9q6KExBMxUVhPl2Iapyii2/s320/7B8D4949-BFC1-4ECE-AD2D-876A63681E01.jpeg" width="258" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzQPogQ3KNdveswfckmoVehWUyAq3X81hRzsaHqdUbLPwgbcMxn1nlJCmfxNtGUpbTHU5gbvJeqGZ443NVpSaf5Ghk7dc_XzykSPU5lbQU4hTTx5tuc6pdgoFL7WyIxVyk8zgOkU-AR4kod40fYAvRK47fg3iyencbOCOa-99Lg1CGEIeAYobr5ZcL/s843/D062BAD3-4BFA-458E-9AA3-668E97970FE1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="843" data-original-width="609" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzQPogQ3KNdveswfckmoVehWUyAq3X81hRzsaHqdUbLPwgbcMxn1nlJCmfxNtGUpbTHU5gbvJeqGZ443NVpSaf5Ghk7dc_XzykSPU5lbQU4hTTx5tuc6pdgoFL7WyIxVyk8zgOkU-AR4kod40fYAvRK47fg3iyencbOCOa-99Lg1CGEIeAYobr5ZcL/s320/D062BAD3-4BFA-458E-9AA3-668E97970FE1.jpeg" width="231" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqhs1GQJjBGVl9s0e3BJfliN6BIljpRQnfq6D8iB83C15rGX43kFvLZvoaOLWV_czsb39lSx0BQYNVLgwwo9lZdlfr7W2jAlleNJK--ywcwzaiIBSs0wuAFxbXjWRHlGO8LHJSJixEJT3FRXk4L16mLF9NIdd-i6u9CZebS86kZPsFp9ABWmbaZxb4/s694/688BFEF8-2629-49D3-A434-3FA5B5FD446B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="694" data-original-width="581" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqhs1GQJjBGVl9s0e3BJfliN6BIljpRQnfq6D8iB83C15rGX43kFvLZvoaOLWV_czsb39lSx0BQYNVLgwwo9lZdlfr7W2jAlleNJK--ywcwzaiIBSs0wuAFxbXjWRHlGO8LHJSJixEJT3FRXk4L16mLF9NIdd-i6u9CZebS86kZPsFp9ABWmbaZxb4/s320/688BFEF8-2629-49D3-A434-3FA5B5FD446B.jpeg" width="268" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div>But again, are these visible smock sleeves or separate over-sleeves?</div><div>Some images are very obviously made of a silk or patterned fabric, so very strongly indicating an over-sleeve.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmCnF_r735lYXbQmwIzqytzHQ47TRfNbbzFWao-tQR85oyGvgSfSIgFIAInjCcafs7J5x2EoWcDrRGkdz8XUSGrSStpPiVIDMrclj8o1WZirIHiVNs13GY1v1-2NyUCxxwrZMFVi7Xnv-AwmknovpdDeseYcUZUW6neAoGx_LgHmgE3zkp4S5wpKri/s1482/218E43EE-9BD9-4DFF-84FA-7B353CFFC480.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1482" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmCnF_r735lYXbQmwIzqytzHQ47TRfNbbzFWao-tQR85oyGvgSfSIgFIAInjCcafs7J5x2EoWcDrRGkdz8XUSGrSStpPiVIDMrclj8o1WZirIHiVNs13GY1v1-2NyUCxxwrZMFVi7Xnv-AwmknovpdDeseYcUZUW6neAoGx_LgHmgE3zkp4S5wpKri/s320/218E43EE-9BD9-4DFF-84FA-7B353CFFC480.jpeg" width="259" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnms1f4sT9rWmOmzVjNx-DZ7RP_5KIxeZbnjAqy7WJxR87bIDsJMW8C_XvU2dDC_0kuSxg196XPLPlGWLADQGPnj0uOdlssunLkPBbgBnuF6bYCqdBxxPajeT6N1Ms71hOpW3id6PQejh6FNs5utJwuBspxVESQbQqAqqKfcqTh3_Xh2AvY8Ozr3eZ/s1688/FAFF46FE-D385-4FE9-B66D-D233127F3C95.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1688" data-original-width="1105" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnms1f4sT9rWmOmzVjNx-DZ7RP_5KIxeZbnjAqy7WJxR87bIDsJMW8C_XvU2dDC_0kuSxg196XPLPlGWLADQGPnj0uOdlssunLkPBbgBnuF6bYCqdBxxPajeT6N1Ms71hOpW3id6PQejh6FNs5utJwuBspxVESQbQqAqqKfcqTh3_Xh2AvY8Ozr3eZ/s320/FAFF46FE-D385-4FE9-B66D-D233127F3C95.jpeg" width="209" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>While others incorporate blackwork or even insertion lace, suggesting a visible linen smock.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOxGUjQfTvkazCPSBwn3uMR2IHb3oLgFtEQemP886U--oy0RQl3O42Cl2rZ5ITD8sooaVkh0gg0XFpE-l_7rrhpVYfBySUreJ06Gk6XpbcLwwhRMQ2aLyO1tmcw7lQ6Ub0GqopIX2InKV3U4myRxYpV3koUC1rKmPLegjC0cZYfcnlJ18QdKP1zj8H/s1664/C8DB3AEA-5093-45EC-8FDA-9980193C78F7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1664" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOxGUjQfTvkazCPSBwn3uMR2IHb3oLgFtEQemP886U--oy0RQl3O42Cl2rZ5ITD8sooaVkh0gg0XFpE-l_7rrhpVYfBySUreJ06Gk6XpbcLwwhRMQ2aLyO1tmcw7lQ6Ub0GqopIX2InKV3U4myRxYpV3koUC1rKmPLegjC0cZYfcnlJ18QdKP1zj8H/s320/C8DB3AEA-5093-45EC-8FDA-9980193C78F7.jpeg" width="231" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymXGUMFImyeaPjtothMTz1xnRU8jEOuM72ul1Y79WfdRHUOHQLm3rLgQgsIdp0u2efRKcc69hQasbPb6syFOQ1is4I_ibFAgDSX6kzKaa-B-1JK0HbDQuze1wgPRN4ykCofKiWsPZSC_9-mmv2Y1Zo8DfDLqarpXd0plvtpTEcxHu5KvXT6_Sj7nM/s600/EA4E6DC7-E013-4820-98DE-4F8A1066ADE8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="490" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymXGUMFImyeaPjtothMTz1xnRU8jEOuM72ul1Y79WfdRHUOHQLm3rLgQgsIdp0u2efRKcc69hQasbPb6syFOQ1is4I_ibFAgDSX6kzKaa-B-1JK0HbDQuze1wgPRN4ykCofKiWsPZSC_9-mmv2Y1Zo8DfDLqarpXd0plvtpTEcxHu5KvXT6_Sj7nM/s320/EA4E6DC7-E013-4820-98DE-4F8A1066ADE8.jpeg" width="261" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw84TtD2mxDsLK71cFxZv5TvBJZFv5LEoJ3W13aBvg5rjVL_5MaNnKiTJvs5tLcW9AZLBTAxdFtuIR20hf3C6ygS2yIkBZCgIeBH_6zdkaguTYdUMKSmeL1Cg09coL9Fih_KExTHFdKdGYiwb3h2raG7f4yw3KUU6EaJgTcpl0CoyoDBUPMEDxTj4e/s600/C42AFFF0-8430-405D-9486-105730DF1540.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="445" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw84TtD2mxDsLK71cFxZv5TvBJZFv5LEoJ3W13aBvg5rjVL_5MaNnKiTJvs5tLcW9AZLBTAxdFtuIR20hf3C6ygS2yIkBZCgIeBH_6zdkaguTYdUMKSmeL1Cg09coL9Fih_KExTHFdKdGYiwb3h2raG7f4yw3KUU6EaJgTcpl0CoyoDBUPMEDxTj4e/s320/C42AFFF0-8430-405D-9486-105730DF1540.jpeg" width="237" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj50d6LtYVFmBgEVLDY4wb0VKKSURGGqAomxuX8NsnsVkpZ85GW0WStxTnVOIiSRcWGAiKsSusa9-LAb7cNyuf7POAcBIMFv90Q2CLn-3pIuK8Ts7fQXiEpENbi_SC6rQRGHym9NeBUrA1g5zSGMM9MyRGS9HyBhjfG6s2dsp3hjDfADVL9TET272IU/s613/C51D2971-DBAF-483F-8BF8-5ABCA4A9F0F5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj50d6LtYVFmBgEVLDY4wb0VKKSURGGqAomxuX8NsnsVkpZ85GW0WStxTnVOIiSRcWGAiKsSusa9-LAb7cNyuf7POAcBIMFv90Q2CLn-3pIuK8Ts7fQXiEpENbi_SC6rQRGHym9NeBUrA1g5zSGMM9MyRGS9HyBhjfG6s2dsp3hjDfADVL9TET272IU/s320/C51D2971-DBAF-483F-8BF8-5ABCA4A9F0F5.jpeg" width="261" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Now, the argument has been made that women <i>never</i> <i>EVER </i>—under any circumstances!— displayed their undershirts, and therefore these must be something else.</div><div><br /></div><div>I have to admit that this doesn't hold water for me and seems to be one of those costuming 'rules' that doesn't really bear close scrutiny.</div><div><br /></div><div>Many genre paintings of working women are shown in their shirt sleeves and even bare arms.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPd8JmBuf74CQOEtr-r5HBNQlDz4fAmleGKP5rQCGlrX6eXmoRTrUPQCe_ROYkOtgfBug6fHZHVcKsQ2x6cW4Z2TqlaR8LfSy4J-eRIpIc2WBAK5UPvLsxep_tcENPPJ8wCeeSBdMx0YXN6lRzbaL54eWKu80xuDZq1pdzWfXTlI90dnK6PMYuKt7Z/s640/D0688576-FF1F-4779-92F6-7E0C8A7D823A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="590" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPd8JmBuf74CQOEtr-r5HBNQlDz4fAmleGKP5rQCGlrX6eXmoRTrUPQCe_ROYkOtgfBug6fHZHVcKsQ2x6cW4Z2TqlaR8LfSy4J-eRIpIc2WBAK5UPvLsxep_tcENPPJ8wCeeSBdMx0YXN6lRzbaL54eWKu80xuDZq1pdzWfXTlI90dnK6PMYuKt7Z/s320/D0688576-FF1F-4779-92F6-7E0C8A7D823A.jpeg" width="295" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheKSy5d6NGlc98xKF-ke_vaXdAlnFack3Gwq9g6L30l2cu0nHz60AiQ_wZNihJSd7CJL_WeIGza3g3eio3m8jMcaCPEka8NRuwTTBG9RXSg3NietscX72bVlJhqYoxGFMCY9Ji2SZeRu6rw8TPG2ZfBFBAZA259RHfUuSU3a31WdRXlvZApirqOpya/s1452/4B3B3565-684D-485E-80B7-B937FA7AEEF9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1452" data-original-width="984" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheKSy5d6NGlc98xKF-ke_vaXdAlnFack3Gwq9g6L30l2cu0nHz60AiQ_wZNihJSd7CJL_WeIGza3g3eio3m8jMcaCPEka8NRuwTTBG9RXSg3NietscX72bVlJhqYoxGFMCY9Ji2SZeRu6rw8TPG2ZfBFBAZA259RHfUuSU3a31WdRXlvZApirqOpya/s320/4B3B3565-684D-485E-80B7-B937FA7AEEF9.jpeg" width="217" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>And camp followers are also shown in similar states of undress.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdkbP3rs_wzVN7TVzgnvfI1tqV_BgAh1-_Ca3D1bQWGcMZOjPKafOTD2FBpiTXkMCkyeuPdooGQGA3BBEwcVpx1myjWKqyiouXjDQaGmTNkpX9voG3FKwYMqECMo6tw7cSubu9ngEr5L6sLckMFPRjd1LFfYCJdVCBQTOq6ZBlYoEPYaYNylCp1IN0/s1200/D37E5740-B324-4CDA-8B9F-8591631726C3.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1060" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdkbP3rs_wzVN7TVzgnvfI1tqV_BgAh1-_Ca3D1bQWGcMZOjPKafOTD2FBpiTXkMCkyeuPdooGQGA3BBEwcVpx1myjWKqyiouXjDQaGmTNkpX9voG3FKwYMqECMo6tw7cSubu9ngEr5L6sLckMFPRjd1LFfYCJdVCBQTOq6ZBlYoEPYaYNylCp1IN0/s320/D37E5740-B324-4CDA-8B9F-8591631726C3.jpeg" width="283" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">"Sacking of Wommelgen" (detail) Vrancx, 1630</div><div><br /></div><div>But really what clinched it for me was "Die Hausbücher der Nürnberger" which depicted a series of illustrations of German working people, including many of women who appear to be wearing this style (with sleeves worn both down and rolled up, which to me indicates these are not too separate sleeves)</div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-c3YsYXVgACWu5CUiH9YGowaDSA3dzSLV_qY-nbXxr7b5JClD3zRICWCQlXz-TjZ9CawzbhOzF1VKswwm6h66vQ_N1PCE0zxmnFnIH3AEGI2ACqpJcRVVdHh9Cp6tozkFT4sxRN6NFrZ1hKba9bSAXZYntsO3wKr-yGDLFwMU6Olnt7L0JoINc021/s731/8D7BA4EC-8FDA-40FB-BC4B-1A99570FEF75.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="731" data-original-width="596" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-c3YsYXVgACWu5CUiH9YGowaDSA3dzSLV_qY-nbXxr7b5JClD3zRICWCQlXz-TjZ9CawzbhOzF1VKswwm6h66vQ_N1PCE0zxmnFnIH3AEGI2ACqpJcRVVdHh9Cp6tozkFT4sxRN6NFrZ1hKba9bSAXZYntsO3wKr-yGDLFwMU6Olnt7L0JoINc021/s320/8D7BA4EC-8FDA-40FB-BC4B-1A99570FEF75.jpeg" width="261" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw4sxqXinw4mOZBlFLCxgqGSVGrfll5Sfv9bNECmLVh-vBmTxAfKT1sHnGkBr9KgGHQ7D9zd9JzhRNoELw19Y8uAXz0sD90RiB0sz1ldtFWMM2C83Bf_BBQkW9ytyvfhvNuZVbeSp3Z-DWa9ei00JBIsHRLbf1rgmZgg2zesmh0uGCay8QKWxD0YAd/s776/7EC9046A-9A11-4F1C-B638-618BA4045380.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="776" data-original-width="560" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw4sxqXinw4mOZBlFLCxgqGSVGrfll5Sfv9bNECmLVh-vBmTxAfKT1sHnGkBr9KgGHQ7D9zd9JzhRNoELw19Y8uAXz0sD90RiB0sz1ldtFWMM2C83Bf_BBQkW9ytyvfhvNuZVbeSp3Z-DWa9ei00JBIsHRLbf1rgmZgg2zesmh0uGCay8QKWxD0YAd/s320/7EC9046A-9A11-4F1C-B638-618BA4045380.jpeg" width="231" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpgKbdjgTwDMyQ25RhtF1jgNtA000FG4CG2DDnICq5wcnwcvLyqWxwu3Usec0GoumHBEEoWaJ1CfeqhTEdEDI4FNDPbhl6nEU3JcbNJqIMSqLHeoWLBF1j5KLCBwAwhtxSc-6iTM9ggR7PzqN4WNYNW-yAxYBoOmjkXIE3KIliHoBmdiRwk-4rkwlY/s778/A22218F4-4F52-4462-9806-43BDE2B14C34.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="601" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpgKbdjgTwDMyQ25RhtF1jgNtA000FG4CG2DDnICq5wcnwcvLyqWxwu3Usec0GoumHBEEoWaJ1CfeqhTEdEDI4FNDPbhl6nEU3JcbNJqIMSqLHeoWLBF1j5KLCBwAwhtxSc-6iTM9ggR7PzqN4WNYNW-yAxYBoOmjkXIE3KIliHoBmdiRwk-4rkwlY/s320/A22218F4-4F52-4462-9806-43BDE2B14C34.jpeg" width="247" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe0BrWV_wW1sOaIOTba_fzj7ZZSmqPtm_Tr_1SEpIYS-Nlm-WcSg3AVEoecruAeKjDj261O73VDWAv_4aVw1La0Bkes1D1xgzMJRpt3Ll0F1lk8EBano9oKyMq7_1lfenXsbffugqLkpmVrKIpN_2_RnUtUTpCODzbXuSiAULtbgHzhnKgIewxnYCI/s781/7E64ECCF-CFBE-4058-98A9-2C9E7D8565B4.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="781" data-original-width="547" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe0BrWV_wW1sOaIOTba_fzj7ZZSmqPtm_Tr_1SEpIYS-Nlm-WcSg3AVEoecruAeKjDj261O73VDWAv_4aVw1La0Bkes1D1xgzMJRpt3Ll0F1lk8EBano9oKyMq7_1lfenXsbffugqLkpmVrKIpN_2_RnUtUTpCODzbXuSiAULtbgHzhnKgIewxnYCI/s320/7E64ECCF-CFBE-4058-98A9-2C9E7D8565B4.jpeg" width="224" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div>So in the end, while I suspect that not <i>ALL</i> of the German images show under-sleeves (and quite a few definitely<i> don't)</i> the camp follower is --in all probability-- shown in her shirt sleeves.</div><div><br /></div><div>And even is she's not, she's wearing a fashion that's clearly intended to mimic an exposed shirt and when it comes to dressing for California heat that basically amounts to the same thing...</div><div><br /></div><div>So no over sleeves for me!</div><div><br /></div><div>(Okay, I know that was a very protracted and roundabout way to come back to where I started in the first place...but I like to have a reason behind what I do, even in that reasoning is somewhat motivated)</div><div><br /></div><div>Next question...and this one is a little trickier:</div><div>What is going on at the bottom of this doublet?</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKDSufSBCAqyH_12ZgjZMSij39dq78nGHoo0SViQcTZqQOUj8O0UZcHuvJUxI2qvDpMgrzk1h4eb4bIixKKYoEmpfaGXMk7Q3tKpgnCrU46YLTgPAG6Zn8xUxk0LoBUpOJNB0rsEkX0HhFFNzKUU145OvIeOTOQnjECMzuygt75dHmZ0hpCKzX0iUXaY/s1433/IMG_2887.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1433" data-original-width="1260" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKDSufSBCAqyH_12ZgjZMSij39dq78nGHoo0SViQcTZqQOUj8O0UZcHuvJUxI2qvDpMgrzk1h4eb4bIixKKYoEmpfaGXMk7Q3tKpgnCrU46YLTgPAG6Zn8xUxk0LoBUpOJNB0rsEkX0HhFFNzKUU145OvIeOTOQnjECMzuygt75dHmZ0hpCKzX0iUXaY/s320/IMG_2887.jpeg" width="281" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1loJNHb1s4GvcxbFtBpf0lzzbqsDv9L6jk7gDIYST1ehsjF9IkSFm7SwvOaPqNVNYqZRe8VkTuJ51Sa5ETce4krMM9FN3e90AuVF7jG6MBffLNaGNbG2wKUxQVPwlSLe3MHGDGBjwSNUZt8k10AWrZBIICsqLPA814NAq_QrGSIosLV6K_e7DE40qOlc/s1284/IMG_2888.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="831" data-original-width="1284" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1loJNHb1s4GvcxbFtBpf0lzzbqsDv9L6jk7gDIYST1ehsjF9IkSFm7SwvOaPqNVNYqZRe8VkTuJ51Sa5ETce4krMM9FN3e90AuVF7jG6MBffLNaGNbG2wKUxQVPwlSLe3MHGDGBjwSNUZt8k10AWrZBIICsqLPA814NAq_QrGSIosLV6K_e7DE40qOlc/s320/IMG_2888.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>There appears to be a slight point and a thick black line running around the bottom of the bodice. What is this meant to represent?</div><div>Is it a line of trim? A belt? Or just a particularly heavy handed outline?</div><div><br /></div><div>I rejected the belt idea pretty quickly, reasoning that she was already wearing one belt (to bustle up her skirts) and it looked to come to too much of a point to be anything other than part of the doublet. But what? </div><div>I can't recall ever having seen trim placed along the bottom edge of a bodice of any sort, unless it was on tabs or 'skirts'.</div><div><br /></div><div>I thought it perhaps it was a feature unique to German fashion (which until now I was relatively unfamiliar with) but despite looking I couldn't find anything similar.</div><div><br /></div><div>I did however, find this image.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvve6Oc10FSiwySht08wjiACqVCvwLJA3JULEPPH0yyhB_iuLvKdbuwaetTdycmgpS6-kkknW4wRjggDcTnNsk5V9-rm4PXndnIC3SePo50QKPYaC20C6CDPmir_aParj5HZCSbpuGcwNQgNmiSmbaz2qlwhLSWfFst4jVVSKWzBStFpkx-t76UN4G/s772/E74B6245-E20F-4DCB-BE2E-2CB950F7997A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="772" data-original-width="657" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvve6Oc10FSiwySht08wjiACqVCvwLJA3JULEPPH0yyhB_iuLvKdbuwaetTdycmgpS6-kkknW4wRjggDcTnNsk5V9-rm4PXndnIC3SePo50QKPYaC20C6CDPmir_aParj5HZCSbpuGcwNQgNmiSmbaz2qlwhLSWfFst4jVVSKWzBStFpkx-t76UN4G/w340-h400/E74B6245-E20F-4DCB-BE2E-2CB950F7997A.jpeg" width="340" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Another watercolour, also German (again from "Die Hausbücher der Nürnberger")</div><div>For my money, it appears to show a woman in a long sleeved waistcoat or doublet, with a seam at the waist and a narrow bodice 'skirt'. The bottom of the skirt appears to have a darker, denser line which can be interpreted as trim (to match the trim on the cuffs and center front).</div><div><br /></div><div>So I decide to opt for something similar and plan to make a narrow peplum/skirt, but pointed, to match the shape of the doublet.</div><div>I don't know if it's right, but it seemed better than trimming the bottom of the doublet.</div><div><br /></div><div>So with that, I jump into construction...</div><div><br /></div><div>First, I purchased the fabric for the skirt (the most bubblegum pink wool I can find!) and see if anything from my stash works for the rest.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0sFwY86xB8Y-0E6ik266SjrD57FQb4wpJEgCpxqj-pWGOewoHDDU5xBYMi3S7LxgehUZO90FJetbJl1t2BxxITNNhaYqFPyGIRymCkNOul9jFleAHnziKprOuOVyAqkNKR8447UdIFIHYUPaDqROBt0opXnlR57fItOMqbTn6uBW4uh1ckEqSDrRr8V4/s4021/71A8EC67-8A61-458F-B5B3-FC2D81F97198.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4021" data-original-width="2609" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0sFwY86xB8Y-0E6ik266SjrD57FQb4wpJEgCpxqj-pWGOewoHDDU5xBYMi3S7LxgehUZO90FJetbJl1t2BxxITNNhaYqFPyGIRymCkNOul9jFleAHnziKprOuOVyAqkNKR8447UdIFIHYUPaDqROBt0opXnlR57fItOMqbTn6uBW4uh1ckEqSDrRr8V4/w260-h400/71A8EC67-8A61-458F-B5B3-FC2D81F97198.jpeg" width="260" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>I think light green wool is probably a slightly better match to the watercolor, but in the end opt for a punchier green linen (though I still might swap it out for the wool later).</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9i_362ODUzn-Z0lHE4tUXUbKda627Dmv7dIR4yavTpiCVKxL1dqWWwAClc2V95XXyVy9HIBioO3Enwg8dy6BKnTqnrU0kzkNJxNSAWnyv55QCb3T1vvV20zAYyq2zFavk7ZHDBuD3gfKluXwTmMFlXr27Y8VUBybOehjAm5XtsZB_qXDZBXzS6mcY5Go/s3176/13295CF3-BABE-4CCF-85A2-2C8F329EEC63.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3176" data-original-width="2657" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9i_362ODUzn-Z0lHE4tUXUbKda627Dmv7dIR4yavTpiCVKxL1dqWWwAClc2V95XXyVy9HIBioO3Enwg8dy6BKnTqnrU0kzkNJxNSAWnyv55QCb3T1vvV20zAYyq2zFavk7ZHDBuD3gfKluXwTmMFlXr27Y8VUBybOehjAm5XtsZB_qXDZBXzS6mcY5Go/s320/13295CF3-BABE-4CCF-85A2-2C8F329EEC63.jpeg" width="268" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div>Next, it's time to start on the doublet.</div><div><br /></div><div>This is definitely the most labour intensive piece of the outfit. However, the fact that it was sleeveless and didn't close with buttons meant I wouldn’t have to deal with the trickiest aspects of a tailored garment and therefore could get something made relatively quickly.</div><div><br /></div><div>It's based on pattern I've used before: a mustard brown doublet based on the Modern Maker proportional <i>bara</i> method. The only difference will be to the doublet skirts.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIM4_ODUXZRG1A0glNIJxqQABW6RCMvpTn5kjAK3FqKWcHnCpPh_BbtC9Y9I-tBwGrMYXKLhI6XhyLlWqeYdBaLc_dRVm9Y_HGmwmhMFJmWxAGyZ16KixZd06QyTBMDJcgp1NWLLC0cV5GkqANjTcxFy7oJwdMKWvsOidIuYA--2ZoIGRzdUk2yPKc/s1664/E205F316-4005-4485-A173-19B03311A63B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1598" data-original-width="1664" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIM4_ODUXZRG1A0glNIJxqQABW6RCMvpTn5kjAK3FqKWcHnCpPh_BbtC9Y9I-tBwGrMYXKLhI6XhyLlWqeYdBaLc_dRVm9Y_HGmwmhMFJmWxAGyZ16KixZd06QyTBMDJcgp1NWLLC0cV5GkqANjTcxFy7oJwdMKWvsOidIuYA--2ZoIGRzdUk2yPKc/s320/E205F316-4005-4485-A173-19B03311A63B.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I didn't have the time to document the whole construction process, but the writeup for above doublet can be found <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/02/mustard-brown-doublet.html"><i>HERE</i></a> and <i><a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/03/mustard-brown-doublet-v20-mix-match.html">HERE</a>)</i></div><div><br /></div><div>This doublet started the same way.</div><div><br /></div><div>First a mockup (with narrow peplum) is made to see how it fits over the skirt.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKadVaXChyphenhyphenOiJqpWs__Xt1-exZAsSykWrdjONK0cjtbuWi-s6jEGX7CSCv23bzXTHgVX5mkwct3CGXtFGgDe_QdiUCouol6EfQuJRnHciUudBX092ixSiSY8oqF7KwhvTgScEEzaAW1i9P-iUeQvj6Bwt1WCUDffnz_Kmz2yH7m7OOyUIaaiTLX_y-24I/s901/3D48E03D-265C-4750-A939-A6AE7DD3A472.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="901" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKadVaXChyphenhyphenOiJqpWs__Xt1-exZAsSykWrdjONK0cjtbuWi-s6jEGX7CSCv23bzXTHgVX5mkwct3CGXtFGgDe_QdiUCouol6EfQuJRnHciUudBX092ixSiSY8oqF7KwhvTgScEEzaAW1i9P-iUeQvj6Bwt1WCUDffnz_Kmz2yH7m7OOyUIaaiTLX_y-24I/s320/3D48E03D-265C-4750-A939-A6AE7DD3A472.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Then the foundation layers are cut in linen, with wool flannel pad-stitched in to support the garment.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSTXxFBpXgAEi4XByQQz-dbUB9KuLG4AxO1gvCE2yVcQMzmp31_auES8ieSTF2J-d0u9vEDB3_0x7vMbM1aQbr5KMylSd7WhgwRN-zxNlc5ifiVZuUaZhCkxwsSXM28ArT8s_Mb2OR3hZVoR6_WX3BzrFMOCmV20nCFjDUIuUlJsg9POAxZ1E5zHxM/s2828/DEA4E7F6-6853-46C1-9B5A-63AB732B0155.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2246" data-original-width="2828" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSTXxFBpXgAEi4XByQQz-dbUB9KuLG4AxO1gvCE2yVcQMzmp31_auES8ieSTF2J-d0u9vEDB3_0x7vMbM1aQbr5KMylSd7WhgwRN-zxNlc5ifiVZuUaZhCkxwsSXM28ArT8s_Mb2OR3hZVoR6_WX3BzrFMOCmV20nCFjDUIuUlJsg9POAxZ1E5zHxM/s320/DEA4E7F6-6853-46C1-9B5A-63AB732B0155.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxnGJidjEkOxztvU9nyMIr1Rl30L40c-0nQxsRJyPllbImx22H98Kt9mG3k353-IRZ2VuBQP6hbhuFggwH2HWokvseTphJelVpzZ7JLKMm2Yp5RysLvUPCdEl6epN2HtuuTh0bXAIm8zpjanZu1VWs0BDgMf4wOeo1nLWvSaC-Ppc2COBhZwcq_jK/s2810/441F038A-6548-4D1C-9800-BF6AE9AF2B7B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2468" data-original-width="2810" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxnGJidjEkOxztvU9nyMIr1Rl30L40c-0nQxsRJyPllbImx22H98Kt9mG3k353-IRZ2VuBQP6hbhuFggwH2HWokvseTphJelVpzZ7JLKMm2Yp5RysLvUPCdEl6epN2HtuuTh0bXAIm8zpjanZu1VWs0BDgMf4wOeo1nLWvSaC-Ppc2COBhZwcq_jK/s320/441F038A-6548-4D1C-9800-BF6AE9AF2B7B.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Then, jumping <i>waaaaaaay</i> ahead...the foundation is basted the the outer layers, the side seams are joined and a linen lining sewn in.</div><div>(I promise things are more clearly illustrated in my older posts!)</div><div><br /></div><div>Next, it's time to decide how to apply the trim.</div><div>I have two options: To trim the body and the skirt separately, or to run a single line of trim all the way around the doublet.</div><div>I opt for the later for aesthetic reasons, even though it's probably way more complicated than need be.</div><div><br /></div><div>So with that, the 'skirts' are attached, the trim is sewn on and the doublet is done!</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5y-q-G_9V2rlQSpn3eu6vnnlLG7a7VBGzxY_bj21XerHKEhH4Q4OPgO_9ORkgOGBkQIR4hnbosBjiakhm48iO-enorV-RMZeMBVFTRub-1JjflOlN_iKjlLOdZN9bqpNuyV5m0ZSUEXVm0dHBq2XLaXtSBdpF4TsN7Lz4L-ihilOAqDpDEYWvmMRw/s3194/204426A7-BB95-40B9-9ED9-47F045C9C0D6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3194" data-original-width="2728" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5y-q-G_9V2rlQSpn3eu6vnnlLG7a7VBGzxY_bj21XerHKEhH4Q4OPgO_9ORkgOGBkQIR4hnbosBjiakhm48iO-enorV-RMZeMBVFTRub-1JjflOlN_iKjlLOdZN9bqpNuyV5m0ZSUEXVm0dHBq2XLaXtSBdpF4TsN7Lz4L-ihilOAqDpDEYWvmMRw/s320/204426A7-BB95-40B9-9ED9-47F045C9C0D6.jpeg" width="273" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Well, nearly...</div><div>I still have add closures in the form of hooks and eyes.</div><div><br /></div><div>But I've run out of time! </div><div><br /></div><div>If I want to wear the outfit to Faire I'll have to wear it open....which is what I do.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2I3xM_SsfbVXyTTWxivW3n44PezNCWajXRZE4Wd5fhCUlVq__7s6WpQVscT3V4HvYsVcdpUy84kGYWjdusRBIoj35dklZtmvvDD4kCxoihg8RXPnnAJNKGt0iCW_6b62JcrhGb745P0b98LVubTOzHn6aJXccUxTeJQhLE6cy06f62zs91qzith9f/s2866/7550868F-ADC1-4DAB-A229-5712BED58CA0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2866" data-original-width="1750" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2I3xM_SsfbVXyTTWxivW3n44PezNCWajXRZE4Wd5fhCUlVq__7s6WpQVscT3V4HvYsVcdpUy84kGYWjdusRBIoj35dklZtmvvDD4kCxoihg8RXPnnAJNKGt0iCW_6b62JcrhGb745P0b98LVubTOzHn6aJXccUxTeJQhLE6cy06f62zs91qzith9f/w390-h640/7550868F-ADC1-4DAB-A229-5712BED58CA0.jpeg" width="390" /></a><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And I think it looks rather jaunty!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I didn't end up taking many photos until we back in the parking lot getting ready to leave. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The lighting was just too good not to take advantage of and (surprisingly) my phone did a pretty great job at capturing the insanely glow-y sunset colours.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitScIj_9qpCdwyJD9akC71u446cfivE-nA2dsPZbqEo-MqFksp-_HA647L46ZD24qYIfb818uPjEYVmpTWo7d8mNCS2QFEyZe6XQ4fkDcJL2Gd7tnfCsVBldBWcFDcwLQGHdazp2i1wogc-lYr26219TXSUc8HwAOHa63KriscBZegQmrO-9saxKlV/s4032/pink_06%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitScIj_9qpCdwyJD9akC71u446cfivE-nA2dsPZbqEo-MqFksp-_HA647L46ZD24qYIfb818uPjEYVmpTWo7d8mNCS2QFEyZe6XQ4fkDcJL2Gd7tnfCsVBldBWcFDcwLQGHdazp2i1wogc-lYr26219TXSUc8HwAOHa63KriscBZegQmrO-9saxKlV/s320/pink_06%20copy.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNyWf1jziS8kGQ_JG4yRcyn7KWJXkBnDwF2hsOn2cMhGHkyh_xbLHf2tmCE_4QcF9El7mlL7D7l2blkx7waoYPGUES2CZoXJ-Lh_Tw7LmmNVVfwvtRNRRuN6MvS9hEqT_1kC5C9Qaw2HpdHEso3zH2ArKnXNgBasZcB5Od2QlyL7j1GcO4pOlYVNU4/s4032/pink_04%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNyWf1jziS8kGQ_JG4yRcyn7KWJXkBnDwF2hsOn2cMhGHkyh_xbLHf2tmCE_4QcF9El7mlL7D7l2blkx7waoYPGUES2CZoXJ-Lh_Tw7LmmNVVfwvtRNRRuN6MvS9hEqT_1kC5C9Qaw2HpdHEso3zH2ArKnXNgBasZcB5Od2QlyL7j1GcO4pOlYVNU4/s320/pink_04%20copy.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4ub1qtRg9WCnWU_wx8LYYahmRjkWed8ds0KFK2HWte4Eqntt0bIMoiFTA9bnYrkxNf9axUDU5sraX3JRC1XfNMVqF4sYEabxTcZr4XK_5zcamuK9942VasDhTGlPLTpInTFUia9gdJks1ix9MXtt4xrA1YY7c2IJGEx1GQ5hGTXTmijD8AnM3IKV/s3834/pink_01%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3834" data-original-width="2843" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4ub1qtRg9WCnWU_wx8LYYahmRjkWed8ds0KFK2HWte4Eqntt0bIMoiFTA9bnYrkxNf9axUDU5sraX3JRC1XfNMVqF4sYEabxTcZr4XK_5zcamuK9942VasDhTGlPLTpInTFUia9gdJks1ix9MXtt4xrA1YY7c2IJGEx1GQ5hGTXTmijD8AnM3IKV/s320/pink_01%20copy.jpg" width="237" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqtAxbWlbuWAteMTu9epa8kKaAGfqpPg9FotMklKsgg3VqXoA5-AMpJDC4SZkTULOuMdXZnDx2SWK2QMweAKf5X72Dt0R8HzAZc_Wp-Hm0YfIvIbMcw1mlp1b6hdq5gTv99s1YLqYI33xO-JXl89OJ1WrmXqy-PWOT2A21Hzm7pN5B44kOwz6cSTz/s3704/pink_02%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3704" data-original-width="2518" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqtAxbWlbuWAteMTu9epa8kKaAGfqpPg9FotMklKsgg3VqXoA5-AMpJDC4SZkTULOuMdXZnDx2SWK2QMweAKf5X72Dt0R8HzAZc_Wp-Hm0YfIvIbMcw1mlp1b6hdq5gTv99s1YLqYI33xO-JXl89OJ1WrmXqy-PWOT2A21Hzm7pN5B44kOwz6cSTz/s320/pink_02%20copy.jpg" width="218" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbUNUl_J3dhtpWjJj3ftPh_QlkOPqbaC7akVTzNMkOqveR_8rD_czAj1M_kpnyBd9_plq7KLrq0Dq-VmSKn973hml_R0hSoWpsAj46PYh93zUxzvUSn_Nu-JND3zxtbbA7763FwsDhr99oIb8bQ736t0KHsoGrgMKncrTfBmJQyTdy25uwgeAUy7Qb/s4032/pink_05%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbUNUl_J3dhtpWjJj3ftPh_QlkOPqbaC7akVTzNMkOqveR_8rD_czAj1M_kpnyBd9_plq7KLrq0Dq-VmSKn973hml_R0hSoWpsAj46PYh93zUxzvUSn_Nu-JND3zxtbbA7763FwsDhr99oIb8bQ736t0KHsoGrgMKncrTfBmJQyTdy25uwgeAUy7Qb/s320/pink_05%20copy.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I mean, yes, the outfit is fun...but it's really all about the light!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijpkpl-LHyB4j_CQgZAFGESvJtU-0Ez0xMO180yXF0ZVu-zLYF-ftDgddbji9PFpaCLkHxzcz2mecSUNugEELgGj8eVD-OqDnYaOnuVwsh2nvQa0lRAv3_CjC6gYWQSYk980t9YZtFy7QJbAw2R4HPu4EdJ9Tfq_uF2xI1JC5Ah5DL_go2iC6BGeM0/s4012/pink_07%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4012" data-original-width="2183" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijpkpl-LHyB4j_CQgZAFGESvJtU-0Ez0xMO180yXF0ZVu-zLYF-ftDgddbji9PFpaCLkHxzcz2mecSUNugEELgGj8eVD-OqDnYaOnuVwsh2nvQa0lRAv3_CjC6gYWQSYk980t9YZtFy7QJbAw2R4HPu4EdJ9Tfq_uF2xI1JC5Ah5DL_go2iC6BGeM0/s320/pink_07%20copy.jpg" width="174" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrMLMXukrAQo2gYb2JFlxPux1uEVRvlkbFaLd9O78VYP2q_7ThSsOPvp_ma1g0q2Ud63uzQO1CPZ-DzQsZEafTPWTuzIAPiPShu-Yh6hL7JgrD8HP1jkVWSxbQXrC8eAU705I07rwczg7_fuZSzTVKeeSKZ8ilG7xmjCynSox-RKIRL-giR9_RYrV3/s4032/pink_08%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrMLMXukrAQo2gYb2JFlxPux1uEVRvlkbFaLd9O78VYP2q_7ThSsOPvp_ma1g0q2Ud63uzQO1CPZ-DzQsZEafTPWTuzIAPiPShu-Yh6hL7JgrD8HP1jkVWSxbQXrC8eAU705I07rwczg7_fuZSzTVKeeSKZ8ilG7xmjCynSox-RKIRL-giR9_RYrV3/s320/pink_08%20copy.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And the grass and background actually mimic the original watercolour quite well.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdN82iHvgFn88xLVJSmkdK3PmMeu1sPXVzIz5uIf3gDwJx7vFipQMuX7xDDyAVX4LsvF-FC83ezjySE5zGPlDxvwNZ9Tb9R7cL0ccRVvLNZqhPw729p-im97HvqB23k567h_0Et2gDiVaTBo_Kw4KwkbIzfRhr-xc7Zv7iuCQybYCVgdDsSAmHNo0r2LU/s1276/camp-compare%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1276" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdN82iHvgFn88xLVJSmkdK3PmMeu1sPXVzIz5uIf3gDwJx7vFipQMuX7xDDyAVX4LsvF-FC83ezjySE5zGPlDxvwNZ9Tb9R7cL0ccRVvLNZqhPw729p-im97HvqB23k567h_0Et2gDiVaTBo_Kw4KwkbIzfRhr-xc7Zv7iuCQybYCVgdDsSAmHNo0r2LU/w400-h319/camp-compare%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">As you can see, by this point I'd clearly already finished most of the outfit and accessories, which now includes:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A pair of new linen bodies that I finished back in early 2022 (using the same pattern as my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/02/black-linen-pair-o-bodies.html">black bodies</a>, but cut lower in the bust and with a curved edge going into the shoulder strap, rather than a right angle).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiud_d2SbA1Z-LaIpyLzMypMXmDSBIsOLsQHVUIIjHmBHGkDqEoYnXRfe9M2XRZS4PaKLP0LgiFwbfZzWLHMX6td_P3ECuA0H9sRcFn7phQg_ll8sq83DbNWbH3Wg8ZV1k6gZpvqZW1WPzWZOzWSYFJhUEyamnPif43fiHtm9DES2xHrzBSE-qhEuTG/s1457/B18C8756-14B5-4417-BCAE-BC183FE9C354.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1423" data-original-width="1457" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiud_d2SbA1Z-LaIpyLzMypMXmDSBIsOLsQHVUIIjHmBHGkDqEoYnXRfe9M2XRZS4PaKLP0LgiFwbfZzWLHMX6td_P3ECuA0H9sRcFn7phQg_ll8sq83DbNWbH3Wg8ZV1k6gZpvqZW1WPzWZOzWSYFJhUEyamnPif43fiHtm9DES2xHrzBSE-qhEuTG/s320/B18C8756-14B5-4417-BCAE-BC183FE9C354.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif5zNesUDm3RuXdH-12d7LU9hUFA-sZoehPSgfpISgYNwOvW7bdzIGtGFmLUoY_EbEh8bB6foZGMzwACeSahWRFKbQlycbF1gG_QmJqjuCGwBos4nFnkMXn6NVEd6npi_TU9JhAXGmSHCMp2cmDGcpRXV0WUAnQATkBu4-IOxHUQjGFiKFUPk3XEUp/s1714/27BBF14D-34C8-4FD1-A129-006D1A9E2152.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1383" data-original-width="1714" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif5zNesUDm3RuXdH-12d7LU9hUFA-sZoehPSgfpISgYNwOvW7bdzIGtGFmLUoY_EbEh8bB6foZGMzwACeSahWRFKbQlycbF1gG_QmJqjuCGwBos4nFnkMXn6NVEd6npi_TU9JhAXGmSHCMp2cmDGcpRXV0WUAnQATkBu4-IOxHUQjGFiKFUPk3XEUp/s320/27BBF14D-34C8-4FD1-A129-006D1A9E2152.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div><br /></div><div>A high-necked linen smock, with ruffles at the neck and cuffs. </div><div>(<i>Note:</i> The watercolour appears to have a figure 8 ruffs and cuffs, but I didn't have the small wrist ruffs completed yet, so I used my old smock)</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT2ojQgpS-xiqCtImgfxSsxjdr9kPGzQhyphenhyphenFECAdIhDZ5eBNKx-6UM496958K5W7HHaZxcmJftK69-qXkkHHk_9_1e7CneloT0-O0b_QKpMcT2D6RS4EtqUCYfRKMiX6CAe3Us1cKyF5ft-V9HDZwtz0SCX0-oH_TsvUcI2grsPYfZ7H8B1FG23mav7cxM/s3873/IMG_2936.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2643" data-original-width="3873" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT2ojQgpS-xiqCtImgfxSsxjdr9kPGzQhyphenhyphenFECAdIhDZ5eBNKx-6UM496958K5W7HHaZxcmJftK69-qXkkHHk_9_1e7CneloT0-O0b_QKpMcT2D6RS4EtqUCYfRKMiX6CAe3Us1cKyF5ft-V9HDZwtz0SCX0-oH_TsvUcI2grsPYfZ7H8B1FG23mav7cxM/s320/IMG_2936.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A pink petticoat with green linen guards. Like most of my other petticoats it's made of two pieces of 60" fabric, joined along the selvaged edges (bringing the total circumference to just under 120") and cartridge pleated to a waistband. There are 3 bands of 1.5" green linen trim.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The only real differnce is that this time it closes with ties and eyelets rather than hooks and eyes. Not sure that I like that method better, but there you are...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU87ozBlSTM2rNecl1jKw7NU3qdqb3JnOzStf80YaP-mT_sNQKX95Vb_UQ11L1HwMPVm5FehU4qHXM0yHWniBHyw1GSixEmGjCziClSeDtXJBfM1fNs3rLHuUqMve6lVoFjhkL1HBLmc_VnSFvgYVs9qDFZhgj2NgqNEuRzKIYBmA3kAYsRhpz51Vrfy0/s3023/7FBBCF25-961C-4CD4-A449-5EEEA75EEB61.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2732" data-original-width="3023" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU87ozBlSTM2rNecl1jKw7NU3qdqb3JnOzStf80YaP-mT_sNQKX95Vb_UQ11L1HwMPVm5FehU4qHXM0yHWniBHyw1GSixEmGjCziClSeDtXJBfM1fNs3rLHuUqMve6lVoFjhkL1HBLmc_VnSFvgYVs9qDFZhgj2NgqNEuRzKIYBmA3kAYsRhpz51Vrfy0/s320/7FBBCF25-961C-4CD4-A449-5EEEA75EEB61.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBSGsENOUuWiMfsWjJluBb1X1r4v-XBzePKfw_W0d7ZY0eyVKS630c_BQqilqAssuiNwEWtEipFj6hJDe6l3hpI3rBrCFMGC-7JpgU9Kx2ocZp7IrBIlbofP39wbOfoFS8-H2CUZMYSp0jv37n9GVfiswD8Ji0hkyN_OUOmen44te523amRVRNvW_8Cpg/s2438/IMG_2958.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1463" data-original-width="2438" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBSGsENOUuWiMfsWjJluBb1X1r4v-XBzePKfw_W0d7ZY0eyVKS630c_BQqilqAssuiNwEWtEipFj6hJDe6l3hpI3rBrCFMGC-7JpgU9Kx2ocZp7IrBIlbofP39wbOfoFS8-H2CUZMYSp0jv37n9GVfiswD8Ji0hkyN_OUOmen44te523amRVRNvW_8Cpg/s320/IMG_2958.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiet86loNNtmPPoFZ1PHyTQ27KN_HM80VERdY-r3G4FcUn6Y8BZbZw1u-IQ5iOVG868WHXhT-GrJAeeKWNWXAs7kZFg7YpqCOyZNgaBxjb795rIgCjazi2kYXAT9WXmkHubCePTAD1QPhi09OYYCnzbMMSE7U6Sa_uwK4NOxhH-i9ScwdAgzPiXivC9EI/s4032/IMG_2962.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiet86loNNtmPPoFZ1PHyTQ27KN_HM80VERdY-r3G4FcUn6Y8BZbZw1u-IQ5iOVG868WHXhT-GrJAeeKWNWXAs7kZFg7YpqCOyZNgaBxjb795rIgCjazi2kYXAT9WXmkHubCePTAD1QPhi09OYYCnzbMMSE7U6Sa_uwK4NOxhH-i9ScwdAgzPiXivC9EI/s320/IMG_2962.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsRRJfQOkS_TPTPsOu0f5yAKbNl9WnOsBfE0eU_Yy8_pA8qJioBkuQZbAnMMLmfxw46bQgOHuly50iH_guJZljf9q4zMhOqVzQtFYDQA3jJBDiMxgfV0qNnKWMo6Z6nkanBTSulNiRo7ujEj0pByFcOSy3MwXeBlwmCpHyKiABddiiZh2j7RQtQWy_1Iw/s2245/IMG_2967.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1974" data-original-width="2245" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsRRJfQOkS_TPTPsOu0f5yAKbNl9WnOsBfE0eU_Yy8_pA8qJioBkuQZbAnMMLmfxw46bQgOHuly50iH_guJZljf9q4zMhOqVzQtFYDQA3jJBDiMxgfV0qNnKWMo6Z6nkanBTSulNiRo7ujEj0pByFcOSy3MwXeBlwmCpHyKiABddiiZh2j7RQtQWy_1Iw/s320/IMG_2967.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Next, a white gathered apron. It's basically a white linen rectangle, aprox 38x26", gathered down to 8" at the waist.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-UY9VjLbugq1q7idk4hiMU8-RwNrh2NXhuYhWawRfbKz55JUbfJxu2j9zggVahbzQG_dQiIQwJoHv1ytlPsCTWauFBWISDFfr7U1ycQGFw2S5AIaKhZgyVKCmcUaSkNzGk0h-rCIzVO9kxF9IujHL2S9yOZhEYBZ0QlHQKYj-XiaaeQ6ZWZBTB9zO37U/s3411/IMG_2943.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3411" data-original-width="2316" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-UY9VjLbugq1q7idk4hiMU8-RwNrh2NXhuYhWawRfbKz55JUbfJxu2j9zggVahbzQG_dQiIQwJoHv1ytlPsCTWauFBWISDFfr7U1ycQGFw2S5AIaKhZgyVKCmcUaSkNzGk0h-rCIzVO9kxF9IujHL2S9yOZhEYBZ0QlHQKYj-XiaaeQ6ZWZBTB9zO37U/w271-h400/IMG_2943.jpeg" width="271" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXAwiNMJluvplXYvk8BVY_0PKvuU3CR9sRlTSjkfKighaIiMkbmU24WjKxZ1OsaTzmG4WVxJMS9ar5tJS73wKcEk7DVGNznBPOGjjdWUEdwdVQkgieJvMr8ni29vizwHbFqpi81Ca6KcJ5DDeWoydi0xivBJX7Tt7qBdtsiVFMrmYK1UgFzzqTRWt-IE/s3193/IMG_2953.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2421" data-original-width="3193" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXAwiNMJluvplXYvk8BVY_0PKvuU3CR9sRlTSjkfKighaIiMkbmU24WjKxZ1OsaTzmG4WVxJMS9ar5tJS73wKcEk7DVGNznBPOGjjdWUEdwdVQkgieJvMr8ni29vizwHbFqpi81Ca6KcJ5DDeWoydi0xivBJX7Tt7qBdtsiVFMrmYK1UgFzzqTRWt-IE/s320/IMG_2953.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A white coif with narrow lace....</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjYRYl52zois-unqUeuo1oPKgUOm1DOlQ1qnrq-c0dFBmyY_h7GetRS9bdN4ZE466wWOteBArJItNNwAEM2svMEuM8stHK_CO3RU1bo41N0v10V6ZAy9buqsqrq2f9ndFzG6u71LZuXtSB2_S9mPtPoAeZ8P928EMIVrS8iLw1FhQsYcQttHkvqAN2XtU/s2935/B79A53A7-F013-4267-817C-FA22F6D62466.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2919" data-original-width="2935" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjYRYl52zois-unqUeuo1oPKgUOm1DOlQ1qnrq-c0dFBmyY_h7GetRS9bdN4ZE466wWOteBArJItNNwAEM2svMEuM8stHK_CO3RU1bo41N0v10V6ZAy9buqsqrq2f9ndFzG6u71LZuXtSB2_S9mPtPoAeZ8P928EMIVrS8iLw1FhQsYcQttHkvqAN2XtU/s320/B79A53A7-F013-4267-817C-FA22F6D62466.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">...over which is worn a vintage Austrian hat, trimmed with several antique black millinery feathers. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp89T9-KWgA7_SfSAIquF6MSNHJMjp0qs-R6Hp7lI8FA8PQEA5B7eDDFjqI6r-HVSO_A2XTBsEDNXGIFaWAdOHnP__MUeyy2dte2fd7vPj6QIKMOIwZGlJrV3P-takv9NPHNlXjGUWtKpVB0M5WA6UCpbslC6bUVLBfx4_AThRnbBqQZMHJWCYjwnO44k/s3478/IMG_3009.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3478" data-original-width="2369" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp89T9-KWgA7_SfSAIquF6MSNHJMjp0qs-R6Hp7lI8FA8PQEA5B7eDDFjqI6r-HVSO_A2XTBsEDNXGIFaWAdOHnP__MUeyy2dte2fd7vPj6QIKMOIwZGlJrV3P-takv9NPHNlXjGUWtKpVB0M5WA6UCpbslC6bUVLBfx4_AThRnbBqQZMHJWCYjwnO44k/s320/IMG_3009.jpeg" width="218" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuxiPcbQFIENx98YcIe9uLJwnji4tfADkXJs17BJ9WR6aW7yrvliyWuIss9XsCkM9IT2O5mlGIqLMoW8NaEqHWPOQ6gKUq2xrxQHrmr3v17A5MV6V7SNP6QR4kukYujppTavfrOK4q9xNJ9_3t3HKPsS_X3tb1lVCvcDEkzg5JSmQvyi2SeoBjqRcpupI/s3559/F5B74C28-85EE-488C-AD9E-60A190E705A8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3559" data-original-width="2218" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuxiPcbQFIENx98YcIe9uLJwnji4tfADkXJs17BJ9WR6aW7yrvliyWuIss9XsCkM9IT2O5mlGIqLMoW8NaEqHWPOQ6gKUq2xrxQHrmr3v17A5MV6V7SNP6QR4kukYujppTavfrOK4q9xNJ9_3t3HKPsS_X3tb1lVCvcDEkzg5JSmQvyi2SeoBjqRcpupI/s320/F5B74C28-85EE-488C-AD9E-60A190E705A8.jpeg" width="199" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAl9AKwcvGmUHIt6_KgLnIwvoul5PspmMeRbXSvQvHQiLnQ3Lux_BK5Fufly9wHPt5VVd9ixGACcs2VgI5CCj4wlrEsXPFHSie1SJtc_2H3Gat5Cb3GG27fQAc7Epim8OgA2TEB9yIdXMIkVyF0HJJ7NUPgmltuwUS25fKsysywAwL0mr5yiIofbyJYZ0/s3851/A3E7C4A6-8539-4A14-967F-DF65D1841C5A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3851" data-original-width="2671" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAl9AKwcvGmUHIt6_KgLnIwvoul5PspmMeRbXSvQvHQiLnQ3Lux_BK5Fufly9wHPt5VVd9ixGACcs2VgI5CCj4wlrEsXPFHSie1SJtc_2H3Gat5Cb3GG27fQAc7Epim8OgA2TEB9yIdXMIkVyF0HJJ7NUPgmltuwUS25fKsysywAwL0mr5yiIofbyJYZ0/s320/A3E7C4A6-8539-4A14-967F-DF65D1841C5A.jpeg" width="222" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9V5GBuyJNjGk7X4OC2dbucPHByXrcA4MQSpJBxg3P0CW0yNY78o7iGFdgn4dZqgFMyVqUSmJ5LLzPTY9mOA2ovYeO3ynQZ-hqg4zW0jZUYceYRLLYFi8AoXGy0ykrOe4zt1gqtJVVPSWEz92ywSP8g5tfdIJtNFxZmx0qHEDGynMUsFH6iZUPuSAMJk8/s3857/IMG_3011.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3857" data-original-width="2526" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9V5GBuyJNjGk7X4OC2dbucPHByXrcA4MQSpJBxg3P0CW0yNY78o7iGFdgn4dZqgFMyVqUSmJ5LLzPTY9mOA2ovYeO3ynQZ-hqg4zW0jZUYceYRLLYFi8AoXGy0ykrOe4zt1gqtJVVPSWEz92ywSP8g5tfdIJtNFxZmx0qHEDGynMUsFH6iZUPuSAMJk8/s320/IMG_3011.jpeg" width="210" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhejlxvxLJMA2xjheiVXFeIGMY5vfY8tDC8exjpODhV7dBMlf7W13JhCs0ZTQOLQyJbonnwQ7kuPC0JwIun6pf-gLvCZalpqL0W0tD3xR7R07LrJHyb7TZuQiDTinxVBSQtWBGSfojg2Raw_yPRMKvZ_ODrcOahFLHRT3roN0jBtaRDeqT-OcGFwAC1Vhg/s794/IMG_2783.webp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="794" data-original-width="794" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhejlxvxLJMA2xjheiVXFeIGMY5vfY8tDC8exjpODhV7dBMlf7W13JhCs0ZTQOLQyJbonnwQ7kuPC0JwIun6pf-gLvCZalpqL0W0tD3xR7R07LrJHyb7TZuQiDTinxVBSQtWBGSfojg2Raw_yPRMKvZ_ODrcOahFLHRT3roN0jBtaRDeqT-OcGFwAC1Vhg/s320/IMG_2783.webp" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9OEvzNIvx-gImUMr_NkZn5YOH5sxZ-NYDhF8q7F17saXwf8GyeI625tJehSkv2rKcTIKBRRHdPE0d6LxTFBwVnMBmG-blA-rgXl2403C_azxza6TvGn5NeoL2iMos4hLDxme_Ow83XGIItLlf8wL56I96xw7XcgbZcqEzuaKGeUdca8GTemDfL4HjHNU/s794/IMG_2784.webp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="794" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9OEvzNIvx-gImUMr_NkZn5YOH5sxZ-NYDhF8q7F17saXwf8GyeI625tJehSkv2rKcTIKBRRHdPE0d6LxTFBwVnMBmG-blA-rgXl2403C_azxza6TvGn5NeoL2iMos4hLDxme_Ow83XGIItLlf8wL56I96xw7XcgbZcqEzuaKGeUdca8GTemDfL4HjHNU/s320/IMG_2784.webp" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I'm very pleased with how the hat turned out. The old wool cap was battered and dented in just the right way to match the inspiration image and I was so pleased to find some lovely wispy feathers as well.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">However, the shape and curves of the hat dictated the placement of the feathers, which in turn is what let to the whole outfit being constructed as a mirror image to the original (usually I'm pretty finicky about trying to make as close to a direct one-to-one as possible, but what can you do?).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Moving on...next is a 3/4" black leather belt to bustle the skirt up.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9PGtM4pUpy6OdZTtw-A84pHYAbEz-DS2yJykYqVv53buIykM9haupQAHscWkdvhiG8bfp25u0xxcDvzk726AwglhM0t0SGMjGXH8zaGdy18PkX1KpmUaZ8EpHaltS1IuZt4Q9oYw-LiEDcpPJPdVplZDxFR4yqNx4MBID2-44wBmDh0cimEM-ccBhTcE/s3906/IMG_2895.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2629" data-original-width="3906" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9PGtM4pUpy6OdZTtw-A84pHYAbEz-DS2yJykYqVv53buIykM9haupQAHscWkdvhiG8bfp25u0xxcDvzk726AwglhM0t0SGMjGXH8zaGdy18PkX1KpmUaZ8EpHaltS1IuZt4Q9oYw-LiEDcpPJPdVplZDxFR4yqNx4MBID2-44wBmDh0cimEM-ccBhTcE/s320/IMG_2895.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Hanging from the belt a knife in a black leather sheath and a small leather purse.</div><div style="text-align: left;">(Though the knife is left out of the sheath for Faire, obviously)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyrQsK_xRAGyPdj7_k4-HHyPCK0dmfUVz1Gjlhi5X4p9aG3pA_WepLv15Mb1dT6y1Jc4HquKG9VS_rvqMKexZJdsk3aeiQZcMEk_Yw2au01jltvxlQs7OtUbjPtNqlOQD_ZLj2TrXJfxeziJWEjc3LKhcWlPaeubihLFZVZMAZ4kxtVTyfy7agkzC3bzg/s3196/IMG_2911.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1392" data-original-width="3196" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyrQsK_xRAGyPdj7_k4-HHyPCK0dmfUVz1Gjlhi5X4p9aG3pA_WepLv15Mb1dT6y1Jc4HquKG9VS_rvqMKexZJdsk3aeiQZcMEk_Yw2au01jltvxlQs7OtUbjPtNqlOQD_ZLj2TrXJfxeziJWEjc3LKhcWlPaeubihLFZVZMAZ4kxtVTyfy7agkzC3bzg/s320/IMG_2911.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYdgTdHURKK907W9i51ZFg1XzGn7rjhJTs_GgIr_4q8rzVOupXkq9pqCzOFwLzsgf2gu2mWpHkHWxL7GCcqZXQGCKLcTc6GgtOX71snt845BTusVu_wqgIZlBYYcPdo1PDX-uUVka_IpNDqSqS_lA1k0yywce6sKDDWjTN1WE_N54B2j9Yaoxooednaaw/s2593/IMG_2899.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2309" data-original-width="2593" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYdgTdHURKK907W9i51ZFg1XzGn7rjhJTs_GgIr_4q8rzVOupXkq9pqCzOFwLzsgf2gu2mWpHkHWxL7GCcqZXQGCKLcTc6GgtOX71snt845BTusVu_wqgIZlBYYcPdo1PDX-uUVka_IpNDqSqS_lA1k0yywce6sKDDWjTN1WE_N54B2j9Yaoxooednaaw/s320/IMG_2899.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeCH6ImqE4R23sDbhyphenhyphengsVfOABOVLjp1h1qx15tpM1ZduT1-DScAfeI3kxpPH-e1I5_3Q5UN16ZjVm6vGbUYaf0zrym-DrI9GUyNMalhPbAVIbb-U9jJ8ZQc3t5D5R7rF8sqRLAvYl7GwKgDlclZbD5JReGjX8rE1PPtyAm_qAJnELZyZA-CdTa9e3PdJY/s3648/IMG_2903.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="1935" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeCH6ImqE4R23sDbhyphenhyphengsVfOABOVLjp1h1qx15tpM1ZduT1-DScAfeI3kxpPH-e1I5_3Q5UN16ZjVm6vGbUYaf0zrym-DrI9GUyNMalhPbAVIbb-U9jJ8ZQc3t5D5R7rF8sqRLAvYl7GwKgDlclZbD5JReGjX8rE1PPtyAm_qAJnELZyZA-CdTa9e3PdJY/w213-h400/IMG_2903.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">That's it for my Faire outing, but a few more accessories are needed to complete the look before the final photoshoot.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Jumping forward 2 years, the newly completed/assembled pieces include:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">My small ruff.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYjY5lJegVQUVsFzIX9MRdrFFI3TJy9sGvVY62QYYtzezm-lRwrPhhAHFutR2SueJc1xvz7D0Q6r9oxe0Ad_pkGWYf_6H4L-DAK9icGbP8h10-IJe7fVGxdLpseCsX2DJ2saYxQtFPm_7SBe_ZYA2Mv8u-hQAi8kvk6ZSuErZpmBRmQh_JclACfSDEbM/s2048/Brown_74.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1613" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYjY5lJegVQUVsFzIX9MRdrFFI3TJy9sGvVY62QYYtzezm-lRwrPhhAHFutR2SueJc1xvz7D0Q6r9oxe0Ad_pkGWYf_6H4L-DAK9icGbP8h10-IJe7fVGxdLpseCsX2DJ2saYxQtFPm_7SBe_ZYA2Mv8u-hQAi8kvk6ZSuErZpmBRmQh_JclACfSDEbM/s320/Brown_74.jpg" width="252" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwgd1Fe5ese8OY2VSTCcL_9zQq6t0_o7iu6H69fG1w22Mow7eB8ITL56CHwJxuKoZ680nv5A9UR0VCBik3PTp9G_lmz4iJStdb0eE-aln3C7GF4Rodoj3elaUrKpthpK0t7nzLXATneT7oTpJTV7XTvz6eVCzTqGXll_vIDJXSMoryKS01AKhK5vixMQ0/s2048/Brown_73.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwgd1Fe5ese8OY2VSTCcL_9zQq6t0_o7iu6H69fG1w22Mow7eB8ITL56CHwJxuKoZ680nv5A9UR0VCBik3PTp9G_lmz4iJStdb0eE-aln3C7GF4Rodoj3elaUrKpthpK0t7nzLXATneT7oTpJTV7XTvz6eVCzTqGXll_vIDJXSMoryKS01AKhK5vixMQ0/s320/Brown_73.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A new set of small, narrowly set wrist ruffs.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOqE9_-qUcALDvZuPsu26YuP68r1327C2e1N369cVUqU2PTQlqK0DiOSQ5AS0T7ZOBKcyqeqwggb_36bXHihhq_pUmNJL7MvC5bqzywUMt4K3p1EX2VVvhiWfKOmvOS6zKIMvc9FG1LgHtEOh-NS91g-DgEVZwVvl8UhJsjRvY7ZkGvrKHD8NkJ7zLJ_Q/s2158/IMG_2987.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1653" data-original-width="2158" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOqE9_-qUcALDvZuPsu26YuP68r1327C2e1N369cVUqU2PTQlqK0DiOSQ5AS0T7ZOBKcyqeqwggb_36bXHihhq_pUmNJL7MvC5bqzywUMt4K3p1EX2VVvhiWfKOmvOS6zKIMvc9FG1LgHtEOh-NS91g-DgEVZwVvl8UhJsjRvY7ZkGvrKHD8NkJ7zLJ_Q/s320/IMG_2987.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBhyz9mX10802oV3bvPCMJnB_daZ_n6ejnVzroWFVYkfCqEEVA8cgGbzQcVwn8YVU9xZsSiLr5jR9OhMQyutGpUDsHcX9CGxw82diTbh8-nNX-hwp0T-yElU_EJ_w9bkl4IGuyaOihGHnUi8HY1Q-gWca5puihrHFn10NlBHiAiXO6c1vd6DViifEEJNY/s3023/IMG_2994.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2774" data-original-width="3023" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBhyz9mX10802oV3bvPCMJnB_daZ_n6ejnVzroWFVYkfCqEEVA8cgGbzQcVwn8YVU9xZsSiLr5jR9OhMQyutGpUDsHcX9CGxw82diTbh8-nNX-hwp0T-yElU_EJ_w9bkl4IGuyaOihGHnUi8HY1Q-gWca5puihrHFn10NlBHiAiXO6c1vd6DViifEEJNY/s320/IMG_2994.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">(which means the ruffled smock is switched out for my collarless smock)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-9d1JMV8nxa0-d-YKPHLWK28htBge1i5c2e9CJYzerLSgWMkqFgUSYej4z-8A0zcSmfWz9bEyurZOrbmPiJMo7EbKR8-a4rc_A2-v-GvRxsW8mD5S289i-AoZPHbwNNHZKhob2kRXo-8lYaMVlvpy85dV0B-ylU1GS4I2sg6qysPDPqu0mJnrYjmax_c/s3885/IMG_3025.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2473" data-original-width="3885" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-9d1JMV8nxa0-d-YKPHLWK28htBge1i5c2e9CJYzerLSgWMkqFgUSYej4z-8A0zcSmfWz9bEyurZOrbmPiJMo7EbKR8-a4rc_A2-v-GvRxsW8mD5S289i-AoZPHbwNNHZKhob2kRXo-8lYaMVlvpy85dV0B-ylU1GS4I2sg6qysPDPqu0mJnrYjmax_c/s320/IMG_3025.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A spear with white tassels</div><div style="text-align: left;">(Redressed from my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer-outfit.html">Kenau outfit</a>).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhapaF_2NGui1uQ_eVJWKE1YHdgdon0HOUa6pzZpm1sZvzAK3DE2Y66zlpo-2DWxLWMX0Ad69Z-7cPGfOG91oUIWasU4UPCQfDnWd9M_ayzN0IRDg5T11t2KRXvLDJtn1WhS1FeeXLi9dRV64DuyifRRv6K0OnFidUiCorjgjJqyngSXQFCDABSfrvP89c/s3937/IMG_2893.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3937" data-original-width="2409" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhapaF_2NGui1uQ_eVJWKE1YHdgdon0HOUa6pzZpm1sZvzAK3DE2Y66zlpo-2DWxLWMX0Ad69Z-7cPGfOG91oUIWasU4UPCQfDnWd9M_ayzN0IRDg5T11t2KRXvLDJtn1WhS1FeeXLi9dRV64DuyifRRv6K0OnFidUiCorjgjJqyngSXQFCDABSfrvP89c/w245-h400/IMG_2893.jpeg" width="245" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A small, antique black brush with white horse hair bristles.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHDQ6wFb8fygEUHC9qiAaRNXvVGt9ewZKBgQPPpFt0nOMwUTZ-1CjaA827vleDoQ9AMH9QfkhAGgqZBLtSj-kPXzZ8GXF7YnFiTCOstc4dy5Eqm5S7bntUKIksA-vJWfhz5x69jbqor7GK34qh6MXC-2U3QaYnJIibJAIIw8LT7Og3n8XPS9QmIl37pXo/s2488/IMG_2919.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2488" data-original-width="2471" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHDQ6wFb8fygEUHC9qiAaRNXvVGt9ewZKBgQPPpFt0nOMwUTZ-1CjaA827vleDoQ9AMH9QfkhAGgqZBLtSj-kPXzZ8GXF7YnFiTCOstc4dy5Eqm5S7bntUKIksA-vJWfhz5x69jbqor7GK34qh6MXC-2U3QaYnJIibJAIIw8LT7Og3n8XPS9QmIl37pXo/s320/IMG_2919.jpeg" width="318" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A roll of black wool to fake a mantlesack. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3DI6oIfWJFufeiAFOmIWhy-U5R9d88GvlFM8CDts9k4eTz5c-6JPa9xhOTJuFiX-mzw-O1ljjg0CwbuCpwB7bb6JyaPuFdA-AvWMJje3JhMC_RnHrAbBL6_edMQdaor3aR-7Bi-ksNhtB-SpcOvhnUC9HeVBVnE0JiIfOPnrDdA-pl34Gfb6CwVAfusw/s3209/IMG_2980.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2479" data-original-width="3209" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3DI6oIfWJFufeiAFOmIWhy-U5R9d88GvlFM8CDts9k4eTz5c-6JPa9xhOTJuFiX-mzw-O1ljjg0CwbuCpwB7bb6JyaPuFdA-AvWMJje3JhMC_RnHrAbBL6_edMQdaor3aR-7Bi-ksNhtB-SpcOvhnUC9HeVBVnE0JiIfOPnrDdA-pl34Gfb6CwVAfusw/s320/IMG_2980.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And lastly, a small felt chicken.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb9ileQizmOuw9kygb-3amYwlta_SMVwQIftUpBbhHue4Ssh3CwvWBy2seJK1TCnB5cfIVrydg8CsiTu9a-FIXAJ0MnrOahA0W3eaeFaNYM3dQnVKH3Gt2zs05L40yD6ZPsTH8rft_-l_4e8W3vm-5UeoOR7f37rcOWi7uyWc1K_wnVI7jxweXfEqB/s3593/4053EE01-43E4-4D11-B960-BCC0CACE84A9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3593" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb9ileQizmOuw9kygb-3amYwlta_SMVwQIftUpBbhHue4Ssh3CwvWBy2seJK1TCnB5cfIVrydg8CsiTu9a-FIXAJ0MnrOahA0W3eaeFaNYM3dQnVKH3Gt2zs05L40yD6ZPsTH8rft_-l_4e8W3vm-5UeoOR7f37rcOWi7uyWc1K_wnVI7jxweXfEqB/s320/4053EE01-43E4-4D11-B960-BCC0CACE84A9.jpeg" width="269" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjquI7MJ3Fq40S9vkXgB5LSTMLL2TThdIkZ-nlhOzRVB0xHapcWcveDuHc9mXKA1I12RX3fWFZPbPKV8VBsC6tAVPLdfOeI_BHgGLgQQMQFYm6OlEs-lcvXqF8ggH_Z6WIE3l2gLTfUX38M9-u1VJpiRZQtw6qkfvMiZ2fkYSDe2FUMxp9rVqWl7eLgWcQ/s3606/IMG_2922.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3606" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjquI7MJ3Fq40S9vkXgB5LSTMLL2TThdIkZ-nlhOzRVB0xHapcWcveDuHc9mXKA1I12RX3fWFZPbPKV8VBsC6tAVPLdfOeI_BHgGLgQQMQFYm6OlEs-lcvXqF8ggH_Z6WIE3l2gLTfUX38M9-u1VJpiRZQtw6qkfvMiZ2fkYSDe2FUMxp9rVqWl7eLgWcQ/s320/IMG_2922.jpeg" width="268" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And I'm not going to lie...the chicken is definitely the <i>BEST</i> part of this whole outfit!</div><div style="text-align: left;">All the credit goes to <a href="https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ArtFeltFibres">ArtFeltFibres</a> on Etsy. I requested a custom Welbar hen (a breed which matched the colouring from the original image) and she completely knocked it out of the park! </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Finally, the closures are added to the doublet (and as usual, I cheat using hook and eye tape)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjXoNfhrb5Z5c4gI9qHDRKVuDqRfVzQUFDLhOfjkuX0VwuvXPZgIjRVPQ7qTQKtlL-U0jJby5fjokH45hJyZRZZYGfQTItFxzJblnBidd_5V5hnnwwlJJfasdyqpw7rTfYdJrdAq704Hl4w_unpUInzHJ5PFGdeG_-wjWp0p4JlZ8-piQ3JoVw-HkL/s3211/2B4A0DE5-BAAD-4B61-9211-E5B0F8EAF426.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3211" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjXoNfhrb5Z5c4gI9qHDRKVuDqRfVzQUFDLhOfjkuX0VwuvXPZgIjRVPQ7qTQKtlL-U0jJby5fjokH45hJyZRZZYGfQTItFxzJblnBidd_5V5hnnwwlJJfasdyqpw7rTfYdJrdAq704Hl4w_unpUInzHJ5PFGdeG_-wjWp0p4JlZ8-piQ3JoVw-HkL/s320/2B4A0DE5-BAAD-4B61-9211-E5B0F8EAF426.jpeg" width="301" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfRUtKwmnSosvuMSNWxZffFjrRp2P0eo7sTEROfiLJydMq4r5-mlFklh-PHzrjwmrsblbEUHm0UGC0Rhf0YT2DKCMRMOguWprlzOPFYgZ6NxC8eZ-p-SEnH9ZEDebK6n7RiejcHZipQRhPzUih__f9-GfkTrA6Pa3MuluPAs12CXWaWEDqAJb8Rbw1/s3749/3D2AF643-44FC-402E-A8FD-1AD59CDE894F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3749" data-original-width="2919" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfRUtKwmnSosvuMSNWxZffFjrRp2P0eo7sTEROfiLJydMq4r5-mlFklh-PHzrjwmrsblbEUHm0UGC0Rhf0YT2DKCMRMOguWprlzOPFYgZ6NxC8eZ-p-SEnH9ZEDebK6n7RiejcHZipQRhPzUih__f9-GfkTrA6Pa3MuluPAs12CXWaWEDqAJb8Rbw1/s320/3D2AF643-44FC-402E-A8FD-1AD59CDE894F.jpeg" width="249" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1CsM4k_yvH16SujfgnJmk1FFdUVActITco7wCPrUvOUuE-AMGEpFbROsEw6qd0HA3hXzymPFkCzZrMaM90pnG-E9EzjOGqmFAIEf51Zt8TIhBKGGucMMDHh6W7w1RRMbAgHQ6Kl97HCRPASbTEn9Q9hz6_oFxRo5si7o188ZCNn6argbQvjCLSEUF8NY/s2852/IMG_2979.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2852" data-original-width="2411" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1CsM4k_yvH16SujfgnJmk1FFdUVActITco7wCPrUvOUuE-AMGEpFbROsEw6qd0HA3hXzymPFkCzZrMaM90pnG-E9EzjOGqmFAIEf51Zt8TIhBKGGucMMDHh6W7w1RRMbAgHQ6Kl97HCRPASbTEn9Q9hz6_oFxRo5si7o188ZCNn6argbQvjCLSEUF8NY/s320/IMG_2979.jpeg" width="271" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgirV_jHWb5rsjdYNDpkn4eAe36E7k9Y6RyR5qSf5mBM4IRYtmP3JJ8alyf1_nEl1J1HY19fc9GCGfyFZhPbjGZ0jNwCmWlT1vZWc-7s7nI4XklXrrk57r7pqltFF-ajCaC8iPDb-E2RImRCYzGPwVGYuampZ0cay4ws9TpmoRcefCpHrVeKKVghwop3po/s3299/IMG_2975.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3299" data-original-width="2799" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgirV_jHWb5rsjdYNDpkn4eAe36E7k9Y6RyR5qSf5mBM4IRYtmP3JJ8alyf1_nEl1J1HY19fc9GCGfyFZhPbjGZ0jNwCmWlT1vZWc-7s7nI4XklXrrk57r7pqltFF-ajCaC8iPDb-E2RImRCYzGPwVGYuampZ0cay4ws9TpmoRcefCpHrVeKKVghwop3po/s320/IMG_2975.jpeg" width="272" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_eED51IDkjgIME1rMmXD0vfmYU2KA-M0gi6Ye0x-NeXp2dghMxQlj8CmocVkxznp0pWTkA-pwv4AWGX67FSqszuSqv2uH-2aaduOwxu1CN4fNf4e2jlQT-N6iB20BLyjXELq7J0qNxeH9_Xf5ENnWdeT5ArGBWz6vmavHy4S-LWJ1nwf68osZxY-lVGQ/s1596/8BEB4784-9929-4593-86C7-576E7CF2552B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1596" data-original-width="1212" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_eED51IDkjgIME1rMmXD0vfmYU2KA-M0gi6Ye0x-NeXp2dghMxQlj8CmocVkxznp0pWTkA-pwv4AWGX67FSqszuSqv2uH-2aaduOwxu1CN4fNf4e2jlQT-N6iB20BLyjXELq7J0qNxeH9_Xf5ENnWdeT5ArGBWz6vmavHy4S-LWJ1nwf68osZxY-lVGQ/s320/8BEB4784-9929-4593-86C7-576E7CF2552B.jpeg" width="243" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(<i>NOTE</i>: this is being worn with my black corset, so you can </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">see the </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span>bust-line is </span><span>much higher and flatter compared to the images below)</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: left;">And that's it!</div><div style="text-align: left;">The ridiculous Ice Cream Sundae outfit is done!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx-NJieBJMKB63MUdMd34SbNWiUKvWfycsTUTmjsTiuKputEDd0blzGH7vKz_8h08vqwgF4mD72kPfC9fDscMMnaxOqzmYCFR6leQNg_VxK_VFI9GCyCB9RiFBmdxRLTgJ7EnI8W93ptfB8zHZ-oaXgM1555vMa4Pd9WHH5CXA3-CJk5VsalU1Wic8N5I/s5894/CF_FINAL_001%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx-NJieBJMKB63MUdMd34SbNWiUKvWfycsTUTmjsTiuKputEDd0blzGH7vKz_8h08vqwgF4mD72kPfC9fDscMMnaxOqzmYCFR6leQNg_VxK_VFI9GCyCB9RiFBmdxRLTgJ7EnI8W93ptfB8zHZ-oaXgM1555vMa4Pd9WHH5CXA3-CJk5VsalU1Wic8N5I/s320/CF_FINAL_001%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJw0LmY01tFOdwRTzj0Mx9MQftF0E32S-igF7tm4hpOa-azppM-vC-6-HonY0VJ85-0w7rA-esSnufYap-hOryitW3_uDltqt9mVuZCosrBANhsmWZrN9cAycfyljuR8XHxe0LEjYoKqzVFMRikXnTSpS7gKn83FLWJgeJx3PCdsyE76YzUFK2j5zeyMQ/s5894/CF_FINAL_002%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJw0LmY01tFOdwRTzj0Mx9MQftF0E32S-igF7tm4hpOa-azppM-vC-6-HonY0VJ85-0w7rA-esSnufYap-hOryitW3_uDltqt9mVuZCosrBANhsmWZrN9cAycfyljuR8XHxe0LEjYoKqzVFMRikXnTSpS7gKn83FLWJgeJx3PCdsyE76YzUFK2j5zeyMQ/s320/CF_FINAL_002%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDg5cOuk-qgSv70oUtZjiaEKUWPePk0Sr6VUt_BihIiL5__szDJgFVGHffHq0aAg3LaeMjAlLc5F0QdIQJ8uAgh8NvjWtSNY8DxZ1rlpc5OFjKlunSZMroayEuLUKC6DQVcmQhObcm1FYlaWNxYN_7OnqZ9981iqSfDTfbmgOOAVRZwYzMJHXK6M62FII/s5894/CF_FINAL_003%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDg5cOuk-qgSv70oUtZjiaEKUWPePk0Sr6VUt_BihIiL5__szDJgFVGHffHq0aAg3LaeMjAlLc5F0QdIQJ8uAgh8NvjWtSNY8DxZ1rlpc5OFjKlunSZMroayEuLUKC6DQVcmQhObcm1FYlaWNxYN_7OnqZ9981iqSfDTfbmgOOAVRZwYzMJHXK6M62FII/s320/CF_FINAL_003%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyFUUmVQtQOTREYFLkAXdvpAdzJ11EQbsJz-kYmnf1J8oRNPgLeUvj3QxKBZHmHKLi-JMLJF8iJvtqZ1K1CWMnneo6pRDqQkpK14az7VmG8heBYdFiqeBu91WV-fuldDSUcCSaumC-9yC_3cQRCj5ZwuSR5MrSE6NBjYUWH5ua9xAx-3Iy9vsdW91z83Y/s5894/CF_FINAL_004%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyFUUmVQtQOTREYFLkAXdvpAdzJ11EQbsJz-kYmnf1J8oRNPgLeUvj3QxKBZHmHKLi-JMLJF8iJvtqZ1K1CWMnneo6pRDqQkpK14az7VmG8heBYdFiqeBu91WV-fuldDSUcCSaumC-9yC_3cQRCj5ZwuSR5MrSE6NBjYUWH5ua9xAx-3Iy9vsdW91z83Y/s320/CF_FINAL_004%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_t0Q-Suot_obdzSBtDQxLwBF7WISeB3M5QUEXBnJXJszweAg7190uWJpE1Kv_I132psRHZ8cLvUaemKVFwATG1KwcXEp3dsnTA-_1LKeVxit5yXTiV2_uOtthvedMLbCc3ucX14mLTNdlrXdTOL9kD9HI8fWy478VHEzXTcmLhx1CO5B9XnGw9IW4jK4/s5894/CF_FINAL_005%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_t0Q-Suot_obdzSBtDQxLwBF7WISeB3M5QUEXBnJXJszweAg7190uWJpE1Kv_I132psRHZ8cLvUaemKVFwATG1KwcXEp3dsnTA-_1LKeVxit5yXTiV2_uOtthvedMLbCc3ucX14mLTNdlrXdTOL9kD9HI8fWy478VHEzXTcmLhx1CO5B9XnGw9IW4jK4/s320/CF_FINAL_005%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoZd4g2Q8YzoS2bbi8x53bXPkMeUcGxuyjAfDDzTchizXzIREUaAPhqliZwAMn1A_NANO12j-i6uUpTzSU_ctsv8l9lLoz4Pok0ZuUfAPjCcpU72vlLD18NCfN1SSRdSpsjpjJTs7SBv4G0XFLdzaXsBMV4HhAo1bjhKavnGS_8YwWPgSRJdQeF6uRiSQ/s5894/CF_FINAL_020%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoZd4g2Q8YzoS2bbi8x53bXPkMeUcGxuyjAfDDzTchizXzIREUaAPhqliZwAMn1A_NANO12j-i6uUpTzSU_ctsv8l9lLoz4Pok0ZuUfAPjCcpU72vlLD18NCfN1SSRdSpsjpjJTs7SBv4G0XFLdzaXsBMV4HhAo1bjhKavnGS_8YwWPgSRJdQeF6uRiSQ/s320/CF_FINAL_020%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiglKpe_homOHNmxLtv2K536FYhlwvT7MoOOrjBNYReqwFWFGrXPeGbR4QzewFvNgoFSyzHVIvUqJMJ7NNAgt7dwvyBwQFU-2EH9PHOGHfVjvw5m4YABkSNqB2pujuYAZlPclwC0fWhryJ8JacdJhU9JbehBKCNeUvhZEbjkVd3ydcyL6QzxE5Su4iU9Xs/s5894/CF_FINAL_007%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiglKpe_homOHNmxLtv2K536FYhlwvT7MoOOrjBNYReqwFWFGrXPeGbR4QzewFvNgoFSyzHVIvUqJMJ7NNAgt7dwvyBwQFU-2EH9PHOGHfVjvw5m4YABkSNqB2pujuYAZlPclwC0fWhryJ8JacdJhU9JbehBKCNeUvhZEbjkVd3ydcyL6QzxE5Su4iU9Xs/s320/CF_FINAL_007%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgF6DuD2fNBUEtO7AAMPlnRqYx3xPBwq-3JWpnYYd-16TkR1C_tE8-xeBwyyRV80mZPMBmMkopbJ4vsdSGW6BjiXnojIdEq_TbTfCDnFE-U3H8l6StzCZW_V80IcX01MmAapPZpqzqD_hpTUd6OmG-788c4C0HKXE54z8xnilgLqd9yiM8sDCba0kHTs/s5894/CF_FINAL_009%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgF6DuD2fNBUEtO7AAMPlnRqYx3xPBwq-3JWpnYYd-16TkR1C_tE8-xeBwyyRV80mZPMBmMkopbJ4vsdSGW6BjiXnojIdEq_TbTfCDnFE-U3H8l6StzCZW_V80IcX01MmAapPZpqzqD_hpTUd6OmG-788c4C0HKXE54z8xnilgLqd9yiM8sDCba0kHTs/s320/CF_FINAL_009%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISAXJe2YfSyO1zNRTmr0O6NtsGeuG396nigwb13ZeVKr_9t6XE-VQc8hYJ6LKwW3O1s-UmopR7dzr8FjrkQplVejOIRwSnNlfRPoZaFf1bFM1grF-tTW5C5XVXqlPdF64VpGfbuxjGqwCNAC7SsuYfFGf6qivp3pL7O4bjr4PNfuiEKpByJ7MxkbhvYQ/s5894/CF_FINAL_021%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISAXJe2YfSyO1zNRTmr0O6NtsGeuG396nigwb13ZeVKr_9t6XE-VQc8hYJ6LKwW3O1s-UmopR7dzr8FjrkQplVejOIRwSnNlfRPoZaFf1bFM1grF-tTW5C5XVXqlPdF64VpGfbuxjGqwCNAC7SsuYfFGf6qivp3pL7O4bjr4PNfuiEKpByJ7MxkbhvYQ/s320/CF_FINAL_021%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrNJvvMSE62g8r3RW_yB4ii4WJ3l2bIjTizWF8Yjo6coKykhwSMg_nhqfg7H_Hx3OwFBfEfRnN6Mav9dcIBIqGT-3j1o8I_t7jWeNhkQJyiZHvfvpOfUK3T419rk934us-S7nFf_haHUi9zZl1ctdiBO_C-aD_O_su0FOoNNU03tTClGxortPGsOJ2bu4/s5894/CF_FINAL_010%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrNJvvMSE62g8r3RW_yB4ii4WJ3l2bIjTizWF8Yjo6coKykhwSMg_nhqfg7H_Hx3OwFBfEfRnN6Mav9dcIBIqGT-3j1o8I_t7jWeNhkQJyiZHvfvpOfUK3T419rk934us-S7nFf_haHUi9zZl1ctdiBO_C-aD_O_su0FOoNNU03tTClGxortPGsOJ2bu4/s320/CF_FINAL_010%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVUuAK1dzHkDWpUzKyMnlAXJM39kdm81uywVhtD1eVKRB_9HX89SuWNeNmxJGaIY5B3vz9v294KkObEewPQGMXLHXUg7cooR5jGorNLT5vqqq_yrko5gg-gz-qxzSHubuonxafE7kChGYzPhBZwGLgnXVlYusmczpu2yLmbwPQL6pepg84XdKY1MhnNxc/s5894/CF_FINAL_006%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVUuAK1dzHkDWpUzKyMnlAXJM39kdm81uywVhtD1eVKRB_9HX89SuWNeNmxJGaIY5B3vz9v294KkObEewPQGMXLHXUg7cooR5jGorNLT5vqqq_yrko5gg-gz-qxzSHubuonxafE7kChGYzPhBZwGLgnXVlYusmczpu2yLmbwPQL6pepg84XdKY1MhnNxc/s320/CF_FINAL_006%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsXbKcomjvjm8q7Z_xD2FJvMBwUxXYp5NJxZbQs-Sf_Hxn7at21G914L7XUMZus2olGM4CuslwiQvBKyh8tpvtH11XTyS6bRXib7m2eZ7ApQ7PdmIYGg8-twCRCdVCi04TW1szaMoUs4dF7fpYJ3UKmbYFFZm8_t6VsEyfbrTfxsVAkWvGP_jeG3OcOq4/s5894/CF_FINAL_019%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5894" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsXbKcomjvjm8q7Z_xD2FJvMBwUxXYp5NJxZbQs-Sf_Hxn7at21G914L7XUMZus2olGM4CuslwiQvBKyh8tpvtH11XTyS6bRXib7m2eZ7ApQ7PdmIYGg8-twCRCdVCi04TW1szaMoUs4dF7fpYJ3UKmbYFFZm8_t6VsEyfbrTfxsVAkWvGP_jeG3OcOq4/s320/CF_FINAL_019%20copy.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And a few without the other accessories.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVTBngrs40ToEqvBzvsdcfKuIIAXeCxrUjXNItWCayzr6grelT1i2BFEo6-dg34sDKPn3hrqZVdzvln1tjPR4xgy8EKaCuFX6MhNEdwPP8Aqu7S7EJ85LV0Uv2D1bRIrTpryauHaLaNk9sdUhKkmekH65MGg7Go5eYvHhGg87qSG4qmt__Lr0L3jdY5vY/s5356/CF_FINAL_011%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5356" data-original-width="3242" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVTBngrs40ToEqvBzvsdcfKuIIAXeCxrUjXNItWCayzr6grelT1i2BFEo6-dg34sDKPn3hrqZVdzvln1tjPR4xgy8EKaCuFX6MhNEdwPP8Aqu7S7EJ85LV0Uv2D1bRIrTpryauHaLaNk9sdUhKkmekH65MGg7Go5eYvHhGg87qSG4qmt__Lr0L3jdY5vY/s320/CF_FINAL_011%20copy.jpg" width="194" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7igCehlFQ0tTBRsWCdTzTRDcnnhlG_LoKkb_cZSzloCOD_CD-qKqsj70vt4S78fxwckKvdV9YKCZ6J31eaVwJ3foE8W_h75hSPqWftdsYxNq6HIMBDMTopJpfIqkZ-ERwp40T95FTzmotjl0ypLNz1Y7VM6rR9Q3GQNIvaDrg77e5sSLXEWZB3FEx9I/s5356/CF_FINAL_012%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5356" data-original-width="3242" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7igCehlFQ0tTBRsWCdTzTRDcnnhlG_LoKkb_cZSzloCOD_CD-qKqsj70vt4S78fxwckKvdV9YKCZ6J31eaVwJ3foE8W_h75hSPqWftdsYxNq6HIMBDMTopJpfIqkZ-ERwp40T95FTzmotjl0ypLNz1Y7VM6rR9Q3GQNIvaDrg77e5sSLXEWZB3FEx9I/s320/CF_FINAL_012%20copy.jpg" width="194" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw7hRFhtquDGkWl1OSt8D5a9t2oAQUU_5Hulz5wmSicrD86M0Jegd1xUXu3ZiaJbv7UUj7_J3oQLgQwwlnJb9ABwk9sc4zVKCSidYkeaImxQrYYHgOJ9v7fHa8jo3niQ1MNmAftaQZWWnx3rBbvZA86mXEaMfNTxpEQ3w6ktw9qRlvrJ096A90CeIDUc8/s5356/CF_FINAL_013%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5356" data-original-width="3242" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw7hRFhtquDGkWl1OSt8D5a9t2oAQUU_5Hulz5wmSicrD86M0Jegd1xUXu3ZiaJbv7UUj7_J3oQLgQwwlnJb9ABwk9sc4zVKCSidYkeaImxQrYYHgOJ9v7fHa8jo3niQ1MNmAftaQZWWnx3rBbvZA86mXEaMfNTxpEQ3w6ktw9qRlvrJ096A90CeIDUc8/s320/CF_FINAL_013%20copy.jpg" width="194" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqJDctNk5OHlDSe2utcW8KbStipbqIcWmVADBrpAbzqW-I_TRTmNKgloTiRWaRA7x4o9I0XheHmdwjECbcwlPcoEsPe1NFW0drj6Y9qxF1zByi0Gma2Qxu1s0w3S17DIqadOqAe0FTI5hT-hq_EzMB1KAGggAUzkCNNSk7zf6nWqUpYMpNtRmlRx8lc_8/s5356/CF_FINAL_014%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5356" data-original-width="3242" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqJDctNk5OHlDSe2utcW8KbStipbqIcWmVADBrpAbzqW-I_TRTmNKgloTiRWaRA7x4o9I0XheHmdwjECbcwlPcoEsPe1NFW0drj6Y9qxF1zByi0Gma2Qxu1s0w3S17DIqadOqAe0FTI5hT-hq_EzMB1KAGggAUzkCNNSk7zf6nWqUpYMpNtRmlRx8lc_8/s320/CF_FINAL_014%20copy.jpg" width="194" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtgc2O6r2cxylGq9EMp7SE2O7Lxx5lA6A_bGVL8TtYYQgP5CDq8NTOb0t_OpW7zbgpBGGaDl-_bW8K36FrMuWhb3GYbbwngGJvXj6KotF5yDapChFKU_hfbeMOyTIrzqAwUjQAzOR7r0-T0xNLCKIMutRHI4C5Gs2IGF4w7vgV_qRjhDlzeIfeVYEnFXs/s5356/CF_FINAL_016%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5356" data-original-width="3242" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtgc2O6r2cxylGq9EMp7SE2O7Lxx5lA6A_bGVL8TtYYQgP5CDq8NTOb0t_OpW7zbgpBGGaDl-_bW8K36FrMuWhb3GYbbwngGJvXj6KotF5yDapChFKU_hfbeMOyTIrzqAwUjQAzOR7r0-T0xNLCKIMutRHI4C5Gs2IGF4w7vgV_qRjhDlzeIfeVYEnFXs/s320/CF_FINAL_016%20copy.jpg" width="194" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_E-tVU9ZdgD3zK23rSahIZCQRtzKXlxnwwGJ6pq9eizjGOudFs5ySkvxF1aGgdu0H-Kywkm2AQ6KgiO7jJglkE-eLi-6ORrP9jvKZyd1214hxjIZjZ8jMH13sFD24CQoQgP8e8IakQDU5x-auhrU2yPGwWegQ2DUTJ_mg3OE-rDGxc2TvoxljE6XGnzg/s5356/CF_FINAL_017%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5356" data-original-width="3242" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_E-tVU9ZdgD3zK23rSahIZCQRtzKXlxnwwGJ6pq9eizjGOudFs5ySkvxF1aGgdu0H-Kywkm2AQ6KgiO7jJglkE-eLi-6ORrP9jvKZyd1214hxjIZjZ8jMH13sFD24CQoQgP8e8IakQDU5x-auhrU2yPGwWegQ2DUTJ_mg3OE-rDGxc2TvoxljE6XGnzg/s320/CF_FINAL_017%20copy.jpg" width="194" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBinv0VOfk_GH235gZsCM9tfbzhTGdphupUN50y1BAueiYfRjPJtA0hGuMeNYYHBiFwuSVvJE0qoB1awY2z74gdb-_P_0uKU_lu5Hbjmi1HWTE6WNjRTTxu9CV3j4cmH-VF0Cxe3dIr54QIGf7VctCaiKpWps2TJAuj3trHDoilPIOL0eRL-Xj8SlXPlc/s5356/CF_FINAL_018%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5356" data-original-width="3242" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBinv0VOfk_GH235gZsCM9tfbzhTGdphupUN50y1BAueiYfRjPJtA0hGuMeNYYHBiFwuSVvJE0qoB1awY2z74gdb-_P_0uKU_lu5Hbjmi1HWTE6WNjRTTxu9CV3j4cmH-VF0Cxe3dIr54QIGf7VctCaiKpWps2TJAuj3trHDoilPIOL0eRL-Xj8SlXPlc/s320/CF_FINAL_018%20copy.jpg" width="194" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: left;">I love this outfit to bits.</div><div style="text-align: left;">It's just so <i>fun</i>.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I definitely plan to return to the camp follower aesthetic and to other German looks in the future. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Pc0i7p-J-dgEciitNQ1ygLff8ICBCW90zBDFfKg2kDLL7il04RvSefRSOUvm9VC95uSSBJVMlMUOW0oUk4kmP0L6n9DBYJIMMsc-w-edTT0RWt5kywEpEtdvxZ-cuukwYoDrFfLxSLrz2c5y26v8iDWOowdXlJsj-WpXEO1wVfaXIYl0vPacgks2I28/s1160/CF_compare_06.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1005" data-original-width="1160" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Pc0i7p-J-dgEciitNQ1ygLff8ICBCW90zBDFfKg2kDLL7il04RvSefRSOUvm9VC95uSSBJVMlMUOW0oUk4kmP0L6n9DBYJIMMsc-w-edTT0RWt5kywEpEtdvxZ-cuukwYoDrFfLxSLrz2c5y26v8iDWOowdXlJsj-WpXEO1wVfaXIYl0vPacgks2I28/w400-h346/CF_compare_06.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">***</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Accessories:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Wool felt chicken from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ArtFeltFibres">ArtFeltFibres</a> on Etsy.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Leather purse by <a href="https://www.karlrobinson.co.uk/">Karl Robinson, Leatherworker</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Knife and sheath by <a href="https://todcutler.com/en-us">Tod Cutler</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Leather belt by <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/DarkVictoryArmory">DarkVictoryArmory</a> on Etsy.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Pattern:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-<a href="https://www.themodernmaker.co/">The Modern Maker Vol 2</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Fabric:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Pink solid wool flannel from <a href="https://dorrmillstore.com/">Dorr Mill</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Brown solid wool flannel from <a href="https://dorrmillstore.com/">Dorr Mill</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black "Judy" linen (5.5 oz) from <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Green-58 "Judy" linen (5.5 oz) from <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Coffee "Warsa" linen canvas (7.5 oz) from <a href="https://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/warsa-linen-">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Trim and Notions:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Back Worsted Wool tape from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Beige linen tape from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Thread:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Pink silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Green cotton thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White cotton thread (silk finish)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White linen thread</div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-22666929758880372042024-01-23T14:25:00.000-08:002024-01-28T13:07:27.482-08:001590s Black Loose Gown<p style="text-align: center;"> <span style="text-align: center;">***</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8TKRmXA0NR3s_nM1jsV6ZgwX98AfoG-Pt0gQ5B13aAUzuvFxnaQaINdsXmguD_TdbMSAQJ700yLK_WveUm2RFw6CbppoYQ0ZikVQfDA64kOwesH4umU1S85TIQbNMNS26vEJYBzEikNxJFvK0D02qxmDoTPH4RRGNyPA7jPy-ydRyIfV7VXZ2MEL4yoY/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8TKRmXA0NR3s_nM1jsV6ZgwX98AfoG-Pt0gQ5B13aAUzuvFxnaQaINdsXmguD_TdbMSAQJ700yLK_WveUm2RFw6CbppoYQ0ZikVQfDA64kOwesH4umU1S85TIQbNMNS26vEJYBzEikNxJFvK0D02qxmDoTPH4RRGNyPA7jPy-ydRyIfV7VXZ2MEL4yoY/s320/Nurse_COMBO_18.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9LqYPaM3jhZ06EtY7gdd2hLnigUuRv2_U1Y2djt8uuUfSy8tfJyT5Db1dgdbFvqQdJkTvEQtVHt-1HNr065DVA2CHUleYVTFrV90JNObHZkzWblx6Hb5Cq4d-VjHwq1qfe-ThUq8sfaGM8ASfzFhvfISsWjei61DQ8x9NpdS3kNG8sELei7_NTLu2kH8/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_12%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9LqYPaM3jhZ06EtY7gdd2hLnigUuRv2_U1Y2djt8uuUfSy8tfJyT5Db1dgdbFvqQdJkTvEQtVHt-1HNr065DVA2CHUleYVTFrV90JNObHZkzWblx6Hb5Cq4d-VjHwq1qfe-ThUq8sfaGM8ASfzFhvfISsWjei61DQ8x9NpdS3kNG8sELei7_NTLu2kH8/s320/Nurse_COMBO_12%20copy.jpg" width="209" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I'm still working through the backlog of pieces that I completed during lockdown but never got around to photographing. Next up: A 1590s loose gown.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I realize that it's getting a bit cliche to describe <i>every</i> new outfit as having been "on the go for a while" but man...this one has <i>REALLY</i> been on the go for a while.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Looking back at my old posts, I've been planning and working on this project for at least the last 10 years. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">So let's back up a bit...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTer5n6OMpFszzxJ09K_OgUBrsRTOdif_GDK1byiiKIkpV374bxvSg14ZinJ1W0OkQywYNZx1Us2V1V0i7fg20tNXkmtKXEi5CvqmTHrmob9ovUyuE5HINa1sLgDh-Sv4BIdHgCkROw9qsYXYHlOgSwo2b-IqOSqAsHBZF3nNZlGiwErU2W2E_LhaBPw/s1199/John_Dunch_and_his_nurse_Elizabeth_Field.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="962" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTer5n6OMpFszzxJ09K_OgUBrsRTOdif_GDK1byiiKIkpV374bxvSg14ZinJ1W0OkQywYNZx1Us2V1V0i7fg20tNXkmtKXEi5CvqmTHrmob9ovUyuE5HINa1sLgDh-Sv4BIdHgCkROw9qsYXYHlOgSwo2b-IqOSqAsHBZF3nNZlGiwErU2W2E_LhaBPw/w321-h400/John_Dunch_and_his_nurse_Elizabeth_Field.jpg" width="321" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Some time in the early 2010s I fell in love with a short-lived, but very specific style from the 1590s, epitomized by the portrait of John Dunch and his Nurse, Elizabeth Fields (above).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Elizabeth's outfit consists of a black, loose gown (with what appears to be wide, black velvet revers); a large black hat; a large white ruff; and a white (pleated?) linen stomacher of some kind.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">This look is not often seen in portraits, but appears very frequently in tomb brasses from the 1590s.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV75ah4-vGSSMWkT7pTvz49S38Te9TKtm9oK_-kF54tB9DSZfEh2fPuBK8BGYs_XAFbatGlwP71p_AR2_jizPOkflw_gaKDVZxsyHcehkBuAzIFWsFsr4AltOjYFROZ9yGKfzD22Y-Cjc/s1600/brass2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV75ah4-vGSSMWkT7pTvz49S38Te9TKtm9oK_-kF54tB9DSZfEh2fPuBK8BGYs_XAFbatGlwP71p_AR2_jizPOkflw_gaKDVZxsyHcehkBuAzIFWsFsr4AltOjYFROZ9yGKfzD22Y-Cjc/s320/brass2.jpg" width="151" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_Yrx7RC45MfIUuWmwstZgcyeLbomuaZqmi_j_JuGwRVZdbM9caDtmSElp8NPscRy_cON_RdYoBtlgh4JP42m1Ou60JK64tp4ZjYxP2JqBbMgLMUxfmqqPkzoYZY2Z_frjEwBpy3isyk/s1600/brass6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_Yrx7RC45MfIUuWmwstZgcyeLbomuaZqmi_j_JuGwRVZdbM9caDtmSElp8NPscRy_cON_RdYoBtlgh4JP42m1Ou60JK64tp4ZjYxP2JqBbMgLMUxfmqqPkzoYZY2Z_frjEwBpy3isyk/s320/brass6.jpg" width="202" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Wife of Arthur Pennyng, 1593</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2qMkU0HzOCesAx5HlQ3cvG0CyFSey_8b4T42Mo-H6QwkJdjzSv5hyphenhyphenxKTnSxaLxChN8GuXgZDW1RXYy6_CPoRsZ_WDlcGXymWFyKh0QOhoVUAktJTor_3kORL0gg3eKft4sxkC75oYpk/s1600/351f1cb6b8019d7a2778a4f8c60bd4f2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2qMkU0HzOCesAx5HlQ3cvG0CyFSey_8b4T42Mo-H6QwkJdjzSv5hyphenhyphenxKTnSxaLxChN8GuXgZDW1RXYy6_CPoRsZ_WDlcGXymWFyKh0QOhoVUAktJTor_3kORL0gg3eKft4sxkC75oYpk/s320/351f1cb6b8019d7a2778a4f8c60bd4f2.jpg" width="161" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNa7nL9OnkrT7rLBA2k234NFpYkL076i_iqsb9l9_lbmnsbKsVaNd1bV9qoH0veSLTlp46nvClix9EcPUtK19fk_-b3P98Y-2V3jzl4tnhHFde4GPgpXBLwzYOMvtoMWvfXqFVMLAHAtk/s1600/0ee8b96d5f876930b31c93aec393a740.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNa7nL9OnkrT7rLBA2k234NFpYkL076i_iqsb9l9_lbmnsbKsVaNd1bV9qoH0veSLTlp46nvClix9EcPUtK19fk_-b3P98Y-2V3jzl4tnhHFde4GPgpXBLwzYOMvtoMWvfXqFVMLAHAtk/s320/0ee8b96d5f876930b31c93aec393a740.jpg" width="230" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Unknown Lady, 1590</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuOJWGPCdjujgPCBQHKDuCiVanBwC8JBTDgt-w4tmaaI7Ni7RI-x46aXtXn8ek7YKLqqdH52ivTAmhliUIFcPMtBuy-NjNbmPUimZDuZoYhOnRHmn0MAM1zMK17srJB5u26t2gebh4tSQ/s1600/7687b733c83a102550ce371e2d305125.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuOJWGPCdjujgPCBQHKDuCiVanBwC8JBTDgt-w4tmaaI7Ni7RI-x46aXtXn8ek7YKLqqdH52ivTAmhliUIFcPMtBuy-NjNbmPUimZDuZoYhOnRHmn0MAM1zMK17srJB5u26t2gebh4tSQ/s320/7687b733c83a102550ce371e2d305125.jpg" width="164" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqzxdE44jjcFzwronB2Ycp1JV5AUUD4p3-aB3A2UO1jog8kziFyfNfQtD81Xjne-7fJN4dwnuKPsXAJ-hrg-4vUc1Kpqyom3obSG1ZSbex1U0UykSV5ngP5xoX1-llP-MxBZ4XREGa_0/s1600/0391f2d2b68dc1e5135608c65fd5969b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqzxdE44jjcFzwronB2Ycp1JV5AUUD4p3-aB3A2UO1jog8kziFyfNfQtD81Xjne-7fJN4dwnuKPsXAJ-hrg-4vUc1Kpqyom3obSG1ZSbex1U0UykSV5ngP5xoX1-llP-MxBZ4XREGa_0/s320/0391f2d2b68dc1e5135608c65fd5969b.jpg" width="202" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Margeri Browne, 1594</span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">And less frequently, in miniatures:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-MFkWR7A1heqb55o-XoTkGnhRbLELSHnsfG_jHDKeGXqj-Hc00k34O_WFzLo-RN5Vk0vXfwk4eLCWPueWI9zq3Z7U46Lwu41ciBmlue8sdurAyHuc_2TbxW5EvMXI2_KOAigQl92if-6-TJ9n2LImfFeogdvMH7utkDUW-0Jw1AWvaBD1QZfd5oA-1h4/s500/3CD9CD4E-510D-44B7-A28E-7C73CF316D73.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="364" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-MFkWR7A1heqb55o-XoTkGnhRbLELSHnsfG_jHDKeGXqj-Hc00k34O_WFzLo-RN5Vk0vXfwk4eLCWPueWI9zq3Z7U46Lwu41ciBmlue8sdurAyHuc_2TbxW5EvMXI2_KOAigQl92if-6-TJ9n2LImfFeogdvMH7utkDUW-0Jw1AWvaBD1QZfd5oA-1h4/s320/3CD9CD4E-510D-44B7-A28E-7C73CF316D73.jpeg" width="233" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qEWiLy4gGnaXRSm0S0j9TF0SUF6_ePY_WFyy9T5ZQerKfo_LBYT6RaeTRSmYLz8RWKvTbTrM7YnS2Q7VMhOOYP9Jea1yS3zTf2U10XLm-SaogptRVp5RfRRvBoeTQammb_delZiN-bD17dJUv-7naXVZDLj1-XwRl_LZCFa8AsBFMQ3sRMK5L_KIV5w/s893/58F728D3-79DD-49CA-A390-F0B3FC20D80E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="893" data-original-width="670" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qEWiLy4gGnaXRSm0S0j9TF0SUF6_ePY_WFyy9T5ZQerKfo_LBYT6RaeTRSmYLz8RWKvTbTrM7YnS2Q7VMhOOYP9Jea1yS3zTf2U10XLm-SaogptRVp5RfRRvBoeTQammb_delZiN-bD17dJUv-7naXVZDLj1-XwRl_LZCFa8AsBFMQ3sRMK5L_KIV5w/s320/58F728D3-79DD-49CA-A390-F0B3FC20D80E.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Two Unknown Ladies, 1590s</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">And even in an allegorical painting: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4mBRKDAEPKISrKKuCWrLuNoRd3qO8gzcO5JODdWW6VuGIFy30JrfYpPrYKvLDhquF2Ot4GYXYChP-wn_u0QBBeGw7eFHB7eF4a9oKTKKW8sFn5sK5PbOa8p0vfJnqHm7e0fTZYXGOSPY/s1600/a8a1400d2bdefa29aa696759bf554fc5.jpg"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4mBRKDAEPKISrKKuCWrLuNoRd3qO8gzcO5JODdWW6VuGIFy30JrfYpPrYKvLDhquF2Ot4GYXYChP-wn_u0QBBeGw7eFHB7eF4a9oKTKKW8sFn5sK5PbOa8p0vfJnqHm7e0fTZYXGOSPY/s320/a8a1400d2bdefa29aa696759bf554fc5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWQEAgIuAffF32-4s7bi7xzEFKj92HWNk_Up5XZWr5DaRczpRcK_ADU_wmFXh5BHeGd7-Us8wgGRGIQrLjI0hu72QqAEdYtnGUBXAMUH3Xk6zaClw0i7XudAJqKOncYUhb5qu0kcwFpoU/s1600/2bb0ceac02ef3c6e5ebf38c5ee65da61.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWQEAgIuAffF32-4s7bi7xzEFKj92HWNk_Up5XZWr5DaRczpRcK_ADU_wmFXh5BHeGd7-Us8wgGRGIQrLjI0hu72QqAEdYtnGUBXAMUH3Xk6zaClw0i7XudAJqKOncYUhb5qu0kcwFpoU/s320/2bb0ceac02ef3c6e5ebf38c5ee65da61.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: small;">Detail: A Party in the Open Air (Allegory on Conjugal Love) 1590-95</span></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Most of the pieces seemed relatively straightforward, but the defining feature of this style -- the white "pigeon breast" -- really had me flummoxed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I won't rehash my whole research process again (those inclined can find my increasingly unhinged ramblings <i><b><a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2017/02/1590s-gown-resurrected.html">HERE</a></b></i>).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">But the long and short of it was...I had no idea.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">However, for the sake of this project I decided that some sort of dickey would be the most practical solution. (Based on a Regency chemisette)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbHH6wlpOLWRd9EzTemkpFa9O1HMZzMyz8p20Z8zT17Md4SxCxYAlQlf75NqSOCPJaArVjyvtscAJoN9Swd4zXimcCiZDQou1w2Igl0gsY397kngPjITOsPzjFyu14SAxvkAQPXcvhSWUoz0cqik6RPMUKGJf9Ior2fP_-RnHkuiBVlIT4O5K_BDgRNY/s2000/whitefront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="1091" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbHH6wlpOLWRd9EzTemkpFa9O1HMZzMyz8p20Z8zT17Md4SxCxYAlQlf75NqSOCPJaArVjyvtscAJoN9Swd4zXimcCiZDQou1w2Igl0gsY397kngPjITOsPzjFyu14SAxvkAQPXcvhSWUoz0cqik6RPMUKGJf9Ior2fP_-RnHkuiBVlIT4O5K_BDgRNY/s320/whitefront.jpg" width="175" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigcYcZc8ZNNm_iMwEjr2Ou9g5HIn4gkcd6murTMnG85d5gttmmWqQMy3AIpctTY1ZktFb-8b03dgtYO7oykzuAH09EhMvxvXYdrGsVSYnHihBnNsVZSHUe16q5mKUWRQbxvusMu_26jKqw8gC4pc5UGNsXNw60ogspDLDlukS1oqzVar7uSUbgZ-Pj4wo/s1466/F0D1CA0C-B0C1-460A-AA1A-E6DBA663169C.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1466" data-original-width="886" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigcYcZc8ZNNm_iMwEjr2Ou9g5HIn4gkcd6murTMnG85d5gttmmWqQMy3AIpctTY1ZktFb-8b03dgtYO7oykzuAH09EhMvxvXYdrGsVSYnHihBnNsVZSHUe16q5mKUWRQbxvusMu_26jKqw8gC4pc5UGNsXNw60ogspDLDlukS1oqzVar7uSUbgZ-Pj4wo/s320/F0D1CA0C-B0C1-460A-AA1A-E6DBA663169C.jpeg" width="193" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2bK1P0xes7lsg9UeA4m0dDlEWyBsR2rpcReutGQrKaJ7umDaXlLJSS4O6qq7ddu-unT9sqa88HjJAFUmeYvc999IfSfLGibs34yMdZyLHJb4KvXiJNtNcQ9Efe2ML7uVxi3jFP7nqtZVMkYI4WEmXptDoPzQtLcEKOIDwr607GsbbpY9w_w_xL7ygzvY/s735/68E59E4A-6C47-4EB9-AA81-084D9445073D.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="735" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2bK1P0xes7lsg9UeA4m0dDlEWyBsR2rpcReutGQrKaJ7umDaXlLJSS4O6qq7ddu-unT9sqa88HjJAFUmeYvc999IfSfLGibs34yMdZyLHJb4KvXiJNtNcQ9Efe2ML7uVxi3jFP7nqtZVMkYI4WEmXptDoPzQtLcEKOIDwr607GsbbpY9w_w_xL7ygzvY/s320/68E59E4A-6C47-4EB9-AA81-084D9445073D.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">This is, incidentally, virtually the same approach that would be later hypothesized by the Tudor Tailor in "The Typical Tudor" in 2022 (pg.184). I guess great minds think alike...or in my case, addled minds. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(A video of their take on the same outfit can be found <b><i><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X31EDuc69T0">HERE</a></i></b>.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Okay. Cards on the table.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I have to begrudgingly admit that I was <i>childishly</i> annoyed that they had beaten me to the punch in "The Typical Tudor".</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Yes, it's immature and stupid...but at this point I was feeling very protective of this strange little style that I'd been nursing for nearly decade and didn't want to appear to be jumping on the bandwagon of their (frustratingly fantastic and beautiful) reproduction, especially since by then I had virtually all the pieces completed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">There. I said it. I'm a giant baby. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>ANYWAY...!</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">With that off my chest...let's soldier on, shall we?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Unsurprisingly, this being a 10 year process, I've lost (or can no longer make sense of) most of the photos I took along the way. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Regardless, let's begin way back in the mists of time with the mockup.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6zZreMIvgTXKtdFYA3eEiC3bwMupJbRAsH7ZxQH4Ukra-EYshFdjTsoV6CXM44sKZIaCT49pGn40qWTlNi8jdS5bCzmUQcdITXDYMI1PTraaYM8-yTGV7ePRnBmgxmRkeoDY_qiUI__c/s1600/mockup2.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6zZreMIvgTXKtdFYA3eEiC3bwMupJbRAsH7ZxQH4Ukra-EYshFdjTsoV6CXM44sKZIaCT49pGn40qWTlNi8jdS5bCzmUQcdITXDYMI1PTraaYM8-yTGV7ePRnBmgxmRkeoDY_qiUI__c/s640/mockup2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(More photos of the mock up process can be found<i><b><a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2015/06/more-indecision-battle-of-mockups.html"> HERE:</a>)</b></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i><b><br /></b></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The pattern is based on the Loose Gown with Revers from the original Tudor Tailor (pg. 76-77), with the large sleeves from the Late Period Gown (pg. 129)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">As you can see above, I really struggled to get the collar to lay properly...and though I eventually altered the pattern to fit, I cannot for the life of me remember how (and a photos are lost on a memory card somewhere).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I believe this issue has ben resolved with an updated version of this gown in The Typical Tudor (pg. 159).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVYnHSOqW3ScURtGIZS-2-X068JcmyRchvy0nI-hrJTr1saCDl5byc8YzY_5MTSkwG4VFAUERw8vY4i8772sdi9n0gUOpLqH0L84Uobf6NeEd3Pdu9fKySG-MiSe1wON1CiDsjZjnquoYSENL8w4hlZZ1xBw2vIAztXMCXgEv1I-R0OhOJCPe-vZ65AOQ/s1600/NP_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="1600" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVYnHSOqW3ScURtGIZS-2-X068JcmyRchvy0nI-hrJTr1saCDl5byc8YzY_5MTSkwG4VFAUERw8vY4i8772sdi9n0gUOpLqH0L84Uobf6NeEd3Pdu9fKySG-MiSe1wON1CiDsjZjnquoYSENL8w4hlZZ1xBw2vIAztXMCXgEv1I-R0OhOJCPe-vZ65AOQ/w640-h304/NP_01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Per the pattern, the sleeves will have two bones worked into the lining for support. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(Note: I had clearly scrapped this mockup by the time it came to hemming the gown --8 years later--because this is a much more attractive length than the final version).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Next the body of the gown is cut and made up.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(I ended up kicking myself slightly for choosing this cutting layout. Although it was a more efficient use of fabric it resulted in a very obviously different fabric nap for the front and back pieces, which is very noticeable in direct light)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6dNJglWVTpmFYkbcxeZj0ISZ8BTzSWGxjUxrcj7FYQkpLboQAWiAtDj6KEC0z-WI1yTci8DwTV9tM2zPCUZeVNmNlIVdrHVoMbFZvxXaYdumvbNnySJyDkGmLzToytiDiR5JEeMz8GTbSMv1hs1w7nUVHL5JQbt0KrPwNRmV1dTdzqaYXLwnIhgcKnVQ/s2365/E095DF1F-1652-49D9-AA9C-ABF71EA72C21.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2365" data-original-width="2283" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6dNJglWVTpmFYkbcxeZj0ISZ8BTzSWGxjUxrcj7FYQkpLboQAWiAtDj6KEC0z-WI1yTci8DwTV9tM2zPCUZeVNmNlIVdrHVoMbFZvxXaYdumvbNnySJyDkGmLzToytiDiR5JEeMz8GTbSMv1hs1w7nUVHL5JQbt0KrPwNRmV1dTdzqaYXLwnIhgcKnVQ/s320/E095DF1F-1652-49D9-AA9C-ABF71EA72C21.jpeg" width="309" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The velvet revers are attached the the lining. I didn't want to turn the velvet on the inside edge (because it would end up being bulky) so instead I bound the raw edge in a narrow silk ribbon and stitched it to the lining by hand. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjJFV2lhMC6wB4Tubqu4_zL4eZprM0Hrk82fWvbyfiGT0G3iLktKEiN-VqcL2yP78bLubcr5VW6rvmrw9kBigdKEOY3BCh1ZF1945UDqdTGulb5e1CCYBXQkBGYAFZjzB32e36QjShsGDzh02xA6Zy-AbiHDJSJcax4cQb3JsnL0tbcB42IrUEnPevKU/s5472/NP_02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3513" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjJFV2lhMC6wB4Tubqu4_zL4eZprM0Hrk82fWvbyfiGT0G3iLktKEiN-VqcL2yP78bLubcr5VW6rvmrw9kBigdKEOY3BCh1ZF1945UDqdTGulb5e1CCYBXQkBGYAFZjzB32e36QjShsGDzh02xA6Zy-AbiHDJSJcax4cQb3JsnL0tbcB42IrUEnPevKU/s320/NP_02.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy5itwHbZjHpaNHqkaX8PlYBjEW7A2KhXEqtJ49auBp3AV4DXaSbceMFxRqHgjOMLhOotB_VM_URq6JRLkTnakhdYzm7GkJs_vNb2wfb85X_HYsZbgM5NKM4rWQy2-ojLSvE074DkXNqACv8YeOGxb55zqnYZzCTOmUiKQfMzsh_5Xe83l4SrY8XsCszk/s4860/NP_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3315" data-original-width="4860" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy5itwHbZjHpaNHqkaX8PlYBjEW7A2KhXEqtJ49auBp3AV4DXaSbceMFxRqHgjOMLhOotB_VM_URq6JRLkTnakhdYzm7GkJs_vNb2wfb85X_HYsZbgM5NKM4rWQy2-ojLSvE074DkXNqACv8YeOGxb55zqnYZzCTOmUiKQfMzsh_5Xe83l4SrY8XsCszk/s320/NP_03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfJDyrCnLTE3WQVZZluoeY6HjwO66BlpLH1C2swp84WniHUzRo73Rs-2CQ7kY-6VRIOdU_GqzR6ENsZ2th0wfJSeKDW1xvbPoN_UKhv-BeH4qPv_yL5KfGsl7PGke-rKvO7QMcW_ORglARHJI0X6Gp4IjhoBfC0N72O_eFTv-lnisUvhiTidRSLAUXCCw/s5290/NP_04.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3467" data-original-width="5290" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfJDyrCnLTE3WQVZZluoeY6HjwO66BlpLH1C2swp84WniHUzRo73Rs-2CQ7kY-6VRIOdU_GqzR6ENsZ2th0wfJSeKDW1xvbPoN_UKhv-BeH4qPv_yL5KfGsl7PGke-rKvO7QMcW_ORglARHJI0X6Gp4IjhoBfC0N72O_eFTv-lnisUvhiTidRSLAUXCCw/s320/NP_04.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The gown and lining are then made up in a way so that the armsyce is finished completely. The sleeves will be whipstitched on later.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(Apologies, I could find absolutely no photos of this process)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis4qLc0zIrMHejl_dfzANyXA7mnOGPIAKB6_e2oQ7irQsV-KiHJfQEvtxV-4txHaECRSxrunHLLLmqU6uCIAFyRjcJOT_C0-jB5sg7NIRGbxgiS9UV5f7_4NwUlmgfMFFiN4x3L8_kzrg5KWewUwii0jgTRYfT2b3hhLkyzFxkFiMY_XGSkhun1wq9Yrw/s1515/C7ABBE76-1194-4B61-B09A-B434D38090FB.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1515" data-original-width="1206" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis4qLc0zIrMHejl_dfzANyXA7mnOGPIAKB6_e2oQ7irQsV-KiHJfQEvtxV-4txHaECRSxrunHLLLmqU6uCIAFyRjcJOT_C0-jB5sg7NIRGbxgiS9UV5f7_4NwUlmgfMFFiN4x3L8_kzrg5KWewUwii0jgTRYfT2b3hhLkyzFxkFiMY_XGSkhun1wq9Yrw/w319-h400/C7ABBE76-1194-4B61-B09A-B434D38090FB.jpeg" width="319" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(slightly ridiculous photo of gown --worn sleeveless-- over a black shirt)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Next, the sleeves are made up.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">First, an additional upper sleeve is made out of linen, on which I plan to sew the boning channels. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">My reasoning is that the extra layer will both give a tad more support and also (hopefully) keep the bones from being super noticeable from the outside. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">First, the lines for the bones are cut into the pattern with an exacto-knife, and the pattern placed over the cut piece...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilmNuR2gFQziS4QznMPXDgcfry-GJ4wQVjSE-LsUwL1OE-vnIWy4SA7tbUtdJMcYdGZuztzkX8pLvRz2FbIzwWOlQNeuoC-4b1n4nDXYOeQr7Fs-z5HsK04FFcl3qF_LYbAxYMBBXW8YTdBLaFOnEk2zD9M-pMjVFSv_Psk6hE_ZQCdhMXbitTSBLFtK8/s5285/NP_09.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3411" data-original-width="5285" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilmNuR2gFQziS4QznMPXDgcfry-GJ4wQVjSE-LsUwL1OE-vnIWy4SA7tbUtdJMcYdGZuztzkX8pLvRz2FbIzwWOlQNeuoC-4b1n4nDXYOeQr7Fs-z5HsK04FFcl3qF_LYbAxYMBBXW8YTdBLaFOnEk2zD9M-pMjVFSv_Psk6hE_ZQCdhMXbitTSBLFtK8/s320/NP_09.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">....and then traced in chalk.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(Kitty provides additional support.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVNlIYsXcqPUsnbx3yc87UIlCzf85N5PWW_erja8eFm9hXp8R3R5OAQGQY40oHcaAAuLOKRDKmPATwl5xuzZ2Iv3_j_Bn2jKJACS9DccBuPVApoUwNx0vSNQFgBAAog4ftakCcJMLg9qiuAjM6LZBRydtJaolveNclw8jCa53r-VYsr8E9BDEBhyphenhyphenGhiJM/s5119/NP_10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5119" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVNlIYsXcqPUsnbx3yc87UIlCzf85N5PWW_erja8eFm9hXp8R3R5OAQGQY40oHcaAAuLOKRDKmPATwl5xuzZ2Iv3_j_Bn2jKJACS9DccBuPVApoUwNx0vSNQFgBAAog4ftakCcJMLg9qiuAjM6LZBRydtJaolveNclw8jCa53r-VYsr8E9BDEBhyphenhyphenGhiJM/s320/NP_10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(...But only up to a point.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2PDo4v1l5HnX4sxAudaOqZD5ZbxNUtkOmW2Ygt2eD4g5ryTsNZAyjlmhJa6zD4aOildD40PJnNH50lP_GKdfDmk8YkqWFMgeYQgsSYbQC4-KPfyB8DCyJ0wtAzAYshbjuonxaNQ7HCn29ShdoEMMu_tRRuNNdKHps_5ZqXS-eN3ieXzS0qNU_LnZGfc/s4027/NP_19.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3559" data-original-width="4027" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2PDo4v1l5HnX4sxAudaOqZD5ZbxNUtkOmW2Ygt2eD4g5ryTsNZAyjlmhJa6zD4aOildD40PJnNH50lP_GKdfDmk8YkqWFMgeYQgsSYbQC4-KPfyB8DCyJ0wtAzAYshbjuonxaNQ7HCn29ShdoEMMu_tRRuNNdKHps_5ZqXS-eN3ieXzS0qNU_LnZGfc/s320/NP_19.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">With the boning lines marked, two strips of worsted wool tape are pinned down...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMmjS5pwOnn9ggy8tv3WL8kuAVYd9RXYhoEj326GlNL6UwPu4wCcySwoIJqNaIwU7zkn7sKkdmqAbge9yB_0osoAetulIfIfn727ChuwSfo6M8raDvOMPs-_cT5Xj82hyHsAtXU8oufy8LeWh1lyEwaCDvhD30-GVqUPEhNivwSLZQ441yoId0IIzrT4/s5000/NP_11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2933" data-original-width="5000" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMmjS5pwOnn9ggy8tv3WL8kuAVYd9RXYhoEj326GlNL6UwPu4wCcySwoIJqNaIwU7zkn7sKkdmqAbge9yB_0osoAetulIfIfn727ChuwSfo6M8raDvOMPs-_cT5Xj82hyHsAtXU8oufy8LeWh1lyEwaCDvhD30-GVqUPEhNivwSLZQ441yoId0IIzrT4/s320/NP_11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgauIP47WpUbyCxbDrzgkXsuZLAHp2BwP74w1ObM5dO3L5frBGrFDBWEXYacGlvdc6EK6C8OH0TJT8tgc-4Q-78nwc_WOCODQeV0ROqDBycsHnlLclkx2OC8us443uzkPhwKIVecLgDf576tOD4Xx7ghg4FznJpg2wdVLvdx10bVa-HiMnTj1jKe8lAd6A/s5056/NP_05.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3211" data-original-width="5056" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgauIP47WpUbyCxbDrzgkXsuZLAHp2BwP74w1ObM5dO3L5frBGrFDBWEXYacGlvdc6EK6C8OH0TJT8tgc-4Q-78nwc_WOCODQeV0ROqDBycsHnlLclkx2OC8us443uzkPhwKIVecLgDf576tOD4Xx7ghg4FznJpg2wdVLvdx10bVa-HiMnTj1jKe8lAd6A/s320/NP_05.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">.... and stitched into place along the outside edges.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFxxWn0XXkmsxPXaLZ-CdvS0eumQNbJWHLmUVYNKhu50mFQdy12VjupF208m4Vy-NIwnXGP8pxjx4TJ_ldZKRaUd1pQUzY4IzfXbJZhmaj3we5ElF2osacOYABOBRERlaCI5iyirrmSV15HxqPcf1h5tEc9RrwlIi_vLqy7JaNaE7Ra2xOB4ZdNj_7Gf8/s5069/NP_06.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3280" data-original-width="5069" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFxxWn0XXkmsxPXaLZ-CdvS0eumQNbJWHLmUVYNKhu50mFQdy12VjupF208m4Vy-NIwnXGP8pxjx4TJ_ldZKRaUd1pQUzY4IzfXbJZhmaj3we5ElF2osacOYABOBRERlaCI5iyirrmSV15HxqPcf1h5tEc9RrwlIi_vLqy7JaNaE7Ra2xOB4ZdNj_7Gf8/s320/NP_06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Then the support layer is pinned to the sleeve lining and sewn down.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYrkR29TAmmemZENyhJCwh_4UHA2w_IK8x2Q-9NsxW8cnRhLTvdbKmzCSm8F50LidsK-vXDcm4ZjVzJwVs_BpHJ2g4TjM290_UGQ3-12GDGaH7DvwxhDeaRPbEMBub2rcu8nZJP57EiSr9aoAJ1_VVnHf6Eccffa6pPwik6ROI17rm4jwTk26-E8fh3qE/s3914/NP_07.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3914" data-original-width="3417" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYrkR29TAmmemZENyhJCwh_4UHA2w_IK8x2Q-9NsxW8cnRhLTvdbKmzCSm8F50LidsK-vXDcm4ZjVzJwVs_BpHJ2g4TjM290_UGQ3-12GDGaH7DvwxhDeaRPbEMBub2rcu8nZJP57EiSr9aoAJ1_VVnHf6Eccffa6pPwik6ROI17rm4jwTk26-E8fh3qE/s320/NP_07.jpg" width="279" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Synthetic whalebone is then cut to size and filled down, to keep the ends from poking through the fabric later.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(NOTE: Please wear a mask while filling. You don't want to inhale any mico-plastic dust)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvoWep7tT7iXGZDl7ny6swAgZPN2usDKYOZVd7T8MRdHPkrQhf6AiiGIQZtaOe-VmJMMqkSynXKwV8v1umPTfriks6f6TvIT9W1Qt3YAB6Bq-QuQFQY8FUK6jgzyMGlTmRNy__7bbBZdtxt-ooTXL6FvcOdFUcWKgvB5Tq0hPBd1D2sZNyWi-g1LLZMT4/s4434/NP_08.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3057" data-original-width="4434" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvoWep7tT7iXGZDl7ny6swAgZPN2usDKYOZVd7T8MRdHPkrQhf6AiiGIQZtaOe-VmJMMqkSynXKwV8v1umPTfriks6f6TvIT9W1Qt3YAB6Bq-QuQFQY8FUK6jgzyMGlTmRNy__7bbBZdtxt-ooTXL6FvcOdFUcWKgvB5Tq0hPBd1D2sZNyWi-g1LLZMT4/s320/NP_08.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The whalebone is inserted into the channels and the sleeves sewn together. Then the sleeve is turned, leaving a finished edge around the top of the sleeve.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYoyn75lwg0sNEOEX0AAa1BLgfXlzalGF7B6R3phtzxRSqz8-vVT8TMd8g48Z9LYQ-8IwW9F-p90Pl5h6mVoattbCa4mUv4Wu-r55Ej7ktyd9lvcK3LguOd2hccWf_K0rlcnh7UlLVe4PKp_rlS922FVeM4I5zpsPSjZgCH_OH6r905aUUU-5LCTwDEc/s5472/NP_12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3575" data-original-width="5472" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYoyn75lwg0sNEOEX0AAa1BLgfXlzalGF7B6R3phtzxRSqz8-vVT8TMd8g48Z9LYQ-8IwW9F-p90Pl5h6mVoattbCa4mUv4Wu-r55Ej7ktyd9lvcK3LguOd2hccWf_K0rlcnh7UlLVe4PKp_rlS922FVeM4I5zpsPSjZgCH_OH6r905aUUU-5LCTwDEc/s320/NP_12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDl-9Djq_6cXUdibOfjUgHDPsUYJIXEKzI53Wz9OX5O-mLuArlZg8mLqiQGgrUPwpnCFXCFNRamSVdYmqKMrmp-VtzfPkQBlF2ZQtajy3DKcm0iucu81MGJE7hyphenhyphenz0jMMOYkHD_VPYTUprWKBeq280yUSsBwmYjYOvaVGk5DwSQTIgjGP4hdsMV4MVWAU/s5472/NP_13.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2985" data-original-width="5472" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDl-9Djq_6cXUdibOfjUgHDPsUYJIXEKzI53Wz9OX5O-mLuArlZg8mLqiQGgrUPwpnCFXCFNRamSVdYmqKMrmp-VtzfPkQBlF2ZQtajy3DKcm0iucu81MGJE7hyphenhyphenz0jMMOYkHD_VPYTUprWKBeq280yUSsBwmYjYOvaVGk5DwSQTIgjGP4hdsMV4MVWAU/s320/NP_13.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The top of the finished sleeve edge is cartridge pleated and then the whole sleeve whipstitched to the finished armscye (note: a white thread line indicates the shoulder point on the sleeve).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5yCZXJmYKvVdrXok7dg0cJ4QrpRe_nLcmDvz85bttaOAaaU7fpuNRWCvi1AER7WMFib8Zpy_AE8DaRWXTgaAA75shm6SPl9W4bvT0fzerW9tr-yuqKuG6bYKSbJVVpWf8FFIkubDAxnwFBbW3Mdq4D8mFgmUZPwtDSctZVSesHi5Hvyp76chVFDQ7VvU/s5314/NP_14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3507" data-original-width="5314" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5yCZXJmYKvVdrXok7dg0cJ4QrpRe_nLcmDvz85bttaOAaaU7fpuNRWCvi1AER7WMFib8Zpy_AE8DaRWXTgaAA75shm6SPl9W4bvT0fzerW9tr-yuqKuG6bYKSbJVVpWf8FFIkubDAxnwFBbW3Mdq4D8mFgmUZPwtDSctZVSesHi5Hvyp76chVFDQ7VvU/s320/NP_14.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvX0Ps1p0-3tjutYo_uKBOlBfoBWvQCb23wAsoZxgVNStR0QyK4MFLaaeCfW3bbyux8xpcTEMNOKA7N0ClzaUlg-hSRpTmNDnNxwi5jXwP9y_W6k6LZkVgwIKN_yMq7XTm8-xrKAYcAcB7_jWjFXQDs9eM3FH2jYj9gxhyphenhyphenm10BukzYdpm-luutsLk_e40/s5331/NP_15.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3535" data-original-width="5331" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvX0Ps1p0-3tjutYo_uKBOlBfoBWvQCb23wAsoZxgVNStR0QyK4MFLaaeCfW3bbyux8xpcTEMNOKA7N0ClzaUlg-hSRpTmNDnNxwi5jXwP9y_W6k6LZkVgwIKN_yMq7XTm8-xrKAYcAcB7_jWjFXQDs9eM3FH2jYj9gxhyphenhyphenm10BukzYdpm-luutsLk_e40/s320/NP_15.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDXrUws8yVUohOGg4FXLK7iDyfTkn76fs0y5nDs_sDEEV2ZGJzFbhRLWYrFKt39hDq7Jv6HJ2HtzHnboiYIKziULjud5CDZnOr6VpmhTsBlQxiVy-LDtU7DVGS-8rTmSq1zti5JSdriNPwVyGVon6kHaDunmNFHuNdDc1hRKoRCAXXLWNr9c7n-TTwnw/s5472/NP_16.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDXrUws8yVUohOGg4FXLK7iDyfTkn76fs0y5nDs_sDEEV2ZGJzFbhRLWYrFKt39hDq7Jv6HJ2HtzHnboiYIKziULjud5CDZnOr6VpmhTsBlQxiVy-LDtU7DVGS-8rTmSq1zti5JSdriNPwVyGVon6kHaDunmNFHuNdDc1hRKoRCAXXLWNr9c7n-TTwnw/s320/NP_16.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Even with the boning, I still feel like I need additional sleeve support, so I decide to experiment with an internal shoulder roll. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The pattern in pulled from the Doublet Bodice in "The Tudor Tailor" (pg. 83)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The roll is stuffed with strips of cotton wadding and stitched closed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF_HvGP1y-MTyBWG4ruIyTa7vTP_8K2BwPjEyKFuKSUr-S6oE-q5bayvoJM6WdbrRoA2EBMiULB4Wqq_PG_8cAPPtRz_p-tt5QNhQ5gpSv-O6Zk4fYW92H4MIxtl7aoUf2y_J-b8dtovfjFTNKwuxE3GdBjGJPy125RHUQz99XZDEYiNQld44a_iy5hes/s5323/NP_17.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2636" data-original-width="5323" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF_HvGP1y-MTyBWG4ruIyTa7vTP_8K2BwPjEyKFuKSUr-S6oE-q5bayvoJM6WdbrRoA2EBMiULB4Wqq_PG_8cAPPtRz_p-tt5QNhQ5gpSv-O6Zk4fYW92H4MIxtl7aoUf2y_J-b8dtovfjFTNKwuxE3GdBjGJPy125RHUQz99XZDEYiNQld44a_iy5hes/s320/NP_17.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWTkzBND6WvfgLvXuri5XnqJgXf8XAwL9bNC7_gCtgEKfH1OnogocveVEDu8la4OhNebRPdhyphenhyphenru4VndmIwgcVwBy5HiyTSzZD5L9kMEnUebGLqbJs_-VTXLHIkl5Jx5-JSRq0thN1Sl4Gz8ENrSqyTmXxGrKjOEdZF3ErhMUrc2p7o6osm0cjWzWiH6g/s5472/NP_18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWTkzBND6WvfgLvXuri5XnqJgXf8XAwL9bNC7_gCtgEKfH1OnogocveVEDu8la4OhNebRPdhyphenhyphenru4VndmIwgcVwBy5HiyTSzZD5L9kMEnUebGLqbJs_-VTXLHIkl5Jx5-JSRq0thN1Sl4Gz8ENrSqyTmXxGrKjOEdZF3ErhMUrc2p7o6osm0cjWzWiH6g/s320/NP_18.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Then the roll is whip stitched to the inside of the sleeve, catching the outer edge of the cartridge pleats at wide intervals.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWST4tkcoa4sxEU3V4jwWb6aaORRnPm3gXtBa6Rq32U4FkrplvpOSIHusuSH3kRDHtCx1DOcwi9k8c_vWIIFnSWOLW3kHU_dQj907HCamb6CBiI0ewJl2vMlALd8qL5yOdjmkxu9yxYSsOHVbkAEE-3FaXCUfNsEXu7Gp_xxpn5EQ4iK-VHn3YsMbY0A/s3023/IMG_2866.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3001" data-original-width="3023" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWST4tkcoa4sxEU3V4jwWb6aaORRnPm3gXtBa6Rq32U4FkrplvpOSIHusuSH3kRDHtCx1DOcwi9k8c_vWIIFnSWOLW3kHU_dQj907HCamb6CBiI0ewJl2vMlALd8qL5yOdjmkxu9yxYSsOHVbkAEE-3FaXCUfNsEXu7Gp_xxpn5EQ4iK-VHn3YsMbY0A/s320/IMG_2866.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOqO3uZChpxNjOZZOZbTpGDZyyVqeb0DrJjXJnChWD8FaJl6rukTfxKSkd35oiQV38CnS07EERtNufaPChDEGANatUrvk-ErLuYIyIiDM6UmI8aO8hjTsKoz7aKPnHaJ8S3ABm-GYiaZtVGUd6oGe_HLQK4F2YtVuSJ6jjPVZwBTaHo9rXU0h9EsHTmR4/s3278/IMG_2872.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3278" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOqO3uZChpxNjOZZOZbTpGDZyyVqeb0DrJjXJnChWD8FaJl6rukTfxKSkd35oiQV38CnS07EERtNufaPChDEGANatUrvk-ErLuYIyIiDM6UmI8aO8hjTsKoz7aKPnHaJ8S3ABm-GYiaZtVGUd6oGe_HLQK4F2YtVuSJ6jjPVZwBTaHo9rXU0h9EsHTmR4/s320/IMG_2872.jpeg" width="295" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">A comparison with and without the roll certainly shows a difference. So rolls it is!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYjKxb2rkLp6bXSlF3Pdwj5qnPyhnHQiKmCFzqGAKhQCSbdrzxISh6BKcXfZhT0DUvCihpNPgx3yhroloY-Ak-nn_eABfQDaFDYjFCObpCfDAmgnCfm3Czd53OSJJjfTmhtKwZH0U1GA64cULsjUmN0TLEbfG9az884IOiZlOJoW10L3xMC6eXqFIfyM/s2312/148EB9EC-D43B-4BD7-A9AC-1BA815D0EFA4.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2312" data-original-width="2093" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYjKxb2rkLp6bXSlF3Pdwj5qnPyhnHQiKmCFzqGAKhQCSbdrzxISh6BKcXfZhT0DUvCihpNPgx3yhroloY-Ak-nn_eABfQDaFDYjFCObpCfDAmgnCfm3Czd53OSJJjfTmhtKwZH0U1GA64cULsjUmN0TLEbfG9az884IOiZlOJoW10L3xMC6eXqFIfyM/s320/148EB9EC-D43B-4BD7-A9AC-1BA815D0EFA4.jpeg" width="290" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZk2hFlxzErs9Z6hEkpOFO6X7TOIWz0KgBZIyxqbJE7WKCFYTKGh4M1Hklv2GBN_bg00HUMXmaZe4bcD_F2ACtBdRnk0-I07B_x-SghHPWTmLBgp_F6x2jtz_0t9gVTeqYdQ82oCLoH8sUXmSNTYL0lSP4LRsVCHBmTyKfpo-bhkskFIsZgt5aauBIodw/s3257/77439868-8FA1-4D1C-A3C9-3009720E871E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3257" data-original-width="2344" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZk2hFlxzErs9Z6hEkpOFO6X7TOIWz0KgBZIyxqbJE7WKCFYTKGh4M1Hklv2GBN_bg00HUMXmaZe4bcD_F2ACtBdRnk0-I07B_x-SghHPWTmLBgp_F6x2jtz_0t9gVTeqYdQ82oCLoH8sUXmSNTYL0lSP4LRsVCHBmTyKfpo-bhkskFIsZgt5aauBIodw/s320/77439868-8FA1-4D1C-A3C9-3009720E871E.jpeg" width="230" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">However, the bones are also looking very noticeable, so I decide to remove the lower one.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI2ftxeaeqfLdOy5vplDUk7aF0bbI4jXLJ8MWd7XPV1eGTQXvex4hm7iD3bxzlBhc5vQSqFAuw9Q3kaPr0UKxUWnXUOLIVrVZNtXLlqCBUHQIF2rC6rU19FOTuKpdlFUHOKwhUHogxmRS7G5-kZd6Yn50wu22TP2fKM8dNXqwZOVmGhefIWfvKnZIUmio/s1259/90F77AED-80C3-4E0B-8779-8692A8619A86.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1233" data-original-width="1259" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI2ftxeaeqfLdOy5vplDUk7aF0bbI4jXLJ8MWd7XPV1eGTQXvex4hm7iD3bxzlBhc5vQSqFAuw9Q3kaPr0UKxUWnXUOLIVrVZNtXLlqCBUHQIF2rC6rU19FOTuKpdlFUHOKwhUHogxmRS7G5-kZd6Yn50wu22TP2fKM8dNXqwZOVmGhefIWfvKnZIUmio/s320/90F77AED-80C3-4E0B-8779-8692A8619A86.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGHLFMqGhlp4_FOQmauuIlAduyxs7BhUEBsk2Tu4DYV17WhPJkeuaX88mww2Gr8Gz7d6e78jOmwEYHTR73bVDDlkSHgqKSkzLMK-kYbgRz2h5IZZ5g_BkNyjrezc1kkRvGIdqRwdNhrPZGE2Kkyj-fi_FicBtsSZw0TL8GP8cqVc3Z7-BrfOD656_FSo8/s1282/89326C21-CCB0-4E17-A3DD-5EC6583F6FCC.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1039" data-original-width="1282" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGHLFMqGhlp4_FOQmauuIlAduyxs7BhUEBsk2Tu4DYV17WhPJkeuaX88mww2Gr8Gz7d6e78jOmwEYHTR73bVDDlkSHgqKSkzLMK-kYbgRz2h5IZZ5g_BkNyjrezc1kkRvGIdqRwdNhrPZGE2Kkyj-fi_FicBtsSZw0TL8GP8cqVc3Z7-BrfOD656_FSo8/s320/89326C21-CCB0-4E17-A3DD-5EC6583F6FCC.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Finally the sleeve cuffs are finished and the gown is hemmed (In this case, bound with wool tape).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzX9kdbbqRnblyKx1kzhbSMharZlow0GgZXruOpqNyFvtxKFUNaC9CHUJU89rk8br7AY_mzlpSS0yU2m4oeQ56GNFSfGS3M9G6avF1-jO2RUxaDpMXHKfwbw7SWBbjU9W9AohZGyjOD1Wjvn6RrMvrnrOBQ8iA3XHVRdRpBu2rFQ1VBBtF_kJ8Ioh5ulg/s3068/IMG_2859.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2422" data-original-width="3068" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzX9kdbbqRnblyKx1kzhbSMharZlow0GgZXruOpqNyFvtxKFUNaC9CHUJU89rk8br7AY_mzlpSS0yU2m4oeQ56GNFSfGS3M9G6avF1-jO2RUxaDpMXHKfwbw7SWBbjU9W9AohZGyjOD1Wjvn6RrMvrnrOBQ8iA3XHVRdRpBu2rFQ1VBBtF_kJ8Ioh5ulg/s320/IMG_2859.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggqvDdMDUEAqWGLJWJMG1CIxEQYTRwlPtdcuBcH8CFb_tWo1GVm5s4PA6gTss3GC6X2cwaeTP-oPHHQ2By3Le-8-eUlOgmfQZktj5f4v-3POkxpwUP7lRob1oy9sa-L_wqwK3rP274bs5K5Rl_rhtku7HYpsl3qDI3OWDt0ovcj1U87cm2IafXDofLgtU/s2118/IMG_2863.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2118" data-original-width="1684" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggqvDdMDUEAqWGLJWJMG1CIxEQYTRwlPtdcuBcH8CFb_tWo1GVm5s4PA6gTss3GC6X2cwaeTP-oPHHQ2By3Le-8-eUlOgmfQZktj5f4v-3POkxpwUP7lRob1oy9sa-L_wqwK3rP274bs5K5Rl_rhtku7HYpsl3qDI3OWDt0ovcj1U87cm2IafXDofLgtU/s320/IMG_2863.jpeg" width="254" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">With the gown done it's time to move on to the accessories.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Now, despite the fact that I had originally settled on a gathered dickey/chemisette, I decide to experiment with pleats instead.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">It's sometimes hard to tell with 16th.c English portraiture what is stylized and what is meant to be a literal representation, but to me there seemed to be a definite difference in contemporary images between unstructured gathers...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-MFkWR7A1heqb55o-XoTkGnhRbLELSHnsfG_jHDKeGXqj-Hc00k34O_WFzLo-RN5Vk0vXfwk4eLCWPueWI9zq3Z7U46Lwu41ciBmlue8sdurAyHuc_2TbxW5EvMXI2_KOAigQl92if-6-TJ9n2LImfFeogdvMH7utkDUW-0Jw1AWvaBD1QZfd5oA-1h4/s500/3CD9CD4E-510D-44B7-A28E-7C73CF316D73.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="364" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-MFkWR7A1heqb55o-XoTkGnhRbLELSHnsfG_jHDKeGXqj-Hc00k34O_WFzLo-RN5Vk0vXfwk4eLCWPueWI9zq3Z7U46Lwu41ciBmlue8sdurAyHuc_2TbxW5EvMXI2_KOAigQl92if-6-TJ9n2LImfFeogdvMH7utkDUW-0Jw1AWvaBD1QZfd5oA-1h4/s320/3CD9CD4E-510D-44B7-A28E-7C73CF316D73.jpeg" width="233" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...and more regular, vertical pleats.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTer5n6OMpFszzxJ09K_OgUBrsRTOdif_GDK1byiiKIkpV374bxvSg14ZinJ1W0OkQywYNZx1Us2V1V0i7fg20tNXkmtKXEi5CvqmTHrmob9ovUyuE5HINa1sLgDh-Sv4BIdHgCkROw9qsYXYHlOgSwo2b-IqOSqAsHBZF3nNZlGiwErU2W2E_LhaBPw/s1199/John_Dunch_and_his_nurse_Elizabeth_Field.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="962" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTer5n6OMpFszzxJ09K_OgUBrsRTOdif_GDK1byiiKIkpV374bxvSg14ZinJ1W0OkQywYNZx1Us2V1V0i7fg20tNXkmtKXEi5CvqmTHrmob9ovUyuE5HINa1sLgDh-Sv4BIdHgCkROw9qsYXYHlOgSwo2b-IqOSqAsHBZF3nNZlGiwErU2W2E_LhaBPw/w321-h400/John_Dunch_and_his_nurse_Elizabeth_Field.jpg" width="321" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I might have chalked it up to artistic choice in the Dunch portrait, except that this portrait and subsequent tomb monument of Elizabeth Cooke, Lady Russel (died1609) seemed to show something similar</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2YRRpHL989AQPuv4WfnLkQH6P9eroqyCcOLaUxlp8bZNC3Ip9OwFVYgGd9b2rbGRCdF49W7UeSZaUZmsBoUx93dSJZ9TtgE7O-qhL8v3a7uaar9Q3XOYIrC_9sGrkDcHFHhmzRi6__4/s1600/17c7e42077b3d3918bca3f319dce7771.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2YRRpHL989AQPuv4WfnLkQH6P9eroqyCcOLaUxlp8bZNC3Ip9OwFVYgGd9b2rbGRCdF49W7UeSZaUZmsBoUx93dSJZ9TtgE7O-qhL8v3a7uaar9Q3XOYIrC_9sGrkDcHFHhmzRi6__4/s320/17c7e42077b3d3918bca3f319dce7771.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTx-8EB3CwguhIjnwV7Mu0paipOW5cFrIevFOJvCWGZNW_D1PJXEyAoO_fo0omrw_LW06gtvKNRchMPAT7oF-AIfy2o_bhsP-1obd7Yu244PQkqSfL4KI_WfC4DorxT9u_Zr4ZKjW4Mi8/s1600/lady_hoby.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTx-8EB3CwguhIjnwV7Mu0paipOW5cFrIevFOJvCWGZNW_D1PJXEyAoO_fo0omrw_LW06gtvKNRchMPAT7oF-AIfy2o_bhsP-1obd7Yu244PQkqSfL4KI_WfC4DorxT9u_Zr4ZKjW4Mi8/s320/lady_hoby.jpg" width="268" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKRv_LcpzUSvW9QdZ_e6P4PfagGtzqRc_C5LCT5Mu2wm-3B88cC4DImYoNe2UipQhaPZFQF4WEWMET4C2yG9Mct-ls3jPWBhFzJHlU6OUjjIkIfsRNYqLEfj76cgNbYLeuTwmxlsNw7Q/s1600/375617ec761564e77cb087490e71e043.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKRv_LcpzUSvW9QdZ_e6P4PfagGtzqRc_C5LCT5Mu2wm-3B88cC4DImYoNe2UipQhaPZFQF4WEWMET4C2yG9Mct-ls3jPWBhFzJHlU6OUjjIkIfsRNYqLEfj76cgNbYLeuTwmxlsNw7Q/s320/375617ec761564e77cb087490e71e043.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So I whip up a linen test-square with knife pleats, sewn to a linen base.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDQRiG6Lz8n_V0MyuXxOq_SzcvmC_pfhxa13ZjKgYP0P8nwqnnF31kNcFmBfpgF9BjGuX2MY0JQJzu7-hfL9m8Y33pUP_HGDkmC4hNCwMvoNfiDw8sUWxOq2HollbftuBoAfXMizbzo_08GEuperhHlk24YIk2V54UyvDVOQze2vrqMfHwihc1uMv363c/s3053/D66F1831-5564-4F7F-935C-1764068AEF25.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3053" data-original-width="2446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDQRiG6Lz8n_V0MyuXxOq_SzcvmC_pfhxa13ZjKgYP0P8nwqnnF31kNcFmBfpgF9BjGuX2MY0JQJzu7-hfL9m8Y33pUP_HGDkmC4hNCwMvoNfiDw8sUWxOq2HollbftuBoAfXMizbzo_08GEuperhHlk24YIk2V54UyvDVOQze2vrqMfHwihc1uMv363c/s320/D66F1831-5564-4F7F-935C-1764068AEF25.jpeg" width="256" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And then steamed the pleats a bit with the iron to encourage them to floof up a bit.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdJUQEuWV83L1hgmDmXZQ6Dn5vQJbFMw6tS3zqwBAlFPbSHDJlBa9929r7UCwVQ51tX-Hjg1bvIkQHAsyayl4ztYH1-8TnMyThMv9PSR19nIhjBiWgv70Nq1vAQxMshUWAV44gNzXMnGezFID4Hp3y7PUgYTayE3-T25uDd2Skb5j3HL3vR22VWVaTmXg/s2625/0957C687-1263-44F7-A0A7-8DEFABEB5F04.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2625" data-original-width="2405" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdJUQEuWV83L1hgmDmXZQ6Dn5vQJbFMw6tS3zqwBAlFPbSHDJlBa9929r7UCwVQ51tX-Hjg1bvIkQHAsyayl4ztYH1-8TnMyThMv9PSR19nIhjBiWgv70Nq1vAQxMshUWAV44gNzXMnGezFID4Hp3y7PUgYTayE3-T25uDd2Skb5j3HL3vR22VWVaTmXg/s320/0957C687-1263-44F7-A0A7-8DEFABEB5F04.jpeg" width="293" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Happy with the results, a pleated dickey is made up.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The front in made up of two pieces (I had originally contemplated a front opening) with the peats running towards the center.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The back pieces intended to tie under the bust and the excess font length can be tucked under a petticoat or bodice point or folded and pinned into a 'V'.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIrBxFXErNBCBMpYAc4yoHjDrJkfsP318EfBYFKYrYMdhaYraYraMw5BYFgYFN6Yq5LKt5V0M3gX8Ujpd2nCdOkYvc49yirD0ikGCq3f1PUglTraqA5_LN-Tov23UqJcHBsetjwOuVIQWSBJnt2Bl7qMvHHhwvRMZFV7FefB7okr8uAmH054z9OooqOsc/s3807/9E352F7A-179D-4743-AB31-ABB7F30F087B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3807" data-original-width="2795" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIrBxFXErNBCBMpYAc4yoHjDrJkfsP318EfBYFKYrYMdhaYraYraMw5BYFgYFN6Yq5LKt5V0M3gX8Ujpd2nCdOkYvc49yirD0ikGCq3f1PUglTraqA5_LN-Tov23UqJcHBsetjwOuVIQWSBJnt2Bl7qMvHHhwvRMZFV7FefB7okr8uAmH054z9OooqOsc/s320/9E352F7A-179D-4743-AB31-ABB7F30F087B.jpeg" width="235" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb_1AVcu7V-6i7fvZ3tvjX7FFx2kTaS1kTztvnDG5OVWzjY1kg2_v0CAZ6_90WjJgGpmA6NYNsuZBvZlV_OKeg724RRep0rVbaeeQPajwdBEhnEP1QllzWS6MEuVleyIcQhlh4rADeLqQLGG5yjmoKorMWdZgeYp4_Ae4GYfc_ReomEtT_w67uTmvizwY/s3748/891768B9-F1DB-46D1-97BB-B0E84D143F9D.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3748" data-original-width="2590" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb_1AVcu7V-6i7fvZ3tvjX7FFx2kTaS1kTztvnDG5OVWzjY1kg2_v0CAZ6_90WjJgGpmA6NYNsuZBvZlV_OKeg724RRep0rVbaeeQPajwdBEhnEP1QllzWS6MEuVleyIcQhlh4rADeLqQLGG5yjmoKorMWdZgeYp4_Ae4GYfc_ReomEtT_w67uTmvizwY/s320/891768B9-F1DB-46D1-97BB-B0E84D143F9D.jpeg" width="221" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Other accessories include a black linen petticoat (I really need a wool one, but this will do in the meantime).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHFxJav_R7Wa2dxEr-XrAlHWjtiVIINRGLViwQVTTPjn0KE1BQ9X60v9gZRDCvQpYP8I4OiUDsUuC7NLz7wlbvPDq69qKK1JOlyebFhznIEJzRjWleXTJWxAJK8OLOXYODnmwyyblVcI/s1600/petticoat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHFxJav_R7Wa2dxEr-XrAlHWjtiVIINRGLViwQVTTPjn0KE1BQ9X60v9gZRDCvQpYP8I4OiUDsUuC7NLz7wlbvPDq69qKK1JOlyebFhznIEJzRjWleXTJWxAJK8OLOXYODnmwyyblVcI/w226-h400/petticoat.jpg" width="226" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My linen pair o'bodies.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm5dt-0O3JQRgafuYDL6Zl88iJI7D2WL41FlveWssj61uNuO3gtwcE4C2E7Pv2yltTQoLfGx98jCWGKvoElel8wI1RMvuLnaVoFhdLKtcFdSvSe34LclpIzI6DHK1OeTpOCgSjzaFy_px1eHe9rY-PQSemoV7iCqjoaqqtPcbdVkjn9rRcC36uV0ZGU4s/s1457/B18C8756-14B5-4417-BCAE-BC183FE9C354.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1423" data-original-width="1457" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm5dt-0O3JQRgafuYDL6Zl88iJI7D2WL41FlveWssj61uNuO3gtwcE4C2E7Pv2yltTQoLfGx98jCWGKvoElel8wI1RMvuLnaVoFhdLKtcFdSvSe34LclpIzI6DHK1OeTpOCgSjzaFy_px1eHe9rY-PQSemoV7iCqjoaqqtPcbdVkjn9rRcC36uV0ZGU4s/s320/B18C8756-14B5-4417-BCAE-BC183FE9C354.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZG1AIzq-X8twHeTGecUwC7L6HhL8ui_lvf3FYnFIunxLelutFrZh9Qwvm0eh8xA8R0U6DokNTj934Csg9_d5L9vpUPMhx1xM2tNAYP5PFgR-_0eIF2eHZ7oAN4a6RqUlSZH2fOY99m2FTmSznQ886uQ3zHWxW8z30Y0DBLEifoVvX49m9iotnRxfcyY/s1714/27BBF14D-34C8-4FD1-A129-006D1A9E2152.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1383" data-original-width="1714" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZG1AIzq-X8twHeTGecUwC7L6HhL8ui_lvf3FYnFIunxLelutFrZh9Qwvm0eh8xA8R0U6DokNTj934Csg9_d5L9vpUPMhx1xM2tNAYP5PFgR-_0eIF2eHZ7oAN4a6RqUlSZH2fOY99m2FTmSznQ886uQ3zHWxW8z30Y0DBLEifoVvX49m9iotnRxfcyY/s320/27BBF14D-34C8-4FD1-A129-006D1A9E2152.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A large linen ruff; 4.25" wide set with 2" sets (made with 2.8oz linen).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiArJFRtWCU4khqf_cl1AGQD9PnLOgWVaox2eJqfXVukTUW530RiQx2L2w2I4b-xU8Ho88N0Wbxk4J8CEd97yuqGyIl7-pAuUlD9dYh5cUWmDdT3bM2tpfbwpdEfpaxddGzhQvwiekCAVCt4taeuEWo_CzPDNL3jKJtWcnwqsTZMaeDE3x31li5sOLpqD0/s3732/IMG_2838.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2837" data-original-width="3732" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiArJFRtWCU4khqf_cl1AGQD9PnLOgWVaox2eJqfXVukTUW530RiQx2L2w2I4b-xU8Ho88N0Wbxk4J8CEd97yuqGyIl7-pAuUlD9dYh5cUWmDdT3bM2tpfbwpdEfpaxddGzhQvwiekCAVCt4taeuEWo_CzPDNL3jKJtWcnwqsTZMaeDE3x31li5sOLpqD0/s320/IMG_2838.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjVH5x_iWpXqWVRmCix3VSxOR8xdS6s10QRol9Bnas3Ge9-ZE2OJqarktvKEuXXy03BEJ-t8rgPX37PifU3-l5OYT8SlybmGQdgr9FaLGJ77qxCuYgSI8impXnVasYAYWQBmJAOcvJtKq0fth0ytyaLyFSAG5tuIWDiE7LX5fBmsbiuv911bcTR7COgxM/s1903/IMG_2834.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1875" data-original-width="1903" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjVH5x_iWpXqWVRmCix3VSxOR8xdS6s10QRol9Bnas3Ge9-ZE2OJqarktvKEuXXy03BEJ-t8rgPX37PifU3-l5OYT8SlybmGQdgr9FaLGJ77qxCuYgSI8impXnVasYAYWQBmJAOcvJtKq0fth0ytyaLyFSAG5tuIWDiE7LX5fBmsbiuv911bcTR7COgxM/s320/IMG_2834.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> A pair of linen cuffs.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkJNVlZR-OfOYL4rId7X5FUI92DqHAb4sTJ-smTjzWSP6gCfwrky4CyEx-glsh6wXbnIxpJrxCUv4S717rcRBVdcXLjXegrpe_Fl9G2uCuRqrAB4aRhOhCKNF2kR4o9Dv0LcphM4D8Rs-tIgFrY3TZUVzPY_VEoGXYSZWMGPJqAT2ldSE29F2vrb-uygU/s3998/BC8964E3-FC13-4DB9-B881-41425F7B956B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2759" data-original-width="3998" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkJNVlZR-OfOYL4rId7X5FUI92DqHAb4sTJ-smTjzWSP6gCfwrky4CyEx-glsh6wXbnIxpJrxCUv4S717rcRBVdcXLjXegrpe_Fl9G2uCuRqrAB4aRhOhCKNF2kR4o9Dv0LcphM4D8Rs-tIgFrY3TZUVzPY_VEoGXYSZWMGPJqAT2ldSE29F2vrb-uygU/s320/BC8964E3-FC13-4DB9-B881-41425F7B956B.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Xa6XC-A5uEFk27TXbwKgeM8q7QHnbROrNWgUOsS0fw87-JfTRZ2eWktKWAYnXRxdpmH2LLg5GIGxrWgUCfDrSbRF51J5ltpPJDSdm4IxbIVoAuj2qEuRZU8AZ4z9Gdebd_xNjGuUtRbuTKi1GmfiFws-9cFFPnYLFmboybSgg9d3rrru0-STjwGUxy8/s2961/9C23142B-3320-4549-B921-8F3362338614.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2961" data-original-width="2899" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Xa6XC-A5uEFk27TXbwKgeM8q7QHnbROrNWgUOsS0fw87-JfTRZ2eWktKWAYnXRxdpmH2LLg5GIGxrWgUCfDrSbRF51J5ltpPJDSdm4IxbIVoAuj2qEuRZU8AZ4z9Gdebd_xNjGuUtRbuTKi1GmfiFws-9cFFPnYLFmboybSgg9d3rrru0-STjwGUxy8/s320/9C23142B-3320-4549-B921-8F3362338614.jpeg" width="313" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My trusty white coif with tiny lace trim.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTDtiWnmOCJh2zKqOATdVwhLpOklefEptssCY2fmX8FSXyM5jQ8NjJDy57ZnQzNtDCKN9OZfsJMY5jZXaI3hG7elxYGFPOz8_tjkbx3vMzLpPplpg7uVCYspOw5bAU8rWElP-xvpMXTHKwe-PaomY3zViuzyDx-hOj-AnmvKQLS1qVCouUPD6DgEiE4ew/s2048/coif.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1740" data-original-width="2048" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTDtiWnmOCJh2zKqOATdVwhLpOklefEptssCY2fmX8FSXyM5jQ8NjJDy57ZnQzNtDCKN9OZfsJMY5jZXaI3hG7elxYGFPOz8_tjkbx3vMzLpPplpg7uVCYspOw5bAU8rWElP-xvpMXTHKwe-PaomY3zViuzyDx-hOj-AnmvKQLS1qVCouUPD6DgEiE4ew/s320/coif.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A black silk sash/belt.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZA205DalS5juWmEBswfT5b8vtNEmhtfWcT1C0FgnaVH7lh61ToOF1EGMAO4QKHOYBE6wnt2N0x8H_ZHZ9k4rBiKz2ADb0RyPC0rNkkaOy9E_HhuuPNOKpUbtz_Iximmwbfp0uw1yKAbGXaduCJDitUNEZYkyVvkbfEmfvpc8_sShPIW-BPxFCNco278/s3407/IMG_2874.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3407" data-original-width="2960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyZA205DalS5juWmEBswfT5b8vtNEmhtfWcT1C0FgnaVH7lh61ToOF1EGMAO4QKHOYBE6wnt2N0x8H_ZHZ9k4rBiKz2ADb0RyPC0rNkkaOy9E_HhuuPNOKpUbtz_Iximmwbfp0uw1yKAbGXaduCJDitUNEZYkyVvkbfEmfvpc8_sShPIW-BPxFCNco278/s320/IMG_2874.jpeg" width="278" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And a pleated white linen apron. It's a large linen rectangle, aprox 39x30", pleated down to 9" at the waist. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwCO4suQW7g_MM89MueBCheTgPgk2ukTeeEXVijKCG5eXufb2aKFDaJujrkX1BAuLE_BKL5Nj-_rToQsh1tz4SQIiU0exzByO1hDq-rNFULzGM5vkBAAY3A0kFZexA_58Qofwkz9HWa0jUrJ9kDpHgbkwvRZnQ-SVDVt7L9fHxbp3FptBDvCOAGyvSInE/s3054/IMG_2841.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3054" data-original-width="2161" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwCO4suQW7g_MM89MueBCheTgPgk2ukTeeEXVijKCG5eXufb2aKFDaJujrkX1BAuLE_BKL5Nj-_rToQsh1tz4SQIiU0exzByO1hDq-rNFULzGM5vkBAAY3A0kFZexA_58Qofwkz9HWa0jUrJ9kDpHgbkwvRZnQ-SVDVt7L9fHxbp3FptBDvCOAGyvSInE/w283-h400/IMG_2841.jpeg" width="283" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizcOoLxxhxXlAbyLqrYcmkOV0UlDXyXcz2nx3Cd29ZsL3DwNfaGUOWF9bfVSRuw4a8ifevpu7_tS5zPjbJ17nktuddpyIPzSY90pxJcNALC5dQcm9AVq3U0sW5h5hV9J__edbzZUkcOmOaUiG-eRKnnXUQ9wzffU18QxyyI29dWMK1i4eWpY6E1_ZJBWM/s2329/IMG_2847.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1532" data-original-width="2329" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizcOoLxxhxXlAbyLqrYcmkOV0UlDXyXcz2nx3Cd29ZsL3DwNfaGUOWF9bfVSRuw4a8ifevpu7_tS5zPjbJ17nktuddpyIPzSY90pxJcNALC5dQcm9AVq3U0sW5h5hV9J__edbzZUkcOmOaUiG-eRKnnXUQ9wzffU18QxyyI29dWMK1i4eWpY6E1_ZJBWM/s320/IMG_2847.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4yRbtOXqcloVL1CV2YvQwn8Wll9Vvs5TW4_4uWuOT1IlfAruAl0BiLd5SEydPDeEg0cKfLEkAJstliSILdqI31Y2jrgT2-omaJ_blE2Aktja6g0TnBxNlPspEiFNflm3GuXBF7ZPKkEo0PhdCFLY0x_B_rSpNaqdsep-vVAko6wN1VnZvCksTBRamCyk/s3047/IMG_2856.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3047" data-original-width="2674" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4yRbtOXqcloVL1CV2YvQwn8Wll9Vvs5TW4_4uWuOT1IlfAruAl0BiLd5SEydPDeEg0cKfLEkAJstliSILdqI31Y2jrgT2-omaJ_blE2Aktja6g0TnBxNlPspEiFNflm3GuXBF7ZPKkEo0PhdCFLY0x_B_rSpNaqdsep-vVAko6wN1VnZvCksTBRamCyk/s320/IMG_2856.jpeg" width="281" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, the big one…A GIANT-ASS HAT!!!! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Surprisingly, this ended up being most difficult piece to source. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I ended up commissioning a few hats from excellent milliners, and while they were absolutely stunning they didn't <i>quite</i> fit proportionally with the silhouette I was trying to recreate.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">However they will be prefect for some other projects that have been on my "To-Do" list for a while.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">*cough* Ester Inglis* cough*.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4F3Cyync5bgbnoHgplp0WqqgD7wGTn2yFeAJufvrJ0hzu1JW8U73t3gHlMw8Yl_rW4h8uLgICOx0YIhrE6aX4gqxQK54txiz8aPHiSTade5e39baKB0HQmPNiTnZjxYyQREqh0TGU-wDo8NIVIKN0kWcwprHs_m8tIztpK5Z1js5cFX1Kf_b8-J_UfMk/s538/Esther%20Inglis.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="538" data-original-width="450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4F3Cyync5bgbnoHgplp0WqqgD7wGTn2yFeAJufvrJ0hzu1JW8U73t3gHlMw8Yl_rW4h8uLgICOx0YIhrE6aX4gqxQK54txiz8aPHiSTade5e39baKB0HQmPNiTnZjxYyQREqh0TGU-wDo8NIVIKN0kWcwprHs_m8tIztpK5Z1js5cFX1Kf_b8-J_UfMk/s320/Esther%20Inglis.jpg" width="268" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So I decided to take a stab at blocking my own hat.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Sort of...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Going through my closet, I found this old cowboy hat that had roughly the right brim shape for I was trying to achieve (clearly I had bought it and some point for some random project and completely forgot about it. Thanks, past me!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEbZQZ-3VIMM4pqdfnFXCZvUYCIahb9dbX_wxsR_L5V8aHyZo4WfDFBSp4l2bZYRUhI6CbJFU9i_h_n5JqzGxa3-jPs4ZRTwlv8PAAg84ZV_6TixL1eJmVDNGw9BBu802wqxyB9TmtL2lV-D5iXa-jWAg9edmMmAfoUad_8PcPwQRsFqUdvLx8L5dr4GQ/s3007/28E9E85A-C397-48DC-AECD-93C305BED171.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3007" data-original-width="2446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEbZQZ-3VIMM4pqdfnFXCZvUYCIahb9dbX_wxsR_L5V8aHyZo4WfDFBSp4l2bZYRUhI6CbJFU9i_h_n5JqzGxa3-jPs4ZRTwlv8PAAg84ZV_6TixL1eJmVDNGw9BBu802wqxyB9TmtL2lV-D5iXa-jWAg9edmMmAfoUad_8PcPwQRsFqUdvLx8L5dr4GQ/s320/28E9E85A-C397-48DC-AECD-93C305BED171.jpeg" width="260" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJOyPV-hWtSlBWiVA25GibvPHEiKzkQIxrkqc5x2nWGMUGxpUXgcZ1ukkALK6ga87pSaE7t16oPSe9NoaS8zAX4_3HjmNg3593RAHHx7bYQwwRhXqZoU5CKXrTvKRAC5x6cCFVeyT_U9X8ZlrkZZO6OElFcyv3eYA3xAVIcJkTZGSa78JAwopJVIqS7MQ/s4032/C5CAFEA7-B896-4DFA-B412-E60335863FD4.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJOyPV-hWtSlBWiVA25GibvPHEiKzkQIxrkqc5x2nWGMUGxpUXgcZ1ukkALK6ga87pSaE7t16oPSe9NoaS8zAX4_3HjmNg3593RAHHx7bYQwwRhXqZoU5CKXrTvKRAC5x6cCFVeyT_U9X8ZlrkZZO6OElFcyv3eYA3xAVIcJkTZGSa78JAwopJVIqS7MQ/s320/C5CAFEA7-B896-4DFA-B412-E60335863FD4.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I thought about trying to stretch the crown out but didn't want to risk ruining the brim in the process.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So instead I bought a felt hat blank to experiment with.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuEudq5nWi6wxWU-RlTKtl5u5EU2RXa4gYa4AHQxprPiyiV8Z3WptFyWDqRdJCXRweaSZlf137VYaKvjOgTfE5H8RhUopU5cmKA4ZsLHiEp-wGv6zVSLLnJAoImlBDoOsRpI2eOe3VXqz6ibub4k1kMu7cMRt6x60k9bAK2bhiYZN-MjGAK2hnUJChTUw/s2556/0E544F45-C555-4291-BB50-E0BBC89A07D6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2556" data-original-width="2443" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuEudq5nWi6wxWU-RlTKtl5u5EU2RXa4gYa4AHQxprPiyiV8Z3WptFyWDqRdJCXRweaSZlf137VYaKvjOgTfE5H8RhUopU5cmKA4ZsLHiEp-wGv6zVSLLnJAoImlBDoOsRpI2eOe3VXqz6ibub4k1kMu7cMRt6x60k9bAK2bhiYZN-MjGAK2hnUJChTUw/s320/0E544F45-C555-4291-BB50-E0BBC89A07D6.jpeg" width="306" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4IcQnNpnwt6T3NjThx4liW2OQLyDG3-4cxYSlzH6-WM8pno9-CMCaAAnofx2UFBDyyMCJ_bSySFRdGcba6ZqT70h6tKJ2hmKlNUB0hACrtC5-hBPCUTZ55cEA5ypc12pKVa9iYA3tQSAKN8qCI-7PIQJFEN31r8JO8beqmVTHBlxMDVj9tl7VZ6cacZQ/s3803/CB1F49FC-3894-442B-8FE0-37ED9798C65A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3803" data-original-width="2759" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4IcQnNpnwt6T3NjThx4liW2OQLyDG3-4cxYSlzH6-WM8pno9-CMCaAAnofx2UFBDyyMCJ_bSySFRdGcba6ZqT70h6tKJ2hmKlNUB0hACrtC5-hBPCUTZ55cEA5ypc12pKVa9iYA3tQSAKN8qCI-7PIQJFEN31r8JO8beqmVTHBlxMDVj9tl7VZ6cacZQ/s320/CB1F49FC-3894-442B-8FE0-37ED9798C65A.jpeg" width="232" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But first I needed a block.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I had lucked out years ago and found a series of millinery blocks at an antique store in Canada.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV8PB2ns-Mk-iFkMoOIqtbdQo_2rkuVI5EDVDaXlVSWPnB1RhJrduzzgKo6MNpC0WmIRYGh9-lLRsY4zRukTDnyfPBFaagC06NZ4pHc1wsoiDbYYiqoTaaMwWvPDCujySYezFIFguJ0iAieNhlXpsdjq_-8qJyq7-hcDD7B-xqkW8cnUzDVz2Y62Kq_Bs/s3187/3ED0034A-0F91-4C59-ADB6-5B2BA96614DA.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1689" data-original-width="3187" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV8PB2ns-Mk-iFkMoOIqtbdQo_2rkuVI5EDVDaXlVSWPnB1RhJrduzzgKo6MNpC0WmIRYGh9-lLRsY4zRukTDnyfPBFaagC06NZ4pHc1wsoiDbYYiqoTaaMwWvPDCujySYezFIFguJ0iAieNhlXpsdjq_-8qJyq7-hcDD7B-xqkW8cnUzDVz2Y62Kq_Bs/w640-h340/3ED0034A-0F91-4C59-ADB6-5B2BA96614DA.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It just needed a domed top. I thought about trying to make one from foam, but then lucked out AGAIN and found a fascinator block on Etsy with the exact right circumference for the tallest block.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-z4FllY0CSQtPg1IjplLHe9pzXn8qaaoSW_y-HBAQNW1XrTNiAOAZJa5KXWcpsBtJ_sZPlUSMzldhiOklgDB1Yt0b29-XVVRai2Yj3RDw8jdATmYE1-HpChjgaQjSSEKBwrInMBdi9VfESuewVSpQHc2eX111gfMhJkrkNsvhfyCw52Ry6GtY_bhhVKE/s3165/B6ADD4DD-08EB-42AF-BA17-D7540B04852D.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3165" data-original-width="2664" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-z4FllY0CSQtPg1IjplLHe9pzXn8qaaoSW_y-HBAQNW1XrTNiAOAZJa5KXWcpsBtJ_sZPlUSMzldhiOklgDB1Yt0b29-XVVRai2Yj3RDw8jdATmYE1-HpChjgaQjSSEKBwrInMBdi9VfESuewVSpQHc2eX111gfMhJkrkNsvhfyCw52Ry6GtY_bhhVKE/s320/B6ADD4DD-08EB-42AF-BA17-D7540B04852D.jpeg" width="269" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYb3IiTWBmsMup8A6l51QVOTFUFLcVxYLQ50OrpBC38xYHzSiP5qKABRZQqGleGCwTzVjMdGfUskmSPIT4pSZAc6ZUEeMCbtKvBuEccaExMiwgBwRYhbs1sa6KXb89cd0Nk3D3GdZaXpNoeoRJYE5UD1LfLd6DVGiB2cDgrzLDw4ZX7EywKodHSqRRUsA/s3169/FA193213-C7CA-4E31-B602-3809302F89A9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3169" data-original-width="2865" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYb3IiTWBmsMup8A6l51QVOTFUFLcVxYLQ50OrpBC38xYHzSiP5qKABRZQqGleGCwTzVjMdGfUskmSPIT4pSZAc6ZUEeMCbtKvBuEccaExMiwgBwRYhbs1sa6KXb89cd0Nk3D3GdZaXpNoeoRJYE5UD1LfLd6DVGiB2cDgrzLDw4ZX7EywKodHSqRRUsA/s320/FA193213-C7CA-4E31-B602-3809302F89A9.jpeg" width="289" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Taped together, they make the perfect domed block!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So the felt blank is blocked and left to sit for a few days.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpvR_sDTuqsSlVTZnlHwSKo1ofMCPuYp0BOHJfZCSpcjvJ68kXFllWoJHIxgYAJLnbOeXkVjGtwHMA8mqkCCVb6125nSdbC4jV_ZlK0pl9v__x-HdzCxsEA4k1di2XzWhAAMnngPbAE-egfkZcsGV3tJpwZR8AnHKiph2P3_CsDON84MukCI_6xBacnnA/s3851/31D077A1-3E89-46D2-AEE1-24DE6D891EA0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3851" data-original-width="2851" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpvR_sDTuqsSlVTZnlHwSKo1ofMCPuYp0BOHJfZCSpcjvJ68kXFllWoJHIxgYAJLnbOeXkVjGtwHMA8mqkCCVb6125nSdbC4jV_ZlK0pl9v__x-HdzCxsEA4k1di2XzWhAAMnngPbAE-egfkZcsGV3tJpwZR8AnHKiph2P3_CsDON84MukCI_6xBacnnA/w237-h320/31D077A1-3E89-46D2-AEE1-24DE6D891EA0.jpeg" width="237" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdXjK9S0waPcwQHyv5kRckt0K06UpSkBLlh5IaxsvG3eCrC5evUAWNcX09-rThBhl2RKNr5RhAeqi3KT-d-67865HjAtrCsY8Jgm6sFltJynSgbtNohjVQb6Av-cyH1NCg4SDTQd5AJkjI-zkf-Mcc2r4xezivYjfQjBtQvgDLk4G64JYvnuYAKNDL5g0/s3918/57C3FF1C-723F-4301-8B64-81DDF3AF5C32.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3918" data-original-width="2905" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdXjK9S0waPcwQHyv5kRckt0K06UpSkBLlh5IaxsvG3eCrC5evUAWNcX09-rThBhl2RKNr5RhAeqi3KT-d-67865HjAtrCsY8Jgm6sFltJynSgbtNohjVQb6Av-cyH1NCg4SDTQd5AJkjI-zkf-Mcc2r4xezivYjfQjBtQvgDLk4G64JYvnuYAKNDL5g0/s320/57C3FF1C-723F-4301-8B64-81DDF3AF5C32.jpeg" width="237" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The final shape looks good! So I decide to cut the crown off of the cowboy hat and combine the two.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe7s7URbbAbZAsR7MFI1rG0TR29tsv09ByhKg2XEiAnDr-X9wp7FY6SMEG9jcC1KjNPvp0v4of8UNgKJTrC_q4P0cdSyHhkhWcHw-FvOBjibsZX3Aawp3SpQbyUKTpCE9jvmj84hbOfOiZBwPWMrde1ctAhVpujOAD5p-5nilJMNCpOwsB0RSigJXRQvk/s3369/5FE3FBFA-9789-4E41-9DF3-BCF5DFA18232.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3369" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe7s7URbbAbZAsR7MFI1rG0TR29tsv09ByhKg2XEiAnDr-X9wp7FY6SMEG9jcC1KjNPvp0v4of8UNgKJTrC_q4P0cdSyHhkhWcHw-FvOBjibsZX3Aawp3SpQbyUKTpCE9jvmj84hbOfOiZBwPWMrde1ctAhVpujOAD5p-5nilJMNCpOwsB0RSigJXRQvk/s320/5FE3FBFA-9789-4E41-9DF3-BCF5DFA18232.jpeg" width="287" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Not to bad looking! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">At least from the side. The front, on the other hand, is....<i>interesting.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtc2_H5nnMbUfsfnTKkvviIGtczxySn0tpPLvE3LWPYSnbfEAOf0kMhEBZbvEU4WsSu_l3Po2desBMCNhY4IsdPB72h9QFbKXNhXQK-TgjmLS0VbuL1JP5FIfTeY04ctBFFwzbXfUKYltkpJdrYHD14CzTL4BFToo9-BAYUOaFOz1e4Sat5T9crkrliQ/s3913/D0AA47F1-9506-4693-84FC-68285E04721E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3913" data-original-width="2863" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtc2_H5nnMbUfsfnTKkvviIGtczxySn0tpPLvE3LWPYSnbfEAOf0kMhEBZbvEU4WsSu_l3Po2desBMCNhY4IsdPB72h9QFbKXNhXQK-TgjmLS0VbuL1JP5FIfTeY04ctBFFwzbXfUKYltkpJdrYHD14CzTL4BFToo9-BAYUOaFOz1e4Sat5T9crkrliQ/s320/D0AA47F1-9506-4693-84FC-68285E04721E.jpeg" width="234" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWSb1H2cBwwwfDDfd5s-EQZ3vCUXHky-mO5KN8tvvUIkXu1OFZwS0I2boIypF4TSrURghaGhoMgmMllV3YdQymEYgJpfch038bbjIjw_sozwKVmMmuDMYHheNWf0KABJ6wkYcEfZn8P7ohc87AQIPMW18255u1EwlRXnptt1lcSkdaRdLQHK5izAFqX0I/s2205/517199CB-406C-46CA-86C5-E075C4679B8B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2205" data-original-width="1617" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWSb1H2cBwwwfDDfd5s-EQZ3vCUXHky-mO5KN8tvvUIkXu1OFZwS0I2boIypF4TSrURghaGhoMgmMllV3YdQymEYgJpfch038bbjIjw_sozwKVmMmuDMYHheNWf0KABJ6wkYcEfZn8P7ohc87AQIPMW18255u1EwlRXnptt1lcSkdaRdLQHK5izAFqX0I/s320/517199CB-406C-46CA-86C5-E075C4679B8B.jpeg" width="235" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The slight difference in sizes (the base is bit wider than the crown) creates weird tension and the crown bulges unattractively.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So, I decide to see if I can coax it into a nicer shape by stuffing it with tissue paper.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik-hVqoNdgNo3HIBcWRNvVRCyjw-u5fzEvugyM4QfCC6S9pHlxi3MUYatBhKoqd46-MjFTU2y54hyVgaTZ03eHftjxzqtFrVcLVFtQGcoeUDndtfaoRjfuhzu_ca_pI10neZdk5m0A_JZY4uwyyW4NVC5Eh5NGJOdCDLH-Y_OzZCVCWwfSIoi7ChBfjfs/s4032/7C4D1ED0-FA5B-469B-A001-97AEBDAE9B6C.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik-hVqoNdgNo3HIBcWRNvVRCyjw-u5fzEvugyM4QfCC6S9pHlxi3MUYatBhKoqd46-MjFTU2y54hyVgaTZ03eHftjxzqtFrVcLVFtQGcoeUDndtfaoRjfuhzu_ca_pI10neZdk5m0A_JZY4uwyyW4NVC5Eh5NGJOdCDLH-Y_OzZCVCWwfSIoi7ChBfjfs/s320/7C4D1ED0-FA5B-469B-A001-97AEBDAE9B6C.jpeg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE07-qL3zbQGQYXLV95ntgA8pgqFMLkq1vNoLPXhzOpsZJ3jqDZPN6rnDDIOfH02JYBObreyOE_jwE49wds6r6b7FqaHF4zoGFxLMBeweJTKXL5H6ne6ikfeJZkWb-VFtDUiyK-Eq8dtsKd1Mug2eB-srB5-sO_4Z4KPCMlklb0eUTZ-xqQYkimscPeXE/s3433/953D8A9A-CA91-4E83-8512-9E264F73880B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3433" data-original-width="2870" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE07-qL3zbQGQYXLV95ntgA8pgqFMLkq1vNoLPXhzOpsZJ3jqDZPN6rnDDIOfH02JYBObreyOE_jwE49wds6r6b7FqaHF4zoGFxLMBeweJTKXL5H6ne6ikfeJZkWb-VFtDUiyK-Eq8dtsKd1Mug2eB-srB5-sO_4Z4KPCMlklb0eUTZ-xqQYkimscPeXE/s320/953D8A9A-CA91-4E83-8512-9E264F73880B.jpeg" width="268" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After leaving it for a few days (and spraying with a light stiffening sizing) the basic hat shape is done!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBSZdnOAJShW-290u9rpegx2k7dsLbAoaRXs1q7bmZvmMmZZt8fvZrGpg1FGAB4I45x4n03ysm424aoP-vn0k6mNetrF09bgeXFzS6G40iHfa6A9ojoxoRvENruFtbWp4F_B09F852JT05r3sZc7ES1h5p6Ngif-OEPIE_CAJcP2W5cYCdlWYRJchXbk/s4032/F556D4FD-1C7D-4F57-A766-CBF461123D8B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBSZdnOAJShW-290u9rpegx2k7dsLbAoaRXs1q7bmZvmMmZZt8fvZrGpg1FGAB4I45x4n03ysm424aoP-vn0k6mNetrF09bgeXFzS6G40iHfa6A9ojoxoRvENruFtbWp4F_B09F852JT05r3sZc7ES1h5p6Ngif-OEPIE_CAJcP2W5cYCdlWYRJchXbk/s320/F556D4FD-1C7D-4F57-A766-CBF461123D8B.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A black silk band it added, and the hat is complete!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEild07ueoivYx_7FqM4dIgYOMHTyO_HG-bvTIeOkh5lUluWTApmo0OTslvEIGV-Wv5NwX_tYC025fsArEzU7UbPOMhnKN7_3GhUrangBsszy9zDuYAG7asZg3Ml1UuSo4-OLA8ByjhY9aqZbb3SO7C-7zGqjpbs-_u8nAs2bMF3ZJvmHadKN3Bc-P8J4Lo/s3745/E3B2149F-586D-4437-9A13-C2D6059C76AB.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3745" data-original-width="2656" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEild07ueoivYx_7FqM4dIgYOMHTyO_HG-bvTIeOkh5lUluWTApmo0OTslvEIGV-Wv5NwX_tYC025fsArEzU7UbPOMhnKN7_3GhUrangBsszy9zDuYAG7asZg3Ml1UuSo4-OLA8ByjhY9aqZbb3SO7C-7zGqjpbs-_u8nAs2bMF3ZJvmHadKN3Bc-P8J4Lo/w227-h320/E3B2149F-586D-4437-9A13-C2D6059C76AB.jpeg" width="227" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoFnT6uEMmh1QHI2fc-SXsvfRYDTv5UM48_dMWQjf0T__bvxVu-Omzkivo7Nx_kU8f8qzv72nqvp0rYNIWxAjK7Y_kRBYLaF_KYCIHrtRwyGcAT-kvHErWkB_2sOXylztiVwXKdYbZYw8TjZPXv1feQ26cQfDjf_YmwqzoaDz6BfyVUZmg1kEEz0waecw/s3799/8C77C19A-C3DF-4E78-9A4E-FB3FDE3426FB.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3799" data-original-width="2528" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoFnT6uEMmh1QHI2fc-SXsvfRYDTv5UM48_dMWQjf0T__bvxVu-Omzkivo7Nx_kU8f8qzv72nqvp0rYNIWxAjK7Y_kRBYLaF_KYCIHrtRwyGcAT-kvHErWkB_2sOXylztiVwXKdYbZYw8TjZPXv1feQ26cQfDjf_YmwqzoaDz6BfyVUZmg1kEEz0waecw/w213-h320/8C77C19A-C3DF-4E78-9A4E-FB3FDE3426FB.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>And that's it! With final piece complete, the 1590s outfit is ready to go!<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkmeJtR-v8Oxl06bvRNbXQ4AkioYtD-NnKdfUPm3aB3iJtrp7tCcTKQof-4VcQKHMs81fdg3WPYZ5K47AD45-RgJIrTby608nqOoyy6NnQAc3kRHi62ilZ-3M_bRen0br2W3kqudvscDaTG8hdn88nUWgqjuQolhcJGc0LNqETi3QSSdulyoIk0_cy6do/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkmeJtR-v8Oxl06bvRNbXQ4AkioYtD-NnKdfUPm3aB3iJtrp7tCcTKQof-4VcQKHMs81fdg3WPYZ5K47AD45-RgJIrTby608nqOoyy6NnQAc3kRHi62ilZ-3M_bRen0br2W3kqudvscDaTG8hdn88nUWgqjuQolhcJGc0LNqETi3QSSdulyoIk0_cy6do/s320/Nurse_COMBO_01.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjuBHpKBZyqT_MaViRCKd7FyW5_1HsX5DATc6ogQDNPpo16ggj2_ObKuUgvkBI3ikGOf92QXbiT78h7ob2ZbPMETZ76N2D1n5dkBi_5X7djPqbk9otWwI0VPCkSjFab4yqF1rlBWntM0GPoMWnw_z90QXa7JDHq5mBrCSFJVja81N-QwuYLzvzhDP0MPs/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjuBHpKBZyqT_MaViRCKd7FyW5_1HsX5DATc6ogQDNPpo16ggj2_ObKuUgvkBI3ikGOf92QXbiT78h7ob2ZbPMETZ76N2D1n5dkBi_5X7djPqbk9otWwI0VPCkSjFab4yqF1rlBWntM0GPoMWnw_z90QXa7JDHq5mBrCSFJVja81N-QwuYLzvzhDP0MPs/s320/Nurse_COMBO_02.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm3Ok5nAdmE0l31Ckjq8gQ47SbRIhjITq6XRTcYFG7OfNtq4byVL_8pz74iAJSQ1I8th4eikaK8M5P2O8X54KKdykuvVNKzcWyem4PidjnPM6LAhNd-IKz0PBQPmLoI4bp9oxxEL2S_DGuon6MyF6K9adQDvl3fd3RfAQZwLUCX7Z13uxZ3rSYKl-I8nk/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm3Ok5nAdmE0l31Ckjq8gQ47SbRIhjITq6XRTcYFG7OfNtq4byVL_8pz74iAJSQ1I8th4eikaK8M5P2O8X54KKdykuvVNKzcWyem4PidjnPM6LAhNd-IKz0PBQPmLoI4bp9oxxEL2S_DGuon6MyF6K9adQDvl3fd3RfAQZwLUCX7Z13uxZ3rSYKl-I8nk/s320/Nurse_COMBO_03.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRgSwBqi-EFB3M_9vxwmj197oacMWID710lqXeKUjP365hSXYWqe4BQmAxf7ekswmJ_beNQEYtHaCUVtFrVhwwUUtLiuLx4iZIxFGgM0JwBdVhbTkzL3GofQuaV_iijYrsnVk1uSTkbD_t1W0LKHCD0r3N-sEBCBa71CV5WsGYPYAD9ALUTuQintYSndE/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_09.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRgSwBqi-EFB3M_9vxwmj197oacMWID710lqXeKUjP365hSXYWqe4BQmAxf7ekswmJ_beNQEYtHaCUVtFrVhwwUUtLiuLx4iZIxFGgM0JwBdVhbTkzL3GofQuaV_iijYrsnVk1uSTkbD_t1W0LKHCD0r3N-sEBCBa71CV5WsGYPYAD9ALUTuQintYSndE/s320/Nurse_COMBO_09.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2MEoonkF9QI5CE9ZpPie4DWRP1tvuUXxv7sOOf7P8M7182JCO8Hm4toqdYTcr-t-3ftI83t-r916BVP2rEj6gQBUcPorddqksb90-aKIytytAgel2XwWv9JwGLNYVXChSl9eUd1MRR3U8slA0VOa92MkFy6wZQ4eqNNKuB30brgaG7n4_2lHVgyGegY/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_04.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2MEoonkF9QI5CE9ZpPie4DWRP1tvuUXxv7sOOf7P8M7182JCO8Hm4toqdYTcr-t-3ftI83t-r916BVP2rEj6gQBUcPorddqksb90-aKIytytAgel2XwWv9JwGLNYVXChSl9eUd1MRR3U8slA0VOa92MkFy6wZQ4eqNNKuB30brgaG7n4_2lHVgyGegY/s320/Nurse_COMBO_04.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4XRe4_9lz5EhVw_00y7Sjy0SX9mo2MyzNQjhxxy1QaYcGIQntcZ6n9JQNhtvYfy1wbgEd93Gvr4xIidDujUA12XAtfWFTKUCkblN14WHtytamyKm4bkpAd6etD4law5PcCdH9pmFUkEGvS1XQ3SeGIOE5DCy3_IokLOKcckQbmbILLLV6z3CiRvK36hw/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_05A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4XRe4_9lz5EhVw_00y7Sjy0SX9mo2MyzNQjhxxy1QaYcGIQntcZ6n9JQNhtvYfy1wbgEd93Gvr4xIidDujUA12XAtfWFTKUCkblN14WHtytamyKm4bkpAd6etD4law5PcCdH9pmFUkEGvS1XQ3SeGIOE5DCy3_IokLOKcckQbmbILLLV6z3CiRvK36hw/s320/Nurse_COMBO_05A.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioNQIPQZGhUAUUAN8kaGM5PdNW55ggGNItF4GeayRYIOhb9UYXkuOAXbfIg0cilG5ac8PN_2Es-7u4y54mSYGQZKZ5tpdUM3RzKKAoo4dacBYoC5qfXugAJi4zgBBr13lX_wtM_ru872NO6EYPSqyFRHc3lvOuLcPdko5l2QTS9Bh7G2-aH3ATlLD1Ry0/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_06.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioNQIPQZGhUAUUAN8kaGM5PdNW55ggGNItF4GeayRYIOhb9UYXkuOAXbfIg0cilG5ac8PN_2Es-7u4y54mSYGQZKZ5tpdUM3RzKKAoo4dacBYoC5qfXugAJi4zgBBr13lX_wtM_ru872NO6EYPSqyFRHc3lvOuLcPdko5l2QTS9Bh7G2-aH3ATlLD1Ry0/s320/Nurse_COMBO_06.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirAJ8GYCQjAEGiGisYc6qMDfuFhBSPjG_ImrlS8b274IZgUwlR-rGe0LyvQAPHhBHYqs_VA-XR8YlR7E4L4c_HJYFrnWnL4YbYNPbFbUxXlmrwFVHX9ShfnE4HVr0j-Hh8eBQwwi5Jmvmdl1fYSPyuh42QHEBYm_PwrqXxbTxmZfdO2yiPgKgrP1_ZsA8/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_07.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirAJ8GYCQjAEGiGisYc6qMDfuFhBSPjG_ImrlS8b274IZgUwlR-rGe0LyvQAPHhBHYqs_VA-XR8YlR7E4L4c_HJYFrnWnL4YbYNPbFbUxXlmrwFVHX9ShfnE4HVr0j-Hh8eBQwwi5Jmvmdl1fYSPyuh42QHEBYm_PwrqXxbTxmZfdO2yiPgKgrP1_ZsA8/s320/Nurse_COMBO_07.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPFIwVHksVbMkXkJxj67UD5T9KaCC-420mMRfw20yV2ZreXOn_HWvojfDLuqT7Ophk708eBirFBBAWfsspV_tsHtv9bxLbU5PBjq3fRCEEMf7GuhrJVGEzHHjNnvjCuCMUGNto8EPZWArw7y0itaI_cwT5Pb1VgZ9qZ-3rFgm9EUGkmMuMsout4RUQDQU/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_08.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPFIwVHksVbMkXkJxj67UD5T9KaCC-420mMRfw20yV2ZreXOn_HWvojfDLuqT7Ophk708eBirFBBAWfsspV_tsHtv9bxLbU5PBjq3fRCEEMf7GuhrJVGEzHHjNnvjCuCMUGNto8EPZWArw7y0itaI_cwT5Pb1VgZ9qZ-3rFgm9EUGkmMuMsout4RUQDQU/s320/Nurse_COMBO_08.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQHZPDwfFsU0lqk_-HrWETflvlu6hU5HPRoMCv0cfSyYOcJKqc2C1foDREm8UORKbfIAlZ8q5g1mebaFxZXaitYaIhNSj8qS6TE0Qr-skzXiWobAwFxugfyrURkWyi3yGPcx_Kfw7XiKz0wZD86Lmp54SeLP2Ah20QQCls8_N6T86Xge8w622IyPDQ_fI/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQHZPDwfFsU0lqk_-HrWETflvlu6hU5HPRoMCv0cfSyYOcJKqc2C1foDREm8UORKbfIAlZ8q5g1mebaFxZXaitYaIhNSj8qS6TE0Qr-skzXiWobAwFxugfyrURkWyi3yGPcx_Kfw7XiKz0wZD86Lmp54SeLP2Ah20QQCls8_N6T86Xge8w622IyPDQ_fI/s320/Nurse_COMBO_11.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFbCWJkY-tMPWeeaPP2EEsy-eHz417oxW6F7NYUfah3-pdsLkf58kMNM1plYULLFVNgep1eYLh23zXcMDRp5E5kvRDlHHcANMiht0YdJUOzKv3-0Q8Wxa5lG00S0eNGVYAOgbPW6sNBVVXsxQocP2W0-4GnoFaO3OmbAfLYHVwyIRXHb7MU7njea-g_lA/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFbCWJkY-tMPWeeaPP2EEsy-eHz417oxW6F7NYUfah3-pdsLkf58kMNM1plYULLFVNgep1eYLh23zXcMDRp5E5kvRDlHHcANMiht0YdJUOzKv3-0Q8Wxa5lG00S0eNGVYAOgbPW6sNBVVXsxQocP2W0-4GnoFaO3OmbAfLYHVwyIRXHb7MU7njea-g_lA/s320/Nurse_COMBO_10.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9LqYPaM3jhZ06EtY7gdd2hLnigUuRv2_U1Y2djt8uuUfSy8tfJyT5Db1dgdbFvqQdJkTvEQtVHt-1HNr065DVA2CHUleYVTFrV90JNObHZkzWblx6Hb5Cq4d-VjHwq1qfe-ThUq8sfaGM8ASfzFhvfISsWjei61DQ8x9NpdS3kNG8sELei7_NTLu2kH8/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_12%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9LqYPaM3jhZ06EtY7gdd2hLnigUuRv2_U1Y2djt8uuUfSy8tfJyT5Db1dgdbFvqQdJkTvEQtVHt-1HNr065DVA2CHUleYVTFrV90JNObHZkzWblx6Hb5Cq4d-VjHwq1qfe-ThUq8sfaGM8ASfzFhvfISsWjei61DQ8x9NpdS3kNG8sELei7_NTLu2kH8/s320/Nurse_COMBO_12%20copy.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Next with the apron.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMtuubfeLct1nAcQn1I6DW_ciWNyrGL8Kb9B0rVoCSTDjl_qV3rmJyUZl_JKCchml9wwD9DThuCX4K_3Sq-m95vcxKhDsGvh8QdOJZrhyphenhyphen6avFSomLaOLtLJI2awDy6LIoQXrHuPuPGErTiJX_usvLNtUPZ83OvF0cVTxGyMihfcOVfzAH2W8Ptb9YeSa8/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_13.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMtuubfeLct1nAcQn1I6DW_ciWNyrGL8Kb9B0rVoCSTDjl_qV3rmJyUZl_JKCchml9wwD9DThuCX4K_3Sq-m95vcxKhDsGvh8QdOJZrhyphenhyphen6avFSomLaOLtLJI2awDy6LIoQXrHuPuPGErTiJX_usvLNtUPZ83OvF0cVTxGyMihfcOVfzAH2W8Ptb9YeSa8/s320/Nurse_COMBO_13.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzUscJkj1JyWAfQuVM8UXLxfhYWNyUw-oQ7jLuzqlTOmqn1-CQfq5lm_0oGulLGeqF_3e-pox3F7BPSmkhcub9LmXycZBzLDJqd_ngtOWNJ-pfi0ai1OSdxF8J3arbhWFu1EN-z7qIk3LcgGbDQDqLWKQWvVSZI4DvRxmhOSq80YYjbJpwz59q3GD2JpI/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_16.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzUscJkj1JyWAfQuVM8UXLxfhYWNyUw-oQ7jLuzqlTOmqn1-CQfq5lm_0oGulLGeqF_3e-pox3F7BPSmkhcub9LmXycZBzLDJqd_ngtOWNJ-pfi0ai1OSdxF8J3arbhWFu1EN-z7qIk3LcgGbDQDqLWKQWvVSZI4DvRxmhOSq80YYjbJpwz59q3GD2JpI/s320/Nurse_COMBO_16.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijvNck7E2-yHnGbDa5gtcBI3UPF7RxDdUoVMKz9AFMBsmmsLSyLzgcVvSi91A-yM1k6GmGCX9ObzD6C9-tDROV44wYLYGES040z-O7F9FTPXHqiacDN1zkEn27cGCMDvgxrHPyimKtlPz_f0h6ZcSQZtt9hhY63FtII2QxZO2w1HsKpXtXunpCSYIVQws/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijvNck7E2-yHnGbDa5gtcBI3UPF7RxDdUoVMKz9AFMBsmmsLSyLzgcVvSi91A-yM1k6GmGCX9ObzD6C9-tDROV44wYLYGES040z-O7F9FTPXHqiacDN1zkEn27cGCMDvgxrHPyimKtlPz_f0h6ZcSQZtt9hhY63FtII2QxZO2w1HsKpXtXunpCSYIVQws/s320/Nurse_COMBO_14.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqzxi6QJwQF1MDKvN_O5YclQaeFDOywvs26SOvz-DNzYbjFQPSWeCInBv2Kz2HAWlTCKTcMukNnakdpTmTRCRcYIgrywhIa44P1jEymYdtR3MIwgnJFzasmMSpaj70DXiOkFpgbvjqNO5s7cHb9K8Id2Psqei1b3vTRvJxRUtt8LIsgJiaZ6CodlGiOI/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_15.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqzxi6QJwQF1MDKvN_O5YclQaeFDOywvs26SOvz-DNzYbjFQPSWeCInBv2Kz2HAWlTCKTcMukNnakdpTmTRCRcYIgrywhIa44P1jEymYdtR3MIwgnJFzasmMSpaj70DXiOkFpgbvjqNO5s7cHb9K8Id2Psqei1b3vTRvJxRUtt8LIsgJiaZ6CodlGiOI/s320/Nurse_COMBO_15.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, I wasn't totally pleased with the way the ruff was sitting...mostly because the white chemisette is collarless and I forget to add a partlet underneath (which was my original intention).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwv7Jcn5WbMnp6Qxkw_hxJQy22AvK_69pbeBP1PpTP_ysipt0L7kduTQar-gOGBa9qd_9x-yUOIjCgxWp3lVUpUo2ntn2ScMd0JNHiFJrVmOPhEoCMuDYfS9NepQ4zim0Kv117flcJCbUwK0elWOSRk9gXu_o0eulK8zpnGQZUnKQAywri1eWB2i-OPQU/s2048/IMG_3958a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1883" data-original-width="2048" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwv7Jcn5WbMnp6Qxkw_hxJQy22AvK_69pbeBP1PpTP_ysipt0L7kduTQar-gOGBa9qd_9x-yUOIjCgxWp3lVUpUo2ntn2ScMd0JNHiFJrVmOPhEoCMuDYfS9NepQ4zim0Kv117flcJCbUwK0elWOSRk9gXu_o0eulK8zpnGQZUnKQAywri1eWB2i-OPQU/s320/IMG_3958a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So being too lazy to undress entirely, I tried wacking on a wire supportress just to see if that improved the silhouette at all.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTKdI5u1FMoZdOrUKkJD7tz3ZI85uLsVRsNnXydGmwuYB3lwB7GgIHps7H3b6ricfZjwR6Zm5FfDnuIghZ_NVTR_OUwU80kXa1vZFjypm1OKbd9eiHv4WzHc0nVxlef0v8k8qoNX4RJvE-V4ldwFIL43bAP5JMDUoCFdO5WXKXOI3knmD0WKQ1H2SUk0/s3598/B5F1B4F9-5DCB-4008-BDF7-934E32F8F4F2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2915" data-original-width="3598" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTKdI5u1FMoZdOrUKkJD7tz3ZI85uLsVRsNnXydGmwuYB3lwB7GgIHps7H3b6ricfZjwR6Zm5FfDnuIghZ_NVTR_OUwU80kXa1vZFjypm1OKbd9eiHv4WzHc0nVxlef0v8k8qoNX4RJvE-V4ldwFIL43bAP5JMDUoCFdO5WXKXOI3knmD0WKQ1H2SUk0/s320/B5F1B4F9-5DCB-4008-BDF7-934E32F8F4F2.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8TKRmXA0NR3s_nM1jsV6ZgwX98AfoG-Pt0gQ5B13aAUzuvFxnaQaINdsXmguD_TdbMSAQJ700yLK_WveUm2RFw6CbppoYQ0ZikVQfDA64kOwesH4umU1S85TIQbNMNS26vEJYBzEikNxJFvK0D02qxmDoTPH4RRGNyPA7jPy-ydRyIfV7VXZ2MEL4yoY/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8TKRmXA0NR3s_nM1jsV6ZgwX98AfoG-Pt0gQ5B13aAUzuvFxnaQaINdsXmguD_TdbMSAQJ700yLK_WveUm2RFw6CbppoYQ0ZikVQfDA64kOwesH4umU1S85TIQbNMNS26vEJYBzEikNxJFvK0D02qxmDoTPH4RRGNyPA7jPy-ydRyIfV7VXZ2MEL4yoY/s320/Nurse_COMBO_18.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2nWwPNQLj5dpfC4WYooe9rzAeRXPdVPrFtxpXKzzW5QYKthqKaOCsorRsdqJUpSQJvdHkvhEDcDHHN4a6em0uM7gydj6X1mEL2hkhvx0puTl_-YKSe9LyOSM0oUw2ycZpOGYXU8L2tVNWofypdOzA9_SDRlOmzDxqg9q8NQqNYpz-tN19svC6YcbC4_4/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_19.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2nWwPNQLj5dpfC4WYooe9rzAeRXPdVPrFtxpXKzzW5QYKthqKaOCsorRsdqJUpSQJvdHkvhEDcDHHN4a6em0uM7gydj6X1mEL2hkhvx0puTl_-YKSe9LyOSM0oUw2ycZpOGYXU8L2tVNWofypdOzA9_SDRlOmzDxqg9q8NQqNYpz-tN19svC6YcbC4_4/s320/Nurse_COMBO_19.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS_DBhg_I8XWjio9jVMEzw2IbVeN0TOPQoe4FRqcUgeV2xmI6nxY2cdM1svFdCnCV8gEV6NDQuqg5_smdt93NU5sxrNlx_1-P07kv6WlckkJ-vGI5tzHR6y0FMODQdSpojJp9_cZIybEjUOrNIL5vW-qJQl7v4NDsrJVWuMx59ptrQ3MiDldFQ3hLC_5g/s5892/Nurse_COMBO_20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5892" data-original-width="3840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS_DBhg_I8XWjio9jVMEzw2IbVeN0TOPQoe4FRqcUgeV2xmI6nxY2cdM1svFdCnCV8gEV6NDQuqg5_smdt93NU5sxrNlx_1-P07kv6WlckkJ-vGI5tzHR6y0FMODQdSpojJp9_cZIybEjUOrNIL5vW-qJQl7v4NDsrJVWuMx59ptrQ3MiDldFQ3hLC_5g/s320/Nurse_COMBO_20.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And lastly, no reproduction of the Dunch portrait would be complete without a stand-in for a creepy Elizabethan child...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTer5n6OMpFszzxJ09K_OgUBrsRTOdif_GDK1byiiKIkpV374bxvSg14ZinJ1W0OkQywYNZx1Us2V1V0i7fg20tNXkmtKXEi5CvqmTHrmob9ovUyuE5HINa1sLgDh-Sv4BIdHgCkROw9qsYXYHlOgSwo2b-IqOSqAsHBZF3nNZlGiwErU2W2E_LhaBPw/s1199/John_Dunch_and_his_nurse_Elizabeth_Field.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="962" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTer5n6OMpFszzxJ09K_OgUBrsRTOdif_GDK1byiiKIkpV374bxvSg14ZinJ1W0OkQywYNZx1Us2V1V0i7fg20tNXkmtKXEi5CvqmTHrmob9ovUyuE5HINa1sLgDh-Sv4BIdHgCkROw9qsYXYHlOgSwo2b-IqOSqAsHBZF3nNZlGiwErU2W2E_LhaBPw/s320/John_Dunch_and_his_nurse_Elizabeth_Field.jpg" width="257" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6k2YTVg7WpHZSwBV9d31NKhvLr_l8rFLTjIs5OjHledekqERUSB0dKb4Aip3fVQ2S7elu5WnD80uz_0Fwk9ZVoZn71sEfMGcXGMnBwXpks8y1-al0gwU4AVgeA7jYSbwB1onbCrDDeb2RJKRZkciLA86G7WdGq1nudSUfTgY1G5Rr7jUWBXN6a7x8BS0/s4474/Nurse_02A%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4474" data-original-width="3507" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6k2YTVg7WpHZSwBV9d31NKhvLr_l8rFLTjIs5OjHledekqERUSB0dKb4Aip3fVQ2S7elu5WnD80uz_0Fwk9ZVoZn71sEfMGcXGMnBwXpks8y1-al0gwU4AVgeA7jYSbwB1onbCrDDeb2RJKRZkciLA86G7WdGq1nudSUfTgY1G5Rr7jUWBXN6a7x8BS0/s320/Nurse_02A%20copy.jpg" width="251" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Aaaaaaaand it's done! (10 years later!)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Final thoughts: I'm really happy to have finally realized this outfit! It's a bit large and cumbersome, so I doubt I'll ever wear it to Faire...also it's so bizarre to modern sensibilities, but that's what I love about it. </div><div style="text-align: left;">(And I'm super proud of that stupid hat, even if it is a hodgepodge)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I think the overall look is really striking, but there are still a couple of things I could happily tweak.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">For one thing, the gown is <i>waaaaaa</i>y too long and could definitely stand to loose at least 2" from the bottom. </div><div style="text-align: left;">I also think I need a better way to secure the bottom of the chemisette/dickey (and might experiment a bit more with tucking it under the point of my pair of bodies).</div><div style="text-align: left;">Still, I'm chalking this one up to a success. It definitely has the overall feel that I was hoping to achieve.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5gLQL81HPaKEb5vb3DHX9KJQ6AI7ZwBwB5fd7cTH1UCARlR5EeG5VIMcKcbZTICiQEOz6Mt-qHXnFn8ndLj89R0DZZwaBA5wnBqZJ1RDqGNk5VNMYUjgqMfdyUlbyB06m67HUSW34j-5uqzcl3FybhMHxwurH4EkfSxyUBqU5qt8CI18fRT5q5o9ma54/s4927/Nurse_Portrait2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4927" data-original-width="3663" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5gLQL81HPaKEb5vb3DHX9KJQ6AI7ZwBwB5fd7cTH1UCARlR5EeG5VIMcKcbZTICiQEOz6Mt-qHXnFn8ndLj89R0DZZwaBA5wnBqZJ1RDqGNk5VNMYUjgqMfdyUlbyB06m67HUSW34j-5uqzcl3FybhMHxwurH4EkfSxyUBqU5qt8CI18fRT5q5o9ma54/w298-h400/Nurse_Portrait2.jpg" width="298" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Pattern: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-<a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/">The Tudor Tailor</a> (book)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Fabric:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Black wool from <a href="https://www.moodfabrics.com/">Mood Fabrics</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Hemp muslin from <a href="http://www.hemptraders.com/">Hemp Trader</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Trim and Notions:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">- Worsted black wool tape from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Thread:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White cotton thread (silk finish) for linens</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Boning:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-5mm Synthetic whalebone also from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=137&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Other Supplies:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black wool felt hat blank from <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Lawliet-Cloche-millinery-Fascinators-B107/dp/B01N68GBK4/ref=asc_df_B01MXPV304/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=675641344519&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4917889302554876888&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031030&hvtargid=pla-825491728511&mcid=0fa4c25132f13b3696809bd87ffac82a&th=1&psc=1">Amazon</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Swedish pattern paper from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sewable-Swedish-Tracing-Paper-Inches/dp/B000PNEWVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383452754&sr=8-1&keywords=swiss+pattern+paper">Amazon</a>. (This stuff is great! You can iron it!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Pattern weights</div></div></div></div><div><br style="text-align: left;" /></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-74159378332210848732023-07-04T21:07:00.375-07:002024-01-05T14:41:12.080-08:00Red “Field of the Cloth of Gold” Kirtle<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirc0XgEl3fm-CPkaw5CKlp3Fwqut_O6BZDl4O5lCCfP1C_Cn-DKnpVhoA90tt_I2UuBC7aXYq81mX5VQtoPM1gEU6rhATY3IXJEExpVD89i7HZPybEhKyNS17L44W91IgGjd-m_pvEa9iv6b7Sc_gFBwejCXEi3AK1z7bD2wjeU2V6pZcpSQBV2WNfQwc/s5491/Red%20Kirtle_01A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5491" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirc0XgEl3fm-CPkaw5CKlp3Fwqut_O6BZDl4O5lCCfP1C_Cn-DKnpVhoA90tt_I2UuBC7aXYq81mX5VQtoPM1gEU6rhATY3IXJEExpVD89i7HZPybEhKyNS17L44W91IgGjd-m_pvEa9iv6b7Sc_gFBwejCXEi3AK1z7bD2wjeU2V6pZcpSQBV2WNfQwc/w201-h320/Red%20Kirtle_01A.jpg" width="201" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggPzZB-1LhuyST6Ja9dhx0UElyR5Wy11nfcv_EZjgEHqn_7PyXffCLdngxcTZAmY95jlCb82o3Oiw7G5yHVJvUM31LyVqQasrXm7pNLck2upFOy9pAgAw4umDxtlhw4LuqfaHpYYsmI5mwk6JFKiNjzXlV8Q3yvc8WMgmw1PKhR969MjxfwENngDNOImc/s5491/Red%20Kirtle_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5491" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggPzZB-1LhuyST6Ja9dhx0UElyR5Wy11nfcv_EZjgEHqn_7PyXffCLdngxcTZAmY95jlCb82o3Oiw7G5yHVJvUM31LyVqQasrXm7pNLck2upFOy9pAgAw4umDxtlhw4LuqfaHpYYsmI5mwk6JFKiNjzXlV8Q3yvc8WMgmw1PKhR969MjxfwENngDNOImc/w201-h320/Red%20Kirtle_03.jpg" width="201" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is another project that has been on my to do list for a while.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It started almost exactly a year ago: I made my first mock up during the July long weekend last year and took these photos over the same holiday weekend this year. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It was meant to be a quick summer project, but it was almost immediately derailed...because I have the attention span of a gerbil.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'd wanted to make a red kirtle for ages and fell in love with the bold, black and yellow accessories of the one featured in the Hampton Court painting "The Field of the Cloth of Gold" (circa 1545).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSK7nOuyphtDIiYfe4b4bWRxj9Bf_USKwy2ji7VVzaDlpyJnBW23i0Gju8ecxBIrdIbIvy0vDvce-kGZG1ZtN0DzTvXJ5KDhfSdqEZaF_kAUr7kTMChUFZc9o2oSiEvAOl1B-ROnqMzjELSq_Yclr2OJ7dZpYFT6l57Yx-xJQHhsYp0ggPQAHX9D-/s2250/DDEE37BF-00AF-4A3B-B75F-7CFAA6BEF2D3.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1090" data-original-width="2250" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSK7nOuyphtDIiYfe4b4bWRxj9Bf_USKwy2ji7VVzaDlpyJnBW23i0Gju8ecxBIrdIbIvy0vDvce-kGZG1ZtN0DzTvXJ5KDhfSdqEZaF_kAUr7kTMChUFZc9o2oSiEvAOl1B-ROnqMzjELSq_Yclr2OJ7dZpYFT6l57Yx-xJQHhsYp0ggPQAHX9D-/w400-h194/DDEE37BF-00AF-4A3B-B75F-7CFAA6BEF2D3.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdyFRzgjdP0OoPd5sNMLxmv6OgsXCoqyU7Yv4GUHH_HLt-AFcBSNQOFK6X8n25-VA3mqlx2xzXdgW-CIpMTB0EsZ26TvRBlQYTZE2NV2LcdvtQUgzRs7QKd3oK2gYdEEa5y37IfAxd3zke8Sph2fz-BSXxL_ASUV-9CBbPAaO_ocsHW_3r9WXcn2m/s1480/B05D84C8-BD9E-48F2-A281-1CF0814AFFAF.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1317" data-original-width="1480" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdyFRzgjdP0OoPd5sNMLxmv6OgsXCoqyU7Yv4GUHH_HLt-AFcBSNQOFK6X8n25-VA3mqlx2xzXdgW-CIpMTB0EsZ26TvRBlQYTZE2NV2LcdvtQUgzRs7QKd3oK2gYdEEa5y37IfAxd3zke8Sph2fz-BSXxL_ASUV-9CBbPAaO_ocsHW_3r9WXcn2m/s320/B05D84C8-BD9E-48F2-A281-1CF0814AFFAF.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMhL3a7btGX_mQldGUhaxFHS_flLJIKQJUPK6JHdTd8yL8-fPCVz4pLKrSSsd4MPOkUCrolForObMrvwISUA5kHD412Oecchgh6jaKTZfkM2SITSXXQXasO-jvDVFYfau7ZNucsFT3lf6EooYFzbS7qfjU42dvZIyneuGc3Rq_8G6_xufJtc9_6Om/s1426/8C3FEDB8-B7EC-468E-BF1F-126BD7EF029E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1426" data-original-width="968" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMhL3a7btGX_mQldGUhaxFHS_flLJIKQJUPK6JHdTd8yL8-fPCVz4pLKrSSsd4MPOkUCrolForObMrvwISUA5kHD412Oecchgh6jaKTZfkM2SITSXXQXasO-jvDVFYfau7ZNucsFT3lf6EooYFzbS7qfjU42dvZIyneuGc3Rq_8G6_xufJtc9_6Om/s320/8C3FEDB8-B7EC-468E-BF1F-126BD7EF029E.jpeg" width="217" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But (as explained in the the write up for my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/05/blue-short-sleeved-kirtle.html">Blue Kirtle</a>) on the verge of cutting my fabric I became distracted by this image...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv2nX_KxyuAu6TCKXFdWPryqXTPtC2AHUqgY2UrktXOuRduuzwmiQFP6loy_qThpn6ItfmmwBW3Cp28gPClxzIEo_Ahsd2bpsAvuKW64R9roual5mRRLLUHYiWO98yJJEc8DjX6rEWB5Ih0w_Wnbm4pBLikZ3SY5NypHiyis3s7h2iO0auB8OBmguxJ6c/s938/9E5569F7-244B-41C9-B620-79F43334A888.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="938" data-original-width="647" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv2nX_KxyuAu6TCKXFdWPryqXTPtC2AHUqgY2UrktXOuRduuzwmiQFP6loy_qThpn6ItfmmwBW3Cp28gPClxzIEo_Ahsd2bpsAvuKW64R9roual5mRRLLUHYiWO98yJJEc8DjX6rEWB5Ih0w_Wnbm4pBLikZ3SY5NypHiyis3s7h2iO0auB8OBmguxJ6c/s320/9E5569F7-244B-41C9-B620-79F43334A888.jpeg" width="221" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">... and completely shifted the colour palette of the whole project.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-czJAGU7ce0mNGoogDVsjxysieY91IB0K26uaOil1LoBa0eM5_vgrj_f9m_uNAR3a8y5yneXIbYe64pdE_OOXlvyPD48GxeK4UE261ZWTL9rL2GJ3WIz2Eag4UGn2zHR0U-o_L_h0bMyH0ll2D7i3-P9CveKyPhgvfp-6Fvc6yNBuKGeJDV4VWxHy_s/s5557/BK_01A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB-czJAGU7ce0mNGoogDVsjxysieY91IB0K26uaOil1LoBa0eM5_vgrj_f9m_uNAR3a8y5yneXIbYe64pdE_OOXlvyPD48GxeK4UE261ZWTL9rL2GJ3WIz2Eag4UGn2zHR0U-o_L_h0bMyH0ll2D7i3-P9CveKyPhgvfp-6Fvc6yNBuKGeJDV4VWxHy_s/s320/BK_01A.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGw4ETIfcnIK688cauc9vYNquVrhuDr4MUjHYbiLW60yV2qghvyFMdm6kCMgOKpI6kg5fJ11XAso1qc4vOzI83Z4Dq40Zumbos8xpWEnLZPViGZgGg-MC4addgWDZEMe5kpdeUupfquu4QLQ5ITfaMfYVG6q80iGVyPEhLAbbBYEFGbYag9s0Nd54bvc/s5587/BK_06B.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5587" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGw4ETIfcnIK688cauc9vYNquVrhuDr4MUjHYbiLW60yV2qghvyFMdm6kCMgOKpI6kg5fJ11XAso1qc4vOzI83Z4Dq40Zumbos8xpWEnLZPViGZgGg-MC4addgWDZEMe5kpdeUupfquu4QLQ5ITfaMfYVG6q80iGVyPEhLAbbBYEFGbYag9s0Nd54bvc/s320/BK_06B.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div><br /></div>It was super fun (and I went a bit nuts on the <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/05/blue-kirtle-mix-match.html">Mix & Match</a>), but with that out of my system I immediately returned to the red kirtle...reasoning that if I put off off again I would never get it done. <div><br /></div><div>On the plus side, after creating a bevy of different accessories for the blue kirtle, I now had virtually all the pieces I needed to complete this outfit! Minus the kirtle itself...</div><div><br /></div><div>I won't go into detail on the construction since it's basically the exact same process as the <b><a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/05/blue-short-sleeved-kirtle.html">blue kirtle</a></b>. The only difference is that I folded back an additional 1/2" or so on either side of the center lacing edge to create a larger gap at the front of the bodice (to mirror the fact that the bodice in the original painting doesn't close all the way).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8MqkeNoV_tglTJl-K0dtzuoIrVLYSolPvJrxNhPZv03xmjTfH7yverv_VgwQ0fIIc43xc3WFtQzYqVLlS0QCYjs7VC7pVrJ5p5H6vVDx6oNryf5wnxIBPl_KJqc9ACbOsWAnpcop4m7Ld30dXjnkH_Ka4om_oQfQHSDM0u4p-u52KGlO_z9nxti6xXB8/s2346/9FD82BB6-A926-4B80-A69D-01ABEFAD7435.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2124" data-original-width="2346" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8MqkeNoV_tglTJl-K0dtzuoIrVLYSolPvJrxNhPZv03xmjTfH7yverv_VgwQ0fIIc43xc3WFtQzYqVLlS0QCYjs7VC7pVrJ5p5H6vVDx6oNryf5wnxIBPl_KJqc9ACbOsWAnpcop4m7Ld30dXjnkH_Ka4om_oQfQHSDM0u4p-u52KGlO_z9nxti6xXB8/s320/9FD82BB6-A926-4B80-A69D-01ABEFAD7435.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimzfxchxK6IwixDgwduzse7FG63MVixQsjeabMyyNhYXwUcVsQ88lfR0LPi3dUy1poQzrU6B6-CKk_TXRSQNBn6nJGrR-uUyEcsrJagQup5gINIht7TqRynJiq4doul1ZCGw59MVnz6opCw-yNu53auMOmA8ovCc6fJks9PAQPOmG2bwwd4TDoxX-8XUM/s2728/292E6649-49FF-4F25-8632-F1D3D60D23F5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2426" data-original-width="2728" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimzfxchxK6IwixDgwduzse7FG63MVixQsjeabMyyNhYXwUcVsQ88lfR0LPi3dUy1poQzrU6B6-CKk_TXRSQNBn6nJGrR-uUyEcsrJagQup5gINIht7TqRynJiq4doul1ZCGw59MVnz6opCw-yNu53auMOmA8ovCc6fJks9PAQPOmG2bwwd4TDoxX-8XUM/s320/292E6649-49FF-4F25-8632-F1D3D60D23F5.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAREdNE7_4CfLy207nRP0RJ2HZjfJW9Hu5TS1c3Kz9HEylw-nABPobpLHiD0GDsTGzvgYdD6HA0ps2WxHl5GdWe4sANVGS-2x7vYlEP5jLhNFBAu8mNZhDj2b2yxyYNgn9oQNzqxW6E4LY7ss91DcH-WBsAUj_BWyUzFiQqoiHQG1UwfygyLcI-ugyZDU/s3408/5E0D34ED-3FA1-4A88-8962-DACF07C59912.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2392" data-original-width="3408" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAREdNE7_4CfLy207nRP0RJ2HZjfJW9Hu5TS1c3Kz9HEylw-nABPobpLHiD0GDsTGzvgYdD6HA0ps2WxHl5GdWe4sANVGS-2x7vYlEP5jLhNFBAu8mNZhDj2b2yxyYNgn9oQNzqxW6E4LY7ss91DcH-WBsAUj_BWyUzFiQqoiHQG1UwfygyLcI-ugyZDU/s320/5E0D34ED-3FA1-4A88-8962-DACF07C59912.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>The skirt is constructed and pleated exactly the same as before.</div><div>I did leave the skirt a little longer this time (again to match the painting) but I think I actually prefer the shorter length of the blue one.</div><div><br /></div><div>So through the magic of editing, the kirtle is done!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA6vLBb5WoKM5DLJODeCUBsPTRgRZUm40XNTfV9pMzw7MjcOg3I9TnE1KhzIA7-sblbdLhtCm2sJuFk81UjqE5RRnFdxZBY3AAQakkd_HVK_qMLT-LGy_P5QsBNXD_Q3ew1vW1ByApZf5OXpsBEHvFzWJHNbGjSw6SNxfU48JKvLfU9BvYYqFmNethQ6s/s5517/Red%20Kirtle_10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA6vLBb5WoKM5DLJODeCUBsPTRgRZUm40XNTfV9pMzw7MjcOg3I9TnE1KhzIA7-sblbdLhtCm2sJuFk81UjqE5RRnFdxZBY3AAQakkd_HVK_qMLT-LGy_P5QsBNXD_Q3ew1vW1ByApZf5OXpsBEHvFzWJHNbGjSw6SNxfU48JKvLfU9BvYYqFmNethQ6s/s320/Red%20Kirtle_10.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyunuP-SwzwcIC9qtF_LomwSDz2cbBRXFuhAVvCdYT9dIi2zPQ78f3HSGnIFFN-MZj0qNDkYx32m1qRDc8BlkiswWKn8gbn_Tyu7A9ictIw-Vg7RWcaqAwg57JXxOvceFNwmZ53i3kmJglOgZEYzHYmp4WLkRAcNuKlrz247gISGAND_EMH_U-4D7Cv-g/s5517/Red%20Kirtle_08.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyunuP-SwzwcIC9qtF_LomwSDz2cbBRXFuhAVvCdYT9dIi2zPQ78f3HSGnIFFN-MZj0qNDkYx32m1qRDc8BlkiswWKn8gbn_Tyu7A9ictIw-Vg7RWcaqAwg57JXxOvceFNwmZ53i3kmJglOgZEYzHYmp4WLkRAcNuKlrz247gISGAND_EMH_U-4D7Cv-g/s320/Red%20Kirtle_08.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK08TnEYnaPDiykGh7it9JlS14pTGwYpcmfvRqSgYlrPC7m2MjmUZwBTyOeEhvUHPLES3FvK14Dh4nKZIyNTSaKYWKfm007p7RNMxbyAZY4LjMUOKAw9GHIO67K1ANPOFrrxswHCJdb1E20Gsqsy3TqURi34v7NZqlOhlxJ8KFeG1wioD7J6FwOX5dJ2E/s5517/Red%20Kirtle_12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK08TnEYnaPDiykGh7it9JlS14pTGwYpcmfvRqSgYlrPC7m2MjmUZwBTyOeEhvUHPLES3FvK14Dh4nKZIyNTSaKYWKfm007p7RNMxbyAZY4LjMUOKAw9GHIO67K1ANPOFrrxswHCJdb1E20Gsqsy3TqURi34v7NZqlOhlxJ8KFeG1wioD7J6FwOX5dJ2E/s320/Red%20Kirtle_12.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiKKLRIAZ3pzrj19vCOo4XZ9LR4zJMLd9Xi3ROWIKs_NDsg4RrcsUsDFTuMQdG9xJq-Wg_FaVXV3cdlkH1MNluFeFRX_b0iYhiF17aYmh50eVYd0Bw4V7viWpkao5v66ZC_xCXHIaKpJOogkU7xDhHgtK3RY5DUAKvXvd1T1tRM4a5mC8YHPQU1xEIBgY/s5517/Red%20Kirtle_11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiKKLRIAZ3pzrj19vCOo4XZ9LR4zJMLd9Xi3ROWIKs_NDsg4RrcsUsDFTuMQdG9xJq-Wg_FaVXV3cdlkH1MNluFeFRX_b0iYhiF17aYmh50eVYd0Bw4V7viWpkao5v66ZC_xCXHIaKpJOogkU7xDhHgtK3RY5DUAKvXvd1T1tRM4a5mC8YHPQU1xEIBgY/s320/Red%20Kirtle_11.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgntHVVmUzZus0kaFO3Jx3LJugWfCM1WkUaoLsKl_swSt-bF8Wpp3h7PYE3Z2UC6XDpgKNOnQWHMcMZQXw_5Qrpbq9mTytb0wIspzbg7u3BKuEIaMu-7pJk9J88Ippj498RKOkgFJOEpuznxJvMg0zMY_pFYDpnQqHQXgHCt8jxOgl8So0PzS7BXyA-ZSA/s5517/Red%20Kirtle_09.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgntHVVmUzZus0kaFO3Jx3LJugWfCM1WkUaoLsKl_swSt-bF8Wpp3h7PYE3Z2UC6XDpgKNOnQWHMcMZQXw_5Qrpbq9mTytb0wIspzbg7u3BKuEIaMu-7pJk9J88Ippj498RKOkgFJOEpuznxJvMg0zMY_pFYDpnQqHQXgHCt8jxOgl8So0PzS7BXyA-ZSA/s320/Red%20Kirtle_09.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYbkbZO8gm7uWBFAczC2qkiKi49rAQFjbpAuju4zG_MeegEcdjdFDe39Kv1Om3BcxB3-ARRoAwZvVx9tMnKrvqgDpXknBW-dvOZ06KZCms5pmxPceyh6Fmx5-q7W_TLWy8lVE3O97IgdTT3vOkW1-Yfodt7LdlmeDgKcaSHx98fqnWufZGrDB_LgLbPNg/s5517/Red%20Kirtle_14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYbkbZO8gm7uWBFAczC2qkiKi49rAQFjbpAuju4zG_MeegEcdjdFDe39Kv1Om3BcxB3-ARRoAwZvVx9tMnKrvqgDpXknBW-dvOZ06KZCms5pmxPceyh6Fmx5-q7W_TLWy8lVE3O97IgdTT3vOkW1-Yfodt7LdlmeDgKcaSHx98fqnWufZGrDB_LgLbPNg/s320/Red%20Kirtle_14.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6j5omuMwuk7wnPDh8fSYldembT1zCZuIc1awRs5bZmLphJa0nBPxxFM0lKaS_cTv2IHa_7QDQXxF4b1chKMoamxKEkKQ9dph1I995bAvnVmSTCtoeQkrTscSMsI2Ns3haas68P3pp7K9vywBbj_ERqFBHLjPA3Nq89B_2YvGDMRnKxN-41x8EEunbmxg/s5517/Red%20Kirtle_13.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6j5omuMwuk7wnPDh8fSYldembT1zCZuIc1awRs5bZmLphJa0nBPxxFM0lKaS_cTv2IHa_7QDQXxF4b1chKMoamxKEkKQ9dph1I995bAvnVmSTCtoeQkrTscSMsI2Ns3haas68P3pp7K9vywBbj_ERqFBHLjPA3Nq89B_2YvGDMRnKxN-41x8EEunbmxg/s320/Red%20Kirtle_13.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF6YLGX0qVziGx-jVyByE7qqGN4WKv35cvgKS14yd1ufEOyGs0p1GNH7_etjG_9A1dKhTOpPNyOSHrYRCAhFpinCFZR7Ipk35ovqrBFgVtinI9ZlR9_VVr7xEZpjEriKvRPSQkWp_Vg_f5qHa_uFqZPpZL5MybhUIhSGSDLJ9200fy6N5-DUDJvGQzY14/s5517/Red%20Kirtle_15.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF6YLGX0qVziGx-jVyByE7qqGN4WKv35cvgKS14yd1ufEOyGs0p1GNH7_etjG_9A1dKhTOpPNyOSHrYRCAhFpinCFZR7Ipk35ovqrBFgVtinI9ZlR9_VVr7xEZpjEriKvRPSQkWp_Vg_f5qHa_uFqZPpZL5MybhUIhSGSDLJ9200fy6N5-DUDJvGQzY14/s320/Red%20Kirtle_15.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On to the accessories!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The linen headwear is a little different from the blue kirtle. Instead of the white trapezoidal veil, I opted for the split veil from my my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/dutch-split-tailed-coif.html">linen veil experiment</a>. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The look is similar, but has the option to be a bit more polished and structured.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi11ID2Hz-_RfX622HbQipjA0f3zFzFQiGyJDlRNvIYnp0XAJcfediqzxFjSLrBv8lwSnHtgSLn-VlaytWeIHIQ0RRqlzsDyuSpReQ4LQRqfdRQMRnEonqt9Bjj7oYgRbi3uOHtohIb-bWop4OfnLtJaY0y1El30sGWMgSg_tHZ-TfqXfziijrf2TA2vTQ/s2684/Cap_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi11ID2Hz-_RfX622HbQipjA0f3zFzFQiGyJDlRNvIYnp0XAJcfediqzxFjSLrBv8lwSnHtgSLn-VlaytWeIHIQ0RRqlzsDyuSpReQ4LQRqfdRQMRnEonqt9Bjj7oYgRbi3uOHtohIb-bWop4OfnLtJaY0y1El30sGWMgSg_tHZ-TfqXfziijrf2TA2vTQ/w160-h200/Cap_03.jpg" width="160" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxe6AKQ7HCs9-tK2abY4a_kgyt7hQXRQgeihOR0F3wS96Vha2aX-sDdy0jxr2-_B9PQCeYBCFe030qDM9MpsJ94cHrGxtt8OA2Dc6x8ANHnUZhInUkzWz5vAoGF6HD80ln4-DHLq-qGPXgKr2lDshUgbL7RNblC3Z1KXTISmrYktxF5u-aVsKOZvmlk8/s2684/Cap_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxe6AKQ7HCs9-tK2abY4a_kgyt7hQXRQgeihOR0F3wS96Vha2aX-sDdy0jxr2-_B9PQCeYBCFe030qDM9MpsJ94cHrGxtt8OA2Dc6x8ANHnUZhInUkzWz5vAoGF6HD80ln4-DHLq-qGPXgKr2lDshUgbL7RNblC3Z1KXTISmrYktxF5u-aVsKOZvmlk8/w160-h200/Cap_01.jpg" width="160" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDnu4xzWi8QN9pvtSfcnodCirywDHK_U9tlIO0yZ7whYeMQAg_wCcsOmFgPHCl8ePDEbUWkeoebNDNFVf2pVtIEer9Fd6KJvz1cZjTekdDs7VffcaReUAFDuwMKYbszZabrximf4BG0TejheJ-3urHSB_Ybz_9Swk3Tyzpd0nSJikfj7tEC1Zv6flJuE/s2684/Cap_09.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDnu4xzWi8QN9pvtSfcnodCirywDHK_U9tlIO0yZ7whYeMQAg_wCcsOmFgPHCl8ePDEbUWkeoebNDNFVf2pVtIEer9Fd6KJvz1cZjTekdDs7VffcaReUAFDuwMKYbszZabrximf4BG0TejheJ-3urHSB_Ybz_9Swk3Tyzpd0nSJikfj7tEC1Zv6flJuE/w160-h200/Cap_09.jpg" width="160" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZPZr4wCPmkOWcppitPd2SXt2zi1n_cXp_Z-5Vt3P8SKfgEuGUaGKquaMEUcldSK5OAefD0Drngy3Yu5f4B4Uffjt3phSu_slUT3zYFrPD8t2n2_U5LjVZBWNBa80Vkq8ekG2M0cGzOrHQi_TLgdeJsiFieDfwKURauuGbL4_SVrN641q7YUsSzqwZjRg/s2684/Cap_11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZPZr4wCPmkOWcppitPd2SXt2zi1n_cXp_Z-5Vt3P8SKfgEuGUaGKquaMEUcldSK5OAefD0Drngy3Yu5f4B4Uffjt3phSu_slUT3zYFrPD8t2n2_U5LjVZBWNBa80Vkq8ekG2M0cGzOrHQi_TLgdeJsiFieDfwKURauuGbL4_SVrN641q7YUsSzqwZjRg/w160-h200/Cap_11.jpg" width="160" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX_cj_vVu1OTdr6eLOLrvTHu7-KcPZehKDm5k-uvQD4KqIdlR-akhFqS9XAM5W0NnaD5PIUCv2WtD4TJbkz6bEazYoT2RAfaVfSElGMX7cHA-E8eC58sOJh5KSUCNjZDsKNrR1AogDSB17YfVyEpjP5VcinxRV7_kM8fXjq3e6SuzTSLLfXjDMfprL10I/s3304/CF0B9A28-5795-4F45-A6A1-A3784CB4AE57.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2618" data-original-width="3304" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX_cj_vVu1OTdr6eLOLrvTHu7-KcPZehKDm5k-uvQD4KqIdlR-akhFqS9XAM5W0NnaD5PIUCv2WtD4TJbkz6bEazYoT2RAfaVfSElGMX7cHA-E8eC58sOJh5KSUCNjZDsKNrR1AogDSB17YfVyEpjP5VcinxRV7_kM8fXjq3e6SuzTSLLfXjDMfprL10I/s320/CF0B9A28-5795-4F45-A6A1-A3784CB4AE57.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyWKHJ_P_KKWtRMDW89e3QHwHX4EqU167WVN5JeucXc8ep0MrOIaVCzlkvvpQhuiH0N7MUIlhaLjC-Eq6TLhdURXrGwSb2tAG1nuri13FhBa69rbljPnnFx8akoiL6DJZr1JKWlxhcV_FtRqYx8SowVHkIYkKGIltoHIHgkHYU3HpGa24p-mW19oAiO4/s3304/V-pattern%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2618" data-original-width="3304" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyWKHJ_P_KKWtRMDW89e3QHwHX4EqU167WVN5JeucXc8ep0MrOIaVCzlkvvpQhuiH0N7MUIlhaLjC-Eq6TLhdURXrGwSb2tAG1nuri13FhBa69rbljPnnFx8akoiL6DJZr1JKWlxhcV_FtRqYx8SowVHkIYkKGIltoHIHgkHYU3HpGa24p-mW19oAiO4/s320/V-pattern%20copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The over-partlet is the deep 'V' style seen in many Breughel paintings. It's made of black wool and lined in black linen.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTkFY1UkJhowjPE4lNpXEEpjxarfsM9Pm2b31QI5zm3_InJKMDBQ7rT41ZaaAIc3kMpFQwVcSDwPlCTvW3khF3CTTZMxUEUL2Zt5agaOhKFNnDi1AuzCXThLPlcTQejLNz1BvLzL1h3-xMPkUYLvRFTOqIyDVtIPsJLbTKZ6BQXgQCtk_MCr4ajpU/s2641/A1037718-60A2-4E9C-ACC8-C007C771227E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2561" data-original-width="2641" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTkFY1UkJhowjPE4lNpXEEpjxarfsM9Pm2b31QI5zm3_InJKMDBQ7rT41ZaaAIc3kMpFQwVcSDwPlCTvW3khF3CTTZMxUEUL2Zt5agaOhKFNnDi1AuzCXThLPlcTQejLNz1BvLzL1h3-xMPkUYLvRFTOqIyDVtIPsJLbTKZ6BQXgQCtk_MCr4ajpU/s320/A1037718-60A2-4E9C-ACC8-C007C771227E.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLC4Pv8sa_XDWjYcgzXrzzzH8FX-TKm6PwuPyQDQJOPFk0gumVrufH2s5FF_clGBuzRvXA-96zzaadVz6T9vSBiXGTJMXNnyhw_n4EeXZcUlaMA76y9tAO6BxUipZkxdV9dAi5zyvihtAgYuPF88wTUNolEYFungezLzfwfX__CgIQy18NI1PIhvFW/s2758/0555A1C2-E0BF-4C34-8EB0-09CF29096B87.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2677" data-original-width="2758" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLC4Pv8sa_XDWjYcgzXrzzzH8FX-TKm6PwuPyQDQJOPFk0gumVrufH2s5FF_clGBuzRvXA-96zzaadVz6T9vSBiXGTJMXNnyhw_n4EeXZcUlaMA76y9tAO6BxUipZkxdV9dAi5zyvihtAgYuPF88wTUNolEYFungezLzfwfX__CgIQy18NI1PIhvFW/s320/0555A1C2-E0BF-4C34-8EB0-09CF29096B87.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"> A small pewter hook from The Tudor Tailor is stitched to the point.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNLaKwQfBktxAkwB1GVTjHXlVK3jY__6fwYdKaVIyjC4MSmXYf-agP6iu72caWpqmkeCYfNwUUsbpJqIjSdRklqUolQtO0S_TxqyjElwOFnv1Y8tF5F8FqFPQXkP00ihTeGnPBdgUBlOtdGa5kIMnF_O11pNldbLJyKQV1fAaROBEvZFnOf7I-KTnF/s3053/669F6A82-90A3-450B-A77F-C78969F7D6A6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3053" data-original-width="3023" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNLaKwQfBktxAkwB1GVTjHXlVK3jY__6fwYdKaVIyjC4MSmXYf-agP6iu72caWpqmkeCYfNwUUsbpJqIjSdRklqUolQtO0S_TxqyjElwOFnv1Y8tF5F8FqFPQXkP00ihTeGnPBdgUBlOtdGa5kIMnF_O11pNldbLJyKQV1fAaROBEvZFnOf7I-KTnF/w198-h200/669F6A82-90A3-450B-A77F-C78969F7D6A6.jpeg" width="198" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZKfeXjUXe-zvHyr11WDp7o6BXYTmadWs8B8FdS0ExvJpwYicw_effZOtA20ykIleB9f78wob10VjqDckfkh-ki3hqGOfUDNL5mg8OCh2aNrUboBxggqXUbsrTkY5TVA3Ou5aa7FQZRPat_YggF8zQXLk3IO9VxrApAfyHPzMzT-EmQPrAV3Ddxop/s2984/D720A0F3-BD9C-49D5-A2B5-D2486B916918.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2984" data-original-width="2243" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZKfeXjUXe-zvHyr11WDp7o6BXYTmadWs8B8FdS0ExvJpwYicw_effZOtA20ykIleB9f78wob10VjqDckfkh-ki3hqGOfUDNL5mg8OCh2aNrUboBxggqXUbsrTkY5TVA3Ou5aa7FQZRPat_YggF8zQXLk3IO9VxrApAfyHPzMzT-EmQPrAV3Ddxop/w151-h200/D720A0F3-BD9C-49D5-A2B5-D2486B916918.jpeg" width="151" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_d_dvKxn-wBMua0pKNtQ-LAoCkSc-SovDGnHXA2ZbdcRTY3JX8R84-HZJlrJsBafqDw3jzK4c9nzH1xEBPQ8opk255fjR8k_wLxcsosAurXAbf4sMWW9NF7QFX9XlHm-F4av3G52y6lo88tolIAvOBo8pRaPmE9CluC4Y_4ASc4Vu0SmhHDIf8jM6/s3023/DEA54C8C-F7E0-4444-9FF6-13A7C967981A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2895" data-original-width="3023" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_d_dvKxn-wBMua0pKNtQ-LAoCkSc-SovDGnHXA2ZbdcRTY3JX8R84-HZJlrJsBafqDw3jzK4c9nzH1xEBPQ8opk255fjR8k_wLxcsosAurXAbf4sMWW9NF7QFX9XlHm-F4av3G52y6lo88tolIAvOBo8pRaPmE9CluC4Y_4ASc4Vu0SmhHDIf8jM6/s320/DEA54C8C-F7E0-4444-9FF6-13A7C967981A.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">This is worn over a white linen, under partlet.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(Which has been in the rotation since my blue <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2018/10/blue-trevelyon-gown.html">Trevelyon gown/kirtle </a>hybrid thingy)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZkiZh5SCMNDoJqGs3N62C6BtDJ-Gr0LpLZcw0AQVJizrinuZdmaK6w1c6rFFfaH0HDLDNikG4moFIp06DzUIOhsei6gXUN-YDIDkG9s4qBgMvdZFXQufvJeIwAsUkBFBJwehjAshwhDgcoPH1_7FBMX5CTHckrM0fIAlz983GUHSb8RqE4mBdcOqQ2bs/s2048/IMG_3958a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1883" data-original-width="2048" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZkiZh5SCMNDoJqGs3N62C6BtDJ-Gr0LpLZcw0AQVJizrinuZdmaK6w1c6rFFfaH0HDLDNikG4moFIp06DzUIOhsei6gXUN-YDIDkG9s4qBgMvdZFXQufvJeIwAsUkBFBJwehjAshwhDgcoPH1_7FBMX5CTHckrM0fIAlz983GUHSb8RqE4mBdcOqQ2bs/s320/IMG_3958a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Next is my classic black apron.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">This is a large rectangle of black linen (approximately 27"x36") and hemmed on all sides with a 1/4" hem.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The middle 12" are then whipstitched to a matching waistband.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQjR-0XTePE2bO0AaE_JVcsHNe8Zai4qb78rWf-y1p_2eDyjnUUmeImL-dSkjUas1XrMX6ZLP5WgKPtHrPtWRyM_SboGj9dxoRSeqpBU2ZbQj7cm7k1jx8a9WsmNKi4UIhUAoI5qc0tDGlcoS6jD_TJKyZI1zR86Cv1uQagMAkJwpgSAPNJPDA5Fr/s3763/FDB60408-09AE-444E-ACB6-EC1B9BB4A558.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2410" data-original-width="3763" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQjR-0XTePE2bO0AaE_JVcsHNe8Zai4qb78rWf-y1p_2eDyjnUUmeImL-dSkjUas1XrMX6ZLP5WgKPtHrPtWRyM_SboGj9dxoRSeqpBU2ZbQj7cm7k1jx8a9WsmNKi4UIhUAoI5qc0tDGlcoS6jD_TJKyZI1zR86Cv1uQagMAkJwpgSAPNJPDA5Fr/w400-h256/FDB60408-09AE-444E-ACB6-EC1B9BB4A558.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div></div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, pair of mustard yellow wool sleeves, lined in linen.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg5Lv6W5HLP6szIy12DBcYhrm1OCSp234Nu70Kbz-Rt5bcnWLoVJe2CcNA04yhQNpA8g1YUze9e0JHXgS22Vb_QR8QGoarh5xJv_griHzx3p6JfYxXx3oJboIFqYRxmkCPnv_mi_dRDHyco5iK8vUi3TupreCHuayKcRJjZe450EQ5Q9zxTevxTyFi/s2920/F7FFC6B1-1008-493C-8736-97BC07E1C3DC.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2846" data-original-width="2920" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg5Lv6W5HLP6szIy12DBcYhrm1OCSp234Nu70Kbz-Rt5bcnWLoVJe2CcNA04yhQNpA8g1YUze9e0JHXgS22Vb_QR8QGoarh5xJv_griHzx3p6JfYxXx3oJboIFqYRxmkCPnv_mi_dRDHyco5iK8vUi3TupreCHuayKcRJjZe450EQ5Q9zxTevxTyFi/s320/F7FFC6B1-1008-493C-8736-97BC07E1C3DC.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh99AGjtttGdfLryUfHWkHLRp26kRCaDU7ZaNR0hkzg_OkV_Ae18EVzkVO6vKu0c1-4UvhAXJTXYy8SX6V4suQEdzv1JqewQTDNpK9BAai6Yj3RZeMM651TI2J11D6odfzUKKOSRiXZoxnHyaOKUYfy4Z68pb-7Bo9JKLuDMxK8uasyTI_WmLMtO6XN/s3857/530838A3-9E43-4EE8-98D0-FE3B8B4C507C.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2503" data-original-width="3857" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh99AGjtttGdfLryUfHWkHLRp26kRCaDU7ZaNR0hkzg_OkV_Ae18EVzkVO6vKu0c1-4UvhAXJTXYy8SX6V4suQEdzv1JqewQTDNpK9BAai6Yj3RZeMM651TI2J11D6odfzUKKOSRiXZoxnHyaOKUYfy4Z68pb-7Bo9JKLuDMxK8uasyTI_WmLMtO6XN/s320/530838A3-9E43-4EE8-98D0-FE3B8B4C507C.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And that's it! Field of the Cloth of Gold kirtle is complete!</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirc0XgEl3fm-CPkaw5CKlp3Fwqut_O6BZDl4O5lCCfP1C_Cn-DKnpVhoA90tt_I2UuBC7aXYq81mX5VQtoPM1gEU6rhATY3IXJEExpVD89i7HZPybEhKyNS17L44W91IgGjd-m_pvEa9iv6b7Sc_gFBwejCXEi3AK1z7bD2wjeU2V6pZcpSQBV2WNfQwc/s5491/Red%20Kirtle_01A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5491" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirc0XgEl3fm-CPkaw5CKlp3Fwqut_O6BZDl4O5lCCfP1C_Cn-DKnpVhoA90tt_I2UuBC7aXYq81mX5VQtoPM1gEU6rhATY3IXJEExpVD89i7HZPybEhKyNS17L44W91IgGjd-m_pvEa9iv6b7Sc_gFBwejCXEi3AK1z7bD2wjeU2V6pZcpSQBV2WNfQwc/s320/Red%20Kirtle_01A.jpg" width="201" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif8MAHg5P4PkpaLPG2FOgtDZxMO4LBQkHH8h4VPeAl8Sbi4ASgPYJXnxHoPYVqaVCsD3AgQNCrSIRx2PngyuILnDQ5dN6bo-7M2DsEOGy-NGg2HDZxDBwhXYBTPznjrKmlMo8ATd5bAea4Y8Vw7FVtxiVleHauHUFxQ41VLc6V2rAnBr6LFeWrvVD9Ors/s5491/Red%20Kirtle_02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5491" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif8MAHg5P4PkpaLPG2FOgtDZxMO4LBQkHH8h4VPeAl8Sbi4ASgPYJXnxHoPYVqaVCsD3AgQNCrSIRx2PngyuILnDQ5dN6bo-7M2DsEOGy-NGg2HDZxDBwhXYBTPznjrKmlMo8ATd5bAea4Y8Vw7FVtxiVleHauHUFxQ41VLc6V2rAnBr6LFeWrvVD9Ors/s320/Red%20Kirtle_02.jpg" width="201" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggPzZB-1LhuyST6Ja9dhx0UElyR5Wy11nfcv_EZjgEHqn_7PyXffCLdngxcTZAmY95jlCb82o3Oiw7G5yHVJvUM31LyVqQasrXm7pNLck2upFOy9pAgAw4umDxtlhw4LuqfaHpYYsmI5mwk6JFKiNjzXlV8Q3yvc8WMgmw1PKhR969MjxfwENngDNOImc/s5491/Red%20Kirtle_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5491" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggPzZB-1LhuyST6Ja9dhx0UElyR5Wy11nfcv_EZjgEHqn_7PyXffCLdngxcTZAmY95jlCb82o3Oiw7G5yHVJvUM31LyVqQasrXm7pNLck2upFOy9pAgAw4umDxtlhw4LuqfaHpYYsmI5mwk6JFKiNjzXlV8Q3yvc8WMgmw1PKhR969MjxfwENngDNOImc/s320/Red%20Kirtle_03.jpg" width="201" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM01Q9ZCFOkHmIKnV8QoEQwklBf52jGfsg_Xsmr4yqLrnPuUU-xvMCxggdnSmHVkhnTdkuY7hZOuLHVPGK7mbQ6BCLXx_0mqP9UDt4ItnuWw0nAEwKTme2eLLv9LQJdWclcTD2chhPkicjvruBSXBYiHCxv4ZCXRPAVQ1ESsXkOcU8dmgJrP9w3_AxM-w/s5491/Red%20Kirtle_04.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5491" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM01Q9ZCFOkHmIKnV8QoEQwklBf52jGfsg_Xsmr4yqLrnPuUU-xvMCxggdnSmHVkhnTdkuY7hZOuLHVPGK7mbQ6BCLXx_0mqP9UDt4ItnuWw0nAEwKTme2eLLv9LQJdWclcTD2chhPkicjvruBSXBYiHCxv4ZCXRPAVQ1ESsXkOcU8dmgJrP9w3_AxM-w/s320/Red%20Kirtle_04.jpg" width="201" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge71-qXqL1z-AdowJnu5EiMnxuQm0vdJsWzyUP00Mapa1SGG8WgV6OTppzJVg_9jETJHWFNfUMzcT0-EL5rfNL9-v4ebMx6p6Eu1QHpP3n1VEz4gS4IgMFSghl_0sZimF3Z0yFgpzonWby-7qMFYRGVIZ_CTCKWUX0J9ekz085MZfAOwUJ1m_NUsRl3uU/s5491/Red%20Kirtle_05.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5491" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge71-qXqL1z-AdowJnu5EiMnxuQm0vdJsWzyUP00Mapa1SGG8WgV6OTppzJVg_9jETJHWFNfUMzcT0-EL5rfNL9-v4ebMx6p6Eu1QHpP3n1VEz4gS4IgMFSghl_0sZimF3Z0yFgpzonWby-7qMFYRGVIZ_CTCKWUX0J9ekz085MZfAOwUJ1m_NUsRl3uU/s320/Red%20Kirtle_05.jpg" width="201" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxphPw9LNi7x8-fpOgmZ9vBJOc9x8XqhIxo7l2dRZkRaW5lEq6-05kgLJOgplXpaPYzyvSUEVfcCDhyEpRVLo6HEHl-wGMHRMfxTzuD85lxpFVuFYnJPzJrGFFGz5paklueN5aeBxu6THi1JIVoJ0N2b8blEGT0MAl9DkBdWd8p9E9xSOZWrPaApVPouk/s5491/Red%20Kirtle_06.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5491" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxphPw9LNi7x8-fpOgmZ9vBJOc9x8XqhIxo7l2dRZkRaW5lEq6-05kgLJOgplXpaPYzyvSUEVfcCDhyEpRVLo6HEHl-wGMHRMfxTzuD85lxpFVuFYnJPzJrGFFGz5paklueN5aeBxu6THi1JIVoJ0N2b8blEGT0MAl9DkBdWd8p9E9xSOZWrPaApVPouk/s320/Red%20Kirtle_06.jpg" width="201" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI8yP-U1lb41VkqOCQEPGUsKrHks8B69fGoifa9RyNRqFP0CfyC2rMnr8_cyhz3gNQRVQ9EmJFd71O8_eIOt6NufZAxc9dj4iHCr4uGtZRWEamVJ6yHgqvCRpfxemBn69PeJRfPp8oPoSNR0z8S1sg3kSnmZXrupIL8BsSn1wEp5J10bZNpmJgV06yWGw/s5491/Red%20Kirtle_07.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5491" data-original-width="3446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI8yP-U1lb41VkqOCQEPGUsKrHks8B69fGoifa9RyNRqFP0CfyC2rMnr8_cyhz3gNQRVQ9EmJFd71O8_eIOt6NufZAxc9dj4iHCr4uGtZRWEamVJ6yHgqvCRpfxemBn69PeJRfPp8oPoSNR0z8S1sg3kSnmZXrupIL8BsSn1wEp5J10bZNpmJgV06yWGw/s320/Red%20Kirtle_07.jpg" width="201" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I really,<i> REALLY</i> love this look.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It turned out exactly as I was hoping and I absolutely adore the colours. I'm so happy to have been able to find equally saturated wools in the exact hues I was was looking for.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I also <i>LOVE </i>the back of the final outfit. The pleats and slight flare of the skirt in contrast to the dramatic V of the partlet really floats my boat!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I had originally meant for this to be a much longer post and had intended to take a bunch of additional photos with some of the accessories I had made for my blue kirtle....but it ended up being WAY too hot to stay dressed up for long (even indoors). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I think you can see it in my face, but I basically lost the will to live...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Also, the lighting just wasn't cooperating with me at all. It was a real struggle to just get these dozen or so photos to turn out (and that was with a lot of post processing to try to balance the light and dark levels).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So look forward to another Mix & Match post at some point in the future!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqjfgV8-tI4hafDSuWUtrG2bQ0BW1A9w9hNjhBwY5-Qs3qwuG6wL_EvPvpzRGnQaasmKcF6BPfzqEofDntxo5EJ4k0hJNNyYMOPXejxqsSCCqYLz-hN8u9pSr2MaVmfiV6E32bK-BGKCXkW7MkqPwQoG-5Yr_K98WtKqLk1j56x71GdgnazV4rHLZEwJA/s960/343973382_6249026391810803_7772604780460004742_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="960" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqjfgV8-tI4hafDSuWUtrG2bQ0BW1A9w9hNjhBwY5-Qs3qwuG6wL_EvPvpzRGnQaasmKcF6BPfzqEofDntxo5EJ4k0hJNNyYMOPXejxqsSCCqYLz-hN8u9pSr2MaVmfiV6E32bK-BGKCXkW7MkqPwQoG-5Yr_K98WtKqLk1j56x71GdgnazV4rHLZEwJA/s320/343973382_6249026391810803_7772604780460004742_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh97t0tXATryhLP-mLnxXPJs3qiGoAN0UcBNAuwcXZwJldz7oVYKlv3WCLWSi3MTMSaxaeeCHRqROp59hu0ZPKRHwSPkxD-zVUL4kkEQgHd1zeQmg-ZAkp4jGIb4XA26odyoamSOa29LN7fcQl4LqM3IfSB8ebI9M4Pk8SRKjCmW0Z2lPDTQq0eOCWTGEo/s3347/sleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2209" data-original-width="3347" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh97t0tXATryhLP-mLnxXPJs3qiGoAN0UcBNAuwcXZwJldz7oVYKlv3WCLWSi3MTMSaxaeeCHRqROp59hu0ZPKRHwSPkxD-zVUL4kkEQgHd1zeQmg-ZAkp4jGIb4XA26odyoamSOa29LN7fcQl4LqM3IfSB8ebI9M4Pk8SRKjCmW0Z2lPDTQq0eOCWTGEo/s320/sleeves.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Pattern: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-<a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/">The Tudor Tailor</a> (book and/or ready-made pattern...but really, the bodice is mostly self drafted at this point)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/482976216/the-queens-servants-gentlewomens-dress">The Queen's Servants</a> (book and/or ready-made pattern)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Fabric:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Red wool from <a href="https://www.bblackandsons.com/">B.Blacks & Sons</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Yellow wool from <a href="https://dorrmillstore.com/">Dorr Mill</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Tan "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Red "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Hemp/cotton muslin for interlining (10.5) from <a href="http://www.hemptraders.com/">Hemp Traders</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Muslin for mockup (also from Hemp Traders, but any muslin should do)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Trim and Notions:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black cotton tape (1/4") for lacing from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Thread:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Red silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Mustard silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White cotton thread (silk finish) for linens</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Boning:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-7mm Plastic coated spring steel bones (4) from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=68&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-7mm Synthetic whalebone also from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=137&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Other Supplies:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Swedish pattern paper from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sewable-Swedish-Tracing-Paper-Inches/dp/B000PNEWVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383452754&sr=8-1&keywords=swiss+pattern+paper">Amazon</a>. (This stuff is great! You can iron it!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Pattern weights</div></div></div></div><div><br /></div></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-49143515125693949162023-06-02T12:12:00.009-07:002023-06-11T18:10:50.257-07:00Blue Kirtle "Mix & Match 2: Medieval (ish) Madness"<div style="text-align: center;"> ***</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFyl9J5w7v68EcETSdd794stufLGj2Sv-uu0eeWbNiGTOXLvVqhq3STPHFOZZf0dqod_W3MzSrAKGfqxRZuAFQFtVAk4u6UNSXEO1CUHDGLAoXw9vMOCT2uYO45cJK2rUtZpVfM_d1Eg6IoxTvJ8Kr1StYYXlWYCZhTAZOiK0HErMcZZK03SCQ4lpZ/s5429/BK_62.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFyl9J5w7v68EcETSdd794stufLGj2Sv-uu0eeWbNiGTOXLvVqhq3STPHFOZZf0dqod_W3MzSrAKGfqxRZuAFQFtVAk4u6UNSXEO1CUHDGLAoXw9vMOCT2uYO45cJK2rUtZpVfM_d1Eg6IoxTvJ8Kr1StYYXlWYCZhTAZOiK0HErMcZZK03SCQ4lpZ/w130-h200/BK_62.jpg" width="130" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPendZKqvV7A7Ny3l_r1Y6wSlDgmfL7EVsVrfpQ2rv9sXwpFXCTZW5i86kjyuLTvEzwQZkfgVjXdQnJY6iZJlthBpaANWo7qnimu3zSJ638ClyUf0iNArus6R3xbQWumSy5hCrPEf9Dvwl2W41k-VgWhLAceoAYf6_wtbwcoOYr3Az93VDHomudBTo/s5421/BK_48.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPendZKqvV7A7Ny3l_r1Y6wSlDgmfL7EVsVrfpQ2rv9sXwpFXCTZW5i86kjyuLTvEzwQZkfgVjXdQnJY6iZJlthBpaANWo7qnimu3zSJ638ClyUf0iNArus6R3xbQWumSy5hCrPEf9Dvwl2W41k-VgWhLAceoAYf6_wtbwcoOYr3Az93VDHomudBTo/w131-h200/BK_48.jpg" width="131" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_hXYWaQ-Dtcms14sXfEXtHkI9W_szvyAmIWkm300KKykMlkoaX365Tw7QVN6SuFF34kH2l-9Rz8z1F7lwYg6x84k2AiXZWrXTj3pNisPHVrigre63jGZLzPqIE7T1CgOVymKNz1KT6LXHb3jWjN3tbqxoBsPvLrXcq1GrCqmVSKW0TF9c0NtguQ7I/s5429/BK_57.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_hXYWaQ-Dtcms14sXfEXtHkI9W_szvyAmIWkm300KKykMlkoaX365Tw7QVN6SuFF34kH2l-9Rz8z1F7lwYg6x84k2AiXZWrXTj3pNisPHVrigre63jGZLzPqIE7T1CgOVymKNz1KT6LXHb3jWjN3tbqxoBsPvLrXcq1GrCqmVSKW0TF9c0NtguQ7I/w130-h200/BK_57.jpg" width="130" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJs8RU-gITm7GQc5O8XVV1FXPdp5YBrSBYIX1vWpvPY5w1q1In7YvONh4KpHqvxwUVHtxh2yg-E0Kg43PR_ABei_SlvtcXRO0PmtQxIm2UXLQIet3uTheGCKjvTxUK0lrvCrgFXnPpejtlvGRGPZr7OXoO6nI2ADvHBQxXA5rzrmYoowmKVt2pA3tP/s5421/BK_49.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJs8RU-gITm7GQc5O8XVV1FXPdp5YBrSBYIX1vWpvPY5w1q1In7YvONh4KpHqvxwUVHtxh2yg-E0Kg43PR_ABei_SlvtcXRO0PmtQxIm2UXLQIet3uTheGCKjvTxUK0lrvCrgFXnPpejtlvGRGPZr7OXoO6nI2ADvHBQxXA5rzrmYoowmKVt2pA3tP/w131-h200/BK_49.jpg" width="131" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtnXsJjFbJwdv1NXgEt6XVZWWdVenk7pxgU8tljVJw-1NZUSr5e8k60UqXzopmSb9EjYVr9GPLKah7rnyK616Emcc2zy9Y1ov0iG06rtS9mvEHq3JaDgXoFb535jbtJxLZPT5ZZJfa4DAulMhBlKRS-PetX_Xs4e4bDwtJl8kznJoTRRScXUjjniZe/s5549/BK_33.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5549" data-original-width="3529" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtnXsJjFbJwdv1NXgEt6XVZWWdVenk7pxgU8tljVJw-1NZUSr5e8k60UqXzopmSb9EjYVr9GPLKah7rnyK616Emcc2zy9Y1ov0iG06rtS9mvEHq3JaDgXoFb535jbtJxLZPT5ZZJfa4DAulMhBlKRS-PetX_Xs4e4bDwtJl8kznJoTRRScXUjjniZe/w127-h200/BK_33.jpg" width="127" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PVUV4RRKaTZWYhX0bJ6UnwhoSAJb8G_8L436VJDcmDI3HYQtr0j279JNQ42KXvkNshOqzXo0L_47btw2OXpRLMdH0C4qGciqGLqKMmOdifr3NHesxQQqxfawFjcW4hee72lVPoXo0Zad_TD2_6LN_ivD1v08jd2BVRTpkz6aOEK6MAiTriMAnFQh/s5421/BK_52.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PVUV4RRKaTZWYhX0bJ6UnwhoSAJb8G_8L436VJDcmDI3HYQtr0j279JNQ42KXvkNshOqzXo0L_47btw2OXpRLMdH0C4qGciqGLqKMmOdifr3NHesxQQqxfawFjcW4hee72lVPoXo0Zad_TD2_6LN_ivD1v08jd2BVRTpkz6aOEK6MAiTriMAnFQh/w131-h200/BK_52.jpg" width="131" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Welcome to the second of my "Mix & Match" posts for my Blue Kirtle. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The insanity continues!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">As I mentioned in my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/05/blue-kirtle-mix-match.html">last post</a>, I'd taken some additional photos of my new kirtle but these quickly devolved into playing ahistorical, Medieval dress-up...so I thought they'd be better off in their own post.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">It started innocently enough with this image:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9eiRBpPs1krE4vqWK124-6O6IOHQcBXmmVQNav2oHsSWiHKZZAK1-jBtYTTX93Dsw6Jj0ujodvo6iUH56Dlv0OmIX8XbvBWlTlAITvRkg3pND2IaRIUkdTWwLKlExufXshochs2nHNp_tOveoKAcSdywobZ8zjxaL82c0ueTPkuDqV3GO43_GCXOW/s895/1A1A3155-27A4-4391-8C80-540139F91463.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="659" data-original-width="895" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9eiRBpPs1krE4vqWK124-6O6IOHQcBXmmVQNav2oHsSWiHKZZAK1-jBtYTTX93Dsw6Jj0ujodvo6iUH56Dlv0OmIX8XbvBWlTlAITvRkg3pND2IaRIUkdTWwLKlExufXshochs2nHNp_tOveoKAcSdywobZ8zjxaL82c0ueTPkuDqV3GO43_GCXOW/w400-h295/1A1A3155-27A4-4391-8C80-540139F91463.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The woman is wearing a blue gown, lined in black on top of a light blue petticoat or kirtle.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The foundation layer is a very good (if not exact) colour match to my kirtle, so this is a look I could easily replicate in the future...but in the meantime I thought it might be fun to do to a nod this this outfit with the accessories I had at hand.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The look of a full length gown could be (vaguely) approximated by the addition of matching blue over-sleeves and the black lining with a gathered up, black apron.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLBtG3y_iBXA09ST9WcIs0I08k7Mn__H_hsG_kJCuttz39ttP-mFlRIvnGiRCYuhbAwNDXa6jzmzeEEKMDttsdOT8LpRkSba-64r_LXtR1hPMJv-OkoJjbupFzWOG_OakvSYxngxnWkezkzFgYaAOIqqqQdRXp5cS0RY5SIbmHOR4RDikGO2ltHXSJ/s5429/BK_53.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLBtG3y_iBXA09ST9WcIs0I08k7Mn__H_hsG_kJCuttz39ttP-mFlRIvnGiRCYuhbAwNDXa6jzmzeEEKMDttsdOT8LpRkSba-64r_LXtR1hPMJv-OkoJjbupFzWOG_OakvSYxngxnWkezkzFgYaAOIqqqQdRXp5cS0RY5SIbmHOR4RDikGO2ltHXSJ/s320/BK_53.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvahidJy8jxzFHNUQPhtIL09Fx1CZwfiNLuUl2G0eNZQKw0_mTeK6Uccbu83ydiB9Aos--omWWvugA-48io-GG6PqUjDV1GReHZ4h6vwMAv84K7Unn1FTHU2CX8ukE4tAVN6TXBuV8SYQ3CCr9jW17o2k2jUY25-fAtJfIggdN5h9EwrDZ_4scp5PW/s5429/BK_77.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvahidJy8jxzFHNUQPhtIL09Fx1CZwfiNLuUl2G0eNZQKw0_mTeK6Uccbu83ydiB9Aos--omWWvugA-48io-GG6PqUjDV1GReHZ4h6vwMAv84K7Unn1FTHU2CX8ukE4tAVN6TXBuV8SYQ3CCr9jW17o2k2jUY25-fAtJfIggdN5h9EwrDZ_4scp5PW/s320/BK_77.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">That just left the headwear.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I already had a linen yard square to use as a veil so I just needed a red hat.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I assume it would have been felted, knit cap with a turned up brim. I didn't have time to make or purchase one, so thought I'd experimenting with a felt cloche blank from Amazon.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio3aaSHZ2Szx_kyIuY4CEX7p0jmeEezbR53lZWKblxIhqKBNYlB5AC-MefXrVqfXB2ozyxhdY0qicnvrTVNAgSb_4bc4n9I7iVyJ7XeSqXEnfsTt0A96oY1cvRTNqLZKFTAlQGUEekvS3QlU3AKDRsr2YGMH6CQdhozQsGT5xBywS_gO-yo24j3WYH/s3795/752F361F-DB6D-4C21-9CCE-4AD512214C13.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3795" data-original-width="2756" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio3aaSHZ2Szx_kyIuY4CEX7p0jmeEezbR53lZWKblxIhqKBNYlB5AC-MefXrVqfXB2ozyxhdY0qicnvrTVNAgSb_4bc4n9I7iVyJ7XeSqXEnfsTt0A96oY1cvRTNqLZKFTAlQGUEekvS3QlU3AKDRsr2YGMH6CQdhozQsGT5xBywS_gO-yo24j3WYH/s320/752F361F-DB6D-4C21-9CCE-4AD512214C13.jpeg" width="232" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkug9zZywEiKTQWo5y9gfyFAuLdyBB4FSrZzxSmQ2X6FBQlBI2ETbsJc-8OT1dMhjE9HA-OWgCrVIk2u7Em9oCpCJjms_9XAwLSM2fLrR6GDVuBLkBw9K0OxJ-ojOhIaeIkXOltL6C4kosp2QcORnOQghiCPTWkSsfbh6g3KZR3qlVpvQ8kCWbQyQL/s3857/5C851541-5827-4E78-9BDF-8C516CE2143B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3857" data-original-width="2569" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkug9zZywEiKTQWo5y9gfyFAuLdyBB4FSrZzxSmQ2X6FBQlBI2ETbsJc-8OT1dMhjE9HA-OWgCrVIk2u7Em9oCpCJjms_9XAwLSM2fLrR6GDVuBLkBw9K0OxJ-ojOhIaeIkXOltL6C4kosp2QcORnOQghiCPTWkSsfbh6g3KZR3qlVpvQ8kCWbQyQL/s320/5C851541-5827-4E78-9BDF-8C516CE2143B.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But how to block it? </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now...I have seen the hat in the inspiration image specially called a late bycocket hat in some online articles. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To my eye I could see how it could be interpreted either way, so thought it would be fun to try for a traditional bycocket shape.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Given that I've never really blocked a hat from scratch before and know literally nothing about this style, the result isn't terrible as you would think!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYbV15-BroYoel-PJjq3pSCYiMEwis1dbbABbVj7kxZc49g0P75euAKhBhatz1KNs_TIqYQs9Xxx72xvbD9VQLRbTpI5r--FmHMputpnSfRdudbUJrdLUUv_tu9Hi1cSx-60GoRb55YzAzNPKlu-DznkSoApyP71DdOkR1edAfDmfQ6_WiurtZqrpm/s3912/hat1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3912" data-original-width="2809" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYbV15-BroYoel-PJjq3pSCYiMEwis1dbbABbVj7kxZc49g0P75euAKhBhatz1KNs_TIqYQs9Xxx72xvbD9VQLRbTpI5r--FmHMputpnSfRdudbUJrdLUUv_tu9Hi1cSx-60GoRb55YzAzNPKlu-DznkSoApyP71DdOkR1edAfDmfQ6_WiurtZqrpm/s320/hat1.jpg" width="230" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgheeyv84kYeMykGGmGrpmaG4oP-GubWXqv50-S-FtUIIkHjgGE0O7dPnbjnaj7-hSKIMmpgZ6DUEsn7lRk1dNYClI13zDEKasJDw_H7gDG4pv2QPI1pmXcqIM3MCqQzkZwR2ivRGctqyqDH3ggh7xA08ilYDEPCSn18m1pc1d1UKdm-W-0_qd0fMLF/s3912/hat2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3912" data-original-width="2809" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgheeyv84kYeMykGGmGrpmaG4oP-GubWXqv50-S-FtUIIkHjgGE0O7dPnbjnaj7-hSKIMmpgZ6DUEsn7lRk1dNYClI13zDEKasJDw_H7gDG4pv2QPI1pmXcqIM3MCqQzkZwR2ivRGctqyqDH3ggh7xA08ilYDEPCSn18m1pc1d1UKdm-W-0_qd0fMLF/s320/hat2.jpg" width="230" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4beWKq9QbHvCpl-pLMpbbJYRZguxk2iCEFC3CLR0yUygjHJnVpq6DAxa4YN5iGqWv2ZszB4iJIBoqJEA22HxI6XTlb-D4Spu46APwKe2bhOKqqvsld7XhSLKSk64MrFQc3HDjP_ef2-rUE4QGoH4F6K94tHjA9qhj8ueiwMkHaNDwVEgU23LNdQG1/s3912/hat3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3912" data-original-width="2809" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4beWKq9QbHvCpl-pLMpbbJYRZguxk2iCEFC3CLR0yUygjHJnVpq6DAxa4YN5iGqWv2ZszB4iJIBoqJEA22HxI6XTlb-D4Spu46APwKe2bhOKqqvsld7XhSLKSk64MrFQc3HDjP_ef2-rUE4QGoH4F6K94tHjA9qhj8ueiwMkHaNDwVEgU23LNdQG1/s320/hat3.jpg" width="230" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Having finished the hat I'm not totally convinced that this is what the image shows...but I do think it looks pretty snazzy!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On to the photos!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_hXYWaQ-Dtcms14sXfEXtHkI9W_szvyAmIWkm300KKykMlkoaX365Tw7QVN6SuFF34kH2l-9Rz8z1F7lwYg6x84k2AiXZWrXTj3pNisPHVrigre63jGZLzPqIE7T1CgOVymKNz1KT6LXHb3jWjN3tbqxoBsPvLrXcq1GrCqmVSKW0TF9c0NtguQ7I/s5429/BK_57.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_hXYWaQ-Dtcms14sXfEXtHkI9W_szvyAmIWkm300KKykMlkoaX365Tw7QVN6SuFF34kH2l-9Rz8z1F7lwYg6x84k2AiXZWrXTj3pNisPHVrigre63jGZLzPqIE7T1CgOVymKNz1KT6LXHb3jWjN3tbqxoBsPvLrXcq1GrCqmVSKW0TF9c0NtguQ7I/s320/BK_57.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIsbKg6Ms0PQVmWdsmZn7le_JHrYo13WBCQo-e7OAl3dwbuAE53h4hRpmbwHPkQZPmU0bMJiar2Wkp-ZT38AMOKOtsrlIJ02pSVyYoYMLNjaFkeCCWl5W_VTGWymHnjPK2uBik8PgRNaVm4fJsKda6Kguyt3D-caGYHPKsM6VHnTYCpjbcCjbxRBHI/s5429/BK_55.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIsbKg6Ms0PQVmWdsmZn7le_JHrYo13WBCQo-e7OAl3dwbuAE53h4hRpmbwHPkQZPmU0bMJiar2Wkp-ZT38AMOKOtsrlIJ02pSVyYoYMLNjaFkeCCWl5W_VTGWymHnjPK2uBik8PgRNaVm4fJsKda6Kguyt3D-caGYHPKsM6VHnTYCpjbcCjbxRBHI/s320/BK_55.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfT2t6TCf21QmhgBuAQA9_uAXGdtAxaRRTGqwm5_MWQY67WTLHygga7EQ3S7nlqNMztc1tGUcNeGsMdxNO2Gf42dK-dvcxdhLFtMiAf4_zbKSK6y-kqZ4jSYGSHIB9EDbsZ36CONx_pK-V1RVPyWDqMblOpiWyyqwvgO13Ai7E3lVAD45Gt0jq5BA/s5429/BK_56.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfT2t6TCf21QmhgBuAQA9_uAXGdtAxaRRTGqwm5_MWQY67WTLHygga7EQ3S7nlqNMztc1tGUcNeGsMdxNO2Gf42dK-dvcxdhLFtMiAf4_zbKSK6y-kqZ4jSYGSHIB9EDbsZ36CONx_pK-V1RVPyWDqMblOpiWyyqwvgO13Ai7E3lVAD45Gt0jq5BA/s320/BK_56.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirHoNCu4THr9pCFSJIinu-0KOeKCE4HjHq_ZFS1xykcxdpn4UYq9XVTqWAXutxpJV7b86Kd8lNAYUELK1zc5JW_3PsY251m52OODHwYohNrU7_PhQgSoVjqKHAzZvec8NM47RXqN_qxNQHJE_04yNrPDu6KFs4LqwkaMWlSCUzwILJ3z3sNTY2BYTw/s5429/BK_54.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirHoNCu4THr9pCFSJIinu-0KOeKCE4HjHq_ZFS1xykcxdpn4UYq9XVTqWAXutxpJV7b86Kd8lNAYUELK1zc5JW_3PsY251m52OODHwYohNrU7_PhQgSoVjqKHAzZvec8NM47RXqN_qxNQHJE_04yNrPDu6KFs4LqwkaMWlSCUzwILJ3z3sNTY2BYTw/s320/BK_54.jpg" width="208" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Overall the result isn't bad. </div><div style="text-align: left;">I mean...it's totally and completely WRONG in every detail, but it has the overall vibe of the inspiration image.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Sort of.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Kind of...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Maybe not.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>ANYWAY...!</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;">Now that I had a new hat to play with, I decide to just throw a bunch of accessories together and see what happens.</div><div style="text-align: left;">I know nothing about clothing pre-1500, so I don't even know how wrong I am in what follows. I suspect it's a lot.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The first look is a bit match-y, with red sleeves and and natural/undyed linen.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKpF1X8R93OomYbaJldbsdeGk5zjUYEKY_NZQLocXlZwxJSA5Uo6rD5Ci3p1KnA8HNzhg3UrRblk1PqbcYgrBWBJcv7OtAcGksmifgVkL3a5n73dBOJqIMRPruTRvDGHHT8-cCpTAs1UzzvooG-dvJrKcwzagfYmi0xKZFOnmaskP0B2sgNqdWpJuZ/s5549/BK_32.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5549" data-original-width="3529" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKpF1X8R93OomYbaJldbsdeGk5zjUYEKY_NZQLocXlZwxJSA5Uo6rD5Ci3p1KnA8HNzhg3UrRblk1PqbcYgrBWBJcv7OtAcGksmifgVkL3a5n73dBOJqIMRPruTRvDGHHT8-cCpTAs1UzzvooG-dvJrKcwzagfYmi0xKZFOnmaskP0B2sgNqdWpJuZ/s320/BK_32.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWJl99NFIn-cVvNNluGo_ZTdENp8N3148n3Tm8PAAJ89sr3FrDZNtNiySjh9ZS2-g_Qs8L94vpLS7Pwl84TnfHV90ez6KrySZtgzrVBqNLTp-XZRBq5TpIzYzDV0xejAALFwGG7juZ_FHdXG4m3HHf2MHYn1ryrFiS8RnBRBbDCYyVrkY4p98nYGVu/s5549/BK_30.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5549" data-original-width="3529" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWJl99NFIn-cVvNNluGo_ZTdENp8N3148n3Tm8PAAJ89sr3FrDZNtNiySjh9ZS2-g_Qs8L94vpLS7Pwl84TnfHV90ez6KrySZtgzrVBqNLTp-XZRBq5TpIzYzDV0xejAALFwGG7juZ_FHdXG4m3HHf2MHYn1ryrFiS8RnBRBbDCYyVrkY4p98nYGVu/s320/BK_30.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZF5Jw0QZDgGht9IFEUJ3CruY4X85urKzfKDf7X0EGpXLKzFdXJKfXK19oC4GBsGm03qQvTUHE97AvENtzt0Ju_OEPUMyOTo9i_xQ7Nd77DxpM5Myuiq0eDSnOfmz6QeO9OYX2Xis9zy9yePm_fxnTJFT_L3dS1Z9_uJFjs3uZug0Xvcp8649UpkIf/s5549/BK_29.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5549" data-original-width="3529" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZF5Jw0QZDgGht9IFEUJ3CruY4X85urKzfKDf7X0EGpXLKzFdXJKfXK19oC4GBsGm03qQvTUHE97AvENtzt0Ju_OEPUMyOTo9i_xQ7Nd77DxpM5Myuiq0eDSnOfmz6QeO9OYX2Xis9zy9yePm_fxnTJFT_L3dS1Z9_uJFjs3uZug0Xvcp8649UpkIf/s320/BK_29.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijIFTMAx5DGLu0JE4qcwU4C7YtILaoC79a7IA5fAWNu9wyLjBRAA3AhrFr389pIdmlhM0-1i5tQw1uki8UjTn-35VaFvwNlB2mkWDSOuVOSHcxhind7QRWxnwiGLPWJYamQi6Tpf-SuaQWESeZeLXxESLkFsqHrBI7Xl6poq9hxBF86lR2WRDecQ03/s5549/BK_31.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5549" data-original-width="3529" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijIFTMAx5DGLu0JE4qcwU4C7YtILaoC79a7IA5fAWNu9wyLjBRAA3AhrFr389pIdmlhM0-1i5tQw1uki8UjTn-35VaFvwNlB2mkWDSOuVOSHcxhind7QRWxnwiGLPWJYamQi6Tpf-SuaQWESeZeLXxESLkFsqHrBI7Xl6poq9hxBF86lR2WRDecQ03/s320/BK_31.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtnXsJjFbJwdv1NXgEt6XVZWWdVenk7pxgU8tljVJw-1NZUSr5e8k60UqXzopmSb9EjYVr9GPLKah7rnyK616Emcc2zy9Y1ov0iG06rtS9mvEHq3JaDgXoFb535jbtJxLZPT5ZZJfa4DAulMhBlKRS-PetX_Xs4e4bDwtJl8kznJoTRRScXUjjniZe/s5549/BK_33.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5549" data-original-width="3529" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtnXsJjFbJwdv1NXgEt6XVZWWdVenk7pxgU8tljVJw-1NZUSr5e8k60UqXzopmSb9EjYVr9GPLKah7rnyK616Emcc2zy9Y1ov0iG06rtS9mvEHq3JaDgXoFb535jbtJxLZPT5ZZJfa4DAulMhBlKRS-PetX_Xs4e4bDwtJl8kznJoTRRScXUjjniZe/s320/BK_33.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRa4wOvY9tJ5AnZ-8BlhzTayX7voj0PMt5vuIi3-Z2PT64nBRooszEmjoaEOhnreA0jnXtKYWA26mBif5CPFwO7sDrNLSGLNi9zn_Dw4jrExVA3KEaq8b4QjxL8BSUjx3oEThjAs74KXPAKFj0Xm3KWMLEexiEjP0pduxVRHfygqk58e1tLhxJJELT/s5549/BK_34.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5549" data-original-width="3529" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRa4wOvY9tJ5AnZ-8BlhzTayX7voj0PMt5vuIi3-Z2PT64nBRooszEmjoaEOhnreA0jnXtKYWA26mBif5CPFwO7sDrNLSGLNi9zn_Dw4jrExVA3KEaq8b4QjxL8BSUjx3oEThjAs74KXPAKFj0Xm3KWMLEexiEjP0pduxVRHfygqk58e1tLhxJJELT/s320/BK_34.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBD3iyyRfJs2-ZC8POoKr9fudQy4XbRvndR8HfSUTO6Zg17mL9Gc7kH82w2kdKfh1tNdoRbaUKjn5GBAbb5xZwcPqOBA3t52EqIduYBv9tMv1evsQV2A-yGh6vnlqAsmPrZGU5tzbMU1CYYZN2Dvhv3bdHDlqoDP_m4jn3Cq9hAy_T-ZeCyY3TEmZI/s5549/BK_35.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5549" data-original-width="3529" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBD3iyyRfJs2-ZC8POoKr9fudQy4XbRvndR8HfSUTO6Zg17mL9Gc7kH82w2kdKfh1tNdoRbaUKjn5GBAbb5xZwcPqOBA3t52EqIduYBv9tMv1evsQV2A-yGh6vnlqAsmPrZGU5tzbMU1CYYZN2Dvhv3bdHDlqoDP_m4jn3Cq9hAy_T-ZeCyY3TEmZI/s320/BK_35.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtnR9OvHCAVGZbBzE-nOi5e6JOKilfVEJazR10_uEmv29q1YVSzgx1aWEQOqV_kxSFkLAAx3h4jaXeshVX0ej6zs1n3WJxZcuv6f5QnDk7E__e0E5rpf-bEmdADVtFR8o9poHbucFZclXOUxRv-Pdno13HY7tidqgx1XAgY7UHFgVtSawXUVWm7sok/s5549/BK_37.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5549" data-original-width="3529" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtnR9OvHCAVGZbBzE-nOi5e6JOKilfVEJazR10_uEmv29q1YVSzgx1aWEQOqV_kxSFkLAAx3h4jaXeshVX0ej6zs1n3WJxZcuv6f5QnDk7E__e0E5rpf-bEmdADVtFR8o9poHbucFZclXOUxRv-Pdno13HY7tidqgx1XAgY7UHFgVtSawXUVWm7sok/s320/BK_37.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxURmKYs57szOKbbCw84bvBXTLQvhJR7NlAg1RShvxWPGFfA7lPS5ycQ3hOzLb5pKAqV12IZXuvJuTPuUB9jYJDDjj-Vzne8yYyFNgd0UHwrha244QMpeMbVNfnUVf0kPiOmQpwJux8xIY8pUNuJ59-rvuF7gPt_Dbaq3v0xQ8yrH721_23OWCF_YE/s5549/BK_36.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5549" data-original-width="3529" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxURmKYs57szOKbbCw84bvBXTLQvhJR7NlAg1RShvxWPGFfA7lPS5ycQ3hOzLb5pKAqV12IZXuvJuTPuUB9jYJDDjj-Vzne8yYyFNgd0UHwrha244QMpeMbVNfnUVf0kPiOmQpwJux8xIY8pUNuJ59-rvuF7gPt_Dbaq3v0xQ8yrH721_23OWCF_YE/s320/BK_36.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And again, with green sleeves!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb7ckg5HbFMhyAZoasVA3CFmbSFHEdYQ69YA3GrTPwbCQ9eO9V6jXScCxR3fO7w-0vNZHz0beW0HK38pUNDo6l-8dh0GB1-A-GTIpzm1SlJBE0uga9gOrlzXeHOQNzcPHqGAF8oUGGW3jza3JSw2wCE8qlDD9sRlL_J1DgMiC_o9kUOtRm9qZDaU2U/s5557/BK_38.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb7ckg5HbFMhyAZoasVA3CFmbSFHEdYQ69YA3GrTPwbCQ9eO9V6jXScCxR3fO7w-0vNZHz0beW0HK38pUNDo6l-8dh0GB1-A-GTIpzm1SlJBE0uga9gOrlzXeHOQNzcPHqGAF8oUGGW3jza3JSw2wCE8qlDD9sRlL_J1DgMiC_o9kUOtRm9qZDaU2U/s320/BK_38.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI9cxxINZr7iixmgSGbx13DrevpIDu6Fcncj8s5063D4DlnwVK8TZ3ju_fc9QBVg134r6WLTEEDIizCibIvfOb_bbodc8qboItx4XjYD2qF2_NQ-TeWb-aNmmIZn3jIs8JI1wxA9iFGWLd1wtPimGnaG_VkHQiAHGERQJFS6wN1phqyF6elRLOJUg9/s5557/BK_39.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI9cxxINZr7iixmgSGbx13DrevpIDu6Fcncj8s5063D4DlnwVK8TZ3ju_fc9QBVg134r6WLTEEDIizCibIvfOb_bbodc8qboItx4XjYD2qF2_NQ-TeWb-aNmmIZn3jIs8JI1wxA9iFGWLd1wtPimGnaG_VkHQiAHGERQJFS6wN1phqyF6elRLOJUg9/s320/BK_39.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWtyVjDxsX8BR7A9biR8ucjKgt01s2bqKmLhi5qvnwhxL0Q9AlTH_Cyc-nxF4ekkfxICq9TG6C38uLiMXtLNIKJiqxoSq7wA5QxomLJKbPPbryfCrQsJx8NTYc9kiK29NRzBmK_ovpO9ZpTzcKGFp4E3lmccblQfUEymb2wfbk9uwiIkxAlhO4RRN3/s5557/BK_40.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWtyVjDxsX8BR7A9biR8ucjKgt01s2bqKmLhi5qvnwhxL0Q9AlTH_Cyc-nxF4ekkfxICq9TG6C38uLiMXtLNIKJiqxoSq7wA5QxomLJKbPPbryfCrQsJx8NTYc9kiK29NRzBmK_ovpO9ZpTzcKGFp4E3lmccblQfUEymb2wfbk9uwiIkxAlhO4RRN3/s320/BK_40.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1cuPSdRYxK7BkiDZwunWGZhxpq7D-qZAuZpjyJDcso_-q1-yp-ML7nqspE4M_rae9_OmNiGXMs8NKPhJDaLrud6rq3Em3_l1lL8689kkg-fSjaCnznenWgOdRpaiGcoZptByBCtHDs5W-LMppVFXyvtfd-h97GrKOXiprH1OqimizoFjw0JMCKavh/s5557/BK_41.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1cuPSdRYxK7BkiDZwunWGZhxpq7D-qZAuZpjyJDcso_-q1-yp-ML7nqspE4M_rae9_OmNiGXMs8NKPhJDaLrud6rq3Em3_l1lL8689kkg-fSjaCnznenWgOdRpaiGcoZptByBCtHDs5W-LMppVFXyvtfd-h97GrKOXiprH1OqimizoFjw0JMCKavh/s320/BK_41.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghn8NArRF2UtQqxLVSYilT533OxjlOXhD15m4IjaPUEpxUhQ4uoLWNMLMBpTqk_s9vm_xO8wy9jgopBVPQpzbJ2FU0Q5I9xKCYql69MwG42Dkw32yUKK2y1UfjW5LotTATAQnfzoIIrIenccDET3AKcQWY-0s85MuAsh9Lbb7TFnTZrOttRKkaCj8v/s5557/BK_42.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghn8NArRF2UtQqxLVSYilT533OxjlOXhD15m4IjaPUEpxUhQ4uoLWNMLMBpTqk_s9vm_xO8wy9jgopBVPQpzbJ2FU0Q5I9xKCYql69MwG42Dkw32yUKK2y1UfjW5LotTATAQnfzoIIrIenccDET3AKcQWY-0s85MuAsh9Lbb7TFnTZrOttRKkaCj8v/s320/BK_42.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKmi6F5JhuVLYhBPyNL9Np_dkNm5dWD-Et1fxEcmTy3klY85GYyaqk4XPZ2XEQzZk4x6zkpaJwnL6g9ui-kmpKBJ0YmU8Bz_9s4mE6jT-UbCH40d6H1tsq6Bzsygj5EielSBFQBgI_P1zAgB9L6tXlegb_OFkwFxw9ze_FMSJZZAvgg_mTA5F91A0V/s5557/BK_43.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKmi6F5JhuVLYhBPyNL9Np_dkNm5dWD-Et1fxEcmTy3klY85GYyaqk4XPZ2XEQzZk4x6zkpaJwnL6g9ui-kmpKBJ0YmU8Bz_9s4mE6jT-UbCH40d6H1tsq6Bzsygj5EielSBFQBgI_P1zAgB9L6tXlegb_OFkwFxw9ze_FMSJZZAvgg_mTA5F91A0V/s320/BK_43.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And the same again...but this time with a <i>jug</i>!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(I love props...)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUrUvHB8irf0DMOzuK-j2IAI0JO8qwKj985fDJrk3XIPT0UolJ60rAac0qMPDjcZR_DjCLfVEmAXzBqTn0xLhfvlZd2Rm6f1DJb8YvQeZ0EPo_tNntdxZK0LPda9ieS6Y7nnTF_hPk295TGjZHtBiQoM9-adbVcbawgZ00rVRqmLE1YOJ-OuKnw87/s5421/BK_45.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUrUvHB8irf0DMOzuK-j2IAI0JO8qwKj985fDJrk3XIPT0UolJ60rAac0qMPDjcZR_DjCLfVEmAXzBqTn0xLhfvlZd2Rm6f1DJb8YvQeZ0EPo_tNntdxZK0LPda9ieS6Y7nnTF_hPk295TGjZHtBiQoM9-adbVcbawgZ00rVRqmLE1YOJ-OuKnw87/s320/BK_45.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNx_pilGTtyAo0yrXbgGO9LjqtAxloDqsQH1sRL9ERfExL9PkAhlgDjwHhiugursF9fHCd4vu4ki-MYlKTcG6jTDW2bxLulGCmiq8mb9fkeozPRz0zAFC8cZUjKCQawT91JofK9ITbj3Ep-O_lf5n94CP-D_yqi-RhI7HxCAdVM54QC0dDmNePN6Gh/s5421/BK_46.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNx_pilGTtyAo0yrXbgGO9LjqtAxloDqsQH1sRL9ERfExL9PkAhlgDjwHhiugursF9fHCd4vu4ki-MYlKTcG6jTDW2bxLulGCmiq8mb9fkeozPRz0zAFC8cZUjKCQawT91JofK9ITbj3Ep-O_lf5n94CP-D_yqi-RhI7HxCAdVM54QC0dDmNePN6Gh/s320/BK_46.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBnay8TH3A8P0XDWHqbsv33D9xRDJVcG0wwLLmARb6rqJxXMIfKmP8cVFzEqc0UcO7JGNUjMy8yXQXuscXyPQW4OnpLEb0BPDOIuT52Tl48w7gZLSoQqMHoy4lsZBIsHsHJao4KsJJBzYvTTqvl4WVI0Zi97S6dfK0dz6IlX9yXRDvP4_eIOYCYf0n/s5421/BK_47.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBnay8TH3A8P0XDWHqbsv33D9xRDJVcG0wwLLmARb6rqJxXMIfKmP8cVFzEqc0UcO7JGNUjMy8yXQXuscXyPQW4OnpLEb0BPDOIuT52Tl48w7gZLSoQqMHoy4lsZBIsHsHJao4KsJJBzYvTTqvl4WVI0Zi97S6dfK0dz6IlX9yXRDvP4_eIOYCYf0n/s320/BK_47.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPendZKqvV7A7Ny3l_r1Y6wSlDgmfL7EVsVrfpQ2rv9sXwpFXCTZW5i86kjyuLTvEzwQZkfgVjXdQnJY6iZJlthBpaANWo7qnimu3zSJ638ClyUf0iNArus6R3xbQWumSy5hCrPEf9Dvwl2W41k-VgWhLAceoAYf6_wtbwcoOYr3Az93VDHomudBTo/s5421/BK_48.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPendZKqvV7A7Ny3l_r1Y6wSlDgmfL7EVsVrfpQ2rv9sXwpFXCTZW5i86kjyuLTvEzwQZkfgVjXdQnJY6iZJlthBpaANWo7qnimu3zSJ638ClyUf0iNArus6R3xbQWumSy5hCrPEf9Dvwl2W41k-VgWhLAceoAYf6_wtbwcoOYr3Az93VDHomudBTo/s320/BK_48.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This green variant is probably my favourite. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I love the colour combination. It has all the brightness and fun that I associate with Medieval imagery, so purely as a costume I think it works rather well.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I can definitely see myself wearing this to a Renaissance Faire at some point.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next up are some dark blue sleeves.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJs8RU-gITm7GQc5O8XVV1FXPdp5YBrSBYIX1vWpvPY5w1q1In7YvONh4KpHqvxwUVHtxh2yg-E0Kg43PR_ABei_SlvtcXRO0PmtQxIm2UXLQIet3uTheGCKjvTxUK0lrvCrgFXnPpejtlvGRGPZr7OXoO6nI2ADvHBQxXA5rzrmYoowmKVt2pA3tP/s5421/BK_49.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJs8RU-gITm7GQc5O8XVV1FXPdp5YBrSBYIX1vWpvPY5w1q1In7YvONh4KpHqvxwUVHtxh2yg-E0Kg43PR_ABei_SlvtcXRO0PmtQxIm2UXLQIet3uTheGCKjvTxUK0lrvCrgFXnPpejtlvGRGPZr7OXoO6nI2ADvHBQxXA5rzrmYoowmKVt2pA3tP/s320/BK_49.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh7sNZu8N-cqbWUfw7c8ZJR0R8pwT3nUo7qXeR450tQptJOjZbjXojE1PNbuuzmGhUeCo1qz9-1lifv00oG38PwmL1c7kJ5TmWhgRbUWJ_pgIiJTadtECix-SrKDFxzQC6vY6n-yPximIvyX1K3oPmNXBj_kyW6mPM4bECGNMnVA92hgP_GL02jrBB/s5421/BK_50.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh7sNZu8N-cqbWUfw7c8ZJR0R8pwT3nUo7qXeR450tQptJOjZbjXojE1PNbuuzmGhUeCo1qz9-1lifv00oG38PwmL1c7kJ5TmWhgRbUWJ_pgIiJTadtECix-SrKDFxzQC6vY6n-yPximIvyX1K3oPmNXBj_kyW6mPM4bECGNMnVA92hgP_GL02jrBB/s320/BK_50.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In general I really like the combination of the dark blue sleeves with the lighter kirtle, but I don't think I quite landed the accessories.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(As an aside, I do really like the veil look overall. I have a very square face/jaw/head that I've often felt self conscious about and I find the veil really softens the harsher angles of my face. I can see why it would have been a popular style!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><br /></div>Now at this point I just start playing with colour and shapes.<div>I lose the yellow purse and bring back the red sleeve and stark white apron.</div><div>The pallet is now only blue, red and white.</div><div><br /></div><div><div>The veil is also left untucked so I get to play the angular folds off the point of the hat.</div><div>The result (I think) is interesting visually, but again I make no claims on its historical accuracy...</div></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFyl9J5w7v68EcETSdd794stufLGj2Sv-uu0eeWbNiGTOXLvVqhq3STPHFOZZf0dqod_W3MzSrAKGfqxRZuAFQFtVAk4u6UNSXEO1CUHDGLAoXw9vMOCT2uYO45cJK2rUtZpVfM_d1Eg6IoxTvJ8Kr1StYYXlWYCZhTAZOiK0HErMcZZK03SCQ4lpZ/s5429/BK_62.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFyl9J5w7v68EcETSdd794stufLGj2Sv-uu0eeWbNiGTOXLvVqhq3STPHFOZZf0dqod_W3MzSrAKGfqxRZuAFQFtVAk4u6UNSXEO1CUHDGLAoXw9vMOCT2uYO45cJK2rUtZpVfM_d1Eg6IoxTvJ8Kr1StYYXlWYCZhTAZOiK0HErMcZZK03SCQ4lpZ/s320/BK_62.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIKa1U5aawZ6QEMHAZUHrHwiOALMYFxXT5OdKj1V7YGW2ibI-kF2v3I0_Z8YFMCt6bnC85pEc93I3rHrn0ZTnx5A8CsPho486LeoqEWLawbAuxHbM6dnEYR7niMMxlkNCokpEFBzSxERJrZEsbwCLEwwHnv-hCuMneag_vhFLdqqrj-fim7u4Hmuv2/s5429/BK_59.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIKa1U5aawZ6QEMHAZUHrHwiOALMYFxXT5OdKj1V7YGW2ibI-kF2v3I0_Z8YFMCt6bnC85pEc93I3rHrn0ZTnx5A8CsPho486LeoqEWLawbAuxHbM6dnEYR7niMMxlkNCokpEFBzSxERJrZEsbwCLEwwHnv-hCuMneag_vhFLdqqrj-fim7u4Hmuv2/s320/BK_59.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgCNbrPBjiPGIvJPIUax_B5DiIqAdnNGAHlurhLzwgyDkS6PIZuNJdAZpWUA3W6aGSwmL2bLAmibnOCrGe8L-ePez9QT16mlJpnp1hU1QGzY5DPfnWQhAJWyJMRXDm3XOPgIEdNHzSeehHsf-3oEJz5DIKaIiPoBsBv3IysGR49_1qoLnJ_JY3-x3S/s5429/BK_60.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgCNbrPBjiPGIvJPIUax_B5DiIqAdnNGAHlurhLzwgyDkS6PIZuNJdAZpWUA3W6aGSwmL2bLAmibnOCrGe8L-ePez9QT16mlJpnp1hU1QGzY5DPfnWQhAJWyJMRXDm3XOPgIEdNHzSeehHsf-3oEJz5DIKaIiPoBsBv3IysGR49_1qoLnJ_JY3-x3S/s320/BK_60.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGsrwCD1r5Oc4ZXVJn9_BeBwFvgsDGCY-Afdc_tOkB-nV5sRwJS9SeqN9xJg0QmhhZV4rJpzfUEqT7iD9jKY9Wx-mPGdIePDNbQ01MOIWAWvhQ0zZFG9wEI6W85_JD0--Mn93oRYPQj1WxiJmBsVIQjOxF6kaiTnY6EwIZkwSLvUPifc4fh-W_wqLP/s5429/BK_58.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGsrwCD1r5Oc4ZXVJn9_BeBwFvgsDGCY-Afdc_tOkB-nV5sRwJS9SeqN9xJg0QmhhZV4rJpzfUEqT7iD9jKY9Wx-mPGdIePDNbQ01MOIWAWvhQ0zZFG9wEI6W85_JD0--Mn93oRYPQj1WxiJmBsVIQjOxF6kaiTnY6EwIZkwSLvUPifc4fh-W_wqLP/s320/BK_58.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVjg-CHFsGfsiAZgCKEpTlp94Jy4u8kwo25RINRFi4mDk_q0e0RinxwxgpAMb1IqyL7Pw23l32EvHr3SBlCSr6hRHxOjw6B1GDgsROCXFh_70f40WQ4D09jfdmzA1sdsMWtX9xjOrxOXz3xOceL4HV0ySLdz09QjycXtTAM74Ie3ops3cMN7w9eUg/s5429/BK_61.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5429" data-original-width="3524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVjg-CHFsGfsiAZgCKEpTlp94Jy4u8kwo25RINRFi4mDk_q0e0RinxwxgpAMb1IqyL7Pw23l32EvHr3SBlCSr6hRHxOjw6B1GDgsROCXFh_70f40WQ4D09jfdmzA1sdsMWtX9xjOrxOXz3xOceL4HV0ySLdz09QjycXtTAM74Ie3ops3cMN7w9eUg/s320/BK_61.jpg" width="208" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">And finally, the same look without the hat.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5mGPnO6iOrFwNz9embVdz0Zh6MZSSErRu4u5VUwVkKYYv1kfEidekegK4vArcZq3ZeAJlu2d5lUy37k7xfIa1fmm7Mx625xUN6nyS-ISw_2plBUsavdYuLtXEpgrbOf3m8arDQUN7OQpaAAsSF8e6nx1rhHQceTfrX1rJ0s_jIWew_a60ACwjmRUa/s5421/BK_51.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5mGPnO6iOrFwNz9embVdz0Zh6MZSSErRu4u5VUwVkKYYv1kfEidekegK4vArcZq3ZeAJlu2d5lUy37k7xfIa1fmm7Mx625xUN6nyS-ISw_2plBUsavdYuLtXEpgrbOf3m8arDQUN7OQpaAAsSF8e6nx1rhHQceTfrX1rJ0s_jIWew_a60ACwjmRUa/s320/BK_51.jpg" width="209" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PVUV4RRKaTZWYhX0bJ6UnwhoSAJb8G_8L436VJDcmDI3HYQtr0j279JNQ42KXvkNshOqzXo0L_47btw2OXpRLMdH0C4qGciqGLqKMmOdifr3NHesxQQqxfawFjcW4hee72lVPoXo0Zad_TD2_6LN_ivD1v08jd2BVRTpkz6aOEK6MAiTriMAnFQh/s5421/BK_52.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5421" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PVUV4RRKaTZWYhX0bJ6UnwhoSAJb8G_8L436VJDcmDI3HYQtr0j279JNQ42KXvkNshOqzXo0L_47btw2OXpRLMdH0C4qGciqGLqKMmOdifr3NHesxQQqxfawFjcW4hee72lVPoXo0Zad_TD2_6LN_ivD1v08jd2BVRTpkz6aOEK6MAiTriMAnFQh/s320/BK_52.jpg" width="209" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>And that's it! </div><div>Again, I LOVE this kirtle. It's super fun and endlessly versatile. </div><div><br /></div><div>I still have a bunch more sleeves and accessories that I'd love to try but those will have to wait for another day.</div><div><br /></div><div>(For more on this blue kirtle see the original <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/05/blue-short-sleeved-kirtle.html">Dress Diary</a> and my previous <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/05/blue-kirtle-mix-match.html">Mix & Match</a>)</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-54832656937328349292023-05-31T17:53:00.017-07:002023-06-04T11:47:56.390-07:00Blue Kirtle "Mix & Match"<div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWoY90LHegtu9L43eFkOFk0HeKMSxDJf7jEKypDoNFmdlKvMDE9CpXveWuzi-m-3kDQYSMRz7qDQ78Uii2f-YsVDjUwcIU3kPbJPr-1Tl47dnIeoA5jH1F-arbTAmpGhPnkcMJ7yRZcw7y9yrNbsis6rlcYsSsqNq5V0fodCkPlFEYvgp4FgS6Ht6Y/s5517/BK_16.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWoY90LHegtu9L43eFkOFk0HeKMSxDJf7jEKypDoNFmdlKvMDE9CpXveWuzi-m-3kDQYSMRz7qDQ78Uii2f-YsVDjUwcIU3kPbJPr-1Tl47dnIeoA5jH1F-arbTAmpGhPnkcMJ7yRZcw7y9yrNbsis6rlcYsSsqNq5V0fodCkPlFEYvgp4FgS6Ht6Y/w129-h200/BK_16.jpg" width="129" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9U5IssTEBhJrAZN7avz1Q1ak0v6oguJ32WHvs4WDz8qSTbmwGO5eGAoHajWw4KUg5ZKzUsQ4TtkXOwZG-BX_OsycRgIoEcSCGvcVwy2gQwxbt9FC-TTkvMgxk0C3my9VgfzSxXUPjmtDipDaEPqDHv1P9pAFvjC0N0heo9tzgiyxoO8DWpypkjokX/s5557/BK_69%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9U5IssTEBhJrAZN7avz1Q1ak0v6oguJ32WHvs4WDz8qSTbmwGO5eGAoHajWw4KUg5ZKzUsQ4TtkXOwZG-BX_OsycRgIoEcSCGvcVwy2gQwxbt9FC-TTkvMgxk0C3my9VgfzSxXUPjmtDipDaEPqDHv1P9pAFvjC0N0heo9tzgiyxoO8DWpypkjokX/w127-h200/BK_69%20copy.jpg" width="127" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHddv-27_UHFF4k492VChDj6n3Itp3OQdWgvQHNIuPpyF-OxGta_BC3YtVH-kKOuykKJDFagi9tywEulWHL4VQ8xi1Wxkz5lhwWlSzeeVasKyLsfxCKgL6q16PoEq7aJ28UWrDbQ8J7oUFUZvy9wR8WsQkKEvxntGCbmoNFypaTmRnywZmhgOEV-w/s5493/BK_25.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5493" data-original-width="3453" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHddv-27_UHFF4k492VChDj6n3Itp3OQdWgvQHNIuPpyF-OxGta_BC3YtVH-kKOuykKJDFagi9tywEulWHL4VQ8xi1Wxkz5lhwWlSzeeVasKyLsfxCKgL6q16PoEq7aJ28UWrDbQ8J7oUFUZvy9wR8WsQkKEvxntGCbmoNFypaTmRnywZmhgOEV-w/w126-h200/BK_25.jpg" width="126" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_v4sM7zNU3PZ7d8CrafJ-3QmNYVfd3SuCoPRuMhMnAyKkRmOgYYrgial6BvGZMaP1umdUSsvvFMouxaRHeC2LJN7CJQ-DdrwqeCQXGyUFsMTYlBBgDE4MJphtzVRbCkEV12s8IozoDhAYFtkiNGSz7yGYk85AzOUy0ioZlWJJt9Lo0rKAdX2JdYw/s5493/BK_27.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5493" data-original-width="3453" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_v4sM7zNU3PZ7d8CrafJ-3QmNYVfd3SuCoPRuMhMnAyKkRmOgYYrgial6BvGZMaP1umdUSsvvFMouxaRHeC2LJN7CJQ-DdrwqeCQXGyUFsMTYlBBgDE4MJphtzVRbCkEV12s8IozoDhAYFtkiNGSz7yGYk85AzOUy0ioZlWJJt9Lo0rKAdX2JdYw/w126-h200/BK_27.jpg" width="126" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSE3i49D0EmYEjkFhslLqPCwlLfxNGTdLnou8548c2_j8pd295RrWDAh_3fws7234mjHkhZnPlOfLV4MTDzjpaOuCniEKafIayA4sia-1cD29dpyLXAWJtxHgog0LbHf_f-SMmV4QeacziqyLt3HnLt-2NleE-WasrH1NGzOPmUf6PBtY-yVTrVGu2/s5557/BK_63.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSE3i49D0EmYEjkFhslLqPCwlLfxNGTdLnou8548c2_j8pd295RrWDAh_3fws7234mjHkhZnPlOfLV4MTDzjpaOuCniEKafIayA4sia-1cD29dpyLXAWJtxHgog0LbHf_f-SMmV4QeacziqyLt3HnLt-2NleE-WasrH1NGzOPmUf6PBtY-yVTrVGu2/w127-h200/BK_63.jpg" width="127" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP8O6mHxGHzMfKfdaO9B393EtzhO8xwXpNYrCo42eQIKknhIHNBxckLvWhbIKuLXCAteNeBfB3rlioFi1MB93-Y-c7xmUcOXISoc6IGtV-wq4hq8XY84lIsz9ZhuIMdaMINSF-IW7RwKCfwP34Ko7OCS1mZiFRfnoJUr9WHRsDRNuyxreCFZ45cJK-/s5517/BK_20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP8O6mHxGHzMfKfdaO9B393EtzhO8xwXpNYrCo42eQIKknhIHNBxckLvWhbIKuLXCAteNeBfB3rlioFi1MB93-Y-c7xmUcOXISoc6IGtV-wq4hq8XY84lIsz9ZhuIMdaMINSF-IW7RwKCfwP34Ko7OCS1mZiFRfnoJUr9WHRsDRNuyxreCFZ45cJK-/w129-h200/BK_20.jpg" width="129" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Welcome to the photo dump for my new blue kirtle (the construction of which was recently documented in my latest <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/05/blue-short-sleeved-kirtle.html">Dress Diary</a>).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Based on early 16th century illustrations, the kirtle laces up the front and features short sleeves, a 'V' back, and a shaped skirt (constructed with piecing).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoCBf_U2xkrnB5ZeMIq5nKXF2tzEcqlZutAbBzMpNvNDtqlrbjjkfR7rq5KvcD1rnLI_ZxcceWSLoK2q27BwYVW4zJ-7hYl7LdclX88e8IY1ebJvl88iCCXItya9b3bnbnNwZjJYhsIyU4cSUdAlPe0F-eauNG7076ftnZGOvSrAfVFxsNxTsCq1fT/s5557/BK_01A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoCBf_U2xkrnB5ZeMIq5nKXF2tzEcqlZutAbBzMpNvNDtqlrbjjkfR7rq5KvcD1rnLI_ZxcceWSLoK2q27BwYVW4zJ-7hYl7LdclX88e8IY1ebJvl88iCCXItya9b3bnbnNwZjJYhsIyU4cSUdAlPe0F-eauNG7076ftnZGOvSrAfVFxsNxTsCq1fT/s320/BK_01A.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM-wXMndG0tKOChcLJ18c7YFMByTsKZdoZEA8tOgwDa0JbmWbkoy1TnA1mqc1aBv5dS8tkV4ynUmBkJYbDofxsbsJFyUSJ0ZG3lbbkZ5HPJOoPLBXOl8heK_bHaA-G-oqFJ8qud4e5RiT_7wXXgDEfxXx0tt3FRlJjIfjE8tNJWPO-feN3nT_IEj52/s5557/BK_02A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM-wXMndG0tKOChcLJ18c7YFMByTsKZdoZEA8tOgwDa0JbmWbkoy1TnA1mqc1aBv5dS8tkV4ynUmBkJYbDofxsbsJFyUSJ0ZG3lbbkZ5HPJOoPLBXOl8heK_bHaA-G-oqFJ8qud4e5RiT_7wXXgDEfxXx0tt3FRlJjIfjE8tNJWPO-feN3nT_IEj52/s320/BK_02A.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiax9dfc1jExsoWYdIvJ_R_H0GaYsvfOuViARCwK6vmLBmMVRhNlg0J9qMDVfMfw41EhxskecmIJubT0JJO50FmeJsZe7e-L5J6PS8yQZm43TMcPCX2bJ9zsPFzINSs0QPiJ63PxxFQGlQYTcEzU1OwXWPohwwKy5UwNiWbMTLTfcVBxFnPeXjN3dml/s5557/BK_04A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiax9dfc1jExsoWYdIvJ_R_H0GaYsvfOuViARCwK6vmLBmMVRhNlg0J9qMDVfMfw41EhxskecmIJubT0JJO50FmeJsZe7e-L5J6PS8yQZm43TMcPCX2bJ9zsPFzINSs0QPiJ63PxxFQGlQYTcEzU1OwXWPohwwKy5UwNiWbMTLTfcVBxFnPeXjN3dml/s320/BK_04A.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXgRUIKw6-RGFLfbrMgBB7e7uCJhGpZERsHZ7-ZjsSVfydx4h1ITD8eBpGPjIIIb0Mwc_jjYBflYR5TuTzvbcakt25uBexKIU8UEiynVGqiVQZzb2W_YeYXBsZbXaiyRW5ujcstSiTkqciJjRMPkVj2oR_Jw-N9t6ZLiYL9rflPsedc9__0HiAaVz/s5557/BK_03A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXgRUIKw6-RGFLfbrMgBB7e7uCJhGpZERsHZ7-ZjsSVfydx4h1ITD8eBpGPjIIIb0Mwc_jjYBflYR5TuTzvbcakt25uBexKIU8UEiynVGqiVQZzb2W_YeYXBsZbXaiyRW5ujcstSiTkqciJjRMPkVj2oR_Jw-N9t6ZLiYL9rflPsedc9__0HiAaVz/s320/BK_03A.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5YWRRVvOulJzApV7vJxFv8pydtecncHuZmHw9cd7SLKiiHHQloPovjzm_Q4DjLj8iDKDH7-q2atFRRvjPlsQWHM6HlaWiUZaZMW4mSI8650eCJo2h5pxutiCm4KycPs-4Vbx2Om1UIdoccoV7_Z-RMsayySbkxnEWFwOWD-G-hBqlCUBJgtLVFxHt/s5557/BK_15A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5YWRRVvOulJzApV7vJxFv8pydtecncHuZmHw9cd7SLKiiHHQloPovjzm_Q4DjLj8iDKDH7-q2atFRRvjPlsQWHM6HlaWiUZaZMW4mSI8650eCJo2h5pxutiCm4KycPs-4Vbx2Om1UIdoccoV7_Z-RMsayySbkxnEWFwOWD-G-hBqlCUBJgtLVFxHt/w205-h320/BK_15A.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDEbaIC9NZsIJDOE4J83Y2I0vJYPpUjfD-cUMeEKRdtgZbcaQh9wDUPFH0Tnlnkia5JE0oWfva0F-Dxj8EZCZpUNpTQAo_CkfykmtB-31lBlRPm9ELyR3UinqywVqa9UsFuxFHpx2G8kiK0rRu0r17z561zJ7f8hYktqfe_qU1HY3hBvWbvHNT1jPD/s5557/BK_05A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDEbaIC9NZsIJDOE4J83Y2I0vJYPpUjfD-cUMeEKRdtgZbcaQh9wDUPFH0Tnlnkia5JE0oWfva0F-Dxj8EZCZpUNpTQAo_CkfykmtB-31lBlRPm9ELyR3UinqywVqa9UsFuxFHpx2G8kiK0rRu0r17z561zJ7f8hYktqfe_qU1HY3hBvWbvHNT1jPD/w205-h320/BK_05A.jpg" width="205" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">It was originally inspired by a page from Catherine de Medici's Book of Hours.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTTJ2NLeiI5--HUe7JUR_nVU--OfV3q990uf7bVQ1nUeXJW1KKXACvkXZ0DYsXmcwJT70SW8PT4dH0enAklCiAUmSqY-jG6jqCNqavyi6e70HvlGITRDpz_DAZVPyR5GbN9OkSFuLZ39UWAKdE993ZRoE1NavdaVg5-_KYjFT22wwJ6rkVodFEWHD/s938/9E5569F7-244B-41C9-B620-79F43334A888.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /><img border="0" data-original-height="938" data-original-width="647" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTTJ2NLeiI5--HUe7JUR_nVU--OfV3q990uf7bVQ1nUeXJW1KKXACvkXZ0DYsXmcwJT70SW8PT4dH0enAklCiAUmSqY-jG6jqCNqavyi6e70HvlGITRDpz_DAZVPyR5GbN9OkSFuLZ39UWAKdE993ZRoE1NavdaVg5-_KYjFT22wwJ6rkVodFEWHD/w276-h400/9E5569F7-244B-41C9-B620-79F43334A888.jpeg" width="276" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDU1DuIiVrC5csA0GRtJJZd4BFV0z3mwjJxVeB6mI9jpy2-_Xe5HaCPfZrbFSN6dfVq1BSbxpY5exTEozaBQe55Ye0ZBlc5gwH-4nZc2ccKo8n6gKLFTGcCk_PpQrRiC7D2tQQ0oEywtMjVExcuE3gr3oGpa71pQ8njqm4fxgchqRRcNMhfgbydJjV/s1362/FDD3F538-5C42-49D5-BE0F-36E96F0191AD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1362" data-original-width="779" height="399" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDU1DuIiVrC5csA0GRtJJZd4BFV0z3mwjJxVeB6mI9jpy2-_Xe5HaCPfZrbFSN6dfVq1BSbxpY5exTEozaBQe55Ye0ZBlc5gwH-4nZc2ccKo8n6gKLFTGcCk_PpQrRiC7D2tQQ0oEywtMjVExcuE3gr3oGpa71pQ8njqm4fxgchqRRcNMhfgbydJjV/w228-h399/FDD3F538-5C42-49D5-BE0F-36E96F0191AD.jpeg" width="228" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjikgmYYxEMNt84tnkX6CDFEHmTbRTsJZllQHWIDKJ97L_zjMXOtaJ7UUgFpWA7ONqFEUQvqVJ20D-Jnhc5n17y6KupmX-iSONHDRAmH2_QO24vDGt2fZf9jxx5AtnPYwsyxOLdmqCI81GIbxJRp7UdzMOQPzjLlosywEw5dWpcLPkfuoMRDBYHPp2W/s5587/BK_07A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5587" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjikgmYYxEMNt84tnkX6CDFEHmTbRTsJZllQHWIDKJ97L_zjMXOtaJ7UUgFpWA7ONqFEUQvqVJ20D-Jnhc5n17y6KupmX-iSONHDRAmH2_QO24vDGt2fZf9jxx5AtnPYwsyxOLdmqCI81GIbxJRp7UdzMOQPzjLlosywEw5dWpcLPkfuoMRDBYHPp2W/s320/BK_07A.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVYlwFahP6RN2dIv1c3QKDNTMpQUVj3CdFhdYVeGVx5iQM5uMHr2X2Wa7H-Sdw0-YF9EPRoll6Wejf-MT-JUAb-iEU7gR9kBtxf3BOYHY501p-IH4N5LxKnPGq9DbTkHfPlE317JVDUmAoFK9VlG-o6jHQRIzy-2-rbz4m7MBy2Zd8KFY5Wk34JCVR/s5587/BK_06B.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5587" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVYlwFahP6RN2dIv1c3QKDNTMpQUVj3CdFhdYVeGVx5iQM5uMHr2X2Wa7H-Sdw0-YF9EPRoll6Wejf-MT-JUAb-iEU7gR9kBtxf3BOYHY501p-IH4N5LxKnPGq9DbTkHfPlE317JVDUmAoFK9VlG-o6jHQRIzy-2-rbz4m7MBy2Zd8KFY5Wk34JCVR/s320/BK_06B.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Although less popular later in the century, blue seemed to be a fairly ubiquitous colour in the first decades of the 16th century (and earlier).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Inspired by period images, it was clear that it could be infinitely adapted by swapping out a few accessories.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6pkonkOrAwRfZ58y3-K8RK8WM6_Umg9oBUPef38vRJNKFbHUKTlPXpATvQ_LJLF-9EuP4Cui7hmXQ3e7XXESi9zZlwiWm0fRPO4-CYH0B9ZXss-aikVWynMFbD1rQ9X1wmSptjh5uyeb0I-49m9xgWhfcDLpjLfhPUo3LZwszLQyrl2oVYJDljPRX/s447/1966881E-C35A-4D2F-9A27-AE2C75803EEE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="447" data-original-width="371" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6pkonkOrAwRfZ58y3-K8RK8WM6_Umg9oBUPef38vRJNKFbHUKTlPXpATvQ_LJLF-9EuP4Cui7hmXQ3e7XXESi9zZlwiWm0fRPO4-CYH0B9ZXss-aikVWynMFbD1rQ9X1wmSptjh5uyeb0I-49m9xgWhfcDLpjLfhPUo3LZwszLQyrl2oVYJDljPRX/w166-h200/1966881E-C35A-4D2F-9A27-AE2C75803EEE.jpeg" width="166" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKBQ22FK2JoPx_AhGVyFoJyx_36fxxVtYjgz6_u--FHpiUp0vI8gzlhvhKty3LOWbyLvfaQeZ8_2IdQMRdRxfpzlZsn8C0M-4s_WAnAWm91ZRWYtYi5lehJyYSriR-Uuaxv2FXSYvqHWcbIEIoG9F7X9aKr1kbKcBSGtZ-pqBXArS8nkU0Yw0JXhMm/s1109/84E6E8DD-0527-4B8F-BFD6-74F6D3115CFC.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1107" data-original-width="1109" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKBQ22FK2JoPx_AhGVyFoJyx_36fxxVtYjgz6_u--FHpiUp0vI8gzlhvhKty3LOWbyLvfaQeZ8_2IdQMRdRxfpzlZsn8C0M-4s_WAnAWm91ZRWYtYi5lehJyYSriR-Uuaxv2FXSYvqHWcbIEIoG9F7X9aKr1kbKcBSGtZ-pqBXArS8nkU0Yw0JXhMm/w200-h199/84E6E8DD-0527-4B8F-BFD6-74F6D3115CFC.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YRqJp4NgU0bLGOFwWaoh3Qs8ENVDBzENsOZ5Z_CfkEm4-dtEozFFuGMvooNjXgvx6UNGJmJnUb_TzwxUNnHeDw2ezLkSnhWNFey7ANO3uGIIHiWZye7njErQXl0vnswY9oHMOEncb-ExvO3Khw03CB0CM3mqXGx6Dv7X35IrVDYKYYUlSrS0neTT/s1495/4443D95E-FAA7-4DE1-B55F-CAB5AAA1E2F7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1260" data-original-width="1495" height="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YRqJp4NgU0bLGOFwWaoh3Qs8ENVDBzENsOZ5Z_CfkEm4-dtEozFFuGMvooNjXgvx6UNGJmJnUb_TzwxUNnHeDw2ezLkSnhWNFey7ANO3uGIIHiWZye7njErQXl0vnswY9oHMOEncb-ExvO3Khw03CB0CM3mqXGx6Dv7X35IrVDYKYYUlSrS0neTT/w200-h169/4443D95E-FAA7-4DE1-B55F-CAB5AAA1E2F7.jpeg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpOtpsVBWFtUrDMI-PgF2xGeqvkC6QZQtnBvzm_duIt_IHY2Sbh7h5v2woBBi5Upe75uDL9U3CUpGoWdiJef7G-dme3tiaFyvec4Rpi6u8jdHDsyeAREDPNoOpfJSU2mMidiPHMRABKUq4gp7iZkrFS3KZY-tobidiAXtqV2OKmuUfHOS78xa-1iAX/s889/15EE373E-37AE-466D-83FA-2730EE7A54B9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="889" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpOtpsVBWFtUrDMI-PgF2xGeqvkC6QZQtnBvzm_duIt_IHY2Sbh7h5v2woBBi5Upe75uDL9U3CUpGoWdiJef7G-dme3tiaFyvec4Rpi6u8jdHDsyeAREDPNoOpfJSU2mMidiPHMRABKUq4gp7iZkrFS3KZY-tobidiAXtqV2OKmuUfHOS78xa-1iAX/w200-h165/15EE373E-37AE-466D-83FA-2730EE7A54B9.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6W9eNIgQk3rMxFp2Gmn9BBqidruUNKTvKPX_GxWOmRoMObRmFKUkuG_3NuqC07ntM00tH4x9QFjgMdnnaaGXToq3rnvf8A7UHa99IQ9YT-pjTwyG7DJFStQ8jCiTuCN0leyBxiP6GZxfrCN5cxOefhmTvVFr8rNKyV8XQBCFLYia7AhpoI9yD3srq/s430/E18A71D0-5AF2-4CB6-8BF6-B7D1977A105A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="420" data-original-width="430" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6W9eNIgQk3rMxFp2Gmn9BBqidruUNKTvKPX_GxWOmRoMObRmFKUkuG_3NuqC07ntM00tH4x9QFjgMdnnaaGXToq3rnvf8A7UHa99IQ9YT-pjTwyG7DJFStQ8jCiTuCN0leyBxiP6GZxfrCN5cxOefhmTvVFr8rNKyV8XQBCFLYia7AhpoI9yD3srq/w200-h196/E18A71D0-5AF2-4CB6-8BF6-B7D1977A105A.jpeg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ARCIsSHtDdGiumlnwupnzMX1TvAvqfbrM_1SIltrm9NY0__DbEwQSaqANDk5cAj1URrdsYMfk4xEHPmW3y9_Gy-r1MNakKajZWP6SCdSrZaw5WNzR1jTmxIZH2zHmWlK5vijTYWnvU8sxXwPDC2Dbm3vRUOyaWZmG895A-wcoDiY1ni0dtZH5fZ8/s946/D8B8EC5F-E9DF-42C1-95B8-ED595C55C455.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="946" data-original-width="780" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ARCIsSHtDdGiumlnwupnzMX1TvAvqfbrM_1SIltrm9NY0__DbEwQSaqANDk5cAj1URrdsYMfk4xEHPmW3y9_Gy-r1MNakKajZWP6SCdSrZaw5WNzR1jTmxIZH2zHmWlK5vijTYWnvU8sxXwPDC2Dbm3vRUOyaWZmG895A-wcoDiY1ni0dtZH5fZ8/w165-h200/D8B8EC5F-E9DF-42C1-95B8-ED595C55C455.jpeg" width="165" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOHBpKlPP7C25P7af06XtMTEeVFgrnYsKfBlJjUsF-mfq_amtbUc59cTn4FYpUA4519Zz8sUM_foXIcWwiLbaLV7-WlanElQN7DRaw327hkgdS2AxcOuNsYj4qnuaO1M8ISRkrPJ5xCpoNKbbAAZLvCLkPEskpu3B-fHTRHbW6dWpnbKKkEdQ7SC4R/s667/50733A1C-8014-4094-9787-D6C9231F54F7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="499" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOHBpKlPP7C25P7af06XtMTEeVFgrnYsKfBlJjUsF-mfq_amtbUc59cTn4FYpUA4519Zz8sUM_foXIcWwiLbaLV7-WlanElQN7DRaw327hkgdS2AxcOuNsYj4qnuaO1M8ISRkrPJ5xCpoNKbbAAZLvCLkPEskpu3B-fHTRHbW6dWpnbKKkEdQ7SC4R/w149-h200/50733A1C-8014-4094-9787-D6C9231F54F7.jpeg" width="149" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So first things, first: I whip up some new sleeves!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A <i>LOT</i> of sleeves...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(so many that I won't be able to get to all the different combination in this post)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUhfevv43TCF5Mt_kiZCxZgeLk5c6dU8vAxe5D616y4_duTxQolVj9F4A28gUvWEYWsVUe3w-9kZiJLTQXF7024nsSAeqrkSwwfk628c6LtVeQbnVNdkID8tw3nIGBPiuomfs_vcuFddcLtyRNidVd9JTysseofph7IN1leqmo-k3XhQRcTBG7oK2n/s3347/sleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2209" data-original-width="3347" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUhfevv43TCF5Mt_kiZCxZgeLk5c6dU8vAxe5D616y4_duTxQolVj9F4A28gUvWEYWsVUe3w-9kZiJLTQXF7024nsSAeqrkSwwfk628c6LtVeQbnVNdkID8tw3nIGBPiuomfs_vcuFddcLtyRNidVd9JTysseofph7IN1leqmo-k3XhQRcTBG7oK2n/w400-h264/sleeves.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">All the sleeves are 3/4 length and are simple tubes which taper to the wrist.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">They are lined with various colours of linen (basically whatever I had in my stash)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmdd-AKwLsNWUJ7iYRV9bAhaC8mWSmcH6hhdqZwdzxb6JKvSGUVHwjmQX4ixiiGRcO8pECXGcMYRTv2jOgPnn184O7dDva3M9iE1GwiA12e12ulm3p0Riv0vUevZUQrM-7W154UY06DwrnpFtvKUttTj9Ty-bUesQuiiZ3gj9nhhSsBwvpvw7Af5D/s2819/3217CBF3-CCA3-4534-BA7A-84A7475AA7DD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2819" data-original-width="2465" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmdd-AKwLsNWUJ7iYRV9bAhaC8mWSmcH6hhdqZwdzxb6JKvSGUVHwjmQX4ixiiGRcO8pECXGcMYRTv2jOgPnn184O7dDva3M9iE1GwiA12e12ulm3p0Riv0vUevZUQrM-7W154UY06DwrnpFtvKUttTj9Ty-bUesQuiiZ3gj9nhhSsBwvpvw7Af5D/s320/3217CBF3-CCA3-4534-BA7A-84A7475AA7DD.jpeg" width="280" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKaGvMMtm1yxAiFNx0d7n7bJUSueUdIkHCiKV2wuBD-IHEywYBXY-gIj5P2WEh5F_KrfSDNThKn3TSwQdPHCb6GFz6D_WYNAI7jDLrnf6VGr7LqCeJ3c-tFZZ78wNQfBDAGl32mJ89f4O1aLRQHEOCE9uGNVFPVQNgTbpufyT9n0vn7G2-twR1nowA/s3665/B4996693-E353-412E-B136-F2E9BF70B426.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2853" data-original-width="3665" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKaGvMMtm1yxAiFNx0d7n7bJUSueUdIkHCiKV2wuBD-IHEywYBXY-gIj5P2WEh5F_KrfSDNThKn3TSwQdPHCb6GFz6D_WYNAI7jDLrnf6VGr7LqCeJ3c-tFZZ78wNQfBDAGl32mJ89f4O1aLRQHEOCE9uGNVFPVQNgTbpufyT9n0vn7G2-twR1nowA/s320/B4996693-E353-412E-B136-F2E9BF70B426.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Okay...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Let the Mix & Match begin!!!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The first look is just the basic kirtle with the addition of a white, un-gathered apron.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO5m90ZEmtsjoLAVghXwNN1DPKxeDwtJswC9i73KrB_SfiiH9GzS3vtnmyDkFnrq8Yh6bnOEMfa-jHCFAkw72CZGb-8qhT8tBTOpha_NJVIcc-nvA7LMKiiOkufvyuVvLv4tELidOOL9Sgg5hdtsg3KgQl4Qj3nK4hlT3LxNMYJarrcX014-8gwve1/s3871/0BD58FF7-7887-4D97-993D-82E38950B558.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2391" data-original-width="3871" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO5m90ZEmtsjoLAVghXwNN1DPKxeDwtJswC9i73KrB_SfiiH9GzS3vtnmyDkFnrq8Yh6bnOEMfa-jHCFAkw72CZGb-8qhT8tBTOpha_NJVIcc-nvA7LMKiiOkufvyuVvLv4tELidOOL9Sgg5hdtsg3KgQl4Qj3nK4hlT3LxNMYJarrcX014-8gwve1/s320/0BD58FF7-7887-4D97-993D-82E38950B558.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The result is a sort of low-rent, early 16th c. Belle...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_v4sM7zNU3PZ7d8CrafJ-3QmNYVfd3SuCoPRuMhMnAyKkRmOgYYrgial6BvGZMaP1umdUSsvvFMouxaRHeC2LJN7CJQ-DdrwqeCQXGyUFsMTYlBBgDE4MJphtzVRbCkEV12s8IozoDhAYFtkiNGSz7yGYk85AzOUy0ioZlWJJt9Lo0rKAdX2JdYw/s5493/BK_27.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5493" data-original-width="3453" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_v4sM7zNU3PZ7d8CrafJ-3QmNYVfd3SuCoPRuMhMnAyKkRmOgYYrgial6BvGZMaP1umdUSsvvFMouxaRHeC2LJN7CJQ-DdrwqeCQXGyUFsMTYlBBgDE4MJphtzVRbCkEV12s8IozoDhAYFtkiNGSz7yGYk85AzOUy0ioZlWJJt9Lo0rKAdX2JdYw/s320/BK_27.jpg" width="201" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguQ5iX1vbPTSP69mGiEeQkZo52G2n9LaiTt5levT56dLB2DGCPT2x0xJ_tnOZux-b5VhhU_IJxKpExXJfxpUosoDjk6R7ZZT3AiWwElQChrOId8-NhMf7q0sIgEzW8tPeuYDTG0abDYQ5ArHkS1OZlzr1355Tf422z4gpUYpauKxUUckIRzTisp5cb/s5493/BK_28.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5493" data-original-width="3453" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguQ5iX1vbPTSP69mGiEeQkZo52G2n9LaiTt5levT56dLB2DGCPT2x0xJ_tnOZux-b5VhhU_IJxKpExXJfxpUosoDjk6R7ZZT3AiWwElQChrOId8-NhMf7q0sIgEzW8tPeuYDTG0abDYQ5ArHkS1OZlzr1355Tf422z4gpUYpauKxUUckIRzTisp5cb/s320/BK_28.jpg" width="201" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Adding on....</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A lot of the images of female field workers show blue kirtles and red sleeves, so that seemed a fun place to start.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQuF86Dw7JcDzsfIa7XHTjQevpG6CHeCRRZ4J7wuPdx3U0PoNHkMsUdz8DQ5Tl6catX1PtRfVzi8Ka_-rjHErvPLdxqKyuss9-JF3ilRA16cNdl4_5ogngAyR4BVmYL-7IPz7lRkUdcJomMQ51O1b7733FX5oJ6XIqINY9u35gx2oj2hB_thkpMiFH/s5438/BK_12A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5438" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQuF86Dw7JcDzsfIa7XHTjQevpG6CHeCRRZ4J7wuPdx3U0PoNHkMsUdz8DQ5Tl6catX1PtRfVzi8Ka_-rjHErvPLdxqKyuss9-JF3ilRA16cNdl4_5ogngAyR4BVmYL-7IPz7lRkUdcJomMQ51O1b7733FX5oJ6XIqINY9u35gx2oj2hB_thkpMiFH/w210-h320/BK_12A.jpg" width="210" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZ979IA7dN1Ag78dWt63PJT1ciUvmqWhVlN_-kSnjhdkMFg8_9HrVE9H399UBKodqvBDZYf8mj249WJgLBmvgqF01uRSQ6WBXcazxCStLFYnqPSkZ8WI6TAztNu5x5FCfC3HTCrxJiZ0v2CVLrvT-96R_MrO56dHDiUQE6TlG_I-DYdKlFQ4BVj3P/s5438/BK_11A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5438" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZ979IA7dN1Ag78dWt63PJT1ciUvmqWhVlN_-kSnjhdkMFg8_9HrVE9H399UBKodqvBDZYf8mj249WJgLBmvgqF01uRSQ6WBXcazxCStLFYnqPSkZ8WI6TAztNu5x5FCfC3HTCrxJiZ0v2CVLrvT-96R_MrO56dHDiUQE6TlG_I-DYdKlFQ4BVj3P/w210-h320/BK_11A.jpg" width="210" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig0FevO2P2UdDcVLH4t_bfs3SikQSNHLUseO7WHi27J5VPaTJ9c4HlzgxRqAn8ElbwDTgVxqSQpIWW5TzDq3oe-dJOwMr542R2ANOIT0ddti2YfMni1mwtK2VuOR-HZAB6UHVH7QrWH2lRnCLTWAqTTBwr8ASx_jxTC2r2U0lFLpP5pNAczQZz6ofr/s5438/BK_10A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5438" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig0FevO2P2UdDcVLH4t_bfs3SikQSNHLUseO7WHi27J5VPaTJ9c4HlzgxRqAn8ElbwDTgVxqSQpIWW5TzDq3oe-dJOwMr542R2ANOIT0ddti2YfMni1mwtK2VuOR-HZAB6UHVH7QrWH2lRnCLTWAqTTBwr8ASx_jxTC2r2U0lFLpP5pNAczQZz6ofr/w210-h320/BK_10A.jpg" width="210" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIjcFRWkjz_s4gk9AzPCmOllpNYBp0a0iyD8KLRTJVC8MUQwJFF52Zycy_o1dlPuy1T40rdRqEiTHsgA4KoVJhB7EDdZbt7gkQyn-jrJb4ZP56S_vNJ__pA4_HYBXyou45Zgiz8e7JIxfEiEY7IBD3BD5JP5phiuM3NWqLZdhArQhJ_gJtw7Czo07B/s5438/BK_75.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5438" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIjcFRWkjz_s4gk9AzPCmOllpNYBp0a0iyD8KLRTJVC8MUQwJFF52Zycy_o1dlPuy1T40rdRqEiTHsgA4KoVJhB7EDdZbt7gkQyn-jrJb4ZP56S_vNJ__pA4_HYBXyou45Zgiz8e7JIxfEiEY7IBD3BD5JP5phiuM3NWqLZdhArQhJ_gJtw7Czo07B/s320/BK_75.jpg" width="210" /></a></div><br /></div></div>This look incudes a large vintage sunhat.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjNKa5LlbIBlK6otEgQuhhtQzxa84q7RHqdMpWo_H6xus8G5acqt8zlXVpEt_J7l0y6j0Y2gxmBCnMe1-l3QX9coCiWi-plg9lLj3ZsTyeyXdIkUsqQzqvT99bz9w0crO-oD_xyS10ZiaHIB-3yWCtluv5IiX6xj9M3Xi0i0kkZxykhToYKld_FOpk/s3251/DDE5A2EB-8E1D-40F6-8551-A2F51E1C39FD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3251" data-original-width="3021" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjNKa5LlbIBlK6otEgQuhhtQzxa84q7RHqdMpWo_H6xus8G5acqt8zlXVpEt_J7l0y6j0Y2gxmBCnMe1-l3QX9coCiWi-plg9lLj3ZsTyeyXdIkUsqQzqvT99bz9w0crO-oD_xyS10ZiaHIB-3yWCtluv5IiX6xj9M3Xi0i0kkZxykhToYKld_FOpk/w186-h200/DDE5A2EB-8E1D-40F6-8551-A2F51E1C39FD.jpeg" width="186" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNs8DfpDVdcLHhGNH2EvgXFWIVLcAgLq3gvHX3ynE_sOtcNe_Z_o3ZCvQR-_6s3rtgrLSxFeOuEs_dxqGgUJxjY1QBVf4VgB6SYYsZad5lztqot7y_nQ1utVYvah1u4e00YnfO9fsbe8GKnu1VE7O3-m1cWJPho1EGjAn6cuOF7MVJUBJ3Tn6mBM9A/s3027/F7D20A98-FF03-4586-B0DB-0AE17B7943F4.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3027" data-original-width="2870" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNs8DfpDVdcLHhGNH2EvgXFWIVLcAgLq3gvHX3ynE_sOtcNe_Z_o3ZCvQR-_6s3rtgrLSxFeOuEs_dxqGgUJxjY1QBVf4VgB6SYYsZad5lztqot7y_nQ1utVYvah1u4e00YnfO9fsbe8GKnu1VE7O3-m1cWJPho1EGjAn6cuOF7MVJUBJ3Tn6mBM9A/w189-h200/F7D20A98-FF03-4586-B0DB-0AE17B7943F4.jpeg" width="189" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>And a leather belt and purse from <a href="https://www.karlrobinson.co.uk/">Karl Robinson - Leatherworker.</a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY9rXZnHQLVLfhhoZ2qFbwUh97mex3-NhOLyR98SobI8Lh1maVZfdPMOWwWTMt-AAKExYzfMNlFH3cXbIuGf2FQUjdKvMrjFZPn5Wk3ufdqAvhL4jeTps_jkYwhqE-ORp6uXf55ptdfo1gtanN_aENHuxHpPCE4M8OZrw1krPQSSW_7CfZ2pcDJNFX/s2925/bag5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2925" data-original-width="2799" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY9rXZnHQLVLfhhoZ2qFbwUh97mex3-NhOLyR98SobI8Lh1maVZfdPMOWwWTMt-AAKExYzfMNlFH3cXbIuGf2FQUjdKvMrjFZPn5Wk3ufdqAvhL4jeTps_jkYwhqE-ORp6uXf55ptdfo1gtanN_aENHuxHpPCE4M8OZrw1krPQSSW_7CfZ2pcDJNFX/w191-h200/bag5.jpg" width="191" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwC2mi0_mYwy7_0Ij1ggru5CPDXCin9FdmijnYzfTT0CcG-5RNEX4__kcpTGWt4OQ1_OF9ZcPJiXy4RqmR6-w6fg0g90EBpsrqT-U58y6toWfoeVMnPg3nft_V7uqSZRQL-3n3cG6iZwBFvqiOCZMPzmEmzQfXtr4Wxm399JNsWf7ej8hRyR771ISb/s3370/belt3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3370" data-original-width="3021" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwC2mi0_mYwy7_0Ij1ggru5CPDXCin9FdmijnYzfTT0CcG-5RNEX4__kcpTGWt4OQ1_OF9ZcPJiXy4RqmR6-w6fg0g90EBpsrqT-U58y6toWfoeVMnPg3nft_V7uqSZRQL-3n3cG6iZwBFvqiOCZMPzmEmzQfXtr4Wxm399JNsWf7ej8hRyR771ISb/w179-h200/belt3.jpg" width="179" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next iteration is basically the same, but with the white apron swapped out for a beige one...and a broom!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZR5REE6pPYy3c5fVk13St56xLbmdUKCeEYr1tGfc_ThOqmiVAiu3KH-YCVFjNn7zHwgadGh2dWlmFpRq7w94MLV8ttYcEikpm7jc8QkWrpjjRQ2Yy6muyMyvWz85Nks62p-7SJA7_s5jywhKxf1wYqTKC6omSPCE-CfVQI6sQiFeTYgdqSeI8YmYj/s5517/BK_18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZR5REE6pPYy3c5fVk13St56xLbmdUKCeEYr1tGfc_ThOqmiVAiu3KH-YCVFjNn7zHwgadGh2dWlmFpRq7w94MLV8ttYcEikpm7jc8QkWrpjjRQ2Yy6muyMyvWz85Nks62p-7SJA7_s5jywhKxf1wYqTKC6omSPCE-CfVQI6sQiFeTYgdqSeI8YmYj/w207-h320/BK_18.jpg" width="207" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEXJkJ5VdYmco2HWojq065rvCQjxWA8Rgz0gNrALxUvhxPcMYM_EgtiKsrT2Wpf1xKUVULKK3h3rqzuzzPDU83Ays2yIFfWPf1xWh3n58SsVeEkFK2hcDbGiYbL6xbjIjKLrGFeM3FZHUYPFxAci9VN5mjAQaCYmjk8SCC4OlRZ5-vUg59riB3CTa/s5517/BK_19.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEXJkJ5VdYmco2HWojq065rvCQjxWA8Rgz0gNrALxUvhxPcMYM_EgtiKsrT2Wpf1xKUVULKK3h3rqzuzzPDU83Ays2yIFfWPf1xWh3n58SsVeEkFK2hcDbGiYbL6xbjIjKLrGFeM3FZHUYPFxAci9VN5mjAQaCYmjk8SCC4OlRZ5-vUg59riB3CTa/w207-h320/BK_19.jpg" width="207" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The broom is a one that I picked up at the Renaissance Faire some years ago. It's aggressively rustic in appearance and I love it!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFlYDGFOoUnixcaSz_3EkuAIRQLTicFkJ9Su1gUn_lZiJ17622AL_08rnD-LIDVl7HtpwFLsZRbvQaVXAr6FnHarr2wGUBBBoV8YpvLi3BlSuND2eiiIBwYghue59pxrWi2i3FLeUDiKMgXRWC9GrLq4yUEgQ3e6Oi0VChFgllk-xWzWw1syu1UuDX/s4031/83ABF1EF-68EB-4349-B626-E3395F748A59.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4031" data-original-width="2988" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFlYDGFOoUnixcaSz_3EkuAIRQLTicFkJ9Su1gUn_lZiJ17622AL_08rnD-LIDVl7HtpwFLsZRbvQaVXAr6FnHarr2wGUBBBoV8YpvLi3BlSuND2eiiIBwYghue59pxrWi2i3FLeUDiKMgXRWC9GrLq4yUEgQ3e6Oi0VChFgllk-xWzWw1syu1UuDX/w148-h200/83ABF1EF-68EB-4349-B626-E3395F748A59.jpeg" width="148" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL9_bzn-N7wq-DWFdZ3SNN9yKZ0pwjjQDkpf6LGM6GoUqIEhXEcFd8ggpq0Kg7aIzi6GlGi4JuiuQ8z6QIDa93qM3NVsChMEvodtmFQQ9YFsb2K2KoCBGs_H-rNCBaePUMt5QHLglPloj1ezU_9C63cj6viIRZ0p0L9yp-ez8Zi3wSriR-_yIlt1H4/s3563/E65AD1AA-2439-4D84-9161-D5B8155A0F5E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3563" data-original-width="2549" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL9_bzn-N7wq-DWFdZ3SNN9yKZ0pwjjQDkpf6LGM6GoUqIEhXEcFd8ggpq0Kg7aIzi6GlGi4JuiuQ8z6QIDa93qM3NVsChMEvodtmFQQ9YFsb2K2KoCBGs_H-rNCBaePUMt5QHLglPloj1ezU_9C63cj6viIRZ0p0L9yp-ez8Zi3wSriR-_yIlt1H4/w143-h200/E65AD1AA-2439-4D84-9161-D5B8155A0F5E.jpeg" width="143" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next up...more props!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This time, a basket and some fake bread and veg that I picked up at a craft store.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWoY90LHegtu9L43eFkOFk0HeKMSxDJf7jEKypDoNFmdlKvMDE9CpXveWuzi-m-3kDQYSMRz7qDQ78Uii2f-YsVDjUwcIU3kPbJPr-1Tl47dnIeoA5jH1F-arbTAmpGhPnkcMJ7yRZcw7y9yrNbsis6rlcYsSsqNq5V0fodCkPlFEYvgp4FgS6Ht6Y/s5517/BK_16.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWoY90LHegtu9L43eFkOFk0HeKMSxDJf7jEKypDoNFmdlKvMDE9CpXveWuzi-m-3kDQYSMRz7qDQ78Uii2f-YsVDjUwcIU3kPbJPr-1Tl47dnIeoA5jH1F-arbTAmpGhPnkcMJ7yRZcw7y9yrNbsis6rlcYsSsqNq5V0fodCkPlFEYvgp4FgS6Ht6Y/w207-h320/BK_16.jpg" width="207" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7w-VpC6w-oenh-7iSW3JSNDDWxjNCnfd0O_IgVFyM6ZJ58eXLC3PnZl9hvcK4EPCT528CJbICchrFo4hiHlTZF80GMUoXMUUhuv2cKZRclnMye726GRGnUYrf8bLZsbP2LSaCuFXR3f5yy0XEu9NN7xN59oyvpwfYoS3KMZOembGnVPQ5omfOX5uM/s5517/BK_17.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7w-VpC6w-oenh-7iSW3JSNDDWxjNCnfd0O_IgVFyM6ZJ58eXLC3PnZl9hvcK4EPCT528CJbICchrFo4hiHlTZF80GMUoXMUUhuv2cKZRclnMye726GRGnUYrf8bLZsbP2LSaCuFXR3f5yy0XEu9NN7xN59oyvpwfYoS3KMZOembGnVPQ5omfOX5uM/w207-h320/BK_17.jpg" width="207" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Right. These red sleeves are great, but it's getting a bit boring...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Let's do it all again, but with <i>green</i>!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP8O6mHxGHzMfKfdaO9B393EtzhO8xwXpNYrCo42eQIKknhIHNBxckLvWhbIKuLXCAteNeBfB3rlioFi1MB93-Y-c7xmUcOXISoc6IGtV-wq4hq8XY84lIsz9ZhuIMdaMINSF-IW7RwKCfwP34Ko7OCS1mZiFRfnoJUr9WHRsDRNuyxreCFZ45cJK-/s5517/BK_20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP8O6mHxGHzMfKfdaO9B393EtzhO8xwXpNYrCo42eQIKknhIHNBxckLvWhbIKuLXCAteNeBfB3rlioFi1MB93-Y-c7xmUcOXISoc6IGtV-wq4hq8XY84lIsz9ZhuIMdaMINSF-IW7RwKCfwP34Ko7OCS1mZiFRfnoJUr9WHRsDRNuyxreCFZ45cJK-/w207-h320/BK_20.jpg" width="207" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRwnwb_lS6iQWllg0nEJlxfnAxuKcK0rxou4ncZFXmrDNd1bJIpgLk1bY1G31IpCt85bYOhgc4n0JZhwmZVM4QSGoQzBHCGCOu0_TO0JyYtN5zvIlKLZcMaQq3FThePj8IAjQTqRTU1jE6JJ_ccUlpmITUyO6JUZLwBlHuvk7EDYfo7JI7sFxpHd-W/s5517/BK_23.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRwnwb_lS6iQWllg0nEJlxfnAxuKcK0rxou4ncZFXmrDNd1bJIpgLk1bY1G31IpCt85bYOhgc4n0JZhwmZVM4QSGoQzBHCGCOu0_TO0JyYtN5zvIlKLZcMaQq3FThePj8IAjQTqRTU1jE6JJ_ccUlpmITUyO6JUZLwBlHuvk7EDYfo7JI7sFxpHd-W/w207-h320/BK_23.jpg" width="207" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_S7wpAy6ZtFT0EIdIJ-SXLk0lBx4_Tll3dT5vxwCYuCnTZqOeZ71aKAPPvSWjNkTLiJ8hGLmTdTY_3tca52cF3ZVgOkzutS0cEQ0OYb2aVpgU4v-Q-l2iFafPAIt6IQXTmCsWGUPVQrb3fGYk7gc04nCBO6Z4_JzAnoBylVmKMGAv4ZnBm37LTu7X/s5517/BK_22.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_S7wpAy6ZtFT0EIdIJ-SXLk0lBx4_Tll3dT5vxwCYuCnTZqOeZ71aKAPPvSWjNkTLiJ8hGLmTdTY_3tca52cF3ZVgOkzutS0cEQ0OYb2aVpgU4v-Q-l2iFafPAIt6IQXTmCsWGUPVQrb3fGYk7gc04nCBO6Z4_JzAnoBylVmKMGAv4ZnBm37LTu7X/w207-h320/BK_22.jpg" width="207" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWSnCejnKWwTZn1CMZm07W_rdVpp7X-HzCgs4B2jJLGNkLZw_0mF39rP2uBijcNtFG1Q6WI-VUCjy-jwBrxP7BBIzFHprzAQEVMBE2tCExXipDEMSg0y0aPmR70MKDryIoSaNIcUHHA_i-0AJFfY8YiMheYi7GFsU1YJq64TXg3_1VvCSTu8OhCfR8/s5517/BK_24.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWSnCejnKWwTZn1CMZm07W_rdVpp7X-HzCgs4B2jJLGNkLZw_0mF39rP2uBijcNtFG1Q6WI-VUCjy-jwBrxP7BBIzFHprzAQEVMBE2tCExXipDEMSg0y0aPmR70MKDryIoSaNIcUHHA_i-0AJFfY8YiMheYi7GFsU1YJq64TXg3_1VvCSTu8OhCfR8/w207-h320/BK_24.jpg" width="207" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1opx8DM_ujo8WdJ7GJi1Pk-bJ9_4NTDROdzW6R0oQsXWIKiAVrOG5UiVWRL6GfpqXd6k-J6rgW17vtkqkf8NeKlaVLH4qkMiRCaKAbGvXJs3GHASt-JJeVX3tZKe69eHpjhvxGAbPSuU762thng6NQuG5A04yGhsTilzaCvV9puJKRFpHek2TUHqu/s5517/BK_21.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5517" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1opx8DM_ujo8WdJ7GJi1Pk-bJ9_4NTDROdzW6R0oQsXWIKiAVrOG5UiVWRL6GfpqXd6k-J6rgW17vtkqkf8NeKlaVLH4qkMiRCaKAbGvXJs3GHASt-JJeVX3tZKe69eHpjhvxGAbPSuU762thng6NQuG5A04yGhsTilzaCvV9puJKRFpHek2TUHqu/w207-h320/BK_21.jpg" width="207" /></a></div></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next big hat is swapped out for a smaller, conical one and the skirt bustled up for work.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(I think this look is just okay...I really needed a partlet or shoulder linen to get closer to the period images.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHddv-27_UHFF4k492VChDj6n3Itp3OQdWgvQHNIuPpyF-OxGta_BC3YtVH-kKOuykKJDFagi9tywEulWHL4VQ8xi1Wxkz5lhwWlSzeeVasKyLsfxCKgL6q16PoEq7aJ28UWrDbQ8J7oUFUZvy9wR8WsQkKEvxntGCbmoNFypaTmRnywZmhgOEV-w/s5493/BK_25.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5493" data-original-width="3453" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPHddv-27_UHFF4k492VChDj6n3Itp3OQdWgvQHNIuPpyF-OxGta_BC3YtVH-kKOuykKJDFagi9tywEulWHL4VQ8xi1Wxkz5lhwWlSzeeVasKyLsfxCKgL6q16PoEq7aJ28UWrDbQ8J7oUFUZvy9wR8WsQkKEvxntGCbmoNFypaTmRnywZmhgOEV-w/w201-h320/BK_25.jpg" width="201" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FIs_pYupTW1WuU3LEIe72jsQql3D-bFr3p8O6uI0bOS-Sg47tU-uibG2v8GTr-Hj8znqb9YU-ezvYNfxiroWugj6gKVu-hnzdD8do7I72hxP_H_qZmz4g5k0jlg4A_pSMk7G9gydqn4DscKkK5hbGHWGlWdeo6aGR6hR7YBmnuLHxiy_wQSM4qsK/s5493/BK_26.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5493" data-original-width="3453" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FIs_pYupTW1WuU3LEIe72jsQql3D-bFr3p8O6uI0bOS-Sg47tU-uibG2v8GTr-Hj8znqb9YU-ezvYNfxiroWugj6gKVu-hnzdD8do7I72hxP_H_qZmz4g5k0jlg4A_pSMk7G9gydqn4DscKkK5hbGHWGlWdeo6aGR6hR7YBmnuLHxiy_wQSM4qsK/w201-h320/BK_26.jpg" width="201" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Okay, field workers are fun, but it's time to dress things up a bit...</div><div><br /></div><div>Let's start with one of the staples of early Tudor fashion: a black, pointy partlet.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUS3lSKvPCETOyrqcHIyxjV-CzIR62aMeSDNO6N6yupRpr4f6AjyVRWR1wKmZ85BYInJ016NtEJzG3-zWVeKCpwa5S0DR6zB8hrz89GaU5aQvvcCKhtQkiiccPIPQnzH_ub-VjcEU7jGr_LEVXIswizeIBGjat5UB4dBCVe6fwHuS8MTMQg07sjJa7/s556/493F63FC-C54B-493C-B290-3F1E24D46153.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="556" data-original-width="407" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUS3lSKvPCETOyrqcHIyxjV-CzIR62aMeSDNO6N6yupRpr4f6AjyVRWR1wKmZ85BYInJ016NtEJzG3-zWVeKCpwa5S0DR6zB8hrz89GaU5aQvvcCKhtQkiiccPIPQnzH_ub-VjcEU7jGr_LEVXIswizeIBGjat5UB4dBCVe6fwHuS8MTMQg07sjJa7/s320/493F63FC-C54B-493C-B290-3F1E24D46153.jpeg" width="234" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBVjAYBREeCjh1fG6tEm0SR6YNaNgXYTfz2Mzt2b3i4KTJ54qxrsLqnHftuD79ikdZ_Qs0lLIYEA8CsNeKAR3R1CZ8jsmXBE474e3XcK0IxVUFsH4inFa9TYi_NWA9bCRA8UqLz2dZ-sUqMGkpnEb2Pb5vn44mQQ7CTQbU9rGU7ovFGVHOKYcBtA50/s708/49EB16A2-DD91-4B3B-AAE2-632025805D2A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="549" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBVjAYBREeCjh1fG6tEm0SR6YNaNgXYTfz2Mzt2b3i4KTJ54qxrsLqnHftuD79ikdZ_Qs0lLIYEA8CsNeKAR3R1CZ8jsmXBE474e3XcK0IxVUFsH4inFa9TYi_NWA9bCRA8UqLz2dZ-sUqMGkpnEb2Pb5vn44mQQ7CTQbU9rGU7ovFGVHOKYcBtA50/s320/49EB16A2-DD91-4B3B-AAE2-632025805D2A.jpeg" width="248" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Details of two Brueghel paintings</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The partlet is made of black wool and lined in black linen.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(The pattern is self drafted.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTkFY1UkJhowjPE4lNpXEEpjxarfsM9Pm2b31QI5zm3_InJKMDBQ7rT41ZaaAIc3kMpFQwVcSDwPlCTvW3khF3CTTZMxUEUL2Zt5agaOhKFNnDi1AuzCXThLPlcTQejLNz1BvLzL1h3-xMPkUYLvRFTOqIyDVtIPsJLbTKZ6BQXgQCtk_MCr4ajpU/s2641/A1037718-60A2-4E9C-ACC8-C007C771227E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2561" data-original-width="2641" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTkFY1UkJhowjPE4lNpXEEpjxarfsM9Pm2b31QI5zm3_InJKMDBQ7rT41ZaaAIc3kMpFQwVcSDwPlCTvW3khF3CTTZMxUEUL2Zt5agaOhKFNnDi1AuzCXThLPlcTQejLNz1BvLzL1h3-xMPkUYLvRFTOqIyDVtIPsJLbTKZ6BQXgQCtk_MCr4ajpU/s320/A1037718-60A2-4E9C-ACC8-C007C771227E.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLC4Pv8sa_XDWjYcgzXrzzzH8FX-TKm6PwuPyQDQJOPFk0gumVrufH2s5FF_clGBuzRvXA-96zzaadVz6T9vSBiXGTJMXNnyhw_n4EeXZcUlaMA76y9tAO6BxUipZkxdV9dAi5zyvihtAgYuPF88wTUNolEYFungezLzfwfX__CgIQy18NI1PIhvFW/s2758/0555A1C2-E0BF-4C34-8EB0-09CF29096B87.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2677" data-original-width="2758" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLC4Pv8sa_XDWjYcgzXrzzzH8FX-TKm6PwuPyQDQJOPFk0gumVrufH2s5FF_clGBuzRvXA-96zzaadVz6T9vSBiXGTJMXNnyhw_n4EeXZcUlaMA76y9tAO6BxUipZkxdV9dAi5zyvihtAgYuPF88wTUNolEYFungezLzfwfX__CgIQy18NI1PIhvFW/s320/0555A1C2-E0BF-4C34-8EB0-09CF29096B87.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"> A small pewter hook from The Tudor Tailor is stitched to the point.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNLaKwQfBktxAkwB1GVTjHXlVK3jY__6fwYdKaVIyjC4MSmXYf-agP6iu72caWpqmkeCYfNwUUsbpJqIjSdRklqUolQtO0S_TxqyjElwOFnv1Y8tF5F8FqFPQXkP00ihTeGnPBdgUBlOtdGa5kIMnF_O11pNldbLJyKQV1fAaROBEvZFnOf7I-KTnF/s3053/669F6A82-90A3-450B-A77F-C78969F7D6A6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3053" data-original-width="3023" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNLaKwQfBktxAkwB1GVTjHXlVK3jY__6fwYdKaVIyjC4MSmXYf-agP6iu72caWpqmkeCYfNwUUsbpJqIjSdRklqUolQtO0S_TxqyjElwOFnv1Y8tF5F8FqFPQXkP00ihTeGnPBdgUBlOtdGa5kIMnF_O11pNldbLJyKQV1fAaROBEvZFnOf7I-KTnF/w198-h200/669F6A82-90A3-450B-A77F-C78969F7D6A6.jpeg" width="198" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZKfeXjUXe-zvHyr11WDp7o6BXYTmadWs8B8FdS0ExvJpwYicw_effZOtA20ykIleB9f78wob10VjqDckfkh-ki3hqGOfUDNL5mg8OCh2aNrUboBxggqXUbsrTkY5TVA3Ou5aa7FQZRPat_YggF8zQXLk3IO9VxrApAfyHPzMzT-EmQPrAV3Ddxop/s2984/D720A0F3-BD9C-49D5-A2B5-D2486B916918.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2984" data-original-width="2243" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZKfeXjUXe-zvHyr11WDp7o6BXYTmadWs8B8FdS0ExvJpwYicw_effZOtA20ykIleB9f78wob10VjqDckfkh-ki3hqGOfUDNL5mg8OCh2aNrUboBxggqXUbsrTkY5TVA3Ou5aa7FQZRPat_YggF8zQXLk3IO9VxrApAfyHPzMzT-EmQPrAV3Ddxop/w151-h200/D720A0F3-BD9C-49D5-A2B5-D2486B916918.jpeg" width="151" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_d_dvKxn-wBMua0pKNtQ-LAoCkSc-SovDGnHXA2ZbdcRTY3JX8R84-HZJlrJsBafqDw3jzK4c9nzH1xEBPQ8opk255fjR8k_wLxcsosAurXAbf4sMWW9NF7QFX9XlHm-F4av3G52y6lo88tolIAvOBo8pRaPmE9CluC4Y_4ASc4Vu0SmhHDIf8jM6/s3023/DEA54C8C-F7E0-4444-9FF6-13A7C967981A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2895" data-original-width="3023" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_d_dvKxn-wBMua0pKNtQ-LAoCkSc-SovDGnHXA2ZbdcRTY3JX8R84-HZJlrJsBafqDw3jzK4c9nzH1xEBPQ8opk255fjR8k_wLxcsosAurXAbf4sMWW9NF7QFX9XlHm-F4av3G52y6lo88tolIAvOBo8pRaPmE9CluC4Y_4ASc4Vu0SmhHDIf8jM6/s320/DEA54C8C-F7E0-4444-9FF6-13A7C967981A.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is combined with my black apron.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQjR-0XTePE2bO0AaE_JVcsHNe8Zai4qb78rWf-y1p_2eDyjnUUmeImL-dSkjUas1XrMX6ZLP5WgKPtHrPtWRyM_SboGj9dxoRSeqpBU2ZbQj7cm7k1jx8a9WsmNKi4UIhUAoI5qc0tDGlcoS6jD_TJKyZI1zR86Cv1uQagMAkJwpgSAPNJPDA5Fr/s3763/FDB60408-09AE-444E-ACB6-EC1B9BB4A558.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2410" data-original-width="3763" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQjR-0XTePE2bO0AaE_JVcsHNe8Zai4qb78rWf-y1p_2eDyjnUUmeImL-dSkjUas1XrMX6ZLP5WgKPtHrPtWRyM_SboGj9dxoRSeqpBU2ZbQj7cm7k1jx8a9WsmNKi4UIhUAoI5qc0tDGlcoS6jD_TJKyZI1zR86Cv1uQagMAkJwpgSAPNJPDA5Fr/s320/FDB60408-09AE-444E-ACB6-EC1B9BB4A558.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And a large, white, felted hat from <a href="https://www.sallypointer.com/">Sally Pointer</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-njoPd_dJLFy7VxWZQbTOn21BOTcYc55r1WwPUV4Jkrb4EpUi-vRYs1NabW2TLzCdOdO_ZgikyBJTBN-W0Z6gnNLVNn7bYiNrjL4yHX2jLQT1LBplOGqYEFaM1nxJePK7SfQ-8BUel_m_Fu3RvXyJB7T4CBj0hY7NuzUVfh-ynsJi8GOXVt7BL0e/s3919/B21E3F7F-7B87-46C0-9A6E-2CC2377AE499.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3919" data-original-width="2939" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-njoPd_dJLFy7VxWZQbTOn21BOTcYc55r1WwPUV4Jkrb4EpUi-vRYs1NabW2TLzCdOdO_ZgikyBJTBN-W0Z6gnNLVNn7bYiNrjL4yHX2jLQT1LBplOGqYEFaM1nxJePK7SfQ-8BUel_m_Fu3RvXyJB7T4CBj0hY7NuzUVfh-ynsJi8GOXVt7BL0e/s320/B21E3F7F-7B87-46C0-9A6E-2CC2377AE499.jpeg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEvRWl-ioHXLDfNTqlrwHSm29j-0rkCoa2vHi9BwmgWE7aNMCG1oQnGZe8ljx-NQmZBweedV0D9t1jK11Sa7Um2_ajGdOmKSoAjo6UJtkUqbN7jBYn7r8WjkEK9dhvMa4K2wWBmlDSRILDVV2BcSd_iTDwkrzi8VjZETD1xmKtyp3KMaMkgSwjtcIL/s3786/EB1DFA44-D91A-438D-88D0-08B1DC8B610B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3786" data-original-width="2608" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEvRWl-ioHXLDfNTqlrwHSm29j-0rkCoa2vHi9BwmgWE7aNMCG1oQnGZe8ljx-NQmZBweedV0D9t1jK11Sa7Um2_ajGdOmKSoAjo6UJtkUqbN7jBYn7r8WjkEK9dhvMa4K2wWBmlDSRILDVV2BcSd_iTDwkrzi8VjZETD1xmKtyp3KMaMkgSwjtcIL/s320/EB1DFA44-D91A-438D-88D0-08B1DC8B610B.jpeg" width="220" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-DiVKE7Sr_ke2LfXtEP_3mV-1lRAhrBBqdjDw7YMxisGIZYbHYbS16dM1NnYkr9_zicBs8byZywSbj2IV41P8nBipYiKT1e6AJCVeiOyCqeYigGWOyihwtiQlUZpajoKWscp5j6W74b1hYMS0oYe2s23xZViNjZcMF9XjrALYJ2Y2ZznjeG8RaMcp/s2932/3A3949FF-D6C5-482C-908C-198969E22222.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2405" data-original-width="2932" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-DiVKE7Sr_ke2LfXtEP_3mV-1lRAhrBBqdjDw7YMxisGIZYbHYbS16dM1NnYkr9_zicBs8byZywSbj2IV41P8nBipYiKT1e6AJCVeiOyCqeYigGWOyihwtiQlUZpajoKWscp5j6W74b1hYMS0oYe2s23xZViNjZcMF9XjrALYJ2Y2ZznjeG8RaMcp/s320/3A3949FF-D6C5-482C-908C-198969E22222.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And finally, a pair of white wool sleeves.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnby3rHyb5BugpY5CceKbNVWyl05tsZy1i9mKYvntZ_rF-IrIks0iO7NGUy9Pln1m-gcfrnj0tUL_BUgdrustPjgNQLv5huhyPcrGqHVCgr6zKd9j3rsAG1ABpDkdGoBzWlntB__DuuFHK6e0D3XzGVvflqSwUN7yNC1CaEPwzntXEUJ_jcFU3wcfu/s5557/BK_67%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnby3rHyb5BugpY5CceKbNVWyl05tsZy1i9mKYvntZ_rF-IrIks0iO7NGUy9Pln1m-gcfrnj0tUL_BUgdrustPjgNQLv5huhyPcrGqHVCgr6zKd9j3rsAG1ABpDkdGoBzWlntB__DuuFHK6e0D3XzGVvflqSwUN7yNC1CaEPwzntXEUJ_jcFU3wcfu/s320/BK_67%20copy.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGz0sJPE3vAu30RGz8GFi5ZIWAoBLGQbgYm7eUfb-0TzBkwMS_opMo-a_dCGHurmxnLfxHCJIz5VeZfMlV7mToLKkemIxAtm2ElvGFR5W55kgp54ElbQRLgd1ejqsND0JrsAnvyZo0F9UauWpsqQYqStXM_DLw0JZUUtEs-dyLkuQuRpOEMfOWu5cH/s5557/BK_71%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGz0sJPE3vAu30RGz8GFi5ZIWAoBLGQbgYm7eUfb-0TzBkwMS_opMo-a_dCGHurmxnLfxHCJIz5VeZfMlV7mToLKkemIxAtm2ElvGFR5W55kgp54ElbQRLgd1ejqsND0JrsAnvyZo0F9UauWpsqQYqStXM_DLw0JZUUtEs-dyLkuQuRpOEMfOWu5cH/s320/BK_71%20copy.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujr_S6EzLoJ93R-LbPc0HM9ZznQLVEMwXf7Ad70J7QveinLk9Br4RYo1VjguvBwTEo67jKoU9mKWEDurvaFO-IPrEZL3P2dg-rVZrBmCPVu3agGKjkNAt3Fmm0kMzdCBMTejcTN3ROV1TDB5O1nsvrhxOfYIotrv_kLlPPKakRw3B50jV65slmHGE/s5557/BK_72%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujr_S6EzLoJ93R-LbPc0HM9ZznQLVEMwXf7Ad70J7QveinLk9Br4RYo1VjguvBwTEo67jKoU9mKWEDurvaFO-IPrEZL3P2dg-rVZrBmCPVu3agGKjkNAt3Fmm0kMzdCBMTejcTN3ROV1TDB5O1nsvrhxOfYIotrv_kLlPPKakRw3B50jV65slmHGE/s320/BK_72%20copy.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsfr58V9PUYcqCzLTfEVMGEWLqaMSYyewpIo_dU3AYgvj_fxU9aEz0r3S1tKQ0SYIJaaf0BvFgp7TBUdPb2bo7fgdxEZ0pphZogJ_1TUi-XiB10nTLHEWW4iuFXpGjZvJXM7GnAQig0GrTNFqlWoeogx22iOBiSxXozXLjQmnwvDh_DS2wADp5eymL/s5557/BK_68%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsfr58V9PUYcqCzLTfEVMGEWLqaMSYyewpIo_dU3AYgvj_fxU9aEz0r3S1tKQ0SYIJaaf0BvFgp7TBUdPb2bo7fgdxEZ0pphZogJ_1TUi-XiB10nTLHEWW4iuFXpGjZvJXM7GnAQig0GrTNFqlWoeogx22iOBiSxXozXLjQmnwvDh_DS2wADp5eymL/s320/BK_68%20copy.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9U5IssTEBhJrAZN7avz1Q1ak0v6oguJ32WHvs4WDz8qSTbmwGO5eGAoHajWw4KUg5ZKzUsQ4TtkXOwZG-BX_OsycRgIoEcSCGvcVwy2gQwxbt9FC-TTkvMgxk0C3my9VgfzSxXUPjmtDipDaEPqDHv1P9pAFvjC0N0heo9tzgiyxoO8DWpypkjokX/s5557/BK_69%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9U5IssTEBhJrAZN7avz1Q1ak0v6oguJ32WHvs4WDz8qSTbmwGO5eGAoHajWw4KUg5ZKzUsQ4TtkXOwZG-BX_OsycRgIoEcSCGvcVwy2gQwxbt9FC-TTkvMgxk0C3my9VgfzSxXUPjmtDipDaEPqDHv1P9pAFvjC0N0heo9tzgiyxoO8DWpypkjokX/s320/BK_69%20copy.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheYsLnFNE531dr2GR15vS7J1Ov6z7HN2qzlPbS-OPpldRMfX-ctoQkrhz5nFazutT3VJZGTcrrFljC3tuwjxPGmx-sq034mZT026X3Z4RM51oJDSKU1JVw0HxJbLERtuIEdPWXYBDoxRHGnoEikkjvsuWuKcIy5kQTMDfad6bzieJNt6I_86cjk0j3/s5557/BK_70%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheYsLnFNE531dr2GR15vS7J1Ov6z7HN2qzlPbS-OPpldRMfX-ctoQkrhz5nFazutT3VJZGTcrrFljC3tuwjxPGmx-sq034mZT026X3Z4RM51oJDSKU1JVw0HxJbLERtuIEdPWXYBDoxRHGnoEikkjvsuWuKcIy5kQTMDfad6bzieJNt6I_86cjk0j3/s320/BK_70%20copy.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I like this look a lot.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I feel like you most often see this style of hat worn with a large, linen shoulder square (as in several Holbein paintings and sketches). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I did make a linen yard square specifically for that purpose....and then forgot to get any photos of it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Oh, well...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Lastly, one of the inspiration images that kicked off the blue kirtle project to begin with: A Witches' Coven! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(I mean, who doesn't love a good hexing?)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0nwGVGv69xRgqFe3BVd35Wdj4bGpMaXpZbWa-TTVEOmNcVIQd_wBMv9PH0ppYjBPxLxy1P2A07stBvW7nrOscpfIV7Rbwg_R1OAtFr66BCpx2mveNGk8XYvoJpQB6FJur8CFtOET7ACxWthqKf3FiX9H-Acz3jHTN4FspebumP-sFweB5LnlSCnO-/s2070/16512D68-A02A-4D94-8AAF-ED22C2CE33F2.webp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="2070" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0nwGVGv69xRgqFe3BVd35Wdj4bGpMaXpZbWa-TTVEOmNcVIQd_wBMv9PH0ppYjBPxLxy1P2A07stBvW7nrOscpfIV7Rbwg_R1OAtFr66BCpx2mveNGk8XYvoJpQB6FJur8CFtOET7ACxWthqKf3FiX9H-Acz3jHTN4FspebumP-sFweB5LnlSCnO-/w400-h194/16512D68-A02A-4D94-8AAF-ED22C2CE33F2.webp" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The Witches' Cove, Follower of Jan Mandijn</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7TvIag5GR50imDMRUuPjKcMcBW1yu64kIFF7TEwG-D7m69Tzj1sdHMsQ3sSiOjjkfyqNXw56K9MOe2BByDb4cMeP98gErxzgThTqUell0eO0bRvXihw27AAs6ZNr02DLFm28BY2qbrgxGeQmIX1FUIk8cjOfVlihDCvQi_pTXUPir0ZSIl8Vc8F8z/s1084/5FF743BD-021B-4A1C-9666-15C9F45A0689.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="1084" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7TvIag5GR50imDMRUuPjKcMcBW1yu64kIFF7TEwG-D7m69Tzj1sdHMsQ3sSiOjjkfyqNXw56K9MOe2BByDb4cMeP98gErxzgThTqUell0eO0bRvXihw27AAs6ZNr02DLFm28BY2qbrgxGeQmIX1FUIk8cjOfVlihDCvQi_pTXUPir0ZSIl8Vc8F8z/s320/5FF743BD-021B-4A1C-9666-15C9F45A0689.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The ensemble uses most of the pieces from the outfit above, but with the white sleeves swapped for light yellow ones.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSE3i49D0EmYEjkFhslLqPCwlLfxNGTdLnou8548c2_j8pd295RrWDAh_3fws7234mjHkhZnPlOfLV4MTDzjpaOuCniEKafIayA4sia-1cD29dpyLXAWJtxHgog0LbHf_f-SMmV4QeacziqyLt3HnLt-2NleE-WasrH1NGzOPmUf6PBtY-yVTrVGu2/s5557/BK_63.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSE3i49D0EmYEjkFhslLqPCwlLfxNGTdLnou8548c2_j8pd295RrWDAh_3fws7234mjHkhZnPlOfLV4MTDzjpaOuCniEKafIayA4sia-1cD29dpyLXAWJtxHgog0LbHf_f-SMmV4QeacziqyLt3HnLt-2NleE-WasrH1NGzOPmUf6PBtY-yVTrVGu2/s320/BK_63.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghhKdBS7aci1AlISzuX5tuJj2_7XUinzD2iAGrgG0hVVcsMn4BllI6Bx-qMsrIaxopx_rbxzI2D0Qs9aHcSW9JY7pntevcbPcGLUuHZ53ZwDZxXsmHN2eaOqNrjNn5SmE-7R7v7jWhlmcmfkTOrV_HPkiWVUB4VFDQyGCMAFgYieZTekS_acMcND6e/s5557/BK_64.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghhKdBS7aci1AlISzuX5tuJj2_7XUinzD2iAGrgG0hVVcsMn4BllI6Bx-qMsrIaxopx_rbxzI2D0Qs9aHcSW9JY7pntevcbPcGLUuHZ53ZwDZxXsmHN2eaOqNrjNn5SmE-7R7v7jWhlmcmfkTOrV_HPkiWVUB4VFDQyGCMAFgYieZTekS_acMcND6e/s320/BK_64.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And of course every self-respecting Witch needs a broom!</div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihR_o7muK5CJQpxosI-3-FqeMqngj7meVsvDWu5FLGwM-rQpTXpe9UAx2XUM2Nen44Fod5y0VHXXEKwFGSOT0kU65K8H-3svQf_8GidOGanm88zHoRFOZjC-yhssUV3ElOCHgaV8vy5SknfUc_ksVhZb-5joO_s0WfbqXsilPF1cvGJqGfEyiCh5Ak/s5557/BK_66.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihR_o7muK5CJQpxosI-3-FqeMqngj7meVsvDWu5FLGwM-rQpTXpe9UAx2XUM2Nen44Fod5y0VHXXEKwFGSOT0kU65K8H-3svQf_8GidOGanm88zHoRFOZjC-yhssUV3ElOCHgaV8vy5SknfUc_ksVhZb-5joO_s0WfbqXsilPF1cvGJqGfEyiCh5Ak/s320/BK_66.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEqQ6vHUPaB65qUwxnc27u-87x-sIK5O2MsBj-v7DYFaeCkBoHHBCKOgkVFqm0lum_8VWGSZcVn_XXwRF_axkWaouPKhwi-YGi59_nuZdzQ6Svhc4Lx4B3e1FghB9JmRNnPHSKf1nA2ARRwa4wBdbnEhL1EZQ0PWAoeZlB2Febnx5-nRJJ1D-T7JQn/s5557/BK_65.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEqQ6vHUPaB65qUwxnc27u-87x-sIK5O2MsBj-v7DYFaeCkBoHHBCKOgkVFqm0lum_8VWGSZcVn_XXwRF_axkWaouPKhwi-YGi59_nuZdzQ6Svhc4Lx4B3e1FghB9JmRNnPHSKf1nA2ARRwa4wBdbnEhL1EZQ0PWAoeZlB2Febnx5-nRJJ1D-T7JQn/s320/BK_65.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ZZJ-UqJs4RlkwDcf9d0WvXM7qhyE7-zl63ogha5_HltThnB8c3zIoGD3zsCYReQ-aCJOASWUyBs3GqnmNpH9FxK5E1fazQoc9BneG_wz2Xmix7Y2yHgqcr8NSRpsdN1C4pQY4HK-pQ95Ihobt0HoqycpbU8J9w-Fqc5OBcdiGWfQy5AVWluwB5Ra/s4319/BK_74.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3153" data-original-width="4319" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ZZJ-UqJs4RlkwDcf9d0WvXM7qhyE7-zl63ogha5_HltThnB8c3zIoGD3zsCYReQ-aCJOASWUyBs3GqnmNpH9FxK5E1fazQoc9BneG_wz2Xmix7Y2yHgqcr8NSRpsdN1C4pQY4HK-pQ95Ihobt0HoqycpbU8J9w-Fqc5OBcdiGWfQy5AVWluwB5Ra/s320/BK_74.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifgtug10-a8-QmCheO8BFtwp-qUHisvUpaAKCcsGIoX0ejHRHEmH5kAlLJqp70wv0CbgLzl8dk3-xyGd0AbnT34yuySD76dBX-bE6109monCPTVBS2QYS_RaeYtev2YV7nnBtkEySNKop12bGWxf29QpZFG8W2mOotm7OxZOWab1lnNgMsCyutFZJP/s3840/BK_73.jpg" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3807" data-original-width="3840" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifgtug10-a8-QmCheO8BFtwp-qUHisvUpaAKCcsGIoX0ejHRHEmH5kAlLJqp70wv0CbgLzl8dk3-xyGd0AbnT34yuySD76dBX-bE6109monCPTVBS2QYS_RaeYtev2YV7nnBtkEySNKop12bGWxf29QpZFG8W2mOotm7OxZOWab1lnNgMsCyutFZJP/s320/BK_73.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And that's it! Blue kirtle Mix & Match is (sort of) complete!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Really, I could have tried even more iterations and combinations but ran out of time.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">However, I did take a couple of more costume-y variations....but this post was already getting crazy long, so look for that in a separate upload later this week.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(NOTE: That post can now be found <b><i><a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/06/blue-kirtle-mix-match-2-medieval-ish.html">HERE</a></i></b>)</div><br /><div style="text-align: center;">***</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-83560263647702138702023-05-20T22:22:00.004-07:002023-05-20T22:22:47.021-07:00Blue Kirtle "At the Renaissance Faire"<div style="text-align: center;"> ***</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhysma9DagvGXOV7CrZdbeAfjRNA4GzrU1S9667FoReadq7vcq2k11qDN1ntd22AA5PFG5WIJbQ3EhhLkzfb_-SRfBP2306L0pIfDy9CQtkuQCbjA084TXks4Ue6-jE98KvhPxKIv4WpNHCveMtOvyTFU8R2FY9EoatXYHEGgrqXB1zUgaynhUoNNXQ/s3847/BKF_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3847" data-original-width="2351" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhysma9DagvGXOV7CrZdbeAfjRNA4GzrU1S9667FoReadq7vcq2k11qDN1ntd22AA5PFG5WIJbQ3EhhLkzfb_-SRfBP2306L0pIfDy9CQtkuQCbjA084TXks4Ue6-jE98KvhPxKIv4WpNHCveMtOvyTFU8R2FY9EoatXYHEGgrqXB1zUgaynhUoNNXQ/s320/BKF_02.jpg" width="196" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCSKRTtFSl6ZaW2xRSunLbnrLEArQ5abJt2rGu7wtsV6VOB3XY263yYaMrDAswMyioI6VW1YCymzkxOcIHDxbmqWPXyT1s5_OXk8mKKYY-NQjrMeyflw-hM9MrMYtUXCji-DiTtQUOEBHowXgp0H7SkWB48hRqh8RX_rPHlUzd0yqkrQOaQjXoqrX3/s3022/BKF_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="2032" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCSKRTtFSl6ZaW2xRSunLbnrLEArQ5abJt2rGu7wtsV6VOB3XY263yYaMrDAswMyioI6VW1YCymzkxOcIHDxbmqWPXyT1s5_OXk8mKKYY-NQjrMeyflw-hM9MrMYtUXCji-DiTtQUOEBHowXgp0H7SkWB48hRqh8RX_rPHlUzd0yqkrQOaQjXoqrX3/s320/BKF_01.jpg" width="215" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">This past weekend I took my new <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/05/blue-short-sleeved-kirtle.html">Blue Kirtle</a> out for a spin at the SoCal Renaissance Faire. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvmAB81L-vr2i5_I0DPDIRZmakH1qN5T011RahZ6gJDuh303kEZqe6yZ2Wam-PKIXDJFvFplebIcpf1DmljNp56bvkqsE5i-mhEoYyozMYWfq9_R7tarFkhThkPJ281qggJKcB6qZfY6WMbjpEzk8HHY3JBQG_naBrnXZE3dHUQQxkwU6Msok2JhnG/s1200/BKF_09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1200" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvmAB81L-vr2i5_I0DPDIRZmakH1qN5T011RahZ6gJDuh303kEZqe6yZ2Wam-PKIXDJFvFplebIcpf1DmljNp56bvkqsE5i-mhEoYyozMYWfq9_R7tarFkhThkPJ281qggJKcB6qZfY6WMbjpEzk8HHY3JBQG_naBrnXZE3dHUQQxkwU6Msok2JhnG/w400-h266/BKF_09.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A lovely photo taken by another patron!</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The kirtle has been re-styled with red sleeves, a beige apron and giant straw hat.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">More on this later when I do an follow up with a full "Mix & Max" post...but for now here are a bunch of super blown out and blurry photos of me goofing around in the parking lot!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig3O57YLKaw1mmHirYDTHD0Rr5-FASeBX1vLMqJDblB0Xj3d-kih0DvLcf2tbs9CSR9vwsTDpcp8zQU08hshNRZqB93iK7-FV97yL5AsNGdRfMcpXzbZe6G3_2YOL3mthVeO9A0VvU-LLEdBpPknorlGEOVr_yR6UED7aw6nOhEbTKDCv1Ipc_1Vzg/s4032/BKF_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig3O57YLKaw1mmHirYDTHD0Rr5-FASeBX1vLMqJDblB0Xj3d-kih0DvLcf2tbs9CSR9vwsTDpcp8zQU08hshNRZqB93iK7-FV97yL5AsNGdRfMcpXzbZe6G3_2YOL3mthVeO9A0VvU-LLEdBpPknorlGEOVr_yR6UED7aw6nOhEbTKDCv1Ipc_1Vzg/s320/BKF_06.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9WpEKWcHEjvcW5XxDceOPMmtev0EZTvr1XWfFDkjocY01zStlkfOAJxZ25HaRvCxtSqQ9STIg7RDpaxkxxnhAefoe-hMDs2R0s011rIBpZ30hLI_fdVjFjYOka-eokur26c6ickrUyj2BagaHICcMN-tLSeGra3eOYtm8N00Lja_mnb79_LU6c8Cq/s4032/BKF_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9WpEKWcHEjvcW5XxDceOPMmtev0EZTvr1XWfFDkjocY01zStlkfOAJxZ25HaRvCxtSqQ9STIg7RDpaxkxxnhAefoe-hMDs2R0s011rIBpZ30hLI_fdVjFjYOka-eokur26c6ickrUyj2BagaHICcMN-tLSeGra3eOYtm8N00Lja_mnb79_LU6c8Cq/s320/BKF_07.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZSmUb_gdN0KeDJLGozC-M4MNKPz4qE_4N10yur_AuGhuX_gCjDWI9Qlbr_D7jxgEQ3MPqmItwYLEsDEwFMU5ikXK8paSa7OhaexBSQz-zoFBJfpWVwk2Pyrl9lpyZlfupP2X5v5c-LC3IFvwb1JQqLbQqhn3QxbQtFUT_TSTglYEenFn_BAB4uvyC/s4032/BKF_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZSmUb_gdN0KeDJLGozC-M4MNKPz4qE_4N10yur_AuGhuX_gCjDWI9Qlbr_D7jxgEQ3MPqmItwYLEsDEwFMU5ikXK8paSa7OhaexBSQz-zoFBJfpWVwk2Pyrl9lpyZlfupP2X5v5c-LC3IFvwb1JQqLbQqhn3QxbQtFUT_TSTglYEenFn_BAB4uvyC/w300-h400/BKF_05.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidJFzYRuCzY7iUuQOpkPAezjkVez50pEtx_LzOkH_JFn8t6CYNThIUxqXO3GY-6LnaEdayBmhNNPormzMtr4IOZ-iQI2PuR5GN73Bg_Z4ThDE4a_8Dm7txbXoX4hmO3Z5f4aEH9a_9wRV8UVj45TRww5Gql76ZL8HtrPq0dm-HMZ2SBw6FiFJkfGDm/s4032/BKF_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidJFzYRuCzY7iUuQOpkPAezjkVez50pEtx_LzOkH_JFn8t6CYNThIUxqXO3GY-6LnaEdayBmhNNPormzMtr4IOZ-iQI2PuR5GN73Bg_Z4ThDE4a_8Dm7txbXoX4hmO3Z5f4aEH9a_9wRV8UVj45TRww5Gql76ZL8HtrPq0dm-HMZ2SBw6FiFJkfGDm/w300-h400/BKF_08.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-57113062151399223242023-05-20T13:52:00.023-07:002023-06-19T21:24:32.260-07:00Blue Short-Sleeved Kirtle<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pCOxgHnPzvNWJbkprMddqsesBgX8TIZ3BrcVF_E-GNfn7o9i4BFVT422zkKSB11tDCiXPCh0g54Tzfg0EwI_f7fgM34jo3D7-41orpXBKgn5fg2v0idUARAkpNrixflGWq7O94zMVBK4MaucnVh-Li7vi4qw4Uoo5zbBWUcKi9HivvPBnvSEdgcB/s5557/BK_01A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pCOxgHnPzvNWJbkprMddqsesBgX8TIZ3BrcVF_E-GNfn7o9i4BFVT422zkKSB11tDCiXPCh0g54Tzfg0EwI_f7fgM34jo3D7-41orpXBKgn5fg2v0idUARAkpNrixflGWq7O94zMVBK4MaucnVh-Li7vi4qw4Uoo5zbBWUcKi9HivvPBnvSEdgcB/w205-h320/BK_01A.jpg" width="205" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtdVNd7bYv-BMFKc-HJfZ7i2fyZB9Tp9Z1Y_FcyauGI5eFihJXtw5U_BFCypHBdQ1hv_n4hmCtaUeWEg52X_ukgCmmt8Tk0Etxkm3jPyIXQDPpb1llDdSvIB7EcDY_0By4CcjnQ0bICKmzW261QKak80x8u49Ml0g9xifRQVd8szDZsVRLZxnPI00P/s5587/BK_06B.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5587" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtdVNd7bYv-BMFKc-HJfZ7i2fyZB9Tp9Z1Y_FcyauGI5eFihJXtw5U_BFCypHBdQ1hv_n4hmCtaUeWEg52X_ukgCmmt8Tk0Etxkm3jPyIXQDPpb1llDdSvIB7EcDY_0By4CcjnQ0bICKmzW261QKak80x8u49Ml0g9xifRQVd8szDZsVRLZxnPI00P/w204-h320/BK_06B.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My first foray into early period! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">While my heart still belongs to the insanity of the 1590s and beyond, I have to say that I have a soft spot for the simpler, elegant lines of the early 16th c. silhouette.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's just so darn pretty!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Having said that, it should come as no surprise that this outfit (as usual) began life as something else.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'd long been planning on making an early-period kirtle inspired by one found in the 1545 Hampton Court painting of The Field of the Cloth of Gold, 1520 (lower right hand corner).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSK7nOuyphtDIiYfe4b4bWRxj9Bf_USKwy2ji7VVzaDlpyJnBW23i0Gju8ecxBIrdIbIvy0vDvce-kGZG1ZtN0DzTvXJ5KDhfSdqEZaF_kAUr7kTMChUFZc9o2oSiEvAOl1B-ROnqMzjELSq_Yclr2OJ7dZpYFT6l57Yx-xJQHhsYp0ggPQAHX9D-/s2250/DDEE37BF-00AF-4A3B-B75F-7CFAA6BEF2D3.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1090" data-original-width="2250" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSK7nOuyphtDIiYfe4b4bWRxj9Bf_USKwy2ji7VVzaDlpyJnBW23i0Gju8ecxBIrdIbIvy0vDvce-kGZG1ZtN0DzTvXJ5KDhfSdqEZaF_kAUr7kTMChUFZc9o2oSiEvAOl1B-ROnqMzjELSq_Yclr2OJ7dZpYFT6l57Yx-xJQHhsYp0ggPQAHX9D-/s320/DDEE37BF-00AF-4A3B-B75F-7CFAA6BEF2D3.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdyFRzgjdP0OoPd5sNMLxmv6OgsXCoqyU7Yv4GUHH_HLt-AFcBSNQOFK6X8n25-VA3mqlx2xzXdgW-CIpMTB0EsZ26TvRBlQYTZE2NV2LcdvtQUgzRs7QKd3oK2gYdEEa5y37IfAxd3zke8Sph2fz-BSXxL_ASUV-9CBbPAaO_ocsHW_3r9WXcn2m/s1480/B05D84C8-BD9E-48F2-A281-1CF0814AFFAF.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1317" data-original-width="1480" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdyFRzgjdP0OoPd5sNMLxmv6OgsXCoqyU7Yv4GUHH_HLt-AFcBSNQOFK6X8n25-VA3mqlx2xzXdgW-CIpMTB0EsZ26TvRBlQYTZE2NV2LcdvtQUgzRs7QKd3oK2gYdEEa5y37IfAxd3zke8Sph2fz-BSXxL_ASUV-9CBbPAaO_ocsHW_3r9WXcn2m/s320/B05D84C8-BD9E-48F2-A281-1CF0814AFFAF.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMhL3a7btGX_mQldGUhaxFHS_flLJIKQJUPK6JHdTd8yL8-fPCVz4pLKrSSsd4MPOkUCrolForObMrvwISUA5kHD412Oecchgh6jaKTZfkM2SITSXXQXasO-jvDVFYfau7ZNucsFT3lf6EooYFzbS7qfjU42dvZIyneuGc3Rq_8G6_xufJtc9_6Om/s1426/8C3FEDB8-B7EC-468E-BF1F-126BD7EF029E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1426" data-original-width="968" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMhL3a7btGX_mQldGUhaxFHS_flLJIKQJUPK6JHdTd8yL8-fPCVz4pLKrSSsd4MPOkUCrolForObMrvwISUA5kHD412Oecchgh6jaKTZfkM2SITSXXQXasO-jvDVFYfau7ZNucsFT3lf6EooYFzbS7qfjU42dvZIyneuGc3Rq_8G6_xufJtc9_6Om/s320/8C3FEDB8-B7EC-468E-BF1F-126BD7EF029E.jpeg" width="217" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I had plenty of red wool left over from my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2017/01/petticoat-bodies.html">petticoat bodies</a> and always intended to make a kirtle out of it. This seemed like the perfect opportunity! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I already had a black apron and partlet, so all I needed was to a half-yard of yellow wool for half-sleeves and I could whip out a fast, easy, summer project! No problem!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Well, famous last words...as usual.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Right out of the gate I struggled with a mockup. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I decided to try a pattern from 'The Queen's Servants' (by The Tudor Tailor), but I ended up falling in between two sizes and really wrestled to get a fit I liked. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To be fair, this isn't the fault of the pattern. I become oddly obsessed with folds under the arm, which in all honestly likely would have resolved themselves in the final garment.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But I COULD. NOT. LET. IT. GO.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXKnDmguMWnAUWjPMmbxh5ygxtw4ei-t1cYTezoH0JQVJCOJ4ccG1La85T5KorPlv6_oS2ceUFOCg1TyFLuqMxJLItq96lfDjGAmPo7NZarEFwzU-zERiMM3kIG0GCs5IUbzDy4yZ7wSDOOwMR-vdwGAm6H7itT7yjc-Lzk2fMMRhoNsUhCo7bUDq/s960/6175CBEC-2ED0-4884-97CA-B7BB9C276E7A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="657" data-original-width="960" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXKnDmguMWnAUWjPMmbxh5ygxtw4ei-t1cYTezoH0JQVJCOJ4ccG1La85T5KorPlv6_oS2ceUFOCg1TyFLuqMxJLItq96lfDjGAmPo7NZarEFwzU-zERiMM3kIG0GCs5IUbzDy4yZ7wSDOOwMR-vdwGAm6H7itT7yjc-Lzk2fMMRhoNsUhCo7bUDq/s320/6175CBEC-2ED0-4884-97CA-B7BB9C276E7A.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0NgNcgi5o3QsEn50X7U49y2HO9j3qK5bswcgtN1YJFq6Opl1uOv78dGqRcKsuPA6ZpuY3Yikjkbeb5USAXA5ujQpaJ_3NuqwKdm7y1izb58spUMtdXVWVKweNayg5UClmVaOLsTjqHbbA9q3UTYxzPImf2xRkRKitJhMguFpeTliOq7nY2jrHVYmR/s960/B261ECC6-A8C5-4063-BA73-565E1A293B96.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="833" data-original-width="960" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0NgNcgi5o3QsEn50X7U49y2HO9j3qK5bswcgtN1YJFq6Opl1uOv78dGqRcKsuPA6ZpuY3Yikjkbeb5USAXA5ujQpaJ_3NuqwKdm7y1izb58spUMtdXVWVKweNayg5UClmVaOLsTjqHbbA9q3UTYxzPImf2xRkRKitJhMguFpeTliOq7nY2jrHVYmR/s320/B261ECC6-A8C5-4063-BA73-565E1A293B96.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After MONTHS of going in circles and countless mockups I finally thought, "This is ridiculous. You have bodice pattern that fits. You've made it three times before. You know it works, for the love of god, stop this insanity and just use that."</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So I did.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But I had to tweak it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The bodice in question is the same pattern I've been using since my blue <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2018/10/blue-trevelyon-gown.html">Trevelyon gown</a> (check out that post of you want a step by step construction of the original bodice). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">However, this doesn't shape really work for early period. It's too long in the torso and has a fairly long front point. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH6PCWxw49YFJIXOIXUPG0x5XWUH0WeIGbXftRc0S_FzBg5e5jiszDQ9EyNkfTNyIS-BIb2JV03a92m7iTXYZmovwOEOZHDS4AfN1dEv5_ckI7rZV8WzSrOv7gL__NKjwxPopQWJq8P4UNnZtyhkH88VWku9Z_LH3_5fc9gv5grmgUbmZe7W-UgT4V/s2048/DSC03726.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1279" data-original-width="2048" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH6PCWxw49YFJIXOIXUPG0x5XWUH0WeIGbXftRc0S_FzBg5e5jiszDQ9EyNkfTNyIS-BIb2JV03a92m7iTXYZmovwOEOZHDS4AfN1dEv5_ckI7rZV8WzSrOv7gL__NKjwxPopQWJq8P4UNnZtyhkH88VWku9Z_LH3_5fc9gv5grmgUbmZe7W-UgT4V/s320/DSC03726.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The sides will need to be shortened and the point removed. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Also, the neckline should be lower and and a tad wider.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, the side-back seams pose a bit of a problem. As you can see, the bodice has a fairly narrow back piece...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht9_OdY7ulkkE1MYamxBsr4b3KL78Yy-67MxgwRWjzaj__GVCC_k34KGGmZRre6Er3SD1PUGkYpEhTuj2xN56ZqAy71EExzQJtFxeLRFZM26au1vBWskAvdSs5M01448IRchrBo4pgFPItt5d7FDYM859cvn-ZwI_EnaOJXk0OdOUmlEH8AJktuFGz/s3116/1BD2F145-FDB7-461B-ADBD-8545A2A73398.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2813" data-original-width="3116" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht9_OdY7ulkkE1MYamxBsr4b3KL78Yy-67MxgwRWjzaj__GVCC_k34KGGmZRre6Er3SD1PUGkYpEhTuj2xN56ZqAy71EExzQJtFxeLRFZM26au1vBWskAvdSs5M01448IRchrBo4pgFPItt5d7FDYM859cvn-ZwI_EnaOJXk0OdOUmlEH8AJktuFGz/s320/1BD2F145-FDB7-461B-ADBD-8545A2A73398.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...however, I want to add additional seams to mimic the look of gowns seen in Bruegel paintings. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(It's not strictly necessary, but my thinking is that I can use this project as a quasi-mockup in preparation for a Bruegel inspired outfit down the road).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJcpFTSnTBQgeDImIrnAIFF6iCoXUyOfdbarATfsGXTStGpZKwiHFRRoBdPhjOemeBk75VuEQfCWbMNaX5eIfZQPLn3uppTMsidZkWkmpB5utv_trnbJlQXYBiuT33ZICtUpzNEceOBMRkYhUa4V_zdZAwgdALrEuqPKpSgBQ8Br6XclpxaXfDkQwV/s422/90A917AC-AC79-44A1-ABB1-482F948A24B0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="422" data-original-width="323" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJcpFTSnTBQgeDImIrnAIFF6iCoXUyOfdbarATfsGXTStGpZKwiHFRRoBdPhjOemeBk75VuEQfCWbMNaX5eIfZQPLn3uppTMsidZkWkmpB5utv_trnbJlQXYBiuT33ZICtUpzNEceOBMRkYhUa4V_zdZAwgdALrEuqPKpSgBQ8Br6XclpxaXfDkQwV/s320/90A917AC-AC79-44A1-ABB1-482F948A24B0.jpeg" width="245" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kB5pzNiJuZIkpI72JLkpHyPy3wb4CvNoIGUGDizJG_obhEk0h3uHl8kRgtZezp08JlY88wjCr59SJF0OHnBFiGtW_mc3rVXFojLrPU5MG9ZwSD8vIkSe5QW-RgV0q_b81KuwzpSqhbhcB-TkTzqvQEVBtEFShYg3-gZfsOXeA23r3oHXb-xHI2c0/s1030/4230348B-6618-4EFF-98BF-9C5CE82C4EEF.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1030" data-original-width="682" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kB5pzNiJuZIkpI72JLkpHyPy3wb4CvNoIGUGDizJG_obhEk0h3uHl8kRgtZezp08JlY88wjCr59SJF0OHnBFiGtW_mc3rVXFojLrPU5MG9ZwSD8vIkSe5QW-RgV0q_b81KuwzpSqhbhcB-TkTzqvQEVBtEFShYg3-gZfsOXeA23r3oHXb-xHI2c0/s320/4230348B-6618-4EFF-98BF-9C5CE82C4EEF.jpeg" width="212" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Adding additional back seams to the current pattern would look cramped and odd. This means the side-back seam needs to be moved to under the arm to make room. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Also, I decide to add a 'V' to the back to further mimic the look of the Bruegel paintings.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWjBijfx_aiGyla5lcp7ubsuIe9ZXnmciURhfm1tSpv9kI4Enaa3x9lwPPvj0Av4vVok0hJ7uNlQa4M6_djJmvGAgzCdmnabv27pSqeGbSc19C_Pc76g19AuU0avJBltMD4931cvg9a7PpbW9LlwgMU0_bNYv7HU2IHoYYHiPsqS4mkUoU_rjHOnd5/s3315/FC116FF7-6078-4FB3-8F69-00CBEA104320.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2467" data-original-width="3315" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWjBijfx_aiGyla5lcp7ubsuIe9ZXnmciURhfm1tSpv9kI4Enaa3x9lwPPvj0Av4vVok0hJ7uNlQa4M6_djJmvGAgzCdmnabv27pSqeGbSc19C_Pc76g19AuU0avJBltMD4931cvg9a7PpbW9LlwgMU0_bNYv7HU2IHoYYHiPsqS4mkUoU_rjHOnd5/s320/FC116FF7-6078-4FB3-8F69-00CBEA104320.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Old back on the left, new 2-piece back on the right</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The final pattern is adjusted...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghLHLXmItWx2ADFVn4xGi4lwG89oRvppgDg5tin3RuNDvBurUXnS36hLx4fZvQqZJ81WCkhu9OxgX8i3Rgwxjg9geX653K0RpRnbfsT9DqWLgNMEmAXZ1gGB9xOlSPVzXZQgf1MKOnUYViDiGxuBKZ51UFtcr333bfSJbx1i1JVo9T4PggPyI6CiC-/s3154/E36970F1-397A-447C-B97F-D9675C4C2342.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2325" data-original-width="3154" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghLHLXmItWx2ADFVn4xGi4lwG89oRvppgDg5tin3RuNDvBurUXnS36hLx4fZvQqZJ81WCkhu9OxgX8i3Rgwxjg9geX653K0RpRnbfsT9DqWLgNMEmAXZ1gGB9xOlSPVzXZQgf1MKOnUYViDiGxuBKZ51UFtcr333bfSJbx1i1JVo9T4PggPyI6CiC-/s320/E36970F1-397A-447C-B97F-D9675C4C2342.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...And mocked up!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2A8Gd1OTfv4lhSCAWDPnDM1sO-hUv_FVDZMB_4u-svvi8fqAVh3GUNIzz00qZH1otj5TN1fJPnYxukZHCR2xUH-VrEU7kQGKf0_yhI0mxk3y6l9Zh72leKDrhw8Eb1lTw1luz3KSPe0zMXXGWirYVt2ldORJDlncRIeLN8OPfhs2vzOR6cb0eobF/s1877/F3174B81-4E68-44CF-A292-E9079A1B1EEE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1179" data-original-width="1877" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2A8Gd1OTfv4lhSCAWDPnDM1sO-hUv_FVDZMB_4u-svvi8fqAVh3GUNIzz00qZH1otj5TN1fJPnYxukZHCR2xUH-VrEU7kQGKf0_yhI0mxk3y6l9Zh72leKDrhw8Eb1lTw1luz3KSPe0zMXXGWirYVt2ldORJDlncRIeLN8OPfhs2vzOR6cb0eobF/s320/F3174B81-4E68-44CF-A292-E9079A1B1EEE.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The shape is pretty good, but can you spot the elephant in the room?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Yes...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I went back to boning. (For<i> EARLY PERIOD</i>! Shock! Horror! Hiss!!!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I know. But at this point I just wanted it done. I can't help myself. This 'summer' project had now been going for the better part of 5 months (and counting) and I wasn't even out of the mockup phase! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Boning is my security blanket.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">However, I do only use it along the lacing edge along with one synthetic whalebone at the side. It's still wrong...but slightly less wrong? Maybe???</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>ANYWAY</i>...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the pattern more or less working it's time to start on the foundation layers.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As usual this is made up of two layers of 10.5oz cotton hemp, pad-stitched together and with additional channels sewn in for support.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzf7PyX_YTwHQ6eRq3mHWJDoobBwV_wyKO4e1nsrzTbdW13QdC1J57vMlqhBorSZk_INtFmyWaDHHsG1GcL5yz27TWnowZpyJiACMU6_9Bp9ffX_6Bp1kQ7eaC6WpsIHRJG89n6Hk2U6VXTswOTJhsSqkBp1sZD9yoVe0Be_yqPIsCCGf_CwyogWd1/s3665/632E7C79-A7E9-44DF-8587-0349C303204A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2057" data-original-width="3665" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzf7PyX_YTwHQ6eRq3mHWJDoobBwV_wyKO4e1nsrzTbdW13QdC1J57vMlqhBorSZk_INtFmyWaDHHsG1GcL5yz27TWnowZpyJiACMU6_9Bp9ffX_6Bp1kQ7eaC6WpsIHRJG89n6Hk2U6VXTswOTJhsSqkBp1sZD9yoVe0Be_yqPIsCCGf_CwyogWd1/s320/632E7C79-A7E9-44DF-8587-0349C303204A.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now, at this point you're probably wondering where those additional back pieces are? </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Well observed. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But we'll come to that in a moment...because this is the point where the whole project starts to go off the rails.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On the verge of cutting the red wool, I stumble upon this image and can't get it out of my head.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTTJ2NLeiI5--HUe7JUR_nVU--OfV3q990uf7bVQ1nUeXJW1KKXACvkXZ0DYsXmcwJT70SW8PT4dH0enAklCiAUmSqY-jG6jqCNqavyi6e70HvlGITRDpz_DAZVPyR5GbN9OkSFuLZ39UWAKdE993ZRoE1NavdaVg5-_KYjFT22wwJ6rkVodFEWHD/s938/9E5569F7-244B-41C9-B620-79F43334A888.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="938" data-original-width="647" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTTJ2NLeiI5--HUe7JUR_nVU--OfV3q990uf7bVQ1nUeXJW1KKXACvkXZ0DYsXmcwJT70SW8PT4dH0enAklCiAUmSqY-jG6jqCNqavyi6e70HvlGITRDpz_DAZVPyR5GbN9OkSFuLZ39UWAKdE993ZRoE1NavdaVg5-_KYjFT22wwJ6rkVodFEWHD/w276-h400/9E5569F7-244B-41C9-B620-79F43334A888.jpeg" width="276" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDU1DuIiVrC5csA0GRtJJZd4BFV0z3mwjJxVeB6mI9jpy2-_Xe5HaCPfZrbFSN6dfVq1BSbxpY5exTEozaBQe55Ye0ZBlc5gwH-4nZc2ccKo8n6gKLFTGcCk_PpQrRiC7D2tQQ0oEywtMjVExcuE3gr3oGpa71pQ8njqm4fxgchqRRcNMhfgbydJjV/s1362/FDD3F538-5C42-49D5-BE0F-36E96F0191AD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1362" data-original-width="779" height="399" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDU1DuIiVrC5csA0GRtJJZd4BFV0z3mwjJxVeB6mI9jpy2-_Xe5HaCPfZrbFSN6dfVq1BSbxpY5exTEozaBQe55Ye0ZBlc5gwH-4nZc2ccKo8n6gKLFTGcCk_PpQrRiC7D2tQQ0oEywtMjVExcuE3gr3oGpa71pQ8njqm4fxgchqRRcNMhfgbydJjV/w228-h399/FDD3F538-5C42-49D5-BE0F-36E96F0191AD.jpeg" width="228" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's from a book of hours once owned by Catherine de Medici and probably dates to the first half of the 16th c. (roughly 1500-1530)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next thing I know, blue kirtles are popping up everywhere!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjheNV3bhmHIFF9LsM_E9p-rJGLeGAxjVOxGf_QxNrLiiZmWFSdTnOKoic0ZahKTQDH3VO0P__59Ls-OsCuE0T4IEd1B2k9IlwTa6WIFg_xvP8a0ITD0i2Kq0mEVfqbzdtnDnI87DJsuOie1HNZwFRFyn59HRDo88eUYPC9XYyC-E4m17ISryze51X/s906/59F1D5E1-96B8-4830-A22C-7128201EF0AF.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="722" data-original-width="906" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjheNV3bhmHIFF9LsM_E9p-rJGLeGAxjVOxGf_QxNrLiiZmWFSdTnOKoic0ZahKTQDH3VO0P__59Ls-OsCuE0T4IEd1B2k9IlwTa6WIFg_xvP8a0ITD0i2Kq0mEVfqbzdtnDnI87DJsuOie1HNZwFRFyn59HRDo88eUYPC9XYyC-E4m17ISryze51X/s320/59F1D5E1-96B8-4830-A22C-7128201EF0AF.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTUDWL1dTiuYaoQJn1O-tZDOpYRBNP4h0ob1f5rCata9IAWolEl9wSmiXDCcuTAt_KeBAN8tgIaArcydexeyaipI5zCy029iEH8Q-dxui858gxy7kH9AJsCDTiPUALTd42psaFZ1XzfUaFGxvg2kXAaWtP89FEd4ojSo1ZI6xqfIaLNl7NuVunqM0s/s600/73B08555-098A-4CC3-8589-A3E4EA4154AE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="447" data-original-width="600" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTUDWL1dTiuYaoQJn1O-tZDOpYRBNP4h0ob1f5rCata9IAWolEl9wSmiXDCcuTAt_KeBAN8tgIaArcydexeyaipI5zCy029iEH8Q-dxui858gxy7kH9AJsCDTiPUALTd42psaFZ1XzfUaFGxvg2kXAaWtP89FEd4ojSo1ZI6xqfIaLNl7NuVunqM0s/s320/73B08555-098A-4CC3-8589-A3E4EA4154AE.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOp2vQrXuEU8TcN4GGL7rJnLReiXmGa3ttXmu_xoJoAYlgiIXm7GIWA2zbdpRMu1wMwDxpAN7UsUkTAX4rj3bHA3j9G4mCmdJUKcfcUf_XR3Mc2uqGzQN3-qvJ42Vp1VYraeD8Ru9TLI8QRIgI96rvYrnGRMtVoeDbai43d3eZfprTIuFdvl2FI1gB/s585/78C0F07E-1A8A-4916-BE55-79F21BAC00F9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="460" data-original-width="585" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOp2vQrXuEU8TcN4GGL7rJnLReiXmGa3ttXmu_xoJoAYlgiIXm7GIWA2zbdpRMu1wMwDxpAN7UsUkTAX4rj3bHA3j9G4mCmdJUKcfcUf_XR3Mc2uqGzQN3-qvJ42Vp1VYraeD8Ru9TLI8QRIgI96rvYrnGRMtVoeDbai43d3eZfprTIuFdvl2FI1gB/s320/78C0F07E-1A8A-4916-BE55-79F21BAC00F9.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQChplCraDPulJ4tdRATkjiUgqymvUJqpil7SCStkkpx_TOPEeFJEKuokAYEb4kLIvAsOiQexk5ZyAUceR9_sApEaa5zm3jAnRYUL-FcyRTl-X78A-AdgZaflXDYhZelROLdTilVa6h0F5w16TVckOihGmqY7rliCo1uCMmIzNB8e2znXkBZkJ4e8e/s421/C65AA483-3A09-42BF-AB70-BB744C915C21.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="368" data-original-width="421" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQChplCraDPulJ4tdRATkjiUgqymvUJqpil7SCStkkpx_TOPEeFJEKuokAYEb4kLIvAsOiQexk5ZyAUceR9_sApEaa5zm3jAnRYUL-FcyRTl-X78A-AdgZaflXDYhZelROLdTilVa6h0F5w16TVckOihGmqY7rliCo1uCMmIzNB8e2znXkBZkJ4e8e/s320/C65AA483-3A09-42BF-AB70-BB744C915C21.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4Wj-nzRt5zzHY6PdEPWXIOu0VuzB4Y6yDl5_4B9TzX8C4M7Po2kTb2ujl50kCRn1upApWx27kPNxOtCEZLfN_QvR1mxL4q6BWJE4Hkv4eAwQNyLBd_kLe3vRu3hK30zSLzKuuTJsvFDAvbUGdA3mPtTo9Pi7j8gyOKLZobhi6rG9Q85bzgHtPKkj/s721/C383F73C-048E-48CF-B021-D14D12E90B66.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="721" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4Wj-nzRt5zzHY6PdEPWXIOu0VuzB4Y6yDl5_4B9TzX8C4M7Po2kTb2ujl50kCRn1upApWx27kPNxOtCEZLfN_QvR1mxL4q6BWJE4Hkv4eAwQNyLBd_kLe3vRu3hK30zSLzKuuTJsvFDAvbUGdA3mPtTo9Pi7j8gyOKLZobhi6rG9Q85bzgHtPKkj/s320/C383F73C-048E-48CF-B021-D14D12E90B66.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVcCgBez3jVdiRvKOVH0EPnc5BTcc17dCo0R55tGD1N2wj-qCkxbWtuajt8PT9gKYnXRRJNn03WDp4otJmD6eh7LSRE4SB5KGqm3Bl3DB_ICS2vlx6QOe9uskvrGeqvPHqmjuFGlpSgxN_voHURIrr640BFwUZBO48JNFwtWS5QB7c_gVPvAxNPHRW/s1328/CC6216DD-35B0-4090-AE11-627CD7F50216.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1268" data-original-width="1328" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVcCgBez3jVdiRvKOVH0EPnc5BTcc17dCo0R55tGD1N2wj-qCkxbWtuajt8PT9gKYnXRRJNn03WDp4otJmD6eh7LSRE4SB5KGqm3Bl3DB_ICS2vlx6QOe9uskvrGeqvPHqmjuFGlpSgxN_voHURIrr640BFwUZBO48JNFwtWS5QB7c_gVPvAxNPHRW/s320/CC6216DD-35B0-4090-AE11-627CD7F50216.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSMUK802zbLVl2jtjDx_EyqfGDV0Fo3U6thjDZOw_i2d9fAnekBbvffF_7gD40nPHjwRrm6mtVke_b4DkzqUKOqWxD4bMh73xQJ-Qo-eGBiqPKgZOLiXurunUxeP8iKCmUJWYrq2x5zirkWsxxLOlHTAPBBzcY0dgevE4NoGm3ewQKMGjsSnkhVoEX/s1521/02E695AB-7053-4234-83E4-EC9F6F7D4C5B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1521" data-original-width="1316" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSMUK802zbLVl2jtjDx_EyqfGDV0Fo3U6thjDZOw_i2d9fAnekBbvffF_7gD40nPHjwRrm6mtVke_b4DkzqUKOqWxD4bMh73xQJ-Qo-eGBiqPKgZOLiXurunUxeP8iKCmUJWYrq2x5zirkWsxxLOlHTAPBBzcY0dgevE4NoGm3ewQKMGjsSnkhVoEX/s320/02E695AB-7053-4234-83E4-EC9F6F7D4C5B.jpeg" width="277" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Maybe it's because it's the shiny new thing. Maybe it's because everyone has red kirtles...but I was suddenly gripped with the need to make this kirtle <i>BLUE</i>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">It was also at this point that I realize I'd made a slight mistake in my mockup and foundation layers. I'd made the front close edge to edge, but my inspiration from the Field of Cloth if Gold painting has gap of at least 1.5" which I wanted to honour. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Unstitching the channels in the foundation layers to fold back the front edge further and increase the gap would have been possible, but it also would have been a massive pain.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">That clinched it. I'd do a last minute pivot for this project and save the red wool for a later date.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">It certainly helped that I'd already found some beautiful blue and violet wool from Dorr Mill fabrics.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg425XtC355u93p5lLUeWoRXnvOfIL8fMgbKLWYCqD4T6XwDDIPaJ5iheyxw08hNDXn4F0eAbJit0hxRZXG0MzUh-kYiVRrUFLDdShDSkro8qxSO_pD_gddaFYbFKyDIAgiL6vz-qGLA840IgEJwAR8a2XpUz2pIk5W-CxYVN7drEMr-LdE1iIAWFOZ/s620/AD57315A-0443-48A8-BBE6-A80C93B0DE8A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="620" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg425XtC355u93p5lLUeWoRXnvOfIL8fMgbKLWYCqD4T6XwDDIPaJ5iheyxw08hNDXn4F0eAbJit0hxRZXG0MzUh-kYiVRrUFLDdShDSkro8qxSO_pD_gddaFYbFKyDIAgiL6vz-qGLA840IgEJwAR8a2XpUz2pIk5W-CxYVN7drEMr-LdE1iIAWFOZ/w200-h200/AD57315A-0443-48A8-BBE6-A80C93B0DE8A.jpeg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7J5roHLEMt6-OB7td3LkZecXmwGWUvDmqBfVXrz6mWrkp8lutM59BXlfUSSGkbrfDrIPJKf3Xp9Y0qKDXHeLoS21QJ-b8P77eSY2NyjoNoxPcVnQwFkaiJUyu_N6jIT9VfJA-k9Kpu0fb1LjmBWE1zyI_OVQyPr1EiY8FM3daxbyDeh3DDB1SIvX/s620/6CE31564-8748-408C-81CC-DECAC4EF3BD0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="620" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7J5roHLEMt6-OB7td3LkZecXmwGWUvDmqBfVXrz6mWrkp8lutM59BXlfUSSGkbrfDrIPJKf3Xp9Y0qKDXHeLoS21QJ-b8P77eSY2NyjoNoxPcVnQwFkaiJUyu_N6jIT9VfJA-k9Kpu0fb1LjmBWE1zyI_OVQyPr1EiY8FM3daxbyDeh3DDB1SIvX/w200-h200/6CE31564-8748-408C-81CC-DECAC4EF3BD0.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Okay! So back to the foundation layers...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I had wanted to keep the multiple back seams in the final look, but realized that that would get very bulky considering the weight of my foundation layers. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">So instead I decided to cut the back as a single piece for the internal layers, and then stitch the two back pieces in wool on top of that.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaRPK9RNZL8CfnfvtXaJugVUa3j-ykYgJl4HFqe0uXbB4brovDU1VomeLLR4R_KWNXjtXgoBIh11uizn7KXjZralZspsYxV37KfzVoU1BuMjLW8XHxN7x22wQhexsvH3oPiKLrsfVTrXhjSm6ynk7dLf5uWjCuY7j3v7-OtNsfgNaW48qU8EWAqHla/s4030/4C14AF8B-A9C8-4669-B185-59666D6D0846.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="4030" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaRPK9RNZL8CfnfvtXaJugVUa3j-ykYgJl4HFqe0uXbB4brovDU1VomeLLR4R_KWNXjtXgoBIh11uizn7KXjZralZspsYxV37KfzVoU1BuMjLW8XHxN7x22wQhexsvH3oPiKLrsfVTrXhjSm6ynk7dLf5uWjCuY7j3v7-OtNsfgNaW48qU8EWAqHla/s320/4C14AF8B-A9C8-4669-B185-59666D6D0846.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIuh4LMSda-jPoCbAEzGscww_3t4e5gX57HvGOyor7awbcij3aFfuWOrHXAeXIOxKvJS5eH5eTToVFMU8Ry-laS3XWU6WgRC6kyK0WwrEkOa3FjvuotO0eWa3rKxEAuuHU5l1XoJfJfFxHM4JqdNFNA_BB5IAs2OQ7yDu4_xao86U3LjG0lo77zeSt/s3576/80DBE67E-0414-430E-8F78-C79B1C1BB5F9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2556" data-original-width="3576" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIuh4LMSda-jPoCbAEzGscww_3t4e5gX57HvGOyor7awbcij3aFfuWOrHXAeXIOxKvJS5eH5eTToVFMU8Ry-laS3XWU6WgRC6kyK0WwrEkOa3FjvuotO0eWa3rKxEAuuHU5l1XoJfJfFxHM4JqdNFNA_BB5IAs2OQ7yDu4_xao86U3LjG0lo77zeSt/s320/80DBE67E-0414-430E-8F78-C79B1C1BB5F9.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Yes, the boning is horribly obvious here.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Thankfully it's a lot more subtle when worn.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgovITEH7e_Hn2WJygwLn_CReS9luAGsHDAh-kdLrYrZM1rN_vKbku9gWzpbCqB1NNcOUWVouHxJyEtadGI4ZCqN_8VSUDj8iHYFMtObh17DyHuehThLA5gejhKY1_CJsv9oL-X0flj7KEUxdnqyIrgHZiUaHEqLN1XG4vgwFHty-Z-qfXgtnRB95Zf/s3833/F2B371A6-7BF6-4F7B-B989-C440AD16CDA8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2756" data-original-width="3833" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgovITEH7e_Hn2WJygwLn_CReS9luAGsHDAh-kdLrYrZM1rN_vKbku9gWzpbCqB1NNcOUWVouHxJyEtadGI4ZCqN_8VSUDj8iHYFMtObh17DyHuehThLA5gejhKY1_CJsv9oL-X0flj7KEUxdnqyIrgHZiUaHEqLN1XG4vgwFHty-Z-qfXgtnRB95Zf/s320/F2B371A6-7BF6-4F7B-B989-C440AD16CDA8.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Yes, it's a totally theatrical cheat. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I'm not totally in love with the outline of the seam allowance that is visible with the back is pressed...but oh well, that's what I get for cheating.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(Thankfully this looks way worse pressed flat than it ultimately will on the body.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The bodice pieces are then joined together and the seam alliances stitched down.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAAgh1NcO0ZP24fwfw_fzUtnpe0kSGIh9jnUO8s1_ycRjjubYzpPuiyCZwr4Y1WiDXBHJc6qj-hgbyD1PHzKHbLCcn5Z6hI4DJ-Pm_fjKMRKDM-1wy2lOeIKgDH-S5tgNDdxh1wcjOFvwUOI6AmQBAZ1b7TNPjOqNAQ7huI23mbexyJTurBi29xHIN/s3054/5C256E82-EE88-4630-A239-2D9263152D48.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2038" data-original-width="3054" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAAgh1NcO0ZP24fwfw_fzUtnpe0kSGIh9jnUO8s1_ycRjjubYzpPuiyCZwr4Y1WiDXBHJc6qj-hgbyD1PHzKHbLCcn5Z6hI4DJ-Pm_fjKMRKDM-1wy2lOeIKgDH-S5tgNDdxh1wcjOFvwUOI6AmQBAZ1b7TNPjOqNAQ7huI23mbexyJTurBi29xHIN/s320/5C256E82-EE88-4630-A239-2D9263152D48.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-FQA4jyQfHjzNc-5_aJ8kzeikRM9g6zzhXGWG9_KTFP2rgxljHS_bPauzZl1K_jZjxhQZmgQsLjD4XwZMx-UkGYxYQ9D5o57YbKtU-37RW1WHFW4tYcf2V4dhTzteiBZVzB5bRqp_p3dgu9Yt9qzz_Iz8VJ0iB-h-XQVPraoCxRloRTr_rMct4FjO/s3398/BDF9868C-52E2-4527-853F-DE823529A7C4.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2229" data-original-width="3398" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-FQA4jyQfHjzNc-5_aJ8kzeikRM9g6zzhXGWG9_KTFP2rgxljHS_bPauzZl1K_jZjxhQZmgQsLjD4XwZMx-UkGYxYQ9D5o57YbKtU-37RW1WHFW4tYcf2V4dhTzteiBZVzB5bRqp_p3dgu9Yt9qzz_Iz8VJ0iB-h-XQVPraoCxRloRTr_rMct4FjO/s320/BDF9868C-52E2-4527-853F-DE823529A7C4.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It’s then lined in blue linen and the front edges are worked with eyelets (offset for spiral lacing)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKrbggI0x5EipkgTY2aJDRac6VMc2QygYLXK67vZUAc1Z1s_mxI1-KX1tkAdOu48Pv5K1ig4e8nXuFwMQ71eYA6kLTLxLDVIEDYGfXZxXGA8AxRaCOqc0c6vPjUGMzze9peGS-RMHjRBGqc10lnsMUQw7Zx4PzQRpeqURKAnf191KwLP3pD4acPLKz/s3276/65F7922F-1B65-4797-AE4A-0FD3DA42557E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2288" data-original-width="3276" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKrbggI0x5EipkgTY2aJDRac6VMc2QygYLXK67vZUAc1Z1s_mxI1-KX1tkAdOu48Pv5K1ig4e8nXuFwMQ71eYA6kLTLxLDVIEDYGfXZxXGA8AxRaCOqc0c6vPjUGMzze9peGS-RMHjRBGqc10lnsMUQw7Zx4PzQRpeqURKAnf191KwLP3pD4acPLKz/s320/65F7922F-1B65-4797-AE4A-0FD3DA42557E.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb_9RbL31vVa7EMdJSd9IdOM1APw1l8XyJ86_TuzZ_VPFOY5YT70TrGihsCF8PpD2T_oV_WvvBXdgP6T6E4SCB3zjE5l6ha_L30zd9dbFVu-gKwwS4cDa84aN3EBwSOW0-BDzWOz-EugSW-O4OvRParhgHBjnCnY598ORzrhXlaWki-0R7HYX-xnxI/s3995/115A5C96-BE97-4C1A-9853-3EC24CB42F69.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3995" data-original-width="2875" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb_9RbL31vVa7EMdJSd9IdOM1APw1l8XyJ86_TuzZ_VPFOY5YT70TrGihsCF8PpD2T_oV_WvvBXdgP6T6E4SCB3zjE5l6ha_L30zd9dbFVu-gKwwS4cDa84aN3EBwSOW0-BDzWOz-EugSW-O4OvRParhgHBjnCnY598ORzrhXlaWki-0R7HYX-xnxI/s320/115A5C96-BE97-4C1A-9853-3EC24CB42F69.jpeg" width="230" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Next it's time to make up the skirt.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">For this I returned to 'The Queen's Servants' and used one of the patterns from their gowns rather that the kirtle. I wanted a shaped skirt, but also one that has enough volume in the back to pleat (as seen in my inspiration image).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The required quite a lot of piecing, which I had never done in a skirt before but rather liked.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">In the end the skirt ended up being a tad too voluminous for a lower-class kirtle...but it sure is pretty! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-LzwoUIusi1U3YvBgBri07NzNlYJ1M3yZX5_lUcocCUNFX16nJYbME0_gzWd9yCdzTAGcK5CSsKHanFvulcYdqg82_IbS67dkrxqHU4IKfcPKPjmWGaZmaeczBdZDcfb-EFHEaz461P5uu74Y4-MtQXGZK2BOfqQYo7Oz7Qv9dvJE9f57TIfoCUFf/s3998/E8712224-B1C4-4F6E-9ABC-A87848BCF091.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3998" data-original-width="2439" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-LzwoUIusi1U3YvBgBri07NzNlYJ1M3yZX5_lUcocCUNFX16nJYbME0_gzWd9yCdzTAGcK5CSsKHanFvulcYdqg82_IbS67dkrxqHU4IKfcPKPjmWGaZmaeczBdZDcfb-EFHEaz461P5uu74Y4-MtQXGZK2BOfqQYo7Oz7Qv9dvJE9f57TIfoCUFf/s320/E8712224-B1C4-4F6E-9ABC-A87848BCF091.jpeg" width="195" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7FyerKx6BjQ-Xl91wmpMYQfTcAHtfezGtkrMsXB-3HKRP8-f2d5UJdu2kdjUI-jNax8_b_39N2oDSIGUgqtyBK8kzoGteNgcR7BZQiOtUN1g1zaogvTdwWnCGpeC8Us-TjPh8sN44SPEBU7tlwnEr90oJ5qboxYczFNIIoylkfgA2veJbKaU22tX/s2641/7A19E427-5B70-4995-AE21-79DCB7562EEC.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2641" data-original-width="1002" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7FyerKx6BjQ-Xl91wmpMYQfTcAHtfezGtkrMsXB-3HKRP8-f2d5UJdu2kdjUI-jNax8_b_39N2oDSIGUgqtyBK8kzoGteNgcR7BZQiOtUN1g1zaogvTdwWnCGpeC8Us-TjPh8sN44SPEBU7tlwnEr90oJ5qboxYczFNIIoylkfgA2veJbKaU22tX/s320/7A19E427-5B70-4995-AE21-79DCB7562EEC.jpeg" width="121" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The skirt is then shorted by turning under a wide band and hemmed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Finally, short sleeves are lined, finished on all sides and whip-stitched into the finished armscye. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(The sleeve pattern is adapted from the gown pattern in The Queen's Servants)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixhjCWIPs8IDfqI08tOJnJUJ0IEYfgjAiDn1ovF-H4c4L_ajQQ3PDtTKYVkdvNs3qzAH5kCF0ZAWetRpnu1dUAMxJu9j05voHm8DJvaUn62rmZTnXUwS64Yqr4p50nrdIQVSdkkTVs_gCObn0dkS3cUWQIlxjP1pHjpaYmSbesQ9Jmrkg0yTzzLy2F/s3713/430E0FF2-6724-4A1A-B737-5A5BA1E904BB.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2387" data-original-width="3713" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixhjCWIPs8IDfqI08tOJnJUJ0IEYfgjAiDn1ovF-H4c4L_ajQQ3PDtTKYVkdvNs3qzAH5kCF0ZAWetRpnu1dUAMxJu9j05voHm8DJvaUn62rmZTnXUwS64Yqr4p50nrdIQVSdkkTVs_gCObn0dkS3cUWQIlxjP1pHjpaYmSbesQ9Jmrkg0yTzzLy2F/s320/430E0FF2-6724-4A1A-B737-5A5BA1E904BB.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfeW_qTCp1Di00f3wi6a0-8aCk4Dpx_VctM9_A3vowpaht3q1vyJ9M-r4p9A0HnA5MM6ThwpwmyHSVasHrnIBC_J0T7MgS6dfC0Frx19B-YUO65UXnxdZ-4ETpoFMNVjc1ZjHmSI8uY9mmEMv2Ktqa4uEAfptlZ-8NtGxk9g_h86Khwi92FPg4Hs3-/s3863/F09EC24A-DA85-4B17-AC91-AB5AA3422B61.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3863" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfeW_qTCp1Di00f3wi6a0-8aCk4Dpx_VctM9_A3vowpaht3q1vyJ9M-r4p9A0HnA5MM6ThwpwmyHSVasHrnIBC_J0T7MgS6dfC0Frx19B-YUO65UXnxdZ-4ETpoFMNVjc1ZjHmSI8uY9mmEMv2Ktqa4uEAfptlZ-8NtGxk9g_h86Khwi92FPg4Hs3-/s320/F09EC24A-DA85-4B17-AC91-AB5AA3422B61.jpeg" width="250" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Kirtle done!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pCOxgHnPzvNWJbkprMddqsesBgX8TIZ3BrcVF_E-GNfn7o9i4BFVT422zkKSB11tDCiXPCh0g54Tzfg0EwI_f7fgM34jo3D7-41orpXBKgn5fg2v0idUARAkpNrixflGWq7O94zMVBK4MaucnVh-Li7vi4qw4Uoo5zbBWUcKi9HivvPBnvSEdgcB/s5557/BK_01A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pCOxgHnPzvNWJbkprMddqsesBgX8TIZ3BrcVF_E-GNfn7o9i4BFVT422zkKSB11tDCiXPCh0g54Tzfg0EwI_f7fgM34jo3D7-41orpXBKgn5fg2v0idUARAkpNrixflGWq7O94zMVBK4MaucnVh-Li7vi4qw4Uoo5zbBWUcKi9HivvPBnvSEdgcB/w205-h320/BK_01A.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXf4IZGF2HNeaMRH1YynX6ZK6R05gqF0Oc1ZfbPHcHwBXbxhwy0hCA9rfnMuEnWSgwhBQd8aFTx0v0uoMiOcx_c3AhjKPH3Rhetsa-kGd2C8c6urkWd6zKbfGuaMdswH3A7Ny5yotVJ3KOFnwHYgLVH9JoZgxc4Z2-oyagRdmLil6uCHJMSw0SMT8U/s5557/BK_02A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXf4IZGF2HNeaMRH1YynX6ZK6R05gqF0Oc1ZfbPHcHwBXbxhwy0hCA9rfnMuEnWSgwhBQd8aFTx0v0uoMiOcx_c3AhjKPH3Rhetsa-kGd2C8c6urkWd6zKbfGuaMdswH3A7Ny5yotVJ3KOFnwHYgLVH9JoZgxc4Z2-oyagRdmLil6uCHJMSw0SMT8U/w205-h320/BK_02A.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4x14pW8VfXhismzgyLnouRM4YFhkiNrA8cy-hN5TOwishPxP8D8ZY6p0chfI14VCV_YXP3mbnavRLsv5g1gfBriNhxLdVeW0bsLDMQa2r-cFaxgJ7V1kHHOkikWRt1EsDqtxDKnVRbwbyrNXjl4deW44d8vsnS7EPbx1LBiJ-M-4HPHN8C48zWXC/s5557/BK_03A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4x14pW8VfXhismzgyLnouRM4YFhkiNrA8cy-hN5TOwishPxP8D8ZY6p0chfI14VCV_YXP3mbnavRLsv5g1gfBriNhxLdVeW0bsLDMQa2r-cFaxgJ7V1kHHOkikWRt1EsDqtxDKnVRbwbyrNXjl4deW44d8vsnS7EPbx1LBiJ-M-4HPHN8C48zWXC/w205-h320/BK_03A.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcytz8mF0KxWHLiWRBjHoOg3BAOBN5fY8igmgCTiZ4wnTv74YAW_jashDFcpIyT4BdtjtZ1vm9cd6aFB4uP6dx3Uu5rMgOtvvowWeRnmsejEd3upqSrGO-DwuEQqZ-vUmIJqiHWuNvolv6tkLF2Zasm1mmLRlZVb3Pdt9Fy64_N1SgYiKuWusAJt1M/s5557/BK_04A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcytz8mF0KxWHLiWRBjHoOg3BAOBN5fY8igmgCTiZ4wnTv74YAW_jashDFcpIyT4BdtjtZ1vm9cd6aFB4uP6dx3Uu5rMgOtvvowWeRnmsejEd3upqSrGO-DwuEQqZ-vUmIJqiHWuNvolv6tkLF2Zasm1mmLRlZVb3Pdt9Fy64_N1SgYiKuWusAJt1M/w205-h320/BK_04A.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5YWRRVvOulJzApV7vJxFv8pydtecncHuZmHw9cd7SLKiiHHQloPovjzm_Q4DjLj8iDKDH7-q2atFRRvjPlsQWHM6HlaWiUZaZMW4mSI8650eCJo2h5pxutiCm4KycPs-4Vbx2Om1UIdoccoV7_Z-RMsayySbkxnEWFwOWD-G-hBqlCUBJgtLVFxHt/s5557/BK_15A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5YWRRVvOulJzApV7vJxFv8pydtecncHuZmHw9cd7SLKiiHHQloPovjzm_Q4DjLj8iDKDH7-q2atFRRvjPlsQWHM6HlaWiUZaZMW4mSI8650eCJo2h5pxutiCm4KycPs-4Vbx2Om1UIdoccoV7_Z-RMsayySbkxnEWFwOWD-G-hBqlCUBJgtLVFxHt/w205-h320/BK_15A.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDEbaIC9NZsIJDOE4J83Y2I0vJYPpUjfD-cUMeEKRdtgZbcaQh9wDUPFH0Tnlnkia5JE0oWfva0F-Dxj8EZCZpUNpTQAo_CkfykmtB-31lBlRPm9ELyR3UinqywVqa9UsFuxFHpx2G8kiK0rRu0r17z561zJ7f8hYktqfe_qU1HY3hBvWbvHNT1jPD/s5557/BK_05A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5557" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDEbaIC9NZsIJDOE4J83Y2I0vJYPpUjfD-cUMeEKRdtgZbcaQh9wDUPFH0Tnlnkia5JE0oWfva0F-Dxj8EZCZpUNpTQAo_CkfykmtB-31lBlRPm9ELyR3UinqywVqa9UsFuxFHpx2G8kiK0rRu0r17z561zJ7f8hYktqfe_qU1HY3hBvWbvHNT1jPD/w205-h320/BK_05A.jpg" width="205" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Next it's time for the accessories!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">For the linen head wrap I used the white trapezoidal veil I recently finished for my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/dutch-split-tailed-coif.html">linen veil experiment</a>. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQNtyqdV5aCvYXLz-QHXCTjCLC-fy1bhO5EvraFXSs72Uwm1UUjA2oQKedu8l9IvCW-MIFpOtA52rZgGZ3IOoHNx9Mb4zPgTdteYnIUNzGcocCs_2frVFoMU8Sjy-3iFwB3klyy2pAd1LpW7bub2O5MxvPkZZn8rcaYWmJ3YNIqgqLkl4Jmks1fbF/s2684/Cap_15.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQNtyqdV5aCvYXLz-QHXCTjCLC-fy1bhO5EvraFXSs72Uwm1UUjA2oQKedu8l9IvCW-MIFpOtA52rZgGZ3IOoHNx9Mb4zPgTdteYnIUNzGcocCs_2frVFoMU8Sjy-3iFwB3klyy2pAd1LpW7bub2O5MxvPkZZn8rcaYWmJ3YNIqgqLkl4Jmks1fbF/w160-h200/Cap_15.jpg" width="160" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAittX4unloe5unB711nCs4j2fwCvt0P_ay9Ma1nPTRnAOOK10KaqF9rFcXhocPsxIXsT4OAvdQ8PAZmHA3VeyHY_cZX0H5MgopI8zr7ojzCrVWS1WNYN6qS6saQcxXsm3_-n8qNsJS1LwjoVcwd3ZRyKJ-lwD6-DTvmxJO_vECbPD4-uZl-zdw_M4/s2684/Cap_14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAittX4unloe5unB711nCs4j2fwCvt0P_ay9Ma1nPTRnAOOK10KaqF9rFcXhocPsxIXsT4OAvdQ8PAZmHA3VeyHY_cZX0H5MgopI8zr7ojzCrVWS1WNYN6qS6saQcxXsm3_-n8qNsJS1LwjoVcwd3ZRyKJ-lwD6-DTvmxJO_vECbPD4-uZl-zdw_M4/w160-h200/Cap_14.jpg" width="160" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbTv_2b-w8x5spUtAumY_xDjFAWCXNHrSM0_5zhhFcztBYiTVyMeiDz90ai7ca2JZ8G8E215Tb5GlLMg1ruIm1cVMgeFBfutoYbd3-j19p8JOnuVRJuFa4J_XQPGy0V_lqtoD9iFlLeFJRd4kUboQM02xI13ezSdLGl8yDlyijID9mU4bNd3ibUqMz/s2684/Cap_17.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbTv_2b-w8x5spUtAumY_xDjFAWCXNHrSM0_5zhhFcztBYiTVyMeiDz90ai7ca2JZ8G8E215Tb5GlLMg1ruIm1cVMgeFBfutoYbd3-j19p8JOnuVRJuFa4J_XQPGy0V_lqtoD9iFlLeFJRd4kUboQM02xI13ezSdLGl8yDlyijID9mU4bNd3ibUqMz/w160-h200/Cap_17.jpg" width="160" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh72eM30lqqv1RdMn0wSg-auJiDXivhdi_sIMcIYPIIFxawmhGaLzWiHb8PeKAet8UZHeU3w3THPO2SA0Eiu7trHNdCeSm7RHNKaijFWeJ_u-lNHrB53X0oQ50Hs7mhCOv9yFg5vCM496ACue_JywWk9eH0LKjVYJgjzMZNkImceSdNzo7cb_sjT87Z/s3813/8892318C-BD90-4603-90A9-42E0826240D0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2629" data-original-width="3813" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh72eM30lqqv1RdMn0wSg-auJiDXivhdi_sIMcIYPIIFxawmhGaLzWiHb8PeKAet8UZHeU3w3THPO2SA0Eiu7trHNdCeSm7RHNKaijFWeJ_u-lNHrB53X0oQ50Hs7mhCOv9yFg5vCM496ACue_JywWk9eH0LKjVYJgjzMZNkImceSdNzo7cb_sjT87Z/w400-h276/8892318C-BD90-4603-90A9-42E0826240D0.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO1a8gS0cmvINEZEzSiyuC8yLPSmsWiktxBZa6TAXsV0EEY4YQSdsdgk_yrNTdbWvnHAj3WpnTITxXYy6ThrbQ-GtHNCbLmpKa14I0DAgOyhHgMDomOXlyq5g43VO3gfYTP3akfwQJNUXctDw7bvb5kZCZv-C7cnkFfdQ-hjaOrq8LhgNHaKGvwFyT/s5247/Trap-pattern%20copy1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2546" data-original-width="5247" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO1a8gS0cmvINEZEzSiyuC8yLPSmsWiktxBZa6TAXsV0EEY4YQSdsdgk_yrNTdbWvnHAj3WpnTITxXYy6ThrbQ-GtHNCbLmpKa14I0DAgOyhHgMDomOXlyq5g43VO3gfYTP3akfwQJNUXctDw7bvb5kZCZv-C7cnkFfdQ-hjaOrq8LhgNHaKGvwFyT/w400-h194/Trap-pattern%20copy1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Then I need a new apron. I already have plenty of white aprons of various widths and lengths, but all are gathered at the waist. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">So I quickly whip up and un-gathered apron. It's just a large rectangle, approximately 26.6x37", hemmed on all sides and whipstitched to a matching waist band along the top edge (leaving the sides free).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNsw65Pd5eQu0MwI3ElHGnKl7MT9R4NZyU44CO3TG2G5U3ba7cNXqPsOOaKGKNNbZzNW70Va-So9vap7fkN76fUhzDdHzAsZV6JWzg03o46OZNeOyL3y5BeidthP0RVzYCq_ocQpsoh_mDIjIlTYtxNVsqJNAdNvCeD1BrzeBYDFRhwEV2QpwAeNGy/s3871/0BD58FF7-7887-4D97-993D-82E38950B558.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2391" data-original-width="3871" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNsw65Pd5eQu0MwI3ElHGnKl7MT9R4NZyU44CO3TG2G5U3ba7cNXqPsOOaKGKNNbZzNW70Va-So9vap7fkN76fUhzDdHzAsZV6JWzg03o46OZNeOyL3y5BeidthP0RVzYCq_ocQpsoh_mDIjIlTYtxNVsqJNAdNvCeD1BrzeBYDFRhwEV2QpwAeNGy/s320/0BD58FF7-7887-4D97-993D-82E38950B558.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNbv3OJ4le1t_uzNKIjOIBjGNINFPa72fz0piSjhUnq7M9zG1ohGawdH30UahGAvjoF8oXBEfvi8p8ejfD5Rh-XMGjkHzqUaRl98w-wWHKJi5fT0geF0QBscHoNGmpUUnqFS1Y9158jpGc0w03wovcYhC8995s3aMa2pVO7nabnjK1sJmjLECPmXVg/s3023/4A73973E-18A9-46B2-96AC-6044DE8332DD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2983" data-original-width="3023" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNbv3OJ4le1t_uzNKIjOIBjGNINFPa72fz0piSjhUnq7M9zG1ohGawdH30UahGAvjoF8oXBEfvi8p8ejfD5Rh-XMGjkHzqUaRl98w-wWHKJi5fT0geF0QBscHoNGmpUUnqFS1Y9158jpGc0w03wovcYhC8995s3aMa2pVO7nabnjK1sJmjLECPmXVg/s320/4A73973E-18A9-46B2-96AC-6044DE8332DD.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Next, the wool sleeves.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The pattern is basically a simple wool tube, tapered to the wrists.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGmqpr1VhlNcgB0KImPWDvQWTeUb1cNhL9__LxCDwMVih7hYeXTeKu_WnI9_KH-6HSlioIuDqAwbfE5d5mlSGROeMP73B10DX0z9KkG1qcjc_SHm9CZD9P9_LH6zk4vV2678w-nPnU6KLiRKpkQ8JBt_jJt6VxmVaZGb9VzAm5fX1ymhCeUek-JOVJ/s2819/3217CBF3-CCA3-4534-BA7A-84A7475AA7DD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2819" data-original-width="2465" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGmqpr1VhlNcgB0KImPWDvQWTeUb1cNhL9__LxCDwMVih7hYeXTeKu_WnI9_KH-6HSlioIuDqAwbfE5d5mlSGROeMP73B10DX0z9KkG1qcjc_SHm9CZD9P9_LH6zk4vV2678w-nPnU6KLiRKpkQ8JBt_jJt6VxmVaZGb9VzAm5fX1ymhCeUek-JOVJ/s320/3217CBF3-CCA3-4534-BA7A-84A7475AA7DD.jpeg" width="280" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The sleeves a made of wool and lined in linen.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMSt1qAQFL2RjR_1wars2paUH5siGWqoAjGazWX-8HHT67AcDkfCJSJ4R72JwsSZFAusDUni66xXW3ehkXbmOuGqOFyvmuHCZdgPkQhCQCx3frzL8JjQ3nYcrkQAM38MJTd0TG2RZUY6TjMuK32RAZEHRo9bQN90XDh_33a_42Rz7lM4NqpGyKybd6/s3665/B4996693-E353-412E-B136-F2E9BF70B426.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2853" data-original-width="3665" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMSt1qAQFL2RjR_1wars2paUH5siGWqoAjGazWX-8HHT67AcDkfCJSJ4R72JwsSZFAusDUni66xXW3ehkXbmOuGqOFyvmuHCZdgPkQhCQCx3frzL8JjQ3nYcrkQAM38MJTd0TG2RZUY6TjMuK32RAZEHRo9bQN90XDh_33a_42Rz7lM4NqpGyKybd6/s320/B4996693-E353-412E-B136-F2E9BF70B426.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Bur then at the last minute I decided the purple was a little too warm (based on the inspiration image), so I swapped it out for a more thistle shade.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpSRVN87w2r9dPiL52k69E06PcB-zd0giPp2Q8PwQ3r8_yyFW7tJkr6-lNLZb4K80sTezway0LU0Wn1r7oDDQzNwNc8WtsK3XYWT6as758r_-gLnE5frZ2oa_RCCaUjSGPchJt5MBSog-TntsOUDoy7M6EgnxxpKOQhkcqvY7jO0aC5mOFkF0YVcLz/s296/4FA5101F-7DBE-4AA3-88EE-3C7078003340.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="296" data-original-width="296" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpSRVN87w2r9dPiL52k69E06PcB-zd0giPp2Q8PwQ3r8_yyFW7tJkr6-lNLZb4K80sTezway0LU0Wn1r7oDDQzNwNc8WtsK3XYWT6as758r_-gLnE5frZ2oa_RCCaUjSGPchJt5MBSog-TntsOUDoy7M6EgnxxpKOQhkcqvY7jO0aC5mOFkF0YVcLz/s1600/4FA5101F-7DBE-4AA3-88EE-3C7078003340.jpeg" width="296" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV6EvCywvB_ObM_nLX5_Ni81a3EAcqV9ssh-bk9NY-3rXpK2qfSWvsOu0glennaxhRewR86PnS7XayngdBc0y-KMhO1iilFD3TT9s8y7xA9ejnqqqJRrkP5Lx106dH6hSpGpHpWmBsHYbWQZVRgpqBYz8RSldcwP6UGWbJ_ZjW241sGSdgHRBvJx1U/s2574/C6A28728-8486-4548-8283-06CF47704BB1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2540" data-original-width="2574" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV6EvCywvB_ObM_nLX5_Ni81a3EAcqV9ssh-bk9NY-3rXpK2qfSWvsOu0glennaxhRewR86PnS7XayngdBc0y-KMhO1iilFD3TT9s8y7xA9ejnqqqJRrkP5Lx106dH6hSpGpHpWmBsHYbWQZVRgpqBYz8RSldcwP6UGWbJ_ZjW241sGSdgHRBvJx1U/s320/C6A28728-8486-4548-8283-06CF47704BB1.jpeg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6eyXYC2xjkk6ZfSREU-N9rrFj1g3TvLJQ0XnkfNXdPMIF8of4nyK21YIfu2ddM-qwrDmF5ebkdr8to212RdpXn1sfCEwjaI4turekLlSZ_8qot8JmrCKemvWI1I-Z6y76hIEfrSES3zuXKBHMa6_jBrwVKDp5SSPrR5W7QmcmEOo8V4ZyClIKUCEu/s3451/AB5DEECF-3C5D-4A9B-A115-B435A3463079.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3451" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6eyXYC2xjkk6ZfSREU-N9rrFj1g3TvLJQ0XnkfNXdPMIF8of4nyK21YIfu2ddM-qwrDmF5ebkdr8to212RdpXn1sfCEwjaI4turekLlSZ_8qot8JmrCKemvWI1I-Z6y76hIEfrSES3zuXKBHMa6_jBrwVKDp5SSPrR5W7QmcmEOo8V4ZyClIKUCEu/s320/AB5DEECF-3C5D-4A9B-A115-B435A3463079.jpeg" width="280" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Lastly, the shoulder linen.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This ends up being tricker than I thought. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Originally I figured it was just a square cloth folded into a triangle and worn around the shoulders (sort of like a later fichu) but had a difficult time finding any other examples of that style this early...though it's a very common look into the next century.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There are lots of linen squares worn around the shoulders, but not triangles.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRLqZ-WzcJcyJ8wUnSdrc7ri36eLo4ki0h88S7tQwW541S_CNgdW8eZLvW6_aVf8AsQsslXJlpLCENg5tYEFekk1hx-MfrI7EHFmsUtIlwcQ3SZ17-xR8jDCP8k4Rri0SevQjzVcsoIhcYDol3qYLZt4AvG_33usoZj4TZ56cC1AOvSaoafMy9khMO/s719/404C5D9D-F1A2-4FDE-9913-5318319D4FF8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="691" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRLqZ-WzcJcyJ8wUnSdrc7ri36eLo4ki0h88S7tQwW541S_CNgdW8eZLvW6_aVf8AsQsslXJlpLCENg5tYEFekk1hx-MfrI7EHFmsUtIlwcQ3SZ17-xR8jDCP8k4Rri0SevQjzVcsoIhcYDol3qYLZt4AvG_33usoZj4TZ56cC1AOvSaoafMy9khMO/s320/404C5D9D-F1A2-4FDE-9913-5318319D4FF8.jpeg" width="308" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtAIhN3NexLak1Jz-092R_w0mSb_VpWTfFIFBa4YuosthXo7d6Z1hYcFJIhNy2gClq0G3LA3Qg8FJgsh3aE6gviibAgvvYyi2pcQLBTZ3mUfkrM3qL9Lk9b4PzllvkmHm21RY6xxS2Aqsa4hkiufa4IWlnV9ritACuUwsk3qAb_U93GtKi7zLXu3yn/s1280/1D18F8DB-3B93-44B2-A368-8CFE452534E8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="993" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtAIhN3NexLak1Jz-092R_w0mSb_VpWTfFIFBa4YuosthXo7d6Z1hYcFJIhNy2gClq0G3LA3Qg8FJgsh3aE6gviibAgvvYyi2pcQLBTZ3mUfkrM3qL9Lk9b4PzllvkmHm21RY6xxS2Aqsa4hkiufa4IWlnV9ritACuUwsk3qAb_U93GtKi7zLXu3yn/s320/1D18F8DB-3B93-44B2-A368-8CFE452534E8.jpeg" width="248" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Conversely, there are a lots of pictorial evidence of pointed black partlets, but not white ones...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGZdW_FdnDPtH1RRnmhytbnVZs5cSSb718r91IPvZGSgDH-QCSyy0V1kIy6dInJRMfi3SqwMa9wDipOT1OvZTfotEskG3XQT3-tgFS3yx01fxzrpOgQC5bI_Onup7I8YgHORuJsCq0YVglzg7izOVhzDimvcQMX8Km4iTpojv3K4TsJ3bQCiVJq7i/s1121/434D27AE-FC4D-41F9-9E2C-D94F5C2CD6F6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1121" data-original-width="823" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGZdW_FdnDPtH1RRnmhytbnVZs5cSSb718r91IPvZGSgDH-QCSyy0V1kIy6dInJRMfi3SqwMa9wDipOT1OvZTfotEskG3XQT3-tgFS3yx01fxzrpOgQC5bI_Onup7I8YgHORuJsCq0YVglzg7izOVhzDimvcQMX8Km4iTpojv3K4TsJ3bQCiVJq7i/s320/434D27AE-FC4D-41F9-9E2C-D94F5C2CD6F6.jpeg" width="235" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxgtawzzK5baisL0cjpdCjtPZhGAlPqVc6PHPDCkVaG9WeYMJ3auhvx0_YzwfJt5xCjdnDmZeNRwsP2CcJo14ezr22EjGvG-lisJOUG6WTz_-Nbj9nVro8ynRmaoYb1OlrSPEfOl5MIdkk_4-RUrQMGw3wOHNBuWN_likJ6ramVbw9MkUuekH2S80/s708/49EB16A2-DD91-4B3B-AAE2-632025805D2A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="549" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxgtawzzK5baisL0cjpdCjtPZhGAlPqVc6PHPDCkVaG9WeYMJ3auhvx0_YzwfJt5xCjdnDmZeNRwsP2CcJo14ezr22EjGvG-lisJOUG6WTz_-Nbj9nVro8ynRmaoYb1OlrSPEfOl5MIdkk_4-RUrQMGw3wOHNBuWN_likJ6ramVbw9MkUuekH2S80/s320/49EB16A2-DD91-4B3B-AAE2-632025805D2A.jpeg" width="248" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUPcQi5hcmhp6qs4BF6jRvHrkIRFKY6VcAWUsGM7mMlZ0i-Gqt9LGPDXlEbzxkdYpb3a7725eSkO9-klTX9NXlo5ctchUyWyux5762geurJYi7g7O6vJi7HlOF75bZR-DDX0zyn29hhPsQBnYmxTRcqU_olJvEzBAGwwLJdugolKuqKu1UJVExJvnL/s556/493F63FC-C54B-493C-B290-3F1E24D46153.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="556" data-original-width="407" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUPcQi5hcmhp6qs4BF6jRvHrkIRFKY6VcAWUsGM7mMlZ0i-Gqt9LGPDXlEbzxkdYpb3a7725eSkO9-klTX9NXlo5ctchUyWyux5762geurJYi7g7O6vJi7HlOF75bZR-DDX0zyn29hhPsQBnYmxTRcqU_olJvEzBAGwwLJdugolKuqKu1UJVExJvnL/s320/493F63FC-C54B-493C-B290-3F1E24D46153.jpeg" width="234" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...or, <i>again</i>, at least not this early. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I can find plenty of later, Italian examples but (so far) nothing for Northern Europe at this time.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_sntxEwWXHtOsT4KhHh0b_4IziRCof7uNoSPbiVit534zAN8h51O7veJGIdOmaM9HvaADveCqzT2yYzcqBVCYtCbtThljboCIIB88qFPItoH4iTcliQHKYCCZH9yKuYwEpk5NO7kzmR2VW2kZC_mzezFNbmXVmUp5pwQoaBvkfGvLgqIKYbbhMr0e/s1200/E3D82290-13B5-4E22-A1E1-4A9BA627FBAE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="914" data-original-width="1200" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_sntxEwWXHtOsT4KhHh0b_4IziRCof7uNoSPbiVit534zAN8h51O7veJGIdOmaM9HvaADveCqzT2yYzcqBVCYtCbtThljboCIIB88qFPItoH4iTcliQHKYCCZH9yKuYwEpk5NO7kzmR2VW2kZC_mzezFNbmXVmUp5pwQoaBvkfGvLgqIKYbbhMr0e/s320/E3D82290-13B5-4E22-A1E1-4A9BA627FBAE.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOnVDgBqLPVqszdFu_eYiFUWdDGJu12hALMONPEE2WJTtWCXKLLjspN1A69cRyq55jPrcr-zk8su7BxlrQZNh-Tt1V0v1U9QuM6a40Pt80nYulfzq_azROW01yy11C--Vj-dLzD7EduoYHyEjcgWYjX5tJn7Bv6TL8Pkfqwvm5XZv6JAlKW9_2L7Oc/s544/9F4B4139-C9E8-4B6A-99C5-250ED3917254.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="544" data-original-width="541" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOnVDgBqLPVqszdFu_eYiFUWdDGJu12hALMONPEE2WJTtWCXKLLjspN1A69cRyq55jPrcr-zk8su7BxlrQZNh-Tt1V0v1U9QuM6a40Pt80nYulfzq_azROW01yy11C--Vj-dLzD7EduoYHyEjcgWYjX5tJn7Bv6TL8Pkfqwvm5XZv6JAlKW9_2L7Oc/s320/9F4B4139-C9E8-4B6A-99C5-250ED3917254.jpeg" width="318" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And of course there is always the possibility that this is just a very low cut, back, as some images seem to suggest.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRgStZgpjvQdOuIRgL1dA5DLa2RISsKCyg6zu-B4rzjM7YN-P6Dr13a6i9nH8vqhd3rrYxMNdLnoby-fU2qKsjyHlNCeGMwHLbAgh7QkB99knU8j4OoDtjRVypl_p2v2DES8DxOss3TNKUWpPZDW-BiYFum38uk_P-5J0_vvWctGGsk33s93kAt89a/s1109/84E6E8DD-0527-4B8F-BFD6-74F6D3115CFC.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1107" data-original-width="1109" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRgStZgpjvQdOuIRgL1dA5DLa2RISsKCyg6zu-B4rzjM7YN-P6Dr13a6i9nH8vqhd3rrYxMNdLnoby-fU2qKsjyHlNCeGMwHLbAgh7QkB99knU8j4OoDtjRVypl_p2v2DES8DxOss3TNKUWpPZDW-BiYFum38uk_P-5J0_vvWctGGsk33s93kAt89a/w306-h305/84E6E8DD-0527-4B8F-BFD6-74F6D3115CFC.jpeg" width="306" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2N1kKmKvTJNsTWPjaF0GG2o8s2p1J8PjFcedJOiGN1fqwoy8YTYArjZkiFBsb4G96sjMkfZo5vOp1RjzSztqt01o-X_MivB60TRfBZRtIGkrbW-_TlN5Falv8xfSNKE0DgJf-3biHO7mOEOBApIkZDsvrP07GUMVa5Q3xGFv651XgoIZ8c5hS3pJd/s378/3D451F1E-44BF-4B38-A531-77D805E59434.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="378" data-original-width="314" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2N1kKmKvTJNsTWPjaF0GG2o8s2p1J8PjFcedJOiGN1fqwoy8YTYArjZkiFBsb4G96sjMkfZo5vOp1RjzSztqt01o-X_MivB60TRfBZRtIGkrbW-_TlN5Falv8xfSNKE0DgJf-3biHO7mOEOBApIkZDsvrP07GUMVa5Q3xGFv651XgoIZ8c5hS3pJd/w254-h306/3D451F1E-44BF-4B38-A531-77D805E59434.jpeg" width="254" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But the (albeit <i>vague</i>) gathers and folds around the neck make make think that's not the case. This also suggests something wrapped around the shoulders that doesn't have a rounded/cut to fit neck.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcncPFPXu4Fbpfo-fNL_tEQKjUleb_I0wSUiUcWP1oa4Zw_VIyjFjNZxzfD7GbkUBrBWxCAzqCWKxqEoL3JPfvlO8LNjs2NDyoCBTkvVD1_KVGL1mxTZGxYE_z03u4sxg5hCTg2C1hHr0LL2CpFBEuMBaCFIIG8uE7bnRPWV3oWjz6BSVudB_dKBn/s297/983B500C-848E-4E7F-8973-81D174AC872B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="283" data-original-width="297" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcncPFPXu4Fbpfo-fNL_tEQKjUleb_I0wSUiUcWP1oa4Zw_VIyjFjNZxzfD7GbkUBrBWxCAzqCWKxqEoL3JPfvlO8LNjs2NDyoCBTkvVD1_KVGL1mxTZGxYE_z03u4sxg5hCTg2C1hHr0LL2CpFBEuMBaCFIIG8uE7bnRPWV3oWjz6BSVudB_dKBn/s1600/983B500C-848E-4E7F-8973-81D174AC872B.jpeg" width="297" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There are examples of white partlets with similar folds, but annoyingly the back is not visible.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqlb1l0yz4qgj7NotbWDTlm2FG3RqehL2QHZxbIiK9h_-3UN9gPoFDiu2v3qOgAezaM4taRM75iUklwiJ4qHG32ZsPWuvyx_EI8hh6Ct-2UoqzYN_r8TMp7LUGpIDX9_VIJ9UkeIUIzs-YUHN3UqGBLSCRGGBG4e5wK0tfPdVf9xvqXMmsBkmiOhmq/s299/42475680-8FC1-49DD-A03F-E4797639005A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="299" data-original-width="299" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqlb1l0yz4qgj7NotbWDTlm2FG3RqehL2QHZxbIiK9h_-3UN9gPoFDiu2v3qOgAezaM4taRM75iUklwiJ4qHG32ZsPWuvyx_EI8hh6Ct-2UoqzYN_r8TMp7LUGpIDX9_VIJ9UkeIUIzs-YUHN3UqGBLSCRGGBG4e5wK0tfPdVf9xvqXMmsBkmiOhmq/s1600/42475680-8FC1-49DD-A03F-E4797639005A.jpeg" width="299" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The only thing that comes close is this image, "Danse des Paysans", by Nicolas Baullery (1560-1630), which appears to be be mid-16th c. but (as is evidenced by his dates) is a later pastiche in the same style as Bruegel.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHxeuMQ3nNsN3vrW2vMHpLxwZGyp_DIGCPu6x5a3FrtzbzpT9AAdUhTapEhhqNvx3cu4OBW71qLWOESDPV0YOWVtGdfIMRkUhVKlXE8MmV2jVJ9zhrXnogVq6JPwJzjlz8IQnKk6v5yrVq0wixIySgjSIa9iPktEelM6AWFIUN2RW3iFHk6dD4D22/s2300/8F05B175-ABF9-4160-B800-21873DAEED84.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1676" data-original-width="2300" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHxeuMQ3nNsN3vrW2vMHpLxwZGyp_DIGCPu6x5a3FrtzbzpT9AAdUhTapEhhqNvx3cu4OBW71qLWOESDPV0YOWVtGdfIMRkUhVKlXE8MmV2jVJ9zhrXnogVq6JPwJzjlz8IQnKk6v5yrVq0wixIySgjSIa9iPktEelM6AWFIUN2RW3iFHk6dD4D22/s320/8F05B175-ABF9-4160-B800-21873DAEED84.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's not as early as I would like, but it does at least purport to represent an earlier style and seems to show a triangular shoulder linen. It's sheer enough to see that it is being worn OVER a white linen, square partlet, which also suggests it is cut to shape and is not a folded square.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwl8J7ad-N0Z3NzM7DoToYNPmwuYJuP-yUmy_WXzEnHwSBDJUUL-_FAD6toMcXUINTD71uY7CLl0JkN_X-aBRLOn4QdDqn3DfbEp1UMxM6-j9N_ocM3_bJ2X-WSgufjMYFpaMcBBaY5K0Asrdh-IgGEKSy5sBHUSq15829jBqITbj33XfQWXryRHiH/s1270/9E90574E-BC3C-469D-B34F-15761A06F911.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1270" data-original-width="929" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwl8J7ad-N0Z3NzM7DoToYNPmwuYJuP-yUmy_WXzEnHwSBDJUUL-_FAD6toMcXUINTD71uY7CLl0JkN_X-aBRLOn4QdDqn3DfbEp1UMxM6-j9N_ocM3_bJ2X-WSgufjMYFpaMcBBaY5K0Asrdh-IgGEKSy5sBHUSq15829jBqITbj33XfQWXryRHiH/s320/9E90574E-BC3C-469D-B34F-15761A06F911.jpeg" width="234" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JZVuJRyY299HhYkxyol7FIPTCTZRkYT_oVVc7dcCSBVep7L7UPOLyrf21QJ58jBPsPFDcRVCh9FgmpveV7PzHEzBcE5h-unbY_Lbxc_VCUcJERiI9dklwGWD-DTaFgqJLlZvEbidQtmTDHlhm3IcBz_IHns35RXhtpR96LjyEFQiDzu-dvYni51d/s1962/D04AFEF2-E914-4D44-88FB-B3EF36E34F6A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1962" data-original-width="1373" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JZVuJRyY299HhYkxyol7FIPTCTZRkYT_oVVc7dcCSBVep7L7UPOLyrf21QJ58jBPsPFDcRVCh9FgmpveV7PzHEzBcE5h-unbY_Lbxc_VCUcJERiI9dklwGWD-DTaFgqJLlZvEbidQtmTDHlhm3IcBz_IHns35RXhtpR96LjyEFQiDzu-dvYni51d/s320/D04AFEF2-E914-4D44-88FB-B3EF36E34F6A.jpeg" width="224" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On the other hand, this look (with a sort of tassel or something hanging off the point) does definitely seems to be a later style, though these mostly appear to be folded squares.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7V2s7jcIHJty9GtAVDNOw5jyh6e3-gOWM5XQNArxDRs1eItw_U4vZ9DbhYO3nWzl92B3GzA5h47WmldhjS0USMIQtuPZmF_2mJNI2NPLLW1fCfn3EsTurG_c5QafDzmd4xzlBDNJjXA08TYR-9BZkN5ir7xUcTHyNBCjQqaDK1ON3eJPdd4iR09Cs/s663/EC62C2D2-AE7F-4EBA-9BB1-FCB9188DCBBC.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="663" data-original-width="583" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7V2s7jcIHJty9GtAVDNOw5jyh6e3-gOWM5XQNArxDRs1eItw_U4vZ9DbhYO3nWzl92B3GzA5h47WmldhjS0USMIQtuPZmF_2mJNI2NPLLW1fCfn3EsTurG_c5QafDzmd4xzlBDNJjXA08TYR-9BZkN5ir7xUcTHyNBCjQqaDK1ON3eJPdd4iR09Cs/s320/EC62C2D2-AE7F-4EBA-9BB1-FCB9188DCBBC.jpeg" width="281" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe2hDrRWOzOGgM621UFnixptYcvjWce3yuVLUWVa1fnviSJ_sNI-xhw77zoZkQBMkVJu9_8WkS0sDKlmSeAJkNfhS2oIGm7VEzV9hQE8c-ofPv6IXGFGidAhceTJ7F-_PtdoBQpFtPr5aIjhTFuwWTolfJN2rY21glg_begHgA_2hZ2brBj14OmCCY/s697/20730343-8B51-41C5-87AC-01D15F719DF4.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="629" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe2hDrRWOzOGgM621UFnixptYcvjWce3yuVLUWVa1fnviSJ_sNI-xhw77zoZkQBMkVJu9_8WkS0sDKlmSeAJkNfhS2oIGm7VEzV9hQE8c-ofPv6IXGFGidAhceTJ7F-_PtdoBQpFtPr5aIjhTFuwWTolfJN2rY21glg_begHgA_2hZ2brBj14OmCCY/s320/20730343-8B51-41C5-87AC-01D15F719DF4.jpeg" width="289" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq45ICf7hGUOqdgMZJo9zRTnNz1PpJWpkvP4JgQjb-6cJaANVvAM-ZukMjzYyX61kYFLeGs8IU6nucyVVYAeEWu6Zdq18s3NrzZcs2BJxXJCEaFRn7PYiqiaSSR5M6ZBcpk8bZzBVy_OIsyxa90yHKOdDz7Jaso0hFWri_vZKNuvbSWFF7HudNum8Q/s641/F46526F8-5D97-4FB2-BB55-950D1B80D10D.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="641" data-original-width="626" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq45ICf7hGUOqdgMZJo9zRTnNz1PpJWpkvP4JgQjb-6cJaANVvAM-ZukMjzYyX61kYFLeGs8IU6nucyVVYAeEWu6Zdq18s3NrzZcs2BJxXJCEaFRn7PYiqiaSSR5M6ZBcpk8bZzBVy_OIsyxa90yHKOdDz7Jaso0hFWri_vZKNuvbSWFF7HudNum8Q/s320/F46526F8-5D97-4FB2-BB55-950D1B80D10D.jpeg" width="313" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Backing up again...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There do seem to be triangular shoulder linens in earlier paintings, but they always seem to be part of a larger head covering.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9VIdLg-rJMFvuNUd07yh5LQO74k0D1gWliUTFSisZcW4KNVO8z77eicqj4-A9I6tOIFsI3POag-ljvdRMPkXn9pJDm2Vcgv-CAuKKLsU_G1wYCtoRwee-Hb9ivus0ZxsI54a0fB0JWmYqZTYoqZitgvqW0qn0SlPVBg4GR1bf6qvYAwhBiVxzgXPn/s1024/BFDB47DC-76DE-4DE1-B07E-E922FDE85CE6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="716" data-original-width="1024" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9VIdLg-rJMFvuNUd07yh5LQO74k0D1gWliUTFSisZcW4KNVO8z77eicqj4-A9I6tOIFsI3POag-ljvdRMPkXn9pJDm2Vcgv-CAuKKLsU_G1wYCtoRwee-Hb9ivus0ZxsI54a0fB0JWmYqZTYoqZitgvqW0qn0SlPVBg4GR1bf6qvYAwhBiVxzgXPn/w400-h280/BFDB47DC-76DE-4DE1-B07E-E922FDE85CE6.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">"Battle of Carnival and Lent" by </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Breughel the Younger (1564-1638),</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Based on the 1559 painting by Bruegel the Elder</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGqMmOD2VygyhxpTpNto1wwSUBGKWcNvx9WRoYQuQvE4kex51ocRcrjfbAx2e4cJVmb2zYOGiRv7-uqZ3BQRoNfkKCK81eeWOyGIDGlH1sJGx1uK6fxFsxBM4SYQYQBgx4FHQTTksFk3D-4GqiySgDyAcpzx2bByMAD-A4IDGEUkHngv7kOe-ldSfp/s1190/E4A9DAC8-7A2C-4AD0-A873-386C03FB5050.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="866" data-original-width="1190" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGqMmOD2VygyhxpTpNto1wwSUBGKWcNvx9WRoYQuQvE4kex51ocRcrjfbAx2e4cJVmb2zYOGiRv7-uqZ3BQRoNfkKCK81eeWOyGIDGlH1sJGx1uK6fxFsxBM4SYQYQBgx4FHQTTksFk3D-4GqiySgDyAcpzx2bByMAD-A4IDGEUkHngv7kOe-ldSfp/s320/E4A9DAC8-7A2C-4AD0-A873-386C03FB5050.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhBf0lcCFNRfdGDJr5CpxQxU16XvmNgsJk--RG1VgQgz3UQiG5iBPpaCl_qKVroTnSKDNu8U-RBKhfJSxxSo-MXaRiWbKPdsZxUPSk2fNuGbpc5mtugmb1QiB-WmQwQdGekOFrClUTNagD01SU6QTDvnzPskQIzNh82jxFxpTtVMv5wytmAyzZBCgN/s1630/316B1A64-21D5-4478-93D4-04947FB7286E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1630" data-original-width="1464" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhBf0lcCFNRfdGDJr5CpxQxU16XvmNgsJk--RG1VgQgz3UQiG5iBPpaCl_qKVroTnSKDNu8U-RBKhfJSxxSo-MXaRiWbKPdsZxUPSk2fNuGbpc5mtugmb1QiB-WmQwQdGekOFrClUTNagD01SU6QTDvnzPskQIzNh82jxFxpTtVMv5wytmAyzZBCgN/s320/316B1A64-21D5-4478-93D4-04947FB7286E.jpeg" width="287" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Based on that, I decide to stick with a folded linen square...at least until I can find more concrete evidence of anything more specific).<div><br /></div><div>This one is 24" square.<br /><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzE374OJtO1kUD_Yg_uw-hxOHBqqsM0cEpI8WVD-mxq-fVtW8Sjg6TCdpE_yyxQdG6Xd6WWaZdqhgKYdS51VXz_N-1Is6oU8owAaxz_anobp0wRNzP7JBsF1UNpwKy2LyGhZ8BvNya7QxjusRlMYdPqwh6Y_YXxabg4GS16o3sCLHnMkjHNsuCs3H0/s3883/310A919C-792F-4D43-ABBE-06516609C596.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2354" data-original-width="3883" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzE374OJtO1kUD_Yg_uw-hxOHBqqsM0cEpI8WVD-mxq-fVtW8Sjg6TCdpE_yyxQdG6Xd6WWaZdqhgKYdS51VXz_N-1Is6oU8owAaxz_anobp0wRNzP7JBsF1UNpwKy2LyGhZ8BvNya7QxjusRlMYdPqwh6Y_YXxabg4GS16o3sCLHnMkjHNsuCs3H0/s320/310A919C-792F-4D43-ABBE-06516609C596.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And with that, the outfit is done! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">An 'easy' summer project...that only took 8+ months.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMFleAo19PucQmpvF5MRH99ssE1kZWupQHwm3JNX2CFzXpUscs4-UFMUI2f293PsdXmim6rFLShD84lGWQDyiXCh8frltwHKmjJhc48it9BbFcrM-GIdUOx5BRLhHW9qqGUsabiOHzRqSs9XEH9o4QhczdOKCEE4ZdZbfzzzUjxgEmGF-PRlbiXbnY/s855/Blue_Compare-A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="803" data-original-width="855" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMFleAo19PucQmpvF5MRH99ssE1kZWupQHwm3JNX2CFzXpUscs4-UFMUI2f293PsdXmim6rFLShD84lGWQDyiXCh8frltwHKmjJhc48it9BbFcrM-GIdUOx5BRLhHW9qqGUsabiOHzRqSs9XEH9o4QhczdOKCEE4ZdZbfzzzUjxgEmGF-PRlbiXbnY/w400-h376/Blue_Compare-A.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div>(Note: I don't know that I'm loving the shoulder linen. Something about it looks sort of <i>wrong</i>. But, oh well! Something to fix for next time!)</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUOeI5cQQoYTrYMfJEyybPIK1a9ZypNJGxMC1nyZKK4309_J-pmfJwXtdnNgD93dUeKcZAP0b08beyaENudGZBnhHStFU5Fv1mKq4X0y5PK9NWzGOXpvgGUgyqGRJkdxpnuAlazqnKP6obPUfrSlA4wJgMr8wjyP7CqprC7LH6nf05RVHhmGuz2vKv/s5587/BK_07A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5587" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUOeI5cQQoYTrYMfJEyybPIK1a9ZypNJGxMC1nyZKK4309_J-pmfJwXtdnNgD93dUeKcZAP0b08beyaENudGZBnhHStFU5Fv1mKq4X0y5PK9NWzGOXpvgGUgyqGRJkdxpnuAlazqnKP6obPUfrSlA4wJgMr8wjyP7CqprC7LH6nf05RVHhmGuz2vKv/w204-h320/BK_07A.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtdVNd7bYv-BMFKc-HJfZ7i2fyZB9Tp9Z1Y_FcyauGI5eFihJXtw5U_BFCypHBdQ1hv_n4hmCtaUeWEg52X_ukgCmmt8Tk0Etxkm3jPyIXQDPpb1llDdSvIB7EcDY_0By4CcjnQ0bICKmzW261QKak80x8u49Ml0g9xifRQVd8szDZsVRLZxnPI00P/s5587/BK_06B.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5587" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtdVNd7bYv-BMFKc-HJfZ7i2fyZB9Tp9Z1Y_FcyauGI5eFihJXtw5U_BFCypHBdQ1hv_n4hmCtaUeWEg52X_ukgCmmt8Tk0Etxkm3jPyIXQDPpb1llDdSvIB7EcDY_0By4CcjnQ0bICKmzW261QKak80x8u49Ml0g9xifRQVd8szDZsVRLZxnPI00P/w204-h320/BK_06B.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73ekNQTEnluB3etF7yijvblVJgP93IVggiGRlO3JaChErYY7hPXxEkx6AV84kRh52iB9qbHJWMR3tunAnR7WpVyWAk9bV1tw0jaEW8a96-c7dbh0eAnasWM_jiDbLLtc-xEBbt-U3dqNemFxV3f7M2E3UBrCmdf68jfex4TSv_N43srSOEI79oNrj/s5587/BK_09A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5587" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg73ekNQTEnluB3etF7yijvblVJgP93IVggiGRlO3JaChErYY7hPXxEkx6AV84kRh52iB9qbHJWMR3tunAnR7WpVyWAk9bV1tw0jaEW8a96-c7dbh0eAnasWM_jiDbLLtc-xEBbt-U3dqNemFxV3f7M2E3UBrCmdf68jfex4TSv_N43srSOEI79oNrj/w204-h320/BK_09A.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifGtrd54Kc5QVO0iZcWLAjVCeT0AJOWBpQQ7aiGaIPZVqYgJlPpTtzmxt0HT-zMai-pmmlpmBXhjn-OltAHzlJAT49aPaa5mIJjfouw8zbZgxecc82hEGjoCQa0Y1_Dyw2P-ZyCYo1cQLDtXh9PoXfHQvZY73Afo77aal03HKZ5xiCRJD5gccwLyNC/s5587/BK_08A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5587" data-original-width="3561" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifGtrd54Kc5QVO0iZcWLAjVCeT0AJOWBpQQ7aiGaIPZVqYgJlPpTtzmxt0HT-zMai-pmmlpmBXhjn-OltAHzlJAT49aPaa5mIJjfouw8zbZgxecc82hEGjoCQa0Y1_Dyw2P-ZyCYo1cQLDtXh9PoXfHQvZY73Afo77aal03HKZ5xiCRJD5gccwLyNC/w204-h320/BK_08A.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Final thoughts...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I really like the overall silhouette and feel of this outfit. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'm obsessed with the wool and think it's the perfect weight and drape for the skirt.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'm still a little annoyed that I continue to fall back on boning, especially when it's <i>completely</i> inappropriate, but I keep on liking the results...which I guess is why I still think of these as costumes and not clothes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(which is okay)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I can definitely see myself coming back to this period. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In fact, since I've already started on a second version of this kirtle in red, I can pretty much guarantee it...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIlW1UFjZ_LvguJra8dLacTwjaTzGbkQQKj06HrDvGJG9SiWFwNVDnIIPYe5Afq_oPa-FLphfnRkPnw28HMjq6Poov8IeNyXktVVNmQC8PdYVbwviDCaosSDfrLERZgN-NEySXKQyUM1Sn5R9DkzqCsqfIYTm2Y8j1lXqRNW0uVilcEIW4PLAP4mDn/s2346/A0C68C28-9F02-4F60-A459-60A1FF85CE65.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2124" data-original-width="2346" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIlW1UFjZ_LvguJra8dLacTwjaTzGbkQQKj06HrDvGJG9SiWFwNVDnIIPYe5Afq_oPa-FLphfnRkPnw28HMjq6Poov8IeNyXktVVNmQC8PdYVbwviDCaosSDfrLERZgN-NEySXKQyUM1Sn5R9DkzqCsqfIYTm2Y8j1lXqRNW0uVilcEIW4PLAP4mDn/s320/A0C68C28-9F02-4F60-A459-60A1FF85CE65.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Pattern: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-<a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/">The Tudor Tailor</a> (book and/or ready-made pattern...but really, the bodice is mostly self drafted at this point)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/482976216/the-queens-servants-gentlewomens-dress">The Queen's Servants</a> (book and/or ready-made pattern)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Fabric:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Blue wool from <a href="https://dorrmillstore.com/">Dorr Mill</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Purple wool from <a href="https://dorrmillstore.com/">Dorr Mill</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Blue "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Natural "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Hemp/cotton muslin for interlining (10.5) from <a href="http://www.hemptraders.com/">Hemp Traders</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Muslin for mockup (also from Hemp Traders, but any muslin should do)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Trim and Notions:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Linen tape (1/4") for lacing from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Thread:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Blue silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Purple silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White cotton thread (silk finish) for linens</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Boning:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-7mm Plastic coated spring steel bones (4) from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=68&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-7mm Synthetic whalebone also from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=137&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Other Supplies:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Swedish pattern paper from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sewable-Swedish-Tracing-Paper-Inches/dp/B000PNEWVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383452754&sr=8-1&keywords=swiss+pattern+paper">Amazon</a>. (This stuff is great! You can iron it!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Pattern weights</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-43004891203558249092023-03-11T12:21:00.009-08:002023-11-23T09:59:42.957-08:00Mustard Brown Doublet (v2.0) "Mix & Match"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjw4UEfwyBFvi5vQX8kTXzWlqdjBeUv7yw1MWqHRAdgat1KFBrrJZj8CUUtTI8DsRZSbF0zb1jFXDrGTNsXbGH-t3574t5HqR8VbzjkEcqd9N2_a2OAZbwVJQKFtxL9wuSK7d7lD7dCI7schopbVMEi2WNLVWY6ojhKuhdFTifCYglFIP-i3mZ8lfq/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjw4UEfwyBFvi5vQX8kTXzWlqdjBeUv7yw1MWqHRAdgat1KFBrrJZj8CUUtTI8DsRZSbF0zb1jFXDrGTNsXbGH-t3574t5HqR8VbzjkEcqd9N2_a2OAZbwVJQKFtxL9wuSK7d7lD7dCI7schopbVMEi2WNLVWY6ojhKuhdFTifCYglFIP-i3mZ8lfq/w128-h200/Hollar%20Doublet_10.jpg" width="128" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvkX6rskHSqFXe_ZchI5H-L-BdPhjktpPdccuSL_1yuvwHkGgvIzutuMLx2AZUZboyOOa-fOAYJ8GuzZaiNu4gvdeVwmBy3tBdDPUKcgS4flUQ__jKp7Mc7m20BOM2TKPeY8xSmkdJ0InKmh506m2KUXujWbVP6K_8oq_CCmrXWhhOubR8MDMq5Zsf/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_21.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3450" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvkX6rskHSqFXe_ZchI5H-L-BdPhjktpPdccuSL_1yuvwHkGgvIzutuMLx2AZUZboyOOa-fOAYJ8GuzZaiNu4gvdeVwmBy3tBdDPUKcgS4flUQ__jKp7Mc7m20BOM2TKPeY8xSmkdJ0InKmh506m2KUXujWbVP6K_8oq_CCmrXWhhOubR8MDMq5Zsf/w127-h200/Hollar%20Doublet_21.jpg" width="127" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhESm_-hP1Dfvjg-P6zqSkdOY4WBubv0exKthl2jmw1Yfo43DbOWlwrDfeRxhcBRTrWAr0tsOVIBI_s0fkTC7VY70E3jGNph0B4FsSodF-NdBuJtjpD92x8FDCh5uKhzHSRJTWmFN6KZBt3shICSPS6dVuWp1h7cgZs22vO-fPwQTVwe9uoHDL_Vu-9/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_16.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3589" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhESm_-hP1Dfvjg-P6zqSkdOY4WBubv0exKthl2jmw1Yfo43DbOWlwrDfeRxhcBRTrWAr0tsOVIBI_s0fkTC7VY70E3jGNph0B4FsSodF-NdBuJtjpD92x8FDCh5uKhzHSRJTWmFN6KZBt3shICSPS6dVuWp1h7cgZs22vO-fPwQTVwe9uoHDL_Vu-9/w133-h200/Hollar%20Doublet_16.jpg" width="133" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJN5K_M8VG4GS9z9UYk-n8PIyGDe01ZTAfN-2_3z0lZ8l93vtQK-6-Ebpo1ntf9CnCoobYOFbTmyz6MGzDZlR_qTUqpZ_GHJPGpxuVhzo2134sPAS0ql-OPC4aAKwOloeJ_ttddBro6Jw78kXCze7YHQ9ycSjBa7_vR2sGhnWNARLWk6WiRkBYoNYX/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_31.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJN5K_M8VG4GS9z9UYk-n8PIyGDe01ZTAfN-2_3z0lZ8l93vtQK-6-Ebpo1ntf9CnCoobYOFbTmyz6MGzDZlR_qTUqpZ_GHJPGpxuVhzo2134sPAS0ql-OPC4aAKwOloeJ_ttddBro6Jw78kXCze7YHQ9ycSjBa7_vR2sGhnWNARLWk6WiRkBYoNYX/w128-h200/Hollar%20Doublet_31.jpg" width="128" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ-hdAnxtuVrt9zftwYBL2JzOCXOyYw8bBFqxihwk1DGT4maxkRu2q2ARzQ_wwNUWcjVT0uwfb1s_c2UCVivoqf7bnGzZ0w_e9hZuffN37CskdD_7GBxKi6_bDPADbjLQ1l7-tYI3yijcy0ZFDFw5sfsmQUNuiysdxmuzlBmDnYESvLQac3uXLAsQY/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_05.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ-hdAnxtuVrt9zftwYBL2JzOCXOyYw8bBFqxihwk1DGT4maxkRu2q2ARzQ_wwNUWcjVT0uwfb1s_c2UCVivoqf7bnGzZ0w_e9hZuffN37CskdD_7GBxKi6_bDPADbjLQ1l7-tYI3yijcy0ZFDFw5sfsmQUNuiysdxmuzlBmDnYESvLQac3uXLAsQY/w128-h200/Hollar%20Doublet_05.jpg" width="128" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0AcQUrKa3X0HucHh5Kmfq7qfLb_BM5n9la6hjfVStOrTniNgpB8Xv4iPTs2QWH-UNWLdinNo4fydDhNrKM2VsQyvHEIoj__qQ-SOHs_Xvzo8GqDDyI5X11CDpNtssqV9DWGlDDBq2M7SlKI8ogFnZ5r6m6rmrbMijNV5a8F0aG-sXlUZHPj3gkPF1/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_29.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0AcQUrKa3X0HucHh5Kmfq7qfLb_BM5n9la6hjfVStOrTniNgpB8Xv4iPTs2QWH-UNWLdinNo4fydDhNrKM2VsQyvHEIoj__qQ-SOHs_Xvzo8GqDDyI5X11CDpNtssqV9DWGlDDBq2M7SlKI8ogFnZ5r6m6rmrbMijNV5a8F0aG-sXlUZHPj3gkPF1/w128-h200/Hollar%20Doublet_29.jpg" width="128" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">As documented in an <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/02/mustard-brown-doublet.html">earlier post</a>, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge.<br />This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little <i>off. </i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;">I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPNpJpTNAgyrlbNu9YIkI1Jn1nQfX3Q3-l5NpV61Oet4JnBuFqmcR_FSUTfE9f55MvfADujwtTbEiF_R1H-EqmroZgAgWwW0hyOtR_Q-Dk19f6Eop9Kk_cglElFKkhQyIe9VKhYp2bDVw0Pr2RoTDfndMT6NDxifyhXUO9w4YN4rZ_aMxO_dKdVM_q/s1199/3A62CE51-49F8-4564-B129-B68ACA488911.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1094" data-original-width="1199" height="365" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPNpJpTNAgyrlbNu9YIkI1Jn1nQfX3Q3-l5NpV61Oet4JnBuFqmcR_FSUTfE9f55MvfADujwtTbEiF_R1H-EqmroZgAgWwW0hyOtR_Q-Dk19f6Eop9Kk_cglElFKkhQyIe9VKhYp2bDVw0Pr2RoTDfndMT6NDxifyhXUO9w4YN4rZ_aMxO_dKdVM_q/w400-h365/3A62CE51-49F8-4564-B129-B68ACA488911.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrqBb4Nmi3YZhvKUQW4kx3flNq0ehRsf1l1dQBXbIvpMx1QGMAS6jAITC4bxPx1eiCSchabbsojNhgczplvbb6_ryd0SLa79Yh5LLRjxS78Do01wYEFbOwJpTiqfHoDuVULlTARMb82AEjapfW8_7Q_KluFmArFDurMLsol9brSrIWd0L32fAVX7LF/s1074/BF4C8C67-61B6-4F82-8F46-5D200936C529.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1074" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrqBb4Nmi3YZhvKUQW4kx3flNq0ehRsf1l1dQBXbIvpMx1QGMAS6jAITC4bxPx1eiCSchabbsojNhgczplvbb6_ryd0SLa79Yh5LLRjxS78Do01wYEFbOwJpTiqfHoDuVULlTARMb82AEjapfW8_7Q_KluFmArFDurMLsol9brSrIWd0L32fAVX7LF/s320/BF4C8C67-61B6-4F82-8F46-5D200936C529.jpeg" width="223" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikY57IaMCeG3ANalCPjIlmnsXqqDWVgNk8uJQg6mEp41vrBUAEElYt8z_4J5bGNxXzMU4HlIxWkMe27Qs3PJUJ0UtA-2Gd7J3XFvqY4n7nE3Lu3Ub8vZ9VsX9OyZ4TMyt6v57kX4uDwNOx84Z3_Zd4Kv0QTXwytI4Odjqzy4DYiVBh23hbeIYRCey3/s1200/FEE11C45-0896-43D3-BAE8-8542C7369CF6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1177" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikY57IaMCeG3ANalCPjIlmnsXqqDWVgNk8uJQg6mEp41vrBUAEElYt8z_4J5bGNxXzMU4HlIxWkMe27Qs3PJUJ0UtA-2Gd7J3XFvqY4n7nE3Lu3Ub8vZ9VsX9OyZ4TMyt6v57kX4uDwNOx84Z3_Zd4Kv0QTXwytI4Odjqzy4DYiVBh23hbeIYRCey3/s320/FEE11C45-0896-43D3-BAE8-8542C7369CF6.jpeg" width="314" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_GQYZMiVjZZjiqcVDZnE2EE1EQtguiWFiK6KM6uJScN7Cr_5NVgakGJWIKkXjZ5qxtaG6ZyULZ9R7Q69ugZB7xioVZzy81jxJKBWM4unXCZ0A2nel3o-xZQyDkhjNbNyQekduu-awPEiPthR7F07t3kLmX979--pWcQ31W3EiknomKkpD3T0LPLhm/s640/E60A1344-DCF4-4C41-BADA-EF680F798189.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="526" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_GQYZMiVjZZjiqcVDZnE2EE1EQtguiWFiK6KM6uJScN7Cr_5NVgakGJWIKkXjZ5qxtaG6ZyULZ9R7Q69ugZB7xioVZzy81jxJKBWM4unXCZ0A2nel3o-xZQyDkhjNbNyQekduu-awPEiPthR7F07t3kLmX979--pWcQ31W3EiknomKkpD3T0LPLhm/s320/E60A1344-DCF4-4C41-BADA-EF680F798189.jpeg" width="263" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQAG4mNfJnypV70wVUJv0Kkn0SkGgvts_Zl0MBtFXhtGQrJhj7ArlsGlqSbJxeggwsTuwXwtC4V3aAqB9ZFNRD05jhO9j_JlM3uEf_XcrEPviIzN1QokiwrCMpixDTeCt7376SCkRNaA6no1L27Bdlu9nVHEcKIZOPUlr-EacWWcnVOijeZZLFnXCX/s1510/DF17FBAF-6ED9-436B-B810-06A27242883A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1510" data-original-width="1199" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQAG4mNfJnypV70wVUJv0Kkn0SkGgvts_Zl0MBtFXhtGQrJhj7ArlsGlqSbJxeggwsTuwXwtC4V3aAqB9ZFNRD05jhO9j_JlM3uEf_XcrEPviIzN1QokiwrCMpixDTeCt7376SCkRNaA6no1L27Bdlu9nVHEcKIZOPUlr-EacWWcnVOijeZZLFnXCX/s320/DF17FBAF-6ED9-436B-B810-06A27242883A.jpeg" width="254" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd6sojPhrQSkGIKRSdfVgwwLFaC_SJ1Pk-6vw4iGULa0XzQ1b4r2ZFvAo_QauTnV9vUmCvW46w4ErB62C1He8ebj408jxJVaS41WjCIORaOvdJQ_Sum1JrPM8evsg9ERojfXFMT5R0iHEt-pbnblUPn5Y1XEecyIpbfwugasngtLjGh3EC-OqLx6hW/s1183/81618FB0-5002-4772-837B-DC3801B1FDA7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1183" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd6sojPhrQSkGIKRSdfVgwwLFaC_SJ1Pk-6vw4iGULa0XzQ1b4r2ZFvAo_QauTnV9vUmCvW46w4ErB62C1He8ebj408jxJVaS41WjCIORaOvdJQ_Sum1JrPM8evsg9ERojfXFMT5R0iHEt-pbnblUPn5Y1XEecyIpbfwugasngtLjGh3EC-OqLx6hW/s320/81618FB0-5002-4772-837B-DC3801B1FDA7.jpeg" width="216" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_DzduySw_hjF1EzobyBdj3oieCL3t5yODT78LINkjRZMHaIip1xxIIuqJ0AtHOclj20aEnXwIa5IOjvZ6Smg9HvzZurFTnErtd04sUzPlvzJ3VvSmHALo3EX27wdrNLtpgJBxKNFGVddN5SOUHF8Nf9EUdxC67wj6ahbZ9TaRJlQ-59ab47xPLOR/s1322/91BEBF58-F4CA-4970-BDC6-4B0B8F709811.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1322" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_DzduySw_hjF1EzobyBdj3oieCL3t5yODT78LINkjRZMHaIip1xxIIuqJ0AtHOclj20aEnXwIa5IOjvZ6Smg9HvzZurFTnErtd04sUzPlvzJ3VvSmHALo3EX27wdrNLtpgJBxKNFGVddN5SOUHF8Nf9EUdxC67wj6ahbZ9TaRJlQ-59ab47xPLOR/s320/91BEBF58-F4CA-4970-BDC6-4B0B8F709811.jpeg" width="194" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGHUedqgRvFps3iFK7CJdounAFHuxu6BzI6XkHaoyqWHE9vHnczqR5v0v4AW2Mk7NeECFxAhiexPRIGl2mGQRXZ-h5qaE4Yq_1H28McLyk3rAkdYgQaJ7p_ztQdbcn_ceP4bEsodptar_YVkbq_V-Ju2N61GGsIQ4iddgiz8qgDF1pudtECBGStBF/s1200/75E5ECB7-D3DE-41CF-92FD-141763B00D5E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="948" data-original-width="1200" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGHUedqgRvFps3iFK7CJdounAFHuxu6BzI6XkHaoyqWHE9vHnczqR5v0v4AW2Mk7NeECFxAhiexPRIGl2mGQRXZ-h5qaE4Yq_1H28McLyk3rAkdYgQaJ7p_ztQdbcn_ceP4bEsodptar_YVkbq_V-Ju2N61GGsIQ4iddgiz8qgDF1pudtECBGStBF/s320/75E5ECB7-D3DE-41CF-92FD-141763B00D5E.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK1zS5QSoDeEVCKr2XOzA3AFNX-Khzb4tmPQvm1fRgtry4NGdyY93kauevEsITyLQmeI1oELW39vEphdaG-5fvsFZn4BlCLjDdPpOknf0geBtRkwoYw6toA3HMlkazzTxnZMkjCYj_NKmANhuya3w5bIGaXEXSPTRLAxSj3EVZDOgWnMKFzPR-APY3/s1185/E729B4A6-CEB1-42E7-8717-4F694E6921A6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="912" data-original-width="1185" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK1zS5QSoDeEVCKr2XOzA3AFNX-Khzb4tmPQvm1fRgtry4NGdyY93kauevEsITyLQmeI1oELW39vEphdaG-5fvsFZn4BlCLjDdPpOknf0geBtRkwoYw6toA3HMlkazzTxnZMkjCYj_NKmANhuya3w5bIGaXEXSPTRLAxSj3EVZDOgWnMKFzPR-APY3/s320/E729B4A6-CEB1-42E7-8717-4F694E6921A6.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJS7GjIi3htQGAhjKEtY2-2rDjhHA6R8NDdAcVSL98zTJ-z57Lqp4v74isYnhXGNVZy4izQH0aFeFmDhUUvjrYeLRRh7zTCC4oMvWxglVWNBGvkGbnzc_IvUgKHGKETL5OwsjA67iTmF7lJUf8gFCZklyien-PLHNsIc-NNq9U3u6SQBGLnoK5GkFe/s1200/E557F485-8F7F-412B-ABEE-1FDB4C7C702A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1005" data-original-width="1200" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJS7GjIi3htQGAhjKEtY2-2rDjhHA6R8NDdAcVSL98zTJ-z57Lqp4v74isYnhXGNVZy4izQH0aFeFmDhUUvjrYeLRRh7zTCC4oMvWxglVWNBGvkGbnzc_IvUgKHGKETL5OwsjA67iTmF7lJUf8gFCZklyien-PLHNsIc-NNq9U3u6SQBGLnoK5GkFe/s320/E557F485-8F7F-412B-ABEE-1FDB4C7C702A.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The first look is the one featured in my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/02/mustard-brown-doublet.html">dress diary</a>...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOOFltqJ86NQ10-74CvbWTmgVP2QVA4fwcPFNTHihgx7qP0KuDrdTmLb3BlWCFaV5aarmaquw7H1EY63rzFo-H0RpQ1BsxRV9Hw17GTUQfs0A9BJzOGMMItDAfUF8xxLc5Y9L0hMQSZ456SOr0EdpKzju-CRqXgcKA-KmNDE3Y9kdrLcdKM_FVa1ib/s4320/Hollar%20Doublet_01A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2880" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOOFltqJ86NQ10-74CvbWTmgVP2QVA4fwcPFNTHihgx7qP0KuDrdTmLb3BlWCFaV5aarmaquw7H1EY63rzFo-H0RpQ1BsxRV9Hw17GTUQfs0A9BJzOGMMItDAfUF8xxLc5Y9L0hMQSZ456SOr0EdpKzju-CRqXgcKA-KmNDE3Y9kdrLcdKM_FVa1ib/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_01A.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxouc1TztxfyohHXNPqNSZJWUIrACl7YiAANp3WzsN4n9UTqNa2jFlKIrKz5ESWBBzm1rdhY3_CUPM7Ec57k-myu6og1ksBQvdUA54Uve9QI3iu0SBTgkPc7UyKnf_wfr58GnLxrKKMi0QuBHZvu8SM9l4fKnQLqX_2C_xewM9Q5qWdCFoDsjgWxV9/s4320/Hollar%20Doublet_02A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2880" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxouc1TztxfyohHXNPqNSZJWUIrACl7YiAANp3WzsN4n9UTqNa2jFlKIrKz5ESWBBzm1rdhY3_CUPM7Ec57k-myu6og1ksBQvdUA54Uve9QI3iu0SBTgkPc7UyKnf_wfr58GnLxrKKMi0QuBHZvu8SM9l4fKnQLqX_2C_xewM9Q5qWdCFoDsjgWxV9/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_02A.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI79tf1LUcSP7gw5wMMjr0GNa-psFzut7bMdrtS-29g87UiM7M0M3fS2vD_LdmObsaHF5rUEl6Rn9d6F1vFfvqMhcIv_o3EFDuLKanBf3LvhXG4VFeesplII8eE5NT3SaIw2H3D1YIhCCdFIdjwOgdjFtWh3CL4j7BA5YirB_ukrfvDZr7exU6eC68/s4320/Hollar%20Doublet_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2880" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI79tf1LUcSP7gw5wMMjr0GNa-psFzut7bMdrtS-29g87UiM7M0M3fS2vD_LdmObsaHF5rUEl6Rn9d6F1vFfvqMhcIv_o3EFDuLKanBf3LvhXG4VFeesplII8eE5NT3SaIw2H3D1YIhCCdFIdjwOgdjFtWh3CL4j7BA5YirB_ukrfvDZr7exU6eC68/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_03.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Riw2Q8WEYUu6S-N1HQ7D6TGifSuIpl6AvGXfSii2WofJPRLnfaRRaeuEd7VbeiT6kj1j95OoVnihFUkVkUEniw6j7NnRx77r2llDh4-an9Wz1w-lsc2-EmmzTMQQPBKDXgsnzHQdndYRriYuqXBBhIdjADNr9SuwMCTmzGCLKpOjVVKcY-LCCmRo/s4320/Hollar%20Doublet_04.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2880" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Riw2Q8WEYUu6S-N1HQ7D6TGifSuIpl6AvGXfSii2WofJPRLnfaRRaeuEd7VbeiT6kj1j95OoVnihFUkVkUEniw6j7NnRx77r2llDh4-an9Wz1w-lsc2-EmmzTMQQPBKDXgsnzHQdndYRriYuqXBBhIdjADNr9SuwMCTmzGCLKpOjVVKcY-LCCmRo/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_04.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinB3pa_22Wldl3zsU2uqpVPrJnqurltDkY_gOndksBbQ92BDpYaqWrUfnYmiT6lCslgf7eg4riuLihwsqlCbFAUAWTFNykLjZwUKyKCjw4rCFyKQ6ZfKJo-z69OwM1G1E3JsVBRWzz-4pPoyGiYKhzZSXeswyoJvjwjgSWAxj1K2dkjYGB3BBd1zGa/s1828/594F50ED-D920-426B-A27D-E8937D04999D.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1732" data-original-width="1828" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinB3pa_22Wldl3zsU2uqpVPrJnqurltDkY_gOndksBbQ92BDpYaqWrUfnYmiT6lCslgf7eg4riuLihwsqlCbFAUAWTFNykLjZwUKyKCjw4rCFyKQ6ZfKJo-z69OwM1G1E3JsVBRWzz-4pPoyGiYKhzZSXeswyoJvjwjgSWAxj1K2dkjYGB3BBd1zGa/s320/594F50ED-D920-426B-A27D-E8937D04999D.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjk4FwDhjzzHQ1fbJN8tMB0PUqbTxN1sZGxEvDSp0ednN3FIDkYR3ZCkR2aeU7kXnS17yzuoUwwfW-QtDxifBfwj3scgOOfJDbnS3ei440SURmS556djCvCazzAOztZhfaP-2QvQsbDjKRCwp2pOf2sCJt7o8z2R6uOBisLwAwiefxdc2p9UQzjweC/s3998/BC8964E3-FC13-4DB9-B881-41425F7B956B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2759" data-original-width="3998" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjk4FwDhjzzHQ1fbJN8tMB0PUqbTxN1sZGxEvDSp0ednN3FIDkYR3ZCkR2aeU7kXnS17yzuoUwwfW-QtDxifBfwj3scgOOfJDbnS3ei440SURmS556djCvCazzAOztZhfaP-2QvQsbDjKRCwp2pOf2sCJt7o8z2R6uOBisLwAwiefxdc2p9UQzjweC/s320/BC8964E3-FC13-4DB9-B881-41425F7B956B.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Fq44y8dUVRk0C9pR-3iLrijNCvpUoziSrxa-g7nepI85sk5IIPy1QGwHoJuQ6QQAQAe2yC8kzXNJcJKnS6OdF-ZsXCHGB66KEXRG-YYL7wd7-_mlmke_77fMm5ajzN_uOmvXPusMUZRTHtc4m1I6zS5sWDqg3MPrrk--MAMKSyC4yQg4t-Bm_-sr/s2961/9C23142B-3320-4549-B921-8F3362338614.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2961" data-original-width="2899" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Fq44y8dUVRk0C9pR-3iLrijNCvpUoziSrxa-g7nepI85sk5IIPy1QGwHoJuQ6QQAQAe2yC8kzXNJcJKnS6OdF-ZsXCHGB66KEXRG-YYL7wd7-_mlmke_77fMm5ajzN_uOmvXPusMUZRTHtc4m1I6zS5sWDqg3MPrrk--MAMKSyC4yQg4t-Bm_-sr/s320/9C23142B-3320-4549-B921-8F3362338614.jpeg" width="313" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The cap is the one I made for my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2018/10/blue-trevelyon-gown.html">Trevelyon gown</a>, and as also worn over a close fitted coif.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgExEb1bENdCZvJAHKyqVTS9oYOPaV3_VeCDx-cgR818RwrJLMO9ZSERGON4l3D_O3Ngrl0EUFddYGl7r4qkTeP_I_l0szL7q-knV_--lcOC9dXsTY4UJwPAfuWlNllLHKkO4ZPj-ps-khcn-2PVPbJlYNqjwIdCRXQLL1VGI88zRUp68FvugJ07tVB/s2048/IMG_3953a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1807" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgExEb1bENdCZvJAHKyqVTS9oYOPaV3_VeCDx-cgR818RwrJLMO9ZSERGON4l3D_O3Ngrl0EUFddYGl7r4qkTeP_I_l0szL7q-knV_--lcOC9dXsTY4UJwPAfuWlNllLHKkO4ZPj-ps-khcn-2PVPbJlYNqjwIdCRXQLL1VGI88zRUp68FvugJ07tVB/s320/IMG_3953a.jpg" width="282" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHLcS0sgZ3t_qG0y68Pseqgwj9dXC4AikGVfiKDzc3Y9UOqoNmcXjViajnn8tG5KUSSGiSgSY6d_GzZV0CU69x5oe56p2Dr-JlbIx0ob3h7Kxwc2FKYPg4mEGk_xLLMITcDErJK4cwNymeJmfoU29ojbQcjA5GfWR7QZ3gCIryaQp8lj_hYkK29mt5/s2048/IMG_3954a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1816" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHLcS0sgZ3t_qG0y68Pseqgwj9dXC4AikGVfiKDzc3Y9UOqoNmcXjViajnn8tG5KUSSGiSgSY6d_GzZV0CU69x5oe56p2Dr-JlbIx0ob3h7Kxwc2FKYPg4mEGk_xLLMITcDErJK4cwNymeJmfoU29ojbQcjA5GfWR7QZ3gCIryaQp8lj_hYkK29mt5/s320/IMG_3954a.jpg" width="284" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsDda3NoNF37KSToOJL_86ogv2oSNarMFt_0B_o-0HCyCHN0xepQiyteFIonJxFkR4ObvqgEG-Gj8Tw9bkbeT2BAV6CyfJ49jy34rHdFfh5Py6P3jHwq3tTw0GCOJONeBBfYURbfEdYuNafi30RmLp8hoiJu1jTpo49Yg437kAXk1ud0E5KEgqJZdg/s2048/coif.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1740" data-original-width="2048" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsDda3NoNF37KSToOJL_86ogv2oSNarMFt_0B_o-0HCyCHN0xepQiyteFIonJxFkR4ObvqgEG-Gj8Tw9bkbeT2BAV6CyfJ49jy34rHdFfh5Py6P3jHwq3tTw0GCOJONeBBfYURbfEdYuNafi30RmLp8hoiJu1jTpo49Yg437kAXk1ud0E5KEgqJZdg/s320/coif.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkfBkBTYZXeSUM8oe-7mE0SBLpVoWG3ATsOH3CWeFGAras_BfzEtfjG7kBEOY69DTctw4k2Ouq5PNNCbtadgbP962U_DIhGU9enkaBjIYBHAz7lqzi3770sTYQ1t1W9BUX1gbdsxz_L9XPuzTpM7S1SzCP5s_TzNWk2HOOi4ALlbIz5vVrB9QfG85H/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_08.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkfBkBTYZXeSUM8oe-7mE0SBLpVoWG3ATsOH3CWeFGAras_BfzEtfjG7kBEOY69DTctw4k2Ouq5PNNCbtadgbP962U_DIhGU9enkaBjIYBHAz7lqzi3770sTYQ1t1W9BUX1gbdsxz_L9XPuzTpM7S1SzCP5s_TzNWk2HOOi4ALlbIz5vVrB9QfG85H/w205-h320/Hollar%20Doublet_08.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Qog77Mrgmma93qRcikFNYmWgDF-KBFSkO_j3-VWuiBp_wR1mAeq_-GQMYm0iJK5QVASCtSX3bfHOZgtLeRbo_tZcw8K60hjtzQX7CFQfk73wN9_mIvi7PYpfn8jkIMkbDuVMtOYKY4ppWtAIvR7D2M_HkVpEeyGH1lz3Yvl3PlBpY6muNjIrlzx6/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Qog77Mrgmma93qRcikFNYmWgDF-KBFSkO_j3-VWuiBp_wR1mAeq_-GQMYm0iJK5QVASCtSX3bfHOZgtLeRbo_tZcw8K60hjtzQX7CFQfk73wN9_mIvi7PYpfn8jkIMkbDuVMtOYKY4ppWtAIvR7D2M_HkVpEeyGH1lz3Yvl3PlBpY6muNjIrlzx6/w205-h320/Hollar%20Doublet_10.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKp34EFcbNdTdl_I3CcMULRUxPErB8uOuJbbxqq3yf8HPfZ1ZYSOn5ygmtu_BSzKDgcWNHTz7yg4eK82LxLegoQc5_JW8ihYX-2vYXbC49rDc6Svc7Bn-OrvIVfrKWSLJCKlqi47eDtTqjaJAUhvcLxxikfvQfTffB0UqVAzIDYYGbR3FUCMiF9MFj/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKp34EFcbNdTdl_I3CcMULRUxPErB8uOuJbbxqq3yf8HPfZ1ZYSOn5ygmtu_BSzKDgcWNHTz7yg4eK82LxLegoQc5_JW8ihYX-2vYXbC49rDc6Svc7Bn-OrvIVfrKWSLJCKlqi47eDtTqjaJAUhvcLxxikfvQfTffB0UqVAzIDYYGbR3FUCMiF9MFj/w205-h320/Hollar%20Doublet_11.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXaq59GMRSbExsQdxnYJfY7UzfXmsezAhHXunmYzwkCHfObbk87IGMMnEUS6-Fh1wO8W9CMA9srmFmL2HRQtOh7MM1tMKiYXi34jRkne8r7frNOoVd2SiUBbBhfEnRZHBxKRwb61bQ7_1msDFwu53TeSn26Xe5oLNXEL5ce0z8NGtPpRiflXt4vXfc/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_09.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXaq59GMRSbExsQdxnYJfY7UzfXmsezAhHXunmYzwkCHfObbk87IGMMnEUS6-Fh1wO8W9CMA9srmFmL2HRQtOh7MM1tMKiYXi34jRkne8r7frNOoVd2SiUBbBhfEnRZHBxKRwb61bQ7_1msDFwu53TeSn26Xe5oLNXEL5ce0z8NGtPpRiflXt4vXfc/w205-h320/Hollar%20Doublet_09.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRC5Aa9AcaFMzFn2UAyBR1uEuD6ZTbRE76wPU42TUBen4N9ChxtAlwo4MQGk8Hue5TKL5TTDtvutXyv6q5FlwIZCkf03lFCByAlsKyjHJ88VB9DZTfjNNeB5HOWMgzTrbLpncvHJ0MQReNWqUho4X0NI0vlcGKoA5JdoWgzzd6gwDgOwMkUfIvrqla/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRC5Aa9AcaFMzFn2UAyBR1uEuD6ZTbRE76wPU42TUBen4N9ChxtAlwo4MQGk8Hue5TKL5TTDtvutXyv6q5FlwIZCkf03lFCByAlsKyjHJ88VB9DZTfjNNeB5HOWMgzTrbLpncvHJ0MQReNWqUho4X0NI0vlcGKoA5JdoWgzzd6gwDgOwMkUfIvrqla/w205-h320/Hollar%20Doublet_12.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/ThimblebeeMillinery">Timblebee Millinery</a>)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzo7DyL24W365TpjAzwm6JCLJ0menVXWyZx3TtKLl_p4iiDPDdxv9xmtI5T1SDp7PRXH9ds4PfpImuzj10r5EmMU5ruC9RZUAVSBVTptN4CG8_h_20K0EjvfIp_GwEjW7havcFvF4EgSjK-lhraw2VffCTYZAodwhtMfanREazjHtB2R3U_Ehmwp6I/s3792/8F855AD4-2CFE-4424-AC20-18441BFF87F5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3792" data-original-width="2591" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzo7DyL24W365TpjAzwm6JCLJ0menVXWyZx3TtKLl_p4iiDPDdxv9xmtI5T1SDp7PRXH9ds4PfpImuzj10r5EmMU5ruC9RZUAVSBVTptN4CG8_h_20K0EjvfIp_GwEjW7havcFvF4EgSjK-lhraw2VffCTYZAodwhtMfanREazjHtB2R3U_Ehmwp6I/s320/8F855AD4-2CFE-4424-AC20-18441BFF87F5.jpeg" width="219" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_HQahswArqwyvxUlgMc5e_pyRc3VnOkeis0nsnRaKutylgYRSAOlVkwoBOz8X1ieZuVwXVHB_jmE8AD6evK72kuYOK7vZNQzRqc0pvzEgyk9ELpJgP3-WOjweuGh1McTIv5hdsxNiofAN7uLef2jiSJW20PFBws92nVkSia9kt8Z52gFJaaxAc_dc/s3622/E41E5DEF-0676-49B6-8B6A-5C6738ADECC3.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3622" data-original-width="2567" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_HQahswArqwyvxUlgMc5e_pyRc3VnOkeis0nsnRaKutylgYRSAOlVkwoBOz8X1ieZuVwXVHB_jmE8AD6evK72kuYOK7vZNQzRqc0pvzEgyk9ELpJgP3-WOjweuGh1McTIv5hdsxNiofAN7uLef2jiSJW20PFBws92nVkSia9kt8Z52gFJaaxAc_dc/s320/E41E5DEF-0676-49B6-8B6A-5C6738ADECC3.jpeg" width="227" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Then the ruff is switched out for a linen collar.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ-hdAnxtuVrt9zftwYBL2JzOCXOyYw8bBFqxihwk1DGT4maxkRu2q2ARzQ_wwNUWcjVT0uwfb1s_c2UCVivoqf7bnGzZ0w_e9hZuffN37CskdD_7GBxKi6_bDPADbjLQ1l7-tYI3yijcy0ZFDFw5sfsmQUNuiysdxmuzlBmDnYESvLQac3uXLAsQY/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_05.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ-hdAnxtuVrt9zftwYBL2JzOCXOyYw8bBFqxihwk1DGT4maxkRu2q2ARzQ_wwNUWcjVT0uwfb1s_c2UCVivoqf7bnGzZ0w_e9hZuffN37CskdD_7GBxKi6_bDPADbjLQ1l7-tYI3yijcy0ZFDFw5sfsmQUNuiysdxmuzlBmDnYESvLQac3uXLAsQY/w205-h320/Hollar%20Doublet_05.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86u9AkSl1rzO-uMNtdRgbjlnkLiP8dFZqy1CoQRjTwwhPj103tfGID_OU2T2zVNZk1dF-Dpzw4wzcgjWPmP3IogK_WXnKZ--4lGupjS5rPSUyB1heI2ozxJM9xJvb4O7ub5evV3iCeH2CM42lQwprq4xupPuBjCzFpdRCM2FMpeINmxmbZwiahxcn/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_06.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86u9AkSl1rzO-uMNtdRgbjlnkLiP8dFZqy1CoQRjTwwhPj103tfGID_OU2T2zVNZk1dF-Dpzw4wzcgjWPmP3IogK_WXnKZ--4lGupjS5rPSUyB1heI2ozxJM9xJvb4O7ub5evV3iCeH2CM42lQwprq4xupPuBjCzFpdRCM2FMpeINmxmbZwiahxcn/w205-h320/Hollar%20Doublet_06.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrE7N9Hs8h7GIm-IF8WWKsVabvxCe20VOppGMo4kmzVvWQAJ5Z1ROYpyOLfarjGAtggzMrtbcCAKkl1nE_AOI-EmWWZBIXtEG0RzGczrphZQu6EWYoI4Uty8M3zczKOWNklEn4sXobfxZGUbPOjxOIxlYFdB3_502z4NZvLDVg9btJRir4o6Fnm4E2/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_07.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrE7N9Hs8h7GIm-IF8WWKsVabvxCe20VOppGMo4kmzVvWQAJ5Z1ROYpyOLfarjGAtggzMrtbcCAKkl1nE_AOI-EmWWZBIXtEG0RzGczrphZQu6EWYoI4Uty8M3zczKOWNklEn4sXobfxZGUbPOjxOIxlYFdB3_502z4NZvLDVg9btJRir4o6Fnm4E2/w205-h320/Hollar%20Doublet_07.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJVs1Axcd-AwJxAL2d_if0_SJ9XgNqwm1UY9Y_aGfOAVb4663LuzpEDwXWdsHxMATXT8-3SZq0Ah4MHMM-pbCsp35m-R9cy1-faf0CQdFwqjTJOzzAYLENOw3fHROVJtgeKVOBepEqUQGn7dQcVXh54uhNpox8efw7RQOEdjECiOt8Cw8TJO5qbf2Z/s1474/2D1760B9-D271-4322-A1B2-0A50CC6183F7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1289" data-original-width="1474" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJVs1Axcd-AwJxAL2d_if0_SJ9XgNqwm1UY9Y_aGfOAVb4663LuzpEDwXWdsHxMATXT8-3SZq0Ah4MHMM-pbCsp35m-R9cy1-faf0CQdFwqjTJOzzAYLENOw3fHROVJtgeKVOBepEqUQGn7dQcVXh54uhNpox8efw7RQOEdjECiOt8Cw8TJO5qbf2Z/s320/2D1760B9-D271-4322-A1B2-0A50CC6183F7.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The collar is made of a strip of 2.8 oz linen, 4.5" in length. It's hemmed all the way around with a 1/8" hem, reducing the final width to 4.25" <div>The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent.<div>I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed.<br /><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgGPbSJGPjbB0EzOlIAruthOjPt2jc500B229qxt8IqnTr9aA4SNwt9LEHnIAJm-nHa593Uvkhi9GaTfc4U0hy6uCCO2B-2mDxUsvdlNZZsuHBal9jWrvbWZisI2it4AKLOYjFOi-H-2Bv1Up0XK7apCzsCXPCYZe-RAGmu8IAkMdfcJk1udZCDfv/s4030/6B2A2B4F-561B-43ED-BD1F-9C50460F0D80.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="4030" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgGPbSJGPjbB0EzOlIAruthOjPt2jc500B229qxt8IqnTr9aA4SNwt9LEHnIAJm-nHa593Uvkhi9GaTfc4U0hy6uCCO2B-2mDxUsvdlNZZsuHBal9jWrvbWZisI2it4AKLOYjFOi-H-2Bv1Up0XK7apCzsCXPCYZe-RAGmu8IAkMdfcJk1udZCDfv/s320/6B2A2B4F-561B-43ED-BD1F-9C50460F0D80.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br style="text-align: left;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWuQKDGBdwJh9Kll8sowxzAve1iQocsr511GZJuGK7AtXQkz3KvqMuE3nDE1CzKd6QgrE9iYEBmYiN-T7YKcAiiRiJYhow76CV7_R4YG1YtCWdOVyZhkTuByWXSLb3rV8oHNAdhiJhsDAP-4b9vdyNXGLGIzwSTCb8dMNs13UGTo8odtPpLIzCYDh2/s4030/AA465640-D154-4536-8B2B-ACB748074D98.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="4030" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWuQKDGBdwJh9Kll8sowxzAve1iQocsr511GZJuGK7AtXQkz3KvqMuE3nDE1CzKd6QgrE9iYEBmYiN-T7YKcAiiRiJYhow76CV7_R4YG1YtCWdOVyZhkTuByWXSLb3rV8oHNAdhiJhsDAP-4b9vdyNXGLGIzwSTCb8dMNs13UGTo8odtPpLIzCYDh2/s320/AA465640-D154-4536-8B2B-ACB748074D98.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div>Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky...</div><div>That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiccOdzP_YaeJLH69RTc3wOwMxaYbTtKeC3MEsI7Q6TvGe8gdG0NkWjueW6IcODiAhQh3pwalCdueccfVtoZBOXnVtu_bARunLmXFmVfPYyRJeRuJlwLQL6KKn-pLHTrrQf-rI_eah7EQOaJa1eNr30m4gI6MJ8Btd284VjMujWa_OXTUoYD3ZFm5eB/s3589/FFC234DB-4659-465F-BB2F-DB45330BAC8A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2967" data-original-width="3589" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiccOdzP_YaeJLH69RTc3wOwMxaYbTtKeC3MEsI7Q6TvGe8gdG0NkWjueW6IcODiAhQh3pwalCdueccfVtoZBOXnVtu_bARunLmXFmVfPYyRJeRuJlwLQL6KKn-pLHTrrQf-rI_eah7EQOaJa1eNr30m4gI6MJ8Btd284VjMujWa_OXTUoYD3ZFm5eB/s320/FFC234DB-4659-465F-BB2F-DB45330BAC8A.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Finally, a neck band is attached.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiamY-DsfSYxNmP-_kQyTNvQpOl2HACHV5F1ESWPLRB_IdiQ6L004MfA12KwlKUfGN0orHRdGOhcM1E-CDPSKS54di4q1ODCMkM2Ym67xP2PmofRAs5Q1D0Ax2u6WDdx4CJhducxaMzEmQKNsDltU-EH49h60TkGrwvkjSKKShVGGfNQYF3Ec7DavoQ/s2579/B04CF0B4-4569-4834-947F-A42BE96DEA17.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2031" data-original-width="2579" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiamY-DsfSYxNmP-_kQyTNvQpOl2HACHV5F1ESWPLRB_IdiQ6L004MfA12KwlKUfGN0orHRdGOhcM1E-CDPSKS54di4q1ODCMkM2Ym67xP2PmofRAs5Q1D0Ax2u6WDdx4CJhducxaMzEmQKNsDltU-EH49h60TkGrwvkjSKKShVGGfNQYF3Ec7DavoQ/s320/B04CF0B4-4569-4834-947F-A42BE96DEA17.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed.</div><div>(I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me)</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQlc0MSVGGpAWYnAQM32SS2Qw1QW7kSaDSQYBl7jdsf1UKx5AuWbb_JPtak54Osad_HUP7c37LtdYkCA3aNy2AqvIcHZh5bv5E3Y06rFPpa9xiqDQrPc_VwEvjXhhZFC7UYtonL-3sokM-eDbyTT-0OWt78VxknzhV-gGEztGFqid8Wd7GTA43oAyH/s1714/7D69CCDF-EC79-4C3D-830E-8D81D4300DCD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1623" data-original-width="1714" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQlc0MSVGGpAWYnAQM32SS2Qw1QW7kSaDSQYBl7jdsf1UKx5AuWbb_JPtak54Osad_HUP7c37LtdYkCA3aNy2AqvIcHZh5bv5E3Y06rFPpa9xiqDQrPc_VwEvjXhhZFC7UYtonL-3sokM-eDbyTT-0OWt78VxknzhV-gGEztGFqid8Wd7GTA43oAyH/s320/7D69CCDF-EC79-4C3D-830E-8D81D4300DCD.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoNDigiTI5gsyfQi6-brEpJX4G5uJj1gNWBSpNFfIVzNehaTZnrkTScpfY5GOBaHbGSbnFw3KPokLLhHAHUBxjjkZxhOM3NDjmpdcvqdIalnX1YCE9TOh8wDD0XrRWuoOIYrFSQVhJbYyV6RWkYhdsfX3dz04bAgX0RKbcB9gDac2hI58CccJO7Icb/s1778/D94C51F3-EB8F-4B3F-BE95-ECA94F8C9C06.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1778" data-original-width="1504" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoNDigiTI5gsyfQi6-brEpJX4G5uJj1gNWBSpNFfIVzNehaTZnrkTScpfY5GOBaHbGSbnFw3KPokLLhHAHUBxjjkZxhOM3NDjmpdcvqdIalnX1YCE9TOh8wDD0XrRWuoOIYrFSQVhJbYyV6RWkYhdsfX3dz04bAgX0RKbcB9gDac2hI58CccJO7Icb/s320/D94C51F3-EB8F-4B3F-BE95-ECA94F8C9C06.jpeg" width="271" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs. </div><div>So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcF6UYCLk7MNg0pgIxvq60WlA5O4VLkDGr3lbzUmXhFDCkJT8ihZA__cflsyT46yngpZD3XGnNnA3aRdQFDzbWwRxepm2etXd20JKsvNBxE_St2RThxSkMCOrIekYi13zCiNgrUdnd2DmfDEJOs3WWAJHvr5www7AXtMS2BhsuL3XRUvHUscWsVT38/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_13.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3589" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcF6UYCLk7MNg0pgIxvq60WlA5O4VLkDGr3lbzUmXhFDCkJT8ihZA__cflsyT46yngpZD3XGnNnA3aRdQFDzbWwRxepm2etXd20JKsvNBxE_St2RThxSkMCOrIekYi13zCiNgrUdnd2DmfDEJOs3WWAJHvr5www7AXtMS2BhsuL3XRUvHUscWsVT38/w266-h400/Hollar%20Doublet_13.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I think this look is...okay. </div><div>I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat.</div><div><br /></div><div>So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF!</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtbg4LolQsBLT0VUuTAu5IdJHepeuaIOkOg4gNS2XgTawCT574BRPcIqKZEB34Ss1UmBk7qKWr05HC98Y7FT_e_psgSfDTJ5sUHz1SbvOLrMP7Mi9ZzWLYboPPhWPE6d5xhoAqjJndBorihmnTL5pdO9skNzWmKcnYdWPSFvzqItCUJXAJRzvV3bD_/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtbg4LolQsBLT0VUuTAu5IdJHepeuaIOkOg4gNS2XgTawCT574BRPcIqKZEB34Ss1UmBk7qKWr05HC98Y7FT_e_psgSfDTJ5sUHz1SbvOLrMP7Mi9ZzWLYboPPhWPE6d5xhoAqjJndBorihmnTL5pdO9skNzWmKcnYdWPSFvzqItCUJXAJRzvV3bD_/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_14.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhESm_-hP1Dfvjg-P6zqSkdOY4WBubv0exKthl2jmw1Yfo43DbOWlwrDfeRxhcBRTrWAr0tsOVIBI_s0fkTC7VY70E3jGNph0B4FsSodF-NdBuJtjpD92x8FDCh5uKhzHSRJTWmFN6KZBt3shICSPS6dVuWp1h7cgZs22vO-fPwQTVwe9uoHDL_Vu-9/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_16.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhESm_-hP1Dfvjg-P6zqSkdOY4WBubv0exKthl2jmw1Yfo43DbOWlwrDfeRxhcBRTrWAr0tsOVIBI_s0fkTC7VY70E3jGNph0B4FsSodF-NdBuJtjpD92x8FDCh5uKhzHSRJTWmFN6KZBt3shICSPS6dVuWp1h7cgZs22vO-fPwQTVwe9uoHDL_Vu-9/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_16.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXXFM_qJwlDefVaMSr3cbIbOoWA5yOCU4IM6L6RWagLBQdhUMb5JEyxPX2k8j-5Bk2aEmZgwpcryewO-ZF0hEZrVL_VTvccJjMTWSL4bswM_yitO_migEXt5KdT6YA3ssz7C4k4OjSizRp4VxzIZvTxPwEyUIU9XHq_UiJrTByjevRfjyx9DWfBTdu/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_15A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXXFM_qJwlDefVaMSr3cbIbOoWA5yOCU4IM6L6RWagLBQdhUMb5JEyxPX2k8j-5Bk2aEmZgwpcryewO-ZF0hEZrVL_VTvccJjMTWSL4bswM_yitO_migEXt5KdT6YA3ssz7C4k4OjSizRp4VxzIZvTxPwEyUIU9XHq_UiJrTByjevRfjyx9DWfBTdu/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_15A.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6MiPSSss9Ac4Z93_5ieHDb17TxaJFV7nQwBdMJ1X9H2xVHYdQD068Qix-N6DF_V1bIFR0iAcwkcYSP_HKTR5OvIlBbyFX2yp6J6FJXWvwT3s7ppgQjj9821EuH3HdLyLcPew8cA841ibC-hsSXG95t-6_Dw4fAoFKj9zfsvPDk8fI2biILRzsiUKV/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_17.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6MiPSSss9Ac4Z93_5ieHDb17TxaJFV7nQwBdMJ1X9H2xVHYdQD068Qix-N6DF_V1bIFR0iAcwkcYSP_HKTR5OvIlBbyFX2yp6J6FJXWvwT3s7ppgQjj9821EuH3HdLyLcPew8cA841ibC-hsSXG95t-6_Dw4fAoFKj9zfsvPDk8fI2biILRzsiUKV/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_17.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is my largest ruff to date.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs_zZaUwPDsKekKUZ33g3jkLJfZ7UCmFqF3AQZDF1D1nbzJZDWAyaw053oOOr7vaR6m5iTyUe9i8JOGrvxyPVQZ4IpTHM_AHFaRp98lp9XQc6GDp4MxL-ALfIMVcvkHLtQHGoC82neK9aA2CHJ7Wrc926Q3UeyJJ8a-UHLnV3uG-d8JugddkT-J0pO/s3548/132FCACD-8037-44AC-929D-E6CA3EF4B3FA.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2801" data-original-width="3548" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs_zZaUwPDsKekKUZ33g3jkLJfZ7UCmFqF3AQZDF1D1nbzJZDWAyaw053oOOr7vaR6m5iTyUe9i8JOGrvxyPVQZ4IpTHM_AHFaRp98lp9XQc6GDp4MxL-ALfIMVcvkHLtQHGoC82neK9aA2CHJ7Wrc926Q3UeyJJ8a-UHLnV3uG-d8JugddkT-J0pO/s320/132FCACD-8037-44AC-929D-E6CA3EF4B3FA.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ruff mid-set</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Really, it's a beast. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/woodsholme">Woodsholme Handworks</a> on Etsy).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhINf1JendLiyL6CmEQ9Fh7sKg2JTTGA-HtJMxal57J7nILvJEmYgSNvS5qly1jfcVSAdNs_ruJhyCKxIjtTAqrqyzDW8yJS19_uG--nBcUsWXsRNUXZ9pifVtmJ2LYBjri6gLh4NXiN2y8GwO6RrpUDMOCWuiZxXQU_Ea1RLr2zdjm6hKafLtsLhOf/s3598/B5F1B4F9-5DCB-4008-BDF7-934E32F8F4F2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2915" data-original-width="3598" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhINf1JendLiyL6CmEQ9Fh7sKg2JTTGA-HtJMxal57J7nILvJEmYgSNvS5qly1jfcVSAdNs_ruJhyCKxIjtTAqrqyzDW8yJS19_uG--nBcUsWXsRNUXZ9pifVtmJ2LYBjri6gLh4NXiN2y8GwO6RrpUDMOCWuiZxXQU_Ea1RLr2zdjm6hKafLtsLhOf/s320/B5F1B4F9-5DCB-4008-BDF7-934E32F8F4F2.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDd6mFutYTxZy5ynpX0HmAsGoWgWGBQ6-aITpJZjwn4awkUZiedRl2pcvgjfg9JG-adTZp523QV4aYjhE5149AXCCZXN2cgSElPCpCMmahvzclBfKALvaEQC1bNOrcQ60RPRD0oC3nAlhL9-WhmAmT5tQqmRsYJaIdMSHA1D9mayTneS-02dLfcd-H/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3589" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDd6mFutYTxZy5ynpX0HmAsGoWgWGBQ6-aITpJZjwn4awkUZiedRl2pcvgjfg9JG-adTZp523QV4aYjhE5149AXCCZXN2cgSElPCpCMmahvzclBfKALvaEQC1bNOrcQ60RPRD0oC3nAlhL9-WhmAmT5tQqmRsYJaIdMSHA1D9mayTneS-02dLfcd-H/w266-h400/Hollar%20Doublet_18.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....<i>result</i>? I guess?)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Okay! Ditch the apron! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">How about a big hat?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizXqJJBiHTIpq2UtJwt-9Hhg8hgJdJ82bj02EmFBM-7T3bNIbB67d71LSnCkz36GsdKYYX1sqlRMQBoHLZMfAVvwuCCadydK-m2oTz_q4cv3tUb5dAG5ByH17Rsjo0JhmilahQHYqKHNFmk9BcRkLRjIGmmPik_SuBdqx8veXmFDZbBmySw16agq2G/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_19.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizXqJJBiHTIpq2UtJwt-9Hhg8hgJdJ82bj02EmFBM-7T3bNIbB67d71LSnCkz36GsdKYYX1sqlRMQBoHLZMfAVvwuCCadydK-m2oTz_q4cv3tUb5dAG5ByH17Rsjo0JhmilahQHYqKHNFmk9BcRkLRjIGmmPik_SuBdqx8veXmFDZbBmySw16agq2G/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_19.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YLCsbLJrPau4CqEUKGqw-WnlYRzXpZ_Ayyp8HU7xS4yhYSzjUwrDkqgeXKYxGAJdGT5B8c5fp0JMrUpamnz3tB_oLRvVF0ZnI5yoUcwj7yD3thdLU_l-JKq2i1SAHe5QdUNa7xMyKV4brS4V4NULTYg5bGonzwNpJjnncAGmlPwBtWwDnJU5XOTO/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YLCsbLJrPau4CqEUKGqw-WnlYRzXpZ_Ayyp8HU7xS4yhYSzjUwrDkqgeXKYxGAJdGT5B8c5fp0JMrUpamnz3tB_oLRvVF0ZnI5yoUcwj7yD3thdLU_l-JKq2i1SAHe5QdUNa7xMyKV4brS4V4NULTYg5bGonzwNpJjnncAGmlPwBtWwDnJU5XOTO/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_20.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by <a href="https://www.facebook.com/brencklehats/">M. Brenckle, Hatter</a> and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd07LhAWhggJCCvWGZ84eTKfran7-iXD8vpf0Cvz-W2P8p_3j_q5GOTnVVKODDuWdRVFVUPI0wxxxJctnpnbs0g7UI1t9L_6KulAE7_iToYEPJH1xn_w42pjiEGCF0Pi46pEGpJ4Oc7NSsLwBpUCMuOOyPCDXVjM_a63ercYxHmVtIS7QQsBloAnqn/s3186/F7BA3E11-EE88-4102-9C74-4611161D4FF3.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3186" data-original-width="2737" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd07LhAWhggJCCvWGZ84eTKfran7-iXD8vpf0Cvz-W2P8p_3j_q5GOTnVVKODDuWdRVFVUPI0wxxxJctnpnbs0g7UI1t9L_6KulAE7_iToYEPJH1xn_w42pjiEGCF0Pi46pEGpJ4Oc7NSsLwBpUCMuOOyPCDXVjM_a63ercYxHmVtIS7QQsBloAnqn/s320/F7BA3E11-EE88-4102-9C74-4611161D4FF3.jpeg" width="275" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbs-BIJDNqE5n_PfrhLnoGSsZfMW693a-kXSsvDUV1vEaCWk6lQhmG0zAf9UlCZrbIKEjPvY2mW-aNWhjk2VWPx1gkq92dXNWZAmoyitvD7ThbV3Re4pCF_B6F-dtE3YWBwHubzszT5-hnNJaRKlut17_eaqXaWFcTKTrDO0Ij9C28YDAeiQbQuXw/s3265/AEB7A559-995F-4655-9D62-05BFE9576B75.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3265" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbs-BIJDNqE5n_PfrhLnoGSsZfMW693a-kXSsvDUV1vEaCWk6lQhmG0zAf9UlCZrbIKEjPvY2mW-aNWhjk2VWPx1gkq92dXNWZAmoyitvD7ThbV3Re4pCF_B6F-dtE3YWBwHubzszT5-hnNJaRKlut17_eaqXaWFcTKTrDO0Ij9C28YDAeiQbQuXw/s320/AEB7A559-995F-4655-9D62-05BFE9576B75.jpeg" width="296" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>You know me! Love the crazy hats! </div><div>But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up...</div><div><br /></div><div>Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2019/07/rust-waistcoat.html">rust waistcoat</a> project.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi430BHZY6Am1hSjqOqLjmNTc4BjmdS02UUBErEDCgf7Vmm3bwm0nISTo0C378q1ez7h_6Lfcwy7TOq_Qh4y0gLoQHy1xkmUwQmzTn6s_R35dhR1xaipqN229MMZYIRauciToiYLXaQcdmDRKqK7dbnUb1Y1HOIkv0NEOPjqSEFjl1IUMq3clNgZyCO/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_21.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi430BHZY6Am1hSjqOqLjmNTc4BjmdS02UUBErEDCgf7Vmm3bwm0nISTo0C378q1ez7h_6Lfcwy7TOq_Qh4y0gLoQHy1xkmUwQmzTn6s_R35dhR1xaipqN229MMZYIRauciToiYLXaQcdmDRKqK7dbnUb1Y1HOIkv0NEOPjqSEFjl1IUMq3clNgZyCO/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_21.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ7gvmsVQX5A5PplZgN_yUB4JAc_LBpW5jX_t84L1hIFH9MoLuMpRBJQhXBamGYo9w_3p2jAvwmUtVMdI7_1_KA-mQ-vv3LYsacj_Jz3-VCd-Gcx5V0fkXDiHBc69P-1f0VUNDVvkQUDIUCcsqhdW19ttEVkNn1cEO6fwDqOGYGWd_lde3r0zf9eLa/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_22.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ7gvmsVQX5A5PplZgN_yUB4JAc_LBpW5jX_t84L1hIFH9MoLuMpRBJQhXBamGYo9w_3p2jAvwmUtVMdI7_1_KA-mQ-vv3LYsacj_Jz3-VCd-Gcx5V0fkXDiHBc69P-1f0VUNDVvkQUDIUCcsqhdW19ttEVkNn1cEO6fwDqOGYGWd_lde3r0zf9eLa/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_22.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ED6fkJ2yeiMRptIQXuF6KaDuWKFjimF3r8DSuUA89H9xIsNi4eKlZ5ClMk6-L_oS3Niy0eYs2BzL-yyb51Q8am8MR8q_je6FabvC72Og2656Ri4lWbA0bm--ns1T2nwXOoGTdasZ_nZCqyA5UtAB_NdIxcDwhmpOmAXzDSFfglCHYCf5xA65nsyw/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_23.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ED6fkJ2yeiMRptIQXuF6KaDuWKFjimF3r8DSuUA89H9xIsNi4eKlZ5ClMk6-L_oS3Niy0eYs2BzL-yyb51Q8am8MR8q_je6FabvC72Og2656Ri4lWbA0bm--ns1T2nwXOoGTdasZ_nZCqyA5UtAB_NdIxcDwhmpOmAXzDSFfglCHYCf5xA65nsyw/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_23.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcq3pyDm_ZFJ-rbWXTuTxK2VICaBLgXbYxHADy-9-3Lnkwu4K4BeibC-zFiw5A4__Pt-KgiAPh-zGc3HY05aPZPspStGgOIpR7M4lqWVQZlfMoD-ROTpscCmh94lfJorR7ec8OTH5tAzG3nVvlD-zHnrNCX_r18J2T1ab38TjWigPp47L3hDeZbYH-/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_25.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcq3pyDm_ZFJ-rbWXTuTxK2VICaBLgXbYxHADy-9-3Lnkwu4K4BeibC-zFiw5A4__Pt-KgiAPh-zGc3HY05aPZPspStGgOIpR7M4lqWVQZlfMoD-ROTpscCmh94lfJorR7ec8OTH5tAzG3nVvlD-zHnrNCX_r18J2T1ab38TjWigPp47L3hDeZbYH-/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_25.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihRjlcmWKHJpQP-hjPKO6LzzLYfvrJ7PkDyltNnYkrTJbvsIHlv_ZJ_zqpvKbWDlUSEdNXjrX0HlHF8QbwKmR5CzjLwNDbCzjDbbNXiBxhvfH91AmySpvlSKOtDmpOF6rb5mbdckP1-h433X2ArR_H4AyUpL3DIzio0bjNb5OxKAD9npY9lMQtnPTR/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_24.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihRjlcmWKHJpQP-hjPKO6LzzLYfvrJ7PkDyltNnYkrTJbvsIHlv_ZJ_zqpvKbWDlUSEdNXjrX0HlHF8QbwKmR5CzjLwNDbCzjDbbNXiBxhvfH91AmySpvlSKOtDmpOF6rb5mbdckP1-h433X2ArR_H4AyUpL3DIzio0bjNb5OxKAD9npY9lMQtnPTR/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_24.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgici0l0qIjWwraUAQNY6qMOc2ioJeZ-U5qy8jjMvpMt-QKtS_2qQzV7IBwOmI4dEhIPBQa27cdPMcZ3V4r6rVbJ1JaWiKRe3YB6Fx1_mSfb8kLLdMxZG_ZF4mpVkEQhwntmS8-2_n4nf0smTV_OtrBdcsybiEcol3P6wXJCEX6vVvLg012ujqrDW3Q/s5400/Hollar%20Doublet_26.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5400" data-original-width="3450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgici0l0qIjWwraUAQNY6qMOc2ioJeZ-U5qy8jjMvpMt-QKtS_2qQzV7IBwOmI4dEhIPBQa27cdPMcZ3V4r6rVbJ1JaWiKRe3YB6Fx1_mSfb8kLLdMxZG_ZF4mpVkEQhwntmS8-2_n4nf0smTV_OtrBdcsybiEcol3P6wXJCEX6vVvLg012ujqrDW3Q/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_26.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I <i>REALLY</i> like this look. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It might be my favourite so far.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Also making appearance is another capotain hat by <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/ThimblebeeMillinery">Timblebee Millinery</a>, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIw9AOCtuysLXOsQlblNF2xOvuyx_mvu1awxMZSR8bIexZR7EFkxBaTj1QIWZf0iAhM2hA4Md0Yb3Oxt_n14OEDcFlOuHVei9y0v1hJ_YFFLdSybfTorbLPWVqiPUeYbl1VzFIbzmoaY_aC0YPSNZBnGdiY_b34iAL4Ov_u17NuTa4RL6kN99leLDR/s4032/93AF7271-4B0E-4AFF-B2C6-86F9A16D8D91.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIw9AOCtuysLXOsQlblNF2xOvuyx_mvu1awxMZSR8bIexZR7EFkxBaTj1QIWZf0iAhM2hA4Md0Yb3Oxt_n14OEDcFlOuHVei9y0v1hJ_YFFLdSybfTorbLPWVqiPUeYbl1VzFIbzmoaY_aC0YPSNZBnGdiY_b34iAL4Ov_u17NuTa4RL6kN99leLDR/s320/93AF7271-4B0E-4AFF-B2C6-86F9A16D8D91.jpeg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6sOwr7jetTRqU_OW0onnQB5wnelLgp5Vnw3_p-ui0EghikQUjGtdxmwRLTE_y8OY1Sq_MJu1on-S0RfCzc6JgKLpMHI-CtwpnQMqMOD6ABwiiHjC-37TjvvxZpbyJ2Rqyl-lzxQYxt2RXvrvo079YA1vWKu7cUj5x9vh7qXBhqEKJyjA2M3Z37tEq/s3993/7391FEBA-18A6-47B2-9DF6-3BB9FF2A4635.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3993" data-original-width="2702" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6sOwr7jetTRqU_OW0onnQB5wnelLgp5Vnw3_p-ui0EghikQUjGtdxmwRLTE_y8OY1Sq_MJu1on-S0RfCzc6JgKLpMHI-CtwpnQMqMOD6ABwiiHjC-37TjvvxZpbyJ2Rqyl-lzxQYxt2RXvrvo079YA1vWKu7cUj5x9vh7qXBhqEKJyjA2M3Z37tEq/s320/7391FEBA-18A6-47B2-9DF6-3BB9FF2A4635.jpeg" width="217" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Right. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEShoKpreXUpICUy3dJMYoYDYRYZT3An2SnrOKFp6Sn7nwCqFBmGcRi22dzVzcnHwdc1r3IWIoQaV4WXo8ftuqm2PoVz4AlnSdeJs-Ojg0IzwNcrbilBYt7NDWEA7-2Gf2N1UxaP3SG_7LJZj4eCTOQf0n26d99uE2Ul9rDAnMR9IMXPQLM2GgCC2/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_27.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEShoKpreXUpICUy3dJMYoYDYRYZT3An2SnrOKFp6Sn7nwCqFBmGcRi22dzVzcnHwdc1r3IWIoQaV4WXo8ftuqm2PoVz4AlnSdeJs-Ojg0IzwNcrbilBYt7NDWEA7-2Gf2N1UxaP3SG_7LJZj4eCTOQf0n26d99uE2Ul9rDAnMR9IMXPQLM2GgCC2/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_27.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqf8krslkM9ZaH4oA0j225JYnxjB1ksiErIwD2hNh8Pee6iBe5ShnjrqL8_qmMsXp9Tfo2lxEXbLeD8YhdlTZ2iiQ8axVy4oSuXaWi9257ulRTnTxf10onJN0PGsn6gqTStFIKPMnaF6EJ2__EyoBu4U0MqtH_9GjfXVNwIp70-AvrbryihT5EZhH4/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_31.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqf8krslkM9ZaH4oA0j225JYnxjB1ksiErIwD2hNh8Pee6iBe5ShnjrqL8_qmMsXp9Tfo2lxEXbLeD8YhdlTZ2iiQ8axVy4oSuXaWi9257ulRTnTxf10onJN0PGsn6gqTStFIKPMnaF6EJ2__EyoBu4U0MqtH_9GjfXVNwIp70-AvrbryihT5EZhH4/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_31.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwbvMq7djTOjW37HrmiJM5fIL5YR3tS3q0bnVxW-4pqCHHrk8-8Uh7hs8z6yc52SdcjaV2eJtTujXf1cMsqBa_ark9rmU3qX_4Ldo4_wrUsXqpCDlpXzw7REoPHGp2PIwa2vQo7O3Pd9d-MIALsTDyeFUZ70-R6qCzj2sVOgMgqrYQRLZJKnqG8g7/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_32.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwbvMq7djTOjW37HrmiJM5fIL5YR3tS3q0bnVxW-4pqCHHrk8-8Uh7hs8z6yc52SdcjaV2eJtTujXf1cMsqBa_ark9rmU3qX_4Ldo4_wrUsXqpCDlpXzw7REoPHGp2PIwa2vQo7O3Pd9d-MIALsTDyeFUZ70-R6qCzj2sVOgMgqrYQRLZJKnqG8g7/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_32.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRmA_W_aANgM_YnSpgPrTJ1qU-Xl47pYQPWiN1zUkwCsazc1snmjGrha2VEXnmKo7PUWzOMWNcwNNlQWlKyXgwE5i0aRzEYau-IkKZ3eFNA0t74OT8QgQW44oEXlKfQm5Azc9m4dZIcIC2rYb8l1LRNYAX45cpogSRXv1gCA_OT_M5f496-YgXRjl1/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_30.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRmA_W_aANgM_YnSpgPrTJ1qU-Xl47pYQPWiN1zUkwCsazc1snmjGrha2VEXnmKo7PUWzOMWNcwNNlQWlKyXgwE5i0aRzEYau-IkKZ3eFNA0t74OT8QgQW44oEXlKfQm5Azc9m4dZIcIC2rYb8l1LRNYAX45cpogSRXv1gCA_OT_M5f496-YgXRjl1/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_30.jpg" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJonvVbCPBaun5fPQDyKll5ZgbJbePDwYSUbyj3zBGvuO8otHZygoPfjKVn_Bv2d1itSZj7dJRnrHJN7q9-anZP3Q1GkSVC0Ut3i5X-3JxMA-XmLkhPsAN7B8juybFcHk3anu6dPx1OSTDUyrC2wjRrYuODW5NLeuOsHW1ZC6e-RrSulivLPCaBbPI/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_28.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJonvVbCPBaun5fPQDyKll5ZgbJbePDwYSUbyj3zBGvuO8otHZygoPfjKVn_Bv2d1itSZj7dJRnrHJN7q9-anZP3Q1GkSVC0Ut3i5X-3JxMA-XmLkhPsAN7B8juybFcHk3anu6dPx1OSTDUyrC2wjRrYuODW5NLeuOsHW1ZC6e-RrSulivLPCaBbPI/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_28.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSL0HxkpdN1R3QRLqc2cwB8sgGRp_11Os7Yg96gGJSfrI6Z6SE6cv7swsSpuIBymFrV70xvLYuewZM3TSPNYcxgv_O0xbH8IAeNhXs3i4Avu-KL2wF6dPWDMkMWEMVS_pkzfqn2ONRIaHaL2KprABMwY0cuS2HMi_ozdM9MLINjGL6g7f8GENPrQGF/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_33.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSL0HxkpdN1R3QRLqc2cwB8sgGRp_11Os7Yg96gGJSfrI6Z6SE6cv7swsSpuIBymFrV70xvLYuewZM3TSPNYcxgv_O0xbH8IAeNhXs3i4Avu-KL2wF6dPWDMkMWEMVS_pkzfqn2ONRIaHaL2KprABMwY0cuS2HMi_ozdM9MLINjGL6g7f8GENPrQGF/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_33.jpg" width="205" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div>And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat!</div><div>(originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2017/01/petticoat-bodies.html">petticoat bodies</a>, but now just a skirt)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwSOSdWBoHEEcfOx6N83tXmUCnDjRO7YeGueEAOzHaWo3UANdVWU7X-T3B-p9C4zeJqOgtcuF9EzhExpGed06Ab8nLaPAKpM6ZL4S28wfnbxY1APOkdkCIbqVYzgAGc7J9P773S7zfhPmh_nWKpppf3sQy_7N7j2VUPTLZhewVh8oViXlQJIJRQqSW/s2048/Petticoat%20Bodies_02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1088" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwSOSdWBoHEEcfOx6N83tXmUCnDjRO7YeGueEAOzHaWo3UANdVWU7X-T3B-p9C4zeJqOgtcuF9EzhExpGed06Ab8nLaPAKpM6ZL4S28wfnbxY1APOkdkCIbqVYzgAGc7J9P773S7zfhPmh_nWKpppf3sQy_7N7j2VUPTLZhewVh8oViXlQJIJRQqSW/w213-h400/Petticoat%20Bodies_02.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0AcQUrKa3X0HucHh5Kmfq7qfLb_BM5n9la6hjfVStOrTniNgpB8Xv4iPTs2QWH-UNWLdinNo4fydDhNrKM2VsQyvHEIoj__qQ-SOHs_Xvzo8GqDDyI5X11CDpNtssqV9DWGlDDBq2M7SlKI8ogFnZ5r6m6rmrbMijNV5a8F0aG-sXlUZHPj3gkPF1/s5615/Hollar%20Doublet_29.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5615" data-original-width="3589" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0AcQUrKa3X0HucHh5Kmfq7qfLb_BM5n9la6hjfVStOrTniNgpB8Xv4iPTs2QWH-UNWLdinNo4fydDhNrKM2VsQyvHEIoj__qQ-SOHs_Xvzo8GqDDyI5X11CDpNtssqV9DWGlDDBq2M7SlKI8ogFnZ5r6m6rmrbMijNV5a8F0aG-sXlUZHPj3gkPF1/w256-h400/Hollar%20Doublet_29.jpg" width="256" /></a></div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This last look is probably my favourite. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwStU025WXeKKt5b5bKviTmheKg8EEoAxUT1Dk0PLNCuxllDL_SE-qxG43qVtAM6B0f_A89_SQ-bT5jKRm1IPz6tWwro-2O4HWhXfdKkQ1iHAQcapS4Z91851Pn5tqpzWgt2kayAQTuj7TtaSov7A-02DvEyp78OjOFGT-uTeujqBDyaKl8cbBJhoH/s2948/Hollar_compare%20copy5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2320" data-original-width="2948" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwStU025WXeKKt5b5bKviTmheKg8EEoAxUT1Dk0PLNCuxllDL_SE-qxG43qVtAM6B0f_A89_SQ-bT5jKRm1IPz6tWwro-2O4HWhXfdKkQ1iHAQcapS4Z91851Pn5tqpzWgt2kayAQTuj7TtaSov7A-02DvEyp78OjOFGT-uTeujqBDyaKl8cbBJhoH/w400-h315/Hollar_compare%20copy5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Okay! That's it! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-55261704203229039872023-02-25T17:38:00.005-08:002024-02-15T09:00:02.710-08:00Mustard Brown Doublet<p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDssUxsRBTloIBACLcf9niuxLNoEIaDgGo30KQFsMULkDhbWvTeyX9XDVavHtti1yPD1P3G_Wki7ufNPmtETwGglzl1kuoS0PyK_I1Uoe3N1PRHgFE92Yvprp49WCtB-AEHlEmAcvFSu2O3T_L1pyN4pR5sYewlqjh5xhtb5_EhRugxydfPkBq7DH/s4320/Hollar%20Doublet_01A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2880" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDssUxsRBTloIBACLcf9niuxLNoEIaDgGo30KQFsMULkDhbWvTeyX9XDVavHtti1yPD1P3G_Wki7ufNPmtETwGglzl1kuoS0PyK_I1Uoe3N1PRHgFE92Yvprp49WCtB-AEHlEmAcvFSu2O3T_L1pyN4pR5sYewlqjh5xhtb5_EhRugxydfPkBq7DH/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_01A.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHS0JRXaoaPEgpylqNGEI8lrpAcYCjISEpnJIKcFGhUOwyz34fRgmL_gHIz0eve8ecfP2N5bDRg-fExbGwBWrVPZP-XHv5QU1aGVKH7BkiFL2avKgVG_ozXLmsVXUXWtdd5-QsoQtyjmOR-1WlCGzrLbZeHerAigLcOXv0ONK-ALdKmRyMjabW7vUh/s4320/Hollar%20Doublet_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2880" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHS0JRXaoaPEgpylqNGEI8lrpAcYCjISEpnJIKcFGhUOwyz34fRgmL_gHIz0eve8ecfP2N5bDRg-fExbGwBWrVPZP-XHv5QU1aGVKH7BkiFL2avKgVG_ozXLmsVXUXWtdd5-QsoQtyjmOR-1WlCGzrLbZeHerAigLcOXv0ONK-ALdKmRyMjabW7vUh/s320/Hollar%20Doublet_03.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div><div>(NOTE: This project was started back in early 2020 and was finished at some point in 2022. Trying to piece together the process 3 years later has been...<i>interesting</i>. So I apologize in advance if this whole post reads like a fever dream.)</div><div><br /></div><div>So...</div><div>Despite this being my first attempt and more complicated tailoring techniques, I have to say that this project orginally started as a bit of a "throw away".</div><div><br /></div><div>I really wanted to learn to use <a href="https://themodernmaker.net/">The Modern Maker</a> proportional drafting system by Mathew Gnagy and decided to whip up a glorified mockup in scrap fabric (with mostly machine sewing). </div><div>Basically, something I could wear but not spend too much time on. </div><div><br /></div><div>I should have known by now that down and dirty is not how I work! </div><div>(Maybe one day I'll reach the point where I only do 2 or 3 mock-ups before cutting my fabric, but that is not this day)</div><div><br /></div><div>Anyway...</div><div><br /></div><div>I had some dark mustard/brown/green wool (I still can't figure out what colour it is) left over from my waistcoat project from a few years ago. </div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnf_-z3Lr0H70ylfmYCN1zjil516kFWs7EdyyGZqCZ3_nMiRhqhvOxbYrugv48E4BBfn3SDLJNFB6ylU2a-dLsoapHTi8EkgNhsomwDYQaojNFmFhh7zEoKuYEJckRfsCpWQQ95d6PvS7DU4KO9SoiXOnGOIOLqERXK29dKaZWYLmtGOWhNFT6izk-/s2048/Crowd_01E.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1166" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnf_-z3Lr0H70ylfmYCN1zjil516kFWs7EdyyGZqCZ3_nMiRhqhvOxbYrugv48E4BBfn3SDLJNFB6ylU2a-dLsoapHTi8EkgNhsomwDYQaojNFmFhh7zEoKuYEJckRfsCpWQQ95d6PvS7DU4KO9SoiXOnGOIOLqERXK29dKaZWYLmtGOWhNFT6izk-/w114-h200/Crowd_01E.jpg" width="114" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigbFKFqS2nJVrFKJkvFjkHC9Dbk7wj7etci7OtejodU9-lxPOUqwCw8_kSFF0PePf8eRu3dUVX-sczzUu8FN3B_DmPj2QtL5N_nz5tNsM8zeUWQQ95JD5grp8qYzpHip3IDjzw5JYkNfk3ZD6UJKdAhcuzG938v4vJwDgzNUE6JUkfE1JteM0snSiq/s2048/Crowd_02a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1175" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigbFKFqS2nJVrFKJkvFjkHC9Dbk7wj7etci7OtejodU9-lxPOUqwCw8_kSFF0PePf8eRu3dUVX-sczzUu8FN3B_DmPj2QtL5N_nz5tNsM8zeUWQQ95JD5grp8qYzpHip3IDjzw5JYkNfk3ZD6UJKdAhcuzG938v4vJwDgzNUE6JUkfE1JteM0snSiq/w115-h200/Crowd_02a.jpg" width="115" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAUWJ7J97my7WT8-3kpYD_hv_Rnxp_i5qbbvBRlIT_BcgoX5zcEPo7yxH4Z7l_SptlvU6-q5qV7Iqbs5iUFwyTytOaO7FqwqF31HheJ76OG_cSdzgTkUK-nTEJv4raao1bOYWfT4N4tKXoa-JoKpu9vq9EfB9XNAm62E9j2zjBIOzH56L4MYVu4xQa/s2048/Crowd_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1175" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAUWJ7J97my7WT8-3kpYD_hv_Rnxp_i5qbbvBRlIT_BcgoX5zcEPo7yxH4Z7l_SptlvU6-q5qV7Iqbs5iUFwyTytOaO7FqwqF31HheJ76OG_cSdzgTkUK-nTEJv4raao1bOYWfT4N4tKXoa-JoKpu9vq9EfB9XNAm62E9j2zjBIOzH56L4MYVu4xQa/w115-h200/Crowd_03.jpg" width="115" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div><div>I decided to make a high-necked doublet to match, trimmed in the same black worsted wool tape.</div><div><br /></div><div>Because of the multiple guards on the petticoat, I aim for a slightly later silhouette. But really at this point I was focusing more on getting a handle on the construction and not paying too much attention to any particular decade or style. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPoSi_E8WVowYzz_zMJFaU8ROxpQ6SoLemnYjCjlel3HJVLfyJ-U_1bjc1kdl3bfFtqE1dHqFunuYzm_cLWVueN1L1mi4cv2n5iUgSmJ5BlC6cJ8CpfA0MF0kToQOw--YtBOXxSd_pBvbVKtKgcBkFF1Hc7F921XwgwdwMevg0qTOaSTsvruAq_fEJ/s2194/09C4EF62-4B8A-410D-AFB2-0E98A85325D8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2194" data-original-width="1565" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPoSi_E8WVowYzz_zMJFaU8ROxpQ6SoLemnYjCjlel3HJVLfyJ-U_1bjc1kdl3bfFtqE1dHqFunuYzm_cLWVueN1L1mi4cv2n5iUgSmJ5BlC6cJ8CpfA0MF0kToQOw--YtBOXxSd_pBvbVKtKgcBkFF1Hc7F921XwgwdwMevg0qTOaSTsvruAq_fEJ/w143-h200/09C4EF62-4B8A-410D-AFB2-0E98A85325D8.jpeg" width="143" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj674irHMx-bd5-ffyeQbuvWNMUUz3lYj4CkgYmwdm-c9od9HMAmzSCAIBDxHcf-tfgEswgQdkSWB6xFkx9PEAu294iZsibxoSdkLLGFd9L-3uozlbgF20lEVIMBSMHJIQ1QsBq9IwRYdETlgk35vquoLqZHQK8QUWs_bTGxi8Qs6nczs3K3IUAkFmL/s2194/5BAA7D3C-58AF-4B70-BBBA-D8614602E1F2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2194" data-original-width="1565" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj674irHMx-bd5-ffyeQbuvWNMUUz3lYj4CkgYmwdm-c9od9HMAmzSCAIBDxHcf-tfgEswgQdkSWB6xFkx9PEAu294iZsibxoSdkLLGFd9L-3uozlbgF20lEVIMBSMHJIQ1QsBq9IwRYdETlgk35vquoLqZHQK8QUWs_bTGxi8Qs6nczs3K3IUAkFmL/w143-h200/5BAA7D3C-58AF-4B70-BBBA-D8614602E1F2.jpeg" width="143" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF0NQCon3nflQB5MIuDfNjGV2_zgvJoVkQzUgh8ImMwyhL6nCkwPIH2YCG82MV2gwTXJkKGT3eGqUFKQ0hPiTZ9IOgvJhGjRSkq7Q__LkZ7RrXtehbt6RREQIrThZcIzDfOdo7tJocyhpJ7mHaaNSEoC6P2ykRhAWkwT_IEwqCg30fYk9FxmGA-q7X/s2194/54E3AE95-4968-4946-A5F6-9E3DF638CC40.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2194" data-original-width="1565" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF0NQCon3nflQB5MIuDfNjGV2_zgvJoVkQzUgh8ImMwyhL6nCkwPIH2YCG82MV2gwTXJkKGT3eGqUFKQ0hPiTZ9IOgvJhGjRSkq7Q__LkZ7RrXtehbt6RREQIrThZcIzDfOdo7tJocyhpJ7mHaaNSEoC6P2ykRhAWkwT_IEwqCg30fYk9FxmGA-q7X/w143-h200/54E3AE95-4968-4946-A5F6-9E3DF638CC40.jpeg" width="143" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>The result is a look that I feel is a bit of a hodge-podge and doesn't really resemble any of my inspiration images.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL7wLQx6QNIQWlTChPbQTRRkGmpyYeRZifThNH725APPWgOjwshL13UbMK6i5qk2sgmnx2ayziRoybz087ABLoIOkmRfcuIR5aa618I7HfjkF0hEorSxjKGHufqs9ExKzie6sCoSM_YPjUX1Z6Ytl0D9QP8hVW-pCjrjuFwKGg7_IGAo28fNBNgzz_/s626/1050A787-7BA1-47ED-9BEF-A5051B8A091E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="626" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL7wLQx6QNIQWlTChPbQTRRkGmpyYeRZifThNH725APPWgOjwshL13UbMK6i5qk2sgmnx2ayziRoybz087ABLoIOkmRfcuIR5aa618I7HfjkF0hEorSxjKGHufqs9ExKzie6sCoSM_YPjUX1Z6Ytl0D9QP8hVW-pCjrjuFwKGg7_IGAo28fNBNgzz_/w200-h153/1050A787-7BA1-47ED-9BEF-A5051B8A091E.jpeg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvBm2FHtIKacQkl0n9pxXcvMrcf1l7aNEPvUCS58MPD3RHzCTxCWe9_XfWTD-l9esEUsIcl8lZak9kTzFkRDOibF8V8F6qicAY3w0ZVVf98inCWwe6iT1CBfYLoh79969f3sJhzh271H5J177lQIOn2rcyCXtHzjRGgVYi7gXN2Mv5f5erntSXFE48/s1185/48FB2FB1-EF3C-4ED1-90BB-99B658D66009.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="912" data-original-width="1185" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvBm2FHtIKacQkl0n9pxXcvMrcf1l7aNEPvUCS58MPD3RHzCTxCWe9_XfWTD-l9esEUsIcl8lZak9kTzFkRDOibF8V8F6qicAY3w0ZVVf98inCWwe6iT1CBfYLoh79969f3sJhzh271H5J177lQIOn2rcyCXtHzjRGgVYi7gXN2Mv5f5erntSXFE48/w200-h154/48FB2FB1-EF3C-4ED1-90BB-99B658D66009.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsa83YDOgUFrNf8Hs9zAb5LMw17B7O35Ag7URbDFCkpFIRCpusMFdC7bY0CXKmdT-iS1xGCNB9fsnKxJUlUYAz3g5QlqJR5tonI3alIVsvOb9NFVWiLGunUCUCVK5wWaTD4Le6qqezDEqpiH4zuiwiLnBGamccHD5_6M19AOV94ddyj5EydG-0yvxm/s1200/BE40DB15-DD79-4498-8A86-0F7188907849.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="946" data-original-width="1200" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsa83YDOgUFrNf8Hs9zAb5LMw17B7O35Ag7URbDFCkpFIRCpusMFdC7bY0CXKmdT-iS1xGCNB9fsnKxJUlUYAz3g5QlqJR5tonI3alIVsvOb9NFVWiLGunUCUCVK5wWaTD4Le6qqezDEqpiH4zuiwiLnBGamccHD5_6M19AOV94ddyj5EydG-0yvxm/s320/BE40DB15-DD79-4498-8A86-0F7188907849.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Oh, well! No time two dwell on trivial things like "historical fidelity" and "accuracy". Humbug, I say!! I am sure this will in no way come back to bite me in the ass later!</div><div>On to the construction!</div><div><br /></div><div>Using the proportional <i>bara</i> method outlined 'The Modern Maker Vol.2' (in which a pattern in created using custom tapes) I started on a muslin.</div><div>I won't go in depth on how to use this system, mostly because I found I only understood it myself in the doing of it and doubt I could explain it clearly if I tried.</div><div>Suffice to say, I<i> highly</i> recommend Mathew's books and accompanying video tutorials in his <a href="https://www.youtube.com/@themodernmakermathewgnagy215">YouTube page</a>. This method might seem daunting, but I promise Mathew makes it extremely accessible, even to self taught sewists like me. (Really, there's no reason to read past this point. Just go watch the videos!)</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY78viHG96f5E0QAfq_WjnqQnMjs0znxQW0xoGA7E0KeRikaMUfQ4HTYA02-IUzzfFSbDRg3o8YowyZtr2C80w7rW95lqhfvLvHielxOpZahm-mBw9RsuqREf_3-z4-X8QQNEUJ3yoCMKAwqUBM8j7SdiCbxaHN-nyI5AKh69kDZA_oG92_BKCyVc1/s1360/718AwqoEOrL.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1360" data-original-width="1051" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY78viHG96f5E0QAfq_WjnqQnMjs0znxQW0xoGA7E0KeRikaMUfQ4HTYA02-IUzzfFSbDRg3o8YowyZtr2C80w7rW95lqhfvLvHielxOpZahm-mBw9RsuqREf_3-z4-X8QQNEUJ3yoCMKAwqUBM8j7SdiCbxaHN-nyI5AKh69kDZA_oG92_BKCyVc1/s320/718AwqoEOrL.jpg" width="247" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Although I wanted to start with a straight front doublet (reasoning the closures would be easier to manage), the rigid 'boob shelf' created by my bodies/stays made that unfeasible, so I opted for a curved front style instead.</div><div><br /></div><div>I have to say that the first mockup went together surprisingly well!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG6X1CGywGC99O41U0p33YmiCNoSU5RVfYzDwvHNkzRpZyyneMdXBCYiGWIT8ayrhXyfZy9lyZoYPG7VqYicIQoG8iODMA9Cmq33N_JxoSjUKwgfODacExYHPxUzmf1QpKqkadUp7SipaFkDPm_62dbxe5318JBtqLWM8vA2cvkHrMK0CsKg5AxFFQ/s2672/8A5580D2-CD63-4F96-A4CE-59E6FE1E0871.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2672" data-original-width="1730" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG6X1CGywGC99O41U0p33YmiCNoSU5RVfYzDwvHNkzRpZyyneMdXBCYiGWIT8ayrhXyfZy9lyZoYPG7VqYicIQoG8iODMA9Cmq33N_JxoSjUKwgfODacExYHPxUzmf1QpKqkadUp7SipaFkDPm_62dbxe5318JBtqLWM8vA2cvkHrMK0CsKg5AxFFQ/s320/8A5580D2-CD63-4F96-A4CE-59E6FE1E0871.jpeg" width="207" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi3K9RmOcG5juAT0rrRmy_2Lk0yip8w3xXGzEaAVXG-0NkSvYVwvC3HX3fR4Zdog8BJ4cQ8PjZynpk_XbwzSXuX77fyFbMTJwTURHNQNhPxRHeJlll4_gsV4PW5mMKF6CRv88UvOUtqYPNjBUbQENNlqHbcSvaDspWp8dtUAyd9WyZ4hk7bXcK9UPP/s2789/09FA7859-AC83-4A6E-B6DF-E93D71E30AE4.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2789" data-original-width="1602" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi3K9RmOcG5juAT0rrRmy_2Lk0yip8w3xXGzEaAVXG-0NkSvYVwvC3HX3fR4Zdog8BJ4cQ8PjZynpk_XbwzSXuX77fyFbMTJwTURHNQNhPxRHeJlll4_gsV4PW5mMKF6CRv88UvOUtqYPNjBUbQENNlqHbcSvaDspWp8dtUAyd9WyZ4hk7bXcK9UPP/s320/09FA7859-AC83-4A6E-B6DF-E93D71E30AE4.jpeg" width="184" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKK626M_r2WSYh6sVUzpxsrmlUVgA1aqQOhRgS2r6udXmYpBMCfOJzWH8IBjPruP3TKxpynb2kd8CQxKkEtrkA71iDMEMJNdg_yaWkG5CskUegR25p2muaHkuzYQ1h-JUIHjliWJ8hf0Zq_QjHsXdOQHvyL45_ay_96R9-i5iAyF6k97sDyJLg2GOe/s3050/7613F9BB-F1F2-4E78-B99F-7C3990573772.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3050" data-original-width="2445" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKK626M_r2WSYh6sVUzpxsrmlUVgA1aqQOhRgS2r6udXmYpBMCfOJzWH8IBjPruP3TKxpynb2kd8CQxKkEtrkA71iDMEMJNdg_yaWkG5CskUegR25p2muaHkuzYQ1h-JUIHjliWJ8hf0Zq_QjHsXdOQHvyL45_ay_96R9-i5iAyF6k97sDyJLg2GOe/s320/7613F9BB-F1F2-4E78-B99F-7C3990573772.jpeg" width="257" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I absolutely adore the ridiculously long pointed front, but for some reason I was fixated on the idea of making a shortened front with tabs/skirts...probably because no matter what I tried (which frankly wasn't much) the back of the skirt kept sagging. <div>I suspect my reasoning was that the tabs would cover this. </div><div>(Honestly, I was a long time ago and I don't remember why I made most of these choices).<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWiyOKJys8OCK3GDdyKWqf7Oag4SMzJxAv2zR1MklvYtwb4tDU5getpYDJMtCObqTeW1-ek25Gy7A3pnLZqEjeAENbprk10KIWDJR2D8fXKO2vbri-V-VVWyZKYQCW-jPwKqk9in2j9XRbz5A1kWi5uvu-oNqPW55py6zvHuDFUTZs1BVS0nEVSNJ2/s3212/DFC69D29-9B59-4910-BA2E-0710F5F79344.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3212" data-original-width="1910" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWiyOKJys8OCK3GDdyKWqf7Oag4SMzJxAv2zR1MklvYtwb4tDU5getpYDJMtCObqTeW1-ek25Gy7A3pnLZqEjeAENbprk10KIWDJR2D8fXKO2vbri-V-VVWyZKYQCW-jPwKqk9in2j9XRbz5A1kWi5uvu-oNqPW55py6zvHuDFUTZs1BVS0nEVSNJ2/s320/DFC69D29-9B59-4910-BA2E-0710F5F79344.jpeg" width="190" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>So with that in mind, the the front is shortened, the gap at the bust is closed and tabs are added. </div><div>Aesthetically, I have to admit that I'm actually less keen on the tabs, so I definitely plan to return to this pattern and make a bodice with a more dramatic point in the fiture.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEWNdXd4XTLYsee9s9gKzTAbHHZR7i3YCYseRtCkzAalarIytQffnNfqRNSV0kt_tH9xvA_0RVV4zgM4KnBerVJseagbIaB1l0oLaFz5NrWWrIC3m8g09cmZroobPAwQ8rbTiR6ad7pSwKqejCQ0MB3KqoRj9M6x8bh2hZO_1S_uCJOO9vmj7SxxGb/s3038/78998ABF-60F0-4F79-BCCA-A54365F0A8D4.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3038" data-original-width="1820" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEWNdXd4XTLYsee9s9gKzTAbHHZR7i3YCYseRtCkzAalarIytQffnNfqRNSV0kt_tH9xvA_0RVV4zgM4KnBerVJseagbIaB1l0oLaFz5NrWWrIC3m8g09cmZroobPAwQ8rbTiR6ad7pSwKqejCQ0MB3KqoRj9M6x8bh2hZO_1S_uCJOO9vmj7SxxGb/s320/78998ABF-60F0-4F79-BCCA-A54365F0A8D4.jpeg" width="192" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilNPl4tZ-yebyHZLlXBGy2DgyV9kry6ucHaUwZQaOep7PA-qG3lW_i3PzUVu6A4Y2iwqiQKiP7mZF_4Axx1nNRFlZk2ICHTKmZfqLJSYTQ94TalM2MYfp6vYvZ5_MxQQ9w0ahpS6W1v0kl30LB7-JkVRBsXhWZUkS2aVvd2dCkpZMxXOh7xMvlEyTf/s3218/A0D9A0C6-52D6-4F98-A805-1DCD4FB9DEE1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3218" data-original-width="1882" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilNPl4tZ-yebyHZLlXBGy2DgyV9kry6ucHaUwZQaOep7PA-qG3lW_i3PzUVu6A4Y2iwqiQKiP7mZF_4Axx1nNRFlZk2ICHTKmZfqLJSYTQ94TalM2MYfp6vYvZ5_MxQQ9w0ahpS6W1v0kl30LB7-JkVRBsXhWZUkS2aVvd2dCkpZMxXOh7xMvlEyTf/s320/A0D9A0C6-52D6-4F98-A805-1DCD4FB9DEE1.jpeg" width="187" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdg_nAOpk2QUTCHr7qNq9--_mTeRBPjKuxGio8lnShCLGaaALhhfQ_hca7e3t23wACBuslNPHOqS6TOHZpTi3RCxTguJ84k0GVTNrmj1G6-wixAei64_a8yfUSBATd0M9HWnGYMtIFCnnFIhywu--6Z2j9zFhKrSEqRBdUSB2sS96dPvNOMUZX0jS6/s2921/95487AB1-8B06-4083-B6DE-2CC8D84C0521.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2921" data-original-width="1595" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdg_nAOpk2QUTCHr7qNq9--_mTeRBPjKuxGio8lnShCLGaaALhhfQ_hca7e3t23wACBuslNPHOqS6TOHZpTi3RCxTguJ84k0GVTNrmj1G6-wixAei64_a8yfUSBATd0M9HWnGYMtIFCnnFIhywu--6Z2j9zFhKrSEqRBdUSB2sS96dPvNOMUZX0jS6/s320/95487AB1-8B06-4083-B6DE-2CC8D84C0521.jpeg" width="175" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0lqMheEtxQnktGemU3GEona3zaoSj9QEUbl3Wo4Q40nqAL5GBQeyGDOgSR2VqwFgisbMPrNQAarYjPYR-uyit12runvnS7HhFiSmzm1SOjWHwnToTUvbs0muuJ8eywL6sG1TcHHooxwlU09LfsKcQ0op0C-MCqiBNmZ6EuLl1RociAmLRrAVX2xBh/s2780/63D9DEDA-2756-4F85-AB44-1F4D0FB0B0AC.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2780" data-original-width="1467" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0lqMheEtxQnktGemU3GEona3zaoSj9QEUbl3Wo4Q40nqAL5GBQeyGDOgSR2VqwFgisbMPrNQAarYjPYR-uyit12runvnS7HhFiSmzm1SOjWHwnToTUvbs0muuJ8eywL6sG1TcHHooxwlU09LfsKcQ0op0C-MCqiBNmZ6EuLl1RociAmLRrAVX2xBh/s320/63D9DEDA-2756-4F85-AB44-1F4D0FB0B0AC.jpeg" width="169" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now the fun starts!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've never tailored anything before, so this was my first time using pad stitching for it's intended purpose. (i.e to help shape and support the garment rather than just as an over-kill basting stitch).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After the body is cut in linen canvas, wool felt is loosely basted in around the shoulders. Then the wool is clipped away from the seam allowances and a series of pad stitches are worked in, first around the arms and then trough the body.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(<i>NOTE:</i> A guide for the seam allowances are stitched in by machine. I don't know if this is the best approach, but I found this material frayed quite readily and so I didn't want to lose track of where my seam allowances should be.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPCcbks-TpksjcPeqI0svn7DKNHSMe7fFs1-R96fNPjl7HQXWN_P4vWreSvLfUZDR1QkIt6-R1D3yBRMrYgXMGMhH6M3xUq3rIYx3F0iYc7_H5TtD3t3laq8dEcIxm9jPZcUyg_Pm9ZTN4HDW4RzEWOwzqlqVmArfA8wSwgxPiZoWULqPxEd9cQ3Lz/s4032/562CE650-6B82-4CE2-80DB-DDD11B0F9712.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPCcbks-TpksjcPeqI0svn7DKNHSMe7fFs1-R96fNPjl7HQXWN_P4vWreSvLfUZDR1QkIt6-R1D3yBRMrYgXMGMhH6M3xUq3rIYx3F0iYc7_H5TtD3t3laq8dEcIxm9jPZcUyg_Pm9ZTN4HDW4RzEWOwzqlqVmArfA8wSwgxPiZoWULqPxEd9cQ3Lz/s320/562CE650-6B82-4CE2-80DB-DDD11B0F9712.jpeg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAA1Kn6jVbyqbVT8TzuJwHrv149RXxvbxDUZ-ck2scLKm-MO9sIgUFQdealXAi9AlfzpTeP3GqfhwuXGzyWlvMl3kZNRHD_yd6AZHp7T6fVy1pIeorD25_P1839R3VZJM3e0F_u7FdULv8ObHIDsqh_194bcA515pooMij9sTevlVqfdZMGiSR87PC/s3397/D670ECD7-C8D8-43BC-9B4B-65504636ADF7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3397" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAA1Kn6jVbyqbVT8TzuJwHrv149RXxvbxDUZ-ck2scLKm-MO9sIgUFQdealXAi9AlfzpTeP3GqfhwuXGzyWlvMl3kZNRHD_yd6AZHp7T6fVy1pIeorD25_P1839R3VZJM3e0F_u7FdULv8ObHIDsqh_194bcA515pooMij9sTevlVqfdZMGiSR87PC/s320/D670ECD7-C8D8-43BC-9B4B-65504636ADF7.jpeg" width="285" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicSqomdlzAHKm7NRZEUBsT1oB5b_humusixw9JCnG3MJtWEBeHrOUMBXxML9h36N1742WRUfag2Z7yjQGBtKVMukSf7jFfCe78stBR9vnWr_9nljOGc3jxPuV6qOh_j3oiLSgXXARFMnN2-8yR8O8sLRRHZmyS2Pd4UJIEs9kO7dsfHxhtfBRTwnVM/s3725/EEBD2CCB-AB44-4380-A970-19C15D5DE805.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3725" data-original-width="2896" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicSqomdlzAHKm7NRZEUBsT1oB5b_humusixw9JCnG3MJtWEBeHrOUMBXxML9h36N1742WRUfag2Z7yjQGBtKVMukSf7jFfCe78stBR9vnWr_9nljOGc3jxPuV6qOh_j3oiLSgXXARFMnN2-8yR8O8sLRRHZmyS2Pd4UJIEs9kO7dsfHxhtfBRTwnVM/s320/EEBD2CCB-AB44-4380-A970-19C15D5DE805.jpeg" width="249" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5cq-rjCPd4zaIWitt47sIG3e8hsa0cbt8lA_Kz1yarm0k3ojFu0TZtRU2IfL7_CfQJQrEPMVg381T8wnXBE65QEGARuouhb6RcVLOxfNRmJ66Iu60VVskTxv-OajbNN4jEzLLPL21Se6OLSj4sWvmoAIuBjnKu-FQYu8QoygD2MRhITOqCqEe_Gjk/s3669/8E0B32A5-92F9-4784-B599-8BEF314C926F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3669" data-original-width="2947" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5cq-rjCPd4zaIWitt47sIG3e8hsa0cbt8lA_Kz1yarm0k3ojFu0TZtRU2IfL7_CfQJQrEPMVg381T8wnXBE65QEGARuouhb6RcVLOxfNRmJ66Iu60VVskTxv-OajbNN4jEzLLPL21Se6OLSj4sWvmoAIuBjnKu-FQYu8QoygD2MRhITOqCqEe_Gjk/s320/8E0B32A5-92F9-4784-B599-8BEF314C926F.jpeg" width="257" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>This is repeated on the other front piece and again on the two back pieces. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_RdTCMABVjKNa3i0KMInWVsjOYkWGv0PFnZCNdm-Ggzi1SzZy8oPMno9Lt9OEGO3wY1o1a3KpqHrrla2nKFYU1yoz82Rbs8AovRvbwf0oUYMW_Y-uYgJF-ffLdgmWpWM0P_ONRiDRQde6zl36F5O0s0pszk8uLkP2im7eQRMsoCap9VHcAex4uny_/s3252/DA9EF43C-CBC1-400C-AE65-53CE1040D688.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2567" data-original-width="3252" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_RdTCMABVjKNa3i0KMInWVsjOYkWGv0PFnZCNdm-Ggzi1SzZy8oPMno9Lt9OEGO3wY1o1a3KpqHrrla2nKFYU1yoz82Rbs8AovRvbwf0oUYMW_Y-uYgJF-ffLdgmWpWM0P_ONRiDRQde6zl36F5O0s0pszk8uLkP2im7eQRMsoCap9VHcAex4uny_/s320/DA9EF43C-CBC1-400C-AE65-53CE1040D688.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk1e9Bh88X3j3nZyxdVOYMKo1sMKCaKLS1oMl0SRIPGDHGqjk_2PaGRRoSR4Gq8236-8NNma_RmTLjXY_HmrN2IhtHauMzCK1YMKOLlR_ckjIM9CEOGTEjbrzQWUbzt7Hw6qnyc-zG-unYiWqHopuZgwT2H7MUfJf1Yee3j-3AP4bCvGvD7kkLKlwy/s2735/36487525-90C4-406A-8BE5-7D3BEFB68C9C.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2659" data-original-width="2735" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk1e9Bh88X3j3nZyxdVOYMKo1sMKCaKLS1oMl0SRIPGDHGqjk_2PaGRRoSR4Gq8236-8NNma_RmTLjXY_HmrN2IhtHauMzCK1YMKOLlR_ckjIM9CEOGTEjbrzQWUbzt7Hw6qnyc-zG-unYiWqHopuZgwT2H7MUfJf1Yee3j-3AP4bCvGvD7kkLKlwy/s320/36487525-90C4-406A-8BE5-7D3BEFB68C9C.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then, to provide some stability to front edges, line tape is stitched down just shy of the seam line (to allow for the the front edge to be folded over the tape)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTCs7ySNzk4XVP7UPloxDRsRz4BmBTAH6U8RTxylorR7j5rCUaMxNohyW0HWyL2AQu7pAFMeoOBHztEBFjhjYzEB1nlt19ur8dMrx39KCEQEhPVIuJwxOmZ7bAsJp8HVOImvyH2uXjDsdtCNwARghrkkp5Pe2W290gwZTDsPAhK-1zUkh8gvhCHs2X/s4032/60BE2044-9E0D-44F1-BD62-65BDB82B5B52.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTCs7ySNzk4XVP7UPloxDRsRz4BmBTAH6U8RTxylorR7j5rCUaMxNohyW0HWyL2AQu7pAFMeoOBHztEBFjhjYzEB1nlt19ur8dMrx39KCEQEhPVIuJwxOmZ7bAsJp8HVOImvyH2uXjDsdtCNwARghrkkp5Pe2W290gwZTDsPAhK-1zUkh8gvhCHs2X/s320/60BE2044-9E0D-44F1-BD62-65BDB82B5B52.jpeg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1lgjAKUljblp6LrpeLor1TAWc-bv_Rv3rxqfqRv4n9zcpHIBHBs6v3p8P105lFQ4svXJbKImAaV1hCUwvORiV1ZOjG0NJK0Y3jioUgcVWZMZJ1QUXCT8BNyWML9ILuP7m08PcqPAbnw6VmTPbM6jdPCBjteV1jvHBcOX7B8df3IXQqIzyDmNwpws-/s3232/BF426566-B701-4DD2-9769-48A681436360.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3232" data-original-width="2695" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1lgjAKUljblp6LrpeLor1TAWc-bv_Rv3rxqfqRv4n9zcpHIBHBs6v3p8P105lFQ4svXJbKImAaV1hCUwvORiV1ZOjG0NJK0Y3jioUgcVWZMZJ1QUXCT8BNyWML9ILuP7m08PcqPAbnw6VmTPbM6jdPCBjteV1jvHBcOX7B8df3IXQqIzyDmNwpws-/s320/BF426566-B701-4DD2-9769-48A681436360.jpeg" width="267" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizE_0sJmLK9HLzwZaugIERhzcZ36BZyf5ebgJEkf70phmNhjN3snHub0VUGlaiUGVSGtkVU2lPRBZhGmZMVgsXh7bsPr9IQe-vxkviEFgPxMq2j-vmu3RQEV9Y2KsnHi02-rks3S_AQHVOhVHzfxPru32gGIQa_e18HBumqKBvVZz5JFry4hPnKbG4/s2371/043C9CBE-8FD1-45E2-8D55-28D8F9E9E143.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2371" data-original-width="1867" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizE_0sJmLK9HLzwZaugIERhzcZ36BZyf5ebgJEkf70phmNhjN3snHub0VUGlaiUGVSGtkVU2lPRBZhGmZMVgsXh7bsPr9IQe-vxkviEFgPxMq2j-vmu3RQEV9Y2KsnHi02-rks3S_AQHVOhVHzfxPru32gGIQa_e18HBumqKBvVZz5JFry4hPnKbG4/s320/043C9CBE-8FD1-45E2-8D55-28D8F9E9E143.jpeg" width="252" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA_N-N_waj2Ki-2HqbP1H99t6Oxnw1sLsSh28MkL2QVXXrAtaPHi36vlhob8QZgLYDJ1dJTQvGUMsy1GbtRsQuBzDyQQOsP2jAcsfRB2jtmpur-XdjZA3UYOljIQkLHqg2HcS2VQPPFnhBWS0gLxiOUPnuqI3xSiSiyzeun3UlqqNMS2ZzsnsOMVJ5/s3342/D71D3EE7-8B6F-44A5-8A72-F85225506E0F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3342" data-original-width="2772" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA_N-N_waj2Ki-2HqbP1H99t6Oxnw1sLsSh28MkL2QVXXrAtaPHi36vlhob8QZgLYDJ1dJTQvGUMsy1GbtRsQuBzDyQQOsP2jAcsfRB2jtmpur-XdjZA3UYOljIQkLHqg2HcS2VQPPFnhBWS0gLxiOUPnuqI3xSiSiyzeun3UlqqNMS2ZzsnsOMVJ5/s320/D71D3EE7-8B6F-44A5-8A72-F85225506E0F.jpeg" width="265" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next, the body fabric is basted into the canvas with large pad stitches. This is not an approach recommended by The Modern Maker, but I've gotten into the habit of doing it to ensure the outer fabric lies flat. It's my security blanket.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Maybe this causes other problems down the road, I'm not sure...</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVaSy6_cSF-y8iwo7YDU7-ykf3yAy3ejQfCiB01rWyUueHd-U_QvX3jMPDGf_4KEPxRsZ1sAnGZoOsVLQENgwaaTNNMjbxxP8FDjjn-E92CFcRjNLoxfI-GrR2EhbCqqbfpbEF-6e2OdMvAIjRkWU7PJMnEIyj4_0Q7UaPNMH7XxysZhy_4Vn9VoZo/s2358/4E4C42B4-E9B4-4BF4-A390-58F774C6CC9E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2130" data-original-width="2358" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVaSy6_cSF-y8iwo7YDU7-ykf3yAy3ejQfCiB01rWyUueHd-U_QvX3jMPDGf_4KEPxRsZ1sAnGZoOsVLQENgwaaTNNMjbxxP8FDjjn-E92CFcRjNLoxfI-GrR2EhbCqqbfpbEF-6e2OdMvAIjRkWU7PJMnEIyj4_0Q7UaPNMH7XxysZhy_4Vn9VoZo/s320/4E4C42B4-E9B4-4BF4-A390-58F774C6CC9E.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now the body pieces are assembled with a backstitch, using the seam lines as a guide.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Remember when I said this was a project I wanted to whip together with the machine? Well, that didn't quite work out.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the end I opt to assemble all the pieces by hand, rather than risk the likelihood of having to tear it all out when the seams inevitably don't quite match up </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCzSSA_UdsYXKM6mliLLcSoo8BGYh-mfXVQlDYYhbrQVmUpaVlqhFmw1nj_QXFs5K5jACPNwR4671-wS0mIGbUuIdOxuYgKSuYmbLQajwrjgcge22DiqwkxFIiv50Gl3p_iRJwO6I9H6iO5O-DqWnK4AgKe6Yav9CIUvQr3wen16Q9iQ77YDEB_3oe/s3023/46A9E894-6832-4978-9143-C518BD934C95.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2514" data-original-width="3023" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCzSSA_UdsYXKM6mliLLcSoo8BGYh-mfXVQlDYYhbrQVmUpaVlqhFmw1nj_QXFs5K5jACPNwR4671-wS0mIGbUuIdOxuYgKSuYmbLQajwrjgcge22DiqwkxFIiv50Gl3p_iRJwO6I9H6iO5O-DqWnK4AgKe6Yav9CIUvQr3wen16Q9iQ77YDEB_3oe/s320/46A9E894-6832-4978-9143-C518BD934C95.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTbvc7q2lnhf7gDACu1_sMflwhqX9EwO3GmBvNukzAu_5NsmFWkLdVhk7Sl4RKSes3vL3U4xhoQ9YX-IpAX_hF4YhBMUfSEcLI1aFD5xlnW9oTqMGt4JJd7O3ol5vz-6VfZuF39LyKuxyn9eb0Yy1UjzsZkf8nCR_RI_8Ot74AVlmwgzZy4NnevlVB/s2764/B4F17284-E381-4FE7-A937-76CB9331CCC1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2764" data-original-width="2747" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTbvc7q2lnhf7gDACu1_sMflwhqX9EwO3GmBvNukzAu_5NsmFWkLdVhk7Sl4RKSes3vL3U4xhoQ9YX-IpAX_hF4YhBMUfSEcLI1aFD5xlnW9oTqMGt4JJd7O3ol5vz-6VfZuF39LyKuxyn9eb0Yy1UjzsZkf8nCR_RI_8Ot74AVlmwgzZy4NnevlVB/s320/B4F17284-E381-4FE7-A937-76CB9331CCC1.jpeg" width="318" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">At this point I decided that I wanted to give a little more heft to the front edge and stitch down a strip of medium weight black linen (the same fabric that I'll later use for the lining)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuV0BrYRWhXoSFAM2fX92RNG1f7zktNt5IQw7tlUfWxo-IMWI4nBFDrkxzLRJHfV383m1uB8u1gyUEtUVqJ1TrF6M-moGBLEz1_Vz-UwTMdViiXhMrfGFrfnJtvkCZnwg7ufTyWi38rdBpo2iJYQvWK_qP0U70hHj0ObSJBGrxuWavkjbkSl8q_gXp/s4030/1D6F40F6-C559-44B3-8981-4D1674C8222D.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="4030" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuV0BrYRWhXoSFAM2fX92RNG1f7zktNt5IQw7tlUfWxo-IMWI4nBFDrkxzLRJHfV383m1uB8u1gyUEtUVqJ1TrF6M-moGBLEz1_Vz-UwTMdViiXhMrfGFrfnJtvkCZnwg7ufTyWi38rdBpo2iJYQvWK_qP0U70hHj0ObSJBGrxuWavkjbkSl8q_gXp/s320/1D6F40F6-C559-44B3-8981-4D1674C8222D.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Since I'm planning to bind the front edge later, the excess brown fabric is then trimmed away.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk17VT9RZgsbJ1WlHziUl_fUTcl2sUcGyROu5P2GkrtrLgPoqnpQ17LX9ISzyRsMEDd8wdiOCQE36Fl4VZTpbLgavZri5HSxmr2LPVAAtTLGTk1WX17cCtzBNlSj93kizlL8wKIscoiQ0UTqTchC8Yue60hm68eilMbQuIyIwaLlrfcT7QpkFLIE8P/s3415/9CB3AB44-EEEB-410E-8421-D834E18F5B34.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2419" data-original-width="3415" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk17VT9RZgsbJ1WlHziUl_fUTcl2sUcGyROu5P2GkrtrLgPoqnpQ17LX9ISzyRsMEDd8wdiOCQE36Fl4VZTpbLgavZri5HSxmr2LPVAAtTLGTk1WX17cCtzBNlSj93kizlL8wKIscoiQ0UTqTchC8Yue60hm68eilMbQuIyIwaLlrfcT7QpkFLIE8P/s320/9CB3AB44-EEEB-410E-8421-D834E18F5B34.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjajPXf2oGhQMIWrGVO7qGSf9eD8PAyGXoeUrYORVRVwLz4whQHdAVoP2hqK4FDHroJS_UiW3IJXf3aKJ3NgLQo87L2AQHpDojWjV_NLxFGHy-pNAoxz6XRObb7yiCCuevomlnmKJcbrnEJmKm2-o30jYZbb1gMIGlcAKQYhZFo8KqJD_qTj4aeG9Ad/s3489/BD9081FD-B7CF-4876-86FD-349F8EB5FFD0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2500" data-original-width="3489" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjajPXf2oGhQMIWrGVO7qGSf9eD8PAyGXoeUrYORVRVwLz4whQHdAVoP2hqK4FDHroJS_UiW3IJXf3aKJ3NgLQo87L2AQHpDojWjV_NLxFGHy-pNAoxz6XRObb7yiCCuevomlnmKJcbrnEJmKm2-o30jYZbb1gMIGlcAKQYhZFo8KqJD_qTj4aeG9Ad/s320/BD9081FD-B7CF-4876-86FD-349F8EB5FFD0.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And as you can see by this point some of the trim has been added to the body pieces.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMiamD68nd5vEWU7AZrsyhdyk5uK_MGHyqxUqt2oQuP5WmOzmY7qSTH1wRI6huXRBRGZapMuRt6MSGq9XDxDJ7HWRYGTox2Y1kRjpHZrrN49bcJbb2fFll5P_I4QLIwXIcedjZQKrop9Rf5URiMqqe5IiLiBmCr6YhyLIZWFKimw8vGKYbZZ5ejIkb/s4032/7BF367D0-EE57-4B59-879B-D612C8EEE691.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMiamD68nd5vEWU7AZrsyhdyk5uK_MGHyqxUqt2oQuP5WmOzmY7qSTH1wRI6huXRBRGZapMuRt6MSGq9XDxDJ7HWRYGTox2Y1kRjpHZrrN49bcJbb2fFll5P_I4QLIwXIcedjZQKrop9Rf5URiMqqe5IiLiBmCr6YhyLIZWFKimw8vGKYbZZ5ejIkb/s320/7BF367D0-EE57-4B59-879B-D612C8EEE691.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Next, the shoulder seams are joined and a single line of trim is stitched down along the seam.</div><div style="text-align: left;">(Looking back, I'm a little annoyed by the the fact that I made the choice to have some seams trimmed with a single row and trim and other with a double row...I'm sure I it made some sense at the time, but it sure annoys the heck out of me now).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbGav5qvojpfmUtvrQ2Ss4X1u9lR7JD0AiWjbnrZA4JTpGlw-EBrgTdYeDk8Go9S24vJMHmDTeUuq40GjmLOpxyQW2XviZRlehsYMg6hojg_lRWlHlQyhueTavSLSp-oD3cnnZws0xMHDxuxAOJl6Oha2Lpu_TcUaNSokpNv4xWndcHimjBXGkJ6nu/s3926/E9FAB25E-3A70-40A9-8286-57C9EE6CA213.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2623" data-original-width="3926" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbGav5qvojpfmUtvrQ2Ss4X1u9lR7JD0AiWjbnrZA4JTpGlw-EBrgTdYeDk8Go9S24vJMHmDTeUuq40GjmLOpxyQW2XviZRlehsYMg6hojg_lRWlHlQyhueTavSLSp-oD3cnnZws0xMHDxuxAOJl6Oha2Lpu_TcUaNSokpNv4xWndcHimjBXGkJ6nu/s320/E9FAB25E-3A70-40A9-8286-57C9EE6CA213.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now it's time to make up the collar. Like the body pieces, wool padding is basted onto linen canvas. However, this wool is much thinner than the padding in the body since I was worried about the collar being too bulky.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's then <i>very</i> tightly pad stitched, encouraging the collar to curve outwards, away from the neck. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8zt3cJQIw1O01-H0DAvHpXOoEj3lZhTXFF_2xGeNCTAiahrrcyN1hQYKJqOnjXnP-fB19hjT7iTG3_RUapbHySp4rR3iV3WcwXbxAmExVj_I8RvLR8g6fQjWXhTw-dB-s1fou3ZY-RI17MuaVMhqWgeVAD8bW3l7nyyzNV8fc_GA6aHfcEq6pAOqc/s3635/E835A21D-249C-4B10-AF0D-910C3C1D9B6F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1639" data-original-width="3635" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8zt3cJQIw1O01-H0DAvHpXOoEj3lZhTXFF_2xGeNCTAiahrrcyN1hQYKJqOnjXnP-fB19hjT7iTG3_RUapbHySp4rR3iV3WcwXbxAmExVj_I8RvLR8g6fQjWXhTw-dB-s1fou3ZY-RI17MuaVMhqWgeVAD8bW3l7nyyzNV8fc_GA6aHfcEq6pAOqc/s320/E835A21D-249C-4B10-AF0D-910C3C1D9B6F.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfo5av7Ro08nfQ2V1HWBaBje9okcakSNjfjmu0T-vV3ygCB2C_kpVOBDg-RQ0cTjMlqLGmcMnGVduvgvISZLfJ0QnVmp6g-YevMXhJ4zVW8-p35iQzA-9J4ejpFSBzAN1-fZOKl9_r-tK8SGQ62ompOahGe78STHyD10ex77WodaU6BFyYUuBLDHKr/s3697/7F4DB87A-15E8-4A0F-BA44-53E0D82CDAC7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1642" data-original-width="3697" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfo5av7Ro08nfQ2V1HWBaBje9okcakSNjfjmu0T-vV3ygCB2C_kpVOBDg-RQ0cTjMlqLGmcMnGVduvgvISZLfJ0QnVmp6g-YevMXhJ4zVW8-p35iQzA-9J4ejpFSBzAN1-fZOKl9_r-tK8SGQ62ompOahGe78STHyD10ex77WodaU6BFyYUuBLDHKr/s320/7F4DB87A-15E8-4A0F-BA44-53E0D82CDAC7.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div><div>As you can see, the pad stitching stops quite a bit shy of the front edge. That is because I purposely cut the collar too large, knowing there might be some shrinkage due to the pad stitching. I plan to cut it down later. </div><div><br /></div><div>The excess wool padding it cut away from the seam allowance on the bottom and the canvas layer is basted to the brown fabric. </div><div>Then the collar is attached to the doublet and the excess fabric is clipped away.</div><div>(<i>NOTE</i>: Because I plan on binding all the way around the collar I dob't need to leave any of the brown fabric to turn over)</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiodMK8z8QofdBJcMog9R8cBZTHcCkVpgjJT8UqSqS4euueUURTFMwFlyMUrtv9hFH6ol5Eq3xA1zeiyHcwujQuYiodHlo7bIFTIeS7-IQZE9Ce2ExFJoFUPbl_TIe-4mPqkf-299y2C20TFA524RaQ-VJsz7MbXbnAnGVkBoKjTfC47mkPy14P3hhX/s2751/1B0E9826-A143-44A2-B7D4-37F7ECBD01C2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2751" data-original-width="2554" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiodMK8z8QofdBJcMog9R8cBZTHcCkVpgjJT8UqSqS4euueUURTFMwFlyMUrtv9hFH6ol5Eq3xA1zeiyHcwujQuYiodHlo7bIFTIeS7-IQZE9Ce2ExFJoFUPbl_TIe-4mPqkf-299y2C20TFA524RaQ-VJsz7MbXbnAnGVkBoKjTfC47mkPy14P3hhX/s320/1B0E9826-A143-44A2-B7D4-37F7ECBD01C2.jpeg" width="297" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Okay, I hear you ask, what the heck is going on with that loose trim?</div><div style="text-align: left;">Well, I knew I wanted a double row of trim down the front...but since the front edge will be bound I wasn't sure exactly where to place the second row of trim so that it was even spaced. So instead I stitched the trim into the collar seam (roughly where I thought it might line up) and plan to leave it loose until the front edge is bound.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Yes, I know I'm making things WAY too complicated for myself.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Anyway...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Next trim is sewn in around the bottom of the collar.</div><div style="text-align: left;">(At first I made the mistake of sewing this below the seam line on the body, rather than on the collar itself. Don't do that, it sits weird...or at least mine did.)</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOVHHpDPJjyxgPy7QDZ9RK5EzwAgBwwu0UorNkobwSBggZ2xm25N9wlDGjzr9P4QyaBxyQa3stYTmp2Wn6Kb-vJj5WzyUBq0MXUc1Hc__lDN65NT7MnaAo7pGN873eTugR-QJeUAA29Bawp8C7obSgcGp1f1SFFQu_HC89GulYRqQ_x6dRLQGIIZ9b/s2929/D669ED7F-A1FD-498E-8E1A-59A3C8E43993.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2872" data-original-width="2929" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOVHHpDPJjyxgPy7QDZ9RK5EzwAgBwwu0UorNkobwSBggZ2xm25N9wlDGjzr9P4QyaBxyQa3stYTmp2Wn6Kb-vJj5WzyUBq0MXUc1Hc__lDN65NT7MnaAo7pGN873eTugR-QJeUAA29Bawp8C7obSgcGp1f1SFFQu_HC89GulYRqQ_x6dRLQGIIZ9b/s320/D669ED7F-A1FD-498E-8E1A-59A3C8E43993.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ZNjnd4kgWVTk2qGX2zkClNR38u0xhMNdIyVYxWzPLMJpScQFx4pO_ZUPAF7BYEbyzJAqmOjNQxTSKYtPxhuC3pGeLMg2ApmOqBx-V087IGocrbQzVdvG7XHDM3xYoXmAC0mANjp4VxfcMLqeZ7_6qDz_8s0hXU5gIhrZzs8rFzKfYgl1gI8a6x-X/s3386/EF632E79-2612-450A-B522-8D8DE7FD2BFF.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3386" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ZNjnd4kgWVTk2qGX2zkClNR38u0xhMNdIyVYxWzPLMJpScQFx4pO_ZUPAF7BYEbyzJAqmOjNQxTSKYtPxhuC3pGeLMg2ApmOqBx-V087IGocrbQzVdvG7XHDM3xYoXmAC0mANjp4VxfcMLqeZ7_6qDz_8s0hXU5gIhrZzs8rFzKfYgl1gI8a6x-X/s320/EF632E79-2612-450A-B522-8D8DE7FD2BFF.jpeg" width="286" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now, before the external edge is bound I add the lining to the collar.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(This makes it so that the collar lining can never be removed, which maybe wasn't the best choice...but, hey, you live and learn)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs_pZWVo_g_FQCuHqgyErn_8Pn6DhEEpcRbrDveQpvylW5m14LX3NXGqMJEYcmBTX1LhUsuU86JAyLUizwDIgDfjfjl8EAekyN2Ry-MS7VvyJTdRpxP9nJWQaWJvHzMyTZcaT1mKuW0WkBUdIsb4_gnbxqaxIEVnh9l7e8hxJZPWdpAJd3xA1ujYVm/s3938/2A2672AB-0EF1-4E85-BB78-FE39BDA592E7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2851" data-original-width="3938" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs_pZWVo_g_FQCuHqgyErn_8Pn6DhEEpcRbrDveQpvylW5m14LX3NXGqMJEYcmBTX1LhUsuU86JAyLUizwDIgDfjfjl8EAekyN2Ry-MS7VvyJTdRpxP9nJWQaWJvHzMyTZcaT1mKuW0WkBUdIsb4_gnbxqaxIEVnh9l7e8hxJZPWdpAJd3xA1ujYVm/s320/2A2672AB-0EF1-4E85-BB78-FE39BDA592E7.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The lining is stitched in with a spaced backstitch along the top edge. Again, this will be bound so I'm not worried about going all the way through to the top fabric.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjuDO5qk9nO2cnRiSRrhy9uffWFbp-CSk_Oz2gdgcGK1Yk1iK5ZCYflT_bO5Oo9Sjh-NvTbZ670-g-ivA1MWX4obAo_x9gRg7cJuJEg_7pcVz49UopqpllKim9FiUkcMkz9nUSNEdYY8UuPb0o4s_-y_BqltZecTuAZ6fDhBeRcyarFybEs6X1XvvC/s3023/49E85EC9-A0E9-4C0E-82A7-708B46880BF1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2825" data-original-width="3023" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjuDO5qk9nO2cnRiSRrhy9uffWFbp-CSk_Oz2gdgcGK1Yk1iK5ZCYflT_bO5Oo9Sjh-NvTbZ670-g-ivA1MWX4obAo_x9gRg7cJuJEg_7pcVz49UopqpllKim9FiUkcMkz9nUSNEdYY8UuPb0o4s_-y_BqltZecTuAZ6fDhBeRcyarFybEs6X1XvvC/s320/49E85EC9-A0E9-4C0E-82A7-708B46880BF1.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The the bottom of the lining is turned under and basted into place with temporary stitches along the collar seam.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2WhcHD1e95DminUCD70eMX_TfOKq2mo8DiXOu3vyceadvnhZAs4JR8B3Ds76b-VefyfVGnN-6ZlHjoycxyTMSNwDWGWYK4J91O5uzQhWSMcb0tO-UcRQNGPdyVLj56U-6HNC17rJhM681ttciS-sLstDUG2ToDw9VekrKGt42UIty8gRsALRzxPDe/s4028/EF863979-C2D6-4EF4-8BFC-7CE6F57EC6D0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2340" data-original-width="4028" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2WhcHD1e95DminUCD70eMX_TfOKq2mo8DiXOu3vyceadvnhZAs4JR8B3Ds76b-VefyfVGnN-6ZlHjoycxyTMSNwDWGWYK4J91O5uzQhWSMcb0tO-UcRQNGPdyVLj56U-6HNC17rJhM681ttciS-sLstDUG2ToDw9VekrKGt42UIty8gRsALRzxPDe/s320/EF863979-C2D6-4EF4-8BFC-7CE6F57EC6D0.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhszp_yyDYPO3fmEwd-xIxJ3X-QgHRCjXner7pdcNuwuBsx9Sdg7v6UpwN_uFjt2A7bIfEr8N2L-AU_SFUzx8AopBsRKGEZ1ET0e7CRDDQTHnBxlsHCHrZS0PHvntQUTYlay1f6-B0c5JyDLOl6-cYf_c0Jq-1nX9LgforNRFg53Qmo6PmTn-A_CRCK/s3893/6E8EC182-44EC-4E52-BC89-8CAAF1FD4006.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3893" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhszp_yyDYPO3fmEwd-xIxJ3X-QgHRCjXner7pdcNuwuBsx9Sdg7v6UpwN_uFjt2A7bIfEr8N2L-AU_SFUzx8AopBsRKGEZ1ET0e7CRDDQTHnBxlsHCHrZS0PHvntQUTYlay1f6-B0c5JyDLOl6-cYf_c0Jq-1nX9LgforNRFg53Qmo6PmTn-A_CRCK/s320/6E8EC182-44EC-4E52-BC89-8CAAF1FD4006.jpeg" width="248" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then outer fabric along the bottom edge is turned and stitched down, finishing the edge.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE9kQj2Aymp51kG8u565hk02q6sE41Byfg5HAfj300VlY7bJcSLOflxX9dd8-akVOzcge55pjFaZmR2BAEtH7WkDxxUTRepSROoyHTMC6lBge9nEYN7lUSYCGcNyvw55C365L2f7giaZNOvqCdfudvG_w6DgmjMKGR7upSX8lMzwn2viQAeIXlItiH/s3698/747894C2-D6B5-4660-A90B-BC041797AAB0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2700" data-original-width="3698" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE9kQj2Aymp51kG8u565hk02q6sE41Byfg5HAfj300VlY7bJcSLOflxX9dd8-akVOzcge55pjFaZmR2BAEtH7WkDxxUTRepSROoyHTMC6lBge9nEYN7lUSYCGcNyvw55C365L2f7giaZNOvqCdfudvG_w6DgmjMKGR7upSX8lMzwn2viQAeIXlItiH/s320/747894C2-D6B5-4660-A90B-BC041797AAB0.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now the front edge can be bound. I'm using 7/8" black worsted wool tape, folded in half and pressed down the middle. This continues all the way around the doublet, including the collar.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEPgh6CcooW5OKINDu-yP8Ho8BVeXOsX-xh2Ve1J8y1Aj1tj-J7HCdmVTiVWFYsSbr8KRJrGPc-bGjkPgvzEiTfuuk1SwKEu_o9siY7J80iFihztTxLyX8HKwUW9owhrDvj9iy-R4YJHv3XfsrCfaFiF04AlFrdVQNkZ-EA-Q3M1W7DVOv_BGpi4LJ/s3463/B46F03B8-36F8-4571-9220-341F5320D599.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3463" data-original-width="2555" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEPgh6CcooW5OKINDu-yP8Ho8BVeXOsX-xh2Ve1J8y1Aj1tj-J7HCdmVTiVWFYsSbr8KRJrGPc-bGjkPgvzEiTfuuk1SwKEu_o9siY7J80iFihztTxLyX8HKwUW9owhrDvj9iy-R4YJHv3XfsrCfaFiF04AlFrdVQNkZ-EA-Q3M1W7DVOv_BGpi4LJ/s320/B46F03B8-36F8-4571-9220-341F5320D599.jpeg" width="236" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWkj_b42WquWhj1tsU3BtPxRmEEtfjmUgVq3LPXybCprQP2SjxKOlUMbFRs__XBiJr4fw-GYjoN7WX_5CoKRaLOTKl2-d_GxOehf4o5lJYxPMoCdMzJdwARg-ORyzf8nySlUprcbPP1A5k0D3Lo_sOJ_G83skqTlbQk1QdUR3oEnAI3zZX_pAKuvD/s3579/F2B0C224-504B-4FC4-9FE4-F0517B1B1F56.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3579" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWkj_b42WquWhj1tsU3BtPxRmEEtfjmUgVq3LPXybCprQP2SjxKOlUMbFRs__XBiJr4fw-GYjoN7WX_5CoKRaLOTKl2-d_GxOehf4o5lJYxPMoCdMzJdwARg-ORyzf8nySlUprcbPP1A5k0D3Lo_sOJ_G83skqTlbQk1QdUR3oEnAI3zZX_pAKuvD/s320/F2B0C224-504B-4FC4-9FE4-F0517B1B1F56.jpeg" width="270" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the front edge finished that loose line of trim can now be pinned down and stitched into place.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZmIKOylPH9Pr_vwVRWVDxg48meuhvQUY77YetslmqGwyxLWgJJvoNNcapczzYj5mGywniURXkYEGlXmbDQn5J5gs_rSp4ptMs1d1nVzcg5_qYVlNprd5QC3cgh0DGYIKfjGFJlXCiF6DcoDymo_-Y3k2_bI01ea59iC72JyICZlSxCK_NykfdpQxR/s4028/84B74CF8-712D-4F7E-AE41-8A26F9E49153.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4028" data-original-width="2541" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZmIKOylPH9Pr_vwVRWVDxg48meuhvQUY77YetslmqGwyxLWgJJvoNNcapczzYj5mGywniURXkYEGlXmbDQn5J5gs_rSp4ptMs1d1nVzcg5_qYVlNprd5QC3cgh0DGYIKfjGFJlXCiF6DcoDymo_-Y3k2_bI01ea59iC72JyICZlSxCK_NykfdpQxR/s320/84B74CF8-712D-4F7E-AE41-8A26F9E49153.jpeg" width="202" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUAn4cdsLhs2BCQR2N_xEYXCf-8a5d3EiNdBPSoaBkeequamRdMpTpV-RQOVsZt8CJxNRPFw_GvKpUh3BNtclWJnzkNiguVsQPdaNkA26HYZitcl8njAptx6yLr8wmQCKB_QHW_AWdQBn0DHDnKU_Hni5VJT7SuhOJqBo9bhjGyTIhrmY3D9TqqPnJ/s4030/C0B6709A-C547-4C82-8D98-3C261C6F40F0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3022" data-original-width="4030" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUAn4cdsLhs2BCQR2N_xEYXCf-8a5d3EiNdBPSoaBkeequamRdMpTpV-RQOVsZt8CJxNRPFw_GvKpUh3BNtclWJnzkNiguVsQPdaNkA26HYZitcl8njAptx6yLr8wmQCKB_QHW_AWdQBn0DHDnKU_Hni5VJT7SuhOJqBo9bhjGyTIhrmY3D9TqqPnJ/s320/C0B6709A-C547-4C82-8D98-3C261C6F40F0.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-P_K3i4qzdTe50jhFhWYmZ6o3VpzYcA2DoMY2C-KCwNW-87lfET0xoBkhD-wkuzJ_fC-xL-Qlz1gxB9rxe-1uGpkgdZTCdWNf0WvjGLt-i9_kabiHHhuQawtBljczNI6trjJr3GZAdFX_bhrt1zasSPQ-DWrvm7gVz5UY14YP68xoeIHfNhbanDTN/s2762/2AB0B489-A584-48BD-84F6-661AA34B47C5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2762" data-original-width="2732" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-P_K3i4qzdTe50jhFhWYmZ6o3VpzYcA2DoMY2C-KCwNW-87lfET0xoBkhD-wkuzJ_fC-xL-Qlz1gxB9rxe-1uGpkgdZTCdWNf0WvjGLt-i9_kabiHHhuQawtBljczNI6trjJr3GZAdFX_bhrt1zasSPQ-DWrvm7gVz5UY14YP68xoeIHfNhbanDTN/s320/2AB0B489-A584-48BD-84F6-661AA34B47C5.jpeg" width="317" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Okay trim done!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj10Pii7T1IXxG6z9iA-xeGLOBJppoKwPIlCfo6wpQpwPi9RKTGr_Hrw51-593cLggOQkSzfCt_aiUbZwbxCq4bsI4JXdmKV1Cvn76mXqJihz43MKmwAARVjjW75Q67exn_tuK1WxsWVDcblcDEToMi1AD2A0hgvejWaoH7dWYJY9quPJynaVJuO9nc/s2358/0D0D7E8C-B3AD-4586-8349-75D1A11340D9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2358" data-original-width="2273" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj10Pii7T1IXxG6z9iA-xeGLOBJppoKwPIlCfo6wpQpwPi9RKTGr_Hrw51-593cLggOQkSzfCt_aiUbZwbxCq4bsI4JXdmKV1Cvn76mXqJihz43MKmwAARVjjW75Q67exn_tuK1WxsWVDcblcDEToMi1AD2A0hgvejWaoH7dWYJY9quPJynaVJuO9nc/s320/0D0D7E8C-B3AD-4586-8349-75D1A11340D9.jpeg" width="308" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3qDwk_5Hk9aZyhocWVInYwKjgZeyJG0c_OX4ecj0X8dnIYGb_cUyJV49ak9fCvghEhv6ExSGMU2GgqGuBDQ0_HNR8W76BONYTYNzlSYnuqQo0cLhwaKpiwrutM0LR4_SZ9CY2tmbiInl4WlZyd-W4b5Ak1noy1ZgkWpaU4cX6L_CC3M543KWXtREE/s2462/9777F18F-4258-40B7-A82C-5354F7EA2AC0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2462" data-original-width="2299" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3qDwk_5Hk9aZyhocWVInYwKjgZeyJG0c_OX4ecj0X8dnIYGb_cUyJV49ak9fCvghEhv6ExSGMU2GgqGuBDQ0_HNR8W76BONYTYNzlSYnuqQo0cLhwaKpiwrutM0LR4_SZ9CY2tmbiInl4WlZyd-W4b5Ak1noy1ZgkWpaU4cX6L_CC3M543KWXtREE/s320/9777F18F-4258-40B7-A82C-5354F7EA2AC0.jpeg" width="299" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">At this point I'm very happy with how well the doublet holds its shape and conforms to the body even without closures.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJM1I-v6PUB47hfuM2nfMyIZp2rVaYk1z-MRmI6YFWXcxUwwahHlyA_iZBoMlyT9D5LUbYT9MeiSCFq-SjoSWJKHNVAuedeJhnt_rfVgVxvwqGakXD4Izw_YqypC0tBVKubcaOdCt9j6vrkQ9XJmECt-Hptm0EsT0z-G4vUynb594ODnU2YUA40LuN/s2869/0ED5BC2C-6779-46D4-A51D-A69CD6B898EB.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2869" data-original-width="2097" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJM1I-v6PUB47hfuM2nfMyIZp2rVaYk1z-MRmI6YFWXcxUwwahHlyA_iZBoMlyT9D5LUbYT9MeiSCFq-SjoSWJKHNVAuedeJhnt_rfVgVxvwqGakXD4Izw_YqypC0tBVKubcaOdCt9j6vrkQ9XJmECt-Hptm0EsT0z-G4vUynb594ODnU2YUA40LuN/s320/0ED5BC2C-6779-46D4-A51D-A69CD6B898EB.jpeg" width="234" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ARvc1drB_CNwrLsXL12MjJQsf2x0QmOUOvHcp8BOxmPglg-vRO7AleWXzwtaI1QW-s6mGLfCpHuzBiNuIUDTtfqHFbZ8ufgRW8kJKmBV3o3zEosM0m60sFu4qeIfoYyDty7HuCFoxJDv9ekq70mldWfmRnZ0PKudfwpq8UHBRJfSji97Zu5GIL3z/s3335/1BA4697F-F248-4041-A4BA-F8ED0E0463C7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3335" data-original-width="2193" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ARvc1drB_CNwrLsXL12MjJQsf2x0QmOUOvHcp8BOxmPglg-vRO7AleWXzwtaI1QW-s6mGLfCpHuzBiNuIUDTtfqHFbZ8ufgRW8kJKmBV3o3zEosM0m60sFu4qeIfoYyDty7HuCFoxJDv9ekq70mldWfmRnZ0PKudfwpq8UHBRJfSji97Zu5GIL3z/s320/1BA4697F-F248-4041-A4BA-F8ED0E0463C7.jpeg" width="210" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY0T2IBx5B99rFPzrWx_prGHaS21hMamDfsxZh-hY1eiwuwd17aACn19_NJ_FiQpTkotqGDODB7HTZTL2OdbxOhP96oQc1hNHkKC1RtAcx9_jnHyswvHaGod_hJGp08Enr3mr_LWiW2B-4CvPceIo8FTa2kX7PMfzf_CF8ltn7N2zJ8GhFFAHZ6E57/s3111/3B1779E4-D2A0-4880-8C60-A253765EBBBB.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3111" data-original-width="1936" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY0T2IBx5B99rFPzrWx_prGHaS21hMamDfsxZh-hY1eiwuwd17aACn19_NJ_FiQpTkotqGDODB7HTZTL2OdbxOhP96oQc1hNHkKC1RtAcx9_jnHyswvHaGod_hJGp08Enr3mr_LWiW2B-4CvPceIo8FTa2kX7PMfzf_CF8ltn7N2zJ8GhFFAHZ6E57/s320/3B1779E4-D2A0-4880-8C60-A253765EBBBB.jpeg" width="199" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now to move on to the tabs and wings, starting with the later.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The wings are cut in wool and a quick running stitch is worked down the center fold.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDmNzEjzji1pHha4GSysfySV5iiuxjmSmAXn9Pk-A5_izgq80fs5phrELEmD6eFd9VeUD2AYbXF2ZR0Jtn3nDDwgTHPcwJbykL65bko22A_ImqF6ky0ZIo5aQ0AxJSHsh_1xYSXIkkDakyTexgBSxuYBMwkadAbFA9Mv4k5eHk-9sbeS3BTXKdSC-/s3197/75A0A7C8-B55C-4910-B672-A133FA7CB2B9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1708" data-original-width="3197" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDmNzEjzji1pHha4GSysfySV5iiuxjmSmAXn9Pk-A5_izgq80fs5phrELEmD6eFd9VeUD2AYbXF2ZR0Jtn3nDDwgTHPcwJbykL65bko22A_ImqF6ky0ZIo5aQ0AxJSHsh_1xYSXIkkDakyTexgBSxuYBMwkadAbFA9Mv4k5eHk-9sbeS3BTXKdSC-/s320/75A0A7C8-B55C-4910-B672-A133FA7CB2B9.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This line of stitching is used as a guide to place the trim.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(NOTE: I didn't document this earlier step, but the wing have also been basted to the black linen lining, as indicated by the row of black stitches running around the edge)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRDzfpjoQv-ZJPxjHyh5yldk6nNHCx12nvS03191ozCIAfCDZ4dwLJb8M4zw162Zypb_lE7t-p2K9xSgU-QFwOY56NKXnnWXu_Qmat9XVlWf0N3NH0QTBPTm8jsi2bJe3aASHRkz9avP7N4IbMUKBuLkQCm8wTls7vWDzSzoYjlOn6KVIdtCDdMFLM/s3658/E2AC69C4-0F4F-4CDF-8F1A-ED0EA8B35BDE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3658" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRDzfpjoQv-ZJPxjHyh5yldk6nNHCx12nvS03191ozCIAfCDZ4dwLJb8M4zw162Zypb_lE7t-p2K9xSgU-QFwOY56NKXnnWXu_Qmat9XVlWf0N3NH0QTBPTm8jsi2bJe3aASHRkz9avP7N4IbMUKBuLkQCm8wTls7vWDzSzoYjlOn6KVIdtCDdMFLM/s320/E2AC69C4-0F4F-4CDF-8F1A-ED0EA8B35BDE.jpeg" width="264" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhIe1nEOGmOxf2ft7CsyKZ7xpaFp144elNdRWeDpBacPwrELSczmU6AlTuFeBmQbZbQnBuY3b2kqOGEhrHyZa4-6OyneSt7c6WYo0Lfqa6ircW3wIPfE28sE1yfLIQupB0CDp8M41X1Biku4kdc9lgfnnb9dAYmzetm9H_c7xJCniMGC6Vy5XJNpmR/s3264/D8DAFAC5-CED1-41EF-A561-CE2492F5957B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1678" data-original-width="3264" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhIe1nEOGmOxf2ft7CsyKZ7xpaFp144elNdRWeDpBacPwrELSczmU6AlTuFeBmQbZbQnBuY3b2kqOGEhrHyZa4-6OyneSt7c6WYo0Lfqa6ircW3wIPfE28sE1yfLIQupB0CDp8M41X1Biku4kdc9lgfnnb9dAYmzetm9H_c7xJCniMGC6Vy5XJNpmR/s320/D8DAFAC5-CED1-41EF-A561-CE2492F5957B.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then the excess wool tape is trimmed away at the outer edge bound in same 7/8" tape used for the doublet.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRQRr5AGkb3lUZpTuG7w5BBLwqJyi57zx1NwZdLpjOGuP27y0kInb4CVhAsVgmpcwCRZMSsz9-nP7sZXkp_AMyNx247raxNWT4CnjNB8KcxNJsqXTyPtFK_2PCrT8GM-4Vghf3AlqcZi8dB4HKQt5g0M5dJDhDhvYQ0bUZemhNmC4-V0hMbf5zNWz2/s4029/E47F8313-CE74-4DCD-AD26-3DB466FEA1B8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1876" data-original-width="4029" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRQRr5AGkb3lUZpTuG7w5BBLwqJyi57zx1NwZdLpjOGuP27y0kInb4CVhAsVgmpcwCRZMSsz9-nP7sZXkp_AMyNx247raxNWT4CnjNB8KcxNJsqXTyPtFK_2PCrT8GM-4Vghf3AlqcZi8dB4HKQt5g0M5dJDhDhvYQ0bUZemhNmC4-V0hMbf5zNWz2/s320/E47F8313-CE74-4DCD-AD26-3DB466FEA1B8.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyW_SntMQYijVL3N7CnbAXGDmgG6jnuwAG8Dfpiiwh2dAAfezAUhIGaJCWW-4qPUlGomzDe7UzkZLoqLZdru0dbbQrew5YoRkjNRrxnJmLxo-A2HqeBeYwpgwPNn_m4HXLQ4M_5Xpnshz7LkfmuzOEr2SlDP2pvuHk_e1bJ1ww_D0BGutco3HEsQUp/s3847/93FA1AD6-8207-4779-A0FD-EA16C3459A12.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1798" data-original-width="3847" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyW_SntMQYijVL3N7CnbAXGDmgG6jnuwAG8Dfpiiwh2dAAfezAUhIGaJCWW-4qPUlGomzDe7UzkZLoqLZdru0dbbQrew5YoRkjNRrxnJmLxo-A2HqeBeYwpgwPNn_m4HXLQ4M_5Xpnshz7LkfmuzOEr2SlDP2pvuHk_e1bJ1ww_D0BGutco3HEsQUp/s320/93FA1AD6-8207-4779-A0FD-EA16C3459A12.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk2xWtBtOLMo5piUm-tEF3jqjC46PPlDaZs3QY-8Ioxyw0pmjAPHxhe4qhWB9P3xIC9i1jXRQIJE_7lHKcqwcMylcwx7v6ANVc72JS1pLVa7W3wY6VMnSaqseDmVmy2aR_krxxCyb5f7TJT2tsXLdtj-UOVljBqshYJ_XWhM2PvryEb3Lh555bO0Gh/s4029/56E34521-A529-4909-AFB3-4CAC244859FE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1974" data-original-width="4029" height="157" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk2xWtBtOLMo5piUm-tEF3jqjC46PPlDaZs3QY-8Ioxyw0pmjAPHxhe4qhWB9P3xIC9i1jXRQIJE_7lHKcqwcMylcwx7v6ANVc72JS1pLVa7W3wY6VMnSaqseDmVmy2aR_krxxCyb5f7TJT2tsXLdtj-UOVljBqshYJ_XWhM2PvryEb3Lh555bO0Gh/s320/56E34521-A529-4909-AFB3-4CAC244859FE.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGmgm0GG1l5VB9Ces-yPMw3T6cCMZzuYH1zY3HF_BTXTdcz4P1US-uG-7YLmg2ze1xHcBebPIYKcOsvH7OirFjN38zxe4MVgqMqgC2m9KygcQ1AF05lt5DYTPAmcGC45i3F0_USKef1B4QSH0RQM5jtyHTm_arWT3q_r2LVmrpYjUrxgj_9llsm21z/s4031/18428DDA-AECC-4077-9F25-71F0BCCD8FD8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2664" data-original-width="4031" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGmgm0GG1l5VB9Ces-yPMw3T6cCMZzuYH1zY3HF_BTXTdcz4P1US-uG-7YLmg2ze1xHcBebPIYKcOsvH7OirFjN38zxe4MVgqMqgC2m9KygcQ1AF05lt5DYTPAmcGC45i3F0_USKef1B4QSH0RQM5jtyHTm_arWT3q_r2LVmrpYjUrxgj_9llsm21z/s320/18428DDA-AECC-4077-9F25-71F0BCCD8FD8.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Next up: the tabs.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Like the shoulder wings, the tabs don't have any canvas interlining and consist only of the brown wool and black linen lining.</div><div style="text-align: left;">I choose not to line these in the traditional way since the two front tabs had rather extreme points that I knew would be difficult to work around. So instead I tried something a little different.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">First, the wool is basted to the black linen lining with large, loose pad stitches. The lining is cut with an extra 3/8" seam allowance along all edges (expect for the top).</div><div style="text-align: left;">Then the tab is placed over knee/thigh to form a natural curve (lining side down) and the wool is stitched to the lining along the outer edges.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgXdLry4pqjKMmVrJTrBtgAaQLLnNzW9KOBXgkJOAvG9J2cscMnefBqqdnXKIY-JNX76TX4Veo9psY9gsKVCq8_-tpDYH2fIl5WSpsDxwEk5xupK2xojivaKv-R6DQyv0YETutzRZeAprVaHr2jENTiVL-FOyfxZ2hIrLfhj84z8jeH9M8CxMkyLQ/s2497/0B64787D-064C-4F0D-BF92-573D42AC7FC8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1864" data-original-width="2497" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgXdLry4pqjKMmVrJTrBtgAaQLLnNzW9KOBXgkJOAvG9J2cscMnefBqqdnXKIY-JNX76TX4Veo9psY9gsKVCq8_-tpDYH2fIl5WSpsDxwEk5xupK2xojivaKv-R6DQyv0YETutzRZeAprVaHr2jENTiVL-FOyfxZ2hIrLfhj84z8jeH9M8CxMkyLQ/s320/0B64787D-064C-4F0D-BF92-573D42AC7FC8.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then the bottom edge is folded over and stitched own the wool on the right side.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsDy03vSuspRp5lNhEVFUTAOQ0jsUrWEiBvDYWGeEV0L6xoA4JAf2l8vTmmDXqdO7AKtCl7K60IztqbZyuTESPt60_jluULMZPCRAgk-5EZCcLD2ze-nw973mPzMC5VEfH0T2p_nnWJWOe55vjoTMHE7E_4QKJ1GAOatSMvw-T3cgH4-G_bjRY8f52/s3023/91501796-F1B9-41D5-9D32-CE02321F2D0B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2759" data-original-width="3023" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsDy03vSuspRp5lNhEVFUTAOQ0jsUrWEiBvDYWGeEV0L6xoA4JAf2l8vTmmDXqdO7AKtCl7K60IztqbZyuTESPt60_jluULMZPCRAgk-5EZCcLD2ze-nw973mPzMC5VEfH0T2p_nnWJWOe55vjoTMHE7E_4QKJ1GAOatSMvw-T3cgH4-G_bjRY8f52/s320/91501796-F1B9-41D5-9D32-CE02321F2D0B.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div style="text-align: left;">This is repeated on the two side edges.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKSxHOJupXs034paB5LFh6dE5MpSiOoisFcehs4VNLI6ZNPjnMHKJjzHxMN7vGVy3IcmfRqwOowtcZtG3x4UcyccXLeErvvLdfhBKZsrJB0FvoNTck-c2f4hzBo16cnOrKlvBqxpgTrx3AWKB_ds_KMVkWKXZ-qfxC_-2GXy-qOP-w1cNfPECDsPL/s3448/CE6D40C1-C87F-42E6-98CF-AB90700FE7F7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3448" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKSxHOJupXs034paB5LFh6dE5MpSiOoisFcehs4VNLI6ZNPjnMHKJjzHxMN7vGVy3IcmfRqwOowtcZtG3x4UcyccXLeErvvLdfhBKZsrJB0FvoNTck-c2f4hzBo16cnOrKlvBqxpgTrx3AWKB_ds_KMVkWKXZ-qfxC_-2GXy-qOP-w1cNfPECDsPL/s320/CE6D40C1-C87F-42E6-98CF-AB90700FE7F7.jpeg" width="281" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX6mXGAQuIxfasxOv-45gwggP2VpFBNv6ahVViOh3b_-7zl8ID2IdDrYLj_AtAqSbzQOUvKt8W3Jg9Q0DfB3nuOyLgOB_qxZeI1OmbLAK-TCLVZWdOMlDdpWGHc6JDyA9rgsydQWq7RDVCEivJ_3-tGqgxPxKSUU_GeLO6P9_yqYIWgefqpuRKrZPR/s1861/B6071381-9438-4BDF-82F2-5BCD64138639.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1419" data-original-width="1861" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX6mXGAQuIxfasxOv-45gwggP2VpFBNv6ahVViOh3b_-7zl8ID2IdDrYLj_AtAqSbzQOUvKt8W3Jg9Q0DfB3nuOyLgOB_qxZeI1OmbLAK-TCLVZWdOMlDdpWGHc6JDyA9rgsydQWq7RDVCEivJ_3-tGqgxPxKSUU_GeLO6P9_yqYIWgefqpuRKrZPR/s320/B6071381-9438-4BDF-82F2-5BCD64138639.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then the worsted wool trim is stitched down, covering the raw edges of the linen.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBTl0a8z_qtB5lMPAHjQEoKbd0vAmclvuEgMNTU2wwEsWDC0mQIhSgKd6m0LBQPt-BYHhNnoBTb-h4zhscdOWZ1sBlZFi2DAbpeVoGi95g47BR81XUyvxW4TUhmYBMO8BV5-kFEswPjE1jxlw3TXwTXitd0maIq_kvnH3M9tkXDZtpJ3HsitlOkfx2/s3594/12F10D06-3B0B-4A68-B50A-DCFD4E433F92.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3594" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBTl0a8z_qtB5lMPAHjQEoKbd0vAmclvuEgMNTU2wwEsWDC0mQIhSgKd6m0LBQPt-BYHhNnoBTb-h4zhscdOWZ1sBlZFi2DAbpeVoGi95g47BR81XUyvxW4TUhmYBMO8BV5-kFEswPjE1jxlw3TXwTXitd0maIq_kvnH3M9tkXDZtpJ3HsitlOkfx2/s320/12F10D06-3B0B-4A68-B50A-DCFD4E433F92.jpeg" width="269" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4JXa4paRyE6yE2Di3Mb-eQXxBRuBqtTyZJSQKHldJoWCe5-Q-OsLXM-2GCwx4LfM08bfbtKEmLt3GkQ1Ytt-9LEykcDs5fs4oPAfuWqemvI99vYpBHc-17VQ-oXBEHX-xCDKRYGdWHs7eJtSlYgOo9sYdIbS_mddu1ffQk-exYYKYgQ4MhfxdLfyD/s2566/B88448A4-3ACE-43EA-82F1-92A54103B2A7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2277" data-original-width="2566" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4JXa4paRyE6yE2Di3Mb-eQXxBRuBqtTyZJSQKHldJoWCe5-Q-OsLXM-2GCwx4LfM08bfbtKEmLt3GkQ1Ytt-9LEykcDs5fs4oPAfuWqemvI99vYpBHc-17VQ-oXBEHX-xCDKRYGdWHs7eJtSlYgOo9sYdIbS_mddu1ffQk-exYYKYgQ4MhfxdLfyD/s320/B88448A4-3ACE-43EA-82F1-92A54103B2A7.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is repeated for all the tabs. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-proh0cqa15-eca_kGOfUKaWn8jmE5UhAGENpH3HO5fB5PxlcZF2g_IwuTjyQuEwXGGV43ON023SAuW7E0UemGRXanTN03OB2m7yI1JNQzY3dbkrNS9b3_sn6kbQqMuvt_54m5y2x3AJN2QXhKdteCUmyyXmneBf9lri29KAt1ovHj9SzsgfVIgij/s3609/A9C12530-0A08-44EC-8CF8-AB955A2A1270.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2838" data-original-width="3609" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-proh0cqa15-eca_kGOfUKaWn8jmE5UhAGENpH3HO5fB5PxlcZF2g_IwuTjyQuEwXGGV43ON023SAuW7E0UemGRXanTN03OB2m7yI1JNQzY3dbkrNS9b3_sn6kbQqMuvt_54m5y2x3AJN2QXhKdteCUmyyXmneBf9lri29KAt1ovHj9SzsgfVIgij/s320/A9C12530-0A08-44EC-8CF8-AB955A2A1270.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I had originally intended to have a double row of trim on the tabs (as seen in my earlier sketch) but by this point COVID had hit. Supply chains had started to become disrupted and I wasn't able to get any more narrow worsted wool trim. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I had to make do with what was in my stash and I knew I didn't have enough to do another row of trim on the tabs and finish the sleeves...so single row it is!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next the finished tabs are basted to the doublet with temporary stitches to check the placement.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihsqGhuiLfgd6dQbu54CYFL_lT-3mBzeXrKgj6Z3pX6s4Gc-4REVs4kLiTk2fMEJo0QJIqWdcspqRY-6XG0E6jrnPwVOoKg_KZXZ_JLG9SiTKdnuD9RKhu30YbLsoFL4Hf6x25bVpuMqjcBdAtAMgtvHTSRqcbzma4FwFdadmBJyTaA5cjJXrurBTy/s3432/A579D45D-4D1D-4B4C-A672-AD5C9E2FBBFE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3432" data-original-width="2667" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihsqGhuiLfgd6dQbu54CYFL_lT-3mBzeXrKgj6Z3pX6s4Gc-4REVs4kLiTk2fMEJo0QJIqWdcspqRY-6XG0E6jrnPwVOoKg_KZXZ_JLG9SiTKdnuD9RKhu30YbLsoFL4Hf6x25bVpuMqjcBdAtAMgtvHTSRqcbzma4FwFdadmBJyTaA5cjJXrurBTy/s320/A579D45D-4D1D-4B4C-A672-AD5C9E2FBBFE.jpeg" width="249" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDl2Gst_bPPE6rK3PU3Fj-WdhVW2lD-j5cb2IhZiSnu8CyCd9r2nmmqigT1NVDbO1wbju7OQ7Dq38prjCqpGFolCoj3pebTNZcUXtFkwfuuftf9EM3PnXkCt9BWdo1SNjj6FBUEmFSofPgb4_xLPQtcn_7gIzBiJw5kE0lyVxFDiel8oh3ltyhOrqX/s3046/38819ED7-F5F0-4837-A6DA-4290590F2289.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3046" data-original-width="2342" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDl2Gst_bPPE6rK3PU3Fj-WdhVW2lD-j5cb2IhZiSnu8CyCd9r2nmmqigT1NVDbO1wbju7OQ7Dq38prjCqpGFolCoj3pebTNZcUXtFkwfuuftf9EM3PnXkCt9BWdo1SNjj6FBUEmFSofPgb4_xLPQtcn_7gIzBiJw5kE0lyVxFDiel8oh3ltyhOrqX/s320/38819ED7-F5F0-4837-A6DA-4290590F2289.jpeg" width="246" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilB6zsZV9KmtnswCtny_pq1Ca0RBnNMiY4qMESzA-aok7zTnLkaw-EX1FNVIqxb1d48kaRXT6PPg4NCI7uavBAGdabCJwGZbCDm_XKVzYHZZK2k9Wm8dhNROgCFVHZwklz4gf32iepXVAwGzFpQi8l31X6vLr1Q-D1J2gl8bbr1_wkHil4zUQq6GTT/s3633/CBAF1B5A-4BF5-4BC9-A907-158CF4BFF169.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2655" data-original-width="3633" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilB6zsZV9KmtnswCtny_pq1Ca0RBnNMiY4qMESzA-aok7zTnLkaw-EX1FNVIqxb1d48kaRXT6PPg4NCI7uavBAGdabCJwGZbCDm_XKVzYHZZK2k9Wm8dhNROgCFVHZwklz4gf32iepXVAwGzFpQi8l31X6vLr1Q-D1J2gl8bbr1_wkHil4zUQq6GTT/s320/CBAF1B5A-4BF5-4BC9-A907-158CF4BFF169.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I try the doublet on and it's at this point that I realize I've made a mistake.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I had started with quite long tabs in my mockup, but thought they were pushing a bit too far into the 17thC and so cut them down (you can see the two sizes in my mockup photos at the start of this post).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But when I went to make up the final tabs I'd clearly gotten my pattern pieces mixed up and cut the larger size!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As mentioned above, I definitely didn't have enough black trim to remake them and didn't really have the heart to tear them apart and try to salvage the trim that I had.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Also, at this point I really didn't have the energy to really care (again...COVID).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So the weirdly big tabs stayed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirxDJLExpHXWK7lkS6I6Yv0e8PxDG3w1uM76pXQvrPfiIUYE49LxAAQo-K_Saz1P1lKwi2iD8EdWhBbM_3UvNahzXfDjxBNICTRJGoQi6XT-Gvwcg7FPqt6kZsSkwor5BZt7O405hPg3Cd_8iSck8DLunnrZiHQ7umZ-SukYNK7IZYua40oUMEc_08/s3044/4089E469-3607-4D06-8C0E-BE318AF67A32.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3044" data-original-width="1926" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirxDJLExpHXWK7lkS6I6Yv0e8PxDG3w1uM76pXQvrPfiIUYE49LxAAQo-K_Saz1P1lKwi2iD8EdWhBbM_3UvNahzXfDjxBNICTRJGoQi6XT-Gvwcg7FPqt6kZsSkwor5BZt7O405hPg3Cd_8iSck8DLunnrZiHQ7umZ-SukYNK7IZYua40oUMEc_08/s320/4089E469-3607-4D06-8C0E-BE318AF67A32.jpeg" width="202" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBua9bIBtnSAEf-72Msn0AIsNuwe9_d30hSrS8md5OvlWPspSQhEhrv1I0AIlwpIh4YqZWcUw0_wvK4CjH9wF2ohKhSSnUTy254ZgoIvAOo-3uczxuCEoo08JvFKqOcHT2E7QDJT1bZ2uLenFObyCEHaREXmWdqT8w7NGJg_wSBjQssSpVhoUi_raV/s3406/D49DDCEC-D0DD-40CB-9271-D94A7C6848B5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3406" data-original-width="1930" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBua9bIBtnSAEf-72Msn0AIsNuwe9_d30hSrS8md5OvlWPspSQhEhrv1I0AIlwpIh4YqZWcUw0_wvK4CjH9wF2ohKhSSnUTy254ZgoIvAOo-3uczxuCEoo08JvFKqOcHT2E7QDJT1bZ2uLenFObyCEHaREXmWdqT8w7NGJg_wSBjQssSpVhoUi_raV/s320/D49DDCEC-D0DD-40CB-9271-D94A7C6848B5.jpeg" width="181" /></a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Moving on to the sleeve!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A quick aside...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Clearly, I'd lost some momentum at this point because the photo documentation starts to get pretty thin from here on out. (And without the images for reference, trying to remember what I did 2+ years ago is getting trickier!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Anyway, the sleeves are first joined along the back seam (after marking the shoulder and armpit in thread). Then the black trim is stitched down along the finished seam. It's easier to apply the trim flat, which I prefer to do along the back seam. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then the front seam is closed and the trim added.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSI3C5woqGx-29wKNPTgCY0gwM-OweT8kvm6J8_3BSqj2lYf7ewDF2GaCAu1aBFdvYcYxrq2FDNUq3yJN4keH6qULc_DEwuplFvdD1X9rZZAWVIPJ9hNrGtjgo72BzyGTSKEENrrwAdhQrYcirPrR4cfbCWLLfOFmZlJCg94dO5xCZ_6hLdcsPMWt3/s4032/089DCD7D-EEF0-4C74-B14E-DAEE77D2357D.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSI3C5woqGx-29wKNPTgCY0gwM-OweT8kvm6J8_3BSqj2lYf7ewDF2GaCAu1aBFdvYcYxrq2FDNUq3yJN4keH6qULc_DEwuplFvdD1X9rZZAWVIPJ9hNrGtjgo72BzyGTSKEENrrwAdhQrYcirPrR4cfbCWLLfOFmZlJCg94dO5xCZ_6hLdcsPMWt3/s320/089DCD7D-EEF0-4C74-B14E-DAEE77D2357D.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1jaHawTwJq1HKvSHCY30_JY9Sz5QQ5a5s3CNLH-w_AjueCfHiSqcEiVOZViAQfG2QS06hjSt9MSvzD1svBFMTCmrjOsIpZZD6wpXL_lO_pcOUX_5QdX0Q0W42xQSFcD8ZggIDqpKvCXJbNNUxSZZB7gwVl1UOOFbgtB5cHh-j9tEgEQWu3YxUIvc/s2630/98EA4656-E2B6-4961-9F16-E6530B4C14DA.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2630" data-original-width="1842" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1jaHawTwJq1HKvSHCY30_JY9Sz5QQ5a5s3CNLH-w_AjueCfHiSqcEiVOZViAQfG2QS06hjSt9MSvzD1svBFMTCmrjOsIpZZD6wpXL_lO_pcOUX_5QdX0Q0W42xQSFcD8ZggIDqpKvCXJbNNUxSZZB7gwVl1UOOFbgtB5cHh-j9tEgEQWu3YxUIvc/s320/98EA4656-E2B6-4961-9F16-E6530B4C14DA.jpeg" width="224" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRjakt692HIpwMMNV-xmsc4T2Glr5nldRDs8X8OAY6ScMsyZVoW4RyVNFZxpD8luRMUdhh0R3LD6fRwXkVW0Ruhn9Ogprnjb9OX_zHUTs7vy0-GxPdRL_Q13Rd2PMxutK-KS2drFpCkdIREB8T70erDjEXeRaGMNxQ4fTz1ObOA23SmdlGR6Mw3wKW/s2597/F9B04765-F93A-494E-9361-BF7EA5DFBCEC.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2597" data-original-width="1734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRjakt692HIpwMMNV-xmsc4T2Glr5nldRDs8X8OAY6ScMsyZVoW4RyVNFZxpD8luRMUdhh0R3LD6fRwXkVW0Ruhn9Ogprnjb9OX_zHUTs7vy0-GxPdRL_Q13Rd2PMxutK-KS2drFpCkdIREB8T70erDjEXeRaGMNxQ4fTz1ObOA23SmdlGR6Mw3wKW/s320/F9B04765-F93A-494E-9361-BF7EA5DFBCEC.jpeg" width="214" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next, the sleeve is sewn into the armscye.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarmVFt9J-Q6WcF2dcg7Co3pdYj9JirRVbMak-HHKNVCB89NMSBNJT-tJGbdZI6m5_RQY90p1F5ykT1Oa6M2luY2caRjeDqa2gkm2y3rCXJA619pe7mOsvuer6Yk8WCErbEBPzEPFYibGpqfnw4pkUpNx-KHuAwdhxzwVSxyfdnAPHh7vASMU3cRCr/s3024/4DFA53C1-A4D7-4073-9F3C-57A50D20C5D7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2819" data-original-width="3024" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarmVFt9J-Q6WcF2dcg7Co3pdYj9JirRVbMak-HHKNVCB89NMSBNJT-tJGbdZI6m5_RQY90p1F5ykT1Oa6M2luY2caRjeDqa2gkm2y3rCXJA619pe7mOsvuer6Yk8WCErbEBPzEPFYibGpqfnw4pkUpNx-KHuAwdhxzwVSxyfdnAPHh7vASMU3cRCr/s320/4DFA53C1-A4D7-4073-9F3C-57A50D20C5D7.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The doublet is tried on one more time to check the sleeve length.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(Also, look how well that collar is popping because of the pad stitching!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM430NW5EWOn8RXt-fWOV2zngVszH7-laIAyi82EnwtosBDvmQPZrBQCyW8Vrp6L9jFO2XOm2uFfa8TXeOMFKAEtc88yEiEvp5Z1574pikInCOLBUhJasIEoAHWt2-1MgowAO7WHJfdHE05FQg1KsCosAgqtcyFOVACcKEWOoFgsE7d7c5luLd1uQf/s3314/1BDE35E7-A46C-4425-B38E-0F26C9F30575.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3314" data-original-width="1998" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM430NW5EWOn8RXt-fWOV2zngVszH7-laIAyi82EnwtosBDvmQPZrBQCyW8Vrp6L9jFO2XOm2uFfa8TXeOMFKAEtc88yEiEvp5Z1574pikInCOLBUhJasIEoAHWt2-1MgowAO7WHJfdHE05FQg1KsCosAgqtcyFOVACcKEWOoFgsE7d7c5luLd1uQf/s320/1BDE35E7-A46C-4425-B38E-0F26C9F30575.jpeg" width="193" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMkRnCV-5LKrIuIYlgtUi9sSiFuf1S8CTPxu62InCkFBpLq37Ct9JuXRnZ3TR9P7cNWAmVvLOlGSzjQm4Ni-U-LFvoNWc_UVUzljlOInj7-tKRrVgMnzDycC5BccEAnsaNYLY_Nwo9iioxKlVANnf1VihtbA4S56VtPnSNdkabzxOut7Q89s2fsklE/s3375/45527B94-2B6E-4A19-AE52-03A311E5CCED.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3375" data-original-width="2027" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMkRnCV-5LKrIuIYlgtUi9sSiFuf1S8CTPxu62InCkFBpLq37Ct9JuXRnZ3TR9P7cNWAmVvLOlGSzjQm4Ni-U-LFvoNWc_UVUzljlOInj7-tKRrVgMnzDycC5BccEAnsaNYLY_Nwo9iioxKlVANnf1VihtbA4S56VtPnSNdkabzxOut7Q89s2fsklE/s320/45527B94-2B6E-4A19-AE52-03A311E5CCED.jpeg" width="192" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2aXweWWUTWLcVU02xj0YOevUnBPYW8HJ5uTzFyhxefJFXUcrWp1PJNeUsF7e9BbnsG70mPTnKSDxjQbfEpbv2o9sf3TcOrSIO43DslVAKSmnI7GR-9_uSfC1wO58ob-bEvH_J8teM2qFBlJjcb8ahDUHN_FZvsMcrHk8iyD-byH738zAaI-WQYXOt/s3156/CF6E8D94-101F-4492-994F-45FA2AF58A28.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3156" data-original-width="1765" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2aXweWWUTWLcVU02xj0YOevUnBPYW8HJ5uTzFyhxefJFXUcrWp1PJNeUsF7e9BbnsG70mPTnKSDxjQbfEpbv2o9sf3TcOrSIO43DslVAKSmnI7GR-9_uSfC1wO58ob-bEvH_J8teM2qFBlJjcb8ahDUHN_FZvsMcrHk8iyD-byH738zAaI-WQYXOt/s320/CF6E8D94-101F-4492-994F-45FA2AF58A28.jpeg" width="179" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the length adjusted, the sleeves are finished at the wrist and the lining sewn down.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5NarYxG6Ax1bDZnufyscJFTKzpaRZsIECYFMIo043VrFAzEf-siR4F7mAe28IzHsdIzh7lsjGulgkPkGRh5fBphTAEb7-vnDBWt-8-ztNJN8VXxujzoG6rFEiQQIGnz5Lr9u10l4OBs-uVGcBE_kHVwwj4SmnfYrdUQm_L4pPDFS4MLzH6VBMAHUB/s3085/5036B3BB-141C-4C14-8CEB-DF48768C3968.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3085" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5NarYxG6Ax1bDZnufyscJFTKzpaRZsIECYFMIo043VrFAzEf-siR4F7mAe28IzHsdIzh7lsjGulgkPkGRh5fBphTAEb7-vnDBWt-8-ztNJN8VXxujzoG6rFEiQQIGnz5Lr9u10l4OBs-uVGcBE_kHVwwj4SmnfYrdUQm_L4pPDFS4MLzH6VBMAHUB/s320/5036B3BB-141C-4C14-8CEB-DF48768C3968.jpeg" width="314" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, it's time to line the body of the doublet.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">First the lining is stitched down around the armscye and at the collar.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPTna5k3zmz4Ux0Yqsc3vgZIgIreTngs0NtwYaLcCboJGim1NI9eAkeJwBQbEMu0WhoFNq9GkGGq-ibm2Rqiq_GZn-F2sqsYBJGhgtVhWP7MFjhwj4fG43bR1fhUzhPlhD_Xcdy36hkjRcHOqPmciqDLtrE524os_T-weuLfhRhU8YbKArM_Tx-vQl/s3690/2421DD27-AE0B-4923-A59B-5EFC3A4570CB.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3690" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPTna5k3zmz4Ux0Yqsc3vgZIgIreTngs0NtwYaLcCboJGim1NI9eAkeJwBQbEMu0WhoFNq9GkGGq-ibm2Rqiq_GZn-F2sqsYBJGhgtVhWP7MFjhwj4fG43bR1fhUzhPlhD_Xcdy36hkjRcHOqPmciqDLtrE524os_T-weuLfhRhU8YbKArM_Tx-vQl/s320/2421DD27-AE0B-4923-A59B-5EFC3A4570CB.jpeg" width="262" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhypa2M1MRZqBoZ5O22jaGi6VLUMzeEtQvo7zW-ExwB_tgZrSX9JswNgj748z2xUE5nDSm7Wgx_dG2ggHVnDeSrrBPTd_dv-q4iPb41UH9dP2FVzIcuu7kA_ee1GgeSpbjAD0BxaDU96hjyQD_IPIcisDKRr3KZOnxS58JgnU93gLK3ks1u6jukw3tX/s4030/A37DA729-1528-4E9C-9A40-86D62BFB7C73.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2792" data-original-width="4030" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhypa2M1MRZqBoZ5O22jaGi6VLUMzeEtQvo7zW-ExwB_tgZrSX9JswNgj748z2xUE5nDSm7Wgx_dG2ggHVnDeSrrBPTd_dv-q4iPb41UH9dP2FVzIcuu7kA_ee1GgeSpbjAD0BxaDU96hjyQD_IPIcisDKRr3KZOnxS58JgnU93gLK3ks1u6jukw3tX/s320/A37DA729-1528-4E9C-9A40-86D62BFB7C73.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then the lining is pinned into place along the front and bottom edges before being finished with a fell stitch.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii0A35gJis5FqsRQJsiHq4S0-RDlgss9D7Vzfth8V1IK5L_Iq_EB1HicZY8zCHeorP76Eei5Bwd6x2nhPbkzU9hF36NY5EW_cnyKWs_hcCIwHsH5Sb5BJTO2zz4KYpD87ynpgFuUM0DLhapWEDCQ2ovcDRKZ_A0RHb4NaNSYVdXW9HzItxZINJkQvB/s3602/8CA39B2E-4A42-40ED-BBD8-0DC6310AFCE9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2424" data-original-width="3602" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii0A35gJis5FqsRQJsiHq4S0-RDlgss9D7Vzfth8V1IK5L_Iq_EB1HicZY8zCHeorP76Eei5Bwd6x2nhPbkzU9hF36NY5EW_cnyKWs_hcCIwHsH5Sb5BJTO2zz4KYpD87ynpgFuUM0DLhapWEDCQ2ovcDRKZ_A0RHb4NaNSYVdXW9HzItxZINJkQvB/s320/8CA39B2E-4A42-40ED-BBD8-0DC6310AFCE9.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQfm4Fs_p9GErKMo0qyWnPWkw0TXEyhboi8P81ej5l7TDoVtLw8VUJflpoATqXTnx5sWQsU9lkeZczjO3KZUvSarg_cPFDjdcr4BpQg5-nqRuubMh4duFi6eHEoi10b2AEyIJDDUMhINY7BpOJ_VnBi5ZQIW_3E4zfC1HG82ldJ6JbmO8fcjemRE3w/s3855/634BAD05-941D-455B-8CC4-2441B414A96F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3855" data-original-width="2324" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQfm4Fs_p9GErKMo0qyWnPWkw0TXEyhboi8P81ej5l7TDoVtLw8VUJflpoATqXTnx5sWQsU9lkeZczjO3KZUvSarg_cPFDjdcr4BpQg5-nqRuubMh4duFi6eHEoi10b2AEyIJDDUMhINY7BpOJ_VnBi5ZQIW_3E4zfC1HG82ldJ6JbmO8fcjemRE3w/s320/634BAD05-941D-455B-8CC4-2441B414A96F.jpeg" width="193" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiWmIjsmSUK62zBAb8ScBFGw8nrlcef67EsxoVsa_A6RdHm2YM2RVoXGv9cPfrLMGGRUEL68KAY1hn5ehH0MlZwC9zm2A9NsM0Hl7v0jyo87hb9Qg5QsOn2QOne61gDCGjbNE4h5oSKJ4-fazQVFmFSAlwFBmmhccOQsvncVke74fXLiL2toMeqoUp/s4031/238A071A-55FD-4011-AB29-D2B2A78C937E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2714" data-original-width="4031" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiWmIjsmSUK62zBAb8ScBFGw8nrlcef67EsxoVsa_A6RdHm2YM2RVoXGv9cPfrLMGGRUEL68KAY1hn5ehH0MlZwC9zm2A9NsM0Hl7v0jyo87hb9Qg5QsOn2QOne61gDCGjbNE4h5oSKJ4-fazQVFmFSAlwFBmmhccOQsvncVke74fXLiL2toMeqoUp/s320/238A071A-55FD-4011-AB29-D2B2A78C937E.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the doublet lined and finished the front closures can now be added.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But I don't...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...for nearly a year.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In fact I don't have any other construction photos past this point. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I wasn't able to source the heavy duty hook and eye tape I'd come to like, and by now lock-down stress and snacking meant that the doublet no longer fit me anyway.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So it wallowed on the unfinished project pile for some time.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Eventually the hook and eye tape came back into stock and I was able to finish it off. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I don't have any photos of the process, but here are the rough steps...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The hook and eye tape was sewn in several passes:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">1) The front edge is worked with a fell stitch</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">2) A spaced backstitch secures the tape, catching as much as the interlining as possible (without <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span>breaking through to the body fabric). This pass also secures the hooks and eyes themselves more <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span>securely into place to prevent gapping.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">3) Another row on spaced backstitches is run right under the hooks and eyes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">4) A last row of fell stitches connects the edge of the tape to the lining.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(<i>NOTE: </i>These images do not show the doublet, but an older back fitted gown I made --but have yet to photograph-- using the same technique)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYlhY5eMSmfnjB8eC5Dv5NZZpQH-T666QxxFsP0KQKQYG_TEQLEcuVa7xSRJ88JLBzj1r46tqx4yJbEiMWOGHDyvBu9yFmZjWqdco-vpAdlwJC-h4-7-Yct8sSgB30o8K9OGQoXRqS2-BsFHJdXJGxauOohG8BDlX-E-nB7aYIvbtQaBUWNId4lMoz/s1401/7DD42E57-B2C4-4FCC-98DE-6E6812776D21.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1134" data-original-width="1401" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYlhY5eMSmfnjB8eC5Dv5NZZpQH-T666QxxFsP0KQKQYG_TEQLEcuVa7xSRJ88JLBzj1r46tqx4yJbEiMWOGHDyvBu9yFmZjWqdco-vpAdlwJC-h4-7-Yct8sSgB30o8K9OGQoXRqS2-BsFHJdXJGxauOohG8BDlX-E-nB7aYIvbtQaBUWNId4lMoz/s320/7DD42E57-B2C4-4FCC-98DE-6E6812776D21.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIHS80WiTeQG9eqtRvdaohm4bqMw_Zfsp2h4bLsKA9-H5FmNlgCHMOczv2nJ9lGLTdgg6-ptdQV3-BIlFZRTd7BjoJXAqHKtmUEkkEhKaXd7t_s7dvxvc_EIGzu5bfHxEw6c1Xll96NSt8MzmfJd_jjCAd0gkREWr5NOt3ZcWP4i8gvH44ALwKm0wy/s1450/0602563E-C435-41F2-9A0F-0D64C49B193B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="788" data-original-width="1450" height="174" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIHS80WiTeQG9eqtRvdaohm4bqMw_Zfsp2h4bLsKA9-H5FmNlgCHMOczv2nJ9lGLTdgg6-ptdQV3-BIlFZRTd7BjoJXAqHKtmUEkkEhKaXd7t_s7dvxvc_EIGzu5bfHxEw6c1Xll96NSt8MzmfJd_jjCAd0gkREWr5NOt3ZcWP4i8gvH44ALwKm0wy/s320/0602563E-C435-41F2-9A0F-0D64C49B193B.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It might seem like overkill (and probably is) but I find this really keeps the hooks and eyes from flapping open and therefore significantly reduces gapping along the front edge.</div></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJVbWmQtcKQc0HOzkLt8LUMEV9n-WZo63DRwUB4MsgKov7BWvk6GFh1Uw_EZdtS-b6RTkqHfaFEwEXFqKVzkp-Z1wXZWQJHcXoV8BorwP55dgSqMrOsMVdnw570DT4H3ozakmNl-P9pMiXpVsN3yr-hcRo6iXt-J3SFjF4wbqBmlk0R1MwLAJEKZUM/s1664/E205F316-4005-4485-A173-19B03311A63B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1598" data-original-width="1664" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJVbWmQtcKQc0HOzkLt8LUMEV9n-WZo63DRwUB4MsgKov7BWvk6GFh1Uw_EZdtS-b6RTkqHfaFEwEXFqKVzkp-Z1wXZWQJHcXoV8BorwP55dgSqMrOsMVdnw570DT4H3ozakmNl-P9pMiXpVsN3yr-hcRo6iXt-J3SFjF4wbqBmlk0R1MwLAJEKZUM/s320/E205F316-4005-4485-A173-19B03311A63B.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And <i>SOMEHOW</i> the doublet fits. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Barely, but it fits...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It then it sat in the closet for nearly another year as I put off photographing it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">One of the reasons in that I debated the over stying for quite a while. I couldn't settle on the right accessories because I found the whole look changed considerably based on what it was paired with (with some accessories pushing it well into the 1620s or 30s).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the end I settled on simple a ruff, cuffs and coif.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The ruff is the <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2015/11/late-period-ruff.html">first one</a> I made back in the day. It's 3.25" wide and has been reset with slightly smaller, 2" wide sets.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXp0q1d-5CxjOimiCuEhPBcj_wJ9rj1wy3Q37GhtFO0UdyabGSdzj0m6Oe-pnA17ZhI3LBKRimVtx33Wn_WsNH3OpMr7HUaqXvQt9uM4AvYJzvUtX3RyCiV6nsXwC3dLb8VZLPDEosD26ThgsH4HeKRHV5bGR9b3w9XnVlFfDzvuJ2cR31o72tRxg0/s3257/97B861D8-3118-43C9-967A-D85610861DC8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1946" data-original-width="3257" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXp0q1d-5CxjOimiCuEhPBcj_wJ9rj1wy3Q37GhtFO0UdyabGSdzj0m6Oe-pnA17ZhI3LBKRimVtx33Wn_WsNH3OpMr7HUaqXvQt9uM4AvYJzvUtX3RyCiV6nsXwC3dLb8VZLPDEosD26ThgsH4HeKRHV5bGR9b3w9XnVlFfDzvuJ2cR31o72tRxg0/w400-h239/97B861D8-3118-43C9-967A-D85610861DC8.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pictured with my small 1.5" ruff</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The cuffs are simple linen bands, pleated and sewn to a wrist band. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The pleats are folded but not stitched down. This creates a softer look and I believe this style is called a "tulip cuff"...but I know can't find where I read that, so maybe I made it up. I wouldn't put is past me...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdtllxTdysOsePZr33fDHmAeOooG6BZ0l7iYQjvglEUw71bjT4iY6CwKPYiaCU34DdEIZfrVwyPMya8oY6TTD74iZWvOKPxIf0f634y0W5X5BksWMRwbuhW2Lgs8cZGCaNqOc3-mJ5FJ7M9Ab7UQjfbT3KpReiLQ2UQSUIsjQbl7ERWHAArJfAzgz-/s2961/9C23142B-3320-4549-B921-8F3362338614.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2961" data-original-width="2899" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdtllxTdysOsePZr33fDHmAeOooG6BZ0l7iYQjvglEUw71bjT4iY6CwKPYiaCU34DdEIZfrVwyPMya8oY6TTD74iZWvOKPxIf0f634y0W5X5BksWMRwbuhW2Lgs8cZGCaNqOc3-mJ5FJ7M9Ab7UQjfbT3KpReiLQ2UQSUIsjQbl7ERWHAArJfAzgz-/s320/9C23142B-3320-4549-B921-8F3362338614.jpeg" width="313" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieVI4BPbauxBcfFdkV9xcUYgUBhiJ3759-O5sEvK76wvGxdx5b_7ZXLeJnOiA4MWTU5yh-9qm2D8T0KWYpJ-cNSC-OxhON9k322TJ19AGaJ8yGhtw3JsjgQmiR9r_1iEPj2EcUESX7Edft1DLg0oeXY-nOVQE5ioOb8000eyJD3p2HNebGFhgbOLwV/s3998/BC8964E3-FC13-4DB9-B881-41425F7B956B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2759" data-original-width="3998" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieVI4BPbauxBcfFdkV9xcUYgUBhiJ3759-O5sEvK76wvGxdx5b_7ZXLeJnOiA4MWTU5yh-9qm2D8T0KWYpJ-cNSC-OxhON9k322TJ19AGaJ8yGhtw3JsjgQmiR9r_1iEPj2EcUESX7Edft1DLg0oeXY-nOVQE5ioOb8000eyJD3p2HNebGFhgbOLwV/s320/BC8964E3-FC13-4DB9-B881-41425F7B956B.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The cap is the one I made for my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2018/10/blue-trevelyon-gown.html">Trevelyon gown</a>, and as also worn over a close fitted coif.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgExEb1bENdCZvJAHKyqVTS9oYOPaV3_VeCDx-cgR818RwrJLMO9ZSERGON4l3D_O3Ngrl0EUFddYGl7r4qkTeP_I_l0szL7q-knV_--lcOC9dXsTY4UJwPAfuWlNllLHKkO4ZPj-ps-khcn-2PVPbJlYNqjwIdCRXQLL1VGI88zRUp68FvugJ07tVB/s2048/IMG_3953a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1807" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgExEb1bENdCZvJAHKyqVTS9oYOPaV3_VeCDx-cgR818RwrJLMO9ZSERGON4l3D_O3Ngrl0EUFddYGl7r4qkTeP_I_l0szL7q-knV_--lcOC9dXsTY4UJwPAfuWlNllLHKkO4ZPj-ps-khcn-2PVPbJlYNqjwIdCRXQLL1VGI88zRUp68FvugJ07tVB/s320/IMG_3953a.jpg" width="282" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHLcS0sgZ3t_qG0y68Pseqgwj9dXC4AikGVfiKDzc3Y9UOqoNmcXjViajnn8tG5KUSSGiSgSY6d_GzZV0CU69x5oe56p2Dr-JlbIx0ob3h7Kxwc2FKYPg4mEGk_xLLMITcDErJK4cwNymeJmfoU29ojbQcjA5GfWR7QZ3gCIryaQp8lj_hYkK29mt5/s2048/IMG_3954a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1816" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHLcS0sgZ3t_qG0y68Pseqgwj9dXC4AikGVfiKDzc3Y9UOqoNmcXjViajnn8tG5KUSSGiSgSY6d_GzZV0CU69x5oe56p2Dr-JlbIx0ob3h7Kxwc2FKYPg4mEGk_xLLMITcDErJK4cwNymeJmfoU29ojbQcjA5GfWR7QZ3gCIryaQp8lj_hYkK29mt5/s320/IMG_3954a.jpg" width="284" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsDda3NoNF37KSToOJL_86ogv2oSNarMFt_0B_o-0HCyCHN0xepQiyteFIonJxFkR4ObvqgEG-Gj8Tw9bkbeT2BAV6CyfJ49jy34rHdFfh5Py6P3jHwq3tTw0GCOJONeBBfYURbfEdYuNafi30RmLp8hoiJu1jTpo49Yg437kAXk1ud0E5KEgqJZdg/s2048/coif.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1740" data-original-width="2048" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsDda3NoNF37KSToOJL_86ogv2oSNarMFt_0B_o-0HCyCHN0xepQiyteFIonJxFkR4ObvqgEG-Gj8Tw9bkbeT2BAV6CyfJ49jy34rHdFfh5Py6P3jHwq3tTw0GCOJONeBBfYURbfEdYuNafi30RmLp8hoiJu1jTpo49Yg437kAXk1ud0E5KEgqJZdg/s320/coif.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For the final fitting I also switched to my new, lower cut pair o' bodies. Even though the doublet was fit over my old black bodies, I find I was getting a visible harsh line at the bust and wanted to try and minimize that in the final look.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjSyzt-hL0DHtpoTpJ18dPNYkzHAaF40VoUc404wauhaMNuQPBD6tPTJtn31SpbR3fDdD0ZDPOPgVO1d4gQnn8BYhp-XZtyy0zAYvKRwabRA7XsfMcoxlthCK4RKC8jf35T-jOIj0mxFWwsHxIgHkQCG5o26PBW0edskxqXXjEB3_el_1e3imb84pa/s1457/B18C8756-14B5-4417-BCAE-BC183FE9C354.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1423" data-original-width="1457" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjSyzt-hL0DHtpoTpJ18dPNYkzHAaF40VoUc404wauhaMNuQPBD6tPTJtn31SpbR3fDdD0ZDPOPgVO1d4gQnn8BYhp-XZtyy0zAYvKRwabRA7XsfMcoxlthCK4RKC8jf35T-jOIj0mxFWwsHxIgHkQCG5o26PBW0edskxqXXjEB3_el_1e3imb84pa/w200-h196/B18C8756-14B5-4417-BCAE-BC183FE9C354.jpeg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy3UMxD1QJ1eRwf5ygEJE6ejnaaXeLsEsr7u5RnYPK_dxIwks2nNPbnfVJi_e3pzpnDEW5Mwlw4cK79PQpAoTsk_Dd-oeSualVV5iKV70tJSqtpYIK5yNlpdGehoSI-3A0fgPRVueaPJh_yu095lwAHZDAQIUESU-6-zFKIfC5RpwwTzSjq50zZEaC/s2048/67C2221C-427B-4E68-AF29-CAF2FA2509EA.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1563" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy3UMxD1QJ1eRwf5ygEJE6ejnaaXeLsEsr7u5RnYPK_dxIwks2nNPbnfVJi_e3pzpnDEW5Mwlw4cK79PQpAoTsk_Dd-oeSualVV5iKV70tJSqtpYIK5yNlpdGehoSI-3A0fgPRVueaPJh_yu095lwAHZDAQIUESU-6-zFKIfC5RpwwTzSjq50zZEaC/w153-h200/67C2221C-427B-4E68-AF29-CAF2FA2509EA.jpeg" width="153" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Okay...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">That's it. I've procrastinated long enough. On to the photos!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDssUxsRBTloIBACLcf9niuxLNoEIaDgGo30KQFsMULkDhbWvTeyX9XDVavHtti1yPD1P3G_Wki7ufNPmtETwGglzl1kuoS0PyK_I1Uoe3N1PRHgFE92Yvprp49WCtB-AEHlEmAcvFSu2O3T_L1pyN4pR5sYewlqjh5xhtb5_EhRugxydfPkBq7DH/s4320/Hollar%20Doublet_01A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2880" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDssUxsRBTloIBACLcf9niuxLNoEIaDgGo30KQFsMULkDhbWvTeyX9XDVavHtti1yPD1P3G_Wki7ufNPmtETwGglzl1kuoS0PyK_I1Uoe3N1PRHgFE92Yvprp49WCtB-AEHlEmAcvFSu2O3T_L1pyN4pR5sYewlqjh5xhtb5_EhRugxydfPkBq7DH/w266-h400/Hollar%20Doublet_01A.jpg" width="266" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG0A3DUETO5pbVm_xnKG9GJtwX9SAurQqacKhkhkfqogVCYuyG1CmOGUn78J4ju5TA0aSK8PGigfKf8GugsifcK7fvFWs2b_tQh3Wuo1XC1nQZ7E9G0NrCF8l8azqxjZC-GVJ_48qwgBRPXXhA_pxJFO-00YU4IyzdZlZxH8MIy29bs0u1gYNf4OFd/s4320/Hollar%20Doublet_02A.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2880" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG0A3DUETO5pbVm_xnKG9GJtwX9SAurQqacKhkhkfqogVCYuyG1CmOGUn78J4ju5TA0aSK8PGigfKf8GugsifcK7fvFWs2b_tQh3Wuo1XC1nQZ7E9G0NrCF8l8azqxjZC-GVJ_48qwgBRPXXhA_pxJFO-00YU4IyzdZlZxH8MIy29bs0u1gYNf4OFd/w266-h400/Hollar%20Doublet_02A.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHS0JRXaoaPEgpylqNGEI8lrpAcYCjISEpnJIKcFGhUOwyz34fRgmL_gHIz0eve8ecfP2N5bDRg-fExbGwBWrVPZP-XHv5QU1aGVKH7BkiFL2avKgVG_ozXLmsVXUXWtdd5-QsoQtyjmOR-1WlCGzrLbZeHerAigLcOXv0ONK-ALdKmRyMjabW7vUh/s4320/Hollar%20Doublet_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2880" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHS0JRXaoaPEgpylqNGEI8lrpAcYCjISEpnJIKcFGhUOwyz34fRgmL_gHIz0eve8ecfP2N5bDRg-fExbGwBWrVPZP-XHv5QU1aGVKH7BkiFL2avKgVG_ozXLmsVXUXWtdd5-QsoQtyjmOR-1WlCGzrLbZeHerAigLcOXv0ONK-ALdKmRyMjabW7vUh/w266-h400/Hollar%20Doublet_03.jpg" width="266" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKaXcln6TZUy8-UGPEVqYEHs6iEveygKHj2sYLbXvEe4xbP6IOFtYqCLuYpiySkzePC_BnAJoGR75C2LfYVw7PqIm6r1aiO73L37Imk2u5UiouGUskVLoCkPvbYD5MybbkCMqSr8oWymFjMscwFlvay2I8K2eDjwAMPVKk8ethfeNLEaj33vS2Q1CG/s4320/Hollar%20Doublet_04.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2880" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKaXcln6TZUy8-UGPEVqYEHs6iEveygKHj2sYLbXvEe4xbP6IOFtYqCLuYpiySkzePC_BnAJoGR75C2LfYVw7PqIm6r1aiO73L37Imk2u5UiouGUskVLoCkPvbYD5MybbkCMqSr8oWymFjMscwFlvay2I8K2eDjwAMPVKk8ethfeNLEaj33vS2Q1CG/w266-h400/Hollar%20Doublet_04.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><br style="text-align: center;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">So that's it!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The doublet is done.<i> Finally.</i></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>Final thoughts...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I actually like the finished look a lot more than I thought I would. </div><div style="text-align: left;">I admit that I'm still a little self conscious about some lingering COVID weight gain, which was one of the reasons I put off photographing this for so long. As a result the proportions are not everything I would wish.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>But.</i>..</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">There are some things I really like. </div><div style="text-align: left;">The back is probably my favourite and I think the trim worked out beautifully...even if I do want to go back in and add a second row of trim to the tabs.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And as I hinted earlier, one thing it really lends itself well to is <i>restyling</i>. So look for another post soon with a ton of new accessories. (Including hats! SOoooooo many hats...) </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>EDIT:</b> And<i><a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2023/03/mustard-brown-doublet-v20-mix-match.html"> HERE </a></i>it is!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div><br style="text-align: center;" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Pattern:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-<a href="https://www.themodernmaker.co/">The Modern Maker Vol 2</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Fabric:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-"Dirty Beige" wool suiting from <a href="http://www.moodfabrics.com/">Mood Fabrics</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black "Judy" linen (5.5 oz) from <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Coffee "Warsa" linen canvas (7.5 oz) from <a href="https://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/warsa-linen-">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Trim and Notions:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Back Worsted Wool tape from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Thread:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Beige/brown silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White cotton thread (silk finish)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White linen thread</div><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-74424145774321755122022-11-27T15:43:00.007-08:002023-11-21T22:06:37.233-08:00Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer - The Outfit<p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <span> </span><span>***</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7GgwE1-pbZXFV-va47d6DOr6xaTna5v4HqsFTh5TVR3E6v97TMi82b3Y6gWZ0rnSZF0H1l1n60TO2fJj87NZ9ev4eikzZB1cjELehdRk5BtMfYA47KWzoGDBOBFX5H1Q2ytmmwGFxTQ9huyXQnBbPDWzobZaLHAFBMIZZ3vQhvNOY-DfUREYQjQI/s2144/Kenau_05%20copy-colour2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1478" data-original-width="2144" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7GgwE1-pbZXFV-va47d6DOr6xaTna5v4HqsFTh5TVR3E6v97TMi82b3Y6gWZ0rnSZF0H1l1n60TO2fJj87NZ9ev4eikzZB1cjELehdRk5BtMfYA47KWzoGDBOBFX5H1Q2ytmmwGFxTQ9huyXQnBbPDWzobZaLHAFBMIZZ3vQhvNOY-DfUREYQjQI/w400-h276/Kenau_05%20copy-colour2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPaTBQpMZWEAAtiTUhH4IhylagRzdaAFVxX8VKrYuw0o8a0W5xmHJvxdVOrFZQOPEHX9cdHcuvbw42LvyhJOqFumbyBEV5XyhVpSGQJIR-f0c3Qg8VdOI3ljYbZnuiP1iDishVhvfCpd5NAlWmZ3eWaqqR7cjFFglnwrd8GKUHZ_Nc70Xc9vuxz37/s2196/Kenau_04%20copy-colour2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1591" data-original-width="2196" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPaTBQpMZWEAAtiTUhH4IhylagRzdaAFVxX8VKrYuw0o8a0W5xmHJvxdVOrFZQOPEHX9cdHcuvbw42LvyhJOqFumbyBEV5XyhVpSGQJIR-f0c3Qg8VdOI3ljYbZnuiP1iDishVhvfCpd5NAlWmZ3eWaqqR7cjFFglnwrd8GKUHZ_Nc70Xc9vuxz37/w400-h290/Kenau_04%20copy-colour2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div>As mentioned in a <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer.html">previous post</a>, I decided to start on an outfit inspired by the Dutch folk hero Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer.</div><div>I go into quite a bit of detail on the planning in that earlier entry, so for this one I'm just going to jump right into the construction process!</div><div><br /></div><div>Just a quick summing up...Although many images of Kenau exist (almost all dating to significantly after her lifetime) there definitely seems to be an iconic pose and outfit which spans all the different versions.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejhn_XUS9Dr1afSjI6X51VZnqko95ZOpRFAFrigS1CKU3zkTkIoG4kENFCHmIQT5nX13jakhNI8_WJLYjjqYAWd4n83o-2E5i2Udx_p4PpSDkhg0WM2P-eQ86Z9wwK1rz-w8JskBaX4DZY22ch0y-NMv2TVJzAJzGRCzy68yJhBpOp8emYqK88Btz/s1752/9AA8A844-10BF-4926-BAE2-54D82013E493.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1752" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejhn_XUS9Dr1afSjI6X51VZnqko95ZOpRFAFrigS1CKU3zkTkIoG4kENFCHmIQT5nX13jakhNI8_WJLYjjqYAWd4n83o-2E5i2Udx_p4PpSDkhg0WM2P-eQ86Z9wwK1rz-w8JskBaX4DZY22ch0y-NMv2TVJzAJzGRCzy68yJhBpOp8emYqK88Btz/s320/9AA8A844-10BF-4926-BAE2-54D82013E493.jpeg" width="219" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5fhZVvR2AjB-A76hGlZ5ZAtbXkR6oGr_E5o6l7CVk01z9XvPLP8GYoofieqat0Q5Frlrd0BBLTC6-_EglyKpf6QQn7yLbwjQTDSfE1BPy_sOKHqSIagqrufLe37wUIUXg5Ym2YYRvD0W0SYUpfPt9S9Z6KLzDpi_eHS4Al4Np3IoR-I58nvOJkMBh/s1898/AF134377-1678-4B10-BE41-C76404B9AF88.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1898" data-original-width="1199" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5fhZVvR2AjB-A76hGlZ5ZAtbXkR6oGr_E5o6l7CVk01z9XvPLP8GYoofieqat0Q5Frlrd0BBLTC6-_EglyKpf6QQn7yLbwjQTDSfE1BPy_sOKHqSIagqrufLe37wUIUXg5Ym2YYRvD0W0SYUpfPt9S9Z6KLzDpi_eHS4Al4Np3IoR-I58nvOJkMBh/s320/AF134377-1678-4B10-BE41-C76404B9AF88.jpeg" width="202" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-AsARW6GAxQ6PBkYAOLc-Kucw--EPBjqVPO5hM_IDc1eeHmMDJ8zDCn2nO4aRqBoSxBbAEEIB6IaBRfyAMGTYEtQL92ykJhMRQLgtmoMmNZvG7u5kaF4TODSIYudgvm503BpqZvWFufREZMH-zGq7i7Rv7lZkuTNYGbKx9MGLOUDH7MPe06w2XTp/s1478/Kenau%20copy2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1478" data-original-width="1120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-AsARW6GAxQ6PBkYAOLc-Kucw--EPBjqVPO5hM_IDc1eeHmMDJ8zDCn2nO4aRqBoSxBbAEEIB6IaBRfyAMGTYEtQL92ykJhMRQLgtmoMmNZvG7u5kaF4TODSIYudgvm503BpqZvWFufREZMH-zGq7i7Rv7lZkuTNYGbKx9MGLOUDH7MPe06w2XTp/s320/Kenau%20copy2.jpg" width="242" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMONZEygDRb0hrFzdimdRIUGpENWRl7tOlXB2CScH23Thy8K-n_FBAw4dObFJPCvRpUc_z3a7MjWrYj73tEZUT7tte4VQXjnwwwmETFWH3tXr01EAQOCMrhwT0pSebT8u22DCBUia3n8Ijq1lyU-W12m3qHkavNIOIIeO_5xB2A6a-xgjR4JldTXc/s1284/F76464C4-5674-4B68-852A-6EC4173C5326.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1284" data-original-width="1199" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMONZEygDRb0hrFzdimdRIUGpENWRl7tOlXB2CScH23Thy8K-n_FBAw4dObFJPCvRpUc_z3a7MjWrYj73tEZUT7tte4VQXjnwwwmETFWH3tXr01EAQOCMrhwT0pSebT8u22DCBUia3n8Ijq1lyU-W12m3qHkavNIOIIeO_5xB2A6a-xgjR4JldTXc/s320/F76464C4-5674-4B68-852A-6EC4173C5326.jpeg" width="299" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The colour pallet also seems to be fairly consistent. So just for fun I decide that I could easily make BOTH the of the above paintings by just switching out a few accessories.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So for this outfit I will need:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> </span>1) A reddish brown or rust kirtle, hemmed to just above the ankles and trimmed in black guards.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> </span>2) A black long-sleeved wool partlet or jacket (again, more on this on the previous <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer.html">research post</a>)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> </span>3) Two silk sashes: one in salmon pink and one in red</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> 4) Two stomachers: one black and one red</span><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><span> 5) Two pairs of stockings: again, in black and red</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><span><span> 6) A small ruff</span><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><span><span><span> 7) A white linen cap with split "tails"</span></span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><span><span><span><br /></span></span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><span><span><span>And finally...</span></span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><span><span><span> 8) A <i>BOAT LOAD</i> of weapons.<br /></span></span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><span><span><span><br /></span></span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><span><span><span>Fun times!</span></span></span></span></div><div><br /></div>Let's start with the kirtle. </div><div>This is fairly straightforward and is a based on a pattern I've made twice before (for both my <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2018/10/blue-trevelyon-gown.html">blue Trevelyon gown</a> and more recently my <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/02/green-aertsen-kirtle.html">green kirtle</a>).</div><div><br /></div><div>For that reason I didn't really document the construction process much at all.</div><div><br /></div><div>As usual, the foundation layers are made of two layers of 10.5 oz cotton hemp, pad-stitched together and reinforced with boning channels. </div><div>The bodice is only partially boned, with spring steel along the front lacing edge and some synthetic whalebone through the front in alternating channels.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSs9p1QTnTsaD5V3y0_Qw0PbuKKY96aJIPIppyY-Hqrk9cHfrm8bCz3dB1PtuIuIRMjcPlu6K94dIXeNKCAYaKadqy8alycP1l5xQWDka-IbyajYdkz8N1zm-F7UcmKh5U-WJw_mzlFYryz0EV85o0moEvTYFHxR4pKZVoJRP-AlUz-4RPPRxi7NXf/s3514/404CAF8B-ED31-43C0-8A38-198216FB3B97.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2740" data-original-width="3514" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSs9p1QTnTsaD5V3y0_Qw0PbuKKY96aJIPIppyY-Hqrk9cHfrm8bCz3dB1PtuIuIRMjcPlu6K94dIXeNKCAYaKadqy8alycP1l5xQWDka-IbyajYdkz8N1zm-F7UcmKh5U-WJw_mzlFYryz0EV85o0moEvTYFHxR4pKZVoJRP-AlUz-4RPPRxi7NXf/s320/404CAF8B-ED31-43C0-8A38-198216FB3B97.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Then the bodice is covered in a rust brown wool and lined with black linen. It's also trimmed with two rows of narrow cotton ribbon to match the first of my inspiration images.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7c3LeeNeH4G0uw2zeeWKrokCJNda9eFA-t54VeT8LSyIX3e9cCzIurRW_dJF1al57MQL2aZiWLw_0UuM8t7coRN0E5oPM0YqY7Zz-VhpjlEN4oEwyl1pf-mNuMPpEOtz01Jh2ZNtXkTRAI5UiDZkVgtojTxOIJqbIKAsQdJ7wepWKURamUKj9jgfC/s224/8BC9897D-E1EF-43F5-8623-F7081E01F852.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="220" data-original-width="224" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7c3LeeNeH4G0uw2zeeWKrokCJNda9eFA-t54VeT8LSyIX3e9cCzIurRW_dJF1al57MQL2aZiWLw_0UuM8t7coRN0E5oPM0YqY7Zz-VhpjlEN4oEwyl1pf-mNuMPpEOtz01Jh2ZNtXkTRAI5UiDZkVgtojTxOIJqbIKAsQdJ7wepWKURamUKj9jgfC/s1600/8BC9897D-E1EF-43F5-8623-F7081E01F852.jpeg" width="224" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgX4aZmlMJylAlYgPbV8VYM5Ud2-9tdwoCkMFEvlqbzkX4aFpFZx6MVGRE1AWhbGcUwElsyYY6vGbX4aILL8v-evqtrATpx7J64cjg33CCQHXlMjMc-QQhy2q37li3MPmZHwJGMb_ZxDFuo-2l1aD7TLTH3faomGRrXG-F-vKdKvN9qfAiTD5Bo3g/s3269/3F243164-BA7A-4E5A-BEB4-D6F148A0DB44.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3269" data-original-width="2902" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgX4aZmlMJylAlYgPbV8VYM5Ud2-9tdwoCkMFEvlqbzkX4aFpFZx6MVGRE1AWhbGcUwElsyYY6vGbX4aILL8v-evqtrATpx7J64cjg33CCQHXlMjMc-QQhy2q37li3MPmZHwJGMb_ZxDFuo-2l1aD7TLTH3faomGRrXG-F-vKdKvN9qfAiTD5Bo3g/s320/3F243164-BA7A-4E5A-BEB4-D6F148A0DB44.jpeg" width="284" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>For a blow by blow of the construction process please see the write up for my <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2018/10/blue-trevelyon-gown.html">blue gown</a>, which outlines each step in detail.</div><div>Like the blue gown, the kirtle also has a hidden lacing strip worked with hand bound eyelets, offset for spiral lacing.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcC4rIbZ7DmV6UZnQdMySxGxjPzpYErNpVVcvXxKG-PdRQxphBUP7d-6HIWxuKp5yQeEO8ZWnEJKubso3u9krJipClIexWbbgmctSZ2wCfuqlzuFGq3aTAgQSkk-2eA-ycxUsD7o_SxV3pfmXmiOe0jlRi9JxYMq8pAbzM056bU8Z69b_Pnm8xS0lY/s3365/814EE7AC-52D2-4521-A158-4B73D5FC50F2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2453" data-original-width="3365" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcC4rIbZ7DmV6UZnQdMySxGxjPzpYErNpVVcvXxKG-PdRQxphBUP7d-6HIWxuKp5yQeEO8ZWnEJKubso3u9krJipClIexWbbgmctSZ2wCfuqlzuFGq3aTAgQSkk-2eA-ycxUsD7o_SxV3pfmXmiOe0jlRi9JxYMq8pAbzM056bU8Z69b_Pnm8xS0lY/s320/814EE7AC-52D2-4521-A158-4B73D5FC50F2.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTjFeQJ2EfE6c4_lDI7d-0bfqPNFFdpjMgYjzrIxpf2UAtMN3OHH2mrJmIlKeNAUXhq3JaJG1dy_EqR70tY-4hrBhppUChvsg3KdwhvsqoKNQub571Qv8REGNI08EDHbD08zb3RsdQz0ctobhsLVqWU-q5ExgM0tG0hCyyZLeJoZDlCv4iLx_PRp99/s3484/95D4181D-73BE-4DFE-B9A6-44EB2DF1A9B3.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3484" data-original-width="2883" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTjFeQJ2EfE6c4_lDI7d-0bfqPNFFdpjMgYjzrIxpf2UAtMN3OHH2mrJmIlKeNAUXhq3JaJG1dy_EqR70tY-4hrBhppUChvsg3KdwhvsqoKNQub571Qv8REGNI08EDHbD08zb3RsdQz0ctobhsLVqWU-q5ExgM0tG0hCyyZLeJoZDlCv4iLx_PRp99/s320/95D4181D-73BE-4DFE-B9A6-44EB2DF1A9B3.jpeg" width="265" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Next it's time to make the stomachers. </div><div>Only instead of making two, I decide to make a single, reversible stomacher: with black linen on one side and red linen on the other.</div><div>The base is heavy cotton muslin.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJqT4xJe7eS5IomuoT5HNhfp1tZ57CFm92LfKFt9ZazN3rk5UXx-b9VUB0M3__8VzO8Ivkk8GGilbXa_BSZK8jH2gpwujc0WgvCswjHKDWRPunclL_qpvaEJkU4GuoMtTwZcU9pVNbKzTVmxATxmWzW3PsYDQjtLwbeGLFXcT4OYuPnJvIKBwM3MbR/s2866/811C2E77-29BF-451D-BBCF-8D317F2B5211.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2866" data-original-width="2808" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJqT4xJe7eS5IomuoT5HNhfp1tZ57CFm92LfKFt9ZazN3rk5UXx-b9VUB0M3__8VzO8Ivkk8GGilbXa_BSZK8jH2gpwujc0WgvCswjHKDWRPunclL_qpvaEJkU4GuoMtTwZcU9pVNbKzTVmxATxmWzW3PsYDQjtLwbeGLFXcT4OYuPnJvIKBwM3MbR/s320/811C2E77-29BF-451D-BBCF-8D317F2B5211.jpeg" width="314" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>(<i>Note:</i> I had originally intended to add some boning down the front, but instead of adding support this actually made the stomacher buckle in strange way and so was later abandoned)</div><div><br /></div><div>Then the black and red linen was flat-lined to the base on either side and bound in black cotton ribbon.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPp_poVMnAOM3SD1LtS5tmV6l8fM91GtgtUPuyxBkJmfXUbEnyphEgPFxn-vWBQk2MJzia2ymL9NdNfW-t0wPdzTtG2Gd3zUk2iXYxdhS4MU9TUhL628StG1I_eegpLOrCLXu3h9f7Wx53zCM0QvgmXpBawIkuu61tawd6YN-oBBBYOxwLO6mokfu/s2818/B4E40AEB-044F-4AA2-AE3D-8B3423D90C88.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="2818" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPp_poVMnAOM3SD1LtS5tmV6l8fM91GtgtUPuyxBkJmfXUbEnyphEgPFxn-vWBQk2MJzia2ymL9NdNfW-t0wPdzTtG2Gd3zUk2iXYxdhS4MU9TUhL628StG1I_eegpLOrCLXu3h9f7Wx53zCM0QvgmXpBawIkuu61tawd6YN-oBBBYOxwLO6mokfu/s320/B4E40AEB-044F-4AA2-AE3D-8B3423D90C88.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq9jADnFrNU_0Eyn56thaHNJ0ZMfqZ8OV4QdOZqMh92BYhbqRR76C-PUOXmJlhk3tsnTqmm6GOVSypovRmLpFW81MU9CsCd2wTMEnYf-C8HNxFWfPyjP9JPTLnii9RTWYN6F6eSSWhdwg06tiVA4CNyJguwurm8PXaaGznTMPkyKWAVicuNDacA6f-/s3128/7848B7ED-BA29-4C9D-84A1-4DAF2EC27FB0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3128" data-original-width="2544" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq9jADnFrNU_0Eyn56thaHNJ0ZMfqZ8OV4QdOZqMh92BYhbqRR76C-PUOXmJlhk3tsnTqmm6GOVSypovRmLpFW81MU9CsCd2wTMEnYf-C8HNxFWfPyjP9JPTLnii9RTWYN6F6eSSWhdwg06tiVA4CNyJguwurm8PXaaGznTMPkyKWAVicuNDacA6f-/s320/7848B7ED-BA29-4C9D-84A1-4DAF2EC27FB0.jpeg" width="260" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrm4QaPoGJX42mkvCLtwqvrGRXLPK7Sa0BuXYlFcDvrgm74HgxEe5MVdWRzvV3P0qwSa8PQjltgP_IosMz-U5aI-NR9i68L9NFAMmid9IgplmEWsklFIkBSvB0k9J8NsnMwmxcGLvUY_fI5A8JWtQ8Bvn9rWE4aZhfOHo9bJjpSQFsggd3GrP27MvV/s2743/837181AD-3DA4-425B-8B43-22C70712AAD2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2743" data-original-width="2202" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrm4QaPoGJX42mkvCLtwqvrGRXLPK7Sa0BuXYlFcDvrgm74HgxEe5MVdWRzvV3P0qwSa8PQjltgP_IosMz-U5aI-NR9i68L9NFAMmid9IgplmEWsklFIkBSvB0k9J8NsnMwmxcGLvUY_fI5A8JWtQ8Bvn9rWE4aZhfOHo9bJjpSQFsggd3GrP27MvV/s320/837181AD-3DA4-425B-8B43-22C70712AAD2.jpeg" width="257" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Then I tried on the bodice and stomacher combo. Looks good!</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6YbpeRSL10-LHEdLmrC4uTaDz7V1v0XYhR0NQYqJXGdMOVOVgbMrob9rjaYO8JJ5UQ3MRVvhwc5AcvKvYbGhFTQ1DqEmRJC6KwWwlV8p5UJtk6aWchcyn6Vi51RQ6087C5SRYBigDneDPrxBjRz8hn0g1_HtHTRYfT-LqMkqQ9D3uks82DwI-A8QX/s1965/4133515F-148E-47FB-967A-A31FAC5932FA.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1488" data-original-width="1965" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6YbpeRSL10-LHEdLmrC4uTaDz7V1v0XYhR0NQYqJXGdMOVOVgbMrob9rjaYO8JJ5UQ3MRVvhwc5AcvKvYbGhFTQ1DqEmRJC6KwWwlV8p5UJtk6aWchcyn6Vi51RQ6087C5SRYBigDneDPrxBjRz8hn0g1_HtHTRYfT-LqMkqQ9D3uks82DwI-A8QX/s320/4133515F-148E-47FB-967A-A31FAC5932FA.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Note: I actually end up only using every other lacing hole. Out of habit I had placed the eyelets pretty close together and the high contrast zigzag was really overpowering the look. Dropping down to ever other hole is a closer match to my inspiration images.</div><div><br /></div><div>Next the skirt is attached, but again you'll have to reference the older posts for construction and pleating math. </div><div>Like the blue gown it has an integral underskirt, this time in black linen.</div><div><br /></div><div>After the skirt is attached (and confirmed to be level) the trim is added. This is a wider version of the same cotton ribbon used on the bodice.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWT_hqwu-jQdS-Bzt9VjO9mXYguxoFAV8GNpG1JpcJ0EIx4VdeO1tiDVcQY8YLtRB4mYE-g6FbU5AVyRC_XQ23JuWktPKDtJAVDrF_p08FE5ZoTQxaLW3tvfxbpKX5JVsgX74aqaZlb-ab23lAcYG8cP5FdQtwrtAPqLHI2MYFwbyZQgdxqym5S_KZ/s3229/43EB77F9-CAF7-4FD9-B117-F09D060B6446.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3229" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWT_hqwu-jQdS-Bzt9VjO9mXYguxoFAV8GNpG1JpcJ0EIx4VdeO1tiDVcQY8YLtRB4mYE-g6FbU5AVyRC_XQ23JuWktPKDtJAVDrF_p08FE5ZoTQxaLW3tvfxbpKX5JVsgX74aqaZlb-ab23lAcYG8cP5FdQtwrtAPqLHI2MYFwbyZQgdxqym5S_KZ/s320/43EB77F9-CAF7-4FD9-B117-F09D060B6446.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEith0k5IYHfwtFGAbZ5QO_d9wamIyhNaPtdb9v-3T2EPzBfWm1f4DKw33mKq1EtyBtucq7dLMAi4CcoGVuRLCvPZRRRRfQ6IYYL2isQZKepXhxVuqR9Ys2-8DI_AltIz-OMakBLnhcfhFnsBVL_SjSmxMvKCQ3wDtsRJaYcLSlMoPakQsr9Gsboi0xN/s3499/1A6E7CF4-EF52-42E5-A59B-CC01A6A5A2BD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2427" data-original-width="3499" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEith0k5IYHfwtFGAbZ5QO_d9wamIyhNaPtdb9v-3T2EPzBfWm1f4DKw33mKq1EtyBtucq7dLMAi4CcoGVuRLCvPZRRRRfQ6IYYL2isQZKepXhxVuqR9Ys2-8DI_AltIz-OMakBLnhcfhFnsBVL_SjSmxMvKCQ3wDtsRJaYcLSlMoPakQsr9Gsboi0xN/s320/1A6E7CF4-EF52-42E5-A59B-CC01A6A5A2BD.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Now it's time to move onto the accessories!</div><div><br /></div><div>And it's at this point that I go a little nuts...</div><div><br /></div><div>I figure that since I'm already making two versions of this outfit...why not <i>THREE</i>?</div><div><br /></div><div>As hinted above --and covered more expansively in my research post-- I'm still a little dubious that this long sleeved partlet is actually a <i>thing </i>(super technical historical term).</div><div>There's still a good chance that what the later sources are misinterpreting is a long sleeved kirtle (or gown) under a sleeveless partlet. So that's what I decide to make.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhysjnCINQeX-4tYk-HgaSTqoKyBXzbu9csORxAjbbd_18snXFt2f2KUdpQsXyRzv9-1Xs1kwqaqGjAD70dT8fWKMQrUoafq0CjbifYcGWL5eKWSGflZkssl_j1nc8tpPiCrtynyLgih19DGizbeO00ofsa5z3bIDIdTkQoQLCa7vZz0Eo2U2GfgGdU/s815/a22f7813ca3e7fea99840cd929c4823c.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="815" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhysjnCINQeX-4tYk-HgaSTqoKyBXzbu9csORxAjbbd_18snXFt2f2KUdpQsXyRzv9-1Xs1kwqaqGjAD70dT8fWKMQrUoafq0CjbifYcGWL5eKWSGflZkssl_j1nc8tpPiCrtynyLgih19DGizbeO00ofsa5z3bIDIdTkQoQLCa7vZz0Eo2U2GfgGdU/s320/a22f7813ca3e7fea99840cd929c4823c.jpg" width="221" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDrxsrFOrznekjBG6ylgaV5iZSIJc0ubsvdvXyoYF2VAmbHpGugak5VadLhYscoM0Qf3y5EIB_1djhm9r8k3GWzsW8V4jGTNMf04Q_xoYosAEBlFgg0sBIoN_9H9yw28oF8oCAcCriwVof0bfAbs2ho12rodcIC3SOQCHymMyVPb7BLG1Zc1jHJNaN/s1238/02532499-243B-4C6B-A18D-FCB57D424C21.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1238" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDrxsrFOrznekjBG6ylgaV5iZSIJc0ubsvdvXyoYF2VAmbHpGugak5VadLhYscoM0Qf3y5EIB_1djhm9r8k3GWzsW8V4jGTNMf04Q_xoYosAEBlFgg0sBIoN_9H9yw28oF8oCAcCriwVof0bfAbs2ho12rodcIC3SOQCHymMyVPb7BLG1Zc1jHJNaN/s320/02532499-243B-4C6B-A18D-FCB57D424C21.jpeg" width="310" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Sort of...</div><div><br /></div><div>I'm not going to add sleeves to kirtle I've just made and I'm sure as heck not making another kirtle! (despite having tons of leftover wool).</div><div>Instead I'm to try a totally theatrical cheat and add rust sleeves to a black partlet.</div><div>This will also be a sort of "proof of concept" for the short black jacket.</div><div><br /></div><div>The black partlet is a pattern I've made previously. </div><div>It's made of black wool and lined in black linen. It's finished on all sides and the edges whipstitched together under the arms.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglStNav4HnIjkSi9PB6gGQIxu4XsXLD0TkhoU0fY3PhOo84nBiVD-Ew79SC691ZQclAZtRR70Y1ftT4B5G1kj-Y7Ao0QYOTr3z6_sRBAKqdWgRPj_Mys2iYNbrAFgkzOnuWGJQhGflWg5Hjoz0PBNXXaN_g29pR9jrvxzquhD5tBSv6dOWmcedDzFS/s3967/A3C53E0E-3FD7-4626-91DD-DAF4D0C2B28E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2910" data-original-width="3967" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglStNav4HnIjkSi9PB6gGQIxu4XsXLD0TkhoU0fY3PhOo84nBiVD-Ew79SC691ZQclAZtRR70Y1ftT4B5G1kj-Y7Ao0QYOTr3z6_sRBAKqdWgRPj_Mys2iYNbrAFgkzOnuWGJQhGflWg5Hjoz0PBNXXaN_g29pR9jrvxzquhD5tBSv6dOWmcedDzFS/s320/A3C53E0E-3FD7-4626-91DD-DAF4D0C2B28E.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiES73fiJcw2-yWIGJ2jcTJeFZOhuHvNXIzEsPtTJKbL8LQGtaYhK_GbvuLUASZrAF5dW7saKDlx8zX07zty4WCkvS1s8b8Gn9meHEyt7XUNbPuGkZD1R1HT4kijXzIIhMw9OcQLwbYqQ5LT2v3z-rWx7FGTqwU_bGIOm3h3LqsnuRpu3ME4h1Gzjin/s3396/1C93E7BA-4A23-4A3E-A172-A73B68B5B40B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3396" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiES73fiJcw2-yWIGJ2jcTJeFZOhuHvNXIzEsPtTJKbL8LQGtaYhK_GbvuLUASZrAF5dW7saKDlx8zX07zty4WCkvS1s8b8Gn9meHEyt7XUNbPuGkZD1R1HT4kijXzIIhMw9OcQLwbYqQ5LT2v3z-rWx7FGTqwU_bGIOm3h3LqsnuRpu3ME4h1Gzjin/s320/1C93E7BA-4A23-4A3E-A172-A73B68B5B40B.jpeg" width="285" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3mBZVv2zmtr5GEBk-o91yAIZKp3LJVsNJEazMGMy5Epx8F-51Od2soyQf--8VI6SKpGEiUI1-CR-Lxz8BMk-dU3-_WLE9rkFo3CWPb99D3JqFTqarPl4esrsaYIVrCxzHQph0p-9sBIFYVHB9wUD1heC-jq9PrFRPI2EzFE6KdF4De7qRSlGjJaGH/s3717/6BBAFF4E-88AA-444C-8950-D1A5051EDCDA.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3717" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3mBZVv2zmtr5GEBk-o91yAIZKp3LJVsNJEazMGMy5Epx8F-51Od2soyQf--8VI6SKpGEiUI1-CR-Lxz8BMk-dU3-_WLE9rkFo3CWPb99D3JqFTqarPl4esrsaYIVrCxzHQph0p-9sBIFYVHB9wUD1heC-jq9PrFRPI2EzFE6KdF4De7qRSlGjJaGH/s320/6BBAFF4E-88AA-444C-8950-D1A5051EDCDA.jpeg" width="260" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>For the whole process (with photos at each stage) please see the partlet section on the post for my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2015/05/the-impromptu-greensleeves-kirtle.html">brown linen kirtle</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>Though it's hard to see, the partlet is also trimmed in narrow black cotton tape. </div><div>(What can I say? I'm a sucker for black on black trim).</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR447730QtD8PKzonPqghneyTfHD5NZwCV5N_7rorjGQC7eHoT0GnmCZ8xxn4MX5SZMXATEnj32rQDBwfeJYKrkenx0Bn5aSTAe9xKN6OTrM9Fq545oBYUvLMSTdMFD6HY_f2o1QL-BloHWNFt3wDAVFBJbXWwpvBNk7C_V27_Uq6eBbHDWx6yy5jO/s3023/D46A14B4-9FEB-4C5C-B8C5-77C107770781.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2771" data-original-width="3023" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR447730QtD8PKzonPqghneyTfHD5NZwCV5N_7rorjGQC7eHoT0GnmCZ8xxn4MX5SZMXATEnj32rQDBwfeJYKrkenx0Bn5aSTAe9xKN6OTrM9Fq545oBYUvLMSTdMFD6HY_f2o1QL-BloHWNFt3wDAVFBJbXWwpvBNk7C_V27_Uq6eBbHDWx6yy5jO/s320/D46A14B4-9FEB-4C5C-B8C5-77C107770781.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS6UkLx9NHLXRylwxvTR9P1etf9AuoiqpdDAFzF5L2BHC_0PtAOW_0dM_HIFrale-MRw-kTl0JoQ0ZYe8xvIvymNXTke5MnGvujoSJUto1iofCTlKxbjTiFDsuoUFFlCFHThPkBsmLTnMLMzg-XEEchR0VFvWOoFUpVklW9Oe2Gd28BCPf_M1vShII/s4032/8E9ECB1B-A0EC-483C-BF35-43D376CFE2C8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS6UkLx9NHLXRylwxvTR9P1etf9AuoiqpdDAFzF5L2BHC_0PtAOW_0dM_HIFrale-MRw-kTl0JoQ0ZYe8xvIvymNXTke5MnGvujoSJUto1iofCTlKxbjTiFDsuoUFFlCFHThPkBsmLTnMLMzg-XEEchR0VFvWOoFUpVklW9Oe2Gd28BCPf_M1vShII/s320/8E9ECB1B-A0EC-483C-BF35-43D376CFE2C8.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeYy3UQYmpt2LTyg_4vlf6bw2iQM7rrE61MV3KNQMSFKxjJzy4dKHYjw30n9CVkb5YnCMYzU_062s6eHblJWyhJYyfMAvxvsN8ccAc8Ljh0Sht0j-rz3Gt5q4uku4QRbEXYSZzk6s3lshFfaDZGj_EcwKlYSNl3awWXg09UAwkeAiNP3dwrnbbhVXu/s4031/57FCFAC8-D76B-43C0-B006-E6B9EFFC2C92.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2941" data-original-width="4031" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeYy3UQYmpt2LTyg_4vlf6bw2iQM7rrE61MV3KNQMSFKxjJzy4dKHYjw30n9CVkb5YnCMYzU_062s6eHblJWyhJYyfMAvxvsN8ccAc8Ljh0Sht0j-rz3Gt5q4uku4QRbEXYSZzk6s3lshFfaDZGj_EcwKlYSNl3awWXg09UAwkeAiNP3dwrnbbhVXu/s320/57FCFAC8-D76B-43C0-B006-E6B9EFFC2C92.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>With the partlet finished it's time to add the sleeves. </div><div>These will also be finished on all edges and whip-stitched to the armscye.</div><div><br /></div><div>Now, apologies in advance, because I really didn't take many photos of this next stage (probably because I wasn't entirely convinced it was going to work) but I'll walk through what I have...</div><div><br /></div><div>First, while making up the lining, a strip of black wool is zigzagged stitched to the top of the sleeve head. This will add more oomph to pleats later.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0HpEIRzVLBi4_Tp-ov2EtI9LSH4hh6HYY44bl0lnOj72zOGa9Ga0AB3p_IkYnkAKjc4wmIXqgQR3MPA2b0-_5EAxfsiO7hFrH9xr241ghfBkaoMKhg2--SCnwDZLJ34Pg0V8SuttPnuUKSWXJE9gLpbkY2Vobyw-eF-5-dM04woHo-xJozRx1i5I6/s4030/FB9BAAF0-A701-4713-A614-BED1CDCD1D70.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2930" data-original-width="4030" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0HpEIRzVLBi4_Tp-ov2EtI9LSH4hh6HYY44bl0lnOj72zOGa9Ga0AB3p_IkYnkAKjc4wmIXqgQR3MPA2b0-_5EAxfsiO7hFrH9xr241ghfBkaoMKhg2--SCnwDZLJ34Pg0V8SuttPnuUKSWXJE9gLpbkY2Vobyw-eF-5-dM04woHo-xJozRx1i5I6/s320/FB9BAAF0-A701-4713-A614-BED1CDCD1D70.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Next the sleeve is made up, lined and turned so that all edges are finished. </div><div>Again, I don't have any photos of this, but it's the same approach as by blue gown, so imagine the below photo, but...you know...<i>brown</i>.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDVBJ__aRXHymEqtJFC0s9l8a9m5RsE5xYM1mUTA23FbCgu-yiE3D-ZgRatgCAoYq_ZMK6Zyo5CO8sRoI-2tm1TrdKHKqEnzYykz294H4btuYIvjYEPYwAtvgrsJwyDHVampobpuVXlX1iJQvczkQBIjCpov5KOkg8q3zHbnDchd5ebcMBIyer6unh/s2048/DSC03701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1406" data-original-width="2048" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDVBJ__aRXHymEqtJFC0s9l8a9m5RsE5xYM1mUTA23FbCgu-yiE3D-ZgRatgCAoYq_ZMK6Zyo5CO8sRoI-2tm1TrdKHKqEnzYykz294H4btuYIvjYEPYwAtvgrsJwyDHVampobpuVXlX1iJQvczkQBIjCpov5KOkg8q3zHbnDchd5ebcMBIyer6unh/s320/DSC03701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Then a row of stitches are run along the sleeve head. These will be pulled to form cartridge pleats.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4EhpF1XUhQiqqXHjQ3kLhJEbE3iMG3i7G-dmt3YS5GsPUFxKJYBW3PWwdHt9G5gyrTkEHgjjkDh3wfA9_XZ45_JXuLA2_P36BuDgkD53gVJK0lNqYB-1SFC0bEVSIo-czVqhIBhzj_puf7do89wgN0CXkqtj5nLlncfg4wm4Hj49fwoV1gbphGaG2/s4030/88B1CB62-7ADF-4487-A5A7-6386E5311F25.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2884" data-original-width="4030" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4EhpF1XUhQiqqXHjQ3kLhJEbE3iMG3i7G-dmt3YS5GsPUFxKJYBW3PWwdHt9G5gyrTkEHgjjkDh3wfA9_XZ45_JXuLA2_P36BuDgkD53gVJK0lNqYB-1SFC0bEVSIo-czVqhIBhzj_puf7do89wgN0CXkqtj5nLlncfg4wm4Hj49fwoV1gbphGaG2/s320/88B1CB62-7ADF-4487-A5A7-6386E5311F25.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>The sleeve is then pinned into the armscye of the partlet and whipstitched in. </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlSDCOfA3O84kKBxW9FUKBh7pOsKJwI-1aa1h4G9IDJM9B8FcCgwF9fbe4QOr75R_whW2dAMNiEfe-4GdovWFJ94zj5tmOLVVzXsEMf39h6t57M4ONgrMZya19RmAe5D4B6U4Q68F9sxyiJdWnxV5Hu5ISgODAMJZuYyKGhL9Tbi5YeBbdz4Av4kK/s3683/ABB7A9DD-6372-4755-AABC-C7080E172B64.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3683" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlSDCOfA3O84kKBxW9FUKBh7pOsKJwI-1aa1h4G9IDJM9B8FcCgwF9fbe4QOr75R_whW2dAMNiEfe-4GdovWFJ94zj5tmOLVVzXsEMf39h6t57M4ONgrMZya19RmAe5D4B6U4Q68F9sxyiJdWnxV5Hu5ISgODAMJZuYyKGhL9Tbi5YeBbdz4Av4kK/s320/ABB7A9DD-6372-4755-AABC-C7080E172B64.jpeg" width="263" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>And that's it! Weird fake partlet thing complete.</div><div>Like all my other partlets this one doesn't have any front closures and will ultimately be pinned closed .</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUW4OFAETR6YB0E-R29Dzr0-LDJaP_OcjbCWjQdeBLDDqzXPqiZvh310pfuzwMfGBCeLyke8asADry3Wcc-c6N_AwYVQ5pUlPO1AoWpyUDiZkPlS9C2bDGkXxfZtBlkAA12ndJ2fiGdfw7Sy72fsUFSVdTe-NZzUZRlKUHg1gnJEEquX_tOams7wE/s3611/366D4259-188B-4A43-90B3-CE8FB5C257C0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2782" data-original-width="3611" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUW4OFAETR6YB0E-R29Dzr0-LDJaP_OcjbCWjQdeBLDDqzXPqiZvh310pfuzwMfGBCeLyke8asADry3Wcc-c6N_AwYVQ5pUlPO1AoWpyUDiZkPlS9C2bDGkXxfZtBlkAA12ndJ2fiGdfw7Sy72fsUFSVdTe-NZzUZRlKUHg1gnJEEquX_tOams7wE/s320/366D4259-188B-4A43-90B3-CE8FB5C257C0.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXqacvt5AubaQ8gNMMvXlALPDFyck7tudSaHG9T5NQIvICWH9ZwvdJ_skFSYdEdiMuzyjD0Q-MJ5Y1qXMkiCJQSB2i3mUDKpO-sAN4sjQYt4WnDk7a8jSTG8J8LpHJP9lwH6PsOf6oswEbZINpaPL9FO4wvCzbAZ-ve1dxLgwsC4YXDAzJDVngBbc/s3551/65E76FB0-B951-4DC8-ACFA-C3EC570B7240.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2750" data-original-width="3551" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXqacvt5AubaQ8gNMMvXlALPDFyck7tudSaHG9T5NQIvICWH9ZwvdJ_skFSYdEdiMuzyjD0Q-MJ5Y1qXMkiCJQSB2i3mUDKpO-sAN4sjQYt4WnDk7a8jSTG8J8LpHJP9lwH6PsOf6oswEbZINpaPL9FO4wvCzbAZ-ve1dxLgwsC4YXDAzJDVngBbc/s320/65E76FB0-B951-4DC8-ACFA-C3EC570B7240.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7s97yYhn8PG8iTFdxBNCmbbXVNnGDe0bRrioxNSVnp7NKeymaUm6seOGdNsndkMETyFrf7xNTMKPaWb5QhgcFe2_S0xynugz2knPtWzNZ_YqBtc90kjxnNRIsr0oz1QCe4vjQICKgZAgN2R7yaFjQHS7d4sEGhdC0noNkKEtuIhoKgfVjoYE5xNX_/s1999/AB95E160-364E-4CB4-AC9D-A9AE0F598B45.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1491" data-original-width="1999" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7s97yYhn8PG8iTFdxBNCmbbXVNnGDe0bRrioxNSVnp7NKeymaUm6seOGdNsndkMETyFrf7xNTMKPaWb5QhgcFe2_S0xynugz2knPtWzNZ_YqBtc90kjxnNRIsr0oz1QCe4vjQICKgZAgN2R7yaFjQHS7d4sEGhdC0noNkKEtuIhoKgfVjoYE5xNX_/s320/AB95E160-364E-4CB4-AC9D-A9AE0F598B45.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx83il5U35zBAp1TXDB3r6QtefJUaONkWmQalRiZudN3HjUNzyhNmGK0PRAU8OhDrQGYHHKx6PhZk66cIR1i2ZQ3NKon54zhz9_LJjYvRel1duznLdueY7s56ZxqhyBuEzGqXEg09x53AMRYuy-Wlhz-pIGrXeTZcSaBzJW9bcIy52Da8jvAq7o2ec/s1740/7F44A920-D9D7-4E93-84EC-9ED62C0FC1ED.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1294" data-original-width="1740" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx83il5U35zBAp1TXDB3r6QtefJUaONkWmQalRiZudN3HjUNzyhNmGK0PRAU8OhDrQGYHHKx6PhZk66cIR1i2ZQ3NKon54zhz9_LJjYvRel1duznLdueY7s56ZxqhyBuEzGqXEg09x53AMRYuy-Wlhz-pIGrXeTZcSaBzJW9bcIy52Da8jvAq7o2ec/s320/7F44A920-D9D7-4E93-84EC-9ED62C0FC1ED.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>It's also at this point that I decide to whip up another stomacher in matching rust wool just for fun...</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7kjviarkj381VQx36UUYQsEtzIEI8VEf4Vp3OBGZYgMMZmNQz7S1WFw6HmKahlg6ykMZgfPCZCbCDZ0K-JSkmH116oLnA2bxDi9215josImDlT9CXxsylAhlXk0Hh6uMmP12FnI8_3qYwAFKmNk34T1Fz_vjSRWNdnrx5ik5GKo71NOvGIU25D0ZS/s3527/920AEC91-B2E7-4477-AF57-ED7B7AFC8D2E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2622" data-original-width="3527" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7kjviarkj381VQx36UUYQsEtzIEI8VEf4Vp3OBGZYgMMZmNQz7S1WFw6HmKahlg6ykMZgfPCZCbCDZ0K-JSkmH116oLnA2bxDi9215josImDlT9CXxsylAhlXk0Hh6uMmP12FnI8_3qYwAFKmNk34T1Fz_vjSRWNdnrx5ik5GKo71NOvGIU25D0ZS/s320/920AEC91-B2E7-4477-AF57-ED7B7AFC8D2E.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now it's time to move into the short black jacket. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Originally I debated constructing it more like a short doublet with a separate collar, but as it's a highly conjectural garment anyway I decide to just repeat the process above (but with some minor tweaks).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For this second, long-sleeved partlet I did document the process a little more fully.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">First off, the front shape a little different. I wanted more overlap along the center front and so the angle of the curve is reversed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's also longer in the sides that a regular partlet. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I also reenforced the front edge with 1" worsted wool tape (which is stitched to the black wool on the wrong side). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMj7TV3_NDNW9IzxsZMlGAf3FIprHeIi0iuVdZuWiqpolJRlWwIn7rn60c5m3SVjg3wcECwxH-_Lth8Eq1VFdw8Fi9dsPczbhtsCJzXd-bVKF1vz2yoqHnpXw5qoQSbLxTOCjljWXvwyO0uk4ujEZL8DLKRmNYB0V-uquuLicTi3vkIT9LTP4TESmo/s3580/AD6A2CD1-E657-4632-9C84-BC4ACAFA5C38.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3014" data-original-width="3580" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMj7TV3_NDNW9IzxsZMlGAf3FIprHeIi0iuVdZuWiqpolJRlWwIn7rn60c5m3SVjg3wcECwxH-_Lth8Eq1VFdw8Fi9dsPczbhtsCJzXd-bVKF1vz2yoqHnpXw5qoQSbLxTOCjljWXvwyO0uk4ujEZL8DLKRmNYB0V-uquuLicTi3vkIT9LTP4TESmo/s320/AD6A2CD1-E657-4632-9C84-BC4ACAFA5C38.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtqAebRS11T5GEjZ0HPBQK4uziY2tz4HfI44yfhyUVPCLdS_yoR68ctJ1bdxYepovfZuf91ixs2lhC1D5rLrYPTMl8GpJ64lPjFMX-yLdinKmX0sdesniL0AH3lc2t3KApWwnnfTXWZGiL75zukrBjhhdZ9UYBVi0WNjxxVDzYdDFBaYuUwH-HzuB/s3440/37857D5B-931D-4D84-A837-71E915DB7F7C.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3440" data-original-width="2807" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtqAebRS11T5GEjZ0HPBQK4uziY2tz4HfI44yfhyUVPCLdS_yoR68ctJ1bdxYepovfZuf91ixs2lhC1D5rLrYPTMl8GpJ64lPjFMX-yLdinKmX0sdesniL0AH3lc2t3KApWwnnfTXWZGiL75zukrBjhhdZ9UYBVi0WNjxxVDzYdDFBaYuUwH-HzuB/s320/37857D5B-931D-4D84-A837-71E915DB7F7C.jpeg" width="261" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This will later be turned under to form the front seam allowance.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I also ran a narrower 1/2" along what will become the seam allowance of the collar...again to give it a little more support.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBn-mQX00JALLkfb39C7T6_bUi_i9wMNJ31ZzVVXtDurFDj2fnbEW5fTFiPr6jLDvkeyuEdMXOA4EBVm7yQVD4hCzk5B4V_JEBb2_7CxKT9UKdhX7U6rWb-DXy2fzSsX1IJ_eNTe9QkvJCssoQNfPAsUzK6Fy9n7_DFWZKUZfEFzx7dvnUe1fx3Dg/s3569/116C29C5-8413-48E9-9D93-1DB5161FC236.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3569" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBn-mQX00JALLkfb39C7T6_bUi_i9wMNJ31ZzVVXtDurFDj2fnbEW5fTFiPr6jLDvkeyuEdMXOA4EBVm7yQVD4hCzk5B4V_JEBb2_7CxKT9UKdhX7U6rWb-DXy2fzSsX1IJ_eNTe9QkvJCssoQNfPAsUzK6Fy9n7_DFWZKUZfEFzx7dvnUe1fx3Dg/s320/116C29C5-8413-48E9-9D93-1DB5161FC236.jpeg" width="271" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then the partlet is joined at the shoulder seams in both the black wool outer fabric and linen lining.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The two are then sewn together (right side facing) on all edges, except for the front and under arms.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The seams allowance are clipped, pressed and the two pieces flipped.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqC-N-kyhvGWaul6M9MbjXqq4K4pw_e0rbSIKLo5YGWYVeH2i1iQ_wsZaQD94vS5xXhiwGecKlIC5CBKYhBboTM9RbxfhYq0bTK4xSnDeJcnCXjOgNYCKOmHg-MbSA0kKj8dJTisPY1KW11qsfN6rTSK5HzrT-OmiUMqxjhK5pVIJOeI4L2unsIWjI/s3704/68D5B422-FF4A-47EB-83D8-FB4CB69540A2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2824" data-original-width="3704" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqC-N-kyhvGWaul6M9MbjXqq4K4pw_e0rbSIKLo5YGWYVeH2i1iQ_wsZaQD94vS5xXhiwGecKlIC5CBKYhBboTM9RbxfhYq0bTK4xSnDeJcnCXjOgNYCKOmHg-MbSA0kKj8dJTisPY1KW11qsfN6rTSK5HzrT-OmiUMqxjhK5pVIJOeI4L2unsIWjI/s320/68D5B422-FF4A-47EB-83D8-FB4CB69540A2.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There is now a finished edge along the bottoms, arms, and collar.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next, the front 1" is folded under and stitched together.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is repeated on the underarms (but with only 1/2" turned)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkIb8g4Ns057fyTYjkaDna4yDuKUaAQXfzgCnSdV9LJVYnZhRSjcFBgq8J1pKxzYsel4sZvRRG9xqiYqhj6IiAmAmdKkDO2WFKytisII9nlGhiGwV98RNmBguH8_ucQYOnZm3G5c3lhoJGhlqxAZh_QK6RosQc4STbTunc7l8ZSRThXvarfJzgEzn/s3693/E0AC4B91-DCE0-436E-9D27-45083D814962.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3693" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkIb8g4Ns057fyTYjkaDna4yDuKUaAQXfzgCnSdV9LJVYnZhRSjcFBgq8J1pKxzYsel4sZvRRG9xqiYqhj6IiAmAmdKkDO2WFKytisII9nlGhiGwV98RNmBguH8_ucQYOnZm3G5c3lhoJGhlqxAZh_QK6RosQc4STbTunc7l8ZSRThXvarfJzgEzn/s320/E0AC4B91-DCE0-436E-9D27-45083D814962.jpeg" width="262" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSjzR0fOwdhbBvaCM5boXGiy0BWjmX-hsZnNOvIQ54AugGA-WQ9EiQ0qx-WJ-cqGgvNZ7_oMxgG6eAb2WbVCyqNkHG-tLrgN7z2kxbKDDxYC_GIWWnhlP6gryNAfPkOmYAp1YPlvJPVBgll_kqiqsINUsalZ4_-seZfvGhREWnQMqDVE19J0cEeRQM/s3297/ABB13E01-410F-4B40-B090-3D572D0971B1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3297" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSjzR0fOwdhbBvaCM5boXGiy0BWjmX-hsZnNOvIQ54AugGA-WQ9EiQ0qx-WJ-cqGgvNZ7_oMxgG6eAb2WbVCyqNkHG-tLrgN7z2kxbKDDxYC_GIWWnhlP6gryNAfPkOmYAp1YPlvJPVBgll_kqiqsINUsalZ4_-seZfvGhREWnQMqDVE19J0cEeRQM/s320/ABB13E01-410F-4B40-B090-3D572D0971B1.jpeg" width="293" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then the finished underarm seams are whipstitched together (trying to catch as much of the lining and as little of the top fabric as possible) </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTXZBeHBr0Il5g97MLqQ0fYa-9dAoDxY9kFLNLEqif5KWfw73EKvjtFBhSepAkxRvparbexRKIOy9oRApfG0vl4xjaq9BXYjJoZTYvYtYMTRnpH-nd70xOCu2QCa-66NbQZ4vQwIqvkK3t4j3cWUtqZGMd8NyZ-2MNGL_OEeulPXckqwi_VhZv6tWc/s3023/9D3F2D3B-E8D1-4020-B1E9-794593065FF5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2359" data-original-width="3023" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTXZBeHBr0Il5g97MLqQ0fYa-9dAoDxY9kFLNLEqif5KWfw73EKvjtFBhSepAkxRvparbexRKIOy9oRApfG0vl4xjaq9BXYjJoZTYvYtYMTRnpH-nd70xOCu2QCa-66NbQZ4vQwIqvkK3t4j3cWUtqZGMd8NyZ-2MNGL_OEeulPXckqwi_VhZv6tWc/s320/9D3F2D3B-E8D1-4020-B1E9-794593065FF5.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgza3bRDHxht2v0bUFuE_eDIGQQ_xdEoX8Yb-fIB8-YUaDFZUsRIW5XagNi3ZJHyaZFpfLjMNTKEA3SrRKzeLwWliCKdy1gVPqHQQOboXZvYg-AOPzXTlgnNPc321xe5BYS3PgAIGv3XSdcDm7GtXBmKCTelNoKZJN7FUYlbyl2SPku2zKEAo1aKURh/s3480/9BF91DE6-A833-4515-927F-9DE12E61E0A3.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2726" data-original-width="3480" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgza3bRDHxht2v0bUFuE_eDIGQQ_xdEoX8Yb-fIB8-YUaDFZUsRIW5XagNi3ZJHyaZFpfLjMNTKEA3SrRKzeLwWliCKdy1gVPqHQQOboXZvYg-AOPzXTlgnNPc321xe5BYS3PgAIGv3XSdcDm7GtXBmKCTelNoKZJN7FUYlbyl2SPku2zKEAo1aKURh/s320/9BF91DE6-A833-4515-927F-9DE12E61E0A3.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then the sleeves made up in the same black wool and linen lining. They are also finished on all sides and row of narrow cartridge pleats worked into the the sleeve head.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPD81Jy7MfmHqIpTl0GzJY2JAK0fbKBikqlahsgAD6X7t9tMuPUjLPEST3N1sMD-7k65KIECTXQ_SGRLD5pURVWGpFF_xMqBtukZ9qCqrWpWUs2GVa0n1_mTpguN89OXFBIjsod2U982kTSuX08j3m7ezq5ojVm1mA827MYXUHE5InFT75JLghsl2_/s3701/3B45B2A5-6EB1-40E1-AB83-7EFF0EA65D21.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2632" data-original-width="3701" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPD81Jy7MfmHqIpTl0GzJY2JAK0fbKBikqlahsgAD6X7t9tMuPUjLPEST3N1sMD-7k65KIECTXQ_SGRLD5pURVWGpFF_xMqBtukZ9qCqrWpWUs2GVa0n1_mTpguN89OXFBIjsod2U982kTSuX08j3m7ezq5ojVm1mA827MYXUHE5InFT75JLghsl2_/s320/3B45B2A5-6EB1-40E1-AB83-7EFF0EA65D21.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8dyO4vLrUkPjaQV6M1yoIwcRqLAtdMlAtbC4JRh9coLcFxYlJAEUdbfufU1lMEQjmL6780QgnVg1-yugI8KgEpxVQrWuBh0clgBnia2aKudO59-UuUTpw89R-p38XnA4DJ-5JM7axM6vKinvV-PFk2spDOWxd3_-UkVtdRma7W3LHBWJ6rAoCqarS/s3944/812B3F81-96ED-4664-B0E5-855DDCAF38BD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3944" data-original-width="2933" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8dyO4vLrUkPjaQV6M1yoIwcRqLAtdMlAtbC4JRh9coLcFxYlJAEUdbfufU1lMEQjmL6780QgnVg1-yugI8KgEpxVQrWuBh0clgBnia2aKudO59-UuUTpw89R-p38XnA4DJ-5JM7axM6vKinvV-PFk2spDOWxd3_-UkVtdRma7W3LHBWJ6rAoCqarS/s320/812B3F81-96ED-4664-B0E5-855DDCAF38BD.jpeg" width="238" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The sleeve is pinned into the finished armscye and whipstitched in.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQ3CSgQO6E5qD3DsbgOOWKy3sj1F1-mIVfsmNeoExksxVAdIeh3R0T1xV6k6Os3g0yErt7EyflZmTCXw9Qbr8ykMA-mY_7QcX9AdsswqMUTMfsl7rUHWCADxWTouh1iENKmf81weOH7WUXJ_r_-Hsd-3uZvFwIKPkZbWKFAA_KD-i8lEjVDF-9Aou/s3707/B14BE258-4D82-4EF3-BD23-1705EA7945D0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3707" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQ3CSgQO6E5qD3DsbgOOWKy3sj1F1-mIVfsmNeoExksxVAdIeh3R0T1xV6k6Os3g0yErt7EyflZmTCXw9Qbr8ykMA-mY_7QcX9AdsswqMUTMfsl7rUHWCADxWTouh1iENKmf81weOH7WUXJ_r_-Hsd-3uZvFwIKPkZbWKFAA_KD-i8lEjVDF-9Aou/s320/B14BE258-4D82-4EF3-BD23-1705EA7945D0.jpeg" width="261" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQC4EmNlppOdFTRj_sE0TPDthyf4bU4l26HgjLrERVzLxqhKSRZ58of_7NsOKbSnRsds7xH7Ra6Frahb_sWllGxeEkrkz1Dh2qLSUQaQnM0KpjEhJnkpSsw68LzOMrCSd4SnydT4BSdkfNIl0q2RhguBJYKOOgDYr-cEHTaRJjrobSb7dqiwJF4fq/s3747/9E84F88A-7364-490A-8D65-E81E4BDFB7AD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2611" data-original-width="3747" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQC4EmNlppOdFTRj_sE0TPDthyf4bU4l26HgjLrERVzLxqhKSRZ58of_7NsOKbSnRsds7xH7Ra6Frahb_sWllGxeEkrkz1Dh2qLSUQaQnM0KpjEhJnkpSsw68LzOMrCSd4SnydT4BSdkfNIl0q2RhguBJYKOOgDYr-cEHTaRJjrobSb7dqiwJF4fq/s320/9E84F88A-7364-490A-8D65-E81E4BDFB7AD.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Okay, that's two weird long-sleeved partlet things down!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTuLGDsJts_inDRKpLs6UqdNv8tyGH4OKhBXeZ40mnytZkUr3XQRF6suHITTDVKYsoYVeLpgBHXu3VJhHNOQ8iedLX0wG9JLolCAN7e8r089oir7M7-6sUYTtyv7ct0p885gJ0HFTXoPZeW1QE8yKhDIZtTyoQJQKEeb-crVHS70ntt1KhrXGjL1Co/s3574/23D0CE74-5060-410A-A9FC-EF2BF2527179.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2721" data-original-width="3574" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTuLGDsJts_inDRKpLs6UqdNv8tyGH4OKhBXeZ40mnytZkUr3XQRF6suHITTDVKYsoYVeLpgBHXu3VJhHNOQ8iedLX0wG9JLolCAN7e8r089oir7M7-6sUYTtyv7ct0p885gJ0HFTXoPZeW1QE8yKhDIZtTyoQJQKEeb-crVHS70ntt1KhrXGjL1Co/s320/23D0CE74-5060-410A-A9FC-EF2BF2527179.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgACguUXfdNdk7Dao7YT7vvPlUO3XF-qtA6Pi8D5S_JzrHwkq9qb6u5hcKoKPq5m-bTxW-0Fbhhxra5VxTAsuNaPn-FV7CYUktwwnbOkcDxrfXhYqqAZALYGPXSCfujAS-GW0InxHaZOCowXo-FQqG3j4xe16-J9AFaXIbjaEtUvEQSi_4AhtM11q-/s1844/1157223D-6A73-43CB-AEB6-B26C265F17A4.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1458" data-original-width="1844" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgACguUXfdNdk7Dao7YT7vvPlUO3XF-qtA6Pi8D5S_JzrHwkq9qb6u5hcKoKPq5m-bTxW-0Fbhhxra5VxTAsuNaPn-FV7CYUktwwnbOkcDxrfXhYqqAZALYGPXSCfujAS-GW0InxHaZOCowXo-FQqG3j4xe16-J9AFaXIbjaEtUvEQSi_4AhtM11q-/s320/1157223D-6A73-43CB-AEB6-B26C265F17A4.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqNb_eClJGGm6Cq_TpHHOxhVprhLnMJD1MeMKV9HZID10lME2J07lcgl7gJrrvVc4M0u6XyHFOC1a1YuY747rtWZEozAZinT9jJX6Q_sVXsoJvd85lQ5o09Z4UJZTR52MyRF81lOUIysfRZ7B_W9xkYWapZRs4iAa4F7D24by0uFUremLb92gCXynp/s1653/213425A8-AFDB-4431-93BC-2A9C5DA235AE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1346" data-original-width="1653" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqNb_eClJGGm6Cq_TpHHOxhVprhLnMJD1MeMKV9HZID10lME2J07lcgl7gJrrvVc4M0u6XyHFOC1a1YuY747rtWZEozAZinT9jJX6Q_sVXsoJvd85lQ5o09Z4UJZTR52MyRF81lOUIysfRZ7B_W9xkYWapZRs4iAa4F7D24by0uFUremLb92gCXynp/s320/213425A8-AFDB-4431-93BC-2A9C5DA235AE.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Next it's time to move on to the silk sashes.</div><div><br /></div><div>Now, I'm going to say right up front that I <i>HATE</i> working with silk...or at the very least I hated working with <i>this</i> silk.</div><div>I'd rather eat my own face with a grapefruit spoon than deal with this fray-factory again.</div><div><br /></div><div>Suffice to say, it was not fun...</div><div><br /></div><div>Let's start with the red one.</div><div>The sash is made from a single yard of red silk, cut in half (selvage to selvage) and whipstitched together along the selvage edge to create a long rectangle of approximately 17"x 106".</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1kTmPIIwRhlXed7yb3b1g4Wbu21FvQwtgPrG93Twk0SjlDjWNgvg9zCiendhfUf5-xWApLz-3qAw4freryDtvlsJy7MDHg-J2o9hsFLS1jYJacrrNUmcDTvnXCNq5uGHhx64jfMQYVFwvB6jVVaQHPs4fM3QyE0Z9omzNOLJQG0A6aev0R0YYOGM/s4032/C3BE122D-342C-48B4-BE1C-BA61AB86E78F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1kTmPIIwRhlXed7yb3b1g4Wbu21FvQwtgPrG93Twk0SjlDjWNgvg9zCiendhfUf5-xWApLz-3qAw4freryDtvlsJy7MDHg-J2o9hsFLS1jYJacrrNUmcDTvnXCNq5uGHhx64jfMQYVFwvB6jVVaQHPs4fM3QyE0Z9omzNOLJQG0A6aev0R0YYOGM/s320/C3BE122D-342C-48B4-BE1C-BA61AB86E78F.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div>Then the raw edges are finished with a small rolled hem.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDhYIbrRnUi6QFurJLC2m1wLmpXz4ZgTjy4LEFGFH0N3V1p0oeSBks6gxc-WoqCkC23bSVLaD98zK25_GyizYuiPhhrTmKojz9QkYZ0kR75aeMQpYTAUlIRd0OF6WK0ZLCtltxY9dL77kTsZIbN-HfzZlRjhdkPVfj7BqXPD1UZcitZEWlAoKCheg/s3023/6FAFCA9F-1645-49EC-8C78-80D4C7F21233.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2917" data-original-width="3023" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDhYIbrRnUi6QFurJLC2m1wLmpXz4ZgTjy4LEFGFH0N3V1p0oeSBks6gxc-WoqCkC23bSVLaD98zK25_GyizYuiPhhrTmKojz9QkYZ0kR75aeMQpYTAUlIRd0OF6WK0ZLCtltxY9dL77kTsZIbN-HfzZlRjhdkPVfj7BqXPD1UZcitZEWlAoKCheg/s320/6FAFCA9F-1645-49EC-8C78-80D4C7F21233.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The the red sash appears to be trimmed in gold lace.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMONZEygDRb0hrFzdimdRIUGpENWRl7tOlXB2CScH23Thy8K-n_FBAw4dObFJPCvRpUc_z3a7MjWrYj73tEZUT7tte4VQXjnwwwmETFWH3tXr01EAQOCMrhwT0pSebT8u22DCBUia3n8Ijq1lyU-W12m3qHkavNIOIIeO_5xB2A6a-xgjR4JldTXc/s1284/F76464C4-5674-4B68-852A-6EC4173C5326.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1284" data-original-width="1199" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMONZEygDRb0hrFzdimdRIUGpENWRl7tOlXB2CScH23Thy8K-n_FBAw4dObFJPCvRpUc_z3a7MjWrYj73tEZUT7tte4VQXjnwwwmETFWH3tXr01EAQOCMrhwT0pSebT8u22DCBUia3n8Ijq1lyU-W12m3qHkavNIOIIeO_5xB2A6a-xgjR4JldTXc/s320/F76464C4-5674-4B68-852A-6EC4173C5326.jpeg" width="299" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzop00d3YTyddQ-jGKocjc6B8radM-s4b75X_DDC4FlLqEp1aFvlKDXZIj2FqkK6j3EDfNdq_eY8eYFA_M2sZtpU8m4KyLe5f4rHn1HcjaAmqb4WdNmQTHbIV0JiiYYzxQRkZLFRlJ8rSjFoBT4xVkE4yh6XwuvbS3e93IsZRxovHQmWOLvA0NDt9q/s2048/6DCF402A-9F98-4FB8-A9D3-034683114D38.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzop00d3YTyddQ-jGKocjc6B8radM-s4b75X_DDC4FlLqEp1aFvlKDXZIj2FqkK6j3EDfNdq_eY8eYFA_M2sZtpU8m4KyLe5f4rHn1HcjaAmqb4WdNmQTHbIV0JiiYYzxQRkZLFRlJ8rSjFoBT4xVkE4yh6XwuvbS3e93IsZRxovHQmWOLvA0NDt9q/s320/6DCF402A-9F98-4FB8-A9D3-034683114D38.jpeg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFnORBl70clTgJamgvP8TCxm1sEaNN2lYseFofKTxVfIqcMIRwC0T6eQKqHvKVjlXlzkzXzLQgQvQCitYhXSEXiMVLsIpFmyqXZv9WWwaHkLgXYjrSFKySLBwnrO5o8L9173US_26nhxBACEPUXGlzP0s6KlzCPwtgLcagVhH74Mdj_6hGy3YYw1bN/s2048/FF35B65B-4F32-4033-B6F0-B8288C07A7E8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFnORBl70clTgJamgvP8TCxm1sEaNN2lYseFofKTxVfIqcMIRwC0T6eQKqHvKVjlXlzkzXzLQgQvQCitYhXSEXiMVLsIpFmyqXZv9WWwaHkLgXYjrSFKySLBwnrO5o8L9173US_26nhxBACEPUXGlzP0s6KlzCPwtgLcagVhH74Mdj_6hGy3YYw1bN/s320/FF35B65B-4F32-4033-B6F0-B8288C07A7E8.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>So I decide to trim in it narrow gold trim along the length and longer, scalloped trim on the ends.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Jk3yUMJ4IYGEaLZLlK3M0IyhG1C_XodO-fFkAA37XeJpJACpL5IFrOU5TBVziOooftfs0_mFaefoX5ycdekF2XZDRoxVy6Ive5W3GF6tlPiS7atbUB769hZUF__rvg11qT8KJNDD2e4WXE5At6985hOW7PWmtM3BmjzRMLcdEc8guuymiW99mltt/s2806/A653A0EB-72BD-4796-8B5E-DF492130D6BD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2572" data-original-width="2806" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Jk3yUMJ4IYGEaLZLlK3M0IyhG1C_XodO-fFkAA37XeJpJACpL5IFrOU5TBVziOooftfs0_mFaefoX5ycdekF2XZDRoxVy6Ive5W3GF6tlPiS7atbUB769hZUF__rvg11qT8KJNDD2e4WXE5At6985hOW7PWmtM3BmjzRMLcdEc8guuymiW99mltt/s320/A653A0EB-72BD-4796-8B5E-DF492130D6BD.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Although I prefer the lace on on the right, I decide the proportions of the lace on the left is closer to what I'm after in the painting.</div><div>The selected lace is then stitched to the finished edge with silk thread (with the wider lace on the narrow ends and smaller lace along the length).</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5z2v-N4xrEDtI9_wL-Rp4YjKZi6jrepOL-UaDpFG63Q-SOj92ayVqK-hQ9puV40syaLompKFCtgiQNSqDS2R4ftXK9aCZdKn7mdPCmeT8JfZwpbn8hOttRjRkbZFBuTVJGaQofLlAhXRR9kNHSal6pM3Bf8-VA23MwK2an4WTGE3Cj6qdEJ5S_2yD/s3704/840E51AF-A2ED-4F5C-93E1-4E1AE99F5CAC.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2969" data-original-width="3704" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5z2v-N4xrEDtI9_wL-Rp4YjKZi6jrepOL-UaDpFG63Q-SOj92ayVqK-hQ9puV40syaLompKFCtgiQNSqDS2R4ftXK9aCZdKn7mdPCmeT8JfZwpbn8hOttRjRkbZFBuTVJGaQofLlAhXRR9kNHSal6pM3Bf8-VA23MwK2an4WTGE3Cj6qdEJ5S_2yD/s320/840E51AF-A2ED-4F5C-93E1-4E1AE99F5CAC.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Moving onto the next sash...</div><div>After finding this higher contrast Alamy image I opt for a more rosy-beige than salmon. </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIwH2GRpmxdkIDYqVCOD76TTfKrpjM7uquBnDsHMvYaXsjTHJ_B3pAzeaES2OPi-kFjKILVPDOREVhcBjb2aVS-Wg02xhpSnF-ps1jsuAiGkiz2z0ofofLVfMgmohRNvI8jYdVRKf5PMCQzhJq1m0cleHhOunro21gOwtSs7y5vRnnMDaogHcVLHjP/s1390/8C5180D6-C6DB-49C7-B3D6-C5C8DAA78525.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1390" data-original-width="1009" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIwH2GRpmxdkIDYqVCOD76TTfKrpjM7uquBnDsHMvYaXsjTHJ_B3pAzeaES2OPi-kFjKILVPDOREVhcBjb2aVS-Wg02xhpSnF-ps1jsuAiGkiz2z0ofofLVfMgmohRNvI8jYdVRKf5PMCQzhJq1m0cleHhOunro21gOwtSs7y5vRnnMDaogHcVLHjP/w290-h400/8C5180D6-C6DB-49C7-B3D6-C5C8DAA78525.jpeg" width="290" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>But next sash is tricker. </div><div>Instead of lace it appears to be tasseled. </div><div>It is constructed in the same way as the red one, only instead of finishing the narrow ends, I pulled individual threads to create an approximately 4" tassel.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYmTHHQvvh1_OH3kiRPN-cBzyK85HwyEpdIaVc4HoAdPF1EKsXRql-ottlR9YOFNRJCZBF-fIz1sY2uNq6XtyzBhLvh5yoVvFkwv00UhJ5LITqhUsvr-Uc3z0F29m7-8ipWNmFbOQtHDme-OoUJYE_FEWNyMOUAeEhf5qx7ZqFdBWjnZs0bucK_PkG/s2769/F77C9B33-4C30-4BEF-B49E-6FEAC66D962C.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2769" data-original-width="2485" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYmTHHQvvh1_OH3kiRPN-cBzyK85HwyEpdIaVc4HoAdPF1EKsXRql-ottlR9YOFNRJCZBF-fIz1sY2uNq6XtyzBhLvh5yoVvFkwv00UhJ5LITqhUsvr-Uc3z0F29m7-8ipWNmFbOQtHDme-OoUJYE_FEWNyMOUAeEhf5qx7ZqFdBWjnZs0bucK_PkG/s320/F77C9B33-4C30-4BEF-B49E-6FEAC66D962C.jpeg" width="287" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7pDpKV6aP_o6Q-QX8Jjw9quXANs4RdT_aFsXZDbapOBwqYFYwdJr6JvmitAEsK1aGsV1y29rLWtpBoVizb8l6W5Y27dcFMoPSf8DvM87pg5ZljNwZU2IWa5rUy6WHkh627Pyij_KutlclBKh1hTeAHvB8x1YGNevnp0-CwlHGa6WIIWRkEHYZ6Ixt/s2754/F9646424-84E6-470E-A44E-F2DC40E13E21.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2754" data-original-width="1947" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7pDpKV6aP_o6Q-QX8Jjw9quXANs4RdT_aFsXZDbapOBwqYFYwdJr6JvmitAEsK1aGsV1y29rLWtpBoVizb8l6W5Y27dcFMoPSf8DvM87pg5ZljNwZU2IWa5rUy6WHkh627Pyij_KutlclBKh1hTeAHvB8x1YGNevnp0-CwlHGa6WIIWRkEHYZ6Ixt/s320/F9646424-84E6-470E-A44E-F2DC40E13E21.jpeg" width="226" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Now, remember how I said that this silk was a fray factory? Well, that was only along the weft (which made trying to do such a tiny hem <i>super</i> fun). But trying to pull from the warp was like pulling teeth! It took FOREVER.</div><div><br /></div><div>Have I mentioned how much I hate silk....?</div><div><br /></div><div>But it doesn't matter, because these suckers are now done!</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzTpl6FSNO23HQM84BbNLV4hU_sy_CauknTiJP7-4S3RwSHfZ5lh0u-n1QNBxCOJLyRZeUM0A2HOtDKCnWicLNu8gsarn5q-aEmd1pvhTSnKqmdqyAVpHoQti2Ke6DYx3oGnd7q-qf_Wbvwax2_1ah2p16VEQhC3T6KWysWjYHrcJ6roFoajGMUWQD/s3178/B7A2EE10-9289-4346-BCAC-985C98C19C63.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2407" data-original-width="3178" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzTpl6FSNO23HQM84BbNLV4hU_sy_CauknTiJP7-4S3RwSHfZ5lh0u-n1QNBxCOJLyRZeUM0A2HOtDKCnWicLNu8gsarn5q-aEmd1pvhTSnKqmdqyAVpHoQti2Ke6DYx3oGnd7q-qf_Wbvwax2_1ah2p16VEQhC3T6KWysWjYHrcJ6roFoajGMUWQD/s320/B7A2EE10-9289-4346-BCAC-985C98C19C63.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Next it's time to move on to the white cap...<div><br /><div>I started a write up for it here, but it sort of ballooned to a ridiculous length and it quickly became very clear that it needed to be its own post (which can be found <i><a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/dutch-split-tailed-coif.html">HERE</a></i>)</div><div><br /></div><div>Suffice to say, after attempting a few different styles I ended up with a tailed coif that I'm fairly happy with.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN_ywBCx965ixnZwR5o8a0FAzLQ55FiEXv3aCWuAOyvYM6tnCaWkhF12WLO5WfZHwFy2hUd51rl5Nt_ysg7ipgIBcU17jyx9P_GrE8eLh5m10KCbQw2qvewEY5TEmAr4zky4g5VJtUVGmSgpeOE2TVQT80BSxtvQTK5oxNcTHmK0VEAcaY5-y7n7wt/s3924/Cap_21.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3924" data-original-width="2942" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN_ywBCx965ixnZwR5o8a0FAzLQ55FiEXv3aCWuAOyvYM6tnCaWkhF12WLO5WfZHwFy2hUd51rl5Nt_ysg7ipgIBcU17jyx9P_GrE8eLh5m10KCbQw2qvewEY5TEmAr4zky4g5VJtUVGmSgpeOE2TVQT80BSxtvQTK5oxNcTHmK0VEAcaY5-y7n7wt/s320/Cap_21.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhreInd5YlyJJrya7mQfz9bGPJSVrDvr7zYNCBF6SvGmiUlxW_bEB5MfqB_TB_3XHVTtfQ-Sl-E013PAMi5rJM5lFuO_uo10PGwmXdqETxlWBJ6RdqBfvzRqXUqynxMfAO3fZNcng3dp6zHQjKEYCKuWDBxb5PxIo3cxwrlhvcULXHlgwoPyJFtNbTw/s3924/Cap_20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3924" data-original-width="2942" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhreInd5YlyJJrya7mQfz9bGPJSVrDvr7zYNCBF6SvGmiUlxW_bEB5MfqB_TB_3XHVTtfQ-Sl-E013PAMi5rJM5lFuO_uo10PGwmXdqETxlWBJ6RdqBfvzRqXUqynxMfAO3fZNcng3dp6zHQjKEYCKuWDBxb5PxIo3cxwrlhvcULXHlgwoPyJFtNbTw/s320/Cap_20.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9xpsckWTr0QtxhbMu1izKzpDC6RwIeyUnvwDYGG01zQQ8Y6VraoN-RJy-QV2JeoiQ8wq_dTmt7VQ8wWpH9UqQL8e1rLA7SZdqnYpATFn4YqJ1w6BGxeBeIeuGMfNPas9EIxoMGkq7DPy-ORx2lit9HEsTTkiKZkivI62XrmnotP2ZLNTV_IuSN-QH/s3924/Cap_19.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3924" data-original-width="2942" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9xpsckWTr0QtxhbMu1izKzpDC6RwIeyUnvwDYGG01zQQ8Y6VraoN-RJy-QV2JeoiQ8wq_dTmt7VQ8wWpH9UqQL8e1rLA7SZdqnYpATFn4YqJ1w6BGxeBeIeuGMfNPas9EIxoMGkq7DPy-ORx2lit9HEsTTkiKZkivI62XrmnotP2ZLNTV_IuSN-QH/s320/Cap_19.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijZl7lYCgX-zGEtpZGThc0639EO3pyr6oyK7VdTNwc4PyD-85YDHFro9kaP_hkfZTvTUwPaKdKBrsQl9guhwOwP4v9-NdrEIA7tu8lMnz87thsnzRfjuchYnzOqPkwEReEKaxmc00yYJBfw6wE4Qwws6IkM_7KbF-gZUm8bspmvQP5pqwCkMJ1SQeG/s2804/5018064E-BFEB-48A4-AB99-CFDFB16BB0AA.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2804" data-original-width="2200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijZl7lYCgX-zGEtpZGThc0639EO3pyr6oyK7VdTNwc4PyD-85YDHFro9kaP_hkfZTvTUwPaKdKBrsQl9guhwOwP4v9-NdrEIA7tu8lMnz87thsnzRfjuchYnzOqPkwEReEKaxmc00yYJBfw6wE4Qwws6IkM_7KbF-gZUm8bspmvQP5pqwCkMJ1SQeG/s320/5018064E-BFEB-48A4-AB99-CFDFB16BB0AA.jpeg" width="251" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>The final piece is my new small ruff, which was completed for my Aertsen outfit.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCOkfMCK4AEX5ZKp3TfSrS_TKTE_PN_0ywPurloRjiw633djfldEpFdbUHON3bUwKW-hG2y3UmmaumJIBOW9A0jhhOy8GYOAEJOktEy6U-EZeEGbpsjTUZhJmzy9a4_uh-LA_4Gb87pl_aQ5VqGgPuMWYpg94VefNUea17pdmw-z0NUVJRdMNcFQiL/s3522/4D52459A-61CA-4CCA-932C-7A69C4F19065.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3522" data-original-width="2678" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCOkfMCK4AEX5ZKp3TfSrS_TKTE_PN_0ywPurloRjiw633djfldEpFdbUHON3bUwKW-hG2y3UmmaumJIBOW9A0jhhOy8GYOAEJOktEy6U-EZeEGbpsjTUZhJmzy9a4_uh-LA_4Gb87pl_aQ5VqGgPuMWYpg94VefNUea17pdmw-z0NUVJRdMNcFQiL/w304-h400/4D52459A-61CA-4CCA-932C-7A69C4F19065.jpeg" width="304" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Next it's time to move on to the non-clothing accessories.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Now, I’m sure that any military history buffs out there are going to be having fits over the absolute hodgepodge I've thrown together...but, hey! If I can get over the weird clothing anachronism in the portraits you can get over my weird 17th c. flintlock!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And speaking of which...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPDOQK_wK0GOBkoh5wRb8VfSb13qqTN3vVJMY1lTcxewnawpUxcdaNseoUp1EquyDk39jesUBZz1rTSnFldnEWa7_KvrNVmTbojU2Qa5uUAy-iwyq7IqaPTYSmrdkRXelOynkC70bzawxqtW0TAoOrbdQKpS9LhF6WEXdxa0H-i3jZPpenveE7bio/s4032/6E176F4C-12C3-432C-BFB0-1D18446C586C.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNPDOQK_wK0GOBkoh5wRb8VfSb13qqTN3vVJMY1lTcxewnawpUxcdaNseoUp1EquyDk39jesUBZz1rTSnFldnEWa7_KvrNVmTbojU2Qa5uUAy-iwyq7IqaPTYSmrdkRXelOynkC70bzawxqtW0TAoOrbdQKpS9LhF6WEXdxa0H-i3jZPpenveE7bio/s320/6E176F4C-12C3-432C-BFB0-1D18446C586C.jpeg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnZfsnBwewnme1xAS2Eo5ElCXcHAd7YENkrIzM7PxqYhDRrxH8tEiO6yw6ZfRhnbK6EIUNZ8pZVqedkqQksQC8SFZdhBsXullVlZlEbMEe2Kw7aY7q6uiGX-cNvCFH6o2mbrqihsEqym17fZrOmzPgvQhhekmkihhnp6PLmBO13zx-ixW1NNUgcvpL/s4032/D226E58F-177D-4445-A750-A0C0DA9B5EC7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnZfsnBwewnme1xAS2Eo5ElCXcHAd7YENkrIzM7PxqYhDRrxH8tEiO6yw6ZfRhnbK6EIUNZ8pZVqedkqQksQC8SFZdhBsXullVlZlEbMEe2Kw7aY7q6uiGX-cNvCFH6o2mbrqihsEqym17fZrOmzPgvQhhekmkihhnp6PLmBO13zx-ixW1NNUgcvpL/s320/D226E58F-177D-4445-A750-A0C0DA9B5EC7.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Okay, I admit...I don't even know enough to appreciate the levels of shear wrongness this may or may not be.</div><div style="text-align: left;">But I tried to find the earliest pistol I could and this was the only style I was able to find with a round, wooden pommel (and being discontinued, it was actually pretty tricky to track down!).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Next is a vintage Moroccan powder flask. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_knzhbxn3zTdzmn9WlNZxWb93WuhF2mUJ-qh-3zqGRrVA2_DFdjVc5GDKhnULGdheBGtfbGVT7qe063YexgJZ7MxcCyh3DYOwpaeviZy_5L75FDHYfx6Gf28OkTn_wNzBbo8WK33PhklPiLaJEzPhp6I5nKzEHHrWHO9_hbFpuzCiZzA56305j2EP/s2608/66EEB0D6-65B8-4BC1-8A4C-51E6A577A605.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2608" data-original-width="1967" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_knzhbxn3zTdzmn9WlNZxWb93WuhF2mUJ-qh-3zqGRrVA2_DFdjVc5GDKhnULGdheBGtfbGVT7qe063YexgJZ7MxcCyh3DYOwpaeviZy_5L75FDHYfx6Gf28OkTn_wNzBbo8WK33PhklPiLaJEzPhp6I5nKzEHHrWHO9_hbFpuzCiZzA56305j2EP/s320/66EEB0D6-65B8-4BC1-8A4C-51E6A577A605.jpeg" width="241" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Wrong? Yup. But it'll do!</div><div style="text-align: left;">Don't worry, it gets better from here...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Next is a spear. The head is rounded for stage combat and general safety (with my luck I’d probably have dropped it and impaled one of the cats). It's mounted to a stained wooden dowl and finished with a burnt umber silk tassel.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Hhh0RfTnovohUzibOhPOVoNIODtNggNdJM1hLOASohsozeE0yzQ2b4OeYd4ofs0L-J5Cib40-fMEr7O9gro2KiFNj6JZ-ohBiiDfJhR8hteZ0zkAP3FdCXmCkZ2uUYqTd0BpGzE1ek2TyGWF6Q9Tl26qDsYm37H4uJXg0bwCWadtUu7yxrddPnso/s4032/D2289DD1-9262-4CE2-8095-230797A240C1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Hhh0RfTnovohUzibOhPOVoNIODtNggNdJM1hLOASohsozeE0yzQ2b4OeYd4ofs0L-J5Cib40-fMEr7O9gro2KiFNj6JZ-ohBiiDfJhR8hteZ0zkAP3FdCXmCkZ2uUYqTd0BpGzE1ek2TyGWF6Q9Tl26qDsYm37H4uJXg0bwCWadtUu7yxrddPnso/s320/D2289DD1-9262-4CE2-8095-230797A240C1.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And finally is a rapier with a leather hanger, custom made by<a href="https://jesse-belsky-stageswords.squarespace.com/sold-rapiers/hasselaar-rapier"> Jesse Belsky Stage Swords</a>. (Very snazzy!)</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidZrtmQBdDTdrwBWZw8NiwD69wSFAD9CU519pmObjtSgnL4QtV3wL7Pm5P0k4PcGcglr_kbhDaNB2D6w0DOcztU4nFWDneyQVPPhD4ASeTUri7ZYIqiLN56EHjWzHC6crUckKeZELFbf5f2lLAJ3vBb09wkEjaaAMN9NtmdcBnT3kbGT_kiU4-6uNx/s1468/4541D04A-A92C-4A31-ADF1-E7F3FED86495.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="817" data-original-width="1468" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidZrtmQBdDTdrwBWZw8NiwD69wSFAD9CU519pmObjtSgnL4QtV3wL7Pm5P0k4PcGcglr_kbhDaNB2D6w0DOcztU4nFWDneyQVPPhD4ASeTUri7ZYIqiLN56EHjWzHC6crUckKeZELFbf5f2lLAJ3vBb09wkEjaaAMN9NtmdcBnT3kbGT_kiU4-6uNx/s320/4541D04A-A92C-4A31-ADF1-E7F3FED86495.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioqBFU5LzkSX4BbETW8PNnrHW5SzODYXjG-WWymyMDWrj4SSjft0x2CdZod7MxOvsrQwXdrRyFBiqh8ieIBqZQdDwfu8R74k-tf6jWhJL5UdTiJWXDhtWjJq9ZXH2ZvSkQHFmhNnx_rfEyVHbP8P9FGt68ueEDU7Z-Mm7ZEB5HIZ8zttJwq3JrtByW/s1460/8E0922CA-F4C8-464E-82F7-B7F87CEA5D74.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1460" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioqBFU5LzkSX4BbETW8PNnrHW5SzODYXjG-WWymyMDWrj4SSjft0x2CdZod7MxOvsrQwXdrRyFBiqh8ieIBqZQdDwfu8R74k-tf6jWhJL5UdTiJWXDhtWjJq9ZXH2ZvSkQHFmhNnx_rfEyVHbP8P9FGt68ueEDU7Z-Mm7ZEB5HIZ8zttJwq3JrtByW/s320/8E0922CA-F4C8-464E-82F7-B7F87CEA5D74.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7jI2PMD8SarsNA8RlyS6qYwbdR2zUcaH1sEop7tngG7cBwPNAKZUyikW1BeJCP7DWvj5kpopW8yD2654M2oYHE2xDYr8d_aHb0AUnC8GwLP7xxRfzMtxYbSHm2ATkVs7iC6HssCAAdiUy8yvCWJxr4OJHC4BbpOOxhCpqYUhnYTUSv_qJy5fFpubi/s1464/F6C97491-9CDD-432E-B4D2-C73A127BB83F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="1464" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7jI2PMD8SarsNA8RlyS6qYwbdR2zUcaH1sEop7tngG7cBwPNAKZUyikW1BeJCP7DWvj5kpopW8yD2654M2oYHE2xDYr8d_aHb0AUnC8GwLP7xxRfzMtxYbSHm2ATkVs7iC6HssCAAdiUy8yvCWJxr4OJHC4BbpOOxhCpqYUhnYTUSv_qJy5fFpubi/s320/F6C97491-9CDD-432E-B4D2-C73A127BB83F.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnrZOdy1ZHTDBR1sR5RqazIK9AQvZ-NNupvXNXViKyo95GogxVbAlRBk3bcrSioVg-29BYBbOn_mhVuPzc1b9P8H-1t38DRLleadczBkpAeCZQ2EdnsNd0fL8S2Xf-wg4fyodKn-f6bqU4H8qUTl6m2y-61TASoHBKqEjj2eJSdYi5xciBgS5vOfdz/s750/1FE33175-A32E-49DC-A615-820E05EE1181.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnrZOdy1ZHTDBR1sR5RqazIK9AQvZ-NNupvXNXViKyo95GogxVbAlRBk3bcrSioVg-29BYBbOn_mhVuPzc1b9P8H-1t38DRLleadczBkpAeCZQ2EdnsNd0fL8S2Xf-wg4fyodKn-f6bqU4H8qUTl6m2y-61TASoHBKqEjj2eJSdYi5xciBgS5vOfdz/s320/1FE33175-A32E-49DC-A615-820E05EE1181.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>One last touch is a small medal (which appears in some of the etchings). </div><div>I was trying to find something with a Dutch lion, but ended up stumbling upon this vintage Renaissance Faire medallion, which I believe is from the late 80s or early 90s. I think it’s super charming.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KvmBYZx_rxr47sXxUiBwZAocH2Yz4vwTRn6mZiGqQyi_zt04C8q_Uoy4FtgxrijriqFyVnEJ_3rN_TiqJCFWQs9xB_sIdresAtsBWHp9L7gT5TyLkF9tWLGq2yCapg28poTx7UeeN0BIzYSoaNZwsFQO78x1KqRmU17YuIKV2ADn-AMWg04y6umf/s1959/88227EA7-1BFD-431F-A35F-596F4CB0AFA5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1959" data-original-width="1772" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KvmBYZx_rxr47sXxUiBwZAocH2Yz4vwTRn6mZiGqQyi_zt04C8q_Uoy4FtgxrijriqFyVnEJ_3rN_TiqJCFWQs9xB_sIdresAtsBWHp9L7gT5TyLkF9tWLGq2yCapg28poTx7UeeN0BIzYSoaNZwsFQO78x1KqRmU17YuIKV2ADn-AMWg04y6umf/s320/88227EA7-1BFD-431F-A35F-596F4CB0AFA5.jpeg" width="289" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG5kRSP-slOOkm2vDOc0VeQY9gkeenLw_GCV8NxRsNNiz7IWLY5yNG7IMDUQU56_xPZ21U_lvNgA0b_iwwZoa6LeUV9IJECqmOEtlfKGtNpbn41-7HB0oNtpoAB0cxdpbET80OJgsB9MvLR7obXYjCJk7w81RIUwQfEzb34dmdZswSEn39ZMHiu2e-/s3053/127D65AE-37DF-4AC2-8123-6EB04597CC9E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3053" data-original-width="2331" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG5kRSP-slOOkm2vDOc0VeQY9gkeenLw_GCV8NxRsNNiz7IWLY5yNG7IMDUQU56_xPZ21U_lvNgA0b_iwwZoa6LeUV9IJECqmOEtlfKGtNpbn41-7HB0oNtpoAB0cxdpbET80OJgsB9MvLR7obXYjCJk7w81RIUwQfEzb34dmdZswSEn39ZMHiu2e-/s320/127D65AE-37DF-4AC2-8123-6EB04597CC9E.jpeg" width="244" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">And I totally forget to wear it!</span></div><div><br /></div>And that's it! </div><div>The crazy mix-and match is done...in all of its bonkers glory!!!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimczZpRrv2U7SiLoMbcZCaQDHjwK98YIr0DWPvHDDy8EdCAwI9qV7dIpm5cnRvKyHx_gHtjIwr2Sx-g6dgV9NyKwZwEQQhP_TXJLaWIZPf_VYwQhFmuuRKbbGx0TwHoXNkU9WplOTwC_HUoUPf_k1_jzCsXr_tppZ5ypStgQFmCUni_cj0HYAA0PDj/s2048/A5FD2AC9-DBBD-447A-A9AD-331103156885.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1918" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimczZpRrv2U7SiLoMbcZCaQDHjwK98YIr0DWPvHDDy8EdCAwI9qV7dIpm5cnRvKyHx_gHtjIwr2Sx-g6dgV9NyKwZwEQQhP_TXJLaWIZPf_VYwQhFmuuRKbbGx0TwHoXNkU9WplOTwC_HUoUPf_k1_jzCsXr_tppZ5ypStgQFmCUni_cj0HYAA0PDj/w375-h400/A5FD2AC9-DBBD-447A-A9AD-331103156885.jpeg" width="375" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But then I dropped a PCV pipe on my face trying to set up a backdrop to take photos and split the bridge of my nose (<i>See</i>? I told you I couldn't be trusted with dangerous things...).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And so apart for a brief outing at the local Ren Faire (though <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/04/rust-brown-kirtle.html">restyled for early 17th.c</a>) this outfit sat in the closet for the better part of the last year.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But now my nose is healed, the backdrop is up, and this project is officially finished!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKzqevLmtFbIOdd9PpkXIJQBagDyyGyWMvOTR1cY49Rf3FGtmovnMdsGYeJQIGLBLMtBMxJSVTZEf65CTUy1W0Bs94fEmUMQZX2xKeSH9IiuNAvrM-_ZzYgd39eZM7KUN4fOkNJ5FhDlKjqWzPP3efoZp9BeC-3iirMQiJINt3Wr87klJUW_WKueS2/s4229/Kenau_02B%20copy-colour.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4229" data-original-width="2766" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKzqevLmtFbIOdd9PpkXIJQBagDyyGyWMvOTR1cY49Rf3FGtmovnMdsGYeJQIGLBLMtBMxJSVTZEf65CTUy1W0Bs94fEmUMQZX2xKeSH9IiuNAvrM-_ZzYgd39eZM7KUN4fOkNJ5FhDlKjqWzPP3efoZp9BeC-3iirMQiJINt3Wr87klJUW_WKueS2/w261-h400/Kenau_02B%20copy-colour.jpg" width="261" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVBN3rU2iFCrAKR6m4TSQ_Jp2h0wQDtMyeR4mnRiYHUjhAP12Leed1z5icEjKKcs2kRMApgObpug9xOUqwsNawiZtYxoAJkVip2MkmHQF9JYVzYyo4J9d2iHd8r-vG9LE_pkdg82mIdokN-aWDyFDwwr75iJj1H2M91AX-n5rZMJO-d0BGVAKH8unY/s1478/Kenau%20copy2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1478" data-original-width="982" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVBN3rU2iFCrAKR6m4TSQ_Jp2h0wQDtMyeR4mnRiYHUjhAP12Leed1z5icEjKKcs2kRMApgObpug9xOUqwsNawiZtYxoAJkVip2MkmHQF9JYVzYyo4J9d2iHd8r-vG9LE_pkdg82mIdokN-aWDyFDwwr75iJj1H2M91AX-n5rZMJO-d0BGVAKH8unY/w266-h400/Kenau%20copy2.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh22eyrQtKQiquB2_YMJIAY-lP0QG9hQ2RsCig5xBmuT-yWUbxeKq1ThU2Y4_azECpJibWUJktfQBTxK0-oLj3QmmbRqhurHzYAOOFYRHTO_SlnZsIaHeHxNTOY8qea76gQJQffEURgee500JBrKAeb8JaYn-OvtdgGbQqJGjd0yzZUBpnDpGwwvywX/s4320/Kenau_01A%20copy-colour.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4320" data-original-width="2978" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh22eyrQtKQiquB2_YMJIAY-lP0QG9hQ2RsCig5xBmuT-yWUbxeKq1ThU2Y4_azECpJibWUJktfQBTxK0-oLj3QmmbRqhurHzYAOOFYRHTO_SlnZsIaHeHxNTOY8qea76gQJQffEURgee500JBrKAeb8JaYn-OvtdgGbQqJGjd0yzZUBpnDpGwwvywX/w276-h400/Kenau_01A%20copy-colour.jpg" width="276" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_o7ZyHtyY-2gJE7oENV8zL96bL99AbWnRKM4DvgR5CT-IqIqx2m3y74Eqa5ZQIe8P9OlqFLSBGFCtOtuWpcBeg4cNnLJjcGGioDFOT4_pTZNnuwr5NCWj25bSZyk8wJbiS7YdATOjbeglWp_X9y_pPkN3jgziwa8FdSa-Owhj76WBRTFarvNQXtZs/s1284/F76464C4-5674-4B68-852A-6EC4173C5326.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1284" data-original-width="874" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_o7ZyHtyY-2gJE7oENV8zL96bL99AbWnRKM4DvgR5CT-IqIqx2m3y74Eqa5ZQIe8P9OlqFLSBGFCtOtuWpcBeg4cNnLJjcGGioDFOT4_pTZNnuwr5NCWj25bSZyk8wJbiS7YdATOjbeglWp_X9y_pPkN3jgziwa8FdSa-Owhj76WBRTFarvNQXtZs/w273-h400/F76464C4-5674-4B68-852A-6EC4173C5326.jpg" width="273" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZA5l8IiWOF3PQDzYginNX7vfnBMZkLSsCA75kPwlZkrI38WMNSN0uGtdGkusttc3QRVQMtOuze2HbqahbTlwbb96yLaDOFcm9IHUWfNrqyBx761J36Pf5naUsAupk5Jy6i5vGJog45y24z4dAADyK3MCSIkZ6Nx4D2931J1_9ETlzhFpL8mYlVqxH/s4257/Kenau_03A%20copy-colour.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4257" data-original-width="2822" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZA5l8IiWOF3PQDzYginNX7vfnBMZkLSsCA75kPwlZkrI38WMNSN0uGtdGkusttc3QRVQMtOuze2HbqahbTlwbb96yLaDOFcm9IHUWfNrqyBx761J36Pf5naUsAupk5Jy6i5vGJog45y24z4dAADyK3MCSIkZ6Nx4D2931J1_9ETlzhFpL8mYlVqxH/w265-h400/Kenau_03A%20copy-colour.jpg" width="265" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejhn_XUS9Dr1afSjI6X51VZnqko95ZOpRFAFrigS1CKU3zkTkIoG4kENFCHmIQT5nX13jakhNI8_WJLYjjqYAWd4n83o-2E5i2Udx_p4PpSDkhg0WM2P-eQ86Z9wwK1rz-w8JskBaX4DZY22ch0y-NMv2TVJzAJzGRCzy68yJhBpOp8emYqK88Btz/s1752/9AA8A844-10BF-4926-BAE2-54D82013E493.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1752" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejhn_XUS9Dr1afSjI6X51VZnqko95ZOpRFAFrigS1CKU3zkTkIoG4kENFCHmIQT5nX13jakhNI8_WJLYjjqYAWd4n83o-2E5i2Udx_p4PpSDkhg0WM2P-eQ86Z9wwK1rz-w8JskBaX4DZY22ch0y-NMv2TVJzAJzGRCzy68yJhBpOp8emYqK88Btz/w274-h400/9AA8A844-10BF-4926-BAE2-54D82013E493.jpeg" width="274" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div>***</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Pattern: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-<a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/">The Tudor Tailor</a> (book and/or ready-made pattern as a starting point. Now heavily edited)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-<a href="http://www.marquisofwinchesters.co.uk/2017/01/23/living-history-guide-coifs-and-hair/">The Marquess of Winchester</a> Coif #4 (with significant edits)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Fabric:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Rust worsted wool from FB marketplace.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Black "Judy" linen (5.5 oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Red and rosy-beige silk from <a href="http://moodfabrics.com">Mood Fabrics</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Hemp/cotton muslin for interlining (10.5) from <a href="http://www.hemptraders.com/">Hemp Traders</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Muslin for mockup (also from Hemp Traders, but any muslin should do)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Trim and Notions:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Black Shindo cotton herringbone tape (3mm, 6mm & 15mm) from <a href="http://sic.ribbons.jp">Ribbons</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Gold lace trim from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/lacetrimwholesalers?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=468340451">lacetrimwholesalers</a> on Etsy</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Linen tape (1/4") from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Thread:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Black silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Blue silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Black buttonhole thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Rust cotton</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-White cotton thread (silk finish) for coif and partlets</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Boning:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-7mm Plastic coated spring steel bones (4) from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=68&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-5mm Synthetic whalebone also from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=137&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Other Supplies:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Swedish pattern paper from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sewable-Swedish-Tracing-Paper-Inches/dp/B000PNEWVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383452754&sr=8-1&keywords=swiss+pattern+paper">Amazon</a>. (This stuff is great! You can iron it!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Pattern weights</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-Eyelet tape (for mockup)</div></div></div></div></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-51551170481552579372022-11-07T15:47:00.039-08:002023-02-26T10:36:19.491-08:00Dutch Split-Tailed Coif<p style="text-align: center;"> <span style="text-align: center;"> </span><span style="text-align: center;"> </span><span style="text-align: center;">***</span></p><div>I was mid write-up on an <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer-outfit.html">upcoming post</a> for an outfit inspired by the Dutch folk hero, Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer, when I realized this coif needed to be it's own post.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8BCzUHjL88btTS5-kA7VOxL_VduApUxM8YLZDKASDAAX_Bzapn7SCN4OiP0Qt9qqQiWeQ25ZXC_4GQPr6hM_c-RrYkwZRekMjc4LCGNyrrKSb088oDb0CwKqoApoXJP3KXp9nHvCykU6jH3KS-yMqBPMFXOumI2HgQyFeTLrt1PGKyducWlSL572b/s2881/Barbel-01%20copy%20DS.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2881" data-original-width="2165" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8BCzUHjL88btTS5-kA7VOxL_VduApUxM8YLZDKASDAAX_Bzapn7SCN4OiP0Qt9qqQiWeQ25ZXC_4GQPr6hM_c-RrYkwZRekMjc4LCGNyrrKSb088oDb0CwKqoApoXJP3KXp9nHvCykU6jH3KS-yMqBPMFXOumI2HgQyFeTLrt1PGKyducWlSL572b/s320/Barbel-01%20copy%20DS.jpg" width="240" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidjB6ASYAEtWhwyOqZLsP3PHgAQSyc3L_v_63RCswGgnzW2gFpj5nADfN3UaP28sBjZzlqwTmptnp24ZoIIrha55G2w-N2MESEHD31BtGDbheJM_mtswrzMHSJxBOIbPQYdNFvoU9b6_7miATK6N2GJaktVIEh0wfzD49xy8u4OJVwvhwNOUHop-TM/s2881/Barbel-02%20copy%20DS.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2881" data-original-width="2165" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidjB6ASYAEtWhwyOqZLsP3PHgAQSyc3L_v_63RCswGgnzW2gFpj5nADfN3UaP28sBjZzlqwTmptnp24ZoIIrha55G2w-N2MESEHD31BtGDbheJM_mtswrzMHSJxBOIbPQYdNFvoU9b6_7miATK6N2GJaktVIEh0wfzD49xy8u4OJVwvhwNOUHop-TM/s320/Barbel-02%20copy%20DS.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">(Please excuse the weird, super wide-angle lens of the iPhone's reverse view</span><span style="font-size: small;">)</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Let me back up a bit...<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">As part of my research into my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer.html">Keanu inspired outfit</a> I hit a stumbling block as to what sort of head covering to make. <br />She is featured in multiple paintings, etching and pamphlets. While the pose and styling remains fairly consistent across most images, there is one significant point of difference: the coifs (caps? veils?).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejhn_XUS9Dr1afSjI6X51VZnqko95ZOpRFAFrigS1CKU3zkTkIoG4kENFCHmIQT5nX13jakhNI8_WJLYjjqYAWd4n83o-2E5i2Udx_p4PpSDkhg0WM2P-eQ86Z9wwK1rz-w8JskBaX4DZY22ch0y-NMv2TVJzAJzGRCzy68yJhBpOp8emYqK88Btz/s1752/9AA8A844-10BF-4926-BAE2-54D82013E493.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1752" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejhn_XUS9Dr1afSjI6X51VZnqko95ZOpRFAFrigS1CKU3zkTkIoG4kENFCHmIQT5nX13jakhNI8_WJLYjjqYAWd4n83o-2E5i2Udx_p4PpSDkhg0WM2P-eQ86Z9wwK1rz-w8JskBaX4DZY22ch0y-NMv2TVJzAJzGRCzy68yJhBpOp8emYqK88Btz/s320/9AA8A844-10BF-4926-BAE2-54D82013E493.jpeg" width="219" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5fhZVvR2AjB-A76hGlZ5ZAtbXkR6oGr_E5o6l7CVk01z9XvPLP8GYoofieqat0Q5Frlrd0BBLTC6-_EglyKpf6QQn7yLbwjQTDSfE1BPy_sOKHqSIagqrufLe37wUIUXg5Ym2YYRvD0W0SYUpfPt9S9Z6KLzDpi_eHS4Al4Np3IoR-I58nvOJkMBh/s1898/AF134377-1678-4B10-BE41-C76404B9AF88.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1898" data-original-width="1199" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5fhZVvR2AjB-A76hGlZ5ZAtbXkR6oGr_E5o6l7CVk01z9XvPLP8GYoofieqat0Q5Frlrd0BBLTC6-_EglyKpf6QQn7yLbwjQTDSfE1BPy_sOKHqSIagqrufLe37wUIUXg5Ym2YYRvD0W0SYUpfPt9S9Z6KLzDpi_eHS4Al4Np3IoR-I58nvOJkMBh/s320/AF134377-1678-4B10-BE41-C76404B9AF88.jpeg" width="202" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Broadly these fall into two categories: <br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">1) Tails tied over the head...</div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlH9Mrne45rlllYs0x01salNgRnm5Qb-M0R4odDeKM5EKIsW1pvLjnQcoMbzBDLWq_bAiNeYQ0ucL3DXv09KCQD-E-wD1fvqfCmRsB6_zI5UKJNxZNe3SZV7bBEiHio1KeTIlKXAwgBzuCzt5pVbWVEeUIztXG4pKSSCwvULRQue9dqCjiLoX154Np/s719/2E0D2B70-635B-4D32-A5A0-B17027488B39.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="578" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlH9Mrne45rlllYs0x01salNgRnm5Qb-M0R4odDeKM5EKIsW1pvLjnQcoMbzBDLWq_bAiNeYQ0ucL3DXv09KCQD-E-wD1fvqfCmRsB6_zI5UKJNxZNe3SZV7bBEiHio1KeTIlKXAwgBzuCzt5pVbWVEeUIztXG4pKSSCwvULRQue9dqCjiLoX154Np/w161-h200/2E0D2B70-635B-4D32-A5A0-B17027488B39.jpeg" width="161" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZevpRRnAo2MFVch4Xd2C954__nWrln8kKOHKKmr9TVfn-QoXPHovj4K5BS5BqiED6NQkUmtCFXd015EfnFDxGVby3qAGg6hQC2eDAWDYBb27E8uCBRXCxa3L-nhY7Kyq75UIYWeGlZv_0dYZWdlSczWtTBrYdclQvp3I_1xHr4ii8xY-HFy_gNFxq/s459/3D6078AC-3C3A-4AFF-BB5C-EED4B8F14A98.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="459" data-original-width="398" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZevpRRnAo2MFVch4Xd2C954__nWrln8kKOHKKmr9TVfn-QoXPHovj4K5BS5BqiED6NQkUmtCFXd015EfnFDxGVby3qAGg6hQC2eDAWDYBb27E8uCBRXCxa3L-nhY7Kyq75UIYWeGlZv_0dYZWdlSczWtTBrYdclQvp3I_1xHr4ii8xY-HFy_gNFxq/w173-h200/3D6078AC-3C3A-4AFF-BB5C-EED4B8F14A98.jpeg" width="173" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvfbk0VkgK-im6SudlzzYv1UvOfZ2sKHkASBDXpwMPNje4V6kuuwt6lonG2YCP9i4WzYRCU2q1gqPTqeFKMm4qSIHjTdbME6Tan9CI0ZhRIssSZAKY11N7L37B9erUegAUvuXTBMVjvgC6o6WbcgKRuIRKd4d9f-1sO27tRpezQeWWoNEZ1ld1GpQx/s489/AFAACCF5-F0B8-4290-9AE2-69760DA101EA.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="489" data-original-width="406" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvfbk0VkgK-im6SudlzzYv1UvOfZ2sKHkASBDXpwMPNje4V6kuuwt6lonG2YCP9i4WzYRCU2q1gqPTqeFKMm4qSIHjTdbME6Tan9CI0ZhRIssSZAKY11N7L37B9erUegAUvuXTBMVjvgC6o6WbcgKRuIRKd4d9f-1sO27tRpezQeWWoNEZ1ld1GpQx/w166-h200/AFAACCF5-F0B8-4290-9AE2-69760DA101EA.jpeg" width="166" /></a></p><p>2) Tails down...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo8MndxnMN1ocZRJo8ebwlTqe26iv483h0Ob7qwectRv01LQ8QEyyuEr_Q1VokhIK2HKnlerbQ4uol4GppEXCIgL_sM8xujNaH-mHJvF6ja5t45VS8ZVqTYnIQv7q-3tqhz8J-Ao3o3JGFpxNbTwo-kT-0ZYkk6JO9_PPoGfA-ugy8ELcPpKHVrwfL/s969/5ADF2C00-F43D-41AE-BF7E-668F3E163C6F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="969" data-original-width="692" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo8MndxnMN1ocZRJo8ebwlTqe26iv483h0Ob7qwectRv01LQ8QEyyuEr_Q1VokhIK2HKnlerbQ4uol4GppEXCIgL_sM8xujNaH-mHJvF6ja5t45VS8ZVqTYnIQv7q-3tqhz8J-Ao3o3JGFpxNbTwo-kT-0ZYkk6JO9_PPoGfA-ugy8ELcPpKHVrwfL/w143-h200/5ADF2C00-F43D-41AE-BF7E-668F3E163C6F.jpeg" width="143" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZTvAsAeTD9e7sjD2VxMz-OeTl756sQLPYq_4Znt1PhWGfMcEINL3K4gD3HqCCEU1Tw0gFjKwp2GFEVIJCMQp5YO62P-UQ_r-fUBHoHq05aUzlZcHkSYfyMIZligzqH-gkYrTWISCMFEHdiIni1IgrceVETa_MU_MlHAXAXEryBfnuKV9rGvHAlmH/s373/8DD07218-1C7B-45D5-9F05-10BA9829B0E9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="373" data-original-width="340" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZTvAsAeTD9e7sjD2VxMz-OeTl756sQLPYq_4Znt1PhWGfMcEINL3K4gD3HqCCEU1Tw0gFjKwp2GFEVIJCMQp5YO62P-UQ_r-fUBHoHq05aUzlZcHkSYfyMIZligzqH-gkYrTWISCMFEHdiIni1IgrceVETa_MU_MlHAXAXEryBfnuKV9rGvHAlmH/w183-h200/8DD07218-1C7B-45D5-9F05-10BA9829B0E9.jpeg" width="183" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTE3alkJthcmEaOhhzTG91iU8OPmcQnkL1HrPcd4l0fEyPWqcFB-wE5DQwXT5IkkFj2zXURgpOzRH8QF2OtFFMsGTAFuAWarMqsd1pq8hPvlI-W35bddMOl-_rL3hkZy6xmgvVCZ8Z3oxNUvQgLNEVdyiGfmGkz69BDsRtUmu1qo2x9K9LDv-zBd5/s354/1D2CD277-9A44-4531-B7E2-F22DB165B86A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="354" data-original-width="273" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTE3alkJthcmEaOhhzTG91iU8OPmcQnkL1HrPcd4l0fEyPWqcFB-wE5DQwXT5IkkFj2zXURgpOzRH8QF2OtFFMsGTAFuAWarMqsd1pq8hPvlI-W35bddMOl-_rL3hkZy6xmgvVCZ8Z3oxNUvQgLNEVdyiGfmGkz69BDsRtUmu1qo2x9K9LDv-zBd5/w154-h200/1D2CD277-9A44-4531-B7E2-F22DB165B86A.jpeg" width="154" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I believe both are representative of a Dutch style that really flummoxes me: the tailed veil.<div><br /></div><div>What<i> exactly</i> is going on here?</div><div><br /></div><div>Let's consider the second version with the loose tails (assuming the first is the same but with the ends tied over the head). This style of head-covering is fairly typical of mid to late 16th c. Dutch fashion.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwE9Vy1uEC9FxfPodNik6w8nwC176VLWunLw8XpVm9D6g2YM5VmCuyjiv2GaEcEt60mRa9_iSUHviFkz71lx2LKyCGiFw1hsn9T-SWeMsE_8w_b_7NpKDl7ncqDmvu6_Moc_qOKexJ-2Nm_TPEMPT-OKCtIXaixIC0nRTrJjnU6av6YsM5SLZHk9yA/s509/1F5AE7AB-9546-497B-9D6B-4FEBC4BE7764.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="509" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwE9Vy1uEC9FxfPodNik6w8nwC176VLWunLw8XpVm9D6g2YM5VmCuyjiv2GaEcEt60mRa9_iSUHviFkz71lx2LKyCGiFw1hsn9T-SWeMsE_8w_b_7NpKDl7ncqDmvu6_Moc_qOKexJ-2Nm_TPEMPT-OKCtIXaixIC0nRTrJjnU6av6YsM5SLZHk9yA/s320/1F5AE7AB-9546-497B-9D6B-4FEBC4BE7764.jpeg" width="314" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pieter Jansz Pourbus, 1550s<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Although to looks like a close fitting coif, it's more probably a very intricately folded veil which evolved from earlier styles.</div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie7SfkkALcTwxBb0UpUNHEuEo_3OBWFhIOY5XzCpQ67NKg-7N-UNhqxF0s4-PUjJ23hr5iKMpbM_GMBi6X2PXJb3vUnJiu2SaaBiygkicQgkCj4KYd9SqonuoReXwe0-Dr2Tu-f71Qfvy9asRi9sVL6dO1c2yd55uxQrGqjRq8__4WNPaa95MRTbhT/s1200/61E14D4D-7581-44E8-9816-25CEB60E20C0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="712" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie7SfkkALcTwxBb0UpUNHEuEo_3OBWFhIOY5XzCpQ67NKg-7N-UNhqxF0s4-PUjJ23hr5iKMpbM_GMBi6X2PXJb3vUnJiu2SaaBiygkicQgkCj4KYd9SqonuoReXwe0-Dr2Tu-f71Qfvy9asRi9sVL6dO1c2yd55uxQrGqjRq8__4WNPaa95MRTbhT/s320/61E14D4D-7581-44E8-9816-25CEB60E20C0.jpeg" width="190" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj65ZIbaiQfkdYmLCrerZ9O7YPGpaU3GmrHp_IHTNVrQjUodD79qU_Y6sqIl6DoHw75buNK_M0InBiNeGEMl8ELDU101B3Jgb1AFTV268-7suq64BGGhbvCCPkpNQyyhfLzIxcLP3_Qb6L9au2rrTU3XAA15XnyN-hHMV1jOhBg05VkVtQLA72bUKff/s1200/CAB2B56A-AD1F-46F5-A609-7FAE849728DD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj65ZIbaiQfkdYmLCrerZ9O7YPGpaU3GmrHp_IHTNVrQjUodD79qU_Y6sqIl6DoHw75buNK_M0InBiNeGEMl8ELDU101B3Jgb1AFTV268-7suq64BGGhbvCCPkpNQyyhfLzIxcLP3_Qb6L9au2rrTU3XAA15XnyN-hHMV1jOhBg05VkVtQLA72bUKff/s320/CAB2B56A-AD1F-46F5-A609-7FAE849728DD.jpeg" width="279" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ6G1FNlZEDn0TXwAboRoxRYIBPO9gp8HWCB383ZVoN0j94xDiyPvBvicEH4TezehfQGphTbAvWhs9Ui9kzc66zpHQW8l6tf1vyz7zinXtbn7P7podO3nHmaVpr7cSvuHwwb764_RO0nh3NRzkn7NMRYcShNZEzin772PftvP5uD09d7tOvM0DmCoA/s1500/59AE3515-C859-4770-A516-D7213E5DD01E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1108" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ6G1FNlZEDn0TXwAboRoxRYIBPO9gp8HWCB383ZVoN0j94xDiyPvBvicEH4TezehfQGphTbAvWhs9Ui9kzc66zpHQW8l6tf1vyz7zinXtbn7P7podO3nHmaVpr7cSvuHwwb764_RO0nh3NRzkn7NMRYcShNZEzin772PftvP5uD09d7tOvM0DmCoA/s320/59AE3515-C859-4770-A516-D7213E5DD01E.jpeg" width="236" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuc2klSSWXUcI29xQa4xc4yRl9q5uwqilyxWB3kg-sMFPjhHP1et09mjaB-0CXHfwJUzOpCX4Lc1c8Tq3qqgnxjtpbbWSejCG8ZzUtlMEVSo5LuOOZ91YbfAhlg2u3ZQ47foZKnXukVBCk-9Rmn7lS4vZFCUCYUtETUuNFtbv9EdbNmfUtJrlhJJFF/s544/4D6C7E91-6AEF-424E-80FE-2FDBA278D7F1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="544" data-original-width="448" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuc2klSSWXUcI29xQa4xc4yRl9q5uwqilyxWB3kg-sMFPjhHP1et09mjaB-0CXHfwJUzOpCX4Lc1c8Tq3qqgnxjtpbbWSejCG8ZzUtlMEVSo5LuOOZ91YbfAhlg2u3ZQ47foZKnXukVBCk-9Rmn7lS4vZFCUCYUtETUuNFtbv9EdbNmfUtJrlhJJFF/s320/4D6C7E91-6AEF-424E-80FE-2FDBA278D7F1.jpeg" width="264" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo9pa6nL0km0wZllLw8oCcZ3DM0a8F9le3XGYdUGL9snysnhdMU2DcgZ6gySzN8yxJKyCbQh3nSjKHN4ebGOf_KXZLreTedipwU97NN-wQV21r85ZlOpMwS77YuzEwoPm94p0Y898WLlmt8mZ5ha3yo1AMwUjsSeGpw2bXsP4TTzk3ELERW7YXifWc/s1584/7DB2D9FF-12A3-4A38-87FD-D1FE89812F23.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1584" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo9pa6nL0km0wZllLw8oCcZ3DM0a8F9le3XGYdUGL9snysnhdMU2DcgZ6gySzN8yxJKyCbQh3nSjKHN4ebGOf_KXZLreTedipwU97NN-wQV21r85ZlOpMwS77YuzEwoPm94p0Y898WLlmt8mZ5ha3yo1AMwUjsSeGpw2bXsP4TTzk3ELERW7YXifWc/s320/7DB2D9FF-12A3-4A38-87FD-D1FE89812F23.jpeg" width="242" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU4p2sX7l4ntrbAf3lOBpwp7WWFL91WqDoeSuuOMfQOmPw7wgDCOEKJFaxN0eLyhCqhA3s09_tjAaDGpzc0xlLo54qAJRfjpl_qxSXh_RYWoOqb_Fa09QNla-HXzLxg85KYI-HQlcYOyMQ-1Nl2Gis0Z5k67UswDdmvdDOuXF-SiDZFuB90Ggw8vRa/s661/C78F333B-C8EE-47D5-B553-B430E66399EE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="661" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU4p2sX7l4ntrbAf3lOBpwp7WWFL91WqDoeSuuOMfQOmPw7wgDCOEKJFaxN0eLyhCqhA3s09_tjAaDGpzc0xlLo54qAJRfjpl_qxSXh_RYWoOqb_Fa09QNla-HXzLxg85KYI-HQlcYOyMQ-1Nl2Gis0Z5k67UswDdmvdDOuXF-SiDZFuB90Ggw8vRa/s320/C78F333B-C8EE-47D5-B553-B430E66399EE.jpeg" width="242" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg336yMD6e98HCqpM_hG1hQPvDF0pVZTKE55Si-uXaw2POkNQpMSRBxehE50q1zjv8yc7d-PYhD-k5kUfWyxS_n3lzp253DLQPR-EV6O27dTCDmRXiglniGFWIxI6hJvC_TOxvfkQXKwvCQIpEOWuFj-IBYy52v3VvuoWmhtmJG0jTpZ5kIUJhPmRZM/s1310/6EB89A47-FA85-4B1F-BEA2-D5BF44173455.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1310" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg336yMD6e98HCqpM_hG1hQPvDF0pVZTKE55Si-uXaw2POkNQpMSRBxehE50q1zjv8yc7d-PYhD-k5kUfWyxS_n3lzp253DLQPR-EV6O27dTCDmRXiglniGFWIxI6hJvC_TOxvfkQXKwvCQIpEOWuFj-IBYy52v3VvuoWmhtmJG0jTpZ5kIUJhPmRZM/s320/6EB89A47-FA85-4B1F-BEA2-D5BF44173455.jpeg" width="244" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4UwfZl5b0kAlo9JG3VpedFZZaNrtgfjB-uWUDa1sFKqcIg6VPsMNWn3GufrvhBETlfSXFa7nR9NGJnDQWyxAm1fj677_WClW0qgMSffvW-Wp5UIGGBtUzna40aQzTxet4nqIth0oyMIfcaQfvC94cs5q_TzlMb92QDxot8vsMXO2G4s_2g29vwnKJ/s800/2B4268FC-35EC-4029-B4B9-63D9F652862E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="647" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4UwfZl5b0kAlo9JG3VpedFZZaNrtgfjB-uWUDa1sFKqcIg6VPsMNWn3GufrvhBETlfSXFa7nR9NGJnDQWyxAm1fj677_WClW0qgMSffvW-Wp5UIGGBtUzna40aQzTxet4nqIth0oyMIfcaQfvC94cs5q_TzlMb92QDxot8vsMXO2G4s_2g29vwnKJ/s320/2B4268FC-35EC-4029-B4B9-63D9F652862E.jpeg" width="259" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3RNe9rtBM-ptSGf-PaaMSHtml_V6GSPCLaxJ4ybFuF8cflqrRhXMB1EsSvJmsdmQBMqWyI9pnKfy2qutPORWudf3YRluA8f7ja21N9prxUBT6OFvKixsNbwetRGVevspDlB9G1bPeLYtb8-hHOz_dd7I2VvAGPqyTdOTVcssewE2Z8qbL3wf9q_QE/s650/C82947CC-D883-4CEF-BF11-3A042CA16170.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="485" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3RNe9rtBM-ptSGf-PaaMSHtml_V6GSPCLaxJ4ybFuF8cflqrRhXMB1EsSvJmsdmQBMqWyI9pnKfy2qutPORWudf3YRluA8f7ja21N9prxUBT6OFvKixsNbwetRGVevspDlB9G1bPeLYtb8-hHOz_dd7I2VvAGPqyTdOTVcssewE2Z8qbL3wf9q_QE/s320/C82947CC-D883-4CEF-BF11-3A042CA16170.jpeg" width="239" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsufFSHEzwb1PfVOPdquuLbK67P_5T48SlLuznUVJnzn72vwxwKr2gnKKcVi3Owh7LxBThXcxqaLb3yOWn0SfmlK5U4agJOb6W3XbHR_OnpF7XE9dOoi_SAwQLcupiqJelVAC-TwBsWHwdpYeKjf2VFEi2EfoTPGlR9uypRaeRXd521htYbZMvPTTJ/s570/3FBBC1D2-EDB2-403B-8E18-DF782B099E77.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="426" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsufFSHEzwb1PfVOPdquuLbK67P_5T48SlLuznUVJnzn72vwxwKr2gnKKcVi3Owh7LxBThXcxqaLb3yOWn0SfmlK5U4agJOb6W3XbHR_OnpF7XE9dOoi_SAwQLcupiqJelVAC-TwBsWHwdpYeKjf2VFEi2EfoTPGlR9uypRaeRXd521htYbZMvPTTJ/s320/3FBBC1D2-EDB2-403B-8E18-DF782B099E77.jpeg" width="239" /></a></p><div style="text-align: left;">Now, I'm going to say right out the gate that I have no idea how this was achieved.<i> Zero.</i> None.</div><div style="text-align: left;">I've tried folding your standard rectangular veils and couldn't even get close. I'm not sure if I have the shape wrong or if the fabric just isn't fine enough (and probably both) but it's a non-starter.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">There's no way I can (currently) make a rectangular, tailed veil work.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So instead let's take a detour further back in time (just for fun).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The version with the ties above the head is not too dissimilar to the "tailed caps" of the mid 15th century.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOBBTsDMuiDXI9aoTNlti4MJCAAjpgpIsC_AqCSXqaA7R4bpi8Nrbaw42slU8z505D4NYGOfkOJeZjdTHz88qPxC9Z_WeW0dUYKN4B_g5FxdXSJqr1qCaTySukRZL6UN_g9xkSZTacZY62XIdyeRTHSJGqtXRGmoyeuwRe8vvYyUGFsr5vA0-t_R24/s1024/3AE10D12-544B-43DC-934E-44B25BCF5DCB.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="632" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOBBTsDMuiDXI9aoTNlti4MJCAAjpgpIsC_AqCSXqaA7R4bpi8Nrbaw42slU8z505D4NYGOfkOJeZjdTHz88qPxC9Z_WeW0dUYKN4B_g5FxdXSJqr1qCaTySukRZL6UN_g9xkSZTacZY62XIdyeRTHSJGqtXRGmoyeuwRe8vvYyUGFsr5vA0-t_R24/s320/3AE10D12-544B-43DC-934E-44B25BCF5DCB.jpeg" width="198" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8u70gcrQk3IaiP1ZSZiQM1b56Jhxr_CarCDysGsErjSoNdMT1gdyQpRpldthsOUtdnpNBIoxGMpUpoMR-PWx98uDNF2QWNSoL7TJ0BFjsYrmeg4crzjX75OpKZgQiTdndNiw487Oyjp2E5kzcraCEEJQAerdKWgr3IzZLoA9y4yObos8cHe53piXz/s1031/09E1FBD0-88ED-4C5E-95AA-B29632E6482F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1031" data-original-width="656" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8u70gcrQk3IaiP1ZSZiQM1b56Jhxr_CarCDysGsErjSoNdMT1gdyQpRpldthsOUtdnpNBIoxGMpUpoMR-PWx98uDNF2QWNSoL7TJ0BFjsYrmeg4crzjX75OpKZgQiTdndNiw487Oyjp2E5kzcraCEEJQAerdKWgr3IzZLoA9y4yObos8cHe53piXz/s320/09E1FBD0-88ED-4C5E-95AA-B29632E6482F.jpeg" width="204" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbU9K-9jt2UmIdb8mtpYhtbSuyDOd0fj-P7OAdgMXWinxgvPaDANaQz7NsIzUs4QxTJHsmsPgIu4hEz0kLVyZntt8E_R8krc031NWBc77vSxBzHGgyPuWB_78tgicNCDg9w_SM9_xj5rjh_f9wVqfvMwe6ZPHWsJNKR9V9F5Vimv3MVq7AGcHA-ew8/s483/DB2E2953-D338-41EC-B5A2-EA6898118441.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="414" data-original-width="483" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbU9K-9jt2UmIdb8mtpYhtbSuyDOd0fj-P7OAdgMXWinxgvPaDANaQz7NsIzUs4QxTJHsmsPgIu4hEz0kLVyZntt8E_R8krc031NWBc77vSxBzHGgyPuWB_78tgicNCDg9w_SM9_xj5rjh_f9wVqfvMwe6ZPHWsJNKR9V9F5Vimv3MVq7AGcHA-ew8/s320/DB2E2953-D338-41EC-B5A2-EA6898118441.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYue4vaSeRztX3MwOoNq41mDV2zc5es7gsf1aZbx2Hg5wwJQD-T5mJQU0La2CvKU7sOeVT5-6HFhgccPxBJDKbhizzG9rEzL9mQyy_06yhSwwBIlQQfEz-mYB7uk0PjI6MPh6ZYhJQAwCIVBJV1cXyUpQ7RH7XMiTbDJ4QgChh4LHgdvFP-U7Lcu_b/s402/FA6F7690-0002-426B-9561-014C0F3E1ED0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="401" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYue4vaSeRztX3MwOoNq41mDV2zc5es7gsf1aZbx2Hg5wwJQD-T5mJQU0La2CvKU7sOeVT5-6HFhgccPxBJDKbhizzG9rEzL9mQyy_06yhSwwBIlQQfEz-mYB7uk0PjI6MPh6ZYhJQAwCIVBJV1cXyUpQ7RH7XMiTbDJ4QgChh4LHgdvFP-U7Lcu_b/s320/FA6F7690-0002-426B-9561-014C0F3E1ED0.jpeg" width="319" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpXZFC5E0QKJIlnpbZQcqHVBPmgy-BSMtnocMtncHG1EA4JsMnW-lzC_yGChuuxYgvVltd8f6Te0RaPmI3_SORdAV7QDDcjXg4Rp3PjePKSTQJscNeEus0cYFPtjuDQ6wkP8DVBIhp3SqZ2oFpCIz-MG9YYi5pTSCaN3fL1bgamsLdIat-b8GbylAh/s800/92AE805C-49F3-4ED4-9BDE-37638D915B52.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="793" data-original-width="800" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpXZFC5E0QKJIlnpbZQcqHVBPmgy-BSMtnocMtncHG1EA4JsMnW-lzC_yGChuuxYgvVltd8f6Te0RaPmI3_SORdAV7QDDcjXg4Rp3PjePKSTQJscNeEus0cYFPtjuDQ6wkP8DVBIhp3SqZ2oFpCIz-MG9YYi5pTSCaN3fL1bgamsLdIat-b8GbylAh/s320/92AE805C-49F3-4ED4-9BDE-37638D915B52.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">This style is fairly popular with reenactors and there are several suggested patterns for its construction. I'm not sure that I'm totally convinced by any of them, but I decided to try a couple and compare the results...just to see if they sparked any ideas.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The first is basically a large trapezoid.</div><div style="text-align: left;">(Which didn't quite fit on my cutting board, but the bottom edge is straight across).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-6vqyAkRUgFwzqX-rIjKlHrqZQOlZQo818eNKLiNat86N6amkwGA_0WbmmDgRVKQVLfIZQEgCGcOV9qwtSHdnqHdffOvgnKyFJcTjCHBLPmvMQLaQ3yq5cpTEez2sIkD3GmOZdvxCDx4lyXPftFaLWQr4lQjlk8eQWD07UW_ueSDq5niLh1iReMOw/s3813/8892318C-BD90-4603-90A9-42E0826240D0.jpeg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2629" data-original-width="3813" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-6vqyAkRUgFwzqX-rIjKlHrqZQOlZQo818eNKLiNat86N6amkwGA_0WbmmDgRVKQVLfIZQEgCGcOV9qwtSHdnqHdffOvgnKyFJcTjCHBLPmvMQLaQ3yq5cpTEez2sIkD3GmOZdvxCDx4lyXPftFaLWQr4lQjlk8eQWD07UW_ueSDq5niLh1iReMOw/w400-h276/8892318C-BD90-4603-90A9-42E0826240D0.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK2tIekgJN_O-r3Q089AZmLCQLoJyNdhVsP8nNH_zpkTzC6iQrRcw5teQux63rEoWncKzeNCTCf_gaFpyAVSwrTGPBIqok_85FM5kDzMwtBvYlJlvmQOGv9Umw6Zb-fvI1gBeA-qmAH_vBNqsArpEw92i__RYpyNf3bfWDqQ-rUA7JBDe_nARlFH6T/s5247/Trap-pattern%20copy1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2546" data-original-width="5247" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK2tIekgJN_O-r3Q089AZmLCQLoJyNdhVsP8nNH_zpkTzC6iQrRcw5teQux63rEoWncKzeNCTCf_gaFpyAVSwrTGPBIqok_85FM5kDzMwtBvYlJlvmQOGv9Umw6Zb-fvI1gBeA-qmAH_vBNqsArpEw92i__RYpyNf3bfWDqQ-rUA7JBDe_nARlFH6T/w400-h194/Trap-pattern%20copy1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">It's a single layer of fine 2.8oz linen. The on-grain edges are turned with a narrow folded hem. The bias edges have a rolled hem.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The narrow side frames the face and the longer points are twisted and tied around the head.</div><div style="text-align: left;">The front is also lightly starched (about 4-6" along the narrow edge).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJhlQAf2IYcVoWfU0XFumn4r6vNIConHXOblFdtNwjdCUXgYXWu2LdpHxm0uqgxCMREQ1uCwbQeN9fbzSiQlTQCimXp5TybDDMZL-oEtm7db4IqTowf-6nDYnQG1-uNXYE7Zs6KM7hUDL7YHNzrWn6xPIPTVNk75GzvVZU2fT30S3fbFX8Lurh_GK/s2684/Cap_14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJhlQAf2IYcVoWfU0XFumn4r6vNIConHXOblFdtNwjdCUXgYXWu2LdpHxm0uqgxCMREQ1uCwbQeN9fbzSiQlTQCimXp5TybDDMZL-oEtm7db4IqTowf-6nDYnQG1-uNXYE7Zs6KM7hUDL7YHNzrWn6xPIPTVNk75GzvVZU2fT30S3fbFX8Lurh_GK/s320/Cap_14.jpg" width="256" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQxBhXXG-Azk-gEvsX2U-n2rcBMKnJUQ4Hm0BO2j8Vrss5e0-Hp7xk4NIUMvFfFmyZy6A9IwHC56k0NKRXOMt6fMmllu6rrPmD-cPUDOLNS12X4DmjgtmDoVwHV-8mdb6wutp0MEjpfji5xAyvMLWHYqY1MEPfwbZIbtLf09c18n5LYAG4v8NDXiXx/s2684/Cap_16.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQxBhXXG-Azk-gEvsX2U-n2rcBMKnJUQ4Hm0BO2j8Vrss5e0-Hp7xk4NIUMvFfFmyZy6A9IwHC56k0NKRXOMt6fMmllu6rrPmD-cPUDOLNS12X4DmjgtmDoVwHV-8mdb6wutp0MEjpfji5xAyvMLWHYqY1MEPfwbZIbtLf09c18n5LYAG4v8NDXiXx/s320/Cap_16.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnYlO2oWU9YTwB0xhZKh0XjMg3LKXOxlVHUxEfybBSMoSBsIxVjkjJINDFDMmXNU4bG4ejl7GPJfE6i_pk1EcHXOn9omKywldUnQfM3dytGJwILmX1z-jlpkR3tHJ1JBmaP8RvoE0i-juv02I7oLJva-1Qz4tW2WU3vKg2yXIJQGejeTRc17xNQqpr/s2684/Cap_15.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnYlO2oWU9YTwB0xhZKh0XjMg3LKXOxlVHUxEfybBSMoSBsIxVjkjJINDFDMmXNU4bG4ejl7GPJfE6i_pk1EcHXOn9omKywldUnQfM3dytGJwILmX1z-jlpkR3tHJ1JBmaP8RvoE0i-juv02I7oLJva-1Qz4tW2WU3vKg2yXIJQGejeTRc17xNQqpr/s320/Cap_15.jpg" width="256" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPf9n3xf4-BXl3yNwl71tdC8Xna8TlG7lGfLW_PhsFKyt2AsAr4wFpJgpg3jnzSHI26Z-76ANxxF_VZCiS0fwyfe7HCiakFROe6d4-0VtTl3shrYtyFFHJE0gfrfesKCsj4VyYRsLef5oQfljeTEE1-JmDOTJVd2-jnXeZTH5RwXAn4iaFiWinHvBS/s2684/Cap_17.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPf9n3xf4-BXl3yNwl71tdC8Xna8TlG7lGfLW_PhsFKyt2AsAr4wFpJgpg3jnzSHI26Z-76ANxxF_VZCiS0fwyfe7HCiakFROe6d4-0VtTl3shrYtyFFHJE0gfrfesKCsj4VyYRsLef5oQfljeTEE1-JmDOTJVd2-jnXeZTH5RwXAn4iaFiWinHvBS/s320/Cap_17.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The result is fun, but the angle around the face doesn't quite match the period images (and in fact seems to fall in the opposite direction)</div><div style="text-align: left;">But it's an attractive shape and can be worn in multiple different ways.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPp8Ty136rJEpLbEzsRCXbnwPn5DW1KksDuo-AkhRo4pH_dWr9ivmmrKzhyShxQb8GCY61ZGudzKrOmZv049rmD18BGpI9BFJYROA23lVZrl4VSCOAW-9kKwBIZj0sfb8kiOr_asPFdTagabCWcjuU1laD10oNK3jWnVEsUKoF1y17p65OZHQny_3v/s2684/Cap_02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPp8Ty136rJEpLbEzsRCXbnwPn5DW1KksDuo-AkhRo4pH_dWr9ivmmrKzhyShxQb8GCY61ZGudzKrOmZv049rmD18BGpI9BFJYROA23lVZrl4VSCOAW-9kKwBIZj0sfb8kiOr_asPFdTagabCWcjuU1laD10oNK3jWnVEsUKoF1y17p65OZHQny_3v/s320/Cap_02.jpg" width="256" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhES2byhArhiAuIMrdEe5f0NrixA3L4-Gj_mphvfx49ov-Wg3ycOSiXmTvlm0tDi-9OjBuUBadYBge8Zjq-KNsLPQuEJ_fNG1uIcWuEmC82pYA7XDnM24F2DsZSzHS4_T8CeWZmX8Qy6_WuK3-IVxHMzGnvyh7aeJX0ozG4L0MfkTUGxziCdTT7w-lq/s2684/Cap_06.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhES2byhArhiAuIMrdEe5f0NrixA3L4-Gj_mphvfx49ov-Wg3ycOSiXmTvlm0tDi-9OjBuUBadYBge8Zjq-KNsLPQuEJ_fNG1uIcWuEmC82pYA7XDnM24F2DsZSzHS4_T8CeWZmX8Qy6_WuK3-IVxHMzGnvyh7aeJX0ozG4L0MfkTUGxziCdTT7w-lq/s320/Cap_06.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdZytDDC-noicW_8h7wxMPeYwFMyutE9xIsYXzMWl43WxaG6G5wJf4Dj2fwqZfP-w66JiB-Dy69me-1aa-2LTipISc3lR90pZZJ5THtmc49glletRA_-JQM2UI3PrsyJ7AxSTkgV2ychCyg4XH17SYI6XJL5mdh-SgPOIt6l8Lde9xs82KdDQoG50/s2684/Cap_07.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdZytDDC-noicW_8h7wxMPeYwFMyutE9xIsYXzMWl43WxaG6G5wJf4Dj2fwqZfP-w66JiB-Dy69me-1aa-2LTipISc3lR90pZZJ5THtmc49glletRA_-JQM2UI3PrsyJ7AxSTkgV2ychCyg4XH17SYI6XJL5mdh-SgPOIt6l8Lde9xs82KdDQoG50/s320/Cap_07.jpg" width="256" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwHFvQ7ZacQEGh55GN2tMzWTncqGoorcRa18AK_Vv4C3PITwnVP_egZcs649iq5Z-BTqz3UFDvRaxQKRGhuQSCUldIcWhJF8Xq2DrrUJUU0u5BQP2wds9u6pUAULRvLuoSFjLLmAhTR5fJ1FGMYMlW998X6dUuAx6bI48uYQ0gsYgjgw9GsFZyBZP/s2684/Cap_05.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwHFvQ7ZacQEGh55GN2tMzWTncqGoorcRa18AK_Vv4C3PITwnVP_egZcs649iq5Z-BTqz3UFDvRaxQKRGhuQSCUldIcWhJF8Xq2DrrUJUU0u5BQP2wds9u6pUAULRvLuoSFjLLmAhTR5fJ1FGMYMlW998X6dUuAx6bI48uYQ0gsYgjgw9GsFZyBZP/s320/Cap_05.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Next is a long rectangle with a large 'V' cut out of one end.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGqAepre78Qs0r6gFx9ibyro2BY_UrSX60Ia3dHtIyU3P1H8JM_GZ-yI_RK5rgs7G_MMVbonKBnAhE7Z1rD0VGkDzEW0srZXjav49x74XIKfSOL4gtuGxLohXZClwSFOLEsYijwvRN4x6iF1YGjy9EEnJvEuVUSwEe5Z2X2Hge0ppNWIf3-Ou5LLwX/s3304/CF0B9A28-5795-4F45-A6A1-A3784CB4AE57.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2618" data-original-width="3304" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGqAepre78Qs0r6gFx9ibyro2BY_UrSX60Ia3dHtIyU3P1H8JM_GZ-yI_RK5rgs7G_MMVbonKBnAhE7Z1rD0VGkDzEW0srZXjav49x74XIKfSOL4gtuGxLohXZClwSFOLEsYijwvRN4x6iF1YGjy9EEnJvEuVUSwEe5Z2X2Hge0ppNWIf3-Ou5LLwX/w400-h318/CF0B9A28-5795-4F45-A6A1-A3784CB4AE57.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTJZpsG6gyEzj1rExN6v30bmFX8EX2Z-kfKht8MQ5eoEPPEkMor9_bfTV0twcIQoo3Gl_9dR6xblWV9_tGEA0WVcGJ62AajZ2iNwzXkTHwWL5axHsZJuQW4XAdYxcvKKJ9yotFb8Jg2s2knuDFFyFps9cwRZADygQ7eKNYbmGfs6rRFS9JyGmASrYv/s3304/V-pattern%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2618" data-original-width="3304" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTJZpsG6gyEzj1rExN6v30bmFX8EX2Z-kfKht8MQ5eoEPPEkMor9_bfTV0twcIQoo3Gl_9dR6xblWV9_tGEA0WVcGJ62AajZ2iNwzXkTHwWL5axHsZJuQW4XAdYxcvKKJ9yotFb8Jg2s2knuDFFyFps9cwRZADygQ7eKNYbmGfs6rRFS9JyGmASrYv/w400-h318/V-pattern%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Again, the tails are twisted and tied on top of the head.</div><div style="text-align: left;">The front section is also starched (a bit more heavily this time) as well as being folded down the middle. This helps create the heart shape that frames the face.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmQ44ZV5Hl7LL4HVi0M-b5fynqKznjFFOrfzysOPUYzgwyGstxjn-s3bGSwIKIZz52g6O5pOYDntAGglucDOnIgZodasmMON3bBTC4GW1RNVQW6UsrDXzQNvX4ZKJIfxX2TQB-qVZVAAibz21oFQPcPgSv7nVJKPDh-l-ZrNbXA3Zds1lrz4GPe308/s2684/Cap_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmQ44ZV5Hl7LL4HVi0M-b5fynqKznjFFOrfzysOPUYzgwyGstxjn-s3bGSwIKIZz52g6O5pOYDntAGglucDOnIgZodasmMON3bBTC4GW1RNVQW6UsrDXzQNvX4ZKJIfxX2TQB-qVZVAAibz21oFQPcPgSv7nVJKPDh-l-ZrNbXA3Zds1lrz4GPe308/s320/Cap_03.jpg" width="256" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXrc6O-Rx5WpWql21zYGU0JrEsKinwvGwZ9Lpyl-yfhNid7BWiZWioQzwq60oDLWVv1iJ_l0maA-3Byz5wztABkWDn1TgyLoSqm7h3oJeelKgrE_4GyTk-S7CHV6xBslHo46ghfWI4YFmLP8e1QspcLBAClCGLHGyx7113kSQa5ZkEQ4fnFuIZPps4/s2684/Cap_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXrc6O-Rx5WpWql21zYGU0JrEsKinwvGwZ9Lpyl-yfhNid7BWiZWioQzwq60oDLWVv1iJ_l0maA-3Byz5wztABkWDn1TgyLoSqm7h3oJeelKgrE_4GyTk-S7CHV6xBslHo46ghfWI4YFmLP8e1QspcLBAClCGLHGyx7113kSQa5ZkEQ4fnFuIZPps4/s320/Cap_01.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">It still doesn't quite mach the mid 15th c. silhouette above, but it is a closer match for the later 16th c. styles (and so more in the ballpark for what I'm ultimately aiming for).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHWeXPGWPcAzt5578pnKNnMJ_mbFMtKIlbxTVD9njQxLaJ2O_fShayx8nSYq25QGwhxVPXSFBjFVHv52u7gpIFvYEKELVv84FexRRCMw84joe0IcXnuT6XA66RVcohvGu6cstBJW-BY09aKUl-z1Bm-Fpi5TY56V3luB68DsDQRL7m3DzJERTfBpjO/s650/65FC2E6A-5FAF-4651-BE07-508B77187843.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="473" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHWeXPGWPcAzt5578pnKNnMJ_mbFMtKIlbxTVD9njQxLaJ2O_fShayx8nSYq25QGwhxVPXSFBjFVHv52u7gpIFvYEKELVv84FexRRCMw84joe0IcXnuT6XA66RVcohvGu6cstBJW-BY09aKUl-z1Bm-Fpi5TY56V3luB68DsDQRL7m3DzJERTfBpjO/s320/65FC2E6A-5FAF-4651-BE07-508B77187843.jpeg" width="233" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">This can also be pinned to the under coif to create different silhouettes.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPn0Tmg9WNcLI1pGX2YWaB8dAV0sjMdAJoA3QA18W7lzP8Snpac2tXVWTfI5qnfWspd4wqKtUGTZsBbuyvKtRnzpyOPumuqwDGLS41VVGjSfy_zbcHxcOtbgZkyb6vYP5-3oXcjh_c3Npnqdef0rNQastNxbPPMdnD0Z3rySYHKDhgxlSpKNaNUxu/s2684/Cap_09.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPn0Tmg9WNcLI1pGX2YWaB8dAV0sjMdAJoA3QA18W7lzP8Snpac2tXVWTfI5qnfWspd4wqKtUGTZsBbuyvKtRnzpyOPumuqwDGLS41VVGjSfy_zbcHxcOtbgZkyb6vYP5-3oXcjh_c3Npnqdef0rNQastNxbPPMdnD0Z3rySYHKDhgxlSpKNaNUxu/s320/Cap_09.jpg" width="256" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYOmhIklbP9rRiYWY7gYzpczWuxmc9zbNlbIMv0j-8gdV8TFb6tDHLHkkjp2pt5hjTYhWA0T8AwNalYLCKZUvPG4KOMN-h0NjshR87q0mtQRTeyOkjXvBrNVyl48B914PsvrRRvTPdpiTrme1MwH9WUuCf1j1Rz6eBS0y-9a6mnCCWKmf_WfgBPs5/s2684/Cap_11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYOmhIklbP9rRiYWY7gYzpczWuxmc9zbNlbIMv0j-8gdV8TFb6tDHLHkkjp2pt5hjTYhWA0T8AwNalYLCKZUvPG4KOMN-h0NjshR87q0mtQRTeyOkjXvBrNVyl48B914PsvrRRvTPdpiTrme1MwH9WUuCf1j1Rz6eBS0y-9a6mnCCWKmf_WfgBPs5/s320/Cap_11.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And of course it can also we worn down as a long, split-tailed veil.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBblsh1_8z2PmlHkbzCxLl7J8tvWm2CL7o1RcbLUwXk8m5saojTQ443XRcuAMkw1IeXNVhYraY27kWY7dbIf5vbnQ-4j75idtuWukme_upZARj7Zf-GH27s5fZieofbzdsqpQi6KHNNjCZxmul0dXK-K8VysD4TOHHw16on8MPsincRQrd45Vve11w/s600/BEA1FF43-4D04-484C-B53D-07EF21FC4D11.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="461" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBblsh1_8z2PmlHkbzCxLl7J8tvWm2CL7o1RcbLUwXk8m5saojTQ443XRcuAMkw1IeXNVhYraY27kWY7dbIf5vbnQ-4j75idtuWukme_upZARj7Zf-GH27s5fZieofbzdsqpQi6KHNNjCZxmul0dXK-K8VysD4TOHHw16on8MPsincRQrd45Vve11w/s320/BEA1FF43-4D04-484C-B53D-07EF21FC4D11.jpeg" width="246" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL0o9J_LvRZHHgdOYc4I_UK5PE12LJYal_3sKT54qUJc4kPMb3lVdV6z67ykqS3KnyJFrm8SHiFo9JA3yXzMng7us2m7D0aeLJv0DIvHCVvC5VSF2HnHLQPLrul-esbogjQftgnyLhhWCnjU3yRI-jbRWqKRq8XL6QTc_LG3S22HhH4UFwUe6_mt5Z/s589/EBCECCB6-626D-4951-B7CD-83E95E1E921C.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="446" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL0o9J_LvRZHHgdOYc4I_UK5PE12LJYal_3sKT54qUJc4kPMb3lVdV6z67ykqS3KnyJFrm8SHiFo9JA3yXzMng7us2m7D0aeLJv0DIvHCVvC5VSF2HnHLQPLrul-esbogjQftgnyLhhWCnjU3yRI-jbRWqKRq8XL6QTc_LG3S22HhH4UFwUe6_mt5Z/s320/EBCECCB6-626D-4951-B7CD-83E95E1E921C.jpeg" width="242" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjjHMKdpwihc7xTcPyKvt5TgM7RiGllhyX-qxaYC6U13DJillbTwD6mX3wkefYipo-1thgdxKk1J1K1eDRdMTSCOHV2J31yL_1LHovrQ83pBYfqd-2LbFZ_2akH3RukKn0i9ATY5G3F2-iZuAPLuufvMY6y8IjTAFC6Zj8GNJawcy1Ly5g9OQvzuPW/s2684/Cap_29.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjjHMKdpwihc7xTcPyKvt5TgM7RiGllhyX-qxaYC6U13DJillbTwD6mX3wkefYipo-1thgdxKk1J1K1eDRdMTSCOHV2J31yL_1LHovrQ83pBYfqd-2LbFZ_2akH3RukKn0i9ATY5G3F2-iZuAPLuufvMY6y8IjTAFC6Zj8GNJawcy1Ly5g9OQvzuPW/s320/Cap_29.jpg" width="256" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4-G8mk97B3l6Qi5Ee1RCf57IkNlbqe-Ep7wsmMQzpfTfsGYBW0-CyOaG7sYdz1noARFeCbC-Q8Oe3oKJEYvcAKLSgrtWJ0tCYngeEu5JbsepKnb2wiUyYfbAquBzklgd7bxMDvlH2KkYXSYrR5NugILBHAIvN16CwOneOa3X7DwrauGGTSbEMCsh/s2684/Cap_30.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4-G8mk97B3l6Qi5Ee1RCf57IkNlbqe-Ep7wsmMQzpfTfsGYBW0-CyOaG7sYdz1noARFeCbC-Q8Oe3oKJEYvcAKLSgrtWJ0tCYngeEu5JbsepKnb2wiUyYfbAquBzklgd7bxMDvlH2KkYXSYrR5NugILBHAIvN16CwOneOa3X7DwrauGGTSbEMCsh/s320/Cap_30.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">While both patterns (and all the variants) are super fun to wear I'm still not <i>100%</i> convinced by either version, if only for the inefficient use of fabric (and resulting wastage).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So I'm back to square one. </div><div style="text-align: left;">Really, I'm in a position where I'm fairly certain that anything I do will be wrong (historically) so now it's just a matter of picking something that works aesthetically and/or theatrically.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So I start thinking about abandoning the veil and making a coif. </div><div style="text-align: left;">Conveniently, this is also when I discover this image:</div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvY3pywqtJYmNf8r4qvKzaoR9Cq4AkpIvPT9EYJyDUUOhm_EbJwVESj21DeDUxyYol8e0oyBoQMvfGpCkopqaJFucQDxGBt3NqCRM0jhCJKs_9PZbU4uA6DByP69Q-Glsr6H9UoGpyE6YA25rtUKWQpFSJ8ifgHi2sTk-7P2Q0tgx3OBWja6_KsOMP/s1688/D5E3128C-BAAF-42EA-8A40-6B52F16B072E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1688" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvY3pywqtJYmNf8r4qvKzaoR9Cq4AkpIvPT9EYJyDUUOhm_EbJwVESj21DeDUxyYol8e0oyBoQMvfGpCkopqaJFucQDxGBt3NqCRM0jhCJKs_9PZbU4uA6DByP69Q-Glsr6H9UoGpyE6YA25rtUKWQpFSJ8ifgHi2sTk-7P2Q0tgx3OBWja6_KsOMP/s320/D5E3128C-BAAF-42EA-8A40-6B52F16B072E.jpeg" width="227" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUA3nHTwEMxrrgcj4-I4COjGL7DxHKRQrvpiC94FF9WA_j3nhft5nK_YWgWHK9A1JpW8mXrktMmMaSxFh_svo4zNDMlmNXA9wNX28Y5ICP80tRu02bu0nTF6QG0XNaYWBywFAbgLoKKpAVbgqyt9fzBf1ae3SjeXJ3uQYOBc28h_iyNyue286LPdW1/s1278/C4AF7BA3-044F-4BCC-8F15-103861940CF6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1176" data-original-width="1278" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUA3nHTwEMxrrgcj4-I4COjGL7DxHKRQrvpiC94FF9WA_j3nhft5nK_YWgWHK9A1JpW8mXrktMmMaSxFh_svo4zNDMlmNXA9wNX28Y5ICP80tRu02bu0nTF6QG0XNaYWBywFAbgLoKKpAVbgqyt9fzBf1ae3SjeXJ3uQYOBc28h_iyNyue286LPdW1/s320/C4AF7BA3-044F-4BCC-8F15-103861940CF6.jpeg" width="320" /></a></p><p>Motivated reasoning aside, the image <i>does</i> seem to suggest gathers at the nape of the neck and the tails coming off the front brim (rather than from behind).</p><p>It's not a total leap. There are early 17th c. coifs that feature long tails, though they don't particularly lend themselves to be twisted in this style.</p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOiX35PXOZT7CITNdnwGETe_QPFuYpJ-lsFsdc2OB_ViSwTeNUeTxzrsKSXV4o-btoghHVXaNIdMQ3UoBRxU86VC_TjAWHe_arfUD50ZzX_6ADSmNHH7y6Bg_6OlVPlKV_7iyEijWW6Nn1WI0ppBaxhqFhrTL2rUKYMwIHZLyqm8IkBtpT7o1hY40U/s600/A3449CC1-4A6B-4291-9145-D77CC60890EF.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="302" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOiX35PXOZT7CITNdnwGETe_QPFuYpJ-lsFsdc2OB_ViSwTeNUeTxzrsKSXV4o-btoghHVXaNIdMQ3UoBRxU86VC_TjAWHe_arfUD50ZzX_6ADSmNHH7y6Bg_6OlVPlKV_7iyEijWW6Nn1WI0ppBaxhqFhrTL2rUKYMwIHZLyqm8IkBtpT7o1hY40U/s320/A3449CC1-4A6B-4291-9145-D77CC60890EF.jpeg" width="161" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB3rfSfYd9RtXbLo31dSN636QTn6fliUptZ5Bl3PjEoMlkP-EZCF63PvBVmSwjk1jxe8FHM-R7NSRHurTxIhnLd-4JIslGNhNeDM2X-15m7dNwzQj1PBa2HNpdXTkS1wsIHXG-Anb3tROoUCkSZKv1XcTvCHsMoPGmsApy_LzGJQt_ihzlva3FXCMh/s600/EFCDA8B4-94C6-4DD7-B41E-BB935F24FEB5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="311" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB3rfSfYd9RtXbLo31dSN636QTn6fliUptZ5Bl3PjEoMlkP-EZCF63PvBVmSwjk1jxe8FHM-R7NSRHurTxIhnLd-4JIslGNhNeDM2X-15m7dNwzQj1PBa2HNpdXTkS1wsIHXG-Anb3tROoUCkSZKv1XcTvCHsMoPGmsApy_LzGJQt_ihzlva3FXCMh/s320/EFCDA8B4-94C6-4DD7-B41E-BB935F24FEB5.jpeg" width="166" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDyIVyJmxA04p9DfW2KGbkpg0V7NsR4d4pg2aJPlVdaIhC1EfGUKlHp6g5IW7saWF1T6Y6ZetPNZs8ZwkM3A3XTkKnVYcTJNC_xoYu7wzobtKGLzS6mWAy-kM2fST0ZhZq93tQftabaWtG52oP1ligLNY8lI5rCiO2Dn-ObbjX8jrfuSrqlK9CPgz/s427/376F476E-2351-4014-9258-35255B216249.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="427" data-original-width="283" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDyIVyJmxA04p9DfW2KGbkpg0V7NsR4d4pg2aJPlVdaIhC1EfGUKlHp6g5IW7saWF1T6Y6ZetPNZs8ZwkM3A3XTkKnVYcTJNC_xoYu7wzobtKGLzS6mWAy-kM2fST0ZhZq93tQftabaWtG52oP1ligLNY8lI5rCiO2Dn-ObbjX8jrfuSrqlK9CPgz/s320/376F476E-2351-4014-9258-35255B216249.jpeg" width="212" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhedFeVbhBajQG9aScEQuPKkvEMMGqiD7Sn2WqcTffRGyWrWecZ6fgarOaltnFVTUJMty5MhSkMLogbFmkd57z6nruj1_jPCVKshomV6N1ytmdZL5BBweU-_rnV8AnRmwI1gKaxb3JNHur-MmHIwsTRJ9LvnBN_JVurDs0vSTuLlA1hlXf0y9IEP90l/s328/8B3E2698-E41D-4F6A-BFF2-2A33D542A652.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="328" data-original-width="240" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhedFeVbhBajQG9aScEQuPKkvEMMGqiD7Sn2WqcTffRGyWrWecZ6fgarOaltnFVTUJMty5MhSkMLogbFmkd57z6nruj1_jPCVKshomV6N1ytmdZL5BBweU-_rnV8AnRmwI1gKaxb3JNHur-MmHIwsTRJ9LvnBN_JVurDs0vSTuLlA1hlXf0y9IEP90l/s320/8B3E2698-E41D-4F6A-BFF2-2A33D542A652.jpeg" width="234" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Still, perhaps it's not totally unreasonable to think there may be a hybrid style, especially when looking at the late 16th to early 17th c. images that seem to indicate gathers around the side of the face...which might suggest something other than a folded veil.<div>(Hello again, <i>motivated reasoning</i>! I missed you! Come, pull up a chair. Stay a while...)<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLCGpxkbhv1lco97qwxquKS8_g8IorYVjHMP7ayI-LD_IhXIvyhg31Y4AorwtniiW803toPDCr7QUkORNFDSkHuUDc2sAS7ZyZyf7FFIHJnKavJpc9tOBvNkYUSHQTMxgfRccT7IZ3S1ZcanRw34faGs7cYA7pxYM5Ou7-OGaZwUC8OuQTMl7VliTd/s650/9C9CB8F4-DB6D-4193-9F5D-BD0DD15660E0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="517" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLCGpxkbhv1lco97qwxquKS8_g8IorYVjHMP7ayI-LD_IhXIvyhg31Y4AorwtniiW803toPDCr7QUkORNFDSkHuUDc2sAS7ZyZyf7FFIHJnKavJpc9tOBvNkYUSHQTMxgfRccT7IZ3S1ZcanRw34faGs7cYA7pxYM5Ou7-OGaZwUC8OuQTMl7VliTd/s320/9C9CB8F4-DB6D-4193-9F5D-BD0DD15660E0.jpeg" width="255" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>So with that in mind I decided to adapt the late 16th/early 17th c. coif pattern I've made up previously.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiINbM5WT0t7NGWp54E36dgD3zwmYcIs0sbbQWG9VTZkrdf9wtw0QsBQ9x3ZJZ8x44tdPnjxvi_fSUasxDNzSMyDHt2mtlAX9t083kVbuC5oh1f-ike5LtsDJsQifH7fdJZMXkc36TDerdr2DLnCVr-IrknJrkqoLHYhHFqoGXA6T-_rh2HTJsGpeoP/s2048/IMG_3953a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1807" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiINbM5WT0t7NGWp54E36dgD3zwmYcIs0sbbQWG9VTZkrdf9wtw0QsBQ9x3ZJZ8x44tdPnjxvi_fSUasxDNzSMyDHt2mtlAX9t083kVbuC5oh1f-ike5LtsDJsQifH7fdJZMXkc36TDerdr2DLnCVr-IrknJrkqoLHYhHFqoGXA6T-_rh2HTJsGpeoP/s320/IMG_3953a.jpg" width="282" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPJBL8T95-JuPJ1Lpov7r4EIwsg21VFsGUlpQsb83pTIqL4bitJFS6BF9r-OMdoV3NXhpwcf_TkfzpCd4phI3axcRAnC_iGiKCv02ciLe0_C3ZVMmcChSOu88YNOvCBAQNpGOefU6ocYbZcoV1CTmL5Ig4KutEj4qCNwQ03jzfELSYIoda_XZMt1FU/s2048/IMG_3954a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1816" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPJBL8T95-JuPJ1Lpov7r4EIwsg21VFsGUlpQsb83pTIqL4bitJFS6BF9r-OMdoV3NXhpwcf_TkfzpCd4phI3axcRAnC_iGiKCv02ciLe0_C3ZVMmcChSOu88YNOvCBAQNpGOefU6ocYbZcoV1CTmL5Ig4KutEj4qCNwQ03jzfELSYIoda_XZMt1FU/s320/IMG_3954a.jpg" width="284" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnpA9MAssJHrUwD7zVe4jPbJK-t1JsPOmOfPRovJBiOZXMggbkQOwSC2AM82ClNXu2pNpDYn2eZBGF5IkLhUPnGTFU-afXYnSuFb8mAw9MXV4shwBVr5F8Fswg4Nf30OoEaJF4G3PCaH4EpGX3H7888Pc6t2zRo6IEBDHcrUzTHGPapDNZoWv8JCct/s2048/IMG_3938a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1451" data-original-width="2048" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnpA9MAssJHrUwD7zVe4jPbJK-t1JsPOmOfPRovJBiOZXMggbkQOwSC2AM82ClNXu2pNpDYn2eZBGF5IkLhUPnGTFU-afXYnSuFb8mAw9MXV4shwBVr5F8Fswg4Nf30OoEaJF4G3PCaH4EpGX3H7888Pc6t2zRo6IEBDHcrUzTHGPapDNZoWv8JCct/w400-h284/IMG_3938a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>My plan was keep the most of the current shape, but then extend the front side sections into tapering tails.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic_wtpJ2sYM1MW3EPCIqpdLQ7ljbcct7ot5m3mrqACQ5ezZrLFpvluZupG_ljJituqnegsUzeBCC-31fWcP7-ReWeKuld-j6rMo-BMNDssPvisniS6YNa0SI8_gGuKh56V1EllJvqcrwO7tfIKO81gbmW06VV9x6uOFYJzot-Z_ikn_KLLRCPGBnUI/s3990/36A5999B-3143-4F8E-AD9A-145F57A52DD3.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1599" data-original-width="3990" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic_wtpJ2sYM1MW3EPCIqpdLQ7ljbcct7ot5m3mrqACQ5ezZrLFpvluZupG_ljJituqnegsUzeBCC-31fWcP7-ReWeKuld-j6rMo-BMNDssPvisniS6YNa0SI8_gGuKh56V1EllJvqcrwO7tfIKO81gbmW06VV9x6uOFYJzot-Z_ikn_KLLRCPGBnUI/w400-h160/36A5999B-3143-4F8E-AD9A-145F57A52DD3.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivYiLZZ1ENFODzy5X1tTbQB1KzgkBPV1hdiueuFPhbM29Qu8xMW4s887E7zdITE0k_-UzTmkj1OTtIiAEQ9MtP7ecRVK17J0IsK9M2-_HryuC415CnDSJLOIsUCY8E1331gWCAe7EvZvG-WYoTS32IKV8s7tY6gGD7erUPlnhsT5wG0ZvKuw2cj_rZ/s6348/coif-pattern%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2509" data-original-width="6348" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivYiLZZ1ENFODzy5X1tTbQB1KzgkBPV1hdiueuFPhbM29Qu8xMW4s887E7zdITE0k_-UzTmkj1OTtIiAEQ9MtP7ecRVK17J0IsK9M2-_HryuC415CnDSJLOIsUCY8E1331gWCAe7EvZvG-WYoTS32IKV8s7tY6gGD7erUPlnhsT5wG0ZvKuw2cj_rZ/w400-h158/coif-pattern%20copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<i>NOTE</i>: This pattern is given in centimeters, the previous patterns are in inches)</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>The linen pattern is cut in light weight linen. Wherever possible a tread is pulled so that the all edges are cut exactly on the grain (basically everything except the tapered, diagonal edge)</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwfQWpchloalEmy-aO7DN04RPKHxJbAzmVnwfWZhCvyDIT4b1w_-zbcwPxNkWbdX1fgqbmCgf82fQGrvq6LF2XvWIo3eMqulkGWuWWNtJ_QxE57giDNI9T-jJGMUDf0CmcCjs0CcIHf_Sp1UVX-6BNuhtzTNwBMfnzrRsi6u5O2UAK13L2QumsFcDu/s3706/F2668928-E32E-4E13-B1A7-C7B12F8EF2EA.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1980" data-original-width="3706" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwfQWpchloalEmy-aO7DN04RPKHxJbAzmVnwfWZhCvyDIT4b1w_-zbcwPxNkWbdX1fgqbmCgf82fQGrvq6LF2XvWIo3eMqulkGWuWWNtJ_QxE57giDNI9T-jJGMUDf0CmcCjs0CcIHf_Sp1UVX-6BNuhtzTNwBMfnzrRsi6u5O2UAK13L2QumsFcDu/w400-h214/F2668928-E32E-4E13-B1A7-C7B12F8EF2EA.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyoEJsntGL9xLlP85h3WjZmfpFOAJetN5RK3o_yeIurVQnKgTYNsZ4chB6Y7gbY9mU1Gtc0cOnIYpGYd215ibMPe1lSCIH5umyLFYkTnaCrWvAJW_DfNODgWpdW30S815yEzBer5q8AlHkRtTFwPCprVHch1PmyVfEDUBGDWrpnD6uzlS5D8v8R2jF/s1815/53900B1F-CF66-4E24-8BF9-A4C98C124875.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1733" data-original-width="1815" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyoEJsntGL9xLlP85h3WjZmfpFOAJetN5RK3o_yeIurVQnKgTYNsZ4chB6Y7gbY9mU1Gtc0cOnIYpGYd215ibMPe1lSCIH5umyLFYkTnaCrWvAJW_DfNODgWpdW30S815yEzBer5q8AlHkRtTFwPCprVHch1PmyVfEDUBGDWrpnD6uzlS5D8v8R2jF/s320/53900B1F-CF66-4E24-8BF9-A4C98C124875.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>All edges are then finished with a narrow turned hem (except the diagonal egde, for which I found it easier to to do a rolled hem) </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXGRgyoeFZ5rjkzcWRmvvAnmKznu2mu3SuDD7oSQr0YJ0_NpPoo0Ywe2-1hmgm9hEQR9ZOBjj3Efa2tV_iG5kwaRavdPTNLaYgH5ek2ojHpvgcvGfh1gukygqRbOrDF7ZLgmieoS3yo79vh-82ZL9dVvYZATWsmTvC5iUYG6gf7fVqWlFdliulvDHY/s3803/FBF5A107-D46D-42D4-A079-820ECCA039FD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1914" data-original-width="3803" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXGRgyoeFZ5rjkzcWRmvvAnmKznu2mu3SuDD7oSQr0YJ0_NpPoo0Ywe2-1hmgm9hEQR9ZOBjj3Efa2tV_iG5kwaRavdPTNLaYgH5ek2ojHpvgcvGfh1gukygqRbOrDF7ZLgmieoS3yo79vh-82ZL9dVvYZATWsmTvC5iUYG6gf7fVqWlFdliulvDHY/w400-h201/FBF5A107-D46D-42D4-A079-820ECCA039FD.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then back edges are whipstitched together (right sides facing)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUaBWxkjqpEGl1H-CTT2yiRjrEbZVRNjNcgrFIX7C5AGehHE_XePUC-hp5KbQ23DsYM9fg15S3HpmnQowzNBjtmXHfhiP-HtMg_lSdO0SeNmm-PcGKLgmDVm0-cHkbITnD2aQgGFJ3Y5YvshyFjmfTaKV1wYQKFhH8nXmMgDfPWVvHpyOkDntDBERR/s3399/AEDEDE36-AEAD-4828-BDA0-6B7820C97A3F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="3399" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUaBWxkjqpEGl1H-CTT2yiRjrEbZVRNjNcgrFIX7C5AGehHE_XePUC-hp5KbQ23DsYM9fg15S3HpmnQowzNBjtmXHfhiP-HtMg_lSdO0SeNmm-PcGKLgmDVm0-cHkbITnD2aQgGFJ3Y5YvshyFjmfTaKV1wYQKFhH8nXmMgDfPWVvHpyOkDntDBERR/s320/AEDEDE36-AEAD-4828-BDA0-6B7820C97A3F.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>The the bottom. back edge is folded over and stitched down to create a lacing channel.</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNRj2fTFR_R9ryVFVy9hnrUS_tGSkMEJXW5fv9uaFPBmZT3Z13uw1TWT6KnqR_sXr3fid2_A5Lfe25ABrSx8Nzz_8fLlIK3uFknc8JSVJnXzX1ctk4lwpad1lODEagV7xxdbHtDP7ZR5Wzd9piEJ0Yg-flKAqgnizGC_8RCE31-gSctLWHsjyENMbV/s4030/AF2C3862-8ACE-4545-8C33-C013C0C7EA95.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2868" data-original-width="4030" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNRj2fTFR_R9ryVFVy9hnrUS_tGSkMEJXW5fv9uaFPBmZT3Z13uw1TWT6KnqR_sXr3fid2_A5Lfe25ABrSx8Nzz_8fLlIK3uFknc8JSVJnXzX1ctk4lwpad1lODEagV7xxdbHtDP7ZR5Wzd9piEJ0Yg-flKAqgnizGC_8RCE31-gSctLWHsjyENMbV/s320/AF2C3862-8ACE-4545-8C33-C013C0C7EA95.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Next, the "hole" formed by the cutout on the top of the head needs to be closed. The is done by running a series of tiny cartridge pleats along the longer edge and then whipstitching them to the narrow front edge.<span style="text-align: center;"> </span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd33o2ktqP59oSYT8GY7p2ujAYGg8CsRu8OSQqpHzgNrY0WZqEpxxD5UmIz464nuWDWttKP5SYPfr0WqrWRUP1ND0EomWtp3RlAjUyafjm2OJoPLmMfzSC7oZ_wgaYZu-t_LYB-M6DokYigku3byGuIoFzYmcYMjtacM7NZhp9ME5TjEruHCxzomUj/s2006/748C6AD5-CC6D-4540-ABBC-F91D7102DE47.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2006" data-original-width="1568" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd33o2ktqP59oSYT8GY7p2ujAYGg8CsRu8OSQqpHzgNrY0WZqEpxxD5UmIz464nuWDWttKP5SYPfr0WqrWRUP1ND0EomWtp3RlAjUyafjm2OJoPLmMfzSC7oZ_wgaYZu-t_LYB-M6DokYigku3byGuIoFzYmcYMjtacM7NZhp9ME5TjEruHCxzomUj/s320/748C6AD5-CC6D-4540-ABBC-F91D7102DE47.jpeg" width="250" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0aSdMF-Xprv5KNl6Yt8j3lbReNdnKS0ci86l9_hM8lDIURYyHBiQ-lIhlSXrRkfexKTV-qNoFZEd4Nk05JXmx3nWhAQ6Fdij1leJbCYziCK89RM2XKSUg_JmVGuX2Vq20XiiIo_ZOtgGRqZSzhcZT8kBiLzdowScxAzcg6WauwcuZ-RB27VM_ccxv/s1791/E5CA5BFA-DD2D-4635-83A3-EF29DD164271.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1791" data-original-width="1755" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0aSdMF-Xprv5KNl6Yt8j3lbReNdnKS0ci86l9_hM8lDIURYyHBiQ-lIhlSXrRkfexKTV-qNoFZEd4Nk05JXmx3nWhAQ6Fdij1leJbCYziCK89RM2XKSUg_JmVGuX2Vq20XiiIo_ZOtgGRqZSzhcZT8kBiLzdowScxAzcg6WauwcuZ-RB27VM_ccxv/s320/E5CA5BFA-DD2D-4635-83A3-EF29DD164271.jpeg" width="314" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The coif is now complete!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIJODjZswPnHHwS2_HPtInnUzpXT4YYXgQe5C4WqOEtELHoR0F_acCgRNjs-xSrjtbu8TRXnhTLxYdtKuIdkfXnumYK1RjbJXIWB_SBl4QMmeR2E9pFCvkONu2lleWyjn2MPEi-08Zp1qwYabIlCZXigGESzm1I4R1zoYXKs7a4xmWQf6SPVV2TuLV/s2002/B816A4F9-F6B4-437B-A371-ED3E36EA5063.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2002" data-original-width="1571" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIJODjZswPnHHwS2_HPtInnUzpXT4YYXgQe5C4WqOEtELHoR0F_acCgRNjs-xSrjtbu8TRXnhTLxYdtKuIdkfXnumYK1RjbJXIWB_SBl4QMmeR2E9pFCvkONu2lleWyjn2MPEi-08Zp1qwYabIlCZXigGESzm1I4R1zoYXKs7a4xmWQf6SPVV2TuLV/s320/B816A4F9-F6B4-437B-A371-ED3E36EA5063.jpeg" width="251" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now it's time to shape it...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">First, the front section is starched, folded down the middle and pressed to create a heart shape to frame the face.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(The coif is pressed inside out, so that when flipped the top springs outwards from the central fold)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLO1JKMD3NxjpbwFI6zueMAwMod4-5NySJE6ksfszQ4oUa5GU4uVaUmN-7WJ3TDUJ26HrONqXjqnYjjHHFapEmEAPMNCD2cKFDJib2IV5JOTlXep6d9fv1CPEbLBbJoAW_x5_ut4178ur3qAugDOqZqCHOF3vl_R5WRfEUXhP1ALZnkpCnIALmYSOF/s3788/BBFC0495-331C-4F6A-BF03-59F0C05BE648.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3788" data-original-width="2598" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLO1JKMD3NxjpbwFI6zueMAwMod4-5NySJE6ksfszQ4oUa5GU4uVaUmN-7WJ3TDUJ26HrONqXjqnYjjHHFapEmEAPMNCD2cKFDJib2IV5JOTlXep6d9fv1CPEbLBbJoAW_x5_ut4178ur3qAugDOqZqCHOF3vl_R5WRfEUXhP1ALZnkpCnIALmYSOF/s320/BBFC0495-331C-4F6A-BF03-59F0C05BE648.jpeg" width="219" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnUfgXj0s9LGga4oEuRSD_AM3X2Awm7C1Jp_NWruJ69c_ejQ_yXckb522_4gBWJ37qRTwpdLfN_lTIWZ7_9SlpvqlrnL2VGLAA_MK6ZYgG5tXbsMFAC8SaTc-aMV5ZmMW6sfHxd6RFmm_68cwAY6WV2nIzWzEuNwSSaobucsIz1q20aXcpOsyqgRqO/s3775/851F7E39-B4FA-4963-AD99-9D38EAA287A9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3775" data-original-width="2787" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnUfgXj0s9LGga4oEuRSD_AM3X2Awm7C1Jp_NWruJ69c_ejQ_yXckb522_4gBWJ37qRTwpdLfN_lTIWZ7_9SlpvqlrnL2VGLAA_MK6ZYgG5tXbsMFAC8SaTc-aMV5ZmMW6sfHxd6RFmm_68cwAY6WV2nIzWzEuNwSSaobucsIz1q20aXcpOsyqgRqO/s320/851F7E39-B4FA-4963-AD99-9D38EAA287A9.jpeg" width="236" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHiSXqCxMSPxlu4QKEioi0P9kqwuEFlEWoMSrqXOwYMmutSpltOm3Wtn4VJimDwgNAI_5V4AK8kAqsdccRMUexdgF8i9_Ey4daX852hHqLfFBA_rW5532FYDuVVbRV0aETayXg7sEYBNdAN9nRtAz0TlhpLtUOUJELBtJF-iNXkG6jFto4ArOM27AI/s3722/EF99D23A-4026-40AC-B4FC-D9E18B1FB9F7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3722" data-original-width="2498" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHiSXqCxMSPxlu4QKEioi0P9kqwuEFlEWoMSrqXOwYMmutSpltOm3Wtn4VJimDwgNAI_5V4AK8kAqsdccRMUexdgF8i9_Ey4daX852hHqLfFBA_rW5532FYDuVVbRV0aETayXg7sEYBNdAN9nRtAz0TlhpLtUOUJELBtJF-iNXkG6jFto4ArOM27AI/s320/EF99D23A-4026-40AC-B4FC-D9E18B1FB9F7.jpeg" width="215" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next, the tails are twisted to form tight "barbels" (as they are lovingly referred to on the Elizabethan Costuming FB Page).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's a tad difficult to see, but the brim is also folded back over itself (just where the ties wrap around the head) in order to encourage it to spring out and upwards.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg91LXZxN1tyiom4HXm33_UW8iHv5ixJdp5fzYUC3Gm3Rs1NGc4XyNEi9UaeB7LWzqdULExmcx25uDLGBb3R5nWYx1-_ONRkYzHhPSD7eQFEhnXAwo9pwWWrtoUtkPI3NYudzhMkFj7mojG3TpA8-a71mY2RKP0eW-SCuRc0ayaZZoqMK30NaJirUd/s3924/Cap_21.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3924" data-original-width="2942" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg91LXZxN1tyiom4HXm33_UW8iHv5ixJdp5fzYUC3Gm3Rs1NGc4XyNEi9UaeB7LWzqdULExmcx25uDLGBb3R5nWYx1-_ONRkYzHhPSD7eQFEhnXAwo9pwWWrtoUtkPI3NYudzhMkFj7mojG3TpA8-a71mY2RKP0eW-SCuRc0ayaZZoqMK30NaJirUd/s320/Cap_21.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg43t19TxP5OMlF8H1OiHgHrsNcZ-vMq5zWXrj4PixLaFtn1cPZ5geWwMG5c0EWK6Y1U-lSN9WpbNN0lyWAB4sY1dF0DJLIPhvosWyfNYAiGn3YbTjlGHyhq9MoAw-dg9witx6WNYarI3YlF6uJUiZFa8Vf0CUrcDaQITU5BQzzKfEkmdh_0lF2_wyf/s3924/Cap_20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3924" data-original-width="2942" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg43t19TxP5OMlF8H1OiHgHrsNcZ-vMq5zWXrj4PixLaFtn1cPZ5geWwMG5c0EWK6Y1U-lSN9WpbNN0lyWAB4sY1dF0DJLIPhvosWyfNYAiGn3YbTjlGHyhq9MoAw-dg9witx6WNYarI3YlF6uJUiZFa8Vf0CUrcDaQITU5BQzzKfEkmdh_0lF2_wyf/s320/Cap_20.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7FZELxZ8eZV-fEEHbaHHA7ZhNbMed1emIL80y_Imw-KrSUOs6AMlZtnC6YpS1a2dWSAqxYnwCY7pxfCxo8ephsMKlTZayvPk0TuaWe3eyc03whiRnaNbOP_YVy0Qe7-hd99iFvc_hoDigHWExKqblADdwHhOFuUdaiDKRm99TXp-Op8-yLXOKOfGS/s3924/Cap_19.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3924" data-original-width="2942" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7FZELxZ8eZV-fEEHbaHHA7ZhNbMed1emIL80y_Imw-KrSUOs6AMlZtnC6YpS1a2dWSAqxYnwCY7pxfCxo8ephsMKlTZayvPk0TuaWe3eyc03whiRnaNbOP_YVy0Qe7-hd99iFvc_hoDigHWExKqblADdwHhOFuUdaiDKRm99TXp-Op8-yLXOKOfGS/s320/Cap_19.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The cap can then be pinned to create subtly different shapes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Flat across the top:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiGlyEDj78jO9TSy3qqJs7BJ6m1VE5gzigSc6iv4qBZm0C9qBoA8CAT0zQDjyu4WovUikLTq3JNcpDI9Xjc3LRHfCwyYuEs1jIj5xarqK8G6O_NH1sPjJ0Dx2gseeVdULvL6lQ3hfpRGX90h8yW75D6ifGR3xeS4oTaRpKiooCMTuTil3VuUxX8xv5/s2684/Cap_18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiGlyEDj78jO9TSy3qqJs7BJ6m1VE5gzigSc6iv4qBZm0C9qBoA8CAT0zQDjyu4WovUikLTq3JNcpDI9Xjc3LRHfCwyYuEs1jIj5xarqK8G6O_NH1sPjJ0Dx2gseeVdULvL6lQ3hfpRGX90h8yW75D6ifGR3xeS4oTaRpKiooCMTuTil3VuUxX8xv5/s320/Cap_18.jpg" width="256" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjII3_9ehdj_EfLqklxjaHQJvKtpDkZFE6YcQoneio2yA3U4E6P3abZtzcaeH2YHH6PzOsk_PfXVwkdFDTxC2PPLn9CbA9rf92Qj0km0DEB-glFmhZVrB1UjNt3dbYo8gzJCkgvg59QkFaqfQd_WwvR2C4RtCXZYHVS4tv_YdiAbjOmFVoILe-StTwk/s2684/Cap_04.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjII3_9ehdj_EfLqklxjaHQJvKtpDkZFE6YcQoneio2yA3U4E6P3abZtzcaeH2YHH6PzOsk_PfXVwkdFDTxC2PPLn9CbA9rf92Qj0km0DEB-glFmhZVrB1UjNt3dbYo8gzJCkgvg59QkFaqfQd_WwvR2C4RtCXZYHVS4tv_YdiAbjOmFVoILe-StTwk/s320/Cap_04.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Heart shaped: </div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJg6yA0dDfnPB2hrQ6pJKoGId12QONuSPcXGrFXIt3OG6JuJpFuMO21iuZGctKQuwTSKHGL-Kp6rJCNofWyNzC6qY_2uCMQLpbq78Mokn4-kT27v0lrUbQRcI0zMlaK8PV0jnPVGv9raye6_pcRx02DEwE0Tf0IKxA8k-Udigddd81hTjIMofXkJwy/s2684/Cap_12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJg6yA0dDfnPB2hrQ6pJKoGId12QONuSPcXGrFXIt3OG6JuJpFuMO21iuZGctKQuwTSKHGL-Kp6rJCNofWyNzC6qY_2uCMQLpbq78Mokn4-kT27v0lrUbQRcI0zMlaK8PV0jnPVGv9raye6_pcRx02DEwE0Tf0IKxA8k-Udigddd81hTjIMofXkJwy/s320/Cap_12.jpg" width="256" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3QKG9dTpJymS39IeKyDgR_JjjLeCbCFLrmTBzhzx2yiuM-zWLinRpKO8qElhA7RIoqn2Adbrw0dZhhMv59Rnc5eCucpQziItZuARmFxGy6TiK0Z3aRfSKbyicFLVifRqWXnPsCbge6QPF2A6miR7IvSUVKUImVf1ZvtXsD7kFTZkrm90F8fwzHy3R/s2684/Cap_10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3QKG9dTpJymS39IeKyDgR_JjjLeCbCFLrmTBzhzx2yiuM-zWLinRpKO8qElhA7RIoqn2Adbrw0dZhhMv59Rnc5eCucpQziItZuARmFxGy6TiK0Z3aRfSKbyicFLVifRqWXnPsCbge6QPF2A6miR7IvSUVKUImVf1ZvtXsD7kFTZkrm90F8fwzHy3R/s320/Cap_10.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Or even that baffling style where the tails form a ring.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOWShuEVJx5BbR7VpVakijCq5HeWo2oENNr7-LAGu5X_WIGxv3Y1p6DOcPEu-9g5nbaGuDbWp6xYb8jdoh0Mzm0ZoWUc1zicYcbvcBVNmpzrk1eoUp11PW5I2Yr80ICczSxJ61tB012jskPtSFRixG_d7HcDsC_pdtxPAW2rL-fGeZ9wt3voILem6S/s541/8CD18A1A-8F5E-40B9-8AFC-5616878075F5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="541" data-original-width="419" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOWShuEVJx5BbR7VpVakijCq5HeWo2oENNr7-LAGu5X_WIGxv3Y1p6DOcPEu-9g5nbaGuDbWp6xYb8jdoh0Mzm0ZoWUc1zicYcbvcBVNmpzrk1eoUp11PW5I2Yr80ICczSxJ61tB012jskPtSFRixG_d7HcDsC_pdtxPAW2rL-fGeZ9wt3voILem6S/s320/8CD18A1A-8F5E-40B9-8AFC-5616878075F5.jpeg" width="248" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3iEfN0fGQWCMkBIfc-yvRgSia5XsZUnTARs0uVPLMw-9NfBsXNX5Pg9DhHorHXwIW1FNR_aMyhlz9ghbPR_JmPajKTX9MiDci1XdjjpVkjg8I6f9q_IFBa_8cfN-jklbVvF4gtm-bDYMEVOgq5XkKxXYF0Ttm50lBcSomL2Z1oHvc1EWTZjsZpnUM/s2684/Cap_08.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2684" data-original-width="2146" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3iEfN0fGQWCMkBIfc-yvRgSia5XsZUnTARs0uVPLMw-9NfBsXNX5Pg9DhHorHXwIW1FNR_aMyhlz9ghbPR_JmPajKTX9MiDci1XdjjpVkjg8I6f9q_IFBa_8cfN-jklbVvF4gtm-bDYMEVOgq5XkKxXYF0Ttm50lBcSomL2Z1oHvc1EWTZjsZpnUM/s320/Cap_08.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And....I think that's about it!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Phew! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For what was meant to brief side post ended up pretty packed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I should also note that all of the above styles are worn over a close fitting coif...</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1t0AcZZn42kcrmyEuJ2GtLpZFQ1x4sO0aAm6UU3AocydHfrf7mkXmIRk_rv5KavjOrFe4zp6kJVdS-f5Z4jTXl-EYcBH5wexN0p3KBFP4HsfEYtrrh9xAG1PyHeSmKR1oED1PEBipZjlQZ9coNduIAJxw0b911vaAR_m3iCjP9DpdGoPRpgJYcL5C/s2048/coif.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1740" data-original-width="2048" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1t0AcZZn42kcrmyEuJ2GtLpZFQ1x4sO0aAm6UU3AocydHfrf7mkXmIRk_rv5KavjOrFe4zp6kJVdS-f5Z4jTXl-EYcBH5wexN0p3KBFP4HsfEYtrrh9xAG1PyHeSmKR1oED1PEBipZjlQZ9coNduIAJxw0b911vaAR_m3iCjP9DpdGoPRpgJYcL5C/s320/coif.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...but for the most part I didn't use my ear irons (or 'oorijzers'). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYDKO5rUKGZR_JcsGiTBwoQ9ML40mn4SNXVqyKNUojtSkGlvQeo-C44-JhT70Xo8ovfrfp_kege86swjViIbGaUyf6Ncka1Y5vHaKT4FN4ECT_wuZiPKefuGTZ4GFojUpdAOddwK9i9UY6DNaEGL9RK_Pvq02CPqEH-WqORxeh4Q15dQZjF31nG38i/s2048/diary-k-69.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1275" data-original-width="2048" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYDKO5rUKGZR_JcsGiTBwoQ9ML40mn4SNXVqyKNUojtSkGlvQeo-C44-JhT70Xo8ovfrfp_kege86swjViIbGaUyf6Ncka1Y5vHaKT4FN4ECT_wuZiPKefuGTZ4GFojUpdAOddwK9i9UY6DNaEGL9RK_Pvq02CPqEH-WqORxeh4Q15dQZjF31nG38i/s320/diary-k-69.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEQVLxtATeNikD46tIDexuqhOR7JZOiyaKFJs2hCPZ2KTkmTNGyI5EDDv1rfMWfWxW9vYj8_Ooi1fq1dAVEBlZZ7-FmLJnmw90zv9UHwbmpFN5aGzolHmqJoMh7b89Rl-VlsfkToqEzsG26EjBBsjH9pavSjXStQidLVkj4CPF3H-zA0Q83tgdx9B4/s978/coif3%20copy%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="936" data-original-width="978" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEQVLxtATeNikD46tIDexuqhOR7JZOiyaKFJs2hCPZ2KTkmTNGyI5EDDv1rfMWfWxW9vYj8_Ooi1fq1dAVEBlZZ7-FmLJnmw90zv9UHwbmpFN5aGzolHmqJoMh7b89Rl-VlsfkToqEzsG26EjBBsjH9pavSjXStQidLVkj4CPF3H-zA0Q83tgdx9B4/s320/coif3%20copy%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(Oooh...look at her, she's a baby! <br />Back when you still took photos with <i>cameras.</i>)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Usually I use oorijzers to help stabilize my starched caps and veils, but found that most styles worked well enough just pinned to the under coif.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I did however use ear irons for these two images. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(While I found they did help anchor the coif they were not strictly necessary to achieve a similar look. Having said that, I will probably still opt for them when wear this style out of doors)</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8BCzUHjL88btTS5-kA7VOxL_VduApUxM8YLZDKASDAAX_Bzapn7SCN4OiP0Qt9qqQiWeQ25ZXC_4GQPr6hM_c-RrYkwZRekMjc4LCGNyrrKSb088oDb0CwKqoApoXJP3KXp9nHvCykU6jH3KS-yMqBPMFXOumI2HgQyFeTLrt1PGKyducWlSL572b/s2881/Barbel-01%20copy%20DS.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2881" data-original-width="2165" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8BCzUHjL88btTS5-kA7VOxL_VduApUxM8YLZDKASDAAX_Bzapn7SCN4OiP0Qt9qqQiWeQ25ZXC_4GQPr6hM_c-RrYkwZRekMjc4LCGNyrrKSb088oDb0CwKqoApoXJP3KXp9nHvCykU6jH3KS-yMqBPMFXOumI2HgQyFeTLrt1PGKyducWlSL572b/s320/Barbel-01%20copy%20DS.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidjB6ASYAEtWhwyOqZLsP3PHgAQSyc3L_v_63RCswGgnzW2gFpj5nADfN3UaP28sBjZzlqwTmptnp24ZoIIrha55G2w-N2MESEHD31BtGDbheJM_mtswrzMHSJxBOIbPQYdNFvoU9b6_7miATK6N2GJaktVIEh0wfzD49xy8u4OJVwvhwNOUHop-TM/s2881/Barbel-02%20copy%20DS.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2881" data-original-width="2165" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidjB6ASYAEtWhwyOqZLsP3PHgAQSyc3L_v_63RCswGgnzW2gFpj5nADfN3UaP28sBjZzlqwTmptnp24ZoIIrha55G2w-N2MESEHD31BtGDbheJM_mtswrzMHSJxBOIbPQYdNFvoU9b6_7miATK6N2GJaktVIEh0wfzD49xy8u4OJVwvhwNOUHop-TM/s320/Barbel-02%20copy%20DS.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Final thoughts: After all that I still don't think I've gotten much closer to figuring out what's really behind these styles, but it was fun and informative to compare the various shapes and silhouettes. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">At the very least I've got a couple of good options for my Keanu outfit...which after all was the whole point.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Hopefully I can get the full post up soon!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>(EDIT</i>: And <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer-outfit.html">HERE </a>it is!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Pattern: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Veils: self drafted/draped </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Coif: <a href="http://www.marquisofwinchesters.co.uk/2017/01/23/living-history-guide-coifs-and-hair/">The Marquess of Winchester</a> Coif #4 (with significant edits)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Fabric:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Trim and Notions:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Linen tape (1/4") for lacing from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Thread:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White cotton thread (silk finish)</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-58767379137739948542022-11-06T15:47:00.004-08:002022-11-27T15:51:55.708-08:00Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer - The Inspiration<p style="text-align: center;"> <span style="text-align: center;">***</span></p><div>Like most of my projects, this one is a couple of years in the making. And it started with this image.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1Kd4GO5aClZ2wF7Q1Zow_mhhIGgGBdnw-k1hb7JniAD13bMC_aIU30Xfv3BNQeHCrBBUf_qtk5SJucS6avEPIbM7N13OQuRY3KWUQpkHpykFDKI4WQtfVyGDUd-YQf-NCyHqg-7uygBlXdzt0PxGS-k2O2MWnFivjsIi8tF-0egbMs63T_EJsm66/s815/a22f7813ca3e7fea99840cd929c4823c.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="815" data-original-width="564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1Kd4GO5aClZ2wF7Q1Zow_mhhIGgGBdnw-k1hb7JniAD13bMC_aIU30Xfv3BNQeHCrBBUf_qtk5SJucS6avEPIbM7N13OQuRY3KWUQpkHpykFDKI4WQtfVyGDUd-YQf-NCyHqg-7uygBlXdzt0PxGS-k2O2MWnFivjsIi8tF-0egbMs63T_EJsm66/w276-h400/a22f7813ca3e7fea99840cd929c4823c.jpg" width="276" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>It first came to my notice when I was planning my blue <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/search/label/Blue%20Gown">Trevelyon inspired gown</a>. At the time I was looking for reference of other similar long sleeved gowns or kirtles.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqicPu9YUsku6CImX5Y3mMvdfMMzf9jL2QBwW4gc1I8Mtm-gqpQ2S-v3n3lWoW5hV62dv6beXFHycZX6sp0vdtC8kAEd_gCe60A_u-KMvs5aZ7j8HUuHtMEeYWtLwIC8d-WX8hxWgKnzFIMyqX5N4VXGaINR9ahxLi8i5Aqsy5vNRc_kVuvc2bSV2o/s601/t2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="601" data-original-width="438" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqicPu9YUsku6CImX5Y3mMvdfMMzf9jL2QBwW4gc1I8Mtm-gqpQ2S-v3n3lWoW5hV62dv6beXFHycZX6sp0vdtC8kAEd_gCe60A_u-KMvs5aZ7j8HUuHtMEeYWtLwIC8d-WX8hxWgKnzFIMyqX5N4VXGaINR9ahxLi8i5Aqsy5vNRc_kVuvc2bSV2o/w146-h200/t2.jpg" width="146" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI46HKGUAAOmn-bdRME4-ENgEwEmQJ7uXsZ4fB2OgNLXXKyQHZ_rutIJ5npaC9mgeQz9ACd09pQUItZxDRqu7Gyox8TxlXINxalt2BtyZcEsXOHrBNQjR8C8wVZ8OmxoYbt7EzaPktETi-UkDl76_jJ9tJAwZBH-Na3ZVlYg6UMcs5DmpKqop8ETcl/s776/orig.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="776" data-original-width="564" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI46HKGUAAOmn-bdRME4-ENgEwEmQJ7uXsZ4fB2OgNLXXKyQHZ_rutIJ5npaC9mgeQz9ACd09pQUItZxDRqu7Gyox8TxlXINxalt2BtyZcEsXOHrBNQjR8C8wVZ8OmxoYbt7EzaPktETi-UkDl76_jJ9tJAwZBH-Na3ZVlYg6UMcs5DmpKqop8ETcl/w146-h200/orig.jpg" width="146" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>At first I didn't think much of the etching, other than noting that the lady in question looked particularity badass. </div><div>But then I started to come across more and more images of similarly posed women, usually holding a spear and armed with a plethora of other weapons. </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xYvl2QsjqvIE5S1ywod-KrH87OTufzd64dNcGryiB8fRPmY0JZnz4bQNEQdRh23pSf_suTrtlAJj57ZDEIG6kHG7F7G16rmJnGx_1e1zH8YijNMDbqgxXgC5dw2FEstDu86SKG44LUnKqMZycrmru_UBSv7dhKHLHe1ftbGx2CMYgAOu4g4uVflU/s1690/4EE1A7B4-1F12-4DEB-B3A8-245864A48F09.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1690" data-original-width="1199" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xYvl2QsjqvIE5S1ywod-KrH87OTufzd64dNcGryiB8fRPmY0JZnz4bQNEQdRh23pSf_suTrtlAJj57ZDEIG6kHG7F7G16rmJnGx_1e1zH8YijNMDbqgxXgC5dw2FEstDu86SKG44LUnKqMZycrmru_UBSv7dhKHLHe1ftbGx2CMYgAOu4g4uVflU/s320/4EE1A7B4-1F12-4DEB-B3A8-245864A48F09.jpeg" width="227" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVMZujpTsQhA671fLtcdPi6X5M7BU2rxq7ix0uEYs9KJI-pxcdGXrXyMNH5LniGP0jUwjGAnCVgg8CbmWqATI4JLRFUVm0MwaM8GOpKyCISqPEvJUOUnrrGbdoh5el1WdXmw_Z14etSDqMH0-n6J9K9B0ceKxMC-zI6o9hWaaRF9EbKtLpnkugM04S/s716/CFDBB163-21AB-4D72-81FE-05BCFF4613AD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="716" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVMZujpTsQhA671fLtcdPi6X5M7BU2rxq7ix0uEYs9KJI-pxcdGXrXyMNH5LniGP0jUwjGAnCVgg8CbmWqATI4JLRFUVm0MwaM8GOpKyCISqPEvJUOUnrrGbdoh5el1WdXmw_Z14etSDqMH0-n6J9K9B0ceKxMC-zI6o9hWaaRF9EbKtLpnkugM04S/s320/CFDBB163-21AB-4D72-81FE-05BCFF4613AD.jpeg" width="268" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAF0APdLFmBIL-yyqxDj9dciSWHP2Tub_IKHnRsqvrP2q-qCM-DR0Zo7W0Q00dy7ii8v-N7XiQaAPFgR-Q8h_jB7uRr8Pt3m6HU5F0Tq4la-XKmsMKHakpxoCdxre8IxOTP2yM_l784oSuTQZGrFE7ZZWR1I4XFenHgX1bnYFDlsZk4EtXpEYn4HZo/s1752/9AA8A844-10BF-4926-BAE2-54D82013E493.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1752" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAF0APdLFmBIL-yyqxDj9dciSWHP2Tub_IKHnRsqvrP2q-qCM-DR0Zo7W0Q00dy7ii8v-N7XiQaAPFgR-Q8h_jB7uRr8Pt3m6HU5F0Tq4la-XKmsMKHakpxoCdxre8IxOTP2yM_l784oSuTQZGrFE7ZZWR1I4XFenHgX1bnYFDlsZk4EtXpEYn4HZo/s320/9AA8A844-10BF-4926-BAE2-54D82013E493.jpeg" width="219" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hiwn3z4MJZOS4JH7_R02k8qyuAG4JNY5S9WVJijddzxA85pCciGyoT4X2z3C1st227b5M1jBTvniBd7okL1fDq8woKYZSstMf8z8J0d7QJLezhD3plgt-587yhFhPlLy0MimhyR09TS1sJ2p4wwIvEDQ-dYEFi_oAsK37YKd7d1xIWY2_ojjbpaj/s892/ae634ea06b7ebfe6ade6c3fe33bd6e4a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="892" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hiwn3z4MJZOS4JH7_R02k8qyuAG4JNY5S9WVJijddzxA85pCciGyoT4X2z3C1st227b5M1jBTvniBd7okL1fDq8woKYZSstMf8z8J0d7QJLezhD3plgt-587yhFhPlLy0MimhyR09TS1sJ2p4wwIvEDQ-dYEFi_oAsK37YKd7d1xIWY2_ojjbpaj/s320/ae634ea06b7ebfe6ade6c3fe33bd6e4a.jpg" width="202" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqXTA57dhqTAjxjjn6CWdWdDxWB015FBci0-4gqa4hFuArkgzTt-u0U2qDlF9KJfTJNmaSH46auBtlY-aJcRARMEmGc_LLxgYC5FijfLzeeEhhPddkpsNq6bvspJxjrSL4zkYpn8hVtvdjdqQdAKrFB3M3W9s47Ken6UUDJltPGTGbFKUQ1OZbmsXb/s800/00141094-0D62-413B-B33E-3A769398A8E9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="577" data-original-width="800" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqXTA57dhqTAjxjjn6CWdWdDxWB015FBci0-4gqa4hFuArkgzTt-u0U2qDlF9KJfTJNmaSH46auBtlY-aJcRARMEmGc_LLxgYC5FijfLzeeEhhPddkpsNq6bvspJxjrSL4zkYpn8hVtvdjdqQdAKrFB3M3W9s47Ken6UUDJltPGTGbFKUQ1OZbmsXb/s320/00141094-0D62-413B-B33E-3A769398A8E9.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">At the time I assumed the imagery was strictly allegorical.</div><div style="text-align: left;">I'm embarrassed to say that it took me quite a while to look into what was actually <i>written</i> on the etchings. If I had I would have discovered that all images are of a single, named woman: Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer (1526–1588).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGM4vid9CgnPN2NQd4aKyqBAj1yGV9mAjyk4BshFDnD5I48JVmKgYBvpQ2X-OEf8jC4Y7W4GpTl2AqbxzhtBDKI-bQNNiz-lFBnCz4vLTy3M5K5Vc7Ghmr4M-sXKLHiFMgR5uCxOc0oXjBCxbxE-_Q2ZB9FxSo0vB9SoGdapX0_coLxKSSv5u4u4g4/s440/7D26A09C-13FB-47CD-8602-DEA588211B6C.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="433" data-original-width="440" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGM4vid9CgnPN2NQd4aKyqBAj1yGV9mAjyk4BshFDnD5I48JVmKgYBvpQ2X-OEf8jC4Y7W4GpTl2AqbxzhtBDKI-bQNNiz-lFBnCz4vLTy3M5K5Vc7Ghmr4M-sXKLHiFMgR5uCxOc0oXjBCxbxE-_Q2ZB9FxSo0vB9SoGdapX0_coLxKSSv5u4u4g4/s320/7D26A09C-13FB-47CD-8602-DEA588211B6C.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face="sans-serif" style="background-color: #f8f9fa; font-size: 12.32px;"> Portrait of a woman from the Hasselaer family, 16thC. Assumed to be Kenau</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">As far as I can tell from the English sources, Kenau is a Dutch folk hero who become legendary for her actions during the 1573 siege of Haarlem. In the years following the siege her (probable) role as one of the citizens maintaining the earthworks expanded to throwing incendiary devices from the battlements and ultimately to that of a soldier leading an army of 300 angry women into battle against the Spanish!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">(While the tale is almost certainly embellished, the real Kenau was probably killed by pirates in the late 1580s and so she still remains very badass in my books!)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_yk9l1srjEiTryKvNfAFn97aE0h6KUxDklD2rfO_YNn4HC3Wy3VSzYg4b90PrQtumkTaS3feS6sDCNmnQcH4wp0DPXMC3n9CAjuX_4dEesWaH9m5IYlGgQjDn_WG7h4AiNWYGjy-Nml8psdlUUQ6L6mYUFh0ElRGZTqJUCoQfgX-Pb_Yo-qyET8Ci/s1199/FA407C06-1A57-4226-9ABD-0AD991D6C973.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="951" data-original-width="1199" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_yk9l1srjEiTryKvNfAFn97aE0h6KUxDklD2rfO_YNn4HC3Wy3VSzYg4b90PrQtumkTaS3feS6sDCNmnQcH4wp0DPXMC3n9CAjuX_4dEesWaH9m5IYlGgQjDn_WG7h4AiNWYGjy-Nml8psdlUUQ6L6mYUFh0ElRGZTqJUCoQfgX-Pb_Yo-qyET8Ci/w400-h318/FA407C06-1A57-4226-9ABD-0AD991D6C973.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">After looking into the history and expansion of her legend I <i>really</i> wanted to return to the image that first sparked my interest and create an homage to Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer. But I wasn't sure if that image could be trusted...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">While most of portraits and etching of Kenau mention the year 1573 (the year of the siege) most date to significantly later. Her popularity seems to have peaked around the centenary celebrations in 1673 and so many images date to the middle of the 17th century and later.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">One of the earliest images I could find is this painting by an anonymous artist which is currently believed to date from around 1580-1609 (perhaps painted within her lifetime or shortly after her death). An etching based on this painting dates from 1740-74.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEn3hMVCRM-5c5bZCBADINKW7yd6xVZrVXbpnVAsYL8iqHpYgXQUnSsdETwSSJDHu3dpFuDLYRwYBH8q_PSZvELo0BeBLMSEindN5EdnVIaUqlqpr2J0Ys2lnOepbRTwUyjsIFbUl_Z85PUW4qTagdQJt5teru8zhgnGXciI_rICoPa0Kb-LdA9A2Z/s765/1F419B33-4FB6-4A7A-A307-25078720996E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="765" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEn3hMVCRM-5c5bZCBADINKW7yd6xVZrVXbpnVAsYL8iqHpYgXQUnSsdETwSSJDHu3dpFuDLYRwYBH8q_PSZvELo0BeBLMSEindN5EdnVIaUqlqpr2J0Ys2lnOepbRTwUyjsIFbUl_Z85PUW4qTagdQJt5teru8zhgnGXciI_rICoPa0Kb-LdA9A2Z/s320/1F419B33-4FB6-4A7A-A307-25078720996E.jpeg" width="251" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7fAtgdczwduv9_ty-Ao1Kj7xQ-QOgfRf-pt9Jic3nYK3vAhSniXO_D5vKNcC5o5L1NAzBX1oDjyLe7XbwpG-rIjo6LLRXgjjhxBFzVwG5PXTg_c0WeRKtn6Rz2IAm7W0E_lFSgwYgs0NbwKdsTzIHMwC1l4XW3y9igkTY40feFeth0K7Ahx_nKum/s1672/01199CEF-A290-4F59-A1D3-3C042E057772.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1672" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7fAtgdczwduv9_ty-Ao1Kj7xQ-QOgfRf-pt9Jic3nYK3vAhSniXO_D5vKNcC5o5L1NAzBX1oDjyLe7XbwpG-rIjo6LLRXgjjhxBFzVwG5PXTg_c0WeRKtn6Rz2IAm7W0E_lFSgwYgs0NbwKdsTzIHMwC1l4XW3y9igkTY40feFeth0K7Ahx_nKum/s320/01199CEF-A290-4F59-A1D3-3C042E057772.jpeg" width="230" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">She wears a black, fitted gown and a classic Dutch split-veil. She also appears to be closer to her actual age.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I really like this version of Keanu and it's one I might even return to in the future.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next earliest image is a fragment of a tapestry that is also dated to the 1580s or 90s.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB5Ka7MZUsH4WsV6VJhumoADev66RgAtVOblhBhJthHameGoUlsX8jUili1ZcbH7kX_9j8-r5LaE2XPGI1YRSaJd4rRseZdRpXM6qGNiEFywZIgltsAobhqOEO0oZ6X0-sJToMtJdB9_Oi-NNzzAVhyt8qglgJ1t0kOZFC5BAjJs_4cYFkhK-GGzrY/s1238/02532499-243B-4C6B-A18D-FCB57D424C21.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1238" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB5Ka7MZUsH4WsV6VJhumoADev66RgAtVOblhBhJthHameGoUlsX8jUili1ZcbH7kX_9j8-r5LaE2XPGI1YRSaJd4rRseZdRpXM6qGNiEFywZIgltsAobhqOEO0oZ6X0-sJToMtJdB9_Oi-NNzzAVhyt8qglgJ1t0kOZFC5BAjJs_4cYFkhK-GGzrY/s320/02532499-243B-4C6B-A18D-FCB57D424C21.jpeg" width="310" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I have to say I'm significantly less convinced by this image. The coifs seemed to be handled oddly and there's something about the woman on the right's pose with the pistol that feels somewhat 19th c.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The one thing it possibly has going in it's favour is the rendering on the partlet (but more on that later...)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This image also features the classic Kenau stance: three-quarter front pose, hand on hip, holding a spear out to the side.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My guess is that this is based on an already established image of Kenau and therefore dates to significantly later than 1580 (or is based on a lost original from the same period).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Either way, this seems to the archetypical pose and one that is seen again and again.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxIGpFnoNiyNCrJoPn2OJF0Qx2_-dYKaq-mw0ZmmJAf32blSNjWViRSITv03VK2m26o4sHxnecYevsNFlNwxgPEzoi6oT-7-S3KeBrvKIWs4V5e0iKP8p9p8qgPSzjf3i72DVH1Z66xtQ6XGOMxi-8j9fLCB74j11wipgsJ5gbh1ZbvC-KHjfj1V7p/s1478/979142C6-ABB2-46C0-B535-B5336676C6DC.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1478" data-original-width="1120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxIGpFnoNiyNCrJoPn2OJF0Qx2_-dYKaq-mw0ZmmJAf32blSNjWViRSITv03VK2m26o4sHxnecYevsNFlNwxgPEzoi6oT-7-S3KeBrvKIWs4V5e0iKP8p9p8qgPSzjf3i72DVH1Z66xtQ6XGOMxi-8j9fLCB74j11wipgsJ5gbh1ZbvC-KHjfj1V7p/s320/979142C6-ABB2-46C0-B535-B5336676C6DC.jpeg" width="242" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrn71x3l7HKXF1m-78j4cBDDwm_JPvvczFw7GTWnh95wbPW89lf6JuNdJ21FV0wFXCvcQAm1G5ojiG9C21XuJRDzwim3vYJ8KoDkgUqqpOtBcmHhuUJeiMTjtjn5X_4V84g-GdSh7wkfrDVCDli1fZtBs0yPE-Kkaqdzgp8Bn9yT859pOGzDvMYNR6/s1284/F76464C4-5674-4B68-852A-6EC4173C5326.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1284" data-original-width="1199" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrn71x3l7HKXF1m-78j4cBDDwm_JPvvczFw7GTWnh95wbPW89lf6JuNdJ21FV0wFXCvcQAm1G5ojiG9C21XuJRDzwim3vYJ8KoDkgUqqpOtBcmHhuUJeiMTjtjn5X_4V84g-GdSh7wkfrDVCDli1fZtBs0yPE-Kkaqdzgp8Bn9yT859pOGzDvMYNR6/s320/F76464C4-5674-4B68-852A-6EC4173C5326.jpeg" width="299" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicagEGE0AAIKYJClDzB8_kzohTyLqBetCj3juZLv9oIsMYHy8zqO7D-7B93G9v7ARu2_yMv9j8AcDBqzawC1G-0ePwTmFssrGjqLiHSLjQgRQO1kbwMxGH4l-FkDeQIQkWQuxP0FjTAJhM7eoNFooSwp_X8raUkLDVp5fbr10HkBVE05to88U243yj/s1198/55494ED2-4223-4A83-AD9B-C465585CBA48.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="452" data-original-width="1198" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicagEGE0AAIKYJClDzB8_kzohTyLqBetCj3juZLv9oIsMYHy8zqO7D-7B93G9v7ARu2_yMv9j8AcDBqzawC1G-0ePwTmFssrGjqLiHSLjQgRQO1kbwMxGH4l-FkDeQIQkWQuxP0FjTAJhM7eoNFooSwp_X8raUkLDVp5fbr10HkBVE05to88U243yj/w400-h151/55494ED2-4223-4A83-AD9B-C465585CBA48.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6mKbGEsQa1EjE-_Ca9PCA_Nofvvzr2TGxIJSkNVe5KFYMm67SUtwBBKU8FTdL6DeVP6psZTF05-G5O4Rv-f1MYjKefjDjDcZTDkdBDvTZpquBhC2m3fZOwfQ8MojpLEbxn0dSy4m64TTYhVFkq1cmSbSkWwGn36c4Qrf7tcdJqIW8K4PORY9-kMnb/s1200/2BAF5E42-2F76-4367-8D69-B80F24E4D755.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="942" data-original-width="1200" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6mKbGEsQa1EjE-_Ca9PCA_Nofvvzr2TGxIJSkNVe5KFYMm67SUtwBBKU8FTdL6DeVP6psZTF05-G5O4Rv-f1MYjKefjDjDcZTDkdBDvTZpquBhC2m3fZOwfQ8MojpLEbxn0dSy4m64TTYhVFkq1cmSbSkWwGn36c4Qrf7tcdJqIW8K4PORY9-kMnb/w400-h314/2BAF5E42-2F76-4367-8D69-B80F24E4D755.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Another element that later images of Keanu all seem to have in common is the colour pallet. She is almost always is depicted in a red (often rust) kirtle and a black...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>What</i> exactly? </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A gown? Partlet? This is where things get interesting...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">What is the black garment Keanu wearing in these later images? </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As far as I call there are three distinct camps:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> 1) A black partlet worn over a gown or long sleeved kirtle</span><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><span> 2) A black long sleeved gown, pulled back to show the underskirt or kirtle</span><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><span><span> 3) A black, long sleeved partlet</span><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now, I felt that a long sleeved partlet was probably the least likely option, but at the same time it was something appeared (or seemed to appear) in multiple images.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Why was this?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Were 17th c. artists misinterpreting an earlier style: repeating the same mistake over and over again as different artists copied each other (in a sort of visual game of '<i>telephone</i>'). Or were they projecting a later style backwards?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I really can't say.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It wasn't a style I'd come across in any other 16th century images, but as I broadened my search I did start to see something similar in 17th century ones, most notably in the watercolours of Gestina ter Borch.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiNKYM3eTiPbHglxhs0YvvFvrP354aEiAq6XJEKnEuQS_pkfM3cf0H07uV2JWtya-iTAA7etjFVnOJ6qjGi3TX6k1MfR_Avac8KKE9h2B9OfKg0K1q1EiTR_bX0SAcD0dh83p-7T7dzbuK_0kcuvbNoU56QZ08fljbqXMJ-vKqVCbNo2wx15M69CFE/s1200/8567EFD8-EB97-46D2-B5A4-6B35C77E242B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="937" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiNKYM3eTiPbHglxhs0YvvFvrP354aEiAq6XJEKnEuQS_pkfM3cf0H07uV2JWtya-iTAA7etjFVnOJ6qjGi3TX6k1MfR_Avac8KKE9h2B9OfKg0K1q1EiTR_bX0SAcD0dh83p-7T7dzbuK_0kcuvbNoU56QZ08fljbqXMJ-vKqVCbNo2wx15M69CFE/s320/8567EFD8-EB97-46D2-B5A4-6B35C77E242B.jpeg" width="250" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigpwixe4i0VYd-XVXm-Vw9YkgTbTAXFpGRZ87LKdHKjBmudTDleZZO7s-vOpjPC1v29REp3ZPsVGkOtobSHUUwePIUsSe4nnehOeoTyRTqbS7P6E0PRj33MB_r8e6y-HslzSz82ymm3HQFc0LF6j94hd6o6W5Yv7sC6uFzIHYwZ21xJ4WroErQbaA2/s1200/B1775A68-679E-48D5-8B4F-1CC8AAAFCEF5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="840" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigpwixe4i0VYd-XVXm-Vw9YkgTbTAXFpGRZ87LKdHKjBmudTDleZZO7s-vOpjPC1v29REp3ZPsVGkOtobSHUUwePIUsSe4nnehOeoTyRTqbS7P6E0PRj33MB_r8e6y-HslzSz82ymm3HQFc0LF6j94hd6o6W5Yv7sC6uFzIHYwZ21xJ4WroErQbaA2/s320/B1775A68-679E-48D5-8B4F-1CC8AAAFCEF5.jpeg" width="224" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzbnbLWlmW1Y-BwHtNHf9SwOUveKUr3HbPZ983ElKL6loB2B8yRak50yRIK82uxmXAEMioIxgm4M4L1W2IatVmbJnKGW6JqpMFcDuZysgJRQU_CGlgg3wXuNEsa4tE_-UihTjWVprIMQgjPomMQ1pc253nw15s00HJ6sSewUX26wZ9WB1OqsT6CqB/s1200/FDF152B1-96F9-477D-9F45-CBA91378BB1C.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="823" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzbnbLWlmW1Y-BwHtNHf9SwOUveKUr3HbPZ983ElKL6loB2B8yRak50yRIK82uxmXAEMioIxgm4M4L1W2IatVmbJnKGW6JqpMFcDuZysgJRQU_CGlgg3wXuNEsa4tE_-UihTjWVprIMQgjPomMQ1pc253nw15s00HJ6sSewUX26wZ9WB1OqsT6CqB/s320/FDF152B1-96F9-477D-9F45-CBA91378BB1C.jpeg" width="219" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5O83lbbuo5HI8G8PUck4bPLvxHc8yC1JXux-3XTpRvTY4FqFz6qG47gDlR6q0zFCXK-jOKRUinAkPgTz4bVG2KcYLbeL__oTjT6dMjR_oKV9B4ay_Is8QqOlV0q3lCFAkKx0JbDk4uKEMeJi4iFmPVZIEP_-JJBWjCM85sd1SeiVuSneHQSwL9QuO/s1200/D23BAB31-A243-4CDA-9405-8233D83C6811.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="872" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5O83lbbuo5HI8G8PUck4bPLvxHc8yC1JXux-3XTpRvTY4FqFz6qG47gDlR6q0zFCXK-jOKRUinAkPgTz4bVG2KcYLbeL__oTjT6dMjR_oKV9B4ay_Is8QqOlV0q3lCFAkKx0JbDk4uKEMeJi4iFmPVZIEP_-JJBWjCM85sd1SeiVuSneHQSwL9QuO/s320/D23BAB31-A243-4CDA-9405-8233D83C6811.jpeg" width="233" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(NOTE: I actually ended up re-styling my Kenau outfit after these drawings. Photos of which can be found <i><a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/04/rust-brown-kirtle.html">HERE</a></i>. )</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now, it should be mentioned that there is still the possibility that these are actually pin on sleeves. However, the way these images are rendered makes me think that they are meant to represent integral sleeves on a sort of short coat or partlet. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu2Dmo1m8xUrF22zkmhKviS9n8zVfTlldDGCnYPSp7LEqwu1kj-0SpzeF-XP-nMKErwgPNPGlhpLkx79geL0f86SN4oVQWZxb64D_uD1Jr2YwK1mlNWQTlCJawfbIdIK0a8mpuSoXhZn0TUYj28HUlwtfNNTADorTiRzfFfMzPT6JBNre7Oqfk5Y6e/s650/C5C0D0BD-C4AD-4D9A-8F76-241944386ABE.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="506" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu2Dmo1m8xUrF22zkmhKviS9n8zVfTlldDGCnYPSp7LEqwu1kj-0SpzeF-XP-nMKErwgPNPGlhpLkx79geL0f86SN4oVQWZxb64D_uD1Jr2YwK1mlNWQTlCJawfbIdIK0a8mpuSoXhZn0TUYj28HUlwtfNNTADorTiRzfFfMzPT6JBNre7Oqfk5Y6e/w311-h400/C5C0D0BD-C4AD-4D9A-8F76-241944386ABE.jpeg" width="311" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's also looking more and more likely (to me) that this is a uniquely 17th century garment, especially since I had yet to find anything in earlier sources.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Until I came upon this Bruegel...</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiElEE7rEwCbQZktQYbwutAIGKwMDBS2i2DOCaRYgemKzKdwvJBJRjhtfuP76iBlR9jEzzl7Xksq7DeNA0MBuWHGi9eAIQuIYmZGQOOHqecFQbuh5RoEEtrMieXKNRz3cSjv04ncpZkhTVVvWWYzDXt_D6pUtF1LOoVmx4cyd9rTVuIcqjFyCerHDPO/s1568/9D3075C8-9E9B-40F1-907A-DB5E6CC1D0A2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1568" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiElEE7rEwCbQZktQYbwutAIGKwMDBS2i2DOCaRYgemKzKdwvJBJRjhtfuP76iBlR9jEzzl7Xksq7DeNA0MBuWHGi9eAIQuIYmZGQOOHqecFQbuh5RoEEtrMieXKNRz3cSjv04ncpZkhTVVvWWYzDXt_D6pUtF1LOoVmx4cyd9rTVuIcqjFyCerHDPO/s320/9D3075C8-9E9B-40F1-907A-DB5E6CC1D0A2.jpeg" width="245" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidzgRrkx_FHEDqi0mKDmNzOpP2jTmJITCEHngxtqW5LGsB5Qat1_TUW3IBFU9KTxE2cZpd1th6wyPpG-INDf96Tn_cLptMJ6uPI23mDn2f16ncD556mGNG6RsjiFVfFNR8ZAF9mL2tyXaZmq3evvDJ__jZ48AOFbIfijJo6qmTQ7p9dbSgAKD80Xi5/s1200/D4F0E334-E6CC-43B3-8AF3-D233ED1A1190.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1041" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidzgRrkx_FHEDqi0mKDmNzOpP2jTmJITCEHngxtqW5LGsB5Qat1_TUW3IBFU9KTxE2cZpd1th6wyPpG-INDf96Tn_cLptMJ6uPI23mDn2f16ncD556mGNG6RsjiFVfFNR8ZAF9mL2tyXaZmq3evvDJ__jZ48AOFbIfijJo6qmTQ7p9dbSgAKD80Xi5/s320/D4F0E334-E6CC-43B3-8AF3-D233ED1A1190.jpeg" width="278" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...BUT it's not what it seems.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's not an early to mid 16th c. painting by Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1525-1569) but a later re-working by his son, Jan Brueghel (1568-1625). It dates to about 1600 and is a pastiche of his father's earlier peasant paintings.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So right now I'm working under the theory that there <i>may</i> actually have been been some sort of short Dutch jacket in the early to mid 17th century, and so any images of Keanu supposedly wearing one in the 1570s are likely to be extremely anachronistic.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And yet...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>I WANT TO MAKE ONE.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So even though I think a black fitted gown is a much better choice for the historical Keanu, I opt for the more iconic later look. Long sleeved partlet and all…</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik4GvQCcjXPOdB6SRtHp26fvOm2YgIVLWHyhLDqhtqhv9O18nDybYT7IgVlmyiQxOq99YsXLAn2ulqNYSImYpszRHRI4ia5VZNcXzRxVTvIcSlHcfporoyI9T4_6oJZYeL76X1uXJrYlfPaC-Gnpdh7zaG8LH9sHmTI24E31lIfRf0yX0wiYRltI1D/s1478/Kenau%20copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1478" data-original-width="1120" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik4GvQCcjXPOdB6SRtHp26fvOm2YgIVLWHyhLDqhtqhv9O18nDybYT7IgVlmyiQxOq99YsXLAn2ulqNYSImYpszRHRI4ia5VZNcXzRxVTvIcSlHcfporoyI9T4_6oJZYeL76X1uXJrYlfPaC-Gnpdh7zaG8LH9sHmTI24E31lIfRf0yX0wiYRltI1D/w303-h400/Kenau%20copy.jpg" width="303" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Now this post has already gotten <i>WAY</i> too long, so I’m going to save the actual Dress Diary for a later post. </div><div style="text-align: left;">(Which can be found <i><a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer-outfit.html">HERE</a></i>)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">EDIT TO ADD:</div><div style="text-align: left;">So after all that deliberation and nearly a YEAR after finishing the gown I came across this image from 1558 which seems to show a short-ish jacket (with matching cuffs and collar)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Hkd77L4RynUS_xbW3NYmxBY5FWC5xauCw4lXOVg_I5mlhS4nPyESsoZr91Dur-bOxqAC23nLeSxAqpAnJoQ8d5KwXTPVTG-nXvycgbLuastnU1r66tHG4Gc8xu1fvMAiwqH1Po5DbE0aHtNENWkhxFttb7c21ccnYR9KRKQPnZswxih1_8iWGqpm/s2302/0488F7AA-9B5F-4B72-B6ED-D9A3FD1ED442.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2302" data-original-width="1421" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Hkd77L4RynUS_xbW3NYmxBY5FWC5xauCw4lXOVg_I5mlhS4nPyESsoZr91Dur-bOxqAC23nLeSxAqpAnJoQ8d5KwXTPVTG-nXvycgbLuastnU1r66tHG4Gc8xu1fvMAiwqH1Po5DbE0aHtNENWkhxFttb7c21ccnYR9KRKQPnZswxih1_8iWGqpm/w248-h400/0488F7AA-9B5F-4B72-B6ED-D9A3FD1ED442.jpeg" width="248" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">So now I’m back to not knowing what the heck is going on…</div></div><br />Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-62679830531369578442022-04-21T12:02:00.014-07:002022-11-27T15:52:43.250-08:00Rust Brown Kirtle<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div></div><div style="text-align: left;">Another mini update!</div><div style="text-align: left;">As the world opens up again (before potentially heading towards another surge, but that's another matter...) events are now a thing! </div><div style="text-align: left;">After two years my local Renaissance Faire has opened its doors again and so I decided to take advantage of a rare weekend of cool weather to bust out a new outfit: a rust wool kirtle that I completed during lockdown.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ivqG0Fshlbvf_j2r10ar6L27yIN_V14fdtUB2BB_TAquUi3BI01-pJC--jPLpvCreeXc2huY3sMVbUyuPjhVbHlvUjXPF3x-SLYH0MQVUrhHgFSwJmbi-XkVAzo8a_lrXILD2FF1ywyMS6JtrLP60Lkz3vusu1VB44hOxJHZ3v7rrzVdVTbzN0Aq/s1230/compare.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="865" data-original-width="1230" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ivqG0Fshlbvf_j2r10ar6L27yIN_V14fdtUB2BB_TAquUi3BI01-pJC--jPLpvCreeXc2huY3sMVbUyuPjhVbHlvUjXPF3x-SLYH0MQVUrhHgFSwJmbi-XkVAzo8a_lrXILD2FF1ywyMS6JtrLP60Lkz3vusu1VB44hOxJHZ3v7rrzVdVTbzN0Aq/w400-h281/compare.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The inspiration for this specific look is taken from a 1654 watercolour by Gestina ter Borch (above), but the real impetus for making the kirtle in the first place was a painting of Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer, a Dutch folk hero from the siege of Haarlem (1572).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh43dq8r3FFWK4nRXzvh3_Rl1K6z1iDiCdvjfhiKYH5LAwXJh8UnKVxzY_N0ZIulq3bHIHCz-3lg9MYHNwwAYOP8I0JfDDQ78Y3jTEf_0rrEq6zYsfj8TmWkRRtbef0rKvotPWfn3HvUmi7BIZ8aMZFArSlPDtganYZEC6A8tBO-_8ubfU84QqXv9-m/s1478/afb_1_OKS_I-169_framed_Tom_Haartsen_uitsnede.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1478" data-original-width="1120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh43dq8r3FFWK4nRXzvh3_Rl1K6z1iDiCdvjfhiKYH5LAwXJh8UnKVxzY_N0ZIulq3bHIHCz-3lg9MYHNwwAYOP8I0JfDDQ78Y3jTEf_0rrEq6zYsfj8TmWkRRtbef0rKvotPWfn3HvUmi7BIZ8aMZFArSlPDtganYZEC6A8tBO-_8ubfU84QqXv9-m/s320/afb_1_OKS_I-169_framed_Tom_Haartsen_uitsnede.jpg" width="242" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">In trying to research the the odd sleeved-partlet type garment she is wearing I came across the (much) later ter Borch image and <i>absolutely</i> fell in love with the styling...in particular the gathered up skirt and green stockings! </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidDwz8ZGa2vtTRVQ4TtAt8-roxEM7XgNzZB4ztPEXcZB9mx7HPiY84o_0C6bQOgvEkGds39Oll1bP6HhKUI2VNtLytW2ORRvs1Y0ZQzBIJz_M6XX102R5lJapN3EHRi58eNgFnyIjyZcaF63zbfGe4ptjuJlQne5XxrCMCDkfXv5dbjH2Ny_JhD6D4/s2488/terborch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1342" data-original-width="2488" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidDwz8ZGa2vtTRVQ4TtAt8-roxEM7XgNzZB4ztPEXcZB9mx7HPiY84o_0C6bQOgvEkGds39Oll1bP6HhKUI2VNtLytW2ORRvs1Y0ZQzBIJz_M6XX102R5lJapN3EHRi58eNgFnyIjyZcaF63zbfGe4ptjuJlQne5XxrCMCDkfXv5dbjH2Ny_JhD6D4/w400-h216/terborch.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So with most of the accessories already in hand, it was extremely easy (and very fun!) to restyle the kirtle for the 1650s...though I still think the overall look still reads as 16thc.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The skirt is pulled up over a low slung leather belt with a red ribbon tied around the hips. I ran out of ribbon to make a tie for the hat --as seen in the watercolour-- but I just ordered some additional yardage and so may take new photos in the future to more closely approximate the look.</div><div style="text-align: left;">In the meantime I think the overall effect is super cute!</div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_zSNul-oBdi1OscclTyegOKHTxIAiQ_NPaK0IOvDhRpixKR5xALChfAWIueRRyOHRKULxPSC608sklTcDv5u_m1K-7XqWT5tHB-7MWgcN89oFDqtu3wxIidGgiFhHrRhVUS7kZg1QPXj3TctWw9sTG_sdrUJaUEsatmhBWyLVcjtelDsP25o5YUx6/s3904/IMG_7459.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3904" data-original-width="3023" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_zSNul-oBdi1OscclTyegOKHTxIAiQ_NPaK0IOvDhRpixKR5xALChfAWIueRRyOHRKULxPSC608sklTcDv5u_m1K-7XqWT5tHB-7MWgcN89oFDqtu3wxIidGgiFhHrRhVUS7kZg1QPXj3TctWw9sTG_sdrUJaUEsatmhBWyLVcjtelDsP25o5YUx6/s320/IMG_7459.jpg" width="248" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYRTdXKJ8NP3BTcbUlWrMnUEmwXUy7lILG3OutGVNnZWStxZg9C7suP8418BHUIKqQlf12NNFGd12aU3zjvVMUHqIAbLzjozWypl-woE0o5FW6aeuYYUvRH3Zp6E595Szp5qmuSLos3HTuCa_WIL2bEYISsLZ75G5g28J5zlEx7GFIpy_TLU24J2Ry/s3042/IMG_7463.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3042" data-original-width="2419" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYRTdXKJ8NP3BTcbUlWrMnUEmwXUy7lILG3OutGVNnZWStxZg9C7suP8418BHUIKqQlf12NNFGd12aU3zjvVMUHqIAbLzjozWypl-woE0o5FW6aeuYYUvRH3Zp6E595Szp5qmuSLos3HTuCa_WIL2bEYISsLZ75G5g28J5zlEx7GFIpy_TLU24J2Ry/s320/IMG_7463.jpg" width="254" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO4XM94Di5HeavpJh6PCyg-Q1Ap1s0EqAgLugsRnhmlB8NIrZ2EUwsCmFeHvfGEy0mlBGHRfc0oIMaZFnJ2MWOznz1OMIU5JSUXq43OkIiyMT2sj_inRQbxoXrfQQ8Lh0dmOhQehznQ7DZBvHcr0imZF5wZMLmIizz9HatR63PyMV2P2U5MOv1NyB7/s3233/IMG_7467.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3233" data-original-width="2318" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO4XM94Di5HeavpJh6PCyg-Q1Ap1s0EqAgLugsRnhmlB8NIrZ2EUwsCmFeHvfGEy0mlBGHRfc0oIMaZFnJ2MWOznz1OMIU5JSUXq43OkIiyMT2sj_inRQbxoXrfQQ8Lh0dmOhQehznQ7DZBvHcr0imZF5wZMLmIizz9HatR63PyMV2P2U5MOv1NyB7/s320/IMG_7467.jpg" width="229" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I still intend to do a more in-depth post when I write-up and photograph the Kenau look (as well as add the missing third row of trim to the skirt). I don't want this page to just turn into a photo gallery, so hopefully this will just serve as a preview until I get the full post up!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(EDIT: That post can now be found <i><a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2022/11/kenau-simonsdochter-hasselaer-outfit.html">HERE</a></i>)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgaYXM0ESj6-y5u5Heq9C5LXHDlW0xEZOXool4yMY0R8YR6SQO4fCINZlLqSv8lz5yorvbEQgOiaIQxuXFmWhctI1NUl-CBn5IEc42yitIpYKgaydItBdmLSBxALLex2gUfDaU9995nVD-9_tw__ts5QdY9Y-T_WpSVo6mZGFTBQn2jnugC_p4jig/s3898/3A9C8BA6-A09E-46A5-A9FB-6CC96A9CBF79.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3898" data-original-width="2555" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgaYXM0ESj6-y5u5Heq9C5LXHDlW0xEZOXool4yMY0R8YR6SQO4fCINZlLqSv8lz5yorvbEQgOiaIQxuXFmWhctI1NUl-CBn5IEc42yitIpYKgaydItBdmLSBxALLex2gUfDaU9995nVD-9_tw__ts5QdY9Y-T_WpSVo6mZGFTBQn2jnugC_p4jig/w263-h400/3A9C8BA6-A09E-46A5-A9FB-6CC96A9CBF79.jpg" width="263" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-65201793480001902352022-02-03T14:00:00.011-08:002022-04-21T13:37:22.641-07:00Black Linen Pair o' Bodies<div style="text-align: center;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Let's take a trip back in time!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I've got quite a few outfits and/or pieces of outfits that I've completed over the last few the years but which --for one reason or another-- I've never documented.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">So let's start with a mini-post for my new (<span style="font-size: x-small;">read: not at all new</span>) Pair o' Bodies!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhSvz3DQq7FM7O9oYkiSzBSH4YTXtOv88TQx-GowMc26PUVJswgLdMwcmBePs70rCCO88KhOEYCx-JWMlImn3cuJfihX2V-GnUofoR6av_zV2wt-Dli3wrvVd8q3eegbuEbv5SYzAnjulfBIejy3BwIX3qY4aZuHyVTpKhevkslXSZXKlpUvoeXeWsn=s2048" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1563" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhSvz3DQq7FM7O9oYkiSzBSH4YTXtOv88TQx-GowMc26PUVJswgLdMwcmBePs70rCCO88KhOEYCx-JWMlImn3cuJfihX2V-GnUofoR6av_zV2wt-Dli3wrvVd8q3eegbuEbv5SYzAnjulfBIejy3BwIX3qY4aZuHyVTpKhevkslXSZXKlpUvoeXeWsn=s320" width="244" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjYNeTFhwG_Gyf4sMwWXDQ-3iuD94uk199ktc3YkH-_yT1M__vY_xDt8sWtUOKuaFQ9u8pQ_QHGftUBSTMLzEDXSuZJBsrhZsikuW9C1Mwx5V-ftciQ_IrKDYutzcXje-jhngFiU8hXxVNLrA4Fr6V92WUkfyUpi1ThyCR3MCch-jbYZWZU98oORPtH=s1812" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1812" data-original-width="1735" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjYNeTFhwG_Gyf4sMwWXDQ-3iuD94uk199ktc3YkH-_yT1M__vY_xDt8sWtUOKuaFQ9u8pQ_QHGftUBSTMLzEDXSuZJBsrhZsikuW9C1Mwx5V-ftciQ_IrKDYutzcXje-jhngFiU8hXxVNLrA4Fr6V92WUkfyUpi1ThyCR3MCch-jbYZWZU98oORPtH=s320" width="306" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I'm not sure when this photo dates to...probably some time between late 2017 and early 2019.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">(I mean, just look at that innocent young thing! She has no idea what's coming!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The pattern is pretty similar to my <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2013/11/grey-linen-corsetbodies.html">original grey bodies</a> in that both use the boning pattern inspired by the Pfalzgrafin Dorothea Sabina von Neuburg bodies (but adapted for front lacing in a way that is very, <i>VERY</i> anachronistic and wrong). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">However there are a few notable differences; the bust boning pattern is a little more shallow and back pieces have been altered to follow the same curve as my <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2017/01/petticoat-bodies.html">unboned petticoat bodies</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjTdBfmayJwOmf3B3vy3nOoti1AyeoMIeq1xRqlmybZeYXy1v82kJHihtBtsjA_H4W5uK-2YviKBldzcnCe1U3J752Dd7at1cNgQWVRpgik7qEHoXdTXX6i9QSbu4W1s1Sj3RWZJh0OfI0qcqC8OjOoYXL736wYZ7F74e5_wdUyfmOT9fa0n2A_OBuP=s2048" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1387" data-original-width="2048" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjTdBfmayJwOmf3B3vy3nOoti1AyeoMIeq1xRqlmybZeYXy1v82kJHihtBtsjA_H4W5uK-2YviKBldzcnCe1U3J752Dd7at1cNgQWVRpgik7qEHoXdTXX6i9QSbu4W1s1Sj3RWZJh0OfI0qcqC8OjOoYXL736wYZ7F74e5_wdUyfmOT9fa0n2A_OBuP=s320" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgY94d0oSYZWaDhJEEQL3o1C-65r9mvgZJqHvz9Ze8sVSNcT6U4tNfLlWkYPLyG-sji6cBwQCpn_mfL3BxDnW0dZuKhkRwhJE-opHSOXZts95WlVsCQSSooe24HqLXN9DH0B5HVMQAd9S9QGyaWTCsfUyZpkdqvstRMq4erd6xbnINDS0LJPnRSkjlp=s2048" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1454" data-original-width="2048" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgY94d0oSYZWaDhJEEQL3o1C-65r9mvgZJqHvz9Ze8sVSNcT6U4tNfLlWkYPLyG-sji6cBwQCpn_mfL3BxDnW0dZuKhkRwhJE-opHSOXZts95WlVsCQSSooe24HqLXN9DH0B5HVMQAd9S9QGyaWTCsfUyZpkdqvstRMq4erd6xbnINDS0LJPnRSkjlp=w320-h227" width="320" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Now, I could not tell you for the life of me why I made <i>any</i> of these changes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Were the grey bodies uncomfortable? Did pull or pinch in any way?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I have no idea. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I honestly cannot remember...but if I had to guess I'd say that I simply wanted a black support garment to go with the black fitted gown I was making for 12th Night, 2018. But more on that later...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Pattern: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-<a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/">The Tudor Tailor</a> (book and/or ready-made pattern)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Fabric:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black "Judy" Linen (5.5oz) from <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Hemp/Cotton twill (10.5oz) and Hemp/Cotton "suede" (10.5oz) from <a href="http://www.hemptraders.com/">Hemp Traders</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Muslin for mockup (also from Hemp Traders, but any muslin should do)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Thread & Lacing:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black silk buttonhole thread (for eyelets)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Black cotton thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Narrow black ribbon</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Boning:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-7mm Plastic coated spring steel bones (4) from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=68&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-5mm Synthetic whalebone (about 10 meters) also from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=137&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Other Supplies:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Swedish pattern paper from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sewable-Swedish-Tracing-Paper-Inches/dp/B000PNEWVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383452754&sr=8-1&keywords=swiss+pattern+paper">Amazon</a>. (This stuff is great! You can iron it!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Pattern weights</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Blue washable fabric marker</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Tapered tailor's awl</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-3/4" Bias tape maker</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Eyelet tape </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Small bulldog clips</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-59117559405053845552022-02-03T10:30:00.041-08:002022-10-13T17:12:22.575-07:00Green "Aertsen" Kirtle<p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Well, it's been a hot minute but I finally have an update for this (very neglected) blog!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjQJ3TpiC6hemAL4w6aQuKz5AG7jlc1TO8OS_4b8ai9PkyFQnnX-1pbvhtNOBeFNA1YmDBMNchg7YY4yEedkh2b2KC2nVxe4pmZnfSCyWPXpBjsdokHxMnquv6Ngl0ITAgPgSabMb2_0p3AC6EnCLI-aBJhU8tNXKrGmSM8Y-Q_Q3HA0DjWH5ZnBVSL=s2720" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2720" data-original-width="2074" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjQJ3TpiC6hemAL4w6aQuKz5AG7jlc1TO8OS_4b8ai9PkyFQnnX-1pbvhtNOBeFNA1YmDBMNchg7YY4yEedkh2b2KC2nVxe4pmZnfSCyWPXpBjsdokHxMnquv6Ngl0ITAgPgSabMb2_0p3AC6EnCLI-aBJhU8tNXKrGmSM8Y-Q_Q3HA0DjWH5ZnBVSL=s320" width="244" /></a></div><p>It's been a year (or three) of starts and stops. Despite the radio silence I've actually been working on quite a few slow-burn projects, including two that didn't quite go to plan.</p><p>First, I was in an early-period mood after re-watching the excellent "Tudor Monastery Farm" and managed to source some absolutely <i>lovely</i> wool for a Brueghel inspired outfit...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgJdwV3sYqG8-Y7P39ga3qqSIBgtAECvXk6PR9b7DWpVPhntiI3H0cy3ZXSAub72Cy3XJm2GS5tH7gJMBMT2PbQlj2NDFr9UvWKikoCJ_z1fSnDBYMovFQtxI1DPxBuOJ69vfZCyaUwXBlRVGkfWqWY3O0zqLRvbugS5Rdm__UsNiBy-k40nGhHHcxg=s632" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgJdwV3sYqG8-Y7P39ga3qqSIBgtAECvXk6PR9b7DWpVPhntiI3H0cy3ZXSAub72Cy3XJm2GS5tH7gJMBMT2PbQlj2NDFr9UvWKikoCJ_z1fSnDBYMovFQtxI1DPxBuOJ69vfZCyaUwXBlRVGkfWqWY3O0zqLRvbugS5Rdm__UsNiBy-k40nGhHHcxg=s320" width="253" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgH7PYFEIyQQTd0H6tHx3syvybHuIfjKesuy2WTK2T2tbtzCWXbYnkmzSI9o-22ZjjH8fwDsRUVENLRq1s5MNfgVoju1G8AzL5TCZq_y6WuGpm3gcWVJtInSJg2tlb0XuNrSgbFTkBa4FFH5_GIG15NTZxbQ3SFV2j8dadEcZPoKvU_n8Wk7neTCQFA=s505" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="505" data-original-width="295" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgH7PYFEIyQQTd0H6tHx3syvybHuIfjKesuy2WTK2T2tbtzCWXbYnkmzSI9o-22ZjjH8fwDsRUVENLRq1s5MNfgVoju1G8AzL5TCZq_y6WuGpm3gcWVJtInSJg2tlb0XuNrSgbFTkBa4FFH5_GIG15NTZxbQ3SFV2j8dadEcZPoKvU_n8Wk7neTCQFA=s320" width="187" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiQTRR2xemUVma37k-PXQJWKOWAFSabvZV9yIQogzmb-ps7lUrawQXcAm0BUyLh-7Vn1-LNVHWwIjBvLzaDXQm9uNK9eD3eG13ndFSLdu753CBMhEDfgq8y37LgGc4E2VPh3eh77R6eD_tFSNeKwo408ojOKnG0N03jiFjWiMlDnrY2D7PY-j5jFCNi=s2205" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2205" data-original-width="1468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiQTRR2xemUVma37k-PXQJWKOWAFSabvZV9yIQogzmb-ps7lUrawQXcAm0BUyLh-7Vn1-LNVHWwIjBvLzaDXQm9uNK9eD3eG13ndFSLdu753CBMhEDfgq8y37LgGc4E2VPh3eh77R6eD_tFSNeKwo408ojOKnG0N03jiFjWiMlDnrY2D7PY-j5jFCNi=s320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjsPhBnoieDa7BndpzchBO7uXzkA6pHX7Fpf9noNRsFJdnnquB5gvm7xNq5200tYzxQPpP5JUzXRR1wdsNyORXgdkxiULy_L1-aa2cJXGSU3TlOVMYojJBr_y47aErqX1AGRi856UdKfYOx-qROuERpPtb4V1y4zgMZq4RUOQmOGQLcbVySN6O1vJFB=s4030" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2415" data-original-width="4030" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjsPhBnoieDa7BndpzchBO7uXzkA6pHX7Fpf9noNRsFJdnnquB5gvm7xNq5200tYzxQPpP5JUzXRR1wdsNyORXgdkxiULy_L1-aa2cJXGSU3TlOVMYojJBr_y47aErqX1AGRi856UdKfYOx-qROuERpPtb4V1y4zgMZq4RUOQmOGQLcbVySN6O1vJFB=s320" width="320" /></a></div><p>But shortly after I started patterning, Samantha Bullat, of the Couture Courtesan, posted her <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRSSZL1LHAU&t=85s">AMAZING recreation</a> of the same gown (seriously, go watch the video if you haven't. It's fantastic)</p><div style="text-align: left;">Now, that's not a comparison I'm eager to invite.<br />Having said that, I spent <i>WAY</i> too much on fabric to abandon the idea completely so I will definitely be coming back to it at some point the future...but for now I decided to switch gears and shift focus to another outfit which --at the time-- I'd been planning for about 2 years: Lucas de Heere's market woman. </div><div style="text-align: left;">(which was suddenly <i>very</i> pandemic/PPE appropriate)</div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg2Iq0IdbabiUkef_uUKJ0DhtqtBOUhdZI42MAx0kEJNOoxvnh1H9Fb7yfTNb6PE2B5fNeIvRZo1dCYapd9WtcDJ6mSHV4ugDURBEOeQXVupDY5g7haiQ8RN0bxEPf_dcslV_Fp9kPDYv8LC5Ao9KZ1vGUcV4rNYodPHn5E-nRg6nf7yAnl_MlS9EOl=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="962" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg2Iq0IdbabiUkef_uUKJ0DhtqtBOUhdZI42MAx0kEJNOoxvnh1H9Fb7yfTNb6PE2B5fNeIvRZo1dCYapd9WtcDJ6mSHV4ugDURBEOeQXVupDY5g7haiQ8RN0bxEPf_dcslV_Fp9kPDYv8LC5Ao9KZ1vGUcV4rNYodPHn5E-nRg6nf7yAnl_MlS9EOl=s320" width="257" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiVmTQcmQGWFX7SRteiNDPUhh16LW1QA_9X_wdpaeqoMNJcMaDT7UEDNsvqQ-ek3ZykconrlixA2UYzGnIQLrLKAmW6k0PvQeorxxt9L0gMzNZYohh3xonStyrR8_1Oj1oXoYegjKRB0hkVWyE6f3FqX1ZkOnJF2dSoXSuUkAxOpMH8zA_9hZ79asBv=s1690" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1690" data-original-width="1083" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiVmTQcmQGWFX7SRteiNDPUhh16LW1QA_9X_wdpaeqoMNJcMaDT7UEDNsvqQ-ek3ZykconrlixA2UYzGnIQLrLKAmW6k0PvQeorxxt9L0gMzNZYohh3xonStyrR8_1Oj1oXoYegjKRB0hkVWyE6f3FqX1ZkOnJF2dSoXSuUkAxOpMH8zA_9hZ79asBv=s320" width="205" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg9cWA2gFLk_iPdiK-NHZ7xlCpZxB3Yu1TBKh06lJQWFXlN5j1g8pG51YWyJ9WQgV2OLlXE_0hDP0zTT2vVbePBgxTVwZvlfT1zp7GQbtiB1DfDb7pXETupFTI3VZIZP3ZLDEUoG8LoDAjJDFtVxcg_y2es2YkUiePWNeEbUKaOjrsfwSC2VbXMhUjH=s2921" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1855" data-original-width="2921" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg9cWA2gFLk_iPdiK-NHZ7xlCpZxB3Yu1TBKh06lJQWFXlN5j1g8pG51YWyJ9WQgV2OLlXE_0hDP0zTT2vVbePBgxTVwZvlfT1zp7GQbtiB1DfDb7pXETupFTI3VZIZP3ZLDEUoG8LoDAjJDFtVxcg_y2es2YkUiePWNeEbUKaOjrsfwSC2VbXMhUjH=s320" width="320" /></a></p><p>Again, I found some great fabric and --I kid you not-- <i>the day</i> <i>after it arrived</i> the Tudor Tailor ladies posted their <a href="https://www.facebook.com/tudortailor/photos/4122238334520728">stunning interpretation</a> (Though, given the situation in 2020 I suspect more than a few people had the same idea).</p><p>So that one <i>also</i> went on the back burner.</p><p>And with my rolodex of inspiration quickly running low, I finally turned to the painting I'd been wanting to reproduce since the moment I first saw it: Pieter Aertsen's Market Scene (specifically the woman in the green kirtle).</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgo3FRExNMYidrYeoFnHn10PEn4CXGBND_ISZsRpg1LLP-701z4DlevAkMafPF1Gpe4e8xFk1hxIIWKI76Kb8ar11hL3BSkFwtka7L5sqAcVgfUJWZKMlu_TKvofbSYGRkibQX36cLsV3PGzasoD-8LOzMBs40tjhiv5gnsL3uI7mAaRoxDaHDxA6Qp=s960" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgo3FRExNMYidrYeoFnHn10PEn4CXGBND_ISZsRpg1LLP-701z4DlevAkMafPF1Gpe4e8xFk1hxIIWKI76Kb8ar11hL3BSkFwtka7L5sqAcVgfUJWZKMlu_TKvofbSYGRkibQX36cLsV3PGzasoD-8LOzMBs40tjhiv5gnsL3uI7mAaRoxDaHDxA6Qp=w400-h320" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Pieter </span>Aertsen, <i>Market Scene </i>circa 1560-65</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Now, I'm a sucker for green outfits and had been on the lookout for the right wool for at <i>least</i> the last couple of years. I finally found it at Renaissance Fabrics; a lightly brushed olive green twill in a light to medium/light weight. </p><p>And I jumped right in.</p><div style="text-align: left;">To begin with, the painting is rather unclear as to what the front of the kirtle looks like. There seems to be low, white linen partlet which may or may not tie under the arms. Over this a black partlet (possibly with a rounded front and low back) is likely pinned. </div><div style="text-align: left;">But as to the closures and the front of the gown, that remains obscured...at least in the images I was able to find. Unfortunately I was never able to locate a high-res version which may have hinted at more details.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgCE-YeyH1A03OJxc42ji26nOzR4dfZ5PPtVnaFp5DIBcWmanSYwyf2mtkwdvw4ldDh5gujcAxMARCtBPhzGoOa3MG1qI_xhoRRwbWnhWluSM7snjTT8ceJ0kRfG3Cq-YUFS0Mh6I5qeyJPBoninpF4ibCr5PC1Dsqls7CdaMb1YZCu98ZFuuNsUQQM=s1758" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1758" data-original-width="1526" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgCE-YeyH1A03OJxc42ji26nOzR4dfZ5PPtVnaFp5DIBcWmanSYwyf2mtkwdvw4ldDh5gujcAxMARCtBPhzGoOa3MG1qI_xhoRRwbWnhWluSM7snjTT8ceJ0kRfG3Cq-YUFS0Mh6I5qeyJPBoninpF4ibCr5PC1Dsqls7CdaMb1YZCu98ZFuuNsUQQM=s320" width="278" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Many of Aertsen's other market and kitchen scenes feature women with wide lacing kirtles and (often) a contrasting stomacher.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh4430ocbuXkphon_sxEP8pfdnkP2LvmNyQNNHCSjOFPZoSGCDVu0gSgWe9OgzxuTMEUQwh5Bq_G7Con8S7cc3UditEOQsp8ovCSTMFKhqetwS4DjQIFVsIYjYp6GD_TbA5wvLdItcC0fYx_SBWVoCoGW3r8kJudPx-rQ2GZj7vA-5syrh3GXVKpYEH=s1164" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1164" data-original-width="730" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh4430ocbuXkphon_sxEP8pfdnkP2LvmNyQNNHCSjOFPZoSGCDVu0gSgWe9OgzxuTMEUQwh5Bq_G7Con8S7cc3UditEOQsp8ovCSTMFKhqetwS4DjQIFVsIYjYp6GD_TbA5wvLdItcC0fYx_SBWVoCoGW3r8kJudPx-rQ2GZj7vA-5syrh3GXVKpYEH=s320" width="201" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEisNII0qb-gup2WOtSJo3V1dxD9N-Jrsn-rKpWceMfx2eezgnf4PsvpuBLNm7YHxiDiGTY-zvjqVLf_OPOXyEksbh5SYx5xibTIYWqo0h5zwpMssC42MnbfIgEPJYB_KSqfRq4zYlr5UO0nV4bcgzrJPkMh7SlCtgkzVqMyqPIm07vqXtHL-kzTVz8f=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="838" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEisNII0qb-gup2WOtSJo3V1dxD9N-Jrsn-rKpWceMfx2eezgnf4PsvpuBLNm7YHxiDiGTY-zvjqVLf_OPOXyEksbh5SYx5xibTIYWqo0h5zwpMssC42MnbfIgEPJYB_KSqfRq4zYlr5UO0nV4bcgzrJPkMh7SlCtgkzVqMyqPIm07vqXtHL-kzTVz8f=s320" width="223" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg9LeMBwVhD5on69ao-7KmdRQ9i745dz9gBRGmHxCOvu00HJw4RmeN_MWH7EjM0RxVScAsJ4hbjPn8kdoOX4N4MbJtgwSVXIs4vEusGETjqkFwo1COPBq2bw2FG5AUPE5YDOSpBdHb0vY-OFH9nqGtQxngpiEJclPHH6884-19lJHJMaL7AloO3midU=s736" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="736" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg9LeMBwVhD5on69ao-7KmdRQ9i745dz9gBRGmHxCOvu00HJw4RmeN_MWH7EjM0RxVScAsJ4hbjPn8kdoOX4N4MbJtgwSVXIs4vEusGETjqkFwo1COPBq2bw2FG5AUPE5YDOSpBdHb0vY-OFH9nqGtQxngpiEJclPHH6884-19lJHJMaL7AloO3midU=s320" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">However, this was a road I didn't really want to go down.</div><div style="text-align: left;">A large part of what attracted me to this image in the first place was the green kirtle and red sleeves; complimentary colours that literally could not be better suited to each other. Combined with the brown apron and stark black and white of the partlets, the outfit seemed very visually balanced and I didn't want to expand the palette any further.</div><div style="text-align: left;">So instead I decided to take a cue from the woman in the back of the painting. She's wearing a simple tawny kirtle which laces at the front. It has a slight gap but no stomacher.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgTDTtjxhGOl0YqpT35wVdKZ-8iDQmvV1Z2m6JWr5ZZ_P46vqySPW12tQnXWY8rqkqJTU7d2VpcdiMYTVaUDHcKwaZKYM-ckplINkXCMAqUylpPXycasdnpuSr-kstZp_IQ5pVvgd54UEbLpNMGClSgzZS6HNQbJRFatA0dxNip8E9KZrZCO1I0PgkD=s1905" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1905" data-original-width="1519" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgTDTtjxhGOl0YqpT35wVdKZ-8iDQmvV1Z2m6JWr5ZZ_P46vqySPW12tQnXWY8rqkqJTU7d2VpcdiMYTVaUDHcKwaZKYM-ckplINkXCMAqUylpPXycasdnpuSr-kstZp_IQ5pVvgd54UEbLpNMGClSgzZS6HNQbJRFatA0dxNip8E9KZrZCO1I0PgkD=s320" width="255" /></a></div><p>And let's be honest, it was also a style of kirtle I'd made previously and knew I could knock out relatively quickly...</p><div style="text-align: left;">Unfortunately, I was in such a rush to finish that I don't really have any process pictures <i>at all. </i> It's basically the same pattern as my <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2018/10/blue-trevelyon-gown.html">blue Trevelyon gown</a> but with the sleeves left off.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5jBz7shVZIgLHioYGUSqDd5wi5hW6AYf_mC1PXALk9gkDJPxjo0TpAepC2FRG_eaiPJUChuIuxidBsM4CNy2ZcKbHQYMIBupGaWUL5Ojtt0zzbSn7WiGFKQ_woQScbxhiEt72Jh3FmygL_gz7Y3iC7Z6Z24kGGukmHW8nZ4Jryem2tmZPV9yHDEN/s2318/6FADB36E-1C13-44CC-B305-05C5C77FB4FD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1523" data-original-width="2318" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5jBz7shVZIgLHioYGUSqDd5wi5hW6AYf_mC1PXALk9gkDJPxjo0TpAepC2FRG_eaiPJUChuIuxidBsM4CNy2ZcKbHQYMIBupGaWUL5Ojtt0zzbSn7WiGFKQ_woQScbxhiEt72Jh3FmygL_gz7Y3iC7Z6Z24kGGukmHW8nZ4Jryem2tmZPV9yHDEN/s320/6FADB36E-1C13-44CC-B305-05C5C77FB4FD.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Like the Trevelyon gown, the front is boned with spring steal at the lacing edge and synthetic whalebone (intermittently, skipping ever other channel).</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1kHJ5CLECMcu9VcP_DFYTm35rAvVZEjjXRr9zIIRMF14ka11eY-k9kYycNV2mp9OdCNIwYPjMU3cr8b16peB8NJoPHr-y5zvublchrDKdkDmFuE2zmjo4nuSrDYNcv0t3kx1EhgyoYcyoOY8_ytmla4lQbtnsEy18UCVBjmcWN6lGKLu8JVXuIcs/s1982/1E5C4887-8256-42F7-8DD1-8CD2D7BB28FD.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1587" data-original-width="1982" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1kHJ5CLECMcu9VcP_DFYTm35rAvVZEjjXRr9zIIRMF14ka11eY-k9kYycNV2mp9OdCNIwYPjMU3cr8b16peB8NJoPHr-y5zvublchrDKdkDmFuE2zmjo4nuSrDYNcv0t3kx1EhgyoYcyoOY8_ytmla4lQbtnsEy18UCVBjmcWN6lGKLu8JVXuIcs/s320/1E5C4887-8256-42F7-8DD1-8CD2D7BB28FD.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I also shortened the front point and added about 1/2" to either side of the front opening with the intention that it would close completely. But then lockdown (and lockdown snacking) continued and it, well...<i>didn't</i>.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSJyyQBqhKpK2FuIsZ_5PfW1XvFwvEVSRsV_c5zuzXxKOgRGLPaofjxVsGDsyQWtQDfaim33HPvUQH3ZFUzREd9n0NrJZft7bUcuEo2_abnC9Mt_ZxYx55OhaCG0NX7YyLf_0PJjzNvmAZZIviqP0RZj-3W0ZJAOLELHLyMSdZIh6y3bXxuuP3Y1rC/s2220/4C5E22D1-F8E3-4106-840C-810CCEA42763.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1473" data-original-width="2220" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSJyyQBqhKpK2FuIsZ_5PfW1XvFwvEVSRsV_c5zuzXxKOgRGLPaofjxVsGDsyQWtQDfaim33HPvUQH3ZFUzREd9n0NrJZft7bUcuEo2_abnC9Mt_ZxYx55OhaCG0NX7YyLf_0PJjzNvmAZZIviqP0RZj-3W0ZJAOLELHLyMSdZIh6y3bXxuuP3Y1rC/s320/4C5E22D1-F8E3-4106-840C-810CCEA42763.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjqd1Qva5sgBD7AOiHO6YP4WI4YGdecRPNY9JqXZN1Cw-0TMhgkUkEXQ8VLCKrIzRg14N4luDNH1z8J0yiHQiw3GwOpGTWO362VLEFHGWAPhIDyUDI6yyhYb7-V_WB6tKEUOoi5i5ajyHU1MJde6tXbEwa5xLKq4qb2wPjWZGFAEyGDL421A8L8StYl=s2468" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1513" data-original-width="2468" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjqd1Qva5sgBD7AOiHO6YP4WI4YGdecRPNY9JqXZN1Cw-0TMhgkUkEXQ8VLCKrIzRg14N4luDNH1z8J0yiHQiw3GwOpGTWO362VLEFHGWAPhIDyUDI6yyhYb7-V_WB6tKEUOoi5i5ajyHU1MJde6tXbEwa5xLKq4qb2wPjWZGFAEyGDL421A8L8StYl=s320" width="320" /></a></div><p>Oh, well.</p><div style="text-align: left;">You can see that, unlike the blue gown (and many of my other kirtles), this doesn't have hidden internal lacing strips. Instead, the eyelets are worked directly into the kirtle between two boning channels (again, see previous post for rough boning layout).</div><div style="text-align: left;">The eyelets are off-set for spiral lacing.</div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgzVbQKS0PecuujbLBgguj4ew71M8bU-P0YMI_3C_0tV-foZbWMHPY4oBTTozz9E0v_Vwsm4A-69AQ7uFoW35yWAcN7lMlCrneYN078fgHiLmgUx2oZL1lKoroJjoYTHjDWlZVDIf7UB9T1LCHlEqD_O9WPLy8vcd94AnLxUARRhr1wKMs5orqHCDUL=s2882" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2694" data-original-width="2882" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgzVbQKS0PecuujbLBgguj4ew71M8bU-P0YMI_3C_0tV-foZbWMHPY4oBTTozz9E0v_Vwsm4A-69AQ7uFoW35yWAcN7lMlCrneYN078fgHiLmgUx2oZL1lKoroJjoYTHjDWlZVDIf7UB9T1LCHlEqD_O9WPLy8vcd94AnLxUARRhr1wKMs5orqHCDUL=s320" width="320" /></a></p><p>The kirtle is lined in brown linen cannibalized from my first <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2015/05/the-impromptu-greensleeves-kirtle.html">brown kirtle</a> (which sadly did not survive a stint in the washer/dryer...back in the day when I thought you had to completely launder your costumes). As with the Trevelyon gown, the lining of the skirt is free-falling, effectively creating an integral linen underskirt.</p><p>Other accessories include a pair of wool pin-on sleeves:</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEje97jMd91wUUBUIrSB-TUGhLcimL6fhC2_z-hlZnT19Hsa89dMs8kNaYgEGF2AUR7dMN1lJixSxL0A-qI4Ub-fEQaUJ07wl4MnqMLHR-sHSBwh3rv7TgGIz3FrouidJa6E_OFBpA6R9agRid0qe4OiA2WL0qpXLyr9SCjF6NODcXyFhpKb_msjd_Dw=s2980" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2776" data-original-width="2980" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEje97jMd91wUUBUIrSB-TUGhLcimL6fhC2_z-hlZnT19Hsa89dMs8kNaYgEGF2AUR7dMN1lJixSxL0A-qI4Ub-fEQaUJ07wl4MnqMLHR-sHSBwh3rv7TgGIz3FrouidJa6E_OFBpA6R9agRid0qe4OiA2WL0qpXLyr9SCjF6NODcXyFhpKb_msjd_Dw=s320" width="320" /></a></p><div style="text-align: left;">Well, I say <i>pin-on</i>...</div><div style="text-align: left;">In truth I've never had any luck with pins and sleeves (they usually result in stabbing and sore shoulders), so instead I cheated with set of hook and eyes. </div><div style="text-align: left;">The sleeves also have a fold permanently worked into the sleeve head; both to help with the drape over the shoulder and as a theatrical cheat to more closely resemble the folds of the sleeves in the original painting.</div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhSCMVAjGpJdyHYP-KifvgmxORsj9l2XNVF7M05noN1Ia-DCQ1z6xdcJfxVjcJVvB25QMNl0vmBXZE0u9EuoY_hTpxC10TpfdQf9JVDgrHuszs_SdYWMJT8nS4n9EAMKMCueMGSPw-3APdQDHxnBdxfxKYLBl5QXg2Ew4-wVgpfy5oWA7z4KzMo2tqN=s3633" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3633" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhSCMVAjGpJdyHYP-KifvgmxORsj9l2XNVF7M05noN1Ia-DCQ1z6xdcJfxVjcJVvB25QMNl0vmBXZE0u9EuoY_hTpxC10TpfdQf9JVDgrHuszs_SdYWMJT8nS4n9EAMKMCueMGSPw-3APdQDHxnBdxfxKYLBl5QXg2Ew4-wVgpfy5oWA7z4KzMo2tqN=s320" width="266" /></a></p><p>The sleeves are hooked into an eye set behind the shoulder seam (though I added two since I wasn't sure where the sleeve would sit more comfortably).</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgfTDSKmwr5PQe08tOCu9lwnROPRKnkMGZKmrr9IA0lVqSerCljCNasEJ4s1B_qP0PdweB1yGROIuv3R5Q2Ll3nWzoNnBYa40jTyOnhS3ynwIO2x9UEoU8hlNgdAlNf_5g15MMv6qaaI4juS6za5bsxNKYx1kLONQ-pHfgso8C8awYUD5kY28ZlnmIV=s3468" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2583" data-original-width="3468" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgfTDSKmwr5PQe08tOCu9lwnROPRKnkMGZKmrr9IA0lVqSerCljCNasEJ4s1B_qP0PdweB1yGROIuv3R5Q2Ll3nWzoNnBYa40jTyOnhS3ynwIO2x9UEoU8hlNgdAlNf_5g15MMv6qaaI4juS6za5bsxNKYx1kLONQ-pHfgso8C8awYUD5kY28ZlnmIV=s320" width="320" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgtMtQZTgwPzHBimIEsOWkvrZ7uANeyYUST4zH5zvDDpouNPWe1Z85YBXZrAj7XePDkES_NQqxzsbT_Y-wkfxjTkfn_4mPi2rUvflCY2Ws0rqD7ZYkjNg8kPYNRuZBDsXOCbgB2d4hjX4EEugCafVwxU39f8LlGKkJMyeGQGcTp5V95M7ALoSLeSs1j=s3024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2722" data-original-width="3024" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgtMtQZTgwPzHBimIEsOWkvrZ7uANeyYUST4zH5zvDDpouNPWe1Z85YBXZrAj7XePDkES_NQqxzsbT_Y-wkfxjTkfn_4mPi2rUvflCY2Ws0rqD7ZYkjNg8kPYNRuZBDsXOCbgB2d4hjX4EEugCafVwxU39f8LlGKkJMyeGQGcTp5V95M7ALoSLeSs1j=s320" width="320" /></a></p><div style="text-align: left;">Next up is brown linen apron. </div><div style="text-align: left;">It's a 26.5"x 36.5" rectangle, finished on all sides and with the middle 16" whip stitched to a matching 1/4" band.</div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiGXMVaxtpHOKiLgQlECGJwDe0-HSbVZ4iiDyhyiVoKQdXMC4PGmHh6l-_Aq-1KyZ5Ec0MnvYlLJynNVa3YTrT5wOZRMf7wL2JieQXjFEn3EJb9Gy5EoqyuvI8xT44C7py-mn2RxCmaH7j9UPHlT0Ah-Kzx0aq836xB7mLN-Cv7Fp9JXYW5HYWz9d3K=s3610" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2515" data-original-width="3610" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiGXMVaxtpHOKiLgQlECGJwDe0-HSbVZ4iiDyhyiVoKQdXMC4PGmHh6l-_Aq-1KyZ5Ec0MnvYlLJynNVa3YTrT5wOZRMf7wL2JieQXjFEn3EJb9Gy5EoqyuvI8xT44C7py-mn2RxCmaH7j9UPHlT0Ah-Kzx0aq836xB7mLN-Cv7Fp9JXYW5HYWz9d3K=s320" width="320" /></a></p><div style="text-align: left;">Also making an appearance is my trusty white partlet. </div><div style="text-align: left;">As seen in period images, this style of partlet is pinned at the front corners and then ties (attached to the back corners) are wrapped around and tied across the chest. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiABQl8fBNhUb6_-GdWu-em9fG4crOcbLQQwhR31YaGCfrVovhkATTOHtDAzt_L9OEvnMJgatXfisR5vJKPklSI7lClvjEpknJDzwh5gL6fti__1p2eKoHa9b7egzvvL0I1xI1n8SVH0uQLqC_BMzcon5Km2K5U1ZDZPdqee4N1vZ6uk53e7t3Q4A5x=s2048" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1883" data-original-width="2048" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiABQl8fBNhUb6_-GdWu-em9fG4crOcbLQQwhR31YaGCfrVovhkATTOHtDAzt_L9OEvnMJgatXfisR5vJKPklSI7lClvjEpknJDzwh5gL6fti__1p2eKoHa9b7egzvvL0I1xI1n8SVH0uQLqC_BMzcon5Km2K5U1ZDZPdqee4N1vZ6uk53e7t3Q4A5x=s320" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjgpLiAOlMfmKsJyBa41_mgMJtGzLViZvjy3tIaP-VVugGbZHZpwrVuaIhHYRZ4lWvaSAG3ls0UdrRzKyM1mDbylD7QXpSIRSL_ffx3YFl3RrmKFCXZQ-T-nOuTyYJMCNVJsnHnQKdQLzuXUbnVMvN3HGQUAUPJkv4yrumbO43WNFMAcc_LHOS-byK0=s1024" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="929" data-original-width="1024" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjgpLiAOlMfmKsJyBa41_mgMJtGzLViZvjy3tIaP-VVugGbZHZpwrVuaIhHYRZ4lWvaSAG3ls0UdrRzKyM1mDbylD7QXpSIRSL_ffx3YFl3RrmKFCXZQ-T-nOuTyYJMCNVJsnHnQKdQLzuXUbnVMvN3HGQUAUPJkv4yrumbO43WNFMAcc_LHOS-byK0=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joachim Anthonisz Wtewael, circa 1620-25</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div>A small ruff is pinned or basted to the collar of the partlet. </div><div>This ruff is 1" deep with 3/8" sets, but it really should be quite a bit smaller to match the portrait.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhvfXzsm31EfmJOs_DWvLjwmrYlhsTzLMuFVdkv8LjcOdBGxZrkPOlFOZa1A8zaEWmY6FP1N6-H2AK8q6h7I6SaXURmlTjZWKmif17sYtcPsm6u7w8jKvlUme_FD9A1AIAUsks5VQnY05NUygC6yh3LhlIf1lUkb8g90E7qcoxDVLYBzeQt0aFuxms4=s3522" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3522" data-original-width="2678" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhvfXzsm31EfmJOs_DWvLjwmrYlhsTzLMuFVdkv8LjcOdBGxZrkPOlFOZa1A8zaEWmY6FP1N6-H2AK8q6h7I6SaXURmlTjZWKmif17sYtcPsm6u7w8jKvlUme_FD9A1AIAUsks5VQnY05NUygC6yh3LhlIf1lUkb8g90E7qcoxDVLYBzeQt0aFuxms4=s320" width="243" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Next is a black wool partlet lined in white linen. Because I couldn't quite tell what was going in with the over-partlet in the painting I decided to just be lazy and use my old one, despite the fact that the painting<i> definitely</i> doesn't show a partlet that connects under the arms. </div><div>Again, lazy.</div><div>(though technically this partlet is also new-ish since the original suffered a <a href="https://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/04/mistakes-were-made.html">little accident</a>...)</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi8HGtZGRFI5wXs-5b3jjyXdOvP545AiSZ8VDSfvWfXCv-tR_iA1N0AnpGabg1X1L1qQCmN9TvicApdLJKu8nXJW_5kyALTgDy7FU8IMD9M9WMkcbLu2N-h0f7iJFs_GAiG-SsaXy9IDMqXN8GFE4ystSRb8aX4KR2w8VcZQOWkVLNNucFWrDJpD5in=s1600" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1112" data-original-width="1600" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi8HGtZGRFI5wXs-5b3jjyXdOvP545AiSZ8VDSfvWfXCv-tR_iA1N0AnpGabg1X1L1qQCmN9TvicApdLJKu8nXJW_5kyALTgDy7FU8IMD9M9WMkcbLu2N-h0f7iJFs_GAiG-SsaXy9IDMqXN8GFE4ystSRb8aX4KR2w8VcZQOWkVLNNucFWrDJpD5in=s320" width="320" /></a></div><p>Topping it all off is a veil which is just a 20"x24" linen rectangle, worn over a close fitting coif. The front 6-8” (framing the face) is starched. </p><div style="text-align: left;">It’s then folded in half lengthwise and a crease is ironed into the starched section. Then it’s flipped over and pinned to the coif on top of the head and at the ears to push the sides up into a “heart” shape. Then the sides are folded back, under the drape of the veil and pinned behind the head. </div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEimGHUpNHVgzr6JafoRoxXC9G1Kn6kK_i-jcA5KF79s9vFWOGhbgITm71jh332h8QWuREv9ehLfr2iAkwLLB8lDWlB-TVYLFVbrezharyJQQx-f0PSwY7Agg209OA9aTWIGLPmAH8sKfLslV8ecfzkTYDWbxA7eKqRqaWAyoZlpwNPHpmyaU8pISnty=s2048" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1740" data-original-width="2048" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEimGHUpNHVgzr6JafoRoxXC9G1Kn6kK_i-jcA5KF79s9vFWOGhbgITm71jh332h8QWuREv9ehLfr2iAkwLLB8lDWlB-TVYLFVbrezharyJQQx-f0PSwY7Agg209OA9aTWIGLPmAH8sKfLslV8ecfzkTYDWbxA7eKqRqaWAyoZlpwNPHpmyaU8pISnty=s320" width="320" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiYBOI40ckF9sQ9A4fP6wpM8Sxlgifrp1toYlRU-b-ih9Sg3_q1HA37OyilwWi3k6fji6POcu0NaS8kFjn1NyAbKljbjeJdWXWH3JYU_NmLfTU-xLgiMyGlCntIhKUW7iQQ9zZ5G7-ZBvQJHvUFntcArkSxxuz42uPX-5oyHtiY9J1vu17ILrSinLsP=s2048" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiYBOI40ckF9sQ9A4fP6wpM8Sxlgifrp1toYlRU-b-ih9Sg3_q1HA37OyilwWi3k6fji6POcu0NaS8kFjn1NyAbKljbjeJdWXWH3JYU_NmLfTU-xLgiMyGlCntIhKUW7iQQ9zZ5G7-ZBvQJHvUFntcArkSxxuz42uPX-5oyHtiY9J1vu17ILrSinLsP=s320" width="320" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEicTrIgoHJ4ezL-GEeBW1T0LnsxRX_n7Js_i9GaUorCX9XXD2DWc_Ii_6NXOxEnc2sspvEkLhoYQyZoYta528yF1RbEqPqGP9d7jMGEkbaz90xcB-04OOrkX64-ROdbI3deXqcfS2ndyOsZsaZkqENFg6Updc4LOQn5ExWyxoLVMk_LByr7BCohspgJ=s1930" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1930" data-original-width="1628" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEicTrIgoHJ4ezL-GEeBW1T0LnsxRX_n7Js_i9GaUorCX9XXD2DWc_Ii_6NXOxEnc2sspvEkLhoYQyZoYta528yF1RbEqPqGP9d7jMGEkbaz90xcB-04OOrkX64-ROdbI3deXqcfS2ndyOsZsaZkqENFg6Updc4LOQn5ExWyxoLVMk_LByr7BCohspgJ=s320" width="270" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhNGIyhzAYI4hOD_HHBmw9Z8dDTNQFP93W9efj2WeLfo2SYSOvTId36Xj3x1QWeksEhOz1WXirD9UdA99Mby-YibqqXIh4OmtbHeUF8kJ0tcZZEhvTIQte_c-li-0RRmequw6hvCnndRZAbX4MUqcj0B1U2K-65hF_-l_h9SddowEF8PJR1mECYYJ_d=s3023" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3023" data-original-width="1993" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhNGIyhzAYI4hOD_HHBmw9Z8dDTNQFP93W9efj2WeLfo2SYSOvTId36Xj3x1QWeksEhOz1WXirD9UdA99Mby-YibqqXIh4OmtbHeUF8kJ0tcZZEhvTIQte_c-li-0RRmequw6hvCnndRZAbX4MUqcj0B1U2K-65hF_-l_h9SddowEF8PJR1mECYYJ_d=s320" width="211" /></a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgG_NR24DwKtbYkzZZo9YzF20H8SxnXsiECu3esUKKybm4000Jhb2LD6aPjjsPtna9px0Q5oFmaxC2s9ipiYO89teH_W7VmGsBTE0kQlJEzP3nkd7Eu1KbyVDjIDknlDEtAfXLKmt6U2MHuMAvSNfTKLZ1l-Ls8TmyiuXH_N7EsFpfMx2pZxyHrtaHu=s2797" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2797" data-original-width="2142" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgG_NR24DwKtbYkzZZo9YzF20H8SxnXsiECu3esUKKybm4000Jhb2LD6aPjjsPtna9px0Q5oFmaxC2s9ipiYO89teH_W7VmGsBTE0kQlJEzP3nkd7Eu1KbyVDjIDknlDEtAfXLKmt6U2MHuMAvSNfTKLZ1l-Ls8TmyiuXH_N7EsFpfMx2pZxyHrtaHu=s320" width="245" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhnHLJcNSGk9oXjoZMkvLDqFzM9QbywaDyqKJJOAZWD4C9F81cVNZuktcrcNpz45xHEytJ7H6E82RmmncBM84Uvd-qsgWiWaEqU9jceKs9aSH-4urWdz_GmCtztCQ4WmGhqWU5CPpW-p5xw49YHKVhSvsH23EMKBDDCrIaGfi7aRRc8Lu1Uv-MRVJ4V=s2505" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2505" data-original-width="2109" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhnHLJcNSGk9oXjoZMkvLDqFzM9QbywaDyqKJJOAZWD4C9F81cVNZuktcrcNpz45xHEytJ7H6E82RmmncBM84Uvd-qsgWiWaEqU9jceKs9aSH-4urWdz_GmCtztCQ4WmGhqWU5CPpW-p5xw49YHKVhSvsH23EMKBDDCrIaGfi7aRRc8Lu1Uv-MRVJ4V=s320" width="269" /></a></p><div style="text-align: left;">And that's it! </div><div style="text-align: left;">My White Whale is done!</div><div style="text-align: left;">And then it sat on the shelf for months...</div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEggNFwV2VRcEwG3l9uZxDkGz96qkiVd_gJIAHmSlH3y0S0BmhMYbkpbGy1ANoVbcUd_OZaDLFGyFuOKo9S6R1nVLoSgTLCUkBgjyssqbAxMR5zmN0mQ_EMpYyhA4UeRkUueko1b3POTVofpZ7U7Cp_y-IT74Nx8VL-0mAWNUd1FGUiFCFrrtejjLC0e=s1881" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1671" data-original-width="1881" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEggNFwV2VRcEwG3l9uZxDkGz96qkiVd_gJIAHmSlH3y0S0BmhMYbkpbGy1ANoVbcUd_OZaDLFGyFuOKo9S6R1nVLoSgTLCUkBgjyssqbAxMR5zmN0mQ_EMpYyhA4UeRkUueko1b3POTVofpZ7U7Cp_y-IT74Nx8VL-0mAWNUd1FGUiFCFrrtejjLC0e=s320" width="320" /></a></p><p>Unfortunately, I recently moved and so the trusty, neutral cement wall that served as my photo backdrop for so many years is no more!</p><p>And with lockdown restrictions still in place at the time, the only blank wall to be had <i>within</i> my apartment was behind the bedroom door.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjQJ3TpiC6hemAL4w6aQuKz5AG7jlc1TO8OS_4b8ai9PkyFQnnX-1pbvhtNOBeFNA1YmDBMNchg7YY4yEedkh2b2KC2nVxe4pmZnfSCyWPXpBjsdokHxMnquv6Ngl0ITAgPgSabMb2_0p3AC6EnCLI-aBJhU8tNXKrGmSM8Y-Q_Q3HA0DjWH5ZnBVSL=s2720" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2720" data-original-width="2074" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjQJ3TpiC6hemAL4w6aQuKz5AG7jlc1TO8OS_4b8ai9PkyFQnnX-1pbvhtNOBeFNA1YmDBMNchg7YY4yEedkh2b2KC2nVxe4pmZnfSCyWPXpBjsdokHxMnquv6Ngl0ITAgPgSabMb2_0p3AC6EnCLI-aBJhU8tNXKrGmSM8Y-Q_Q3HA0DjWH5ZnBVSL=s320" width="244" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhgDabi2O77fZGz3P3lPSabd85d01EH3G4Al_E45CJ6SxSMYWbitwZCtNm9PS-XFLCO4K_R11yUl05_WdvfeIpwcHhZgpO4Hm6ZNBqumV8ZD0YBvqy1Ti8MSrn8I26T8brSxxs9kRKuIF82LAik7voOhKxbWE81H8JXke_Uo8z-R5-XIKzPuPcl7bgT=s5144" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5144" data-original-width="2917" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhgDabi2O77fZGz3P3lPSabd85d01EH3G4Al_E45CJ6SxSMYWbitwZCtNm9PS-XFLCO4K_R11yUl05_WdvfeIpwcHhZgpO4Hm6ZNBqumV8ZD0YBvqy1Ti8MSrn8I26T8brSxxs9kRKuIF82LAik7voOhKxbWE81H8JXke_Uo8z-R5-XIKzPuPcl7bgT=s320" width="181" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Not bad, all things considered. But something was still missing...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>THE CHICKEN!</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I feel like poultry are central to so many of the images I want to reproduce. So the hunt began. And I have to say, it's actually <i>really</i> difficult to source a convincing chicken...and especially one that has to play dead. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the end I stumbled upon Hansa, a stuffed toy company who makes several very good options, though it took a few tries to find a chicken of the right size and proportions. Consequently I now have quite a few stuffed chickens adorning the background of all my Zoom meeting (Like, <i>way</i> too many. Enough that it causes comment. A lot).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgd8OEVS22prGgonqZtKtBXYqedSkzQztSrO_ylfUoDFmIbAgVHmEZtv1eV4yK2fkP74YpwfZnB6x93yjz1D7KmK9mIyaeIbOqo68GRlU7xKWEbDFi_loVJzdlsQvNbMuI-yRTljLdHuZJPuIyks1v6_zgrY_bFg2TbOacTL420ZOITGTvaFIaUpu2p=s4032" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgd8OEVS22prGgonqZtKtBXYqedSkzQztSrO_ylfUoDFmIbAgVHmEZtv1eV4yK2fkP74YpwfZnB6x93yjz1D7KmK9mIyaeIbOqo68GRlU7xKWEbDFi_loVJzdlsQvNbMuI-yRTljLdHuZJPuIyks1v6_zgrY_bFg2TbOacTL420ZOITGTvaFIaUpu2p=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(No, seriously...this isn't even all of them...)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Fast forward another 10 months. I'm now in possession of a chicken and a makeshift photo backdrop (though ironically, on a sunny day the bounce light from the janky behind-the-door setup was actually way more even and flattering...)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So let's document this thing!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjUhtgQVGLOSIoBRPHrjNRIx8bUl55qv1rGZf1ZEBc0NIpmz5eVBtNy_qf9asnqkvdy11K2GarGnp5cGS0_28jJtZoGOd8q3ZjhVoGTU28uBQliOz9A0JD14evugGtSC1Ifh7eY-yHhjKry40joJlAWi4tTvg8YMi8Vf-15-80GYGLtd-4LLUREZvoj=s5532" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5532" data-original-width="3568" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjUhtgQVGLOSIoBRPHrjNRIx8bUl55qv1rGZf1ZEBc0NIpmz5eVBtNy_qf9asnqkvdy11K2GarGnp5cGS0_28jJtZoGOd8q3ZjhVoGTU28uBQliOz9A0JD14evugGtSC1Ifh7eY-yHhjKry40joJlAWi4tTvg8YMi8Vf-15-80GYGLtd-4LLUREZvoj=w258-h400" width="258" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEig4YWcl6pKUXHwJz8nShwF7Zi9VqxOFV0J2s2g4gZWesJOTChmiKzv0JML-OfNgtUmZdpgmMjAARF5cqAptZ9N9dAJEkl0pzl-g6uUDmArdLG0TVm6vk6f7RFWyD8Q_SBIYCYBURuMHWtqjwhFtsjPIVFNWYiI4SzdhxpMlR87EIiED-taFurtCQBM=s5057" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5057" data-original-width="3534" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEig4YWcl6pKUXHwJz8nShwF7Zi9VqxOFV0J2s2g4gZWesJOTChmiKzv0JML-OfNgtUmZdpgmMjAARF5cqAptZ9N9dAJEkl0pzl-g6uUDmArdLG0TVm6vk6f7RFWyD8Q_SBIYCYBURuMHWtqjwhFtsjPIVFNWYiI4SzdhxpMlR87EIiED-taFurtCQBM=w280-h400" width="280" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi4RcwKEPMhBamn5SN-zaQaLh6FQy__3_yjwj2R6OFgmGydyZOQj79hqwHVCBTaXhOZkpSdYGCAI2-RwWh1jj4qsyuu3qQKQIyiR0pxxlW4BSS6l0Yh_S8I8s9dAxsAwLCmALm6XYT1B_iLY_0FAfpv6jdi4xXDtAZ_RNNFmCqy2r9qsyH5XlIILFsu=s5610" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5610" data-original-width="3405" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi4RcwKEPMhBamn5SN-zaQaLh6FQy__3_yjwj2R6OFgmGydyZOQj79hqwHVCBTaXhOZkpSdYGCAI2-RwWh1jj4qsyuu3qQKQIyiR0pxxlW4BSS6l0Yh_S8I8s9dAxsAwLCmALm6XYT1B_iLY_0FAfpv6jdi4xXDtAZ_RNNFmCqy2r9qsyH5XlIILFsu=w242-h400" width="242" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhyLl3F91FvoDmXFeAuKwtl4L8Qh5ncXUEKOYHVrMo6qfQ4ws7IxjppA5LvzqZnkDI7DSYyiVM98ypzEde_ScUkK0tcmHuavMlpmY4hMwn0jCc9hjuYKJu1mJ-4fxoescJct9U64PS3BKZQe1_8hxfRTx7UOYgRNWSr9zuYq6D7RT-1QIl-rt1joIvS=s5601" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5601" data-original-width="3370" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhyLl3F91FvoDmXFeAuKwtl4L8Qh5ncXUEKOYHVrMo6qfQ4ws7IxjppA5LvzqZnkDI7DSYyiVM98ypzEde_ScUkK0tcmHuavMlpmY4hMwn0jCc9hjuYKJu1mJ-4fxoescJct9U64PS3BKZQe1_8hxfRTx7UOYgRNWSr9zuYq6D7RT-1QIl-rt1joIvS=w241-h400" width="241" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhffXmQKnkpQui6uuJJCvcjyfoOn9jfW-ahdznjpR5vuhtBLpXXLBIEuiAooCBJKPYpJyNXdkOviojjeT7-2mjw5T_vrrzTQjO4NJuyWTromWU-bWgdipkAtKVIXiR-7Fhvr0NAX7pa93OJOA9NLRSN43y_o91RNKpqOcHG9Zdqg6Ny-BklN_qpwkPL=s5760" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5760" data-original-width="3424" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhffXmQKnkpQui6uuJJCvcjyfoOn9jfW-ahdznjpR5vuhtBLpXXLBIEuiAooCBJKPYpJyNXdkOviojjeT7-2mjw5T_vrrzTQjO4NJuyWTromWU-bWgdipkAtKVIXiR-7Fhvr0NAX7pa93OJOA9NLRSN43y_o91RNKpqOcHG9Zdqg6Ny-BklN_qpwkPL=w238-h400" width="238" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPx6lCUABcl8O80V1RKycTcTDp-SO7JL33x4CaDGpNaZ59V87Ux6rPxXAX0gTExbKs_kDSUM_0E1P0X13GnfXa-9DTA9xDvb9qqWvQGV0dNpaY-8DQpo-4D3RjL5kD-EylcQVzP6MlpCGId-6-Et0GyWw9i5704uTP57Dd78KdixGGh2Po8WYDmHYz=s5760" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5760" data-original-width="3324" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPx6lCUABcl8O80V1RKycTcTDp-SO7JL33x4CaDGpNaZ59V87Ux6rPxXAX0gTExbKs_kDSUM_0E1P0X13GnfXa-9DTA9xDvb9qqWvQGV0dNpaY-8DQpo-4D3RjL5kD-EylcQVzP6MlpCGId-6-Et0GyWw9i5704uTP57Dd78KdixGGh2Po8WYDmHYz=w231-h400" width="231" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjlPS-uQhuYwdhtU3x5-Rvos40K1kaOtM97YlK22qxO0NP759wnEYv9D9YXjT1Rnr4RnJ5mlR7TY--_JmdhqUvqU1B9Z2oeF2TxJNd1QuSciF3ewxc7J3KCZC0g-RGTJ7riUJDJaFDjkXmICQhd8cQSBHnqyxycPU4syt_c9fniMrrEBk8aFyYmIDP7=s5418" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5418" data-original-width="3127" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjlPS-uQhuYwdhtU3x5-Rvos40K1kaOtM97YlK22qxO0NP759wnEYv9D9YXjT1Rnr4RnJ5mlR7TY--_JmdhqUvqU1B9Z2oeF2TxJNd1QuSciF3ewxc7J3KCZC0g-RGTJ7riUJDJaFDjkXmICQhd8cQSBHnqyxycPU4syt_c9fniMrrEBk8aFyYmIDP7=w231-h400" width="231" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhmcpTF2F8SPhogL-D2QrGR_RYz-jkMxkd-G_atgn3z-xJ1gVNF31ROO_UcA2zPUL2m3vQgrc768tDHQLM_Y1Qvc9GMFEyq9KM-rTTgVviMuvKyAx5f7uxWDVZtjtnJ9fREVn0hXwBY49QE7Y_VDxI1TwuKVu4jTR0muPjs0GHjHBBl41S42XbZkAtZ=s5442" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5442" data-original-width="3235" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhmcpTF2F8SPhogL-D2QrGR_RYz-jkMxkd-G_atgn3z-xJ1gVNF31ROO_UcA2zPUL2m3vQgrc768tDHQLM_Y1Qvc9GMFEyq9KM-rTTgVviMuvKyAx5f7uxWDVZtjtnJ9fREVn0hXwBY49QE7Y_VDxI1TwuKVu4jTR0muPjs0GHjHBBl41S42XbZkAtZ=w238-h400" width="238" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And finally, the obligatory side by side (colour adjusted to more closely match the original).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjlwyXokF0R7e1g81OX4DqiF-vKCR4hZ4u3IjYk5813b_og4uiwmTTlDGee3vT8qk6obDKb5YMxOWbloY2tG_7wi4iOC-fgM82R-38VtQLRSK4yPEhZ_zl6zvzbEnBpKq4IYDrh5FD-XN6WSRcQ0CwX_YXtEhZ47kO4BR-bJ0BYccPBzX4CuW_I-vvk=s1000" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1000" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjlwyXokF0R7e1g81OX4DqiF-vKCR4hZ4u3IjYk5813b_og4uiwmTTlDGee3vT8qk6obDKb5YMxOWbloY2tG_7wi4iOC-fgM82R-38VtQLRSK4yPEhZ_zl6zvzbEnBpKq4IYDrh5FD-XN6WSRcQ0CwX_YXtEhZ47kO4BR-bJ0BYccPBzX4CuW_I-vvk=w400-h308" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And that's it for this one!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Still a couple tweaks I need to make. The kirtle is a tad long, especially in flat shoes, so I might have to take it up a couple of inches. I also set the veil a little too "heart-shaped" and so will pin it closer to the head in future.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But all in all, very happy with how it turned out!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now, I've got quite the backlog of half-finished costumes to work through, so with any luck it won't be another three years before I post another update...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">***</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Pattern: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-<a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/">The Tudor Tailor</a> (book and/or ready-made pattern)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Fabric:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Green wool flannel from <a href="https://www.renaissancefabrics.net/">Renaissance Fabrics</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Brown "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Red "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Red worsted wool from the Historical Costuming Fabric & Trim Buy/Sell (Facebook Group)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Hemp/cotton muslin for interlining (10.5) from <a href="http://www.hemptraders.com/">Hemp Traders</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Muslin for mockup (also from Hemp Traders, but any muslin should do)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Trim and Notions:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Linen tape (1/4") for lacing from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Thread:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Green silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Brown silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Red silk thread</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-White cotton thread (silk finish) for veil</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Boning:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-7mm Plastic coated spring steel bones (4) from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=68&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-5mm Synthetic whalebone also from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=137&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Other Supplies:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Swedish pattern paper from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sewable-Swedish-Tracing-Paper-Inches/dp/B000PNEWVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383452754&sr=8-1&keywords=swiss+pattern+paper">Amazon</a>. (This stuff is great! You can iron it!)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-Pattern weights</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-78448220617435591472019-07-07T21:08:00.001-07:002020-04-05T11:06:03.867-07:00Rust Waistcoat<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
This waistcoat has been on my to do list for a long time...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEGEWtG_YkF9Zn_1K-YvIOZkxhZDDiTleTMtI5bjtOhKgtHnS6cGqbmDP1Cq9Cs1kM7XfaTDz3HyBahU9i0rVuBYTMntvOlkjZUwUr2-JV2lJj0VvpaEttvl0Sp3574bowyj1qFrhQgwY/s1600/market+compare+copy.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1190" height="343" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEGEWtG_YkF9Zn_1K-YvIOZkxhZDDiTleTMtI5bjtOhKgtHnS6cGqbmDP1Cq9Cs1kM7XfaTDz3HyBahU9i0rVuBYTMntvOlkjZUwUr2-JV2lJj0VvpaEttvl0Sp3574bowyj1qFrhQgwY/s400/market+compare+copy.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
...and it still is.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Kinda.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I originally intended this as a quick project, using the exact pattern and construction method as my trusty old <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2014/04/late-period-blue-wool-wasitcoatjacket.html">blue waistcoat</a>. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The only thing I tweaked was the size of the godets. In addition to gaining a bit of weight, my skirts are narrower and less full than the ones I used to make, which means my waist to hip ratio isn't as large as it used to be. As a result I don't need as much of a flare in the waistcoat and wanted to reduce the overall circumference of the bottom edge. However, I did the math wrong and the godet at the back was too small, resulting in some creasing and pulling at the waist.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I also somehow managed to put the wings in the wrong way, which is a bit of an embarrassing mistake and definitely the biggest one I've made on any of my recent projects.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivl2hWBi-aX-mAZKmp4ZaUh3h5FuAvd5Os5tdD1qzFK9wqipVi5kzbccbc0dkTaL9uYklN43kC2P6upPM9Ch9AC2FSNiTwTn7O8fep4nAE1WezR3HDVBFGvPA60Eu5vswTyi6e-kQdLlU/s1600/2601B97E-91D7-4F36-BB22-8622CBF2964A.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="976" data-original-width="1600" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivl2hWBi-aX-mAZKmp4ZaUh3h5FuAvd5Os5tdD1qzFK9wqipVi5kzbccbc0dkTaL9uYklN43kC2P6upPM9Ch9AC2FSNiTwTn7O8fep4nAE1WezR3HDVBFGvPA60Eu5vswTyi6e-kQdLlU/s320/2601B97E-91D7-4F36-BB22-8622CBF2964A.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The wool was also not as high quality as I usually like. It doesn't take pinning very well and so I really struggled with getting the front closure to look correct (and it wrinkles more than I'd like).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On top of that I realized that the latest research indicates that this style of garment shouldn't really have godets at all...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So long story short, the project didn’t quite go according to plan and I'm planning on making this waistcoat again, without godets and with the lacing front seen in the inspiration image. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgwwdYX4-qAa7DwhHyvlbxQtZx4TXRPTEmZG-08BRBoapqsWkbp8zadXuv_84wBdIrrNG6NBwPU5Z5DVIGNwBdH-7NLAdzpzs4BXdedd_fZnhn-hzWyaG8dJXpITD5aebYn9saPJ3guVE/s1600/1154px-The_fish-market%252C_by_Jacob_Gerritsz_Cuyp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1154" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgwwdYX4-qAa7DwhHyvlbxQtZx4TXRPTEmZG-08BRBoapqsWkbp8zadXuv_84wBdIrrNG6NBwPU5Z5DVIGNwBdH-7NLAdzpzs4BXdedd_fZnhn-hzWyaG8dJXpITD5aebYn9saPJ3guVE/s400/1154px-The_fish-market%252C_by_Jacob_Gerritsz_Cuyp.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The Fish Market" Jacob Gerritsz Cuyp, 1627</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have plenty of wool left over, and though it may not be the best quality it really is a great match colour-wise. I'd been search for ages to find the right rust wool (not too red, not too orange) and really lucked out on both that and the skirt.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, superficially at least, I think this outfit is a success! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGX2XCSs0nsiBo2rZ9AjoIGk-vdch9_F60cBr5tiK7jrpW-xP-MW-RqmoaOKagDR7TsbV6qM-GsfdaW2wq5bULDNc5-XpNOAT664DugeHf54CDrdt8YlMijNw7L1RQsWLEImFPVo5Azps/s1600/market1+copyA.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="930" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGX2XCSs0nsiBo2rZ9AjoIGk-vdch9_F60cBr5tiK7jrpW-xP-MW-RqmoaOKagDR7TsbV6qM-GsfdaW2wq5bULDNc5-XpNOAT664DugeHf54CDrdt8YlMijNw7L1RQsWLEImFPVo5Azps/s400/market1+copyA.jpeg" width="232" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ec3l4AlZ7n9cHcBYuamn2jYHj0a0bggRX9k-yuXWUmwMTcm0dA28OT1yyr_AWBtA3DTYj-6zsxz4I4FiQuY3V4BW6-SazFJUaGZB5hnFJTYf9lfneqmIHbMwT9TclhHqHoMNNWNfnBo/s1600/market2+copyB.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="939" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ec3l4AlZ7n9cHcBYuamn2jYHj0a0bggRX9k-yuXWUmwMTcm0dA28OT1yyr_AWBtA3DTYj-6zsxz4I4FiQuY3V4BW6-SazFJUaGZB5hnFJTYf9lfneqmIHbMwT9TclhHqHoMNNWNfnBo/s400/market2+copyB.jpeg" width="233" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih0le0CEC2Li8aNyyqUMHmNhgkfztVXepGu1g8OTtw4en8yT0_BtK9xM1gBUEwnC0o99OQX_FMk15OzXuHOTQnMYO_8g_kCgmvUkxMWSOYAsGK-XdSoJWFZ1a1uiM29uzz_zFphAEzEow/s1600/market3+copy.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="929" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih0le0CEC2Li8aNyyqUMHmNhgkfztVXepGu1g8OTtw4en8yT0_BtK9xM1gBUEwnC0o99OQX_FMk15OzXuHOTQnMYO_8g_kCgmvUkxMWSOYAsGK-XdSoJWFZ1a1uiM29uzz_zFphAEzEow/s400/market3+copy.jpeg" width="231" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYA02qiwEi9STs-Si4CXl13UqeRHjS-DGZr3uCPpC0NjLfcG0W5rjKjekq2iI9IAF-6vRG3CKdRDtLe9odjz6nwsPe3QpeRJFUjiHCAYt_AtE6fO9ZS_d7dxpKRmbCuWLdqsf6jvMiTaw/s1600/market4+copy.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="993" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYA02qiwEi9STs-Si4CXl13UqeRHjS-DGZr3uCPpC0NjLfcG0W5rjKjekq2iI9IAF-6vRG3CKdRDtLe9odjz6nwsPe3QpeRJFUjiHCAYt_AtE6fO9ZS_d7dxpKRmbCuWLdqsf6jvMiTaw/s400/market4+copy.jpeg" width="247" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
But where I think this outfit really shines is in the way it can be re-styled for a totally different look! (Which is why waistcoats will always be my first love...)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqwezK4cuc5bogceRGIm9HBzZqYIUtqEnig0g27F-jUwtDgK_FQ-dvnNns1tvbE06Y4mo3FQwStLSQ2aX1n1oucuZv-DPIbKVfJ33ltVlCEOnZ-unGoCTGQzeq13g_Wdoj2slFZCH7L3U/s1600/broom1B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="906" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqwezK4cuc5bogceRGIm9HBzZqYIUtqEnig0g27F-jUwtDgK_FQ-dvnNns1tvbE06Y4mo3FQwStLSQ2aX1n1oucuZv-DPIbKVfJ33ltVlCEOnZ-unGoCTGQzeq13g_Wdoj2slFZCH7L3U/s400/broom1B.jpg" width="226" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOSNGI2DFgRY0v7Xxx69nPWdUsIGQK06NBAzBgI_InuJAa40jLou7QMhwsUXEKZHTt8PDHIGr-eEvTirtA4EWcp8F8lrgCW9LAaatItnuukJE5HWfB2jNKHSv0cY8BeJSzcnoR2u6D6XE/s1600/broom2+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="887" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOSNGI2DFgRY0v7Xxx69nPWdUsIGQK06NBAzBgI_InuJAa40jLou7QMhwsUXEKZHTt8PDHIGr-eEvTirtA4EWcp8F8lrgCW9LAaatItnuukJE5HWfB2jNKHSv0cY8BeJSzcnoR2u6D6XE/s400/broom2+copy.jpg" width="221" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmVDXNNCHrGtDxtjV1-HdIsdsKUVhjurqOVjJBWujFR6f9O_lyfbXsnby0cqfbkCv7UPYEm5SyDEdGdA_P9rTxlD4Jf-arYXOC36QqnMI4TYHnLcwOeV2yjikqSchjZuwb7ixymibOe8U/s1600/broom3+copyA.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="889" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmVDXNNCHrGtDxtjV1-HdIsdsKUVhjurqOVjJBWujFR6f9O_lyfbXsnby0cqfbkCv7UPYEm5SyDEdGdA_P9rTxlD4Jf-arYXOC36QqnMI4TYHnLcwOeV2yjikqSchjZuwb7ixymibOe8U/s400/broom3+copyA.jpeg" width="221" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
***</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
<u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
<u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Accessories</span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
Blackwork coif by <a href="http://www.trulyhats.net/">Truly Hats</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
Wool flat cap by <a href="https://www.sallypointer.com/">Sally Pointer</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
Leather belt and purse by <a href="https://www.karlrobinson.co.uk/">Karl Robinson</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
<u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
Pattern: </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
- <a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/">The Tudor Tailor</a> (book and/or ready-made pattern)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Seventeenth-Century-Womens-Dress-Patterns-Book/dp/1851776311/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_y">17th Century Women's Dress Patterns Book 1</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
Fabric:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-Rust wool from <a href="https://thefabricmarket.com/">The Fabric Market</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-Green Herringbone wool from <a href="http://WM Booth Draper">Mood Fabrics</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-Cream "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/" style="font-family: -webkit-standard;">WM Booth Draper</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
Thread:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-Rust Cotton thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-Beige cotton thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-Black cotton thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
Other Supplies:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-Swedish pattern paper from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sewable-Swedish-Tracing-Paper-Inches/dp/B000PNEWVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383452754&sr=8-1&keywords=swiss+pattern+paper">Amazon</a>. (This stuff is great! You can iron it!)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-Pattern weights</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
-3/4" Bias tape maker</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">
<br /></div>
Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-75778819377811940522018-10-27T12:23:00.007-07:002022-02-02T20:22:24.141-08:00Blue "Trevelyon" Gown<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
I'm not exactly sure what this garment is meant to be...<br />
A gown? A kirtle?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYkv2TTQwE2hSu5vTHCBBCGFWr13AjcE0Z4EmoYclImz2p9v72YFvRBvud5fC9BCTkSdveMe2aQ6AVrDm4CI4BTU6Y8C3wq6ClQ9AjJvzlwiuwGmMyIuRBpWcL2CDn4kco5qn9GyiIdiw/s1600/Blue_01b+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="961" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYkv2TTQwE2hSu5vTHCBBCGFWr13AjcE0Z4EmoYclImz2p9v72YFvRBvud5fC9BCTkSdveMe2aQ6AVrDm4CI4BTU6Y8C3wq6ClQ9AjJvzlwiuwGmMyIuRBpWcL2CDn4kco5qn9GyiIdiw/s400/Blue_01b+copy.jpeg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi24Ub3nkQkMTl85ciHvNSG1iZHY5kX4IiiRFU0fU48uMraGiJx1ePK1O11sEPa0PXijF4TU3-APYawMz3iHkHSUB0tCB3wDAnQn7py_pLm3_Qa8SDPVSFFHTftJcRNEWWFXnjl0grU-6E/s1600/Blue_04+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="894" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi24Ub3nkQkMTl85ciHvNSG1iZHY5kX4IiiRFU0fU48uMraGiJx1ePK1O11sEPa0PXijF4TU3-APYawMz3iHkHSUB0tCB3wDAnQn7py_pLm3_Qa8SDPVSFFHTftJcRNEWWFXnjl0grU-6E/s400/Blue_04+copy.jpeg" width="222" /></a></div>
<br />
The inspiration came from the Trevelyon Miscellany of 1608, a collection of images appropriated and later redrawn and coloured by Thomas Trevelyon. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN1u9dRd6SrgzrrbT1UlvkAy5XeSFqAqtMd4zlmWSm2U3aO3TfL4tpPuQhLJU1i-cdF5dG50a_uhk0F8EO1lhlcrUVDFzTsZ1YGIsyxcT-v0dnNGYiSU99fi8qJSOPoUdNPVNWPKxgp4c/s1600/Trevelyon.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="913" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN1u9dRd6SrgzrrbT1UlvkAy5XeSFqAqtMd4zlmWSm2U3aO3TfL4tpPuQhLJU1i-cdF5dG50a_uhk0F8EO1lhlcrUVDFzTsZ1YGIsyxcT-v0dnNGYiSU99fi8qJSOPoUdNPVNWPKxgp4c/s320/Trevelyon.jpg" width="197" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimXFGjRNf4v6Q7EgIv0a8xBVzpNUI5bw09wyCt-s-9XCbnnE6dHNN795_58qx3GAxB88jJohJXnrT09kZEhxNzOef-dy4sBuXSelO9qbBePu67hIoDj4uy5QUCeGOmPhd8iM-6Re9IovU/s1600/t2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="601" data-original-width="438" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimXFGjRNf4v6Q7EgIv0a8xBVzpNUI5bw09wyCt-s-9XCbnnE6dHNN795_58qx3GAxB88jJohJXnrT09kZEhxNzOef-dy4sBuXSelO9qbBePu67hIoDj4uy5QUCeGOmPhd8iM-6Re9IovU/s320/t2.jpg" width="233" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I fell in love with this image immediately.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It appears to be a single front lacing layer worn over an exposed smock, paired with an apron and a linen partlet with attached or integral ruff.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now, it's never a good idea to take coloured drawings at face value and it's clear that some liberties have been taken with the image when compared to the original, a Dutch engraving from the 1590s.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLsb0R6FYxUTecZiGaRJwz7LF-rXv7OSGU1fkzFS8bfQOeCdGEhXUL4VY-0oJfxuDkpHEg0X60XJB6zXPqsOjpbpqBJW3JNKk8w0UEez2J1IPZYJWIc82azFqnU93_GR-zY4GbhDqMRYQ/s1600/orig.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="776" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLsb0R6FYxUTecZiGaRJwz7LF-rXv7OSGU1fkzFS8bfQOeCdGEhXUL4VY-0oJfxuDkpHEg0X60XJB6zXPqsOjpbpqBJW3JNKk8w0UEez2J1IPZYJWIc82azFqnU93_GR-zY4GbhDqMRYQ/s320/orig.jpg" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jacob de Gheyn, 1593-97</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Leaving to one side whether or not blue and green were popular colour choices, some fairly glaring differences include the fact that the white linen cap has been turned into a black hood and the overpartlet (probably black and worn over a separate ruff and collar) has been turned into a single linen piece.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIG7Ivzoi4xk5S_ecl4kL3zK0wKQoQmyxfyQldCWWgTJsuFEl_xOTYZ10mTB-MTnDlWrmuRZo3BxxcagegqgFvFM_fKss-5d8nLEogXD9vO_a2M3SgW_QHBM_kt9-XCPdOnDadOMQ8Oe8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-10-13+at+4.29.35+PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="662" data-original-width="655" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIG7Ivzoi4xk5S_ecl4kL3zK0wKQoQmyxfyQldCWWgTJsuFEl_xOTYZ10mTB-MTnDlWrmuRZo3BxxcagegqgFvFM_fKss-5d8nLEogXD9vO_a2M3SgW_QHBM_kt9-XCPdOnDadOMQ8Oe8/s320/Screen+Shot+2018-10-13+at+4.29.35+PM.png" width="316" /></a><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></div>
<br />
However, despite the inconsistencies, I still thought it would be fun to reproduce the image as interpreted by Trevelyon. <br />
<br />
As a starting point I decided to use the late period bodice pattern from The Tudor Tailor, but I knew the most challenging aspect fo the outfit would be the sleeves.<br />
<br />
First I tried a single piece sleeve pattern since the inspiration images don't seem to show front seams. The sleeve pattern for the late period gown is quite large, so I make a narrower one using the two piece sleeve from the Tudor Tailor women's doublet.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7lEidGCij1XNpK6mgivxkQH0-oCAQ5_yQAoySJzsLRdA4anb6gxp9jXETq7u0yTVJ4ac3UbfTde3872RnZiVjTxrZVVETk0rWBOPKr5g1uvX8iWy8u6jQX-Ukppe0DxFm-GU3Zl19Wv8/s1600/Mock1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="572" data-original-width="1600" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7lEidGCij1XNpK6mgivxkQH0-oCAQ5_yQAoySJzsLRdA4anb6gxp9jXETq7u0yTVJ4ac3UbfTde3872RnZiVjTxrZVVETk0rWBOPKr5g1uvX8iWy8u6jQX-Ukppe0DxFm-GU3Zl19Wv8/s400/Mock1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Not bad a terrible start, but the bodice need adjusting the sleeves still have too much volume.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO5bFDXeasQC1it4l0CHJUuexW1BAX_27beEjoJdFuK7mKKRcYvOuBXdoqBMKXjBNktWZVMLruF8o0pngDYmRHGMo1x-xyaOkTHtugYIpU6eODxV9PVV2PrP85X0l4YRRT67Pm329Zsxk/s1600/sleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1268" data-original-width="1600" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO5bFDXeasQC1it4l0CHJUuexW1BAX_27beEjoJdFuK7mKKRcYvOuBXdoqBMKXjBNktWZVMLruF8o0pngDYmRHGMo1x-xyaOkTHtugYIpU6eODxV9PVV2PrP85X0l4YRRT67Pm329Zsxk/s320/sleeves.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Next I widen the neckline and try a narrower single piece sleeve and a two piece sleeve with extra volume in the sleeve head.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSqqg3-EwDTxdzvBRUSZ_R-1EB-_olASESiXAFEkRrrru2cSWcMwM5c-3BdN5hdS6hYdFBpJd2O5yfov4sWx6P87XuaBS5Q77CoLX83IFLyrARzuHjJJQlKH48wBz1ShAxrABclxYW5wI/s1600/Mock2b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1165" data-original-width="1600" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSqqg3-EwDTxdzvBRUSZ_R-1EB-_olASESiXAFEkRrrru2cSWcMwM5c-3BdN5hdS6hYdFBpJd2O5yfov4sWx6P87XuaBS5Q77CoLX83IFLyrARzuHjJJQlKH48wBz1ShAxrABclxYW5wI/s400/Mock2b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Better, but I'm still worried there's odd tension through the neck and so I think about tweaking the angle for the neckline.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxDT5WShQM8RXH_tS5eOjh1NOOU_VvJyyYh74rAIAOtsOYkPGvDCcnanyHHlsjQVUAedW2l7yBR4xWcA3G34GgyiT2u4JyPILIYjryCShg7DvPJcGXsz7zy5vF7vD-btWXiMAsT6MO8gI/s1600/Neckb.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="753" data-original-width="1600" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxDT5WShQM8RXH_tS5eOjh1NOOU_VvJyyYh74rAIAOtsOYkPGvDCcnanyHHlsjQVUAedW2l7yBR4xWcA3G34GgyiT2u4JyPILIYjryCShg7DvPJcGXsz7zy5vF7vD-btWXiMAsT6MO8gI/s400/Neckb.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
With the neckline adjusted I also try adding even more volume to the head of the two piece sleeve.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGuXPTCrScTd07K71BBNEBtUrqT3w-h0qq5zrf6FeoG89uDNXDxfGurutfqULO4h8Ki2mbh6V1Za6DV4hjeSj2qgKuI1aMxc_sXexoxyZKlkpsTcKKNJmcq_TXc-R7F3640U7qzlTdZpA/s1600/Mock4b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1590" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGuXPTCrScTd07K71BBNEBtUrqT3w-h0qq5zrf6FeoG89uDNXDxfGurutfqULO4h8Ki2mbh6V1Za6DV4hjeSj2qgKuI1aMxc_sXexoxyZKlkpsTcKKNJmcq_TXc-R7F3640U7qzlTdZpA/s400/Mock4b.jpg" width="395" /></a></div>
<br />
Option B appears to be the closest (especially when worn with a partlet). And while I'm not totally in love with the shape it's not too dissimilar to other Dutch styles from the 1570s.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixNLAI_hfRa67Wv8GDP5uRrSCQQQRAx1MYq5cZOklhjIva8s8FZPTZxoflZjM73mu91Q2jkmYnOqog0nWQ_jsTRv3NfIPvXsdyQ2mdCh1mXbBGdJeg6FvxWr3Z4gCp482f2PAyiUizLw0/s1600/a22f7813ca3e7fea99840cd929c4823c.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="815" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixNLAI_hfRa67Wv8GDP5uRrSCQQQRAx1MYq5cZOklhjIva8s8FZPTZxoflZjM73mu91Q2jkmYnOqog0nWQ_jsTRv3NfIPvXsdyQ2mdCh1mXbBGdJeg6FvxWr3Z4gCp482f2PAyiUizLw0/s320/a22f7813ca3e7fea99840cd929c4823c.jpg" width="221" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnUIEO5Wb38VN8UpqXE8r9GIb75_5HzmyHVcXMLZMwkTYiEyUUF5tKjvFXhLIpQHG4vJbyaSVWjedtthykGMIUtsl7YRiJ4hJcyqGeA85kfNECsA2bMnOHqyCE1Aohj51DahP1RhrPMjY/s1600/ae634ea06b7ebfe6ade6c3fe33bd6e4a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="892" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnUIEO5Wb38VN8UpqXE8r9GIb75_5HzmyHVcXMLZMwkTYiEyUUF5tKjvFXhLIpQHG4vJbyaSVWjedtthykGMIUtsl7YRiJ4hJcyqGeA85kfNECsA2bMnOHqyCE1Aohj51DahP1RhrPMjY/s320/ae634ea06b7ebfe6ade6c3fe33bd6e4a.jpg" width="202" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
With the mockup done it's time to start the gown in earnest.<br />
And since the inspiration is somewhat historically compromised I decide to apply the same approach to the construction!<br />
<br />
For a while I've wanted a complete outfit that I could wear to Faire that didn't require any additional support layers (for days that the weather was to hot or I too lazy). So be prepared for a lot of very non-historical theatrical cheats.<br />
<br />
First off, I went back to boning.<br />
I'd abandoned bones on my red and tan <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2017/01/petticoat-bodies.html">petticoat bodies</a> to some initial success. However, I later realized that the linen canvas I had chosen was very prone to stretching and that compromised the comfort and fit of the bodice.<br />
I'd used the same linen canvas on the early stages of this project, and you can see that even after stabilizing with pad stitching the piece had grown by about 1/2".<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBg39yvodxwpkcwsYAfqK6uoHMUgwehjL88_Dqg06KNmJwT5OrEfNPFl5nAiQPQzzPsEvAKN9p-yqGQAoz8V2X-tHiDZ2B-9IynbBzWYUdbzCTWIYpRWqUpxCOkDAzYo3fm9fmp76bKLw/s1600/IMG_3117.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBg39yvodxwpkcwsYAfqK6uoHMUgwehjL88_Dqg06KNmJwT5OrEfNPFl5nAiQPQzzPsEvAKN9p-yqGQAoz8V2X-tHiDZ2B-9IynbBzWYUdbzCTWIYpRWqUpxCOkDAzYo3fm9fmp76bKLw/s320/IMG_3117.jpg" width="302" /></a></div>
<br />
Now, I know that's no excuse, especially given the obviously creased and natural fit of the gown in the original engraving. <br />
I also know in my historical heart that I should transition to the more tailored method popularized by the amazing Mathew Gnagy in the <i><a href="https://themodernmaker.net/">Modern Maker</a> </i>book series<i>. </i><br />
But the truth is I'm used to boning. I know how to make it work...and given a new job, killer commute and limited sewing time I wanted to make something relatively quickly and easily (which I could be reasonably sure I'd get right the first time round).<br />
<br />
So I cheat.<br />
<br />
However, I use much less boning than usual; with spring steel along the lacing edge and just a few lengths of 7mm synthetic whalebone through the front of the bodice.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThTeOadRxCoC5stouVdMiJIH6P6RYgB3DoD-EBnye8mkIpAU-KLhFWG-0jzPKcnrGza3fqw5MtT8H_feYHfQ26hhBK-QhjPy8VUvMQhg7t3anhvljffPZetzfj3FQFAaeKMWZRkysQKE/s1600/IMG_3123.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="1600" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThTeOadRxCoC5stouVdMiJIH6P6RYgB3DoD-EBnye8mkIpAU-KLhFWG-0jzPKcnrGza3fqw5MtT8H_feYHfQ26hhBK-QhjPy8VUvMQhg7t3anhvljffPZetzfj3FQFAaeKMWZRkysQKE/s320/IMG_3123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih3frHL-_bx4fp0GDOchO-Q-RxM__kSyvX4T1ZDvCdD8ZH4F61m2PfanEy03POt84e8V0PS5A7eiOI5Lf0nAQb4YBcbQokqXamro4CxNiWboJqPw-PrKhvaGBBdnoyUKlze31S2nXWDC4/s1600/IMG_3123a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="1600" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih3frHL-_bx4fp0GDOchO-Q-RxM__kSyvX4T1ZDvCdD8ZH4F61m2PfanEy03POt84e8V0PS5A7eiOI5Lf0nAQb4YBcbQokqXamro4CxNiWboJqPw-PrKhvaGBBdnoyUKlze31S2nXWDC4/s320/IMG_3123a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The foundation layers are constructed in the same way as my other kirtles, which is to say two moderately heavy layers of hemp/cotton fabric (10.5 oz) pad stitched together with channels sewn in for additional quilting. Again, not saying its right, it's just what I'm used to.<br />
<br />
Then the bones are inserted.<br />
However, at the last minute I decided I needed an extra layer of interlining just to be safe. So to the above pieces I added a third layer of lighter hemp/cotton twill (5.7oz), pad stitching it down and added a couple of additional rows of stitches.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5hL7J7pEpDQDk4aSHMPZ9ECnXc78koYUe7vR6MiTltA-2lbAw3Lw4fTJ0x8RUwcSU6PzfZiYKb289vi0P96GXfTpsjeQT836MvZmnhOD0ZDQaa-Zkr8zVDJl9oYrt8-S_Nw4HvJabY20/s1600/IMG_3152.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1222" data-original-width="1600" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5hL7J7pEpDQDk4aSHMPZ9ECnXc78koYUe7vR6MiTltA-2lbAw3Lw4fTJ0x8RUwcSU6PzfZiYKb289vi0P96GXfTpsjeQT836MvZmnhOD0ZDQaa-Zkr8zVDJl9oYrt8-S_Nw4HvJabY20/s320/IMG_3152.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Then the outer wool shell is temporarily pad stitched to the foundation layers, so that everything stays lined up and the tension even throughout the construction process.<br />
I feel like this is might be quite a lot of unnecessary work. I'm sure a basting stitch would work just as well but I feel like I can get an even tautness with pad stitching, which I hope makes for a smoother final bodice later.<br />
Also, I leave quite a large seam allowance along the front edge since I want to fold this back to create extra padding along the front edge where the spring steel is.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEAXpmWynW747iBxIfzBqPGGsEzzya-wymnEyuyFLxvC7JTb4z5fLD_1nYCdk719SI4k9e5KdThSneE_SHs8tc3qYnED7hMRxHFKkMGNW6EW9Qtk5FkoDAqwHedW5O7KVu-W4kOqaP1Mo/s1600/DSC03432.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1458" data-original-width="1600" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEAXpmWynW747iBxIfzBqPGGsEzzya-wymnEyuyFLxvC7JTb4z5fLD_1nYCdk719SI4k9e5KdThSneE_SHs8tc3qYnED7hMRxHFKkMGNW6EW9Qtk5FkoDAqwHedW5O7KVu-W4kOqaP1Mo/s320/DSC03432.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Then all the seams (except for the shoulder seams) are stitched together. <br />
First they are anchored down with wide Holbein stitch along the seam guide I had previously stitched into the foundation layers. The seam is then reenforced with a back stitch. This process is poorly documented, but due to time constraints I din't take may photos along the way...but look back to my past kirtle posts for more in depth steps.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLVJmjIa0IWVPgBBidRS7xan3rM4ltOZPs9Ejaby87Hn8uTqJ1gFABUVrPePsoGc0bn3drQL-p8LU7b4a31NZAcSAVVV4H276NiL8LuSyA49l8y6g3NI-AC4uxBx30DlJleukAQryMKbo/s1600/DSC03439.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLVJmjIa0IWVPgBBidRS7xan3rM4ltOZPs9Ejaby87Hn8uTqJ1gFABUVrPePsoGc0bn3drQL-p8LU7b4a31NZAcSAVVV4H276NiL8LuSyA49l8y6g3NI-AC4uxBx30DlJleukAQryMKbo/s320/DSC03439.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Before tacking down the seam allowances I snip out the extra layer of 5.7oz interlining, to reduce bulk at the seams.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoYpP4dXTfed7GEZK0Jm9KDyRPmKAC1fmE8lOi-g86WVXDt9nY79q4eVH3lshoXi204hxaflp9y4qYAoTKdrhGtuZ7y54sG1jdiFPfhPoQomIWncL81zk3RBaX8QjO-heJQonU4YQbiYc/s1600/DSC03442.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1204" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoYpP4dXTfed7GEZK0Jm9KDyRPmKAC1fmE8lOi-g86WVXDt9nY79q4eVH3lshoXi204hxaflp9y4qYAoTKdrhGtuZ7y54sG1jdiFPfhPoQomIWncL81zk3RBaX8QjO-heJQonU4YQbiYc/s320/DSC03442.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Then all the seam allowances are clipped and stitched down (except around the back collar and shoulder seams)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKObur9XjHAK95GZG6WyaDhLuzpTdppLyMwQHc9t9hcbc4fI-mN3AQG_qPQqrifReU92LRCKtCl4V_Q_Z_KH-FPOxA9SVRZNHYXT6gQV91-ZR0nrgB5nr27Bru_jm0NPlKZLhw8CWJ86Q/s1600/DSC03617.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1129" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKObur9XjHAK95GZG6WyaDhLuzpTdppLyMwQHc9t9hcbc4fI-mN3AQG_qPQqrifReU92LRCKtCl4V_Q_Z_KH-FPOxA9SVRZNHYXT6gQV91-ZR0nrgB5nr27Bru_jm0NPlKZLhw8CWJ86Q/s320/DSC03617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1E8DVtx0aza8LqCTrII0CjSHm6h732a0oRRssxZ68YUECErn6IPRlRQthAVb9LNsVGCOiUhyphenhyphenijL8pY4iYYhd7TUqLe0ENLzZ5YXtJzH-IQRYqXuPnF7WrHZXueDoY1oeSuJFiinlp_cY/s1600/DSC03618.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1E8DVtx0aza8LqCTrII0CjSHm6h732a0oRRssxZ68YUECErn6IPRlRQthAVb9LNsVGCOiUhyphenhyphenijL8pY4iYYhd7TUqLe0ENLzZ5YXtJzH-IQRYqXuPnF7WrHZXueDoY1oeSuJFiinlp_cY/s320/DSC03618.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Then the lining is made up in medium weight blue linen and pinned into place...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu1h7bljeaHi-2dU1LHJvLI0V-5g7CkHEgVOfStkEJZ0URxUw_qkWFPI9rc89SS97D0A8Y_0annXwNFu3qQ8ArPGGIRVpseF6kJHfiRmQ3dt-kMiZh4EBurqslvHCgnvYrKZZ5RH1ONx4/s1600/DSC03622.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1120" data-original-width="1600" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu1h7bljeaHi-2dU1LHJvLI0V-5g7CkHEgVOfStkEJZ0URxUw_qkWFPI9rc89SS97D0A8Y_0annXwNFu3qQ8ArPGGIRVpseF6kJHfiRmQ3dt-kMiZh4EBurqslvHCgnvYrKZZ5RH1ONx4/s320/DSC03622.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
...and stitched down (again, the shoulders and collar are pinned in for now but won't be stitched until later).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOklrPAed1AGCbx7Ud1aAgdc9sGrU7LpSE9Fh08kxvUCSDkQN622erPeUX4yy1pb5oPcC_eblthKoSkH7p6wh2wtPq-rrLRAFibRh07O54a6htvsXWzJHVCdeXqJJ-_FDS951vq5mNboY/s1600/DSC03625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1119" data-original-width="1600" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOklrPAed1AGCbx7Ud1aAgdc9sGrU7LpSE9Fh08kxvUCSDkQN622erPeUX4yy1pb5oPcC_eblthKoSkH7p6wh2wtPq-rrLRAFibRh07O54a6htvsXWzJHVCdeXqJJ-_FDS951vq5mNboY/s320/DSC03625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GOI5_PKxlevWW8uOJvRhLMQTX2-pguWg371OqWnG4FBRNfenJt3dWPp2iJlbDEW-_39bn9tWBcIKXEMG3r6Sgzbv8KM1MiXz981URVMX7lwF8B_pr1RU8H3bHm_rCdcJKj2AIIOcDFE/s1600/DSC03629.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1111" data-original-width="1600" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GOI5_PKxlevWW8uOJvRhLMQTX2-pguWg371OqWnG4FBRNfenJt3dWPp2iJlbDEW-_39bn9tWBcIKXEMG3r6Sgzbv8KM1MiXz981URVMX7lwF8B_pr1RU8H3bHm_rCdcJKj2AIIOcDFE/s320/DSC03629.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgIWHfdWozsDkv2sEsasC-F69-VODGKznCA2Qp0YZ2B6T7BFPGtVHEDZayZu9vMgTIJU-qla___fODy6o3SjzxIHUWBrKO0S-ps5wguQHmxAZo2oWgZBi4RPXRl2Lm6V5tNGKPlh0_AXo/s1600/DSC03639.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgIWHfdWozsDkv2sEsasC-F69-VODGKznCA2Qp0YZ2B6T7BFPGtVHEDZayZu9vMgTIJU-qla___fODy6o3SjzxIHUWBrKO0S-ps5wguQHmxAZo2oWgZBi4RPXRl2Lm6V5tNGKPlh0_AXo/s320/DSC03639.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn17s5ow-JzSaUUlXaSGA2miBua3fwrqgPuXIOc8jBIlduopXDyN93OsHpZ2SH5c-QFx9ymSHaqSt8aybvbYW9v1ZPjrtkN19GfWzpcGR0IzsolgM2IbACcN3VPZ7MVPuMLDoQR3KIE-U/s1600/DSC03647.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn17s5ow-JzSaUUlXaSGA2miBua3fwrqgPuXIOc8jBIlduopXDyN93OsHpZ2SH5c-QFx9ymSHaqSt8aybvbYW9v1ZPjrtkN19GfWzpcGR0IzsolgM2IbACcN3VPZ7MVPuMLDoQR3KIE-U/s320/DSC03647.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqfFLpupEbCFiVUlhx8ViIurLtX3QeDOy3My-T-Q-iEykNRuH8FGt_JAR5E4k0U0TRM0PBSlYrR-48RX3Yv4l0qwz4FeLgbzW2sa6CX0ILF2VE1DpyVoQ1yzbiDx9_TAo7MItlvMizoA/s1600/DSC03652.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1114" data-original-width="1600" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqfFLpupEbCFiVUlhx8ViIurLtX3QeDOy3My-T-Q-iEykNRuH8FGt_JAR5E4k0U0TRM0PBSlYrR-48RX3Yv4l0qwz4FeLgbzW2sa6CX0ILF2VE1DpyVoQ1yzbiDx9_TAo7MItlvMizoA/s320/DSC03652.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0i_CzPacqAt3xRJkOd72m2lrBrneR8SebNuTQBzeTKBoVN3-RtJp5qTZUUDNUnAI4NwQuvTndgR4XWTInoXZo6hhUMjdN6MiQHjx4H1em7hIWgWaRA3WKYZYNK11U62b7wNQoLo4-9wA/s1600/DSC03660.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1251" data-original-width="1600" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0i_CzPacqAt3xRJkOd72m2lrBrneR8SebNuTQBzeTKBoVN3-RtJp5qTZUUDNUnAI4NwQuvTndgR4XWTInoXZo6hhUMjdN6MiQHjx4H1em7hIWgWaRA3WKYZYNK11U62b7wNQoLo4-9wA/s320/DSC03660.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqNPPMDUZgFBFXnkNMiPJ2_k10rkMNAFvrOeJy25Oii-tTtdANQt3wQTrQqZMf1W4MEAgs6NF4s0pYLqvaHnPHqYE4obLkv7Yeh66qJowo4fm3KfLtKcXqDEkBCYupUtBeZKFugga0U8/s1600/DSC03662.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1127" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqNPPMDUZgFBFXnkNMiPJ2_k10rkMNAFvrOeJy25Oii-tTtdANQt3wQTrQqZMf1W4MEAgs6NF4s0pYLqvaHnPHqYE4obLkv7Yeh66qJowo4fm3KfLtKcXqDEkBCYupUtBeZKFugga0U8/s320/DSC03662.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Next the shoulder seams are stitched together (just the wide Holbein stitch for now).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUlL8v-K0E6HwYJ4Gatge7t__t5UAwMbqjyq-t6Bc686RdTm2p7Q8JC1TZfuxRzra20_Ok25gqXBq11Qby4v_PGLAkp3Q3Jchk2xQA-5XvIywY3ULKEGR2tjctNsU_IupUHzasLn7Q4Ao/s1600/DSC03666.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1097" data-original-width="1600" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUlL8v-K0E6HwYJ4Gatge7t__t5UAwMbqjyq-t6Bc686RdTm2p7Q8JC1TZfuxRzra20_Ok25gqXBq11Qby4v_PGLAkp3Q3Jchk2xQA-5XvIywY3ULKEGR2tjctNsU_IupUHzasLn7Q4Ao/s320/DSC03666.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Then a temporary lacing strips are added and the bodice tried on for fit.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO2KI5bR62bMO-0o0nXiXAmlmYW_rHuJutiIMCWSriLPbQ09XO1kQ1AvL1IIeaEIKuGCFH5xZtCdd4p3BrIOj8QWdsnOz6XaZOiAoSR70VyqPc6s6eQ8AEPfzN3QcFgnRf8rbiF94j5Ic/s1600/DSC03669.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1014" data-original-width="1600" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO2KI5bR62bMO-0o0nXiXAmlmYW_rHuJutiIMCWSriLPbQ09XO1kQ1AvL1IIeaEIKuGCFH5xZtCdd4p3BrIOj8QWdsnOz6XaZOiAoSR70VyqPc6s6eQ8AEPfzN3QcFgnRf8rbiF94j5Ic/s320/DSC03669.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Looks good!<br />
You can see there's a larger gap down the centre front compared to the mockup. This is largely due to the fact that the bodice (with is multiple internal layers) has much less give than the muslin. However, during construction I also took in the centre front but an additional 1/2" on either side to more closely approximate the gap in the original etching.<br />
<br />
With the fit checked the shoulder seams are now reenforced with a backstitch and, as with the body pieces, the 5.7oz lingering is snipped away.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga42OaenGhdcr69JNPGHOzjTYHot3gdzliThlNGzxELgGruKlFRIjDtBpwsBZxh8GAQXKpTOfVbwfEeDYzn-YQNKsaXEsSVOc38i75HRqHIRnXAh0OwGS232OWLsITdH-NTDvO4ZkWOmE/s1600/DSC03673.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1070" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga42OaenGhdcr69JNPGHOzjTYHot3gdzliThlNGzxELgGruKlFRIjDtBpwsBZxh8GAQXKpTOfVbwfEeDYzn-YQNKsaXEsSVOc38i75HRqHIRnXAh0OwGS232OWLsITdH-NTDvO4ZkWOmE/s320/DSC03673.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga-2fqMBzY0IUB1gST-1AIiEjcpSYuvZ_sUV3xqAKamLyFvifzzabGdstDiNv24RHMQxw1egNxrVKz9P3FFHpf9_3i9rBnT2N_HaKIHhYkH0EUh7mPejrH2ksyDrIk6bPwgPPkngaRc-s/s1600/DSC03672.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga-2fqMBzY0IUB1gST-1AIiEjcpSYuvZ_sUV3xqAKamLyFvifzzabGdstDiNv24RHMQxw1egNxrVKz9P3FFHpf9_3i9rBnT2N_HaKIHhYkH0EUh7mPejrH2ksyDrIk6bPwgPPkngaRc-s/s320/DSC03672.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBlPxMBz1P3uQvaQRVyITjGvQvPwWJURKgKjSLSzC1Hl7kaofwCrjEVtH2lmZug4KTcEy-Gs5zfJjSGwyzLGNFjGMFM_qIMZ7h8iukzyyIOfAtXw_-J3Siy-1XJS176qvj7zROlbiYNPQ/s1600/DSC03676.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBlPxMBz1P3uQvaQRVyITjGvQvPwWJURKgKjSLSzC1Hl7kaofwCrjEVtH2lmZug4KTcEy-Gs5zfJjSGwyzLGNFjGMFM_qIMZ7h8iukzyyIOfAtXw_-J3Siy-1XJS176qvj7zROlbiYNPQ/s320/DSC03676.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Finally, the shoulder and collar seams are stitched down.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphenyVYsniJZiCKsBaO9QHs5Ib6TuM7qic3KCMfFigQTBQ_nKY4oqSsaMtzp5jlXXARkzNvzo5d0ywDxTs1AEj84KFLxHKP1bZWbJ-UVEKd1Xmr7wOvVIkwFmvJ8veEa0uTN6ai97cGZMY/s1600/DSC03679.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1029" data-original-width="1600" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphenyVYsniJZiCKsBaO9QHs5Ib6TuM7qic3KCMfFigQTBQ_nKY4oqSsaMtzp5jlXXARkzNvzo5d0ywDxTs1AEj84KFLxHKP1bZWbJ-UVEKd1Xmr7wOvVIkwFmvJ8veEa0uTN6ai97cGZMY/s320/DSC03679.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The corners of the shoulder seams are stitched together to create a more even curve. Since the finished sleeve will be whipstitched to the completed armscye eliminating gaps will be important.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8DSTGndbWONSM16BuXxeZ_vEC3iy0dkoUgvYcmoBbAEn8PHH62UocFo_rCksTS7u-RxnVynVPqj1jdHv2RdJJfgzuuhx4VPO_Mo0eNBgn74VtGArcKeQDlm4gyisP6KkmLRWnbvMm0aQ/s1600/DSC03680.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1071" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8DSTGndbWONSM16BuXxeZ_vEC3iy0dkoUgvYcmoBbAEn8PHH62UocFo_rCksTS7u-RxnVynVPqj1jdHv2RdJJfgzuuhx4VPO_Mo0eNBgn74VtGArcKeQDlm4gyisP6KkmLRWnbvMm0aQ/s320/DSC03680.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then the lining is stitched down at the shoulder. In order to reduce bulk on the seam itself, the front piece is stitched down flat towards the back of the bodice.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgNHos_yAVzVAhj2W22Y7AFmBLrQ4aFyOXBDdyN8ZhGe4I3KXPmcFK5Mh41Q2DDdSzUflByW82SJbHMhyAsrSZtHHMeRCjKT8kn9o6ht-BZpkjFvWLmW1_BWCT9UIliKCtiYpaUT63iM/s1600/DSC03687.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1050" data-original-width="1600" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgNHos_yAVzVAhj2W22Y7AFmBLrQ4aFyOXBDdyN8ZhGe4I3KXPmcFK5Mh41Q2DDdSzUflByW82SJbHMhyAsrSZtHHMeRCjKT8kn9o6ht-BZpkjFvWLmW1_BWCT9UIliKCtiYpaUT63iM/s320/DSC03687.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
Next the back piece is folded over and stitched down (just behind the actual shoulder seam).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE48ygaXKQFJO7YufE8GsI4wp1FfHUbFrA08GZwk3MSLkaAEzyTWAwndrdDTLBrqgMIjFccok3rCW8ZugQ-WRv_4DJt-IVprASm_z-lbjhjMklHjl7IQtMwOaDcEWShwT_f5ax_i3z6Ps/s1600/DSC03691.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="1600" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE48ygaXKQFJO7YufE8GsI4wp1FfHUbFrA08GZwk3MSLkaAEzyTWAwndrdDTLBrqgMIjFccok3rCW8ZugQ-WRv_4DJt-IVprASm_z-lbjhjMklHjl7IQtMwOaDcEWShwT_f5ax_i3z6Ps/s320/DSC03691.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Finally, the lining around the collar is stitched down.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPIckZx6LgzDVm0AenQfwNYOy3sEyjyFZkLg1FIHu5pzq6pTQISBo1yZA5QiON6BZGrDeBmXQWeu1af0HR0uXEzCE5oaAXcUHgd8nuCgfnYa9GD3-p8hpKExxeAMqjgdQ-PilVtzATM34/s1600/DSC03692.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1043" data-original-width="1600" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPIckZx6LgzDVm0AenQfwNYOy3sEyjyFZkLg1FIHu5pzq6pTQISBo1yZA5QiON6BZGrDeBmXQWeu1af0HR0uXEzCE5oaAXcUHgd8nuCgfnYa9GD3-p8hpKExxeAMqjgdQ-PilVtzATM34/s320/DSC03692.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With the bodice assembled it's time to make up the lacing strips. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The strips are constructed of a length of linen, folded over twice (so four layers deep altogether) that is stitched along the outer edges.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then holes are poked with an awl and the eyelets worked with a buttonhole stitch.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizuvbhhA_LYaU_STbvy7-RppElTzq4F0eK6BLmgRBKdwD9ct_XO7EgdiMVKfiKKShDYr-My6aRrFbq8wFWIFfJm0l7pdYjoizqjdlw-pUglQyW2pxN7oSz_ugMZYVoOIK8XfH1-9fWfS8/s1600/IMG_3776.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizuvbhhA_LYaU_STbvy7-RppElTzq4F0eK6BLmgRBKdwD9ct_XO7EgdiMVKfiKKShDYr-My6aRrFbq8wFWIFfJm0l7pdYjoizqjdlw-pUglQyW2pxN7oSz_ugMZYVoOIK8XfH1-9fWfS8/s320/IMG_3776.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYqIug8D7WZA5sXFx3k95hyphenhyphenRUOTCZBUk3BUIVMt9dLKYbKy_zYEyTjEf2EoquoEckxjrqjN9Rq2ZGiwL_jc4wvuqm9LrT9TYErx-66Fx1ZIWjzTg1U7KjmsMzNTbDwFxtiDtFNvz2L824/s1600/IMG_3777.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYqIug8D7WZA5sXFx3k95hyphenhyphenRUOTCZBUk3BUIVMt9dLKYbKy_zYEyTjEf2EoquoEckxjrqjN9Rq2ZGiwL_jc4wvuqm9LrT9TYErx-66Fx1ZIWjzTg1U7KjmsMzNTbDwFxtiDtFNvz2L824/s320/IMG_3777.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The eyelets are offset for spiral lacing.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn_4Zimq9zQJymvKUfHpZkcR3PSTG9f1FF-D1YAqqd8Tc6gBuzwYVbEToMw1_UbOu3yLiu6fIO7TmfONb9BR2hh8wpCt7xqkIkBNuMS2YBPJvR9-G3oyu8jMgh0SRuy25LXYtlEzz8bUk/s1600/DSC03711.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="933" data-original-width="1600" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn_4Zimq9zQJymvKUfHpZkcR3PSTG9f1FF-D1YAqqd8Tc6gBuzwYVbEToMw1_UbOu3yLiu6fIO7TmfONb9BR2hh8wpCt7xqkIkBNuMS2YBPJvR9-G3oyu8jMgh0SRuy25LXYtlEzz8bUk/s320/DSC03711.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgMTgGh-Q_2FYmeXocwT_9Hk1qmwjaU8qPZBrJsjeE-qPLbiyhKvUJiG-eEzzOCjasUE-pPSdUxQixkohjW5t7CXwvxy8DiigYZNVRH_3RYPI8KorVD2HArNwaUY_DQcd4eu9yzIAzNII/s1600/DSC03703.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="557" data-original-width="1600" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgMTgGh-Q_2FYmeXocwT_9Hk1qmwjaU8qPZBrJsjeE-qPLbiyhKvUJiG-eEzzOCjasUE-pPSdUxQixkohjW5t7CXwvxy8DiigYZNVRH_3RYPI8KorVD2HArNwaUY_DQcd4eu9yzIAzNII/s320/DSC03703.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Before the strips are sewn into the bodice, the wool on the inside of the bodice is stitched down into the empty channel between the two spring steel bones. Normally I'd say be careful not to catch the fabric on outside, but it was so difficult to sew between the bones that I was lucky if I even caught two of the interlining layers.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdj3HYwxlSQ_287Bs32rQRFX07Qv1D3KiMViJ72LKgGGVeZYM9y5d1jGX_739rUtpYAh4kKLf1HtA5ScjizJTEonqHYTR7h5JU8ZbUMvNJBW3YC40-RMPPmkGTqDj8tCEemJdu6d2S-HU/s1600/DSC03696.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdj3HYwxlSQ_287Bs32rQRFX07Qv1D3KiMViJ72LKgGGVeZYM9y5d1jGX_739rUtpYAh4kKLf1HtA5ScjizJTEonqHYTR7h5JU8ZbUMvNJBW3YC40-RMPPmkGTqDj8tCEemJdu6d2S-HU/s320/DSC03696.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Then the eyelet strips are pinned into place, being careful line up the holes at the top and bottom.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPjx4kLmBIutzVFWk2-xrFZZmxNHdf1WFk9NcrsCRMmpetQ8KivLR7u097QNfgXXDQJlaqApFiviFtnYkOlwVvb8j3ssQQQp-ObN3eWhxgeJcegUyd8IsJqiaJerzE8nZD7xJ4Ya2yhk/s1600/DSC03722.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="1600" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPjx4kLmBIutzVFWk2-xrFZZmxNHdf1WFk9NcrsCRMmpetQ8KivLR7u097QNfgXXDQJlaqApFiviFtnYkOlwVvb8j3ssQQQp-ObN3eWhxgeJcegUyd8IsJqiaJerzE8nZD7xJ4Ya2yhk/s320/DSC03722.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-rUnGmBblwh9P9rn_fu_kVcx1Nrw2-7TlIPZcD6by_ZhOR_rrrWjrwAHCeysDpGxGodVCVpesD9CCTgE6U3I95Hui3Ikhyphenhyphen_8EZhZgzm1J8qyKKvzjMJDjjOp8ZVp4XlAuKmYOP2IsoGw/s1600/DSC03718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1304" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-rUnGmBblwh9P9rn_fu_kVcx1Nrw2-7TlIPZcD6by_ZhOR_rrrWjrwAHCeysDpGxGodVCVpesD9CCTgE6U3I95Hui3Ikhyphenhyphen_8EZhZgzm1J8qyKKvzjMJDjjOp8ZVp4XlAuKmYOP2IsoGw/s320/DSC03718.jpg" width="260" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Then the strips are stitched down, first with a spaced backstitch 1/8" away from the inside edge and then with a whip stitch. Again, it was very difficult to sew around the bones so the result basically looks like the dog's breakfast.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTU88DdeINIWLZFgK1fs5QaBmzwGVnVXQq_VFM1aDl79c4Xrun5A3UQyCmyarGYqCVOGUds3eKOzEA97YiGnBLDLKrox3XuD8wuPet2z0XxBu3yAr1AwP-DEZysNEMmklRMgpUS6ijkNQ/s1600/IMG_3807.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1314" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTU88DdeINIWLZFgK1fs5QaBmzwGVnVXQq_VFM1aDl79c4Xrun5A3UQyCmyarGYqCVOGUds3eKOzEA97YiGnBLDLKrox3XuD8wuPet2z0XxBu3yAr1AwP-DEZysNEMmklRMgpUS6ijkNQ/s320/IMG_3807.jpg" width="262" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
After both stripes are secured the bodice is tried on again. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYNTlKGo_faLNFE1yK83y5fnQmD9vIddMO9ntEcGNrIF8DNdsqmzwsczsqnj25klsLBI9UI6kMdYxJWma7-dT4MIWcQu6g7fr6R-YQRDXNH-sVUhxUcqqmYN67OWkFXZtzC676rqHM88s/s1600/IMG_3817.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1233" data-original-width="1600" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYNTlKGo_faLNFE1yK83y5fnQmD9vIddMO9ntEcGNrIF8DNdsqmzwsczsqnj25klsLBI9UI6kMdYxJWma7-dT4MIWcQu6g7fr6R-YQRDXNH-sVUhxUcqqmYN67OWkFXZtzC676rqHM88s/s320/IMG_3817.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxIdEr6qRSjAu9nwverISb1tEYr9AKulxp7tJQn5KX85GloDXolWXCAO6mATkT-XGXoVM9H35KDDmXE_ZY9Rtq8-f6Kf60u2NhL-TySiCokBEhfgiUmpxR2ZVqVXAAcvzVgcSFTWqi1go/s1600/DSC03726.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1600" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxIdEr6qRSjAu9nwverISb1tEYr9AKulxp7tJQn5KX85GloDXolWXCAO6mATkT-XGXoVM9H35KDDmXE_ZY9Rtq8-f6Kf60u2NhL-TySiCokBEhfgiUmpxR2ZVqVXAAcvzVgcSFTWqi1go/s320/DSC03726.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Looks pretty straight! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
However, aesthetically I think there may be too many rows of lacing, so I may experiment with only lacing every other eyelet.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now the temporary pad stitches are removed from the exterior of the bodice it's time to attach the sleeves.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The sleeves are made up separately and completely finished along all edges.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
(I neglected to document it, but there is additional layer of wool pad stitched to the lining of the top of the sleeve head. Im hoping this will give the pleats a bit more "oomph" and help them stand away from the body.)</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKUzNOxSvVqmrnsnEiVrSa5FaBFeTtch8fEO-x7Up7kBrWsTPezfaLzJuaye2ffxLo9wycz9B6Sj-YLG8OE5upFdym19VYk526nL3ARD91aQm4gy5aWg7zoA6oH6-Qnu-7v1HcVllidgE/s1600/DSC03701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1099" data-original-width="1600" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKUzNOxSvVqmrnsnEiVrSa5FaBFeTtch8fEO-x7Up7kBrWsTPezfaLzJuaye2ffxLo9wycz9B6Sj-YLG8OE5upFdym19VYk526nL3ARD91aQm4gy5aWg7zoA6oH6-Qnu-7v1HcVllidgE/s320/DSC03701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Then the sleeves are cartridge pleated and pinned into the armscye...<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj7HT7FC-QHymW3kYlj41N_CT75oMpctz8XybaNIS074A1o7QrOeurufKIYarEf7pl0M6xkNxjnJ_ukncwtqx79WHjtN6J9LgY-iLuSRyMNaFpmZJze91XGHUMddO8i05Lzj9RhVlk4Y8/s1600/DSC03728.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1600" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj7HT7FC-QHymW3kYlj41N_CT75oMpctz8XybaNIS074A1o7QrOeurufKIYarEf7pl0M6xkNxjnJ_ukncwtqx79WHjtN6J9LgY-iLuSRyMNaFpmZJze91XGHUMddO8i05Lzj9RhVlk4Y8/s320/DSC03728.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
...and whipstitched into place.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAGwbke7JALiL3J4h1DAMO_ouvqHQK3bdZitGMmBVAs5xOW60OMbQiR-Px3BLPRnoLRkmrPLh3ek99tSSlsohQouowj5d0KGd_Xqdejkv_-vqL-4nmQconCcessxMkL8ehdy5sbuAS9cY/s1600/DSC03736.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAGwbke7JALiL3J4h1DAMO_ouvqHQK3bdZitGMmBVAs5xOW60OMbQiR-Px3BLPRnoLRkmrPLh3ek99tSSlsohQouowj5d0KGd_Xqdejkv_-vqL-4nmQconCcessxMkL8ehdy5sbuAS9cY/s320/DSC03736.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaWwVdTgR2AqsqTPPpc19iChlV1ATtQfZPuPATz031WOYcZiEsmJIsfOd0-RadSDOp_VKYlsBn06Ar0GFe_dfsroLBfEZ8jMBYEL5uY6u_IirjWnViXF6zqS4WpCs8dVyiI2LmGXD7UyA/s1600/IMG_3988a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1247" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaWwVdTgR2AqsqTPPpc19iChlV1ATtQfZPuPATz031WOYcZiEsmJIsfOd0-RadSDOp_VKYlsBn06Ar0GFe_dfsroLBfEZ8jMBYEL5uY6u_IirjWnViXF6zqS4WpCs8dVyiI2LmGXD7UyA/s320/IMG_3988a.jpg" width="249" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Finally, it's time to attach the skirt. <br />
I didn't document this part of the process at all having gone over it pretty throughly in my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2017/01/petticoat-bodies.html">petticoat bodies</a> post. I followed the same process for levelling and cartridge pleating the skirt, the only difference is the this time I lined it in linen. Maybe "lined" is not the correct term, because I left it free falling at the bottom. In addition, 4 stripes of worsted wool tape are sewn in around the bottom to give the skirt a little more body, so really it's more of a built in petticoat. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYGp5szwf-wydkNFstCFGzi6i3g5bArtBNbPRdh6UVLPDjuVSI6L6gzqi-U8VMQQHjqZYB3lGJmoqQgO_TjSGUciuygfLGGFdawZoUVIq-eJKtBzkq5Fhan1TC3gCdJxrSDrKuJ4iD2w/s1600/IMG_3983a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1154" data-original-width="1600" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYGp5szwf-wydkNFstCFGzi6i3g5bArtBNbPRdh6UVLPDjuVSI6L6gzqi-U8VMQQHjqZYB3lGJmoqQgO_TjSGUciuygfLGGFdawZoUVIq-eJKtBzkq5Fhan1TC3gCdJxrSDrKuJ4iD2w/s320/IMG_3983a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNXQleMX-vcH3sNpaHlqXZQkZ4UHK7owPzIU8Aa_Mm8rmXOXyNcOXNSJNouUZmHQU4Ck2H_QnfIlFkcWAJjBdcQIWcec_eGdsRMOCeBQdBbMyDMCOtPjOi0xDuXRdtzp87-LmdT6IAu4/s1600/IMG_4007a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1079" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNXQleMX-vcH3sNpaHlqXZQkZ4UHK7owPzIU8Aa_Mm8rmXOXyNcOXNSJNouUZmHQU4Ck2H_QnfIlFkcWAJjBdcQIWcec_eGdsRMOCeBQdBbMyDMCOtPjOi0xDuXRdtzp87-LmdT6IAu4/s320/IMG_4007a.jpg" width="215" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8w1AW0a6Anh02rRpOU1Shl9N8E4p4_0Y4rR7V_4SMOJ6v2HeCP3D1l-QLEzkPHhVXZNTXsMFuSN8oDBTKJ3WdHSRKiChMUSq1hBkM18SO_hVJNjgdA52UIjOI6rsLnHHsCPGSw7Pszs/s1600/IMG_4010a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1301" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8w1AW0a6Anh02rRpOU1Shl9N8E4p4_0Y4rR7V_4SMOJ6v2HeCP3D1l-QLEzkPHhVXZNTXsMFuSN8oDBTKJ3WdHSRKiChMUSq1hBkM18SO_hVJNjgdA52UIjOI6rsLnHHsCPGSw7Pszs/s320/IMG_4010a.jpg" width="260" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYYCfS5CHV54QgW-BOIwMiHPGl9gZkJ5k0nvfSYoA6sK7RGk6iu1TV9FIY3OF9mXz0aNss99cK4rOsxF4mIgAQPithWCrcw6YiZIWCW-ZjRvRCgGmid6oQOKITUrcpSF3aYxpmuF6SiiM/s1600/DSC03739.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1241" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYYCfS5CHV54QgW-BOIwMiHPGl9gZkJ5k0nvfSYoA6sK7RGk6iu1TV9FIY3OF9mXz0aNss99cK4rOsxF4mIgAQPithWCrcw6YiZIWCW-ZjRvRCgGmid6oQOKITUrcpSF3aYxpmuF6SiiM/s320/DSC03739.jpg" width="248" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Next, <i>ACCESSORIES</i>!<br />
<br />
First, the parlet.<br />
I actually ended up making two. The first was made in a light/medium weight linen (4.5oz) with integral ruffle in a finer 2.8oz linen.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZa7L6Vy6FHr72sVgfFEOGYpvSCJFlBowcSJe63T3kj_WQZLy8IfbRZK-ZFcGMdLIocpP8zt58EDCMi-Mjkgk0UTFRNgluxckeWfchUtI7ScHPumGA14olcWgDJAptu-7QyBkIUlouth4/s1600/IMG_3966a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1521" data-original-width="1600" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZa7L6Vy6FHr72sVgfFEOGYpvSCJFlBowcSJe63T3kj_WQZLy8IfbRZK-ZFcGMdLIocpP8zt58EDCMi-Mjkgk0UTFRNgluxckeWfchUtI7ScHPumGA14olcWgDJAptu-7QyBkIUlouth4/s320/IMG_3966a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
It was perfectly nice, but I didn't love all my choices. <br />
I had originally wanted a thicker, more opaque linen to fully conceal the neckline of the gown (as in the original) but I think the seams and hemmed edges look too substantial as a result.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0tEX2S1-m6Uzq-p1DkcJ3luuSfVhG9QkEv-qEgB7zEvGEXGzBgg3UutbPLxGCNZKvlr-GIGhXiZ6FkolnMchE6l6IkgYELTDu6UtVfmOuuDllaZRWonkHs9mxZsf3Jl0XFQ6qyRtgwXU/s1600/IMG_3971.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0tEX2S1-m6Uzq-p1DkcJ3luuSfVhG9QkEv-qEgB7zEvGEXGzBgg3UutbPLxGCNZKvlr-GIGhXiZ6FkolnMchE6l6IkgYELTDu6UtVfmOuuDllaZRWonkHs9mxZsf3Jl0XFQ6qyRtgwXU/s320/IMG_3971.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggU8HEJEQ9UBAw3JDsIKjBbUTJMGCFMm9StEMbG3N7BDdhqVSkj8HJ9zefrLs8Qk8I4YPX0ohJQFjs6_DN4IXdGHUmkmPUuij4eh3oGKItsKH0eep3ghJn1IK4QHUucoLXmlXtp5AtPPU/s1600/IMG_3974.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggU8HEJEQ9UBAw3JDsIKjBbUTJMGCFMm9StEMbG3N7BDdhqVSkj8HJ9zefrLs8Qk8I4YPX0ohJQFjs6_DN4IXdGHUmkmPUuij4eh3oGKItsKH0eep3ghJn1IK4QHUucoLXmlXtp5AtPPU/s320/IMG_3974.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And of course after looking at the original again the ruff is too regular and set to be passed off as a ruffle. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So I decide to make a second version, this time in lighter 2.8oz linen with a narrow 1/8" hems all around and a single felled seam at the shoulder. I also leave the ruffle off so I can pin my small ruff to it later.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGv8aRWHmjAeaZavmumTxF8LiTYdzKMPc6OxNIg92_nEAkLrxQ1AEFaC9BUdLrwy1l2BQ8noBMaD6RpoavJU9FAdxJ79FGO4y-G9Y5U6hs5xfEF9wcwy9rfPwh9Y43NhlofQf22xrISv4/s1600/IMG_3958a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1472" data-original-width="1600" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGv8aRWHmjAeaZavmumTxF8LiTYdzKMPc6OxNIg92_nEAkLrxQ1AEFaC9BUdLrwy1l2BQ8noBMaD6RpoavJU9FAdxJ79FGO4y-G9Y5U6hs5xfEF9wcwy9rfPwh9Y43NhlofQf22xrISv4/s320/IMG_3958a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEics3hVaOliSTY8cN__hDFlsJT5KUIx1TQ-8sLgU7IyKmqsH1-IzCrUeZm50FMEKBqNXlZoHxO3rVtCFa94cWGV47EfdQoPa7t2LAczePoYECtfqQToT4XegzWxmbYBsjm1CPDoZkq1ieU/s1600/IMG_3959.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEics3hVaOliSTY8cN__hDFlsJT5KUIx1TQ-8sLgU7IyKmqsH1-IzCrUeZm50FMEKBqNXlZoHxO3rVtCFa94cWGV47EfdQoPa7t2LAczePoYECtfqQToT4XegzWxmbYBsjm1CPDoZkq1ieU/s320/IMG_3959.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpLqcPWozjQhUfPtNwooFQdnuBAj3rKsCA2ZKD0grp6MFPmfx68fwmsfly_cLKkLsiB-Z8KeX9foZAZXQ5FrbWOrZG5WOG50Y1iA0kQ8r1hFCVXrvaL7uHuj9kXAoRCdcckwiEpG0t57U/s1600/IMG_3961.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpLqcPWozjQhUfPtNwooFQdnuBAj3rKsCA2ZKD0grp6MFPmfx68fwmsfly_cLKkLsiB-Z8KeX9foZAZXQ5FrbWOrZG5WOG50Y1iA0kQ8r1hFCVXrvaL7uHuj9kXAoRCdcckwiEpG0t57U/s320/IMG_3961.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRwijhH0aNDykpPnp2u3ieqiAwvWXZoknPCtfMeg2b37T_ktOAQxEpgq_IASGOwxvBOvtlKUVMebBixm1Ko3iCSkGIRZl4VoN_pZDJ69UBn-v40yyD-dTuAkW1BXNgGOPZpbSInVyLsuw/s1600/Brown_74.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1261" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRwijhH0aNDykpPnp2u3ieqiAwvWXZoknPCtfMeg2b37T_ktOAQxEpgq_IASGOwxvBOvtlKUVMebBixm1Ko3iCSkGIRZl4VoN_pZDJ69UBn-v40yyD-dTuAkW1BXNgGOPZpbSInVyLsuw/s320/Brown_74.jpg" width="252" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Next I whip up an apron in heavy green linen. <br />
Likely other aprons it's a large rectangle, whipstitched to a waistband (leaving the ends loose). However, in keeping with my other theatrical cheats, I add a small tuck on either side to coax it into the folds seen in the engraving.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCvlUjj7-eA80Gcfip5PwR7Et9CM4Vw3slF1RRI-9-gzipsrnJmQ2zuK1Mj8f2iwTkEHGsARNZmgUjbhqFzPjhcq7Op0SY7gZQT1xwASKnquClGTFKauQTXApN4ZGVEZOvhfsTW1BGSHI/s1600/IMG_3976a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1074" data-original-width="1600" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCvlUjj7-eA80Gcfip5PwR7Et9CM4Vw3slF1RRI-9-gzipsrnJmQ2zuK1Mj8f2iwTkEHGsARNZmgUjbhqFzPjhcq7Op0SY7gZQT1xwASKnquClGTFKauQTXApN4ZGVEZOvhfsTW1BGSHI/s400/IMG_3976a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lastly, a coif.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've never made a coif before (having purchased all of mine up to this point) so of course I end up choosing an atypical pattern to start with. Most extant examples have the seam at the centre top, but since the inspiration image does not I decide to try my hand at a "Manchester" coif (based on on extend example from the early 17th century) with a seam down the centre back instead.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
First the pattern is cut in lightweight linen and hemmed all the way around.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7qk9FHqxWedUiRjNcQ4CHoRdstfGzJIqlA3VOEQKqqK2e1VfjCN6tB-ke-l-o18ZwWnUno8EeC6l4CpCVsuRS2Gl9kv12dwWsdI-hDo90LK6qylqZZMB6P61P-AyUMJcoiPlNY6NRTo0/s1600/IMG_3938a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1134" data-original-width="1600" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7qk9FHqxWedUiRjNcQ4CHoRdstfGzJIqlA3VOEQKqqK2e1VfjCN6tB-ke-l-o18ZwWnUno8EeC6l4CpCVsuRS2Gl9kv12dwWsdI-hDo90LK6qylqZZMB6P61P-AyUMJcoiPlNY6NRTo0/s320/IMG_3938a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then the back seam is whipstitched together and a lacing channel turned and sewn down.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEialv0d7ANMpB-1qHUbzW59fgsEN9BYeX1fqUwZ8ByVmOMfV7XnlCPkmxtnyYj9uPTAgsu5XHx3lbb4QvnTIi4cGvc7TGGuINpk0l4VgbGsbdA7nA9xalRmt8u9rfKeOv1FAYh_UeCpH74/s1600/DSC03752a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="969" data-original-width="1600" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEialv0d7ANMpB-1qHUbzW59fgsEN9BYeX1fqUwZ8ByVmOMfV7XnlCPkmxtnyYj9uPTAgsu5XHx3lbb4QvnTIi4cGvc7TGGuINpk0l4VgbGsbdA7nA9xalRmt8u9rfKeOv1FAYh_UeCpH74/s320/DSC03752a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The final result has a very 17th century silhouette, but I'm hoping I can mitigate that by starching the front and shaping it over ear irons.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrtMTeoDo81QnLqxIHqWVrbfS8CKyx2sLxbpqPpPtF-jeROlH_au5hWnmpt9jmXee7BufowNK_Vo0NNxyt-y0TuQWuCCeZ5W0InStZ38iny2eRIiVFlU6ZxcWcMpmobES6_d6JVi2gbq8/s1600/IMG_3953a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1412" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrtMTeoDo81QnLqxIHqWVrbfS8CKyx2sLxbpqPpPtF-jeROlH_au5hWnmpt9jmXee7BufowNK_Vo0NNxyt-y0TuQWuCCeZ5W0InStZ38iny2eRIiVFlU6ZxcWcMpmobES6_d6JVi2gbq8/s320/IMG_3953a.jpg" width="282" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVxus1niPuBO3Apv0EO_D6QoSnmd1Kv6wIw159bm84GxqsqPz6GBKhjmVEDO3vi6SVjLKM3r64XxhspJn-U-pqbQ4vzOAP5v6QLo-tMd6z3qejGDPmNYMaBDKSVdDgpfr4Zfs7d6Inhgs/s1600/IMG_3954a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1419" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVxus1niPuBO3Apv0EO_D6QoSnmd1Kv6wIw159bm84GxqsqPz6GBKhjmVEDO3vi6SVjLKM3r64XxhspJn-U-pqbQ4vzOAP5v6QLo-tMd6z3qejGDPmNYMaBDKSVdDgpfr4Zfs7d6Inhgs/s320/IMG_3954a.jpg" width="283" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And finally, just a few more accessories to finish the look...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnbjP3bf3zCNza8-qpyOGyDNTO5JpxWgQdWuxo9D2dWUJ3Mm8BtMfDgjXsUHa7Cvx4AXPU1pcFQuCPphSxZsfW2Xk9m5QHD4S15hjGvE5DGSHbmw6hOVgYDZwSKQMA1y2VCvKg78Shg5c/s1600/IMG_4015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1325" data-original-width="1600" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnbjP3bf3zCNza8-qpyOGyDNTO5JpxWgQdWuxo9D2dWUJ3Mm8BtMfDgjXsUHa7Cvx4AXPU1pcFQuCPphSxZsfW2Xk9m5QHD4S15hjGvE5DGSHbmw6hOVgYDZwSKQMA1y2VCvKg78Shg5c/s320/IMG_4015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Kt5roJrDUIm3bLZvjbUnc9V2SRDnwbU6kXomyve-1s9OQ2iNYw9S0aMNU_8HgFdwvmlZc4V5TfxfrSrqaGxKpEBNLCbSoHocGooXxT0LGp_XaY-tPpUTbVnI4i3bW4Fn7ArkuHhYzLA/s1600/IMG_3992a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Kt5roJrDUIm3bLZvjbUnc9V2SRDnwbU6kXomyve-1s9OQ2iNYw9S0aMNU_8HgFdwvmlZc4V5TfxfrSrqaGxKpEBNLCbSoHocGooXxT0LGp_XaY-tPpUTbVnI4i3bW4Fn7ArkuHhYzLA/s320/IMG_3992a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And that's it! The Trevelyon gown/kirtle-thingy is done!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoat-8_pBsxzAZ_t4DBydHLS4Lzk3Sql_ywv7YaF9zFZQYpukyaxAyOq2W1AnsyJQ4wqHAq6Su-eeo0zk_XKBQvMEt4lBgmVPPjbE_o7mr61vmbjK7v9buXgqIjskFeap7Jx77K6-ViY8/s1600/Blue_03+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1059" data-original-width="1289" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoat-8_pBsxzAZ_t4DBydHLS4Lzk3Sql_ywv7YaF9zFZQYpukyaxAyOq2W1AnsyJQ4wqHAq6Su-eeo0zk_XKBQvMEt4lBgmVPPjbE_o7mr61vmbjK7v9buXgqIjskFeap7Jx77K6-ViY8/s400/Blue_03+copy.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And ended up reasonably close to the inspiration image...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIl4jZzzo8IGOIvXls06d5BV5VIn71DNkakNVHQE8OnFwpqX2r-7TM56bXzXOfrZXqTf-ykfymsZ_C_1MVxjCvvxPokezFHlf_tx0UXs10ZU8L33OSTI70jpLleS49iIIdAQ2vRuvg4qU/s1600/Blue_05b+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="886" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIl4jZzzo8IGOIvXls06d5BV5VIn71DNkakNVHQE8OnFwpqX2r-7TM56bXzXOfrZXqTf-ykfymsZ_C_1MVxjCvvxPokezFHlf_tx0UXs10ZU8L33OSTI70jpLleS49iIIdAQ2vRuvg4qU/s400/Blue_05b+copy.jpeg" width="221" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YQkbwuRO0Nk31WyB10BvxlvLMSTDcazJLK7QNkDQyzerUAuZzfPuvOZwIKl53QvVTTbnjvK76u9ClJXqOQmjVjdOHkd_StAbkfpnxlyJACf_uz-I8hSpjD4lIFQni7Z3QpchpFzLTfM/s1600/Blue_06c.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="868" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YQkbwuRO0Nk31WyB10BvxlvLMSTDcazJLK7QNkDQyzerUAuZzfPuvOZwIKl53QvVTTbnjvK76u9ClJXqOQmjVjdOHkd_StAbkfpnxlyJACf_uz-I8hSpjD4lIFQni7Z3QpchpFzLTfM/s400/Blue_06c.jpg" width="216" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Some takeaways...<br />
<br />
The sleeves are too tight and needed to be opened up at the wrist by about an inch...and even so remain a bit snug. However, the good thing about whip stitching a finished sleeve into the armscye is that it's very easy to swap out later if it really bugs me.<br />
<br />
As you can see the skirt is far too long. I'd measured it in a shoes with a higher heel, but even taking that into consideration the front could still stand to be shortened by at least 1/2". <br />
<br />
Finally, the top of the bust is too high and comes to too much of a point...and as usual, my coif is migrating towards the back of my head (since I don't have enough hair to do proper hair taping).<br />
<br />
But apart from all that I think it turned out okay!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvY3x4m_-4JV5_CNol6hhL5qrwEFg6ZbAqPznNMUIrp7EMAksrNZYfIWNKXPdrF7lPQgleNJef4DWDM7yOXYeVy6hZ_bzeuTm4zuY3U7C7qa3JthB4kCAFZ0DLM82TmDJZ4HFyGRteHw/s1600/Blue_07+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="902" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvY3x4m_-4JV5_CNol6hhL5qrwEFg6ZbAqPznNMUIrp7EMAksrNZYfIWNKXPdrF7lPQgleNJef4DWDM7yOXYeVy6hZ_bzeuTm4zuY3U7C7qa3JthB4kCAFZ0DLM82TmDJZ4HFyGRteHw/s400/Blue_07+copy.jpeg" width="225" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdENn2zH81EjTNs7Koay4sQdhX-mpbDHxmUI2tcj46_3DeTgDZS2_QTsWAl3stfmm1l4bVrk3Jd2UE3-oB34irylPWjbjmSilvUvACGwcntOvaqAnms1l8hp59lsQ7KCWR8f5A5YNRg_w/s1600/Blue_08+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="879" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdENn2zH81EjTNs7Koay4sQdhX-mpbDHxmUI2tcj46_3DeTgDZS2_QTsWAl3stfmm1l4bVrk3Jd2UE3-oB34irylPWjbjmSilvUvACGwcntOvaqAnms1l8hp59lsQ7KCWR8f5A5YNRg_w/s400/Blue_08+copy.jpeg" width="218" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4KefxB0dCowkhJPN2MGQZ9BQyo5OFLkJfV8fw2hwGWtqKC0itZdJULGg9AhBWz9XlgRcTO3HhNWN_J-3SyiGIM7pmFuIfC_naKu2-Z6axNxuZx2jR-N3m1FVYTovGoA8wF3tnhw85YOM/s1600/Blue_13+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="936" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4KefxB0dCowkhJPN2MGQZ9BQyo5OFLkJfV8fw2hwGWtqKC0itZdJULGg9AhBWz9XlgRcTO3HhNWN_J-3SyiGIM7pmFuIfC_naKu2-Z6axNxuZx2jR-N3m1FVYTovGoA8wF3tnhw85YOM/s400/Blue_13+copy.jpeg" width="233" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8D0RtbIpC-JLQP_RvRKBMq903MvYkdA4nT-NhaIYZvoOttcyn57w5bLNGUfAxCiNRuEHWxw10oYMNy21GhSRGBncZRv2-plb51nCmz_mnl-pQ9d6bZqwgsBSKmwBCTcyuV-6YyK54238/s1600/Blue_14+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="907" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8D0RtbIpC-JLQP_RvRKBMq903MvYkdA4nT-NhaIYZvoOttcyn57w5bLNGUfAxCiNRuEHWxw10oYMNy21GhSRGBncZRv2-plb51nCmz_mnl-pQ9d6bZqwgsBSKmwBCTcyuV-6YyK54238/s400/Blue_14+copy.jpeg" width="226" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3T_Kj_zXw5BJgy1golGD_3XI70nzdzUHpZOhk5xC1XDC97nuCNG3E-seZDugh-3OPaDiiSuUuXfG_FZ2BxVjptLsTX3jYSuHWDADHLDCfP8zRlrfhwbtTTeJatRv2D5p3wj_NpakOJl8/s1600/Blue_09+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="946" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3T_Kj_zXw5BJgy1golGD_3XI70nzdzUHpZOhk5xC1XDC97nuCNG3E-seZDugh-3OPaDiiSuUuXfG_FZ2BxVjptLsTX3jYSuHWDADHLDCfP8zRlrfhwbtTTeJatRv2D5p3wj_NpakOJl8/s400/Blue_09+copy.jpeg" width="236" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjobDO8_30lgs22aYiqwzCFXW7iVfvQ1DZBn52vXONqU0pvYqAOVUP6CQBbelXQDS_rdOPULAbJycQ5q5SMn27MR8rhROM1cwBTLDTZ6GW-kBBmhooqrE_gyDTmik_jTGN35IPE6qqDtak/s1600/Blue_10+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="946" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjobDO8_30lgs22aYiqwzCFXW7iVfvQ1DZBn52vXONqU0pvYqAOVUP6CQBbelXQDS_rdOPULAbJycQ5q5SMn27MR8rhROM1cwBTLDTZ6GW-kBBmhooqrE_gyDTmik_jTGN35IPE6qqDtak/s400/Blue_10+copy.jpeg" width="236" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbfXKysD_sIpu1lGZDup4AvQ0xzUl10nCqNf8r7IZw3ZvnUXxmT2UbjI7oVyLDHxvHVYhKPeVFw5dlReTyEJGEVTnJzROstB5zKwm7zrakEb-G8Ndzh0nF319uQnq76kXS0qDlR6UJbE/s1600/Blue_12+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1083" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbfXKysD_sIpu1lGZDup4AvQ0xzUl10nCqNf8r7IZw3ZvnUXxmT2UbjI7oVyLDHxvHVYhKPeVFw5dlReTyEJGEVTnJzROstB5zKwm7zrakEb-G8Ndzh0nF319uQnq76kXS0qDlR6UJbE/s400/Blue_12+copy.jpeg" width="270" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaQR_dnOCtzd2ejf8TwdqkJ6TRlK65YVFWoJ3aB7xpvBHKg7DYWPJAfGJfCagiUNpQWM1xb3cLn7tmbe6vVxmILy9YdqZg7ihHw7_1i9rV2p97SyYrmvW4Y9UtCQT0O_yY1rG-SE943oc/s1600/Blue_11a+copy.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1023" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaQR_dnOCtzd2ejf8TwdqkJ6TRlK65YVFWoJ3aB7xpvBHKg7DYWPJAfGJfCagiUNpQWM1xb3cLn7tmbe6vVxmILy9YdqZg7ihHw7_1i9rV2p97SyYrmvW4Y9UtCQT0O_yY1rG-SE943oc/s400/Blue_11a+copy.jpeg" width="255" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Pattern: </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-<a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/">The Tudor Tailor</a> (book and/or ready-made pattern)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-<a href="http://www.marquisofwinchesters.co.uk/2017/01/23/living-history-guide-coifs-and-hair/">The Marquess of Winchester</a> Coif #4</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Fabric:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Blue worsted wool from B.Blacks & Sons</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Dark blue linen from B.Blacks & Sons</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Green "Vineyard" linen (7.1oz) from <a href="https://fabrics-store.com/fabrics/linen-fabric-4C22-vineyard-green-softened-heavy/">Fabric-Store.com</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-White "Barry" linen (4.5 oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Hemp/cotton muslin for interlining (10.5) from <a href="http://www.hemptraders.com/">Hemp Traders</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Muslin for mockup (also from Hemp Traders, but any muslin should do)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Trim and Notions:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Dark Blue Worsted Wool tape (7/8") from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Linen tape (1/4") from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Thread:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Black silk thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Blue silk thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Black buttonhole thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Green cotton thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-White cotton thread (silk finish) for coif and partlets</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Boning:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-7mm Plastic coated spring steel bones (4) from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=68&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">-5mm Synthetic whalebone also from <a href="http://www.venacavadesign.biz/VCD_shop/index.php?id_product=137&controller=product">Vena Cava Design</a></div></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Other Supplies:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Swedish pattern paper from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sewable-Swedish-Tracing-Paper-Inches/dp/B000PNEWVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383452754&sr=8-1&keywords=swiss+pattern+paper">Amazon</a>. (This stuff is great! You can iron it!)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Pattern weights</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Eyelet tape (for mockup)</div>
Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-43732963927131283202018-05-13T13:49:00.003-07:002020-11-29T07:15:44.516-08:00Update!<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
Eeeash...It's been nearly a year since my last post!<br />
<br />
I've been very bad about keeping this blog updated. A new job (and commute) has been taking up quite a lot of my time and sewing has really taken a back seat. <br />
<br />
However!<br />
I have several projects that are <i>*this*</i> close to being complete, I just need to finish off a few accessories or seams.<br />
<br />
This includes:<br />
-A black loose gown which just needs to be hemmed (and have one sleeve re-set)<br />
-A black fitted gown that is completely done, I just need to finish off a few more accessories so I can do another <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2017/04/brown-fitted-gown-mix-n-matching-and.html">"Mix n' Match"</a>.<br />
-A pair of black bodies which are done (but still thinking about adding some tabs to)<br />
-Two new ruffs, one of which is done and the other is hemmed and pleated, it just needs to be sewn into a collar.<br />
-And finally, a blue kirtle which still needs a quite a bit of work, but all the hard bits (like boning and pad-stitching) are done and I could probably finish it off over the course of a long weekend.<br />
<br />
So things are happening...but nothing is in a state to be documented.<br />
<br />
In the meantime, here is a photo from last week's Faire!<br />
(I finally made a pair of sleeves to go with my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/01/beige-brown-kirtle-with-grey-guards.html">Beige/Brown</a> kirtle)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEd4G6nRpIdKvLWMoIIhnTtC7HP1EdfAblhoW0PFe6tO4y2Nwfi-z81vYsArMztRg8PCsJffwfVzd0HgEaNJvCNf0F1vyARoLjiziNRYdpoAawSfWBaHdFnE2PTH0VojkSR7I-2yzqN38/s1600/kirtle_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="974" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEd4G6nRpIdKvLWMoIIhnTtC7HP1EdfAblhoW0PFe6tO4y2Nwfi-z81vYsArMztRg8PCsJffwfVzd0HgEaNJvCNf0F1vyARoLjiziNRYdpoAawSfWBaHdFnE2PTH0VojkSR7I-2yzqN38/s640/kirtle_c.jpg" width="388" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
That's it for now! Hopefully more to follow soon...</div>
<br />Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-8980508409915859152017-06-04T18:58:00.000-07:002017-07-22T14:25:46.443-07:00Blue Waistcoat (v5.0) "Lost in a Crowd"<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
Another Faire season has come to an end and I was <i>really</i> hoping to have my 1590s gown finished in time for the last weekend.<br />
However, about a week out it was clear that I just didn't have enough time to get the various pieces finished and assembled, so I decided to do a last minute pivot back to my trusty <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2014/04/late-period-blue-wool-wasitcoatjacket.html">blue waistcoat</a>.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqn1oHMqrYWsp2xp6WYJG7DAAKja6gTl1L7At3VP2N4CmuRNfOQbMv_966e5HoWYZi3coJi6y03Rgt5plDTbkH0Mcv6ZoR9QOqUENg8oBP-kFtKRZQsA4glIGH7Oy4uwTUGvMeo1zFZHc/s1600/Crowd_01E.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="911" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqn1oHMqrYWsp2xp6WYJG7DAAKja6gTl1L7At3VP2N4CmuRNfOQbMv_966e5HoWYZi3coJi6y03Rgt5plDTbkH0Mcv6ZoR9QOqUENg8oBP-kFtKRZQsA4glIGH7Oy4uwTUGvMeo1zFZHc/s400/Crowd_01E.jpg" width="227" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
About a year ago I spotted a little girl wearing a blue waistcoat (or possibly a doublet) in the crowd of Denis van Alsloot's epic "Festival of our Lady of the Woods" (1616).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7eRz-kXYYBEOMyuMb97aJIxCTNR1nN037I4lP93X8EOhzd91oHHihcJLdaNuFGlXKDvUKsyttfrpkP9se46KrUL7191poAor5z4aND9EanN2P6_GXrwwzxr1rieW924a0ygv-R-II_I/s1600/Denis_van_Alsloot_-_Feast_of_Our_Lady_of_the_Woods.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1041" data-original-width="1600" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7eRz-kXYYBEOMyuMb97aJIxCTNR1nN037I4lP93X8EOhzd91oHHihcJLdaNuFGlXKDvUKsyttfrpkP9se46KrUL7191poAor5z4aND9EanN2P6_GXrwwzxr1rieW924a0ygv-R-II_I/s320/Denis_van_Alsloot_-_Feast_of_Our_Lady_of_the_Woods.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_iGADt_H1useID3-ksx-DEH75NkPa3cj60XmF5h_swNWpv7azjZu2woxbe4ETMWbsr-jsTNDCgnKpbmmxNoIec3JN20iAiL0ZJlTw03GHkHFw9sNvfXLqk1J34ygHEHUlKk7CEP54UWQ/s1600/857a74fb5c0d9120c9064d8e5dc65d42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="374" data-original-width="564" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_iGADt_H1useID3-ksx-DEH75NkPa3cj60XmF5h_swNWpv7azjZu2woxbe4ETMWbsr-jsTNDCgnKpbmmxNoIec3JN20iAiL0ZJlTw03GHkHFw9sNvfXLqk1J34ygHEHUlKk7CEP54UWQ/s320/857a74fb5c0d9120c9064d8e5dc65d42.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcV_tfqT80Os2KcJY7F0B5rbAP4bmK8Tg35XIEOPbgBXjP6QVPoyXk4X-hLPnwdAvPY13xPEGTT7Ltk-3pTW27Mk7c2aTVub5-DUXRZVzbHAoi77LJvVGfupbo8D7tzxYwFQe3e-pWgqM/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-03-06+at+10.01.49+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="308" data-original-width="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcV_tfqT80Os2KcJY7F0B5rbAP4bmK8Tg35XIEOPbgBXjP6QVPoyXk4X-hLPnwdAvPY13xPEGTT7Ltk-3pTW27Mk7c2aTVub5-DUXRZVzbHAoi77LJvVGfupbo8D7tzxYwFQe3e-pWgqM/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-03-06+at+10.01.49+PM.png" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I really liked the colour combination and decided that since I had most of the pieces already all I would have do would be make a kirtle and standing collar.<br />
And since the outfit had been in the back of my mind for a while I even had a brown/mustard wool on hand and ready to go...so figured it would be easy.<br />
Famous last words.<br />
<br />
Of course, I nearly scupper the whole thing almost immediately by accidentally felling my wool by washing it hot and throwing it in the dryer (I had been pre-shrinking a ton of linen earlier in the day and my brain must have been on auto-pilot). Not only did it end up ridiculously thick, but the colour changed slightly and darkened so the it no longer resembled the original image as closely.<br />
<br />
I nearly abandoned the whole thing right then and there, but cooler heads (not mine) prevailed and convince me to make do and soldier on. <br />
I do, however, abandon the idea of a kirtle as being too time consuming a project to waste on fabric I don't really like (and let's be honest, given my usual timeframe doing a kirtle in a week would have been pushing it anyway). So I make a petticoat instead. <br />
Since I'm not very keen on the fabric I decide to be slightly wasteful in order to save time and cut the skirt across the grain in one long strip, rather than cutting two pieces and joining them along the selvages. So the final petticoat is just over 120" wide, with a single seam at the centre back.<br />
<br />
The top of the skirt is folded over by about 3" (with the selvage edge left untreated) and cartridge pleated to a linen canvas waistband.<br />
I tried to leave the front 8" or so flat, as I usually do with my linen petticoats...but the fabric had felled so thickly that I couldn't squeeze all the pleats in and I didn't want to make the pleats much bigger since I was afraid that would effect the fit at the waist by pushing the waistline up. So instead I fully pleated the front section with small 1/4" cartridge pleats. Because these smaller pleats are almost indistinguishable from the larger 1/2" pleats when viewed from the outside I decide to run a row of running stitches at the centre front of the waistband to aid in dressing later.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJbz_Uv4C13or3y7pk6wN24Ud2lw-FKdFmGUW7XoX1Ga5GTB8NqH9BDj_vY_NyxnqF6mzKJ0qDCW-q9wPgsa85zO9cB8229CZ9ubprq-GTMuWmnVQYDwhOozcyTEPoxf9sS5qk57xnKk/s1600/skirt2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="1600" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJbz_Uv4C13or3y7pk6wN24Ud2lw-FKdFmGUW7XoX1Ga5GTB8NqH9BDj_vY_NyxnqF6mzKJ0qDCW-q9wPgsa85zO9cB8229CZ9ubprq-GTMuWmnVQYDwhOozcyTEPoxf9sS5qk57xnKk/s320/skirt2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7qtp7T075rDij0WRzWWVll7bxzK-MehXyCYLdKIrHXzGTwuxsQBUKPq1eOdOK8ToTi3EoqR_WC6FX-3Ueb0YmEkgIdlx-Pr3kMk29ziOPtdMrvBlrZPCq3Fz4VRbO5DdUZ3x0Wj-lxc/s1600/skirt4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1600" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7qtp7T075rDij0WRzWWVll7bxzK-MehXyCYLdKIrHXzGTwuxsQBUKPq1eOdOK8ToTi3EoqR_WC6FX-3Ueb0YmEkgIdlx-Pr3kMk29ziOPtdMrvBlrZPCq3Fz4VRbO5DdUZ3x0Wj-lxc/s320/skirt4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Then the skirt is bound in self fabric tape and --like the original painting-- is trimmed with 5 rows of guarding, in this case 3/8" black wool herringbone tape.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LPgoQ3DKtQpvLQ9hZXSlQqd6b7-XqYwz9440yMprteGrLHE5JytHVzMNCRfIUT2oWtKQdUMe3k807_6cOR0-jCsvuJm1ZvPxRXdU5yFcbG3SAGsmo6UZs00SoDlM5T-szweoXg4QdiI/s1600/skirt3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1600" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LPgoQ3DKtQpvLQ9hZXSlQqd6b7-XqYwz9440yMprteGrLHE5JytHVzMNCRfIUT2oWtKQdUMe3k807_6cOR0-jCsvuJm1ZvPxRXdU5yFcbG3SAGsmo6UZs00SoDlM5T-szweoXg4QdiI/s320/skirt3.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQCCBgGyMr8o8bEdiimJzrhH7UVws5Hw39sabU6qtiBIIJr-n1wIW3fRNFUMJXIBg1ellMdJZ1H7P_4jA6TfD4qTsrrDIuVj1TgCxo2wFqE_7YhiOd3utcLEFwGJ3QFrs6dGU6pkSvs1I/s1600/skirt1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="934" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQCCBgGyMr8o8bEdiimJzrhH7UVws5Hw39sabU6qtiBIIJr-n1wIW3fRNFUMJXIBg1ellMdJZ1H7P_4jA6TfD4qTsrrDIuVj1TgCxo2wFqE_7YhiOd3utcLEFwGJ3QFrs6dGU6pkSvs1I/s320/skirt1.jpg" width="186" /></a></div>
<br />
However, the proportions are a bit off...<br />
In the painting the trim comes up to roughly the girl's knees, whereas mine only reach the mid-calf.<br />
I suppose I could have used wider tape or spaced it further apart, but that would have created other balance issues and I worried adding more trim might start to look odd with adult proportions. <br />
And since the trim is in keeping with several Hollar etchings I decide to leave well enough alone.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMZMD9vhWegeKA2SifyjJ192pmZm4JgC9IuvAFH4dRB7qVfLio2Ebxy_3eH9jvukVG3o-3UYL96sYl82OiX2qGjVkSRpFkCA7blPgfwfJcVDBvnag2q8jPklkNusRKvPGrqKYq_9Ja0hI/s1600/1d1ed233dfa41a0e37a74db40b9f0424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="881" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMZMD9vhWegeKA2SifyjJ192pmZm4JgC9IuvAFH4dRB7qVfLio2Ebxy_3eH9jvukVG3o-3UYL96sYl82OiX2qGjVkSRpFkCA7blPgfwfJcVDBvnag2q8jPklkNusRKvPGrqKYq_9Ja0hI/s320/1d1ed233dfa41a0e37a74db40b9f0424.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3SA5yD59csE79Y7GZTpFwA-R3jPcjh_UeXYyNkLz2Tti_2mekOJ1Etu3saSl32ryDatS2Mx97rtmN8VdlozRZ_lgjjmCzUca022dM4iIvd4TReJaF5gHHAeMxm9yu-9X2o-dV7GVTB3s/s1600/19a9d3c3d96925bf0370dae792caf200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="843" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3SA5yD59csE79Y7GZTpFwA-R3jPcjh_UeXYyNkLz2Tti_2mekOJ1Etu3saSl32ryDatS2Mx97rtmN8VdlozRZ_lgjjmCzUca022dM4iIvd4TReJaF5gHHAeMxm9yu-9X2o-dV7GVTB3s/s320/19a9d3c3d96925bf0370dae792caf200.jpg" width="214" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
After the palava with the petticoat it's clear I don't have time to experiment with making a large standing collar for the first time.<br />
So instead I make a large linen shoulder square to roughly fill the same visual white space.<br />
The kerchief is 30" square with a 1/8" hem all around.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX0BVhgX1ybo3QxbBgpsfAZRPxSCpPZb3-SZb8GSb4a2Kgd45GuANI-6WJTw-wup0GMLiDUe7bOqbrygyUxXNejvYILCjoC0SkmdmPQHvbWQD4mvKWeZV45tnvjirdABtx7-zsqgKdZZs/s1600/square1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1108" data-original-width="1600" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX0BVhgX1ybo3QxbBgpsfAZRPxSCpPZb3-SZb8GSb4a2Kgd45GuANI-6WJTw-wup0GMLiDUe7bOqbrygyUxXNejvYILCjoC0SkmdmPQHvbWQD4mvKWeZV45tnvjirdABtx7-zsqgKdZZs/s320/square1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit778T7ufT9_WNbqPnnwNgoP-Fbn23-2vXBiVE1GQhFEDcOg6wKeOeT_NmSBa82Rdmut012wPCSe2YMRlYyrUzcZY9QGLWI6NqNYySSXV7XN26hwvDjDS0JzczRTXbZOq8ECLJga6RP_o/s1600/square2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit778T7ufT9_WNbqPnnwNgoP-Fbn23-2vXBiVE1GQhFEDcOg6wKeOeT_NmSBa82Rdmut012wPCSe2YMRlYyrUzcZY9QGLWI6NqNYySSXV7XN26hwvDjDS0JzczRTXbZOq8ECLJga6RP_o/s320/square2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
However, this pushes the overall silhouette more into the 1630s/40s (and closer to my original inspiration image way back when I first decided to make a waistcoat)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DhvINIVN2aHLqEfToOtY1d0Dsv270PFskT_sQWWnJ0AWcfBNLEKtAkVXGNTQsk4zwN8bmcAxfKWLG-uyP5UONpz306Gysel_Kb7CavlKh8mf-9PMlU0D45mYOhodi03sax1ew12qRpo/s1600/english_country_woman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="550" data-original-width="350" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DhvINIVN2aHLqEfToOtY1d0Dsv270PFskT_sQWWnJ0AWcfBNLEKtAkVXGNTQsk4zwN8bmcAxfKWLG-uyP5UONpz306Gysel_Kb7CavlKh8mf-9PMlU0D45mYOhodi03sax1ew12qRpo/s320/english_country_woman.jpg" width="203" /></a></div>
<br />
Finally, I had planned to use the straw hat and apron from the last <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2015/12/blue-waistcoat-version-40-now-with-ruff.html">waistcoat ensemble</a>, but in the end the apron was a tad too grey and the hat too fragile to wear at Faire.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi38cuB_y3NSbVVgm1bPR-m6tI9Ehyphenhyphen417SJyV-M1dfpb3zna30QVrVOVyTMH9nXO_HRJLRnQ3VdSRhC7vOZypuZcaXYGM-w0AGqZUnWuryvUVTAjD7w-cWpPySyIckQuNOSucjzHoOXc0o/s1600/Redpetticoat_001c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1014" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi38cuB_y3NSbVVgm1bPR-m6tI9Ehyphenhyphen417SJyV-M1dfpb3zna30QVrVOVyTMH9nXO_HRJLRnQ3VdSRhC7vOZypuZcaXYGM-w0AGqZUnWuryvUVTAjD7w-cWpPySyIckQuNOSucjzHoOXc0o/s320/Redpetticoat_001c.jpg" width="202" /></a></div>
<br />
So I whip up a new apron in a slightly brighter, more "sea-foamy" blue linen...which is top-stitched in blue linen thread for an extra bit of visual interest.<br />
The apron is 36"x28" with just under 1/4" hems at the side and 3/8" at the bottom. Unlike the above apron, this one is full gathered to a waistband (which is 8.5" wide).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHbKQyT5r-TPIsZ8wfbJd4EdG43HFGTM9T7vztwnB8iWlO0ol_99anSxmitt5cu1iLCEbgxFyE7MRbBfpW7yC1LLyXjmvULrDonhNE0HnplhnM1dRU-22CB3IoMaHhf7rhyphenhyphenF67_f97lhw/s1600/apron1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="953" data-original-width="1600" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHbKQyT5r-TPIsZ8wfbJd4EdG43HFGTM9T7vztwnB8iWlO0ol_99anSxmitt5cu1iLCEbgxFyE7MRbBfpW7yC1LLyXjmvULrDonhNE0HnplhnM1dRU-22CB3IoMaHhf7rhyphenhyphenF67_f97lhw/s320/apron1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU_SwnhwRtI7Doig3tAM2HHvjlRvq0muEO5dkDN9A7r3oNhoFiM8cIoZKa_AIXP5hHTzw4ua3pTRu0y58cAZeCUpcRtpHt-9bmjq5NEQhLj6RME5cUFuUSJ1fVznYHQMOElezrARV2vRE/s1600/apron2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="947" data-original-width="1600" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU_SwnhwRtI7Doig3tAM2HHvjlRvq0muEO5dkDN9A7r3oNhoFiM8cIoZKa_AIXP5hHTzw4ua3pTRu0y58cAZeCUpcRtpHt-9bmjq5NEQhLj6RME5cUFuUSJ1fVznYHQMOElezrARV2vRE/s320/apron2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
My favourite straw hat (which is the most perfect period shape I've<i> ever</i> been able to find!) was sadly damaged due to careless packaging during shipping (which I'm still miffed about).<br />
I worry it won't survive the trip to Faire and I don't want to damage it further by having to put pins in it to keep it on my head when the wind picks up. So I have a week to find a replacement.<br />
I briefly toy with the idea of re-blocking an old straw hat...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIQ6bnr6Z6i-boph46NpK_Kn4u08Zgpv6Ko1XgcXA32T-CkOtIQjjejh0gGgIfi3BUKhC028wbFTPstGjSBGBeb2U5cqrXMOzKHiAhWSM_V2dRlEQ7NDJagO9AfgJ2rUitcAp8talNp4/s1600/hat1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="588" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIQ6bnr6Z6i-boph46NpK_Kn4u08Zgpv6Ko1XgcXA32T-CkOtIQjjejh0gGgIfi3BUKhC028wbFTPstGjSBGBeb2U5cqrXMOzKHiAhWSM_V2dRlEQ7NDJagO9AfgJ2rUitcAp8talNp4/s320/hat1.jpg" width="297" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
...but then I lucked out with an Etsy find at the last minute. It's not as tall as I would have liked, but the shape is about right for similar hats in the period.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiguEBugy5KAtoqmtV4DcyObr8HhVtbIZIdy4_l3eF38Txq4JgrXFBsAr6lMuAquyc9j7emIUew2NtCYeIh2kEb-8V2JGYehNuFzLAf_LC0mI0g9DmaLlTggcEdjWMnA4_85LNmOrQc7AY/s1600/hat4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="821" data-original-width="616" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiguEBugy5KAtoqmtV4DcyObr8HhVtbIZIdy4_l3eF38Txq4JgrXFBsAr6lMuAquyc9j7emIUew2NtCYeIh2kEb-8V2JGYehNuFzLAf_LC0mI0g9DmaLlTggcEdjWMnA4_85LNmOrQc7AY/s320/hat4.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I just have time to remove the original trim, stitch the back brim into place and cut a piece of linen bias tape for the hat band. It frays like mad, but it'll have to do!<br />
<br />
Finally, the foundation layers include my low necked smock, grey linen bodies and small bum roll (though really, I could have left off the roll since I think it ended up pushing the back of the jacket up a bit, causing it to bunch at the waist).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNxQt5qDIIbVIuUApUgMW0vCslWBXW_-VFkGD4JyVNYo7oviG9yRhYrZPpRkEPwyXpBXj6JAU3hIcyd_y-Eu_dmlbnxvjTjoPUsxlNuQ11NxuhDTt1z_c7AzBEBUuxJGZYSlT9iSafrAY/s1600/corset4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1204" data-original-width="1400" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNxQt5qDIIbVIuUApUgMW0vCslWBXW_-VFkGD4JyVNYo7oviG9yRhYrZPpRkEPwyXpBXj6JAU3hIcyd_y-Eu_dmlbnxvjTjoPUsxlNuQ11NxuhDTt1z_c7AzBEBUuxJGZYSlT9iSafrAY/s320/corset4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhGrkIB6jlcKxIiLJqBLFL5fZERgMoHxQmyq27tgXttharwB1ZsVIuyTOfoom4zS_9I6bqPCUV2OYg6-A72ajpR-Zz4-HFJM86dFghza7V5IsL4FhQaLFqTx_2gmYD7-lwyZUDz8704I/s1600/diary-k-70.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1154" data-original-width="1600" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhGrkIB6jlcKxIiLJqBLFL5fZERgMoHxQmyq27tgXttharwB1ZsVIuyTOfoom4zS_9I6bqPCUV2OYg6-A72ajpR-Zz4-HFJM86dFghza7V5IsL4FhQaLFqTx_2gmYD7-lwyZUDz8704I/s320/diary-k-70.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjayMToIveM53xmFDjbQExgXxvG582G0c_kJi2NonJQObx9Aas6hTac0JMFbEQ7vhC8SukQsP7Un-mblEYC-Xg2D-RGgEcEKlCuw_R0lESRzNm34i8WnQGWO8TRMUTO9syMYZDlGqiQ6ow/s1600/smock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="936" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjayMToIveM53xmFDjbQExgXxvG582G0c_kJi2NonJQObx9Aas6hTac0JMFbEQ7vhC8SukQsP7Un-mblEYC-Xg2D-RGgEcEKlCuw_R0lESRzNm34i8WnQGWO8TRMUTO9syMYZDlGqiQ6ow/s320/smock.jpg" width="187" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="text-align: center;">In the end it's a bit of a hodgepodge of an outfit, but I really like the simple, bold colour palette and finish just in time for the final weekend!</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOp7FVQvOHq4dd1k50fTre-LXQ8a8ywZHWAp0mF-3aOGY1o-X8w8oGw0MERko26QO59Vh4BB0zEV3DkqppNhsSYcRjHFfrLP_S0sMq22LRKZS6MkzQRGa1jtrl2kqkmV0fBp_Znuz8ORA/s1600/Crowd_02a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="918" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOp7FVQvOHq4dd1k50fTre-LXQ8a8ywZHWAp0mF-3aOGY1o-X8w8oGw0MERko26QO59Vh4BB0zEV3DkqppNhsSYcRjHFfrLP_S0sMq22LRKZS6MkzQRGa1jtrl2kqkmV0fBp_Znuz8ORA/s400/Crowd_02a.jpg" width="228" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizpvOxLc18oHD1_WaD2t6jiKtwy-JOQDR890qa6Rx4tr2TizYKG5YlnfGDbrCAICHI26NPoYiC3TK5RNFmIz6msEcQjCT42aI4NXgbFcu2y5DfT7OI9yxhEEuvac5u4GKRF-eovTTlvH0/s1600/Crowd_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="918" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizpvOxLc18oHD1_WaD2t6jiKtwy-JOQDR890qa6Rx4tr2TizYKG5YlnfGDbrCAICHI26NPoYiC3TK5RNFmIz6msEcQjCT42aI4NXgbFcu2y5DfT7OI9yxhEEuvac5u4GKRF-eovTTlvH0/s400/Crowd_03.jpg" width="228" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3KwQElIlTW1pqmZbLgWrNIdypn0untD6Pgenc5mZLaxqCw-cXaGfZwicadT_Qvr8az-1cDAVVLhFX5Rlg2Yl5b8VE5br_pXkT8ll4NovQJcEkI1U0TYa2B0jLXj-639h74ssXUl8bSoA/s1600/Crowd_04a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="917" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3KwQElIlTW1pqmZbLgWrNIdypn0untD6Pgenc5mZLaxqCw-cXaGfZwicadT_Qvr8az-1cDAVVLhFX5Rlg2Yl5b8VE5br_pXkT8ll4NovQJcEkI1U0TYa2B0jLXj-639h74ssXUl8bSoA/s400/Crowd_04a.jpg" width="228" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWT_vWxkpLrUwS6bYL1d5JgjZN7QEkdbKczla2rFsYDL8Gw90mc0YovvMivOMJDtTIofEtA7vR9Ft2ymuav5D9w1lksSVfHXZZ5FBBt1-5iFpRh-y6SsUKk2x-lpyG0qirfsXOMBcAKw/s1600/Crowd_05a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="918" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNWT_vWxkpLrUwS6bYL1d5JgjZN7QEkdbKczla2rFsYDL8Gw90mc0YovvMivOMJDtTIofEtA7vR9Ft2ymuav5D9w1lksSVfHXZZ5FBBt1-5iFpRh-y6SsUKk2x-lpyG0qirfsXOMBcAKw/s400/Crowd_05a.jpg" width="228" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Unfortunately, the temperature hit 97 degrees that weekend and so nearly the whole outfit had to be abandoned for fear of heatstroke...which after the terrible time I had at NorCal 3 years ago is something I'm hyper aware of.<br />
So I spent most of the first day in my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2017/01/petticoat-bodies.html">red petticoat bodies</a> and skipped the second day altogether. (The hat did come in handy though)<br />
<br />
I still plan to finish the standing collar eventually (since it will come in handy for some future outfits I have in the queue) and who knows, maybe I'll even turn the petticoat into a kirtle at some point in the future...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
***</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Fabric:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-"Dirty Beige" wool suiting from <a href="http://www.moodfabrics.com/">Mood Fabrics</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-White linen (2.8oz) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Baby Blue handkerchief linen (3.7oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Trim and Notions:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Back Worsted Wool tape (3/8") from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Thread:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Black silk thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Beige silk thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-White cotton thread (silk finish)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Blue Londonderry linen thread from <a href="https://www.threadneedlestreet.com/linthrd.htm">Threadneedle Street</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-54736934822367843652017-04-22T23:23:00.001-07:002017-07-05T13:28:17.479-07:00Brown Fitted Gown (v3.0) "1559 Doesburch Portrait"<div style="text-align: center;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
***</div>
</div>
Here is the second of my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2017/04/brown-fitted-gown-mix-n-matching-and.html">Mix n' Match</a> posts featuring the re-styling of my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/07/brown-fitted-gown.html">brown fitted gown</a>.<br />
While I've incorporated several reoccurring elements and accessories from similar images, it's primarily an homage to the 1559 Doesburch family portrait.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqQuHYO0NIjQ6zBF_yJa_NnQFJKPU542ovhlcaCy0bR2WkUOBz171IcAJSlL5TKVwu0lQM_ExYb0E3ktJAFFweFtXrzmCs96cNSAPJVH8_MdwTAdPw7CVELZhAKt8SyzTn_HUs8ADyN_A/s1600/Fitted-compare-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="323" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqQuHYO0NIjQ6zBF_yJa_NnQFJKPU542ovhlcaCy0bR2WkUOBz171IcAJSlL5TKVwu0lQM_ExYb0E3ktJAFFweFtXrzmCs96cNSAPJVH8_MdwTAdPw7CVELZhAKt8SyzTn_HUs8ADyN_A/s400/Fitted-compare-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I really love how this one turned out! <br />
While I liked the colour palette of my original gown ensemble, I find I'm really enjoying my attempts at reproducing period images and much prefer the final results (and I think this might be my most successful version to date).<br />
<br />
Working form the inside out, the outfit consists of a linen, low necked smock...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2PPQjjwfL9xx5L7uWIkETXNUN9qgZQW4eq-tgyHALDA8gt_4DUpsnqqUFYyhWEAvOluSA143HwGx2uAHIvLWaDoFxsZ7FODcYnX97d0BbHT3W3kgZ0VF5_BWOtP_T63HXuz4bHtHdWoc/s1600/smock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2PPQjjwfL9xx5L7uWIkETXNUN9qgZQW4eq-tgyHALDA8gt_4DUpsnqqUFYyhWEAvOluSA143HwGx2uAHIvLWaDoFxsZ7FODcYnX97d0BbHT3W3kgZ0VF5_BWOtP_T63HXuz4bHtHdWoc/s320/smock.jpg" width="187" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">(Which is looking very wrinkly at the moment...)</span></div>
<br />
...over which are worn my new wool petticoat bodies.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuMEHw55R1Wqhm0OydGiOgtFm14RQerGG1GWuBRe3UMWL3_j_WVRcYuTCrvZSRXO21j2h-VFdXqkUtWrUNZ6E3dJsYgqzx4z6bLEKoDgVuQYIQ7FRwmqnBmMcIrZI488ZhTP70sfk0GZU/s1600/Petticoat+Bodies_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuMEHw55R1Wqhm0OydGiOgtFm14RQerGG1GWuBRe3UMWL3_j_WVRcYuTCrvZSRXO21j2h-VFdXqkUtWrUNZ6E3dJsYgqzx4z6bLEKoDgVuQYIQ7FRwmqnBmMcIrZI488ZhTP70sfk0GZU/s320/Petticoat+Bodies_01.jpg" width="187" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is followed by a small bum roll...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhGrkIB6jlcKxIiLJqBLFL5fZERgMoHxQmyq27tgXttharwB1ZsVIuyTOfoom4zS_9I6bqPCUV2OYg6-A72ajpR-Zz4-HFJM86dFghza7V5IsL4FhQaLFqTx_2gmYD7-lwyZUDz8704I/s1600/diary-k-70.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhGrkIB6jlcKxIiLJqBLFL5fZERgMoHxQmyq27tgXttharwB1ZsVIuyTOfoom4zS_9I6bqPCUV2OYg6-A72ajpR-Zz4-HFJM86dFghza7V5IsL4FhQaLFqTx_2gmYD7-lwyZUDz8704I/s320/diary-k-70.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
...and then a black linen petticoat. The petticoat is 180" around and cartridge pleated to a waistband, leaving the front section unpleated. The small, tightly packed pleats additional volume to the hips and the really nice curve when worn under the gown...which you can really see in the finished photos at the bottom of the post. However (as will all my petticoats) I intend to swap it out for a slightly narrower wool one later.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHFxJav_R7Wa2dxEr-XrAlHWjtiVIINRGLViwQVTTPjn0KE1BQ9X60v9gZRDCvQpYP8I4OiUDsUuC7NLz7wlbvPDq69qKK1JOlyebFhznIEJzRjWleXTJWxAJK8OLOXYODnmwyyblVcI/s1600/petticoat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHFxJav_R7Wa2dxEr-XrAlHWjtiVIINRGLViwQVTTPjn0KE1BQ9X60v9gZRDCvQpYP8I4OiUDsUuC7NLz7wlbvPDq69qKK1JOlyebFhznIEJzRjWleXTJWxAJK8OLOXYODnmwyyblVcI/s320/petticoat.jpg" width="181" /></a></div>
<br />
Then comes a pair of red wool half sleeves, lined in cream linen and bound with black wool tape.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXYwoEDFzUktyWB9a2F98jCHiNcr4IDZfZYBnh0PVEgUnhuLJARvPjVpvikcsfDLThMCWIgC6AN9u1_1KkA17bQWj01omvuEkJ1J9ubXxcZf9LLF4VsM3KUpRwddy7vq8wqUbtTPngKSk/s1600/redsleeves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXYwoEDFzUktyWB9a2F98jCHiNcr4IDZfZYBnh0PVEgUnhuLJARvPjVpvikcsfDLThMCWIgC6AN9u1_1KkA17bQWj01omvuEkJ1J9ubXxcZf9LLF4VsM3KUpRwddy7vq8wqUbtTPngKSk/s320/redsleeves.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTefXyAS3xaSd6ZHKhvmCMS9JDkVcRiAgFKmOfwE_G5Eu2Vw-u7Jt90_Yp9dfXKPaCJw7YnBHwnNRw4DRmmxRgFsnVZehrtNrNlvcbKJ1WHMFQUMFmqpHTzNI8SsBZnrwpzms7G95JmY/s1600/redsleeves2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTefXyAS3xaSd6ZHKhvmCMS9JDkVcRiAgFKmOfwE_G5Eu2Vw-u7Jt90_Yp9dfXKPaCJw7YnBHwnNRw4DRmmxRgFsnVZehrtNrNlvcbKJ1WHMFQUMFmqpHTzNI8SsBZnrwpzms7G95JmY/s320/redsleeves2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I'm also wearing my small 1.5" ruff which is pinned to a linen partlet (all of which are worn over the petticoat bodies).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9LJHULllmX-N8z8lg4BR3sFX4Sk7tuEgmDCfvz0BVToHEvXyIcTAjnw0Lf_96DLv0j93r9Su1CPt32ZAW0Qw0ghDP-z3fVnNUGoHw8rBuH2sgbBgLyrJolO8aXe-MgGVk4dgH4pMbzNs/s1600/Brown_74.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9LJHULllmX-N8z8lg4BR3sFX4Sk7tuEgmDCfvz0BVToHEvXyIcTAjnw0Lf_96DLv0j93r9Su1CPt32ZAW0Qw0ghDP-z3fVnNUGoHw8rBuH2sgbBgLyrJolO8aXe-MgGVk4dgH4pMbzNs/s320/Brown_74.jpg" width="252" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_HLi3v6M_whSzJxKYnKegTC7D_NwoAsa-itdBB-vunny0l9W8RxwvaeDXXMi4PAsq1Dt0KyFpvmDDlgtDjF8_UofoAIlsNQr4ihX9j3yALIUgKBp8GK4eTNZ3Ft34bQgxpMYIm5hfbV0/s1600/ruff_mo_37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_HLi3v6M_whSzJxKYnKegTC7D_NwoAsa-itdBB-vunny0l9W8RxwvaeDXXMi4PAsq1Dt0KyFpvmDDlgtDjF8_UofoAIlsNQr4ihX9j3yALIUgKBp8GK4eTNZ3Ft34bQgxpMYIm5hfbV0/s320/ruff_mo_37.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I also made a small pair of wrist ruffles, which I had intended to set into ruffs...but it just seemed like more trouble than it was worth for such small sets.<br />
(Read: I am lazy)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzqQp4oherOnPwyk6GlMhu_LBOFCIhb26VrgpZbpX2_KyTnIA3oWlkQZw3W_sJ0sgQRAHrPdDJ7IRSt8yb3oQCVU7zOD567WyaVzIP1zhdAp0VXE1z9SD6T-ca4tejwQ3X3YhC62XcwM/s1600/ruffles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzqQp4oherOnPwyk6GlMhu_LBOFCIhb26VrgpZbpX2_KyTnIA3oWlkQZw3W_sJ0sgQRAHrPdDJ7IRSt8yb3oQCVU7zOD567WyaVzIP1zhdAp0VXE1z9SD6T-ca4tejwQ3X3YhC62XcwM/s320/ruffles.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Finally, on goes the gown and a black wool partlet lined in black linen. <br />
This was made to replace my original wool partlet which met with a <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/04/mistakes-were-made.html">sad end</a> some time ago. Initially I had wanted to make the partlet out of velvet (as many would be), but thought it might look oddly high status given the fact that all the trim for the gown is wool tape. <br />
So instead I found a happy compromise with a beautiful wool cashmere, which looked very spiffy without being too fancy. This is actually placed on the gown first (I could never get it on over those sleeves otherwise), which is then slipped on and the partlet pinned at the front.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnhS3YklN4AgKT-CXZpKmD3gKh8hgoUW4G04TUH-gVhEWmzv__s_e1yg5FEik_2HbIEeHppgk72__YT35JLWuBIIJMF2xwztMtfpn-eonC2kU13tCULI5NLlIrkYWJEFCVI1LPTNZOkpc/s1600/partlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnhS3YklN4AgKT-CXZpKmD3gKh8hgoUW4G04TUH-gVhEWmzv__s_e1yg5FEik_2HbIEeHppgk72__YT35JLWuBIIJMF2xwztMtfpn-eonC2kU13tCULI5NLlIrkYWJEFCVI1LPTNZOkpc/s320/partlet.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The headwear (which doesn't quite match the portrait since it's missing those crazy, spiked barbels) consists of a simple coif, worn over ear irons and topped with a rectangular linen veil.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Y7HH2IbTv3PGfYKSd43_parXvsSrs5dyzy3YXB718YMcG4wwuIKNBnbfSthbZJ3vWoST_1qmOP98dhfKQ_1Fb6-DhUcs5Kh3Fx_c6FXhWlQQqREp3A1HvqKLH2MKB4G9CZqHeNM_hyI/s1600/coif.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Y7HH2IbTv3PGfYKSd43_parXvsSrs5dyzy3YXB718YMcG4wwuIKNBnbfSthbZJ3vWoST_1qmOP98dhfKQ_1Fb6-DhUcs5Kh3Fx_c6FXhWlQQqREp3A1HvqKLH2MKB4G9CZqHeNM_hyI/s320/coif.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-0vlktaDtDt4tzdtBW3NMZE9Juq3YMCrK7g0jfHwlt_okn0ncEzZknN9GDquniFAjJxC45kwpdwCfhxfnj93kMbn7BqusVYLqCQc76baJ-rXcPBA4yvRmwe7hQYbqN_vi43X7cTveIE/s1600/diary-k-69.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-0vlktaDtDt4tzdtBW3NMZE9Juq3YMCrK7g0jfHwlt_okn0ncEzZknN9GDquniFAjJxC45kwpdwCfhxfnj93kMbn7BqusVYLqCQc76baJ-rXcPBA4yvRmwe7hQYbqN_vi43X7cTveIE/s320/diary-k-69.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsyc_eZi-z_OEmrBICyoyXgTo9oQGxIWAQCFCLMtFDhGaXAZrTdGKmtSFV_i_IlOAkWmPT-tq2L4tBHDIeMZZX666kHD6BbsbFz7V85l70sEeAveFG_mWInOsyP5yCOJLCSzlLJ84q5yY/s1600/veil4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsyc_eZi-z_OEmrBICyoyXgTo9oQGxIWAQCFCLMtFDhGaXAZrTdGKmtSFV_i_IlOAkWmPT-tq2L4tBHDIeMZZX666kHD6BbsbFz7V85l70sEeAveFG_mWInOsyP5yCOJLCSzlLJ84q5yY/s320/veil4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The veil measures 20"x28" of which the first six inches or so are starched, folded to create the desired shape and pinned into place.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgatcrVj168c8nPXsNt12LcN9tFDETJdCx3h-PLXm6a1ZwVbpQZsjf3ToigTxaNykfu_xM32N1Nh4BUQQhYsK8JdQ3Fytcal2OagfPMjLea9JPsbKijg_0j-BC_6RSgx8YpIPhRt_5nTuA/s1600/veil1+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgatcrVj168c8nPXsNt12LcN9tFDETJdCx3h-PLXm6a1ZwVbpQZsjf3ToigTxaNykfu_xM32N1Nh4BUQQhYsK8JdQ3Fytcal2OagfPMjLea9JPsbKijg_0j-BC_6RSgx8YpIPhRt_5nTuA/s640/veil1+copy.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And then the only thing left to do is to add some jewelry! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As in the portrait I opt for a gold chain girdle (with gold filigree pendent) and a pair of rings. Mine are set with red stones to match the sleeves. They aren't prefect period analogs, but they'll work in a pinch.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVxkAC42rSBy3vTEKlt-IsZf22liPu2B4_Y0nsg1cpWFc9EnedEfX8oljl4BkVv_vQHAuX9LQ1JXOsMJvyhfLjaviz-SpboUVlP-mlLbTMwi_KEInhGmDMhRoGP-fdqu60VEQM9V5xvg/s1600/ring1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVxkAC42rSBy3vTEKlt-IsZf22liPu2B4_Y0nsg1cpWFc9EnedEfX8oljl4BkVv_vQHAuX9LQ1JXOsMJvyhfLjaviz-SpboUVlP-mlLbTMwi_KEInhGmDMhRoGP-fdqu60VEQM9V5xvg/s320/ring1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIRDHS0R3kJFpTGzsI1JIAcsDmJ7hxBtMd9khMgKzXv_nck6qvie1yG8KzdgcJb4ZXMd2k2A990njIf7CQGfkJCGUZn5fPWvFWkqH1Q1KEM62rFFN-c2ZrK4FFlSwMDR4TO-qGTaYcD8c/s1600/ring2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIRDHS0R3kJFpTGzsI1JIAcsDmJ7hxBtMd9khMgKzXv_nck6qvie1yG8KzdgcJb4ZXMd2k2A990njIf7CQGfkJCGUZn5fPWvFWkqH1Q1KEM62rFFN-c2ZrK4FFlSwMDR4TO-qGTaYcD8c/s320/ring2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA10ytEYpGH1J0rwnuQTogdFK-e8h9UHtN5y8H_8I_tKY6g2BT7O0tjN-z3tz01t_ASdXY32EWSQqc5zMhTnrnEQiuDFyRIlyYjY44ZfLEUwvgKpZnwwR93Zg6kqRuMuuZPrPX0vyx6H8/s1600/chain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA10ytEYpGH1J0rwnuQTogdFK-e8h9UHtN5y8H_8I_tKY6g2BT7O0tjN-z3tz01t_ASdXY32EWSQqc5zMhTnrnEQiuDFyRIlyYjY44ZfLEUwvgKpZnwwR93Zg6kqRuMuuZPrPX0vyx6H8/s320/chain.jpg" width="226" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Finally, a linen cutwork handkerchief edged in lace. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This doesn't appear in the Doesburch portrait, but it often features in images of similar gowns from the period and it was too pretty not to add!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Mine is a 19th century piece to which I've added reproduction 16th century lace from The Tudor Tailor.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT7Y2qUgNLTZi-BZ3hZ4CVXET4ZtOUBkOoqP2JU6xQtf69MNddqVL0cgCVOs-s6hOmHedLdKP0JOmNbnfR1oxVTKoe574AlMminliJoSXto0QjIil92t9KhWhkVsmKjQz7w_eWIqSGChw/s1600/lace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT7Y2qUgNLTZi-BZ3hZ4CVXET4ZtOUBkOoqP2JU6xQtf69MNddqVL0cgCVOs-s6hOmHedLdKP0JOmNbnfR1oxVTKoe574AlMminliJoSXto0QjIil92t9KhWhkVsmKjQz7w_eWIqSGChw/s320/lace.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Hopefully I'll be able to get some more pictures soon...but for now I'm dead chuffed with the final look!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTTrKpbqlT7vS3brSyfakuWhAycRS5uhbkKTwCnaRuZmoAhbh7VW7l8M_-ldb7_MaIWimM9H6Wdu22p-A-2pJQpAoSP06RWeQ38ZCU90Z9BVIphH7ULDSflcEpsolr_zye4BYwrw1fwxg/s1600/MixNMatch_01B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTTrKpbqlT7vS3brSyfakuWhAycRS5uhbkKTwCnaRuZmoAhbh7VW7l8M_-ldb7_MaIWimM9H6Wdu22p-A-2pJQpAoSP06RWeQ38ZCU90Z9BVIphH7ULDSflcEpsolr_zye4BYwrw1fwxg/s400/MixNMatch_01B.jpg" width="225" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGa_qN9BNU4OhjeRmRJnq9JE8gzL3WD5YAbv-SCuMPHUVOsVeBGObxgLiXX_XdrkdAfP88a-4S5NfBWc1pmNlrjYoIcsf3qgFO-ylPPrQYI81IRXaz8XjAximUYMDBwVio91yI1_w7rrU/s1600/MixNMatch_03F+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGa_qN9BNU4OhjeRmRJnq9JE8gzL3WD5YAbv-SCuMPHUVOsVeBGObxgLiXX_XdrkdAfP88a-4S5NfBWc1pmNlrjYoIcsf3qgFO-ylPPrQYI81IRXaz8XjAximUYMDBwVio91yI1_w7rrU/s400/MixNMatch_03F+copy.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
***</div>
Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-54252958117104258102017-04-21T20:04:00.000-07:002017-04-27T21:43:04.051-07:00Brown Fitted Gown: Mix 'n Match<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
It's been a bit of a quiet year on the blog.<br />
But I promise more has been going on behind the scenes.<br />
(Well, slightly more...)<br />
<br />
Since finishing the <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/07/brown-fitted-gown.html">brown fitted gown</a> last summer I've been assembling various accessories (sleeves, petticoats, jewelry etc) in the hopes of eventually doing an <i>epic</i> 16th century "Mix 'n Match" photoshoot!<br />
After all, I'd been planning on making a fitted gown for so many years...and now that I finally had one I wanted to show how functional and versatile it could be as a piece of clothing, and how many different looks could be achieved by just swapping out a few key accessories.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia9dKkHU5yDfQKA8TO65246gJ1x4ZiYgRK6wcV778d016xZFnkt6pyY-ef_eyAPPgl0pb0TqHYnGkCrj1H7oCUYSp-9N6S2w9tEJzBHEoIdKKAkuiyT0f_8ERmXlbu0rs0OTVGfmfyPwA/s1600/variations.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="385" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia9dKkHU5yDfQKA8TO65246gJ1x4ZiYgRK6wcV778d016xZFnkt6pyY-ef_eyAPPgl0pb0TqHYnGkCrj1H7oCUYSp-9N6S2w9tEJzBHEoIdKKAkuiyT0f_8ERmXlbu0rs0OTVGfmfyPwA/s640/variations.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
However, like all things (when it comes to me and sewing) it hasn't quite gone according to plan...<br />
<br />
It's taken longer than I'd anticipated to put everything together. And even though I've had quite a lot of the accessories finished for a while now (5 pairs of sleeves and counting!) there always seems to be something missing to complete the look.<br />
Add to that the fact that getting dressed in just <i>one</i> outfit can take up the better part of an afternoon and the prospect of photographing everything in a single day quickly becomes impractical.<br />
So instead of doing one grand post I think I'll have to roll out the different looks as opportunities present themselves.<br />
<br />
And there's already been an unofficial kickoff of sorts to the Mix 'n Match series: the <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/12/brown-fitted-gown-v20-now-with-huik.html">Lucas de Heere outfit</a> I wore for last year's Nottingham Faire!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjol0xemBNR9G1D8ygvgh706Y0Joq-HNwh9Pu9pDSi8mByNPt_2klnoOGlMMC9mP1mTCmk2pcoZiuIMcbAtmsDm9VAdFosbycfEjAXGvH37GZsoaA94SQrG2Vpz-ckjQfc5f3a6xEqhzW8/s1600/huik-compare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjol0xemBNR9G1D8ygvgh706Y0Joq-HNwh9Pu9pDSi8mByNPt_2klnoOGlMMC9mP1mTCmk2pcoZiuIMcbAtmsDm9VAdFosbycfEjAXGvH37GZsoaA94SQrG2Vpz-ckjQfc5f3a6xEqhzW8/s320/huik-compare.jpg" width="309" /></a><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
Granted, it wasn't 100% finished at the time...which is why the <i>official</i> kickoff is happening right now with the updated and complete version!</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu3AeVZkQQIALi_Na0S7ZpixlxTOo2nERZGOvoDfcisZANmdjg88vm-NcbVnSbmY8LcsJE5QYwkkfViw_HGtXOQjO47iq-GxdPDwnUggAt8wU0sRfdqJ7LdtNJIeV9yeuFrx3wL9Z9b00/s1600/MixNMatch_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu3AeVZkQQIALi_Na0S7ZpixlxTOo2nERZGOvoDfcisZANmdjg88vm-NcbVnSbmY8LcsJE5QYwkkfViw_HGtXOQjO47iq-GxdPDwnUggAt8wU0sRfdqJ7LdtNJIeV9yeuFrx3wL9Z9b00/s400/MixNMatch_08.jpg" width="230" /></a></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I know, it's pretty similar and therefore perhaps a bit of an anticlimax...but there are some notable differences. <br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
While the huik and apron are the same, the linen petticoat has been swapped out for my new <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2017/01/petticoat-bodies.html">wool petticoat bodies</a> (which have the same black trim pattern at the hem as the orignial de Heere image).</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
This has the added benefit of supporting the bust and smoothing out the bodice, as well as improving the overall silhouette.<br />
I've also made a new pair of half sleeves that are a little closer to the inspiration image.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgagHpr9M7nV9eW0cx6IIWL92mitIPtpXZAPBZZ3rcOkvLuQGPlf029b21YC8WNKoBQstBzT0fuQBCya76r0kAXmuDtMoQRtsBmdVimfoSFBV5R4h9YozWz6hPVTpKWwTXZTsiumAMv3qA/s1600/sleeves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgagHpr9M7nV9eW0cx6IIWL92mitIPtpXZAPBZZ3rcOkvLuQGPlf029b21YC8WNKoBQstBzT0fuQBCya76r0kAXmuDtMoQRtsBmdVimfoSFBV5R4h9YozWz6hPVTpKWwTXZTsiumAMv3qA/s320/sleeves.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I tried to mimic the horizontal pattern in the original with narrow rows of slashing. The wool/cotton sateen is also more in keeping with the de Heere pallet, being closer to cream than white. I'm pretty happy with how they turned out! I will definitely be playing with more slashing techniques in the future...<br />
<br />
So now this look is now officially done!<br />
(or at least until I decide to tackle a more period correct construction method for the huik)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib1Pija_Kb5icNB9Vm1oSCHbG9jgpROXrQb98DIOyyzmtXtrwtecC4DzXKX6OlnUEZQeiSw2gVOz8v5UWrn9Y5Vxzr2IPjZ0l6U1RTTGKKH0HILfimYijCRYfKstEf1uEdFQQZ_lc7K9g/s1600/MixNMatch_06+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib1Pija_Kb5icNB9Vm1oSCHbG9jgpROXrQb98DIOyyzmtXtrwtecC4DzXKX6OlnUEZQeiSw2gVOz8v5UWrn9Y5Vxzr2IPjZ0l6U1RTTGKKH0HILfimYijCRYfKstEf1uEdFQQZ_lc7K9g/s320/MixNMatch_06+copy.jpg" width="173" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9yvxD-vn4WFOHGFoKewAHa_wVO5Gtqj4PqTf25W_b9R7-nTHtndPbfhFT5w9g6ROff-od7HXLml1lMb12O-D01Ft32FOuVS8Y_qGRdmfIy_SggGaqcAhM4Alz7j3vTE8CmwFg52aUfsA/s1600/MixNMatch_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9yvxD-vn4WFOHGFoKewAHa_wVO5Gtqj4PqTf25W_b9R7-nTHtndPbfhFT5w9g6ROff-od7HXLml1lMb12O-D01Ft32FOuVS8Y_qGRdmfIy_SggGaqcAhM4Alz7j3vTE8CmwFg52aUfsA/s320/MixNMatch_07.jpg" width="176" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2EZcU-DZ6uwTf4cifOC7G2igor66pH-1klNv4UJhna7WttZ3TCsDyxwfJDlzzvBWrSuthPdq-dAFWzLpgDezdcdcl9MS3FCdr7xhaNfAN0pdQu2zgrN5LcRLjiI2cm1ASO4KCUwlJF4/s1600/MixNMatch_09A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2EZcU-DZ6uwTf4cifOC7G2igor66pH-1klNv4UJhna7WttZ3TCsDyxwfJDlzzvBWrSuthPdq-dAFWzLpgDezdcdcl9MS3FCdr7xhaNfAN0pdQu2zgrN5LcRLjiI2cm1ASO4KCUwlJF4/s320/MixNMatch_09A.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6AApZhULg7KidG903thTu7p6bueZwdLoCtzKvV_9VYvCQgIYNoCHlHzoL20hHJ2A0PWEhj0iKHvtjcU_eeN7xvIBSlVwm1wVyl-Dt44VcovBUUPUvWU8HL1qW-SG5CvWmYX5qTxwNz2k/s1600/MixNMatch_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6AApZhULg7KidG903thTu7p6bueZwdLoCtzKvV_9VYvCQgIYNoCHlHzoL20hHJ2A0PWEhj0iKHvtjcU_eeN7xvIBSlVwm1wVyl-Dt44VcovBUUPUvWU8HL1qW-SG5CvWmYX5qTxwNz2k/s320/MixNMatch_10.jpg" width="173" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8NYWbe4S_sCEys60I71d2vjyhXulGDn6jnZXc-g6wHEXTnrOry4aGTRHuzxff_sa6FMn1dy_Tr_60onJsl5ZvXEgIYNN6hmrfrJaA31cHQtGY4hS90pM1RMy9xVlK6b9TuY90d7KfEp4/s1600/MixNMatch_11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8NYWbe4S_sCEys60I71d2vjyhXulGDn6jnZXc-g6wHEXTnrOry4aGTRHuzxff_sa6FMn1dy_Tr_60onJsl5ZvXEgIYNN6hmrfrJaA31cHQtGY4hS90pM1RMy9xVlK6b9TuY90d7KfEp4/s320/MixNMatch_11.jpg" width="187" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRCVLEqTuDmiKEqKgVAz-0mB1xud0fNe4EElDCBZi5gen38-5nWCM5qK1qZYp1VM1suUdNx3jwmpdQGl0VYivR1YQZb9R41JNj5qv-1j9Frc5Cox_sa2XAFWXslwW4xrnIMe9rU-4Slsc/s1600/MixNMatch_12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRCVLEqTuDmiKEqKgVAz-0mB1xud0fNe4EElDCBZi5gen38-5nWCM5qK1qZYp1VM1suUdNx3jwmpdQGl0VYivR1YQZb9R41JNj5qv-1j9Frc5Cox_sa2XAFWXslwW4xrnIMe9rU-4Slsc/s320/MixNMatch_12.jpg" width="177" /></a></div>
<br />
And that's it!<br />
Hopefully I'll have more looks to show in the near future. <br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
</div>
</div>
Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-69489375651742812612017-02-19T20:46:00.000-08:002017-03-13T20:08:23.804-07:001590s Gown, Resurrected...<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
So after a 2 year hiatus I'm returning to my 1590s gown, and if you've read the early posts it should come as no surprise that I've <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2015/06/more-indecision-battle-of-mockups.html">waffled again</a> and resurrected my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2014/07/1590s-loose-gown-inspiration-research.html">original plan</a> for a loose gown.<br />
<br />
However, this time I've decided to (temporarily) put the Esther Inglis gown to one side and focus on the similarly styled Elizabeth Field instead.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNCUeWEEL9rH-48FVU_283udaC9hk_cMa1wLj0O6v1EUltnfsg5DQzcypySOXJHonVSacDjglq3o1LPuMyYz43TesFsijgupwGgkSRskCMJK7FIYAJQwKS8UuUXDDFasDV6F2duFG6WIk/s1600/3b8c5987e43c79a4e168b139ddf9c235.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNCUeWEEL9rH-48FVU_283udaC9hk_cMa1wLj0O6v1EUltnfsg5DQzcypySOXJHonVSacDjglq3o1LPuMyYz43TesFsijgupwGgkSRskCMJK7FIYAJQwKS8UuUXDDFasDV6F2duFG6WIk/s320/3b8c5987e43c79a4e168b139ddf9c235.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Esther Inglis, 1595</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlnYxOmnBwTgPPN9wPH-b0YHc4gYpxWuprrnUsPh-Wh-Unn4IERJ9BaG-wtJS4FY4IBPfZRWkUpa6qwUxG9zfi0lcG9K87mSqGLSJd7fGZtE7x1r4ta4aF3rJBXIpRu3bJqiSeRspNIGQ/s1600/32e94d1c7ece933c3b76872535156b25.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlnYxOmnBwTgPPN9wPH-b0YHc4gYpxWuprrnUsPh-Wh-Unn4IERJ9BaG-wtJS4FY4IBPfZRWkUpa6qwUxG9zfi0lcG9K87mSqGLSJd7fGZtE7x1r4ta4aF3rJBXIpRu3bJqiSeRspNIGQ/s320/32e94d1c7ece933c3b76872535156b25.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">John Dunch and his nurse, Elizabeth Field, 1588-89</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
However, this also means I'm finally going to have to figure out what is going on with that white pleated front piece...<br />
Is it some sort of stomacher? Is it attached at the neck like a partlet? Or is it just the smock?<br />
<br />
Some have suggested that based on the size of the ruff the Elizabeth Field/John Dunch portait may be slightly later in date, which would be in keeping with many images I've found of a similar short-lived style which was popular in the mid 1590s through the very early 1600s (especially on tomb brasses).<br />
<br />
The most similar image I've been able to find is this 1590s miniature by Issac Olivier. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSTW21BAE-eU_BVjtk9HMfRV7Adl7ZSJr4xfODmxScAHnlgsIWxi6DM2ktp2_WjmgUt3Y0AEi4brtBWk3ylxPuQc8-5_W2qxZ0DR5YPslnSa-ncNIuaTgHtA79benN53v40lEbM4FjP2A/s1600/68f8a8e7caafab01140cb58e8442d01f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSTW21BAE-eU_BVjtk9HMfRV7Adl7ZSJr4xfODmxScAHnlgsIWxi6DM2ktp2_WjmgUt3Y0AEi4brtBWk3ylxPuQc8-5_W2qxZ0DR5YPslnSa-ncNIuaTgHtA79benN53v40lEbM4FjP2A/s320/68f8a8e7caafab01140cb58e8442d01f.jpg" width="232" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Unknown Lady, 1590s</span></div>
<br />
Unfortunately both the neckline and waist are obscured so this doesn't tell us much...apart from the fact that the opening is fairly wide and the fabric seems very full (which is why I've taken to calling this the "Pigeon Breast" style).<br />
<br />
This leads me to suspect that this is not simply an exposed smock. Another image (also by Oliver) seems to confirm this, since in shows two ladies in similar gowns with pleated white fronts which extend well past the waistline. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4mBRKDAEPKISrKKuCWrLuNoRd3qO8gzcO5JODdWW6VuGIFy30JrfYpPrYKvLDhquF2Ot4GYXYChP-wn_u0QBBeGw7eFHB7eF4a9oKTKKW8sFn5sK5PbOa8p0vfJnqHm7e0fTZYXGOSPY/s1600/a8a1400d2bdefa29aa696759bf554fc5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4mBRKDAEPKISrKKuCWrLuNoRd3qO8gzcO5JODdWW6VuGIFy30JrfYpPrYKvLDhquF2Ot4GYXYChP-wn_u0QBBeGw7eFHB7eF4a9oKTKKW8sFn5sK5PbOa8p0vfJnqHm7e0fTZYXGOSPY/s320/a8a1400d2bdefa29aa696759bf554fc5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Detail: A Party in the Open Air (Allegory on Conjugal Love) 1590-95</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWQEAgIuAffF32-4s7bi7xzEFKj92HWNk_Up5XZWr5DaRczpRcK_ADU_wmFXh5BHeGd7-Us8wgGRGIQrLjI0hu72QqAEdYtnGUBXAMUH3Xk6zaClw0i7XudAJqKOncYUhb5qu0kcwFpoU/s1600/2bb0ceac02ef3c6e5ebf38c5ee65da61.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWQEAgIuAffF32-4s7bi7xzEFKj92HWNk_Up5XZWr5DaRczpRcK_ADU_wmFXh5BHeGd7-Us8wgGRGIQrLjI0hu72QqAEdYtnGUBXAMUH3Xk6zaClw0i7XudAJqKOncYUhb5qu0kcwFpoU/s320/2bb0ceac02ef3c6e5ebf38c5ee65da61.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
To me the structured silhouette of these gowns suggests some sort of front piece worn over a foundation garment.<br />
But is it just a stomacher or is it attached to a collar?<br />
This is a difficult question to answer since necklines are often hidden by ruffs, though there are some images which suggest a separate stomacher.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFflDV2qIcCX27wuA8lJcNAS-T7XI1aTgFms33A_XK4aTlyoNkFIS7j6J5FOwi90rldQAlQO3DxDuRPMW6OrFaG7-0_u-ur4v6FqXh3fJEaOMN39FAFt2z9mCgnfB-P2eRZ5MaN5MmaaU/s1600/b3442db8b2632ce9787dc8dcce9d80cc.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFflDV2qIcCX27wuA8lJcNAS-T7XI1aTgFms33A_XK4aTlyoNkFIS7j6J5FOwi90rldQAlQO3DxDuRPMW6OrFaG7-0_u-ur4v6FqXh3fJEaOMN39FAFt2z9mCgnfB-P2eRZ5MaN5MmaaU/s320/b3442db8b2632ce9787dc8dcce9d80cc.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Print from "Royal, millinery and court costumes during the reign of James I, 1603-1625"</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
However, many tomb brasses show the pleating continuing at least as high as the collar.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV75ah4-vGSSMWkT7pTvz49S38Te9TKtm9oK_-kF54tB9DSZfEh2fPuBK8BGYs_XAFbatGlwP71p_AR2_jizPOkflw_gaKDVZxsyHcehkBuAzIFWsFsr4AltOjYFROZ9yGKfzD22Y-Cjc/s1600/brass2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV75ah4-vGSSMWkT7pTvz49S38Te9TKtm9oK_-kF54tB9DSZfEh2fPuBK8BGYs_XAFbatGlwP71p_AR2_jizPOkflw_gaKDVZxsyHcehkBuAzIFWsFsr4AltOjYFROZ9yGKfzD22Y-Cjc/s320/brass2.jpg" width="151" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_Yrx7RC45MfIUuWmwstZgcyeLbomuaZqmi_j_JuGwRVZdbM9caDtmSElp8NPscRy_cON_RdYoBtlgh4JP42m1Ou60JK64tp4ZjYxP2JqBbMgLMUxfmqqPkzoYZY2Z_frjEwBpy3isyk/s1600/brass6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_Yrx7RC45MfIUuWmwstZgcyeLbomuaZqmi_j_JuGwRVZdbM9caDtmSElp8NPscRy_cON_RdYoBtlgh4JP42m1Ou60JK64tp4ZjYxP2JqBbMgLMUxfmqqPkzoYZY2Z_frjEwBpy3isyk/s320/brass6.jpg" width="202" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Wife of Arthur Pennyng, 1593</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2qMkU0HzOCesAx5HlQ3cvG0CyFSey_8b4T42Mo-H6QwkJdjzSv5hyphenhyphenxKTnSxaLxChN8GuXgZDW1RXYy6_CPoRsZ_WDlcGXymWFyKh0QOhoVUAktJTor_3kORL0gg3eKft4sxkC75oYpk/s1600/351f1cb6b8019d7a2778a4f8c60bd4f2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2qMkU0HzOCesAx5HlQ3cvG0CyFSey_8b4T42Mo-H6QwkJdjzSv5hyphenhyphenxKTnSxaLxChN8GuXgZDW1RXYy6_CPoRsZ_WDlcGXymWFyKh0QOhoVUAktJTor_3kORL0gg3eKft4sxkC75oYpk/s320/351f1cb6b8019d7a2778a4f8c60bd4f2.jpg" width="161" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNa7nL9OnkrT7rLBA2k234NFpYkL076i_iqsb9l9_lbmnsbKsVaNd1bV9qoH0veSLTlp46nvClix9EcPUtK19fk_-b3P98Y-2V3jzl4tnhHFde4GPgpXBLwzYOMvtoMWvfXqFVMLAHAtk/s1600/0ee8b96d5f876930b31c93aec393a740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNa7nL9OnkrT7rLBA2k234NFpYkL076i_iqsb9l9_lbmnsbKsVaNd1bV9qoH0veSLTlp46nvClix9EcPUtK19fk_-b3P98Y-2V3jzl4tnhHFde4GPgpXBLwzYOMvtoMWvfXqFVMLAHAtk/s320/0ee8b96d5f876930b31c93aec393a740.jpg" width="230" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Unknown Lady, 1590</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuOJWGPCdjujgPCBQHKDuCiVanBwC8JBTDgt-w4tmaaI7Ni7RI-x46aXtXn8ek7YKLqqdH52ivTAmhliUIFcPMtBuy-NjNbmPUimZDuZoYhOnRHmn0MAM1zMK17srJB5u26t2gebh4tSQ/s1600/7687b733c83a102550ce371e2d305125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuOJWGPCdjujgPCBQHKDuCiVanBwC8JBTDgt-w4tmaaI7Ni7RI-x46aXtXn8ek7YKLqqdH52ivTAmhliUIFcPMtBuy-NjNbmPUimZDuZoYhOnRHmn0MAM1zMK17srJB5u26t2gebh4tSQ/s320/7687b733c83a102550ce371e2d305125.jpg" width="164" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqzxdE44jjcFzwronB2Ycp1JV5AUUD4p3-aB3A2UO1jog8kziFyfNfQtD81Xjne-7fJN4dwnuKPsXAJ-hrg-4vUc1Kpqyom3obSG1ZSbex1U0UykSV5ngP5xoX1-llP-MxBZ4XREGa_0/s1600/0391f2d2b68dc1e5135608c65fd5969b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqzxdE44jjcFzwronB2Ycp1JV5AUUD4p3-aB3A2UO1jog8kziFyfNfQtD81Xjne-7fJN4dwnuKPsXAJ-hrg-4vUc1Kpqyom3obSG1ZSbex1U0UykSV5ngP5xoX1-llP-MxBZ4XREGa_0/s320/0391f2d2b68dc1e5135608c65fd5969b.jpg" width="202" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Margeri Browne, 1594</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK2YVeLZ9DKBj99JrJ5vkjzYLO5uz2O015_ij0EOo7MsST01C5NsfmCvH3oFOLG8HejfjnELJG0eSD2CL9qLN0sKtVHQkvpuy5h_Is13vdMngqt4ACNtKzDctv51QzSOf5i0rOTvAS_UU/s1600/ff91d2ed8442be133ab785cd18011933.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK2YVeLZ9DKBj99JrJ5vkjzYLO5uz2O015_ij0EOo7MsST01C5NsfmCvH3oFOLG8HejfjnELJG0eSD2CL9qLN0sKtVHQkvpuy5h_Is13vdMngqt4ACNtKzDctv51QzSOf5i0rOTvAS_UU/s320/ff91d2ed8442be133ab785cd18011933.jpg" width="192" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijgF0SsgKiRVj52xZTz_AMKdxZwZIHt8XvZqZwb0XMAulaEXYZlkVAhLYduK5QMU9NTFd5DI48L2uH8Vu648_HQC7yKlflUpg4vPmWqMYV1riGLaY-3mdlXAJwz0tJQtbTKYNk4r6pQLs/s1600/91105a3a96a95368ae1a655dd6e5dc8a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijgF0SsgKiRVj52xZTz_AMKdxZwZIHt8XvZqZwb0XMAulaEXYZlkVAhLYduK5QMU9NTFd5DI48L2uH8Vu648_HQC7yKlflUpg4vPmWqMYV1riGLaY-3mdlXAJwz0tJQtbTKYNk4r6pQLs/s320/91105a3a96a95368ae1a655dd6e5dc8a.jpg" width="140" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">John Brudenell and wife Elizabeth, 1606 & an Unknown Lady, 1590s</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCkJJKvxGxECh4pSV4z9OgcU5DXUwrFWUyAEr-VmmJU7lmojQINauuYUZAFC323hZ_PPOKloE-5K7_n6J5-XDHUqNeyFdBQyeh9Q1kajArNCgpiQ6UQA_q2wT6o9NjaPOPcK_pfCNoJc/s1600/f3a3470f6b92ad2688c429118fc8ef9f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRCkJJKvxGxECh4pSV4z9OgcU5DXUwrFWUyAEr-VmmJU7lmojQINauuYUZAFC323hZ_PPOKloE-5K7_n6J5-XDHUqNeyFdBQyeh9Q1kajArNCgpiQ6UQA_q2wT6o9NjaPOPcK_pfCNoJc/s320/f3a3470f6b92ad2688c429118fc8ef9f.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Thomas Gage and wife Elizabeth, 1595 </span> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMTUBHtNH_XRESGgxZMpVbnAKPB4KrAE1wbcN5LZpqBklT_l-MuVGa4uegPwS1gQwGLLttNPS_5RNYkbmNh0Nhcov-ZTbxyPhnx4atCUk4V_wRQlwbb661yGH7AKhS1ceVKdCaPRhCjvw/s1600/8a1d5b925f2fb0e76f4b850decf04ff4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMTUBHtNH_XRESGgxZMpVbnAKPB4KrAE1wbcN5LZpqBklT_l-MuVGa4uegPwS1gQwGLLttNPS_5RNYkbmNh0Nhcov-ZTbxyPhnx4atCUk4V_wRQlwbb661yGH7AKhS1ceVKdCaPRhCjvw/s320/8a1d5b925f2fb0e76f4b850decf04ff4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">John Gage and his wives (Elizabeth & Margaret), 1595</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgubdtyyquc-UwfRJdlUSaVqzPD5wur-M0OvkCbp4GbQ_4u2Ta2WaYNLjfu1rnRG0rrPkfAq1lOB6JIxlWjO9XL0E5Vb4GKgRxnkuU41RDtFT1MUI0p4SsXc6qs0cBMu3z-mf63l58_hyo/s1600/49b7bc63e5de720aca3c12dc9246ae79.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgubdtyyquc-UwfRJdlUSaVqzPD5wur-M0OvkCbp4GbQ_4u2Ta2WaYNLjfu1rnRG0rrPkfAq1lOB6JIxlWjO9XL0E5Vb4GKgRxnkuU41RDtFT1MUI0p4SsXc6qs0cBMu3z-mf63l58_hyo/s320/49b7bc63e5de720aca3c12dc9246ae79.jpg" width="203" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Sylvester Browne, 1593</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Is the front piece integral to the collar or separate? And if it is attached, is the collar also pleated? It's difficult to tell with brasses...in some images the collar also looks pleated, but that could just be the effects of cross hatching.<br />
<br />
Then there is the portrait and subsequent tomb monument of Elizabeth Cooke, Lady Russel (died<br />
1609).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2YRRpHL989AQPuv4WfnLkQH6P9eroqyCcOLaUxlp8bZNC3Ip9OwFVYgGd9b2rbGRCdF49W7UeSZaUZmsBoUx93dSJZ9TtgE7O-qhL8v3a7uaar9Q3XOYIrC_9sGrkDcHFHhmzRi6__4/s1600/17c7e42077b3d3918bca3f319dce7771.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2YRRpHL989AQPuv4WfnLkQH6P9eroqyCcOLaUxlp8bZNC3Ip9OwFVYgGd9b2rbGRCdF49W7UeSZaUZmsBoUx93dSJZ9TtgE7O-qhL8v3a7uaar9Q3XOYIrC_9sGrkDcHFHhmzRi6__4/s320/17c7e42077b3d3918bca3f319dce7771.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTx-8EB3CwguhIjnwV7Mu0paipOW5cFrIevFOJvCWGZNW_D1PJXEyAoO_fo0omrw_LW06gtvKNRchMPAT7oF-AIfy2o_bhsP-1obd7Yu244PQkqSfL4KI_WfC4DorxT9u_Zr4ZKjW4Mi8/s1600/lady_hoby.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTx-8EB3CwguhIjnwV7Mu0paipOW5cFrIevFOJvCWGZNW_D1PJXEyAoO_fo0omrw_LW06gtvKNRchMPAT7oF-AIfy2o_bhsP-1obd7Yu244PQkqSfL4KI_WfC4DorxT9u_Zr4ZKjW4Mi8/s320/lady_hoby.jpg" width="268" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKRv_LcpzUSvW9QdZ_e6P4PfagGtzqRc_C5LCT5Mu2wm-3B88cC4DImYoNe2UipQhaPZFQF4WEWMET4C2yG9Mct-ls3jPWBhFzJHlU6OUjjIkIfsRNYqLEfj76cgNbYLeuTwmxlsNw7Q/s1600/375617ec761564e77cb087490e71e043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKRv_LcpzUSvW9QdZ_e6P4PfagGtzqRc_C5LCT5Mu2wm-3B88cC4DImYoNe2UipQhaPZFQF4WEWMET4C2yG9Mct-ls3jPWBhFzJHlU6OUjjIkIfsRNYqLEfj76cgNbYLeuTwmxlsNw7Q/s320/375617ec761564e77cb087490e71e043.jpg" width="208" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I'm not sure when the original painting dates to, but as she's wearing widow's white we can assume it's after the death of Lord Russel in 1584 (though the styling probably pushes it at least into the 1590s).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
While the details in the portrait are a bit harder to make out, the effigy is interesting in that it clearly shows a pleated front with some sort of structural elements (based on the detailing around the bodice point) and a front detail which continues past a pleated collar...suggesting the two might be a single garment.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This image got be thinking about about White Mourning in general and Barbes in particular, and whether this may be an evolution of the white chin veil (barbe literally translates to "beard").</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB57YNfoBsJCmSgpsE0Ep7R1YUQOyiurgNewlczhuL9SKxP8vzrKpUFKfMtiR7YdnbsanIPi-XEzHuk7gddeokquT4Hc-5Q7iH8ey3af1FTAyxoZHthVMwWUUouCLkXXCmS2geetr9dgc/s1600/95cd16dbf2b4d7ee9ea768997c7e8110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB57YNfoBsJCmSgpsE0Ep7R1YUQOyiurgNewlczhuL9SKxP8vzrKpUFKfMtiR7YdnbsanIPi-XEzHuk7gddeokquT4Hc-5Q7iH8ey3af1FTAyxoZHthVMwWUUouCLkXXCmS2geetr9dgc/s320/95cd16dbf2b4d7ee9ea768997c7e8110.jpg" width="207" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Margaret of Austria, 1520s</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivzAbC966zF9p4v7-ACgi_XsXSU9dT1m-p-4OQtDfVF4VqsMNIpmXNfxq1m3oJUVdwtcRF5260PMce96otNmqXrzM_oDIbB-4_UjtSEuwmAPOcAD1qig6sHslaXUGDs5HMvDS49ZFqr8Q/s1600/8ddf82f8ccb55ff5ca8dac52df2ddbf4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivzAbC966zF9p4v7-ACgi_XsXSU9dT1m-p-4OQtDfVF4VqsMNIpmXNfxq1m3oJUVdwtcRF5260PMce96otNmqXrzM_oDIbB-4_UjtSEuwmAPOcAD1qig6sHslaXUGDs5HMvDS49ZFqr8Q/s320/8ddf82f8ccb55ff5ca8dac52df2ddbf4.jpg" width="244" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Eleanor of Austria, 1550s</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6CmysGcTx1TChX6ZdjCtlrONV6L898lCtwTlYa2aDmB-9giqlkUktb_MZ3sbD-AGtRbq48G3hrwgLXjc5AN_uqLi3YkIeQqAHXVchYglpSvMnMnr2GFPatejEwE9evan0PQBBxzIPS9Y/s1600/63941767ebc21c53cdc74b49f8188249.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6CmysGcTx1TChX6ZdjCtlrONV6L898lCtwTlYa2aDmB-9giqlkUktb_MZ3sbD-AGtRbq48G3hrwgLXjc5AN_uqLi3YkIeQqAHXVchYglpSvMnMnr2GFPatejEwE9evan0PQBBxzIPS9Y/s320/63941767ebc21c53cdc74b49f8188249.jpg" width="232" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mary Queen of Scots by François Clouet (1559-1560)</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi22pTODKOBXTK4ZzukFYCJcKAFx986WdZcb3dzy-JIO_AQylpU0ntpzQLPriI8GxqHEUUuMDN2K4VA8FAe4TW6B6AkRF7f1uURgadRMSI1q6a8m2czR2fLXptrfEwD5JM_9dXeb5xFDjo/s1600/613d42d6cbf275f2e7db2cc81c1bbd30.jpg.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi22pTODKOBXTK4ZzukFYCJcKAFx986WdZcb3dzy-JIO_AQylpU0ntpzQLPriI8GxqHEUUuMDN2K4VA8FAe4TW6B6AkRF7f1uURgadRMSI1q6a8m2czR2fLXptrfEwD5JM_9dXeb5xFDjo/s320/613d42d6cbf275f2e7db2cc81c1bbd30.jpg.png" width="132" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Print by Lucas De Heere, 1570s</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimplGeJXwLdq3JMVF-xV2T9J9lZzoIzQ3SQ6VVuuV8ISQcYMLUCkqxf1sTcrntWtswLXC05aJhrNze-knDKZnmBUeGwS42q9ZoHTdvk56ilpHslclZZNd3oZAMvwTz42vJHiJE3E9WErs/s1600/Maria_Gonzaga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimplGeJXwLdq3JMVF-xV2T9J9lZzoIzQ3SQ6VVuuV8ISQcYMLUCkqxf1sTcrntWtswLXC05aJhrNze-knDKZnmBUeGwS42q9ZoHTdvk56ilpHslclZZNd3oZAMvwTz42vJHiJE3E9WErs/s320/Maria_Gonzaga.jpg" width="246" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Maria Gonzaga, post 1630</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Then there are these sadly tiny images supposedly of Elizabeth I's funeral procession.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwCESvDXEUxKJ-0sTOrfzZAcT8ct1ZbwIGLcOkmoZMHsHmpV2-uCFetRfTU3z7nY2ke0iORseGBxUNoQvrgWylSg7Fl5ZvtFZHe1-Q-NNWbH3eo8pD_iiTy3ZcXxVvE_rv82MQz56JeLU/s1600/664c7889376703ce95477ccf0b7301d7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwCESvDXEUxKJ-0sTOrfzZAcT8ct1ZbwIGLcOkmoZMHsHmpV2-uCFetRfTU3z7nY2ke0iORseGBxUNoQvrgWylSg7Fl5ZvtFZHe1-Q-NNWbH3eo8pD_iiTy3ZcXxVvE_rv82MQz56JeLU/s320/664c7889376703ce95477ccf0b7301d7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMyjEIUT3yKNjNMZK38k3NPmM0dSqGrG_iR_CvewatHHzvPv0_XvREttJP9gL3ciQCHbCCHaql9QXnco007p7VssSpwjmgl1E8Ge5IhOU79KQauA_QhnlKtDwGZpwom3Fd3BIzAz0nNE/s1600/9cf0f4bfd4b099ee7c8a88a70acfc449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="104" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMyjEIUT3yKNjNMZK38k3NPmM0dSqGrG_iR_CvewatHHzvPv0_XvREttJP9gL3ciQCHbCCHaql9QXnco007p7VssSpwjmgl1E8Ge5IhOU79KQauA_QhnlKtDwGZpwom3Fd3BIzAz0nNE/s320/9cf0f4bfd4b099ee7c8a88a70acfc449.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuAOUoFIX63n6e-vCXOgAm9oYzKKgg3CseOI2d-QqHt75Ca9WjtpePzQfYM8iKOwSjXe_Wf75rKDxH8stbONpJ-jt49HDbRqT0nD648ZtaxAH2abocCDihS5AN3JjiRelT-OyzJGYUOU/s1600/1662b406cd47c2c964b88961aa0cc8f6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="107" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuAOUoFIX63n6e-vCXOgAm9oYzKKgg3CseOI2d-QqHt75Ca9WjtpePzQfYM8iKOwSjXe_Wf75rKDxH8stbONpJ-jt49HDbRqT0nD648ZtaxAH2abocCDihS5AN3JjiRelT-OyzJGYUOU/s320/1662b406cd47c2c964b88961aa0cc8f6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyzMGX6h4e7iwI0wZrFxSJ6rsMg5Cr-lcyzz78T4FPRxVFfDC_l-Nz7u8LTWchxcPfyP8fZKYgC2J6mMZA_gUqK3nsPy3-7uJvL2SSttsxQ8a39H7KOCkCoSfeHCbY4Im7RlIl3w8KWRo/s1600/funeral.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyzMGX6h4e7iwI0wZrFxSJ6rsMg5Cr-lcyzz78T4FPRxVFfDC_l-Nz7u8LTWchxcPfyP8fZKYgC2J6mMZA_gUqK3nsPy3-7uJvL2SSttsxQ8a39H7KOCkCoSfeHCbY4Im7RlIl3w8KWRo/s320/funeral.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFb21Qxd2W3O6EIHzHyj00XULMV_FAI6iyqNWF6RD1anBFikrNj5y2SfER7nnCOUIHaiS-g9NW4-dkbJsOSgq5ZHhG5Fzu_9zNg_Ip2xs72JCAj82N7Qft_QkZVqsKLj7R_89JSUuOmc0/s1600/bib.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFb21Qxd2W3O6EIHzHyj00XULMV_FAI6iyqNWF6RD1anBFikrNj5y2SfER7nnCOUIHaiS-g9NW4-dkbJsOSgq5ZHhG5Fzu_9zNg_Ip2xs72JCAj82N7Qft_QkZVqsKLj7R_89JSUuOmc0/s320/bib.jpg" width="152" /></a></div>
<br />
This begs another question, is this style a popular one for Tomb Brasses because it is related to mourning? (as in Lady Russel images)<br />
Or is was it simply a very short lived but popular style? (as the Issac Oliver images suggest)<br />
Or could it be both? (That the later barbes are falling into line with contemporary fashion)<br />
<br />
Regardless, lets leave the barbes to one side since I'm not convinced the styling in the Dunch image relates to mourning (despite the suggestion that it may be a posthumous portrait). At the very least the apron --which is more evident in this copy-- suggests a more everyday, practical outfit.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCGH8P4Sf7nbfst9hz_goXWhvAtjJLN0QeOAMW8QiMmHXnuyh0DTCaDlkzTQzvK_squQlL0jOeohG3Ds7aiNGV8RfKXFJH39frY5yoKyiy2tp4LA54xa1yZVLehMSwe9218OsyOpEk2Os/s1600/b13ba0508c6cf35aaaea40b013ee839b.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCGH8P4Sf7nbfst9hz_goXWhvAtjJLN0QeOAMW8QiMmHXnuyh0DTCaDlkzTQzvK_squQlL0jOeohG3Ds7aiNGV8RfKXFJH39frY5yoKyiy2tp4LA54xa1yZVLehMSwe9218OsyOpEk2Os/s320/b13ba0508c6cf35aaaea40b013ee839b.png" width="274" /></a></div>
<br />
Outside the context or funerary images, there are a few other images I've come across which may or may not be related to this style but as they are often cropped it's difficult to tell.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSWio43UmxVjWZJzI7l09-1gxTWXUyS4_3swFAiP7rH7DEz9uQm2xoV_VLRw9OLVnutU5SFZHYfF8mcCwRxj2-GXpFwODM6pBs01vprErWTDlWQXqxR4RNSoYA0m8j-Girjh1xn58wBqE/s1600/a2bc6e1dd3193b356f2391980dcc886e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSWio43UmxVjWZJzI7l09-1gxTWXUyS4_3swFAiP7rH7DEz9uQm2xoV_VLRw9OLVnutU5SFZHYfF8mcCwRxj2-GXpFwODM6pBs01vprErWTDlWQXqxR4RNSoYA0m8j-Girjh1xn58wBqE/s320/a2bc6e1dd3193b356f2391980dcc886e.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Unknown Lady, 1595</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYoSJBiyAlRMczSE6NkjZXOPRC11k_R2hmcTIBCAwoCT89og2aRGr-V28mX1_7BfiBRAylg-9Ani6oAAprKFkViRZ6tjPXfGZCTJWID8X5bZEYwQuNYgTfglL2HTCEdFNG5ZeE6MxVdx0/s1600/LNE_GEM_4_1948_002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYoSJBiyAlRMczSE6NkjZXOPRC11k_R2hmcTIBCAwoCT89og2aRGr-V28mX1_7BfiBRAylg-9Ani6oAAprKFkViRZ6tjPXfGZCTJWID8X5bZEYwQuNYgTfglL2HTCEdFNG5ZeE6MxVdx0/s320/LNE_GEM_4_1948_002.jpg" width="272" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Judith de Valera, 1590</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
There also some backwork examples which seem to show a more puffed and gathered look (rather than a rigid stomacher).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCeLHFVbnIHyfCpePVWE3synVsi91xYCmn7SAUByTZeOmlLTJkM-BykyevY_zWSyzKPcpR-cdiyte_z4frLKcmOE0x2loi3RXiq5XuRPSC5SZQs5Ky2AyZoLA1Zt60IGo9TdF_Z3o3JO8/s1600/6cd2aa8650cc41461eabc8600e4c4928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCeLHFVbnIHyfCpePVWE3synVsi91xYCmn7SAUByTZeOmlLTJkM-BykyevY_zWSyzKPcpR-cdiyte_z4frLKcmOE0x2loi3RXiq5XuRPSC5SZQs5Ky2AyZoLA1Zt60IGo9TdF_Z3o3JO8/s320/6cd2aa8650cc41461eabc8600e4c4928.jpg" width="242" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Anne Carew, Lady Throckmorton by Hieronymus Custodis, 1590</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQj0Muo_GQuarxmxMYrwaSxgFYr73VjF6fUSEXfQxGmpqQJBoDPyRUjlFc2iEWvu9CrcYBf3pqidgUdZ3e-tIhy41W7veLA7uqURUwMJrGARJXfWkYAh50p0ghQX6mEHwQzcFjpbBxGbo/s1600/9c7e09792fd681622f2623df1852ebef.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQj0Muo_GQuarxmxMYrwaSxgFYr73VjF6fUSEXfQxGmpqQJBoDPyRUjlFc2iEWvu9CrcYBf3pqidgUdZ3e-tIhy41W7veLA7uqURUwMJrGARJXfWkYAh50p0ghQX6mEHwQzcFjpbBxGbo/s320/9c7e09792fd681622f2623df1852ebef.jpg" width="268" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Lady Throckmorton, 1590</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Then there are earlier styles from the 1570s which might be a precursor...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4nzBFiUswQ8RyU7KBmXdyMTCEioBzo3fehDB2srShZOhyC8-0TZNZoWioXWjvsJhai_-Ui72EsOwoHXzzpf73sPXpjiXnHiBypZi1CfYnl-Vv7RrerfNHa7GdBZ3ZX8N5CGS2HwJL7ng/s1600/WAR_WARCH_4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4nzBFiUswQ8RyU7KBmXdyMTCEioBzo3fehDB2srShZOhyC8-0TZNZoWioXWjvsJhai_-Ui72EsOwoHXzzpf73sPXpjiXnHiBypZi1CfYnl-Vv7RrerfNHa7GdBZ3ZX8N5CGS2HwJL7ng/s320/WAR_WARCH_4.jpg" width="219" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Katherine, Wife of Nicholas Eiffler, 1577</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL5fgzi7ir8W7gilIHWR7F0kpaNgvcL7X-r33VFHGClpu5p2X5JGY-emt2oaRNi3d6xV_2C599aGC6IGybQzEpZCetYKmYqi1dgo48EAERWFU-KUAZLet0MVfI_O-2VrEUqQq92Rry4FA/s1600/6ee72c6a70397d186f94d40003995c80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL5fgzi7ir8W7gilIHWR7F0kpaNgvcL7X-r33VFHGClpu5p2X5JGY-emt2oaRNi3d6xV_2C599aGC6IGybQzEpZCetYKmYqi1dgo48EAERWFU-KUAZLet0MVfI_O-2VrEUqQq92Rry4FA/s320/6ee72c6a70397d186f94d40003995c80.jpg" width="247" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Lady with Puppy by Nicolas Neufchatel, 1550-75</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_iqRCQcEU08_AN3SM-wv_cKXVW79bsnNGlUWPEW1lWLEGArQInWk9bnsw7b1V5uTMe1akuYPQTPW4hCMzvqlujxLSK5LGy7fTeDSrAtFD4919IWzHoN8y-eipBHwmH7mFWttxSehC5Xw/s1600/c12722274af4777b005a4138925ea056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_iqRCQcEU08_AN3SM-wv_cKXVW79bsnNGlUWPEW1lWLEGArQInWk9bnsw7b1V5uTMe1akuYPQTPW4hCMzvqlujxLSK5LGy7fTeDSrAtFD4919IWzHoN8y-eipBHwmH7mFWttxSehC5Xw/s320/c12722274af4777b005a4138925ea056.jpg" width="223" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Portrait of an Unknown Woman, 1568</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCpSALqQJ0tTuNKcj-L0MBl5sjInrx6VnU_QdY9-uyRA5Gz12yROQpwOhDQjSBhxKfsu2oVIkfNrrE0Siwr7QWmnt9GRGrvR8H0nU5WVfbUpxOXNZMCOaH7drQeS-czvXb-gKMmb7kjQ/s1600/c0ad6cc2de0f47b937a75c10d1b18126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCpSALqQJ0tTuNKcj-L0MBl5sjInrx6VnU_QdY9-uyRA5Gz12yROQpwOhDQjSBhxKfsu2oVIkfNrrE0Siwr7QWmnt9GRGrvR8H0nU5WVfbUpxOXNZMCOaH7drQeS-czvXb-gKMmb7kjQ/s320/c0ad6cc2de0f47b937a75c10d1b18126.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Alice Brandon by Nicholas Hilliard, 1578</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The reasons for posting the above images is that they clearly all have integral collars and are front fastening. Whereas the barbes do not have collars and close at the back (with the possible exception of the Russel Portrait).<br />
<br />
In comparison, the Nurse portrait shows a high (un-pleated) collar to which the front piece appears to be gathered.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitsDwlNAMOx0vw4vZ3oNCqV9HV-Ivbqihq8fxWzY_77uYoq3P_nyRzwnXtEYcWIxbvN75B75SmLv_NYZikrflK3tJmWc4ajzmOoNawrRN6YqFbO1TrHXXQSlD6pD9MjncX8bjs4t8T9Qg/s1600/collar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitsDwlNAMOx0vw4vZ3oNCqV9HV-Ivbqihq8fxWzY_77uYoq3P_nyRzwnXtEYcWIxbvN75B75SmLv_NYZikrflK3tJmWc4ajzmOoNawrRN6YqFbO1TrHXXQSlD6pD9MjncX8bjs4t8T9Qg/s400/collar.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
There is no visible front opening. However, I don't know of many examples of back fastening collars for this period...so assuming the collar is integral odds are good it's also front opening.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Which got me thinking about long Venetian partlets: </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1pkveU6SL9_pL2gszF0iJwc6vD9L5uxj6wKYM5ZBtvzvuBK9NSB0w-BGrktV3-M3AeoSbEAvadTgCTk0x1L-39VW8vMTzccaxqVfGT0MkudFB85bDls13UR8YuPMQ-x6_aYVxBpXu3f0/s1600/d2f34f3e6d20025ec7e960425c7cfc73.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1pkveU6SL9_pL2gszF0iJwc6vD9L5uxj6wKYM5ZBtvzvuBK9NSB0w-BGrktV3-M3AeoSbEAvadTgCTk0x1L-39VW8vMTzccaxqVfGT0MkudFB85bDls13UR8YuPMQ-x6_aYVxBpXu3f0/s320/d2f34f3e6d20025ec7e960425c7cfc73.jpg" width="237" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Camilla Gonzaga by Parmigianino, 1523</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXboAyg3kk-VbvcN0qpImqbv19IsmbI80YYv2SrVEGtMayXoH1dC5ZIT40n_mjb1u2nUUAsBZoKQhiTMfhIQ0KXJew5EP9ovpZyPlmMfZuVOvYo_jphUNJqG7k_zwS4OzM1MrNMYo1dXA/s1600/2a05b09d29a46dcc66ebfe641c3c6f28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXboAyg3kk-VbvcN0qpImqbv19IsmbI80YYv2SrVEGtMayXoH1dC5ZIT40n_mjb1u2nUUAsBZoKQhiTMfhIQ0KXJew5EP9ovpZyPlmMfZuVOvYo_jphUNJqG7k_zwS4OzM1MrNMYo1dXA/s320/2a05b09d29a46dcc66ebfe641c3c6f28.jpg" width="246" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Eleonora Averoldi Moretto da Brescia by Alessandro Bonvicino, 1530</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimvZfIer9iSEu4bdi8SAEFrDXjJV9DB5Bg8ICs2o3NlSzIOfFHKNyT-WTZjmRt7UXSCaep2A_T0sH-9UdiVZJDBTcRtgTMx_7LHEHkv6xWTKE2MI_H31ZJ0TkrNSqFonfXpWaunXYEd6A/s1600/14a7f8d1ed09e07e47b0d19b8e0d7605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimvZfIer9iSEu4bdi8SAEFrDXjJV9DB5Bg8ICs2o3NlSzIOfFHKNyT-WTZjmRt7UXSCaep2A_T0sH-9UdiVZJDBTcRtgTMx_7LHEHkv6xWTKE2MI_H31ZJ0TkrNSqFonfXpWaunXYEd6A/s320/14a7f8d1ed09e07e47b0d19b8e0d7605.jpg" width="248" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Pegasus and the Muses (Detail) by Girolamo Romani, 1540s </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEietcN3nFFl5n5xlRYalgRUlvbQ2088CA5FqiNjbZq2SBQqbAKu4yjaJtulvqZ5XoUpNf0WEBsKhEfZhidTDipICMycgZ1iPVWzjRbFzrjDfRN2iyKf4oIv0SXcQylx1VpfArlu7tQH_1c/s1600/db63042911c4ff79c9b66422ad4613ab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEietcN3nFFl5n5xlRYalgRUlvbQ2088CA5FqiNjbZq2SBQqbAKu4yjaJtulvqZ5XoUpNf0WEBsKhEfZhidTDipICMycgZ1iPVWzjRbFzrjDfRN2iyKf4oIv0SXcQylx1VpfArlu7tQH_1c/s320/db63042911c4ff79c9b66422ad4613ab.jpg" width="233" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Abbess Lucrezia Gagliardi Vertova by Giovanni Battista Moroni, 1556</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj1jjfeiC5fLBr4_jkOkteDznF62ymhO1omlgF5fqsvDSZPhNIhuWsnytS1a1hcmOsys2kn5jdAOt360Nqp2ehpprfi_V0J21PswxGi_bdWueVVinhmOesWDzIc1glTkBexgkz5QVJ6Wo/s1600/a551c83e816ed55dd73cf6a58ac14d2a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj1jjfeiC5fLBr4_jkOkteDznF62ymhO1omlgF5fqsvDSZPhNIhuWsnytS1a1hcmOsys2kn5jdAOt360Nqp2ehpprfi_V0J21PswxGi_bdWueVVinhmOesWDzIc1glTkBexgkz5QVJ6Wo/s320/a551c83e816ed55dd73cf6a58ac14d2a.jpg" width="247" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Veronese Woman with a Skull by Paolo Cagliari, 1574</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Despite predating the 1590s English version (sometimes by quite a lot) they may provide a good starting point for reproducing the style. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The one major difference appears to be the presence of a shoulder seam, with the fabric running vertically down the front and back. Whereas the in the English style the folds seem to radiate out from the collar.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJGNC0bmZILRmFIcN6Iku2lEJVkbubNVf-OVYyx6zEVS7bUvtQ-Ip9hYeYXIYOxjV1_jaMk7efRZ8fQGs4NERZdE9Olp4WOGvPDp0y9Pcz5JxQgmkKYL2yBxmGuNTn6NggY2XnsFQCrU8/s1600/test.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJGNC0bmZILRmFIcN6Iku2lEJVkbubNVf-OVYyx6zEVS7bUvtQ-Ip9hYeYXIYOxjV1_jaMk7efRZ8fQGs4NERZdE9Olp4WOGvPDp0y9Pcz5JxQgmkKYL2yBxmGuNTn6NggY2XnsFQCrU8/s320/test.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDmzHBf5cK7zOssb3G6iQ5NGiLcoukIXv7bZ9r0uIBTLexndTQJ1chgInHZXQTUJ-yAMHg0fa66ShwAzWzqUl_Uswzf53bEVWwmrnCRF70PVt5oLkO0q_5rrRX9R8D1oSv8-sCRizHhU/s1600/test2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDmzHBf5cK7zOssb3G6iQ5NGiLcoukIXv7bZ9r0uIBTLexndTQJ1chgInHZXQTUJ-yAMHg0fa66ShwAzWzqUl_Uswzf53bEVWwmrnCRF70PVt5oLkO0q_5rrRX9R8D1oSv8-sCRizHhU/s320/test2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So long story short, I'm still not sure what's going on here but for the sake of a passable reproduction I think the construction could be approached in a couple of different ways.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
All of these may be theatrical cheats, but I think they will get me close to what I'm aiming for... </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSn4vuTPv6qV3FpQNrrtfpVJenJdrp7EizM9NV6D0cBVpxQXT-FPVQNd22tXyYEueVmJV7H8CiYyLXJPlmkrzsk3B-iTws8AJYoqM2s04qOfP25Ahx2IK3EYE8TrNZ5B1v9Zplz4liPUk/s1600/whitefront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSn4vuTPv6qV3FpQNrrtfpVJenJdrp7EizM9NV6D0cBVpxQXT-FPVQNd22tXyYEueVmJV7H8CiYyLXJPlmkrzsk3B-iTws8AJYoqM2s04qOfP25Ahx2IK3EYE8TrNZ5B1v9Zplz4liPUk/s320/whitefront.jpg" width="174" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjsKUHT4Dt_WukkZo5bBAs6EBYGk7xwXZg4c8TZBY0HO8sqQHcYxHqbe4a86_izPsXxbfkI574ooec0dNLOHe0pRyV5aktN0IG4YJ0lmJah1IIBpZF9L3onnXL7twxLlbfQGusbSUcCo4/s1600/whitefront2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjsKUHT4Dt_WukkZo5bBAs6EBYGk7xwXZg4c8TZBY0HO8sqQHcYxHqbe4a86_izPsXxbfkI574ooec0dNLOHe0pRyV5aktN0IG4YJ0lmJah1IIBpZF9L3onnXL7twxLlbfQGusbSUcCo4/s320/whitefront2.jpg" width="174" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUlhpJDF5_7pqjpI4uDPeG0aeR2S69CetQ0Dp_PRc_VL_T90aIjfY_ea76aMg2HPgNQdINlmIowKe-Q06Z1FSlx9Q0YUoEa_jva3L57hj4zfOD_SbaPt4Fa_8gM99JTmyfKWCHOI_9JMY/s1600/whitefront3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUlhpJDF5_7pqjpI4uDPeG0aeR2S69CetQ0Dp_PRc_VL_T90aIjfY_ea76aMg2HPgNQdINlmIowKe-Q06Z1FSlx9Q0YUoEa_jva3L57hj4zfOD_SbaPt4Fa_8gM99JTmyfKWCHOI_9JMY/s320/whitefront3.jpg" width="174" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Version one is essentially an elongated partlet which closes at the back. The front section is gathered at the neck to create a puffed out look. This wouldn't achieve the front point shown in the Isaac Oliver images, but since the Nurse wears an apron this wouldn't be seen anyway. This is probably the biggest cheat of the three but the construction would be simple.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Version two and three are essentially the same except for the location of the neck closure. An un-pleated base would probably be made up first and then second pleated or gathered layer added on top (and then the edges bound all the way around).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
In this case the question would be how to achieve the gathers? Should they be loose and unstructured? Sharply pleated? Or perhaps even smocked?</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
I've also been looking at later examples for possible inspiration, including 18th riding costumes...</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKDpfrXXA2E2hUaQpv2EzvIT11xUzqR21pGpUAmMvXTXkgsmYF4Kq3HhtU0ziZHEqUViNGfRO-dIxyIbWAynumKC39qmEqLObhnwllKLrBF-SL3xTscIOH0HXCtAnfdnUpAcCsv9ZZMTQ/s1600/d31969a9f0914f59a962a5cafa9ca062.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKDpfrXXA2E2hUaQpv2EzvIT11xUzqR21pGpUAmMvXTXkgsmYF4Kq3HhtU0ziZHEqUViNGfRO-dIxyIbWAynumKC39qmEqLObhnwllKLrBF-SL3xTscIOH0HXCtAnfdnUpAcCsv9ZZMTQ/s320/d31969a9f0914f59a962a5cafa9ca062.jpg" width="294" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRJEBqg3yYSXJUDgDRPazsYFKWLDpYzvwhDo_WnOSlm43-QYNOlYtJ5hvv2XObBVijTf-VeAr3ImTLHLMt3lR_2oOSYE6KqFHRf3xPXtTm7-0Z-MP1jD0JkLVRFv518GRcTmhsnmoUTM/s1600/7e4e921768f849b8a3e4d76fb92c0388.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRJEBqg3yYSXJUDgDRPazsYFKWLDpYzvwhDo_WnOSlm43-QYNOlYtJ5hvv2XObBVijTf-VeAr3ImTLHLMt3lR_2oOSYE6KqFHRf3xPXtTm7-0Z-MP1jD0JkLVRFv518GRcTmhsnmoUTM/s320/7e4e921768f849b8a3e4d76fb92c0388.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8evtOkWABX9nO7t56iDeMBrVQAYldepUSSkx4_DztygkPM_qVz2LELTXosBcLDlESsya-2oorKtQNRIfXC7YJbxWtzLa6yTxTzZSLSyn6YGRYb1dy3yoK7QZrTSVS_fXGG7zWt2NQryk/s1600/c6ead705829e4e74144dcf52f355a0f3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8evtOkWABX9nO7t56iDeMBrVQAYldepUSSkx4_DztygkPM_qVz2LELTXosBcLDlESsya-2oorKtQNRIfXC7YJbxWtzLa6yTxTzZSLSyn6YGRYb1dy3yoK7QZrTSVS_fXGG7zWt2NQryk/s320/c6ead705829e4e74144dcf52f355a0f3.jpg" width="230" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
...and the Victorian/Edwardian inspired nightgown from "Crimson Peak".</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLxy1gUecbnmNI_VjeUINskYKaOKT7FyikyC1B3AkY0hKpqtJgs72ZldXVhGgrvyyroDyuzxC8o7Ac9b4njOKTtRBZDSgD2NAYebjGAYO0ESaeiuBW8a_kKEtD_X9o5OXTrNuZUvueXaQ/s1600/IMG_2625.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLxy1gUecbnmNI_VjeUINskYKaOKT7FyikyC1B3AkY0hKpqtJgs72ZldXVhGgrvyyroDyuzxC8o7Ac9b4njOKTtRBZDSgD2NAYebjGAYO0ESaeiuBW8a_kKEtD_X9o5OXTrNuZUvueXaQ/s320/IMG_2625.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkf0JrVqq0vIE3naq1x8T-mipZIuUwnN65SMrv6ejmEu1boXggLpyytoQVycy41gYs5l35Uq9zDOUaoIcqeKozX8yWRUZITSEcajzWJ7yKqrO5J7tdPNq6Tv5oKjBsnOZXa0SaIl8ZKb8/s1600/IMG_2634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkf0JrVqq0vIE3naq1x8T-mipZIuUwnN65SMrv6ejmEu1boXggLpyytoQVycy41gYs5l35Uq9zDOUaoIcqeKozX8yWRUZITSEcajzWJ7yKqrO5J7tdPNq6Tv5oKjBsnOZXa0SaIl8ZKb8/s320/IMG_2634.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Mostly because it reminds me of other (slightly later) tomb monuments.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj7CcM3YtY1o2nXJbEE4w_zZdDW06MdDZv0ktfxlNSArqDH68N44h96ufqXyjxCIPxT1pVJTF8eVPtzgOYPqdbIKrIZurFLTHhjr0MeF4bbSfO85noIP6pPM-Qx4P0pvGIH3u5bGmyWI4/s1600/edb0bfef7c77b474c71e7fa0d19579b5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj7CcM3YtY1o2nXJbEE4w_zZdDW06MdDZv0ktfxlNSArqDH68N44h96ufqXyjxCIPxT1pVJTF8eVPtzgOYPqdbIKrIZurFLTHhjr0MeF4bbSfO85noIP6pPM-Qx4P0pvGIH3u5bGmyWI4/s320/edb0bfef7c77b474c71e7fa0d19579b5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Sir Toby Chauncy and his two wives (detail), 1607</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Anyway! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Still lots of things to think about, but with any luck I'll have something to show before the end of this year's Faire Season!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-48003993024911244532017-01-29T21:19:00.002-08:002017-07-09T10:47:55.005-07:00Red & Tan Petticoat Bodies<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
So I decided I needed a new foundation garment! I also wanted to re-draft my kirtle bodice (again) and experiment with less boning...or in this case, no boning at all.<br />
To that end I made a my first set of petticoat bodies!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaE0nlKSysouMy71qO7VLznXL4CoGO13aBgAsnCpD0tIOSHZBz7_6C53BrOi8p5d_mrUqLiHMeSQTRyixp913E7dD1piWj33fL21iNWmJY8Q27VKc8KzuvtpBINDjGbFPQ-KAlWt8LWvA/s1600/Petticoat+Bodies_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaE0nlKSysouMy71qO7VLznXL4CoGO13aBgAsnCpD0tIOSHZBz7_6C53BrOi8p5d_mrUqLiHMeSQTRyixp913E7dD1piWj33fL21iNWmJY8Q27VKc8KzuvtpBINDjGbFPQ-KAlWt8LWvA/s400/Petticoat+Bodies_02.jpg" width="212" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPqBD8Htl-nGTHtwLXT3_fDwTFSwJXJsSCOSfHWclaMeHQck3swUjG71SZRqJj1cysvaY3h83zBACf8I7OO9IdtfAkUJ7l7yD-k3j0YIMiQRFU4GsAsInlBlL9D3FDjsGYxUVD3Wv6V7M/s1600/Petticoat+Bodies_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPqBD8Htl-nGTHtwLXT3_fDwTFSwJXJsSCOSfHWclaMeHQck3swUjG71SZRqJj1cysvaY3h83zBACf8I7OO9IdtfAkUJ7l7yD-k3j0YIMiQRFU4GsAsInlBlL9D3FDjsGYxUVD3Wv6V7M/s400/Petticoat+Bodies_03.jpg" width="236" /></a></div>
<br />
I had originally intended to pair it with my<a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/12/brown-fitted-gown-v20-now-with-huik.html"> Lucas de Heere gown</a> at last year's Nottingham Faire, but wasn't able to finish in time. <br />
Still, I'd been badly in need of a new red petticoat for a while now. I have two in linen but it's about time I had one in wool (it's the more historically accurate fabric and I just think it looks nicer).<br />
And the red petticoat is one of the most ubiquitous items of clothing in the period...so it will definitely not go waste!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicci6Rf13AWPFgg1aDkDNkUITCnwXaMxRcpkKHCNjBd73DDBLUUVv3gxSQ3FMp5HRKkNap1xpj1mHxf6neUTn-WYpK7DcdcceoTIGHJjkryiSUF7xWKPgqJFG_DZrvKRj5og18iYtEGO8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-12-19+at+8.59.17+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicci6Rf13AWPFgg1aDkDNkUITCnwXaMxRcpkKHCNjBd73DDBLUUVv3gxSQ3FMp5HRKkNap1xpj1mHxf6neUTn-WYpK7DcdcceoTIGHJjkryiSUF7xWKPgqJFG_DZrvKRj5og18iYtEGO8/s400/Screen+Shot+2016-12-19+at+8.59.17+AM.png" width="313" /></a></div>
<br />
While my other petticoats consist only of skirts, this one is attached to a bodice or "upper bodies", hence the term "petticoat bodies". <br />
How this different from a kirtle? Well, to be honest I'm not exactly sure...the two terms seems to have been interchangeable at different times in period. But in general the petticoat bodies appear to be the most basic foundation layer after the smock, with a kirtle (or gown, or waistcoat) worn over it.<br />
(For a more in depth look at the terminology check out Samantha's excellent write up at the <a href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/2015/08/although-garment-has-been-finished-for.html">Couture Courtesan</a>. Not only does she quote excellent historical sources, but her petticoat is to die for!)<br />
<br />
Since I was basing my petticoat on the de Heere print I knew I wanted a red petticoat, guarded and bound in black wool. I opted for a lovely red worsted flannel and black herringbone tape (which I had left over from my brown gown).<br />
That only left the bodice...<br />
<br />
Current research indicates that most support garments of this type would have been made of heavy canvas or even paste buckram for support (rather than boning) so I want to try something similar.<br />
While I'd love to experiment with buckram in the future, for now I settle on several layers of linen and muslin pad stitched together.<br />
I also decide to finish the bodice in wool. I don't know if it's accurate, but since I'm hoping to use this new bodice pattern for a kirtle later I want to see how it behaves in wool (plus wool is much more forgiving when it comes to a smooth finished look).<br />
<br />
But I after decided on wool for the bodice I actually end up with slightly too much of it...<br />
Originally I had thought about using a lovely white worsted wool from WM Booth Draper (the same wool I used on my sleeves for the de Heere gown) but it was out of stock, so I picked up some tan wool in the fashion district. <br />
However, 2 yards of the white wool became available again and then I had a conundrum.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdcCN88A_UlrmEXQ4NRC74JD28gP8MRJxFAbDiQ-vgYUAITYFTsxN86UCxI9KBbq4EDSbtHmSVU-Y0ayn1MauMkVfSVXfBQkqlXizPB8GPHK8NiOroWgpErX6xS6iaQNmFXh5Q6m8qABc/s1600/13872707_10157266639140254_1594134831004882463_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdcCN88A_UlrmEXQ4NRC74JD28gP8MRJxFAbDiQ-vgYUAITYFTsxN86UCxI9KBbq4EDSbtHmSVU-Y0ayn1MauMkVfSVXfBQkqlXizPB8GPHK8NiOroWgpErX6xS6iaQNmFXh5Q6m8qABc/s320/13872707_10157266639140254_1594134831004882463_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Which to pick? I still liked the white wool A LOT and thought about dubbing it the "Canada Petticoat!" (or "Polish Petticoat"...either would have been applicable). <br />
But since this was that last of the bolt and I was experimenting with a new bodice pattern I decide to save it for bigger and better things and opt for the tan instead.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ar6ll3T_R1sFE-nLFiUH4J9iRloHposWIVPgjYeSi3cRTdI3oErD_uSxhLwpf1dpJfvK0b8Hxff-AXp3CKwP64KIrOBhtp6IJEd9fYCUxUFcQDeDhsBWNGQooz0p5zZw7Q5G-oRbDtQ/s1600/design-petticoat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ar6ll3T_R1sFE-nLFiUH4J9iRloHposWIVPgjYeSi3cRTdI3oErD_uSxhLwpf1dpJfvK0b8Hxff-AXp3CKwP64KIrOBhtp6IJEd9fYCUxUFcQDeDhsBWNGQooz0p5zZw7Q5G-oRbDtQ/s400/design-petticoat.jpg" width="220" /></a></div>
<br />
With the design finalized it's on to the construction!<br />
<br />
First things first...I needed a new bodice pattern. Badly. <br />
Sadly my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/01/beige-brown-kirtle-with-grey-guards.html">last kirtle attempt</a> gave me a lot of grief in the form of terrible back and shoulder pain. Part of the problem is that I have one wonky shoulder. Most people do, but mine is really wonky (like, dented clavicle wonky. When your parents tell you not to wear your bookbag on one shoulder you should listen!)<br />
But for some reason I had never taken this into consideration when fitting my previous bodices. Not only that, but the adjustments I made on the last bodice (especially widening the shoulder straps) seems to have made things worse. I thought it would have been more supportive...but somehow the opposite was true and it pinched in places.<br />
<br />
So a new bodice pattern was called for! <br />
My first bodice was based on the <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2013/11/grey-linen-corsetbodies.html">Tudor Tailor Dorothea corset pattern</a> which had fairly straight shoulder straps in the front and back.<br />
So while I used my current pattern as a starting point for the body the straps are altered slightly to follow the lines of the TT kirtle pattern, which has more angled straps with the back running on the bias. I also decide to curve the back straps to allow even more give across the back of the shoulders.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR6OTOpAX0FtM784NYvjtiDXT_PxqhmM-tO8VICMWs9HUwNyY7TIwLeJJ4aVqJJRA4AVZxf-4tV4mpGGRZs7In2jzQGgsJOP-CdpKL9XSf8lmhLVvQsQ_Wign9NwT7sthN67JuqigdI0k/s1600/bodies_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR6OTOpAX0FtM784NYvjtiDXT_PxqhmM-tO8VICMWs9HUwNyY7TIwLeJJ4aVqJJRA4AVZxf-4tV4mpGGRZs7In2jzQGgsJOP-CdpKL9XSf8lmhLVvQsQ_Wign9NwT7sthN67JuqigdI0k/s320/bodies_04.jpg" width="215" /></a></div>
<br />
The actual construction of the support layers is pretty similar to that of my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2015/05/the-impromptu-greensleeves-kirtle.html">brown</a> and <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/01/beige-brown-kirtle-with-grey-guards.html">beige</a> kirtles, so I won't go into too much detail here.<br />
Basically, the two foundation layers (in this case a hemp linen canvas and cotton muslin) are pad stitched together. Then channels are sewn by machine. I used the same boning patterns as before (including the bust cutout) but this time they will only serve as quilting. I don't know why I even bothered with the bust line...it probably doesn't make a difference, but I thought if it added a bit of support I might as well have it as not. <br />
<br />
Speaking of support...<br />
I had made a few mockups before assembling the pieces above, but I still wasn't 100% happy with the fit. Boning lets you get away with a bit, but without it any fit and support issues really become evident. So before moving forward with the bodice I went back to my mockup to see if I could do anything make the bust more supportive. The best thing I could come up with (short of starting over) was to take out some volume below the bustline.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn2ok064aK0oDa1Rl0I3zBU6acr7JUH_qMWWYJiPRv4hmOm48leSk_Q1GnFTjLVazYKWsgTnga5Who5nvymW6z5eem-ncRxlWP9LFnLUnXcOHLzBdQMqizTGmBKoSdEZOYSsQmi7Aa6wM/s1600/bodies_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn2ok064aK0oDa1Rl0I3zBU6acr7JUH_qMWWYJiPRv4hmOm48leSk_Q1GnFTjLVazYKWsgTnga5Who5nvymW6z5eem-ncRxlWP9LFnLUnXcOHLzBdQMqizTGmBKoSdEZOYSsQmi7Aa6wM/s320/bodies_05.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I wasn't sure how this would work out in the long run (and I'm still not) because it means the lacing edges will no longer be on the grain, having been shifted slightly to the bias.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicxe-tI_l3bsxOGa-xa5JCpS3oZiuMaMnJnizsGJIylA26VPyD0zFFshX2e_W_GKa8wkevZlKAxLizftHgjWSHNpeinMmf7v9kY-2Zr3Lop8Y-3WsdMpHszxQkNhwYuG5pqW-PIh9CLjU/s1600/bodice+repattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicxe-tI_l3bsxOGa-xa5JCpS3oZiuMaMnJnizsGJIylA26VPyD0zFFshX2e_W_GKa8wkevZlKAxLizftHgjWSHNpeinMmf7v9kY-2Zr3Lop8Y-3WsdMpHszxQkNhwYuG5pqW-PIh9CLjU/s400/bodice+repattern.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
I guess we'll see! Oh well...<br />
<br />
Moving on!<br />
Next the outer fabric is pad stitched to the foundation laters and the bodice assembled (again, see the the earlier posts for more details and photos). The only real difference is that this time I decided to bind the upper edges, so while the bottom edge has a seam allowance the bustline and straps do not. No real reason...I just thought it might save time later since clipping seams around the underarms could be fiddly and time consuming and at this point I'm still working towards a deadline (which I will not meet).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7N99ali8fREhKKqn8otcT0UjS5QzkZSkYuD3ncxh79s0bqf6614TujVQWSg4DD-dbBDS9O31N7jZhVpG5HbOJd03aKze7ka65t6hUkyArQXAJal6vWEaSdGzHnkFYAfDIor2Iwb-IWiQ/s1600/bodies_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7N99ali8fREhKKqn8otcT0UjS5QzkZSkYuD3ncxh79s0bqf6614TujVQWSg4DD-dbBDS9O31N7jZhVpG5HbOJd03aKze7ka65t6hUkyArQXAJal6vWEaSdGzHnkFYAfDIor2Iwb-IWiQ/s320/bodies_06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmDqkG_dS7TeTHbCJEykbWSk1UU5l0oZZq0G5FgllfN6imyegZS4MEq4DVGdNH14f9MItEaeOLdb437o2dmJXkLIyyBPgLn32NJBe-luEV4TmUnNVF96D8nPhEe93bPh4iEiGDh-ugRbE/s1600/bodies_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmDqkG_dS7TeTHbCJEykbWSk1UU5l0oZZq0G5FgllfN6imyegZS4MEq4DVGdNH14f9MItEaeOLdb437o2dmJXkLIyyBPgLn32NJBe-luEV4TmUnNVF96D8nPhEe93bPh4iEiGDh-ugRbE/s320/bodies_07.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
And this time I also decide to add a lining! This is made up separately and basted down around the edges.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1a6RkfdRYiA-f-VljGlss7hGsWtHNpkuc7e_Y8-AtIP-NFycsEUexee84Xyl9a5zAiZzFtug0Mm2JXBCrBZWHs1Mhbq3NfcmmGnMrtGLmWtE96JB4_w_KdhDsHqK_5AQKncBrjS5KEMI/s1600/bodies_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1a6RkfdRYiA-f-VljGlss7hGsWtHNpkuc7e_Y8-AtIP-NFycsEUexee84Xyl9a5zAiZzFtug0Mm2JXBCrBZWHs1Mhbq3NfcmmGnMrtGLmWtE96JB4_w_KdhDsHqK_5AQKncBrjS5KEMI/s320/bodies_08.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The front edges are folded over roughly an inch from the edge and stitched down. This is so there are fewer layers to sew through later when making the eyelets.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then the bottom edges are folded over the raw edge of the lining and hem stitched down (trying to catch some of the foundation layers but not the outer fabric)</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkianVkbZZwqoljbSbqaDa2tuQcT0F3gslKUbHCyX1r_m0hZp4ADNu0EqbHLCJwA2w5sZFaSgqateO2XunD6Ur1SuesdsTojJ0IuChRQezRth_sMKDtQey3qz7ctgZikecPbUMF1rPt7w/s1600/bodies_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkianVkbZZwqoljbSbqaDa2tuQcT0F3gslKUbHCyX1r_m0hZp4ADNu0EqbHLCJwA2w5sZFaSgqateO2XunD6Ur1SuesdsTojJ0IuChRQezRth_sMKDtQey3qz7ctgZikecPbUMF1rPt7w/s320/bodies_10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The top edges are also stitched down more securely by machine (about 1/4" from the edge)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr2JkWwle8mvvXY1wW1wKTnUm0fQuaiMROrBTEw1TvRwiubjlZE07Wx_x9RKrgvBDkUKXf2uiwFf3IZGeGvUZKTqdMeFR1pSYtUPhxtbVWsktc-uS-SAGIXcmz0U0g6pGNYfuGJW3xtmc/s1600/bodies_11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr2JkWwle8mvvXY1wW1wKTnUm0fQuaiMROrBTEw1TvRwiubjlZE07Wx_x9RKrgvBDkUKXf2uiwFf3IZGeGvUZKTqdMeFR1pSYtUPhxtbVWsktc-uS-SAGIXcmz0U0g6pGNYfuGJW3xtmc/s320/bodies_11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Then the front edges are marked for spiral lacing.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlQjmgdTRbRZ76s_qCvWeGNn8_1u-x5MmmQaVsuchb8qu7A2VVRK-3gv3kQgiwWMzDG7H7e9zOd1ndp_o_jihe4oSp82mra_DWNP5w4z0AyCr7OCB4tBrjJN6TR2ouB7XLzDL_TaPMbtQ/s1600/bodies_12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlQjmgdTRbRZ76s_qCvWeGNn8_1u-x5MmmQaVsuchb8qu7A2VVRK-3gv3kQgiwWMzDG7H7e9zOd1ndp_o_jihe4oSp82mra_DWNP5w4z0AyCr7OCB4tBrjJN6TR2ouB7XLzDL_TaPMbtQ/s320/bodies_12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3IJculEUugosR-NpSIhMowIWCZbNLvPpSLL9qKqAk1-rSQ1sPO94doM1YEFdCpWrBXa43Hc-tWsgaxI40fZ1425AMyydpiK9G2UPeA7BXSOpQisLXc-qYx-hRhexRoUbUAGK3SCZJDPU/s1600/bodies_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3IJculEUugosR-NpSIhMowIWCZbNLvPpSLL9qKqAk1-rSQ1sPO94doM1YEFdCpWrBXa43Hc-tWsgaxI40fZ1425AMyydpiK9G2UPeA7BXSOpQisLXc-qYx-hRhexRoUbUAGK3SCZJDPU/s320/bodies_13.jpg" width="212" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The eyelets are made with a tapered awl and sewn by hand. This time I decided to abandon the buttonhole stitched I used for my previous eyelets since it's easier to repair a simple stitch if thread frays (as it inevitably will with use).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigz6BVUUF_6w08ZVvZXb8gpqf4Svf57GwB_bAtW8MoCNmwGNn7hXHJqygwr8j0tvK6tAS_ZvY6hvkSHNuqkilGDLNukHOXKQ6hzL-TVg-ytRqFjYjSpvVTacpTB5Q-urtJ4mzcJPY6Ocw/s1600/bodies_14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigz6BVUUF_6w08ZVvZXb8gpqf4Svf57GwB_bAtW8MoCNmwGNn7hXHJqygwr8j0tvK6tAS_ZvY6hvkSHNuqkilGDLNukHOXKQ6hzL-TVg-ytRqFjYjSpvVTacpTB5Q-urtJ4mzcJPY6Ocw/s320/bodies_14.jpg" width="225" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoGT5pRkhSe6JDwYCU6yBv0u8I-_CRfF3JEb7eMI4X0tLtGK_-SlX34OKjty_yZ6UY_ueK1fPIqd4hFXIowe_uklkBs7nTDqMOIfZ3ReS_sAoUPoQg8hD4LoGO1dH5HaeZ9IU8tGVEX9k/s1600/bodies_15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoGT5pRkhSe6JDwYCU6yBv0u8I-_CRfF3JEb7eMI4X0tLtGK_-SlX34OKjty_yZ6UY_ueK1fPIqd4hFXIowe_uklkBs7nTDqMOIfZ3ReS_sAoUPoQg8hD4LoGO1dH5HaeZ9IU8tGVEX9k/s320/bodies_15.jpg" width="230" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Next it's time to sew the shoulder straps together, through the foundation layers only. The lining is temporarily left loose.<br />
(I also take up the wonky shoulder by an additional 1/4" on each side to even out the fit)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUAVqtjb1qHZ1dwGUxf1CGhY1UE_aK3eLJAg9Hd9dV_UW9_dS59GAuVLihqmPJkRLUKsoN3FH7myzyoShbsqKMoqkiaO8ZSRO3Hiwh-CZjTu7FSdrfeHoE3qu3-KTyfYKuuAu9RP68JFA/s1600/bodies_16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUAVqtjb1qHZ1dwGUxf1CGhY1UE_aK3eLJAg9Hd9dV_UW9_dS59GAuVLihqmPJkRLUKsoN3FH7myzyoShbsqKMoqkiaO8ZSRO3Hiwh-CZjTu7FSdrfeHoE3qu3-KTyfYKuuAu9RP68JFA/s320/bodies_16.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Then the seam allowance is basted down.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiisSzfUVgZqClpK-hkvghWBUpXdDVZdM0dr0K-ZdGiP8M1_KkQ9BHCaNIyF4RCS8jJwF2BS_6-KsQfxF6WDW8aGngU9C-Ox3nandbgQ5EGvTABh1Sfk_6bcjaerzHNTHT-an02yEAu4vM/s1600/bodies_17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiisSzfUVgZqClpK-hkvghWBUpXdDVZdM0dr0K-ZdGiP8M1_KkQ9BHCaNIyF4RCS8jJwF2BS_6-KsQfxF6WDW8aGngU9C-Ox3nandbgQ5EGvTABh1Sfk_6bcjaerzHNTHT-an02yEAu4vM/s320/bodies_17.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Next the lining is basted down towards the back of the shoulder seam...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVFGsP95y2NqxrmgNF3A194zn60v13fcC7JNCFAxuXOozLkTG703PpQKLDeggCUHqUDQwzejbnHDqC33BpPERc4QGgPzfSIQwMSvmHihHF4HRSZm6LspUR8KV4j-qIzkFQD_0F72XUCnI/s1600/bodies_18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVFGsP95y2NqxrmgNF3A194zn60v13fcC7JNCFAxuXOozLkTG703PpQKLDeggCUHqUDQwzejbnHDqC33BpPERc4QGgPzfSIQwMSvmHihHF4HRSZm6LspUR8KV4j-qIzkFQD_0F72XUCnI/s320/bodies_18.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
...and the back track folded under and hem stitched over it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxuiA0zOUHenAfrxUW3rgFPcbJGHR9A1xS4cShQa8IVcpx1uxTjOkgWEFH7m_jTSFbqm6XyKN-wPDIqk5wlHcH3LnYYEzOeayayYzigkReS-u8FwiELuncgpbeA-eEtwSKJrDwuum8DXk/s1600/bodies_19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxuiA0zOUHenAfrxUW3rgFPcbJGHR9A1xS4cShQa8IVcpx1uxTjOkgWEFH7m_jTSFbqm6XyKN-wPDIqk5wlHcH3LnYYEzOeayayYzigkReS-u8FwiELuncgpbeA-eEtwSKJrDwuum8DXk/s320/bodies_19.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
This slightly reduces the bulk at the shoulder seam.<br />
With the bodice now assembled the temporary pad stitching is removed and it's time to bind the top edges.<br />
(You can also see the uneven shoulder straps here, with the one on the left --my right side-- being shorter)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPuIiGGQYDS5SbD1IYjlbdoiakABoScNe-bzIrukn5GlM5bvgThXiCMkMeHP09mno5Ls9Gm_KHMlYHegM72sDLRsuv6-3_InHOo5hoYMMdfM6ynFvIiHPp-Zs6WDj3ZPLVXYRmdhC6p0/s1600/bodies_20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPuIiGGQYDS5SbD1IYjlbdoiakABoScNe-bzIrukn5GlM5bvgThXiCMkMeHP09mno5Ls9Gm_KHMlYHegM72sDLRsuv6-3_InHOo5hoYMMdfM6ynFvIiHPp-Zs6WDj3ZPLVXYRmdhC6p0/s320/bodies_20.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The top is bound with self fabric bias tape (roughly 1.5" wide). It's stitched down about 3/8" away from the edge.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7rOBXpkEUytDIIMITipdWUD708K62MS5ehTDtv3XqGotsW0Y_GmEDnVBxzzEE8cZ48jdCxaXaNHEW3lOG6_QHCIATVKhOZV_SYYTrvut1nKboFswFv8_-sSt-qjXgmEdz9djmVSyo1T4/s1600/bodies_21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7rOBXpkEUytDIIMITipdWUD708K62MS5ehTDtv3XqGotsW0Y_GmEDnVBxzzEE8cZ48jdCxaXaNHEW3lOG6_QHCIATVKhOZV_SYYTrvut1nKboFswFv8_-sSt-qjXgmEdz9djmVSyo1T4/s320/bodies_21.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Then the edges are turned and hem stitched down to the inside of the bodice.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7IX1IfV6DUdN76XB93Htre-hG7GE8xOZpWXvjapo9E-GDyBPHjfRqxu7DErQEBTtkOH5z4wZNdoTT8fIm6in2sD7zcpuutWvaF1Ds7xTNWDr9_Qvy8glmi-0u9d1XlQhU4XIexpn0UnA/s1600/bodies_23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7IX1IfV6DUdN76XB93Htre-hG7GE8xOZpWXvjapo9E-GDyBPHjfRqxu7DErQEBTtkOH5z4wZNdoTT8fIm6in2sD7zcpuutWvaF1Ds7xTNWDr9_Qvy8glmi-0u9d1XlQhU4XIexpn0UnA/s320/bodies_23.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The same processes repeated around the arm holes.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3lLPady8TMposEvSX34Y1py1huk9YkznCjfOykUbhaqlxf0TOuJkQOM_t3XIDiN0JGmJZaqzALqmzd3LiO7V6hvdeYFum7L_xccwM1dnQFUJwPoWFD7gneze42wp4KzdmjamNyriWzrg/s1600/bodies_26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3lLPady8TMposEvSX34Y1py1huk9YkznCjfOykUbhaqlxf0TOuJkQOM_t3XIDiN0JGmJZaqzALqmzd3LiO7V6hvdeYFum7L_xccwM1dnQFUJwPoWFD7gneze42wp4KzdmjamNyriWzrg/s320/bodies_26.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
And that's it! The bodice is bound and finished.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFTLPTLTj0KXA73JaKywA-FpyuuVWFg_JunEkOUHWcDOOaKgf6kBupQ9HMwDh-RwmK4LxR_jw_3OEJ4-8vZmvjO3J1_HwvP76DugJIY2daAv5Y8bjxYq0PpA8T0aRfgUCVylV8fSDAFI/s1600/bodies_24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFTLPTLTj0KXA73JaKywA-FpyuuVWFg_JunEkOUHWcDOOaKgf6kBupQ9HMwDh-RwmK4LxR_jw_3OEJ4-8vZmvjO3J1_HwvP76DugJIY2daAv5Y8bjxYq0PpA8T0aRfgUCVylV8fSDAFI/s320/bodies_24.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNKq6hJaJ2HFA5QK9moUfX7Fd8gc2a39FInCA7tdcC21j_qtpaIuGWWmiEYTTBPJSPhF1kv8JQFd4H5B3qKlJlL3gtxOwjdcg0S-oahNixj_i2dBojpRhUiMKV0vwHU_AP2mLyFWbETc4/s1600/bodies_25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNKq6hJaJ2HFA5QK9moUfX7Fd8gc2a39FInCA7tdcC21j_qtpaIuGWWmiEYTTBPJSPhF1kv8JQFd4H5B3qKlJlL3gtxOwjdcg0S-oahNixj_i2dBojpRhUiMKV0vwHU_AP2mLyFWbETc4/s320/bodies_25.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now it's time to make up the skirt.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As I mentioned earlier, the petticoat is made from a lightweight worsted flannel and comprises of two 60" panels sewn together along the selvage ends (making a final circumference of 120").</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now, usually I would attach the skirt to the bodice first and then hem it, but having made two other kirtles I already knew the length I needed and how to attach it so I decide to finish the bottom edge first and get that out of the way (which will bite me in the butt later, as you will see...)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Since this is a foundation garment I decide I want a bit more bulk around the hem, so instead of just binding the edge I fold up about 3" at the bottom which is then basted down with a running stitch to hold it in place.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQwvLbnR3_FgQIWq2-Mi40L4KYCMNl5P8pSN13Bki6zytSYhiZ5D6xBs-El5rM4Qit7BklZ5ZyImj6A5gr1eEoZ5EyTiB3NE2w9mCu4T0MgIG-l-UNcMIjxBMNhDAs_sNWen53NUhEmHk/s1600/bodies_27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQwvLbnR3_FgQIWq2-Mi40L4KYCMNl5P8pSN13Bki6zytSYhiZ5D6xBs-El5rM4Qit7BklZ5ZyImj6A5gr1eEoZ5EyTiB3NE2w9mCu4T0MgIG-l-UNcMIjxBMNhDAs_sNWen53NUhEmHk/s320/bodies_27.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then the bottom edge is pressed and stitched down by machine. Next the wool tape pinned into place.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLzTk1p4JqCb3B4BcfL1O7_t2-hxyXFanYXMTgqu8yfYsLtZ7ce6tJ7GGtOiYWQdFBivNCTcEIq0np38IF4CJjyXI9NyQa6MFMUQl_ef_N_8wDr4Byn94YBHG10UDbog-r_P3ESsvjkw/s1600/bodies_28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLzTk1p4JqCb3B4BcfL1O7_t2-hxyXFanYXMTgqu8yfYsLtZ7ce6tJ7GGtOiYWQdFBivNCTcEIq0np38IF4CJjyXI9NyQa6MFMUQl_ef_N_8wDr4Byn94YBHG10UDbog-r_P3ESsvjkw/s320/bodies_28.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Let me take a second here to talk about trim placement...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
My inspiration image shows a red petticoat bound in black. It's guarded with a single black guard (which is roughly double the width of the binding) and the space between the binding and the guard looks to be equal to the guard itself. So given 1" wool tape I should have 1/2" of binding, then a 1" strip of red followed by a 1" guard. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
However, that's not what I actually do. Since the petticoat will most be seen from slightly above I decide to leave an extra 1/4" between the biding and the guard to correct for foreshortening. Hopefully this will make the final trim placement look more visually balanced.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Anyway...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
The trim it stitched down along the top and bottom edges. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
(I use the machine for this since the herringbone pattern is very forgiving and hides the visible machine stitches well...at least from the front)</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Td-bFnGarKlInboWaqKeJ4P3DtMI2E42B_uvbIsnF6L9eG_JOQ5OyJzJqsFLuBwlRyb3VLJ9M5MRnBQpdIsmcH0gTgwBrKV_75hVKQT61as8oyZhqJDpdyyGpwVcH_o_jTlOQl6Y818/s1600/bodies_29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Td-bFnGarKlInboWaqKeJ4P3DtMI2E42B_uvbIsnF6L9eG_JOQ5OyJzJqsFLuBwlRyb3VLJ9M5MRnBQpdIsmcH0gTgwBrKV_75hVKQT61as8oyZhqJDpdyyGpwVcH_o_jTlOQl6Y818/s320/bodies_29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMZResoz2vtSqXnOVuiTjSDICOPZ-l8HOOHDulaY-jfMXj_DNiIbbpDKh8If-gV6Q2HN63MFdm_SaW2aq5x00jmPt85WWcL_22Sxp_BQ7g5sO1hyphenhyphendR2XK-YR8EfKibi7B8586PF5G-spI/s1600/bodies_30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMZResoz2vtSqXnOVuiTjSDICOPZ-l8HOOHDulaY-jfMXj_DNiIbbpDKh8If-gV6Q2HN63MFdm_SaW2aq5x00jmPt85WWcL_22Sxp_BQ7g5sO1hyphenhyphendR2XK-YR8EfKibi7B8586PF5G-spI/s320/bodies_30.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="text-align: center;">Then the hem is bound in the same tape.</span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg99BoBf02kaXr_g9bei5BWG0itXIn5ni7uYhasGnu7hBRq5LBGJHuQYWJI_xQT9WSdNWHmnwKxmIAKnxlcOgHAYbdBzgC_QIJb_W7PsJKmywafVuBCIuZMbBLGwRgSHjSoAWxw44phoOU/s1600/bodies_31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg99BoBf02kaXr_g9bei5BWG0itXIn5ni7uYhasGnu7hBRq5LBGJHuQYWJI_xQT9WSdNWHmnwKxmIAKnxlcOgHAYbdBzgC_QIJb_W7PsJKmywafVuBCIuZMbBLGwRgSHjSoAWxw44phoOU/s320/bodies_31.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWR8lmZt41daKArCOCsEYJz2yVbGNshiiCCKoml4IWIjH4Pq6vagDlJsAvt9Na5P2yd4kwQUP2TiA94V5LjwHyYnTeXnpWKvAa1oywkO3DM0E4ICpY6YzmeEZ2QI_8UNE_5FxW1I3dhrY/s1600/bodies_33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWR8lmZt41daKArCOCsEYJz2yVbGNshiiCCKoml4IWIjH4Pq6vagDlJsAvt9Na5P2yd4kwQUP2TiA94V5LjwHyYnTeXnpWKvAa1oywkO3DM0E4ICpY6YzmeEZ2QI_8UNE_5FxW1I3dhrY/s320/bodies_33.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Next the basting threads are removed...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1FiJZQleILU6gTFN2Z3fpk1O27Xi9JjKZ6Q2qnXjDEtEqmiQ7QJF7nFGqNhgKNN-2ChMUe8ovzp04BglePRchEB4HzUI8_9dyzkTPAO6RMpLkoGGO8blt8Tl5SgKNlx48rW2bIiEoRk/s1600/bodies_32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1FiJZQleILU6gTFN2Z3fpk1O27Xi9JjKZ6Q2qnXjDEtEqmiQ7QJF7nFGqNhgKNN-2ChMUe8ovzp04BglePRchEB4HzUI8_9dyzkTPAO6RMpLkoGGO8blt8Tl5SgKNlx48rW2bIiEoRk/s320/bodies_32.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The loose edge is then folded over and pressed.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvvG8ZdwctoYc3PNlXSO6cVTrjDAAzWIRn5GLFY_FsTdbZYqNLUUVnydCBzlI38VUTsxWHAn1gl4Nt6mDKohQYScOCO-8tDyuHa748cGShm8U9jOR5tQeePxqFA-x5CwGry3I4IDVAEQ/s1600/bodies_34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvvG8ZdwctoYc3PNlXSO6cVTrjDAAzWIRn5GLFY_FsTdbZYqNLUUVnydCBzlI38VUTsxWHAn1gl4Nt6mDKohQYScOCO-8tDyuHa748cGShm8U9jOR5tQeePxqFA-x5CwGry3I4IDVAEQ/s320/bodies_34.jpg" width="184" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjST4tf9GpKoeyMYRyjmeioVsqMepZot47tcFRzvcbXM08BKXGZWKjChaDXsIRCYt6LmyUQIbtgEpzHg49AAy9KXmUztu1PQduL6ot7gFV1eJsSj4vJds_j46LgqX_RtIiZETaYa822lz8/s1600/bodies_35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjST4tf9GpKoeyMYRyjmeioVsqMepZot47tcFRzvcbXM08BKXGZWKjChaDXsIRCYt6LmyUQIbtgEpzHg49AAy9KXmUztu1PQduL6ot7gFV1eJsSj4vJds_j46LgqX_RtIiZETaYa822lz8/s320/bodies_35.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then the raw edge is turned under... </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJHnExTlUWMUMtVB22TYCE9Nw7To__TAcy5fYGdF6ui74qdnN0Hf4S5_-NJe2TcQW5jH1pkHpJ6VFkxBWwlcap8csf_xqyVWlv_y3F7WL4tD8cOUcAGD7QNujyEUmKw1Sso8JM6lyaSkU/s1600/bodies_36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJHnExTlUWMUMtVB22TYCE9Nw7To__TAcy5fYGdF6ui74qdnN0Hf4S5_-NJe2TcQW5jH1pkHpJ6VFkxBWwlcap8csf_xqyVWlv_y3F7WL4tD8cOUcAGD7QNujyEUmKw1Sso8JM6lyaSkU/s320/bodies_36.jpg" width="270" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
...and hem sticheddown behind the trim.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8mkivgBHaFqQfGQVNgZQ-Cr7v27_n4vd_qsGwTpRDq3IGO3VzIh1FYB6-r0sQ8VjyQhTOoPujXStsiYawE-qvdJfRNSZE-shXETzJJRKRTxnf4wOcwLAOHYPEYAtQNsU-Ys4XFT7k1lc/s1600/bodies_37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8mkivgBHaFqQfGQVNgZQ-Cr7v27_n4vd_qsGwTpRDq3IGO3VzIh1FYB6-r0sQ8VjyQhTOoPujXStsiYawE-qvdJfRNSZE-shXETzJJRKRTxnf4wOcwLAOHYPEYAtQNsU-Ys4XFT7k1lc/s320/bodies_37.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This will give the bottom a bit more bulk and hopefully act as a mini-corded petticoat.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Next it's time to cut the slit at the front of the petticoat. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I knew I wanted a 5" opening and since I had already decided to fold the top edge down by 2.5" I cut a 7.5" slit down the middle of the front panel.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It's finished with a rolled hem and a thread bar at the bottom.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikxZsgliNKgJMh5b4noBHTqsaZy1-DMOUKtbv9oSLKQ-YZko9Mcs2VAGX435j9yZmOUdmVBfPrbI9kbVj4r01eRe6s7iRPOosr2urGYcSMJHvPou9DWyhqWB9rW1cgBAnxIhizc2bYWMk/s1600/bodies_38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikxZsgliNKgJMh5b4noBHTqsaZy1-DMOUKtbv9oSLKQ-YZko9Mcs2VAGX435j9yZmOUdmVBfPrbI9kbVj4r01eRe6s7iRPOosr2urGYcSMJHvPou9DWyhqWB9rW1cgBAnxIhizc2bYWMk/s320/bodies_38.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiho9taM4M8xYDfMkPtmDsYs-_j2j2Ryw6w4PkckRFc07eaghLLdEqPSQFijmB2nS6qBSgvHkzLhEg2sHBjrd_KIvGXGZbV8VdOkEzSSgOgHEnkZlvRiMWUUm63dxDchowdV6LBHDuMa2Y/s1600/bodies_39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiho9taM4M8xYDfMkPtmDsYs-_j2j2Ryw6w4PkckRFc07eaghLLdEqPSQFijmB2nS6qBSgvHkzLhEg2sHBjrd_KIvGXGZbV8VdOkEzSSgOgHEnkZlvRiMWUUm63dxDchowdV6LBHDuMa2Y/s320/bodies_39.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh454Dk-WSMge4UdgdplSEeeIEhePqPzMJMjjigkQMLoADnxrjO78B1uKNGP-LWxd7Z07nzMaLhqDeIRcX6XwhDNhhHGKFZ1afVXHdsD1V7AKVeu_fZsZ0Jqwm0fw0wXHgjVFHPKqzyQBA/s1600/bodies_40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh454Dk-WSMge4UdgdplSEeeIEhePqPzMJMjjigkQMLoADnxrjO78B1uKNGP-LWxd7Z07nzMaLhqDeIRcX6XwhDNhhHGKFZ1afVXHdsD1V7AKVeu_fZsZ0Jqwm0fw0wXHgjVFHPKqzyQBA/s320/bodies_40.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I'm very pound of my tiny hem!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Of course it's only then that I remember that have to account for the 2" point of the bodice and that opening should actually have been 9" long!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Gah! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
If I hadn't already finished the bottom edge I could have just made the fold at the top less deep...but then the skirt would have been 2" too long! So I bite the bullet, tear out the button hole bar and last 1/2" of hemming and add 2" to the opening. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the end I really needn't have worried. The end result looked so similar to the original that I didn't even bother taking a photo of it...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now it's time to attach the skirt to the bodice!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've documented my method of cartridge pleating to a pointed bodice in my previous kirtle posts, so I was going to gloss over it here...but then I remembered that those earlier instructions are a bit of a mess. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I had incorrectly calculated how to level the skirt in the post for my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2015/05/the-impromptu-greensleeves-kirtle.html">brown kirtle</a> and only explained the fix in the write up for my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/01/beige-brown-kirtle-with-grey-guards.html">beige kirtle</a>, but neither post goes through the full process (correctly) in detail. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So I thought I'd do an amalgam of the two posts here.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
First the bodice is placed on grid paper and a line drawn along the bottom, from the front point to the back seam. A line is also drawn along the front edge from the bodice point up (this doesn't have to be long, but you want it to extend past the side seam).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Make sure you indicate the placement of the side seam. Mine is marked with a dark dot.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRI4fl9m-NOcS746yyklxY-uXjLdTs77SfN46MfUAFA-EDGRzLKhg-jmkncJIJX0OPd4Ut6E471T5BdH5t7bR2W228cmfrQTKibuQqAnJy4k4436bR8g6Eu37kb4-UR-Kjcp9Hzq4pebs/s1600/bodies_42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRI4fl9m-NOcS746yyklxY-uXjLdTs77SfN46MfUAFA-EDGRzLKhg-jmkncJIJX0OPd4Ut6E471T5BdH5t7bR2W228cmfrQTKibuQqAnJy4k4436bR8g6Eu37kb4-UR-Kjcp9Hzq4pebs/s320/bodies_42.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1rcVhEifV2llKyv2ULMZO3dPn5WNWPLDO5KVQCeb2ypVtemSNt1mcnskK5cv4PgKEwBzueJfNp040OJimqDUeqKUqOLnuxOGUv8JAah7sXp3bdOhyop7tYKvqvJjGTrD46QbvVHizCmo/s1600/bodies_43.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1rcVhEifV2llKyv2ULMZO3dPn5WNWPLDO5KVQCeb2ypVtemSNt1mcnskK5cv4PgKEwBzueJfNp040OJimqDUeqKUqOLnuxOGUv8JAah7sXp3bdOhyop7tYKvqvJjGTrD46QbvVHizCmo/s320/bodies_43.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then a line is drawn perpendicular with the front edge to the mark for the side seam. </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRDhyphenhyphentiKvtDEvZaUAOcRWfVbo39WeImf7YFm-JqmWWadnSNAdjEa3uyXCv9TWIIVtg_-Pj2CmXeq9KjH03Jq2JQFKxua41jcjF5FuzF5SJ3lZrNgxbLWe0k8ieusodZl9laPojGt0ixk4/s1600/bodies_44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRDhyphenhyphentiKvtDEvZaUAOcRWfVbo39WeImf7YFm-JqmWWadnSNAdjEa3uyXCv9TWIIVtg_-Pj2CmXeq9KjH03Jq2JQFKxua41jcjF5FuzF5SJ3lZrNgxbLWe0k8ieusodZl9laPojGt0ixk4/s320/bodies_44.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now comes the fun bit: MATH!</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHqDgKJ13wfgmYOOsphfmMH13InqvnR8E8BepnHi1eHEYRiGl6ePrWn6qSl8FjP0TeT0pHeFiG7g8U8iyxCtHXTgXVuNexov1q0vUfmNamB2UZfSy0ut3e_HxO_LcSgIGA7m_zFZb9Ts/s1600/bodies_45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHqDgKJ13wfgmYOOsphfmMH13InqvnR8E8BepnHi1eHEYRiGl6ePrWn6qSl8FjP0TeT0pHeFiG7g8U8iyxCtHXTgXVuNexov1q0vUfmNamB2UZfSy0ut3e_HxO_LcSgIGA7m_zFZb9Ts/s320/bodies_45.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I should have done this in stages, but I'll try to walk you through the final diagram above.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
First you measure the line from the front edge to the side seam, and then from the side seam to the back of the bodice. This gives me a measurement of 7" and 6" respectively and a total combined measurement of 13". This means I will be pleating 60" (half my skirt measurement) to 13" (half my bodice measurement).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now its time to decide how to divide those pleats. I like to divide my bodice into 8 sections, but you can use less if you prefer. So 13" divided by 8 is roughly 1.6", which is marked out along the two straight lines. Then perpendicular lines are drawn down to the bodice edge. The distance between these two points indicate how much the skirt will have to be taken in to accommodate the point of the bodice, but we'll get to that later...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For now let's move on to dividing the skirt in preparation for pleating.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The easiest way to do this would be to have 8 equal sections of 7.5" each (7.5 x 8 = 60). </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
However, I prefer to have the bulk of the volume of the skirt towards the sides and back, so a more incremental pattern is called for. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I opt for 4" in the first section, gradually increasing to 9.5" at the back (you want to keep the back sections fairly similar for weight distribution, otherwise you could have some sagging and pulling which can lead to back pain...which is why 3 of the 4 back sections are the same and the 4th is only 1/2" less).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Finally, it's time to lay the bodice back on the guide and mark the bottom edge with pins indicating the 8 sections.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPtgAvTX6nXj6f9DiltuU9xTBM9VGVVpaRZL1Zqf3uLE368iay93wIe2yoB2y7HmOQZsq5LjQCOG1JOHSatqeF8gjrWQRqf2J0J3viBNv4cEyRlHIiizqjS9CA2jSGwMK1dYLGeY2k_ME/s1600/bodies_46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPtgAvTX6nXj6f9DiltuU9xTBM9VGVVpaRZL1Zqf3uLE368iay93wIe2yoB2y7HmOQZsq5LjQCOG1JOHSatqeF8gjrWQRqf2J0J3viBNv4cEyRlHIiizqjS9CA2jSGwMK1dYLGeY2k_ME/s320/bodies_46.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Then the bodice is flipped and the process is repeated on the opposite side.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSKT4ihL2aVi9nr05GJaeWCsoyfK40639Vx5gOakZCsiAguH6kdwZC9Mo_3ZglEaDjObwTdx9BRwXreC8HCcN_oXb_ZtwDFCvowmEXLnTpnmWHzj0eIaUn85LN_MHFNwLnFGQZs10plXI/s1600/bodies_47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSKT4ihL2aVi9nr05GJaeWCsoyfK40639Vx5gOakZCsiAguH6kdwZC9Mo_3ZglEaDjObwTdx9BRwXreC8HCcN_oXb_ZtwDFCvowmEXLnTpnmWHzj0eIaUn85LN_MHFNwLnFGQZs10plXI/s320/bodies_47.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With the bodice prepped it's time to pleat the skirt!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As I mentioned above, I'm going to be folding the top over by 2.5" to create a finished edge for pleating (this is probably overkill...you really don't need much more than 3/4" or so, but it does add a tiny bit more volume and "oomph" to skirt).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I also had previously finished the raw edge with a zigzag stitch on the machine.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ72WhIIFeO7fXmOgXjpRTeYe_2v5oZf6RcK6MZTFLr0neXnPnHBjzBIYy0JbiAr_cc8P3ogHIffcKTSfkBkSuc7Wmqtr6rooZHpv7YsEiC3a8O6tozT1Xu-8KNHkHHWskK4RtoNqUWho/s1600/bodies_48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ72WhIIFeO7fXmOgXjpRTeYe_2v5oZf6RcK6MZTFLr0neXnPnHBjzBIYy0JbiAr_cc8P3ogHIffcKTSfkBkSuc7Wmqtr6rooZHpv7YsEiC3a8O6tozT1Xu-8KNHkHHWskK4RtoNqUWho/s320/bodies_48.jpg" width="270" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjck0SEEDDR9SoBdZ_U8A-16Er0FZq8lwkxakslitZg9IeErzRVdlj_bJmuZfAAB3WZcSc96bnqP5Ib3X5mZaqc7C968ngeue_Mc_pu2gDMyodj1Hx3Wh8cu87ndA35AlT-Vxq4DFPfv1w/s1600/bodies_49+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjck0SEEDDR9SoBdZ_U8A-16Er0FZq8lwkxakslitZg9IeErzRVdlj_bJmuZfAAB3WZcSc96bnqP5Ib3X5mZaqc7C968ngeue_Mc_pu2gDMyodj1Hx3Wh8cu87ndA35AlT-Vxq4DFPfv1w/s320/bodies_49+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Okay...now it's time to put all our earlier calculations to use.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
First the lowest point of the bodice is marked in disappearing ink (which according to our diagram is 2" down along the front edge) </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxR90ZgJl7fKaUFmGvxMfTJMyrvcwIv7xrSiWwOs3Ti_8eVhbwgblHV6f4Ar-BLb8iSm9MTl_dLVa4F8_jfN-0A3AIRq1ywybKnvRu3eG9vn1y-LQClpQ4Cx2i1B6jKVYhab2C4qfwiWo/s1600/bodies_51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxR90ZgJl7fKaUFmGvxMfTJMyrvcwIv7xrSiWwOs3Ti_8eVhbwgblHV6f4Ar-BLb8iSm9MTl_dLVa4F8_jfN-0A3AIRq1ywybKnvRu3eG9vn1y-LQClpQ4Cx2i1B6jKVYhab2C4qfwiWo/s320/bodies_51.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is then marked with a thread knot (you'll see why later).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk8dFnCcoGuwotoIIGIhhxtAm34cSg97IdF5Rxj064_xH1ivunTxZLjB1EIzYFm5jNoHsH2UjNsklN9VxqbQA_FujDuEGU4cndN1LlJX2rmS9aVq0jANJKp4obV77OhLKScChJWj-DRJA/s1600/bodies_52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk8dFnCcoGuwotoIIGIhhxtAm34cSg97IdF5Rxj064_xH1ivunTxZLjB1EIzYFm5jNoHsH2UjNsklN9VxqbQA_FujDuEGU4cndN1LlJX2rmS9aVq0jANJKp4obV77OhLKScChJWj-DRJA/s320/bodies_52.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
Then we move on the next point.<br />
According to our diagram this is 4" wide...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijmzYDcpF7txEZaOqlY6fwVBMxq1M04nXIUbK8jQrPvjuuob_0GdnOUOpOJVISU4RzToCImDDJC4tcORx_m6xmQS0JmykLP1U0ZBIwhgL4O4YSnJ1R3kDQbRM8fI_dsrIrdaUh1g67zvY/s1600/bodies_53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijmzYDcpF7txEZaOqlY6fwVBMxq1M04nXIUbK8jQrPvjuuob_0GdnOUOpOJVISU4RzToCImDDJC4tcORx_m6xmQS0JmykLP1U0ZBIwhgL4O4YSnJ1R3kDQbRM8fI_dsrIrdaUh1g67zvY/s320/bodies_53.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
...and 1.25" down.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgroAcfbzbNP_1F4upAZN2N1g9_9S2gJVML_oMMJIkwBu2lIfmSj4y2Aia9pW53XdC4G9w9a77C5c1KGzPFkRfOoU5OWA2QjgLRARZnSeHXsk_3R81HmA1Xlm3YQiP1mop5PKSkP5bZkhI/s1600/bodies_54.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgroAcfbzbNP_1F4upAZN2N1g9_9S2gJVML_oMMJIkwBu2lIfmSj4y2Aia9pW53XdC4G9w9a77C5c1KGzPFkRfOoU5OWA2QjgLRARZnSeHXsk_3R81HmA1Xlm3YQiP1mop5PKSkP5bZkhI/s320/bodies_54.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is also marked in pen and then knotted with thread.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipK934ncDslQ-kqh7LKy-sTgqhSvszLZJAb6ETT7IhmkQiLaIDwpiESTMefgeHyEF2mfiC9x1VsZEFmaX-KKhO7hRKOyYZLUPKRpAr5W56CzVOfnd2xs8tdmMbP0WxF8nqzfCkmJ8vGus/s1600/bodies_55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipK934ncDslQ-kqh7LKy-sTgqhSvszLZJAb6ETT7IhmkQiLaIDwpiESTMefgeHyEF2mfiC9x1VsZEFmaX-KKhO7hRKOyYZLUPKRpAr5W56CzVOfnd2xs8tdmMbP0WxF8nqzfCkmJ8vGus/s320/bodies_55.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KZTrl_XnTT25Kl4zeJgBM3PiGddwb_iGHCL1x9cVPcJneQRwedl9D2Mt7p16IwiBMSKQElue51WrE3lHtUUfldns4HyaxRaNh-Q4OUgJEno1BYWdm04mS3IRWS0a0Q6hE7fK1qBUAzs/s1600/bodies_56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KZTrl_XnTT25Kl4zeJgBM3PiGddwb_iGHCL1x9cVPcJneQRwedl9D2Mt7p16IwiBMSKQElue51WrE3lHtUUfldns4HyaxRaNh-Q4OUgJEno1BYWdm04mS3IRWS0a0Q6hE7fK1qBUAzs/s320/bodies_56.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
This is repeated for the next section (5" over and 5/8" down)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgO8jr7F-ATr-17ra-IHGTSvCdopHRpY938zb0cZFNQrO6Wt4yoqAEnQXfRaZyxCSPWPM417gPHHJfGD3eFe1MgEX4F98gq6Qvb7FTXbckwLpyPChy6P0vCBWbibQq_XMDom9mVFTZXY/s1600/bodies_57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgO8jr7F-ATr-17ra-IHGTSvCdopHRpY938zb0cZFNQrO6Wt4yoqAEnQXfRaZyxCSPWPM417gPHHJfGD3eFe1MgEX4F98gq6Qvb7FTXbckwLpyPChy6P0vCBWbibQq_XMDom9mVFTZXY/s320/bodies_57.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXslSIRMOxUKhyphenhyphen5MvXSBOELX6yfWoVJDcJZ1NhSHvmeTLJnv8TWyUimAp6yNjnurn-z8s7EbRJXMa6Hwy0zIscWO_izUYRDNNYLuedGgTBcBJnlSMPJ2EGAC6d6tFAENuEina99UKtdk0/s1600/bodies_59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXslSIRMOxUKhyphenhyphen5MvXSBOELX6yfWoVJDcJZ1NhSHvmeTLJnv8TWyUimAp6yNjnurn-z8s7EbRJXMa6Hwy0zIscWO_izUYRDNNYLuedGgTBcBJnlSMPJ2EGAC6d6tFAENuEina99UKtdk0/s320/bodies_59.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
And so on until all the sections are marked with knots (continuing along the top edge for all 8 sections).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgK5YXVyyxje5mc1THSyyhS742FvodeveBwXGTMwoNd5P8ZnMHM_TB7zzVejRLVNxn8n4lflWtTsEk0v8Nvrp4hZfRkAVxwrRVmdzpBv5E8-Q02yTCCm8-H98QaRgnW0uGCCo35f3mkuw/s1600/bodies_62.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgK5YXVyyxje5mc1THSyyhS742FvodeveBwXGTMwoNd5P8ZnMHM_TB7zzVejRLVNxn8n4lflWtTsEk0v8Nvrp4hZfRkAVxwrRVmdzpBv5E8-Q02yTCCm8-H98QaRgnW0uGCCo35f3mkuw/s320/bodies_62.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is then repeated on the opposite side (and you can see the curve of the bodice take shape)</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj31QErGUJ-sDVxYFeIj55Q_bPr2ooJjE9pcYeQuKEHQMhpUS5uUAB1PYWeK_n7-TfACsXIYaP7qBpeZjbhjoReBVEKOVc2-YSCM4a0PzN1SWij9uPbVl9LI-2PD9zfOXahU7WmKXpKXB0/s1600/bodies_63.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj31QErGUJ-sDVxYFeIj55Q_bPr2ooJjE9pcYeQuKEHQMhpUS5uUAB1PYWeK_n7-TfACsXIYaP7qBpeZjbhjoReBVEKOVc2-YSCM4a0PzN1SWij9uPbVl9LI-2PD9zfOXahU7WmKXpKXB0/s320/bodies_63.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now it's time to create the angle of the skirt. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The top edge is folded down using the thread knots as a guide and pressed. All the threads should now be along the top folded edge of the skirt.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf97NXPY9t1neVKMHDXa4VyqEFjni9NgumxrvSidP7vw-2P8yg9jX3V8LeNL62_5VBFjP9vfSlIETgmAUIP7fwCzRrC65WV2_6RsfmlP9-4K1VoN7KlDiyyJug9Xry1WAf7xxo5ppdOt8/s1600/bodies_64.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf97NXPY9t1neVKMHDXa4VyqEFjni9NgumxrvSidP7vw-2P8yg9jX3V8LeNL62_5VBFjP9vfSlIETgmAUIP7fwCzRrC65WV2_6RsfmlP9-4K1VoN7KlDiyyJug9Xry1WAf7xxo5ppdOt8/s320/bodies_64.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The skirt is now ready to be pleated.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I opt for 1/4" cartridge pleats through the front and 3/8" pleats in the back. </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin1VkAxzcvSDsg6VmY_IPedtMQr8W3eqNslh1nB4cB_z7gfKyFY3jX8o8DYsqtUG7py72_UIqk4lqAvR4HIWjdxsWIjB8GKA_sxWbeR0dXrYUzu8DMkgalxVflDu4VSaB_iL0BcaooOOg/s1600/bodies_65.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin1VkAxzcvSDsg6VmY_IPedtMQr8W3eqNslh1nB4cB_z7gfKyFY3jX8o8DYsqtUG7py72_UIqk4lqAvR4HIWjdxsWIjB8GKA_sxWbeR0dXrYUzu8DMkgalxVflDu4VSaB_iL0BcaooOOg/s320/bodies_65.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVpUvi5eFjJvb8ogs9aJpv5tCZdP_DBb8C_cNzHkZ1k4znz9XoD8ZV7wGWd8ceL8e1uJFruEasBu6l5MoH8rR33I36jsTGvAtVxrUQGaa4xDuUnqdnXM7IjY7x8_-CNJjKGBWiLuNOBrY/s1600/bodies_66.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVpUvi5eFjJvb8ogs9aJpv5tCZdP_DBb8C_cNzHkZ1k4znz9XoD8ZV7wGWd8ceL8e1uJFruEasBu6l5MoH8rR33I36jsTGvAtVxrUQGaa4xDuUnqdnXM7IjY7x8_-CNJjKGBWiLuNOBrY/s320/bodies_66.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
And that's it! Pleating done.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9pZqb7I3gzJk0JfcbcQAi2g4SoRWSaU3qXbTnPxG-2joHwee59NdwvUdo3z7nnrgrHXllVwlTBRRH-WvrOGeG8NCXi1Iccz7_uZm00zmSnIRYAY-JPeOkZWI4DCiuI6tnHgUgkXNZgdM/s1600/bodies_67.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9pZqb7I3gzJk0JfcbcQAi2g4SoRWSaU3qXbTnPxG-2joHwee59NdwvUdo3z7nnrgrHXllVwlTBRRH-WvrOGeG8NCXi1Iccz7_uZm00zmSnIRYAY-JPeOkZWI4DCiuI6tnHgUgkXNZgdM/s320/bodies_67.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The petticoat is now ready to be attached to the bodice.<br />
Since the bodice has already been devided into sections all you have to do is match the thread knots to the pins (see, I told you they'd come in handy!)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqx_wXSZ3fO5nWUSzPaPOzF9IrKwxjo1enY4KKGTPBfKUwyUiXqldsPeNbkeEv_uf_vPMgWQgT3GM2QXHLB-o_YwtE8zC3Ma7HWi6j1uYJ-gH3qGKttW3Wco8bz_ZsRwQ19NdgTAA4svI/s1600/bodies_68.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqx_wXSZ3fO5nWUSzPaPOzF9IrKwxjo1enY4KKGTPBfKUwyUiXqldsPeNbkeEv_uf_vPMgWQgT3GM2QXHLB-o_YwtE8zC3Ma7HWi6j1uYJ-gH3qGKttW3Wco8bz_ZsRwQ19NdgTAA4svI/s320/bodies_68.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then I divided each section in half, marked that point with a pin and pinned the middle pleat to it...and then kept on devidining until the whole skirt was pleated.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2v44yIjV7FcKvpnVH6WM8OivN4vR5r1RWhVLTQrc18XeKrZFOYtZZcTLUFOhTv5MVL3xIr6iKN_VzE8GQ_3fcKlqgYH8L1ihgZYKAftTmdFdz1bov5g8TbYqlMfuZeB54XMM3fUwbDnc/s1600/bodies_69.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2v44yIjV7FcKvpnVH6WM8OivN4vR5r1RWhVLTQrc18XeKrZFOYtZZcTLUFOhTv5MVL3xIr6iKN_VzE8GQ_3fcKlqgYH8L1ihgZYKAftTmdFdz1bov5g8TbYqlMfuZeB54XMM3fUwbDnc/s320/bodies_69.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjebMZhNHUR47lG6qFw8lc9USmsKAdj57s5YjZQVIsD1cPuOt7tVdavSTr0G0GQRV4KlQkvrt143wbIT2YeXNG3bcCduZ2-sEdivfL2tEWI58BI2Y8Xmmk8Qlq-bXXj_DH0a5JRSZexeKA/s1600/bodies_71.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjebMZhNHUR47lG6qFw8lc9USmsKAdj57s5YjZQVIsD1cPuOt7tVdavSTr0G0GQRV4KlQkvrt143wbIT2YeXNG3bcCduZ2-sEdivfL2tEWI58BI2Y8Xmmk8Qlq-bXXj_DH0a5JRSZexeKA/s320/bodies_71.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then the skirt is stitched to the bodice (being careful to catch as much foundation fabric and as little outer fabric as possible in each stitch).</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinfcXYMnxFpkb4kUG7wzmjGgnCBYqqqcqcuOHNiLqtw1rz7n9Do6XdQ3DV2jBeaFAbLDtxYIqKYH5OOOG9Wxjfi5eWomnTheognbCVlrtzA4Dq0-cScFZdWtwUpkbgc-qbsD3obd7jVg8/s1600/bodies_72.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinfcXYMnxFpkb4kUG7wzmjGgnCBYqqqcqcuOHNiLqtw1rz7n9Do6XdQ3DV2jBeaFAbLDtxYIqKYH5OOOG9Wxjfi5eWomnTheognbCVlrtzA4Dq0-cScFZdWtwUpkbgc-qbsD3obd7jVg8/s320/bodies_72.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
HOWEVER...!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here is where I made another mistake. Working this way (with the pleats towards you, as shown above) forces the pleats towards the bottom/underside edge of the bodice. But you actually want them slightly more on the side so that the skirt springs outwards. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Doing it this way caused the edge of the bodice to curve under and bubble, so the whole thing had to be taken out and re-stitched working from the other side (I know these two photos look basically identical...but trust me, it did make a difference). </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVomm9aVzlO2YFaq0XizIjmQpBIKVEQiz3ZZmbGUrKYXXsqyWmHgY2rgogZ0wkHOCEaaTSL7JGjqZugvhm7fw_v0Cpt1JasT9eAX7uaC7UQIbm2oi9jGLA-dKaoDyDI5jFvuDQeabzQY/s1600/bodies_75.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVomm9aVzlO2YFaq0XizIjmQpBIKVEQiz3ZZmbGUrKYXXsqyWmHgY2rgogZ0wkHOCEaaTSL7JGjqZugvhm7fw_v0Cpt1JasT9eAX7uaC7UQIbm2oi9jGLA-dKaoDyDI5jFvuDQeabzQY/s320/bodies_75.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Yay! Much better!</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASEdTqPVz3NXup6F0MtrtOcJ4NS5ER9kYzBOp8vBYMBrG5qOWz8CSuU4f3UI2Qy8KSIl_ZRwZUKmgWBXO_DKmTFmR82T3lPvZ_67CSNJLQ0uO8vxNJbPrd9xDf3jKGjrOOQUB8AfZpkE/s1600/bodies_76.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASEdTqPVz3NXup6F0MtrtOcJ4NS5ER9kYzBOp8vBYMBrG5qOWz8CSuU4f3UI2Qy8KSIl_ZRwZUKmgWBXO_DKmTFmR82T3lPvZ_67CSNJLQ0uO8vxNJbPrd9xDf3jKGjrOOQUB8AfZpkE/s320/bodies_76.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And that's it! Skirt pleated and attached.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrBl8NyI_B7QRO98FNd86AY7zMZ0DaAxkSupEPLT0esL7miOB6enS3OrMGSc0ePJZ9yk_zP468O0Oy-4BInj61OUO7rPsod1CRxNqNJqdm6VsBSd_PstRLdXEbCRh9BsfeeevjwCrDpDw/s1600/bodies_77.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrBl8NyI_B7QRO98FNd86AY7zMZ0DaAxkSupEPLT0esL7miOB6enS3OrMGSc0ePJZ9yk_zP468O0Oy-4BInj61OUO7rPsod1CRxNqNJqdm6VsBSd_PstRLdXEbCRh9BsfeeevjwCrDpDw/s320/bodies_77.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And the petticoat bodies are done!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
***</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJG5xYJwF_9Ftw1V0XKLF7hfeDqp3g-Bw574uITdLd54XCVJDWstEp68BS1e6eX3pFXi1Psn13HNXlEUMvy2WU9LqC7QxCexHGe4qgL6cKesSDelukW8EiOLsKMtZyRKzSRzJLZvZtseM/s1600/Petticoat+Bodies_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJG5xYJwF_9Ftw1V0XKLF7hfeDqp3g-Bw574uITdLd54XCVJDWstEp68BS1e6eX3pFXi1Psn13HNXlEUMvy2WU9LqC7QxCexHGe4qgL6cKesSDelukW8EiOLsKMtZyRKzSRzJLZvZtseM/s400/Petticoat+Bodies_01.jpg" width="233" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBdBegv8CrZ3mEQtDdGoUh-8Puc6SV-ZR2IWc3Wl35eexH3oGFlQkmsH0n-j4m3OCxvMsZ4M737_Hd-QvD3W5D6PfkdQaRAaREqvS1CgGYgr-liR6R0CmD0pJk0Yytak9LLFKSTzBktWM/s1600/Petticoat+Bodies_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBdBegv8CrZ3mEQtDdGoUh-8Puc6SV-ZR2IWc3Wl35eexH3oGFlQkmsH0n-j4m3OCxvMsZ4M737_Hd-QvD3W5D6PfkdQaRAaREqvS1CgGYgr-liR6R0CmD0pJk0Yytak9LLFKSTzBktWM/s400/Petticoat+Bodies_04.jpg" width="241" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZQeycCe5VfTxEn6XStlyX_J437kpzYSFTlL2vdsyim-0Qx7HPKQ-dykO4wU5RiAHCGucymT2MyDYcWXh_q80LL6cEHuLPRlqKoJ6H66Nd1BAdzyU0eZrdXL3ur5AUIVNLxCgUUdD7sY/s1600/Petticoat+Bodies_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZQeycCe5VfTxEn6XStlyX_J437kpzYSFTlL2vdsyim-0Qx7HPKQ-dykO4wU5RiAHCGucymT2MyDYcWXh_q80LL6cEHuLPRlqKoJ6H66Nd1BAdzyU0eZrdXL3ur5AUIVNLxCgUUdD7sY/s400/Petticoat+Bodies_05.jpg" width="278" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Overall I'm pretty pleased with how the whole thing turned out. <br />
The shoulder straps are much more comfortable and I'm really happy to finally have a lightweight wool petticoat with a more historically accurate circumference (my linen ones where both too heavy and too wide).<br />
I'm even surprised with how supportive the final result is and how much I liked the lines of the finished garment. Yes, boning gives you a smoother silhouette, but I don't mind the more natural curves (and even the wrinkles!).<br />
It's also probably the neatest and most finished garment I've done so far, which is a definite plus.<br />
However, the fit still isn't perfect. For one thing the bodice is still too long, especially in the back...though I think that was a result of my taking in the front pieces, since that rotated the whole thing back slightly. And again, I really should make a petticoat that's knife pleated rather than cartridge pleated (which I think is more appropriate for Italian styles, rather than the English and Dutch styles I'm going for).<br />
So there are still plenty of things to keep in mind for next time!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
***</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Pattern: </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-<a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/">The Tudor Tailor</a> (book and/or ready-made pattern)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Fabric:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Red and Tan Worsted Wool Flannel from <a href="http://www.bblackandsons.com/">B.Black & Sons</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Beige "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Hemp/Linen canvas (11oz) and Hemp/Cotton muslin (7.5oz) from <a href="http://www.hemptraders.com/">Hemp Traders</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Muslin for mockup (also from Hemp Traders, but any muslin should do)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Thread & Lacing:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Red silk thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Tan silk thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Linen tape (1/4" for lacing) from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Notions and Trim:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Black wool herringbone tape (1") from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Other Supplies:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Swedish pattern paper from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sewable-Swedish-Tracing-Paper-Inches/dp/B000PNEWVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383452754&sr=8-1&keywords=swiss+pattern+paper">Amazon</a>. (This stuff is great! You can iron it!)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Pattern weights</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Purple vanishing fabric marker</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Tapered tailor's awl</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Eyelet tape (for mockup)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Small bulldog clips</div>
Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-25046959811224885422016-12-19T17:44:00.000-08:002017-12-31T11:47:02.402-08:00Brown Fitted Gown (v2.0) "Now with Huik!"<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
Here is what I hope to be the final construction/dress diary entry for my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2016/07/brown-fitted-gown.html">brown fitted gown</a> now that all the loose ends have been (literally) tied up...Only this time it's been re-accessorised in the style of a Lucas de Heere print!<br />
This is the first time I've actually tried to reproduce a documented period image and while it wasn't totally successful the process was a lot of fun and definitely one I'd like to repeat.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-StpaVFw1oSVVfrWMmGc5Qy1wBJB3GKxLl0-Kg6RQfGvqYn8vgoX4qVeDvwwcX1lAuAfYjL6mmYiC1SAcEf22GERhWc0glb0lZuEG6OkPRWx_HekHuvusDERxzIe26VL32YN4ErUOt70/s1600/huik-compare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-StpaVFw1oSVVfrWMmGc5Qy1wBJB3GKxLl0-Kg6RQfGvqYn8vgoX4qVeDvwwcX1lAuAfYjL6mmYiC1SAcEf22GERhWc0glb0lZuEG6OkPRWx_HekHuvusDERxzIe26VL32YN4ErUOt70/s400/huik-compare.jpg" width="386" /></a></div>
<br />
I've actually had this image in the back of my mind since before I started work on brown gown, but only just barely...<br />
The original design had been locked for a while but at some point last year I realized that (while not exactly the same in style and cut) the gown could easily do double duty for the de Heere outfit by swapping out some key accessories.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoRU05KW31fyk9i9bzzs5ZbUl_GE7fG8dseUVgyXc6hRbi7uI5fquCTMrCpBhj2TDKa6YbvcGs3wAImBr-FIEXmnKEkySPtG0Bc80nCHIYIlj14u_YIbHMLXASxbBOFSbJnaQwLtTyGfs/s1600/design-huik3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoRU05KW31fyk9i9bzzs5ZbUl_GE7fG8dseUVgyXc6hRbi7uI5fquCTMrCpBhj2TDKa6YbvcGs3wAImBr-FIEXmnKEkySPtG0Bc80nCHIYIlj14u_YIbHMLXASxbBOFSbJnaQwLtTyGfs/s400/design-huik3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
So with the Nottingham Faire looming that's exactly what I decided to do!<br />
This would also give me an opportunity (read: deadline) to finish up some interior edges and other bits and bobs that I hadn't gotten around to in time for the SoCal faire last spring. It also dove-tailed nicely with my plans to make a new support garment in the form of petticoat bodies. More on that later... (or not, as the case may be).<br />
<br />
But first off, the front edges...<br />
<br />
As you may remember, while the bottom edge of the skirt was bound with self-fabric bias tape the front edges were just folded back and basted down behind the trim.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisac5S7i0X719ymVLYWuMr1t7qbG1sybK69mhPlTD52otDPDa3VTjYZbc6dka4AIEqubtWubo6IOYGhSnMTSVgwmEzs59aqOiauY5ABccvk2PjiUGSzUXDedCSIBq2z6JwRyu5L0v8PMo/s1600/Brown_36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisac5S7i0X719ymVLYWuMr1t7qbG1sybK69mhPlTD52otDPDa3VTjYZbc6dka4AIEqubtWubo6IOYGhSnMTSVgwmEzs59aqOiauY5ABccvk2PjiUGSzUXDedCSIBq2z6JwRyu5L0v8PMo/s320/Brown_36.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
So the first thing to do was to cover those raw edges.<br />
I used a strip of black linen roughly 3" wide (the same fabric I used to line the bodice) which runs the length of the front of the skirt. The edges are folded under and sewn into place, catching only inner fold of the fabric at the front and behind the last line of trim at the back (to keep it from showing on the outside).<br />
This also has the added befit of adding a bit more weight to the front edges which hopefully will help them lay more smoothly.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc9V_1rMn2fdUZuHyr-LMOuPzYqSMuemdP18HEtG3aJflx5TKPs-2t9OgHpdxJ4_LYzIIk6vLL_WgUCctoPY3fx6BPOAGguENZLEJK4xx3uWphvSJSxyKk6jhmyWQixVp7NRwWf2O4TB4/s1600/gownfix_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc9V_1rMn2fdUZuHyr-LMOuPzYqSMuemdP18HEtG3aJflx5TKPs-2t9OgHpdxJ4_LYzIIk6vLL_WgUCctoPY3fx6BPOAGguENZLEJK4xx3uWphvSJSxyKk6jhmyWQixVp7NRwWf2O4TB4/s320/gownfix_01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzCcUxKpxIiLxBH8pG4qhdnQ_UDFVNnfii6GILtpokBO1YhVyD2nLdlGnlcgRqkynL6hxprH5Au8uDaqdkpawvGQC23Elpg2ovBbU32B3tViN2EvKxIDyZU47ddbGnqcyVxuW7hb6I6jo/s1600/gownfix_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzCcUxKpxIiLxBH8pG4qhdnQ_UDFVNnfii6GILtpokBO1YhVyD2nLdlGnlcgRqkynL6hxprH5Au8uDaqdkpawvGQC23Elpg2ovBbU32B3tViN2EvKxIDyZU47ddbGnqcyVxuW7hb6I6jo/s320/gownfix_02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjZa4XjfrhLp55tokFAMYmn7fP-aS4H5NiD0rpsy9rhta9eq1h4V-7-Q7FOZJwZA6eGaWgou7A9kdSpWQuYf9TGumDEJJYS06pVKA434pc83VSYLGkcdJZE-pd1dx0yxcKL9c71vYTOE/s1600/gownfix_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjZa4XjfrhLp55tokFAMYmn7fP-aS4H5NiD0rpsy9rhta9eq1h4V-7-Q7FOZJwZA6eGaWgou7A9kdSpWQuYf9TGumDEJJYS06pVKA434pc83VSYLGkcdJZE-pd1dx0yxcKL9c71vYTOE/s320/gownfix_04.jpg" width="219" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9o62Cgxn8gOxoQhTrEsEzghyXe3rRjjewqMb3NKoK6YCNtEAHxTaa7qXQv3zYjZf0T9G9KBx12Tz8jGdiUZIK89jB-IO0Ll8OBEiwmGpxkOfkREhfKcWtQEujrepimv3UOtk2iMuG-Y/s1600/gownfix_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9o62Cgxn8gOxoQhTrEsEzghyXe3rRjjewqMb3NKoK6YCNtEAHxTaa7qXQv3zYjZf0T9G9KBx12Tz8jGdiUZIK89jB-IO0Ll8OBEiwmGpxkOfkREhfKcWtQEujrepimv3UOtk2iMuG-Y/s320/gownfix_03.jpg" width="201" /></a></div>
<br />
So that's it! Skirt done.<br />
<br />
Next, the sleeves!<br />
To begin with I definitely had to finish off the raw, interior edges of the armscye. But before I did that I also decided to baste in the support structure I made earlier, just to see how it would look.<br />
<br />
So here is boned structure...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZfT5a93Xl2uwLYZQO-FOw3SYi4V4wpufTn0zmXnkk2TLTKwzWInWBVNWUKx3YcHoyKh0OFbQYOB5NegZmvL96PsBtcYwMQNZLb4_K-lm9QeE6IkbOQfCnXkcJxiZnbdVfycee88i8-Co/s1600/Brown_68.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZfT5a93Xl2uwLYZQO-FOw3SYi4V4wpufTn0zmXnkk2TLTKwzWInWBVNWUKx3YcHoyKh0OFbQYOB5NegZmvL96PsBtcYwMQNZLb4_K-lm9QeE6IkbOQfCnXkcJxiZnbdVfycee88i8-Co/s320/Brown_68.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
...and here is the result!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrF8rZ0_3ZchRo6U09fPlEzCOT7jne9F_h-M3icBBYIbB8zdHHsVAGP5cubX8wNJn-Lc2P2GinFJ4sCE09gydbNfV5I_rIlu5WWcMpDyqlOzFMWYSKAXfj_Ai_xoVfPZVsjWCQotDX6iE/s1600/experiment+copy1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrF8rZ0_3ZchRo6U09fPlEzCOT7jne9F_h-M3icBBYIbB8zdHHsVAGP5cubX8wNJn-Lc2P2GinFJ4sCE09gydbNfV5I_rIlu5WWcMpDyqlOzFMWYSKAXfj_Ai_xoVfPZVsjWCQotDX6iE/s400/experiment+copy1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span id="goog_934295448"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Definitely an improvement! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And as an added benefit it made slipping the gown on and off much easier, since the sleeves were now effectively held open and my arms didn't get all tangled up in the sleeve head. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Unfortunately, since this was done as an experiment I didn't really document putting the support in, so I'll try to show the result as clearly as possible in the following photos.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Next it's time to bind the armscye. However, the problem with this approach is that it adds bulk, and since I had just added an extra layer when I put the supports in it was already starting to get a bit tight under the arm.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So the only thing for it was to trim back some layers. The obvious choice in this case was the hemp/cotton interlining (since that was by far the thickest layer), so that was snipped away as close to the seam as possible.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifid-kTC0zA1gXeEcKQhUJMbxbvij9kn-Bsgtp_HPtKRsJS783RGQrexQBA8jOwFg0E-dRLjr7e8jJIslm-dz8tsNbU-ibZCjou8iH-Ejvxwt3kxY70Mp8RLCb28rmBo5RPKR-bp_nWG0/s1600/gownfix_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifid-kTC0zA1gXeEcKQhUJMbxbvij9kn-Bsgtp_HPtKRsJS783RGQrexQBA8jOwFg0E-dRLjr7e8jJIslm-dz8tsNbU-ibZCjou8iH-Ejvxwt3kxY70Mp8RLCb28rmBo5RPKR-bp_nWG0/s320/gownfix_05.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I also decided to trim down the lining for good measure.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Next it's time to bind the edges. First I cut two strips of linen bias tape (each 1.5" wide) from the same linen as the lining and stitched it down on the inside of the sleeve using a running stitch with a backstitch added every 3-4 stitches for strength.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioqwZ3NephukUuwV5ANx7OTEIcrUoXm7m90jmXq45GEMoPgv3uqK_Hq0xGeVfZeB1_OMkVpvXMjtoaVQa7gtO9WsdXrKDTP5GcOaH29xyhUuu68Jnu2JV86EwLAfYUpLsHJ8ci5ETf5Hg/s1600/gownfix_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioqwZ3NephukUuwV5ANx7OTEIcrUoXm7m90jmXq45GEMoPgv3uqK_Hq0xGeVfZeB1_OMkVpvXMjtoaVQa7gtO9WsdXrKDTP5GcOaH29xyhUuu68Jnu2JV86EwLAfYUpLsHJ8ci5ETf5Hg/s320/gownfix_06.jpg" width="228" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAjnGwG4Bhvq30REdP8WNjcFLqBwPEWoOfd4JX3s8De835FRVIG95u-tEjG_IsAv40vU2GpgzPGarAOfP2IwjUqNgsbumIa9Hgjra3Phzeev9IkWzsTSsY6uWMj9Rhuus7nEJGKN2RCk/s1600/gownfix_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAjnGwG4Bhvq30REdP8WNjcFLqBwPEWoOfd4JX3s8De835FRVIG95u-tEjG_IsAv40vU2GpgzPGarAOfP2IwjUqNgsbumIa9Hgjra3Phzeev9IkWzsTSsY6uWMj9Rhuus7nEJGKN2RCk/s320/gownfix_07.jpg" width="269" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Then the fabric is turned over and stitched to the body side using a fell/hem stitch.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdZBDWS53dxF1biHN4VCa_3h06GUaIEsKAT7imBgslHFPlkEHggIu_JIbzhowjjuDNrYBCcHkNza9Ec4TX35339LOBq34sTj0xrCobaQhscXCC1ChoqeQXBNu5uym6BQCXeX4Ae_Xm0S0/s1600/gownfix_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdZBDWS53dxF1biHN4VCa_3h06GUaIEsKAT7imBgslHFPlkEHggIu_JIbzhowjjuDNrYBCcHkNza9Ec4TX35339LOBq34sTj0xrCobaQhscXCC1ChoqeQXBNu5uym6BQCXeX4Ae_Xm0S0/s320/gownfix_08.jpg" width="214" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Also, I'm careful to offset the side seam and the tape seam...again, to reduce bulk under the arm.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiY-c4lRjobFFMi1O1HDNARJrAkrNLjC8xm3C2-wGzBBq8ovVxq_hgLZj08wZVEns0xl38j5rYYyysgrQwt_ooYWo4wzaqEwidnUVgPS4U5ZLONBnrafewxQJK4SuL8gU59s5iaKMyh80/s1600/gownfix_09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiY-c4lRjobFFMi1O1HDNARJrAkrNLjC8xm3C2-wGzBBq8ovVxq_hgLZj08wZVEns0xl38j5rYYyysgrQwt_ooYWo4wzaqEwidnUVgPS4U5ZLONBnrafewxQJK4SuL8gU59s5iaKMyh80/s320/gownfix_09.jpg" width="205" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Ta-Da! A nice, neat, arsmcye!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1I-erRcOIdHXcaxNeqjgLpMDN-SmBXq1yG_mpvz4AJJRhpS5nPYkZfjlO_UMHaBq1lJ1BFIqEjCF-UdqEa89tKX99os4ghwfvAKSGaTl_wq-Cv1E5NIvgkCCEk4i0dqEwbRH2thyphenhyphen-3xc/s1600/gownfix_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1I-erRcOIdHXcaxNeqjgLpMDN-SmBXq1yG_mpvz4AJJRhpS5nPYkZfjlO_UMHaBq1lJ1BFIqEjCF-UdqEa89tKX99os4ghwfvAKSGaTl_wq-Cv1E5NIvgkCCEk4i0dqEwbRH2thyphenhyphen-3xc/s320/gownfix_10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now I'll pull the sleeve inside-out to see if you can get a feel for how the support structure fits into all of this nonsense...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigENb_6yLY-yn7BpWKaRzyQWNRYwpduuqWJE1ja-Kl5FInKPmIIE5OIOXpiYHAQnKufHd6sVNma588f9ckH0bxvmBeUMKbmlIaPg9da6mYbsQL6ow-291kwDxHRzopHB8xUe3R3WcGcyA/s1600/gownfix_11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigENb_6yLY-yn7BpWKaRzyQWNRYwpduuqWJE1ja-Kl5FInKPmIIE5OIOXpiYHAQnKufHd6sVNma588f9ckH0bxvmBeUMKbmlIaPg9da6mYbsQL6ow-291kwDxHRzopHB8xUe3R3WcGcyA/s320/gownfix_11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ1Lbdn0BAgInxy8ZfNI7YSISuOOkLZc9W_RzIXbk9BXuRWyW6iQ3qNf1iYaPp77w2-JICUiYxGvZMP5F0GiWDQsYvITytxowCOi5eyE7faQJVpt57hhZnotkzEOmMMczBfki2gRHUCX4/s1600/gownfix_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ1Lbdn0BAgInxy8ZfNI7YSISuOOkLZc9W_RzIXbk9BXuRWyW6iQ3qNf1iYaPp77w2-JICUiYxGvZMP5F0GiWDQsYvITytxowCOi5eyE7faQJVpt57hhZnotkzEOmMMczBfki2gRHUCX4/s320/gownfix_13.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcXoY9R30YERbxVbwnCucIe7QaabHb9OqeiZgKXNTcvRjo97OMj6BrCkmWXNHmvvCeqmFIN5PRlOuIIPy4eNBKzZsF4z8QUXsUXOBE_wRp0Dzrp9NRCj15B6IOvBqvoOLqgVF3pNi3-ys/s1600/gownfix_12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcXoY9R30YERbxVbwnCucIe7QaabHb9OqeiZgKXNTcvRjo97OMj6BrCkmWXNHmvvCeqmFIN5PRlOuIIPy4eNBKzZsF4z8QUXsUXOBE_wRp0Dzrp9NRCj15B6IOvBqvoOLqgVF3pNi3-ys/s320/gownfix_12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And as you may have noticed I also doubled the number of hooks and eyes along the font, as well as adding an extra hook just below the bodice point.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1WKv5xZE5JE5TtzVvIDrMhMZZwQNS1VHv8JooGDTTYy9bY_BLfNhMBUEveH_uao8r7t8HQjnD9yCwzFB2n_zEiGc_r9KsZ1mcxsau-FRaHIQgKo-GP_1Z8KenTqnXQi5UD5iv37cjc4A/s1600/gownfix_14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1WKv5xZE5JE5TtzVvIDrMhMZZwQNS1VHv8JooGDTTYy9bY_BLfNhMBUEveH_uao8r7t8HQjnD9yCwzFB2n_zEiGc_r9KsZ1mcxsau-FRaHIQgKo-GP_1Z8KenTqnXQi5UD5iv37cjc4A/s320/gownfix_14.jpg" width="196" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I was hoping to reduce some slight gapping in the front (which it does to some extent) but I think some key hooks are just offset enough that the only real way to fix it is to take them all out and start from scratch (or use hook and eye tape...we'll see how lazy I'm feeling if/when the time comes).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
But that's it! The gown is now officially complete!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now it's time to start on the accessories for the de Heere outfit...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In addition to the gown I basically only need four things: A red petticoat or kirtle (with black guards), cream sleeves, a black apron, and a black Huik.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Let's start with the red kirtle...or in this case, petticoat bodies. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now, it's my understanding that petticoat bodies are a very basic foundation layer and differ from a kirtle insofar that they would not be worn alone (whereas a kirtle may be worn with sleeves...though I could be wrong on this point. The terms may be interchangeable at different times in the period). </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Typically the bodice would be canvas, buckram, or heavy linen which provides the support for subsequent layers. The petticoat is wool, usually red.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Having said that, my bodice will also be made of wool. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It probably shouldn't be, but I needed to tweak my kirtle pattern and wanted to see how the bodice behaved in wool since that is what I will be using later. A feeble excuse I know...surely the gods of Historical Accuracy will smite me at some point in the future. Franky, it's a wonder they haven't already. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
BUT...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
This time the bodice will not have any boning. Instead the interlining will be made up of several layers of linen and canvas pad stitched together. So at least that is a step in the right direction.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So with that I decide on a bodice in tan wool, and a skirt in red (guarded in black, in the same manner as the de Heere print). </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXtvNbIhhOlpR8zRlU5JHXx7jZRjjXfjxevxPGL1nNDCMp8mHrdtEZQz2dLFZojH6_Ey6YeaGmNW45x9wUb-Dbzw8xKH8VAZRBWa6moNimn-Uxg9KHzC5RNwL0FUctqg-vl0EMibPx5Y/s1600/design-petticoat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXtvNbIhhOlpR8zRlU5JHXx7jZRjjXfjxevxPGL1nNDCMp8mHrdtEZQz2dLFZojH6_Ey6YeaGmNW45x9wUb-Dbzw8xKH8VAZRBWa6moNimn-Uxg9KHzC5RNwL0FUctqg-vl0EMibPx5Y/s400/design-petticoat.jpg" width="220" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For the bodice I had originally planned to use some lovely ivory wool I ordered from DM. Booth Draper, but it was very popular they quickly ran out. Since I'm experimenting with a new pattern (and everything might go tits up) I decided to save it for something else.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
However, since DM. Booth Draper doesn't (to my knowledge) offer swatches I did have a 1/8 yard piece of the same wool that I had previously ordered as a sample. This would be just enough to make 2 half sleeves.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So that's what I did!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQJXqDr_m4sJssBX5njAWGhDHQqo9zS9RrOt3c1SDMyN_BnbP1EGckqLtW6hBE-5imEIlfLUySprlj6vaMDwqeVCrPxnLStE9RIBaa3VrlTtkmPyFE9clrAp119yjHaxCmmYDa3B7M9S4/s1600/huik12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQJXqDr_m4sJssBX5njAWGhDHQqo9zS9RrOt3c1SDMyN_BnbP1EGckqLtW6hBE-5imEIlfLUySprlj6vaMDwqeVCrPxnLStE9RIBaa3VrlTtkmPyFE9clrAp119yjHaxCmmYDa3B7M9S4/s320/huik12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The sleeves are lined and bound in medium weight cream linen. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
They don't attach to anything, but I find the sleeves of the brown gown are tight enough around the bicep that it doesn't matter. They may creep down the arm a little, but a half sleeve is actually easier to shove back into place and out of view that my full sleeve was.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
But I digress... I was talking about petticoat bodies. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Well, I won't keep you in suspense, folks. I did not finish the petticoat bodies in time for Nottingham. Not even close! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
However, this was not a disaster since I knew that I had my <a href="http://wastedweeds.blogspot.com/2015/12/blue-waistcoat-version-40-now-with-ruff.html">red linen petticoat</a> from my last waistcoat outfit on standby just in case. So I continued to work on it whenever I could but decided to prioritize finishing the remaining accessories.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Next was the apron. No problem!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It's virtually identical to my last two aprons: A linen rectangle (roughly 26"x36") with a 1/4" hem all the way around, except the bottom edge which has a 1.5" hem. A waistband is made up separately and then the finished top edge of the apron is whipstitched to finished waistband, with 7" on either side left loose. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
At at 90" this waistband is longer than usual since I wanted enough length for it to comfortably wrap around waist twice and tie at the front (without looking too stubby).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUrsckRUc8L7v3fc040ux64aHQB6oAaHRo9xzk9rSVKCPoQep4omritzQ85cMSmzRTPOmBMaIYdiRh7RZh6N0unbINanYS6PaCL8PrKBbUSnGNjXwlAPKtNxWFPub9EjBvdlxRrxyqi0U/s1600/huik9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUrsckRUc8L7v3fc040ux64aHQB6oAaHRo9xzk9rSVKCPoQep4omritzQ85cMSmzRTPOmBMaIYdiRh7RZh6N0unbINanYS6PaCL8PrKBbUSnGNjXwlAPKtNxWFPub9EjBvdlxRrxyqi0U/s320/huik9.jpg" width="251" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTro6NB9PTBYZt0OpfUtNobFD4A5sk0bCfHfY2_16ZDeO_RhgMP1Skdq8tHUhSev9b2qRUoIvAZj7Ft_RgGERaKxtEE24sQ8-8dj-XSHeA93FHIVkhrsOI0A0B6A6zlhfXCeBdCeBT7VY/s1600/huik10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTro6NB9PTBYZt0OpfUtNobFD4A5sk0bCfHfY2_16ZDeO_RhgMP1Skdq8tHUhSev9b2qRUoIvAZj7Ft_RgGERaKxtEE24sQ8-8dj-XSHeA93FHIVkhrsOI0A0B6A6zlhfXCeBdCeBT7VY/s320/huik10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLSNpZZdCbbgl8w_r3avD93TSJbu5vrSFXSy8BFgVBaCqJlgbz_h_aB4-985WVSUFFeuEl4uxDAUyjgmSduqgiZkE2_x8FG5yJzCSdra8E7R1jo9LL3PqVwbWdhyaONQXBRNwAY6JYic/s1600/huik11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLSNpZZdCbbgl8w_r3avD93TSJbu5vrSFXSy8BFgVBaCqJlgbz_h_aB4-985WVSUFFeuEl4uxDAUyjgmSduqgiZkE2_x8FG5yJzCSdra8E7R1jo9LL3PqVwbWdhyaONQXBRNwAY6JYic/s320/huik11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I can't remember if this is the same black linen I used to line the gown...If not, it's very similar (same source, slightly different dye lots). </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Either way, it's the same material I use...FOR THE HUIK!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now the huik really is the reason for the whole outfit and what attracted me to the de Heere print in the first place (mostly because it's slightly ridiculous, and I love me some dumb hats).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Huiks are essentially large (often brimmed) cloaks which cover the head. They broadly fall into into 3-4 distinct styles which wax and wain over the period. While there is some overlap and evolution, in general timeline is:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The Duck Bill</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkDqC-rYm-kzzojLh7GMq9jFzcYG1eVAiUiLPSQ-d7FEY377oiDx3ysDBVp7bB29E2TpVZgCLv70O_TRmI8DeOZPFTFUthguPv3CAKWMilluVDzD_ysRVEeGMuahoo-Z1zmx4ffK4iRww/s1600/huik1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkDqC-rYm-kzzojLh7GMq9jFzcYG1eVAiUiLPSQ-d7FEY377oiDx3ysDBVp7bB29E2TpVZgCLv70O_TRmI8DeOZPFTFUthguPv3CAKWMilluVDzD_ysRVEeGMuahoo-Z1zmx4ffK4iRww/s320/huik1.jpg" width="125" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpg3YaTKTuIOJuEoLwt7tzeXkBgSQ-D_mW6LmEP8HCloTLHMpQssxgbPU0mYFr_1ceodVVAn_twrywTolOYgA7CLmbDKwwyMQpW5gz_2-t8V6jhK768byNqhIoc1Kgya_df6WraFMSDCM/s1600/huik2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpg3YaTKTuIOJuEoLwt7tzeXkBgSQ-D_mW6LmEP8HCloTLHMpQssxgbPU0mYFr_1ceodVVAn_twrywTolOYgA7CLmbDKwwyMQpW5gz_2-t8V6jhK768byNqhIoc1Kgya_df6WraFMSDCM/s320/huik2.jpg" width="199" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Lucas de Heere and Jacob Gerritsz</span> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The Super Hero</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOABGpAnFMWqBrsgxkiOS9o6arhgSj9YSuSyogDW2OS9uiJg3hRMQ3QgJoXqm02nPpraTryuXdyAvptXUQX73LRBeeX1ZgGR3kgKuglDGSTVfHFdaiMN8ChXUFRbrbK5AahjUgDvLkNYc/s1600/huik5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOABGpAnFMWqBrsgxkiOS9o6arhgSj9YSuSyogDW2OS9uiJg3hRMQ3QgJoXqm02nPpraTryuXdyAvptXUQX73LRBeeX1ZgGR3kgKuglDGSTVfHFdaiMN8ChXUFRbrbK5AahjUgDvLkNYc/s320/huik5.jpg" width="149" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8KsE5ymkaLx3AqVBYUauYYF4DoLW-4q_OeeSnLo45fISI5tlBh3WKxgmeCp34heWLs_9LXAEUNVmvaP4uJaKkIWZ8iXQvb1GnbjHcUaNiolkC4xNa_MtXlGwmgLgYqT6PPQYm_3UN2kw/s1600/huik6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8KsE5ymkaLx3AqVBYUauYYF4DoLW-4q_OeeSnLo45fISI5tlBh3WKxgmeCp34heWLs_9LXAEUNVmvaP4uJaKkIWZ8iXQvb1GnbjHcUaNiolkC4xNa_MtXlGwmgLgYqT6PPQYm_3UN2kw/s320/huik6.jpg" width="173" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Lucas de Heere and Abraham de Bruyn</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The Pot Lid</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBOM7gwiV23IhyhdP8r9ZnkYbjn13L0ifH33hsCDh9TtwJpoMdHIjnTT15x0reH3S9oRFcOA54qBgNBRH0ewcP1aN3NpmaVNmDwunaUoX7gFutiAM0PD_zKZV4ji6_mgHbBPcAXZn2NpE/s1600/huik3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBOM7gwiV23IhyhdP8r9ZnkYbjn13L0ifH33hsCDh9TtwJpoMdHIjnTT15x0reH3S9oRFcOA54qBgNBRH0ewcP1aN3NpmaVNmDwunaUoX7gFutiAM0PD_zKZV4ji6_mgHbBPcAXZn2NpE/s320/huik3.jpg" width="247" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoRq9GvK0ZCwg_XJE23qYYHqFdNNUyTvQktgrME939-FSpLbPqcfzJ8S-Ik3kwyLuXS5eWMrD4bS_xaHyYAacx3o99NyIL_ouEJVUEgLTC4ER0AKiQjwFfz9Unt0ik5FU6ov2IBVs7rvQ/s1600/huik4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoRq9GvK0ZCwg_XJE23qYYHqFdNNUyTvQktgrME939-FSpLbPqcfzJ8S-Ik3kwyLuXS5eWMrD4bS_xaHyYAacx3o99NyIL_ouEJVUEgLTC4ER0AKiQjwFfz9Unt0ik5FU6ov2IBVs7rvQ/s320/huik4.jpg" width="189" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Lucas van Valckenborch</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
And a much later style (The Cat Toy) which is pretty solidly 17th century.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib0V-9mt-WbXjkDay9ziItxfD5rH63Eqf6J5BPwZ3hXgHwFQh41vOk9nXDJjczIpjc1AYN7W9gHgPicXL7ORijX_yTjnh9eyrOAYAeK3yrRjttaKSMr2O-g1D6eq3PqPMRZnXTAEIqxi0/s1600/huik7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib0V-9mt-WbXjkDay9ziItxfD5rH63Eqf6J5BPwZ3hXgHwFQh41vOk9nXDJjczIpjc1AYN7W9gHgPicXL7ORijX_yTjnh9eyrOAYAeK3yrRjttaKSMr2O-g1D6eq3PqPMRZnXTAEIqxi0/s320/huik7.jpg" width="210" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYkEQBw6uQCJzi8x99ZRcug1OslQuWsO73RkCsDTBlVbX0A9vyLB4E-2gW6c-HfEtCTnG-gRrTOJaon8TbtmtWD8IpTVZh239a4l08KybDtly6juz3yjnr7_4cqp7w3tl1CNpZzDxtvqc/s1600/huik8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYkEQBw6uQCJzi8x99ZRcug1OslQuWsO73RkCsDTBlVbX0A9vyLB4E-2gW6c-HfEtCTnG-gRrTOJaon8TbtmtWD8IpTVZh239a4l08KybDtly6juz3yjnr7_4cqp7w3tl1CNpZzDxtvqc/s320/huik8.jpg" width="248" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Wenceslas Hollar and Pieter Soutman</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
(Much thanks to Margaret over at <a href="http://dutchrenaissanceclothing.com/">Clothing the Low Countries</a> for the "Super Scientific" naming conventions! Be sure check out her and Karinne's site for all things Huik)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So I'm making the second style (Super Hero!). </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the past I'd seen at least two of the other styles reproduced but not this one...So I really had no idea how it was constructed or where to start. Suffice to say I almost certainly got it wrong. If fact I'm sure I did.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
To begin with, despite its MASSIVE sweep it probably doesn't have a large, rigid support structure (given the number of times you see images of women with huiks slung over their arms). Part of it may be stiffened, but probably not the whole thing.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So what do I decide to do? A full support structure!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDS7LSqFVh2bZzIv1Nwi02rHQzwXbXQSV9MqnRjlbbrYpR7wrG4rFB43mZBZMx2mx-6oxA2FED_zD5Up08rz4COEP50g0JvPTZyaZF1RnwsZYeFOwXNlNGpdDdNsHOenRAbZApZkOeyw/s1600/huik19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDS7LSqFVh2bZzIv1Nwi02rHQzwXbXQSV9MqnRjlbbrYpR7wrG4rFB43mZBZMx2mx-6oxA2FED_zD5Up08rz4COEP50g0JvPTZyaZF1RnwsZYeFOwXNlNGpdDdNsHOenRAbZApZkOeyw/s320/huik19.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
That's right. I caved and went full buckram. I fully admit that this is purely a theatrical solve and not at all period. But I had a couple of buckram spoon bonnets in the closet and figured it this would be as good a time as any to use them.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And yes, that's <i>bonnets</i>. Plural. In order to get enough support I basically sewed the two bonnets together, with the smaller inside the larger one.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8u7beNcWI6151XFgECLNHcCEmL683MKgEqGY_ZokAG_6hbB7kmVOJEec__UG282sLc1ic9R_PZVRMwC5PGS9ApBhLHHvO_4QwxFNcI6AxWIncCmOo9EzPHqoh8G3eMsAy5JjFsECLeI/s1600/huik20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8u7beNcWI6151XFgECLNHcCEmL683MKgEqGY_ZokAG_6hbB7kmVOJEec__UG282sLc1ic9R_PZVRMwC5PGS9ApBhLHHvO_4QwxFNcI6AxWIncCmOo9EzPHqoh8G3eMsAy5JjFsECLeI/s320/huik20.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUF_OVzX_vlkJvsuk1L3NZENmfg52mMCk4aU3PA9ZNprcFym6Eziwh2b3A8k6w_qW9VlfTp_S5IKu0VodOO5vc1XArIRwVueEDgWc6RWaKF9dLzNhYpoo1iXxbl4tKm-3lur9QLXB4awo/s1600/huik21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUF_OVzX_vlkJvsuk1L3NZENmfg52mMCk4aU3PA9ZNprcFym6Eziwh2b3A8k6w_qW9VlfTp_S5IKu0VodOO5vc1XArIRwVueEDgWc6RWaKF9dLzNhYpoo1iXxbl4tKm-3lur9QLXB4awo/s320/huik21.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now here's where things go off the rail a bit...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
From this point on I'm really making it up as I go along and for some reason my documenting skills go completely out the window and all I have are badly framed iPhone photos. So I apologize for everything looking like the dog's breakfast for a while.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With the bonnets stitched together I then decide to add some wool padding to the interior. First I folded some medium-heavy wool into a rectangle and quilted it. I'm this hoping will act as a cushion for my head and keep the whole thing from shifting around too much. I also add a strip of wool around the back, which is where I'll be securing the veil later. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwifIL686rbbx-F9GCOO1_Cn7cwfDnd3K_sOi5lhkqfJGcHCHfs6BfSMBUuzfIyytthAK5_Yo1r7JW0sWQ7Z6rWnhKB2OgfOIUEPO0UiWSI_TSLMy3M3W2cpiyIeTMnjHDsvNlAGP9few/s1600/IMG_1610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwifIL686rbbx-F9GCOO1_Cn7cwfDnd3K_sOi5lhkqfJGcHCHfs6BfSMBUuzfIyytthAK5_Yo1r7JW0sWQ7Z6rWnhKB2OgfOIUEPO0UiWSI_TSLMy3M3W2cpiyIeTMnjHDsvNlAGP9few/s320/IMG_1610.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">(What's playing on my iPad to the left? That's right! It's Time Team!)</span></div>
<br />
Next I use the same wool and cover the exterior.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_DuXnL01IMD6CKsfl6RzvI1r-ZaefUp2TYyEuHglrE-LXxYh3SrOFPkvwnYHcdx56R3SYPGymrTL-4yK8FCqykE_864tnkoZRPjYfPZyUy_t-FpkIi5HSlB7SNKMZJ73E7E6aRIUeqHE/s1600/IMG_1614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_DuXnL01IMD6CKsfl6RzvI1r-ZaefUp2TYyEuHglrE-LXxYh3SrOFPkvwnYHcdx56R3SYPGymrTL-4yK8FCqykE_864tnkoZRPjYfPZyUy_t-FpkIi5HSlB7SNKMZJ73E7E6aRIUeqHE/s320/IMG_1614.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
After trimming away some wool I realize the whole thing is starting to looks a little like the later 18th century Zaanse Kaper. So that's something...maybe?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBWZtwfhF1EbIxusaB3GouigPQdXz2kkl1lrOyrTk-mMGPWyzh5TRLLVQWUxfaey70lAzG1OM9pSUDIz09szUr1Wa8KlgiYFmuVfEZnbNlGyZpqJ29kR_qp2fhIY6dqJ74I0ZiGDH1RnY/s1600/IMG_1615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBWZtwfhF1EbIxusaB3GouigPQdXz2kkl1lrOyrTk-mMGPWyzh5TRLLVQWUxfaey70lAzG1OM9pSUDIz09szUr1Wa8KlgiYFmuVfEZnbNlGyZpqJ29kR_qp2fhIY6dqJ74I0ZiGDH1RnY/s320/IMG_1615.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgCzA6HZk7JOAut7daJlWcFZBfTfuyLy_MFrH_K-wBooaa8MI6I7ovKSIOpiNcuq6MLg1zk1qpoEY4XMBC00aprW-USZBljRJwdy72PATOvZgrK7X0WxRr1k1uA0aRgVyqWvzRalYvgo/s1600/ac4d8e284dad83bbbc00d9433db36654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgCzA6HZk7JOAut7daJlWcFZBfTfuyLy_MFrH_K-wBooaa8MI6I7ovKSIOpiNcuq6MLg1zk1qpoEY4XMBC00aprW-USZBljRJwdy72PATOvZgrK7X0WxRr1k1uA0aRgVyqWvzRalYvgo/s320/ac4d8e284dad83bbbc00d9433db36654.jpg" width="255" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
After the remaining wool is trimmed away the edges are turned and stitched...hopfeully creating a smooth surface for the veil to rest on later.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyPVmY9amlxCTeY2WQ5Nyz2Dk2B5_sWVW-Fjc2RIZrTqVTLZ409r43Gza4kqc3r8lnXrgHSNBIuWU3ponuli0GUmYjV7wdMGvTDgBKcAwUvwjD0E_D8fn83z29kbgi5v0wB074KpC0uX8/s1600/IMG_1624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyPVmY9amlxCTeY2WQ5Nyz2Dk2B5_sWVW-Fjc2RIZrTqVTLZ409r43Gza4kqc3r8lnXrgHSNBIuWU3ponuli0GUmYjV7wdMGvTDgBKcAwUvwjD0E_D8fn83z29kbgi5v0wB074KpC0uX8/s320/IMG_1624.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As for the veil itself...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The de Heere print shows one of the shortest veils in this style that I've seen.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Usually I'm all for trying to follow silhouette and proportions as much as possible, but in this case I decide to make the veil a little longer for purely practical reasons. It's just much more comfortable to rest my hand at the base of my rib cage rather than across the chest (which is the hand placement in the de Heere print) so I decide to add about 6" to the veil.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
In the original print the artist has rendered both the veil and apron in the same way, so I knew I wanted to make them out of the same fabric to preserve this visual effect. As a result the veil is made from the same linen as the apron even though it really should be made of wool (so should the apron for that matter).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
However, with Nottingham looming I didn't have enough time to source a lightweight black wool so that's another concession I had to make. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Having said that I think I'll make them both up in wool at some point in the future, since the linen is actually quite heavy and I think the whole thing will behave much better in wool.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Anyway!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
There's no real pattern for the veil, I just draped it, cut away the excess and finished it all around with a 1/4" hem. It's then basted to the inside of the bonnet.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYZHDaPcWK5L1bm1q8lAg3yqP4q8XvJqu8RY-1Hgnzz7VUIU_20jabw8uQeCnjfdFBBovt88EHsZ99ehP6Q02_kWdOkkH-poOOiFX_vsN44F2ORP1YSO7jOB5KtQJhXZMM_q54_Nf0dCE/s1600/huik18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYZHDaPcWK5L1bm1q8lAg3yqP4q8XvJqu8RY-1Hgnzz7VUIU_20jabw8uQeCnjfdFBBovt88EHsZ99ehP6Q02_kWdOkkH-poOOiFX_vsN44F2ORP1YSO7jOB5KtQJhXZMM_q54_Nf0dCE/s320/huik18.jpg" width="296" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMvyMazFni7c6h152WOfhDPu2pt6J8fQgL81h1IDlN-z_4J3NJdlhSBoodTXLyJzUBdSGv_Hp7gM39GOFav2Q6jrYSBFAMYS_7tVELrmsCTLXbpjPxMyZHaONKR4Le_JG31j2Fw3BaiO8/s1600/huik17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMvyMazFni7c6h152WOfhDPu2pt6J8fQgL81h1IDlN-z_4J3NJdlhSBoodTXLyJzUBdSGv_Hp7gM39GOFav2Q6jrYSBFAMYS_7tVELrmsCTLXbpjPxMyZHaONKR4Le_JG31j2Fw3BaiO8/s320/huik17.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div>
And that's it! Huik achievement unlocked!<br />
The shape isn't exactly right, but it's not bad all things considered...</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOnKEBSr60ilpjK861j0x_Dtz6HL-bbu5P_qkxk0FP0Mwt2RaXVoWysatIBL_PhOnWbalIpkBOpHOtbhpsUlmjDh1tjeOWiLPjNfVtgcHAjDznNCjB-B2-ZDPi1lVsYALHjLafHmA3nl0/s1600/huik14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOnKEBSr60ilpjK861j0x_Dtz6HL-bbu5P_qkxk0FP0Mwt2RaXVoWysatIBL_PhOnWbalIpkBOpHOtbhpsUlmjDh1tjeOWiLPjNfVtgcHAjDznNCjB-B2-ZDPi1lVsYALHjLafHmA3nl0/s320/huik14.jpg" width="301" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIaa8Sct7VgDKakyCaxDdoHxqX5YmCLyoFfVvIqzpetJA5Q-j82HBeb-9ThjdIYcwMYpM9Sch3SwEINQXc5554vjPi8BrOoHx0vNFF2VFvoSw9Hy2Ww2BBhRBGLtX0zeLlEtxzygvT6Fg/s1600/huik13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIaa8Sct7VgDKakyCaxDdoHxqX5YmCLyoFfVvIqzpetJA5Q-j82HBeb-9ThjdIYcwMYpM9Sch3SwEINQXc5554vjPi8BrOoHx0vNFF2VFvoSw9Hy2Ww2BBhRBGLtX0zeLlEtxzygvT6Fg/s320/huik13.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPJx8nIFqGvTXgSJKUx5xhSz6lw6uWlRHHOe1thcJ5v-vlve_WCtQZ1JS-nZR5fNBobqh5v1dSH1DArYO0nyh2uVCNcAPGPHlWkREdvOUIr27rcf6X_sYwQzvTN4sY_rb4GfCz1Ujwg50/s1600/huik15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPJx8nIFqGvTXgSJKUx5xhSz6lw6uWlRHHOe1thcJ5v-vlve_WCtQZ1JS-nZR5fNBobqh5v1dSH1DArYO0nyh2uVCNcAPGPHlWkREdvOUIr27rcf6X_sYwQzvTN4sY_rb4GfCz1Ujwg50/s320/huik15.jpg" width="261" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqkOwT-tcpWcaQg5dadfDs50YrNy_rHGe2_vywXDWr_T8Sg0K080FEsN5q2jlnqgB9AH-btvGbW5gmqmraWZtGUmcsFmLykUdZmKEFpxdkIPRvbYRgjRIKpkq-shLFxsqnRIBt0Dprevw/s1600/huik16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqkOwT-tcpWcaQg5dadfDs50YrNy_rHGe2_vywXDWr_T8Sg0K080FEsN5q2jlnqgB9AH-btvGbW5gmqmraWZtGUmcsFmLykUdZmKEFpxdkIPRvbYRgjRIKpkq-shLFxsqnRIBt0Dprevw/s320/huik16.jpg" width="224" /></a></div>
<br />
At this point I return to my petticoat bodies, but only barely manage to get the bodice pieces assembled before Nottingham Faire.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs8qRHzJSNc2jEF6fZ9HChvreyh9oRwyBRy60GOrjpzJaiOcVdjIcn5LzPgByC2rsuBz9Ihgcp2lOqnPx7BS2bn6dPrjRW0KeIsZ812PfFvfM-h83ikkNvrqIjDlv1F0PNN-y1vW5D1xs/s1600/bodies01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs8qRHzJSNc2jEF6fZ9HChvreyh9oRwyBRy60GOrjpzJaiOcVdjIcn5LzPgByC2rsuBz9Ihgcp2lOqnPx7BS2bn6dPrjRW0KeIsZ812PfFvfM-h83ikkNvrqIjDlv1F0PNN-y1vW5D1xs/s320/bodies01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
But that's okay! Red Petticoat to the rescue!<br />
The only downside is that I don't have any support through the bodice. I decide to wear one of my muslin mock-ups for the new bodice pattern, but it didn't really do much. Still, better than nothing...<br />
<br />
Final accessories include my small ruff, American Duchess shoes, and a sheer Dutch cap from Louise Pass over at <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/woodsholme?ref=shopinfo_shophome_leftnav&section_id=6258434">Woodsholme Handworks</a>.<br />
I also add a corded petticoat (1840s, if I'm honest) to keep my hem off the ground this time.<br />
<br />
And that's it! Lucas de Heere outfit complete!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1ZH9Ou0YoX7Bzf0ww2WFFfgiXBlK1RyXp8BMY4mclL36WrNexIdgw3QPePpqYKCtuWbM7ca_5j-xbCVpBAQhRTY5YMqfaq7H7UG0wUhLZ9pIzYdF7kRKyT_pisrfXXowFqAT88BqgmU/s1600/huik1-border.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1ZH9Ou0YoX7Bzf0ww2WFFfgiXBlK1RyXp8BMY4mclL36WrNexIdgw3QPePpqYKCtuWbM7ca_5j-xbCVpBAQhRTY5YMqfaq7H7UG0wUhLZ9pIzYdF7kRKyT_pisrfXXowFqAT88BqgmU/s320/huik1-border.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYG7ToQXc_cNZ5IbE_YwheEZqDfn9CHUJe_fhBFkcIoFwwenpzDIQWk4Z8MacMqZwy91TLZ_V1_PQAVxV3YZDcOQ0NZfZKAZav7DWkq_O__mabhrfIYZdd5Y_kO8UmP8FEWQbrKoxuPNU/s1600/huik2-border.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYG7ToQXc_cNZ5IbE_YwheEZqDfn9CHUJe_fhBFkcIoFwwenpzDIQWk4Z8MacMqZwy91TLZ_V1_PQAVxV3YZDcOQ0NZfZKAZav7DWkq_O__mabhrfIYZdd5Y_kO8UmP8FEWQbrKoxuPNU/s320/huik2-border.jpg" width="209" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgen9ynjCB4f0OXuWJ0DhOEU2LMwGkPrNTuF6O7szrpSLu63cbt-gG65bRT60dTnGx2bTX_xmpEzp5WwPNM1bSXcJNblkFd7rm2KDigc7JhttO7k4yf8_T_gpY9E0qEycGX0Ffre8L8JqY/s1600/huik3-border5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgen9ynjCB4f0OXuWJ0DhOEU2LMwGkPrNTuF6O7szrpSLu63cbt-gG65bRT60dTnGx2bTX_xmpEzp5WwPNM1bSXcJNblkFd7rm2KDigc7JhttO7k4yf8_T_gpY9E0qEycGX0Ffre8L8JqY/s320/huik3-border5.jpg" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUjpI6cnp4r9oTLPOL8S19Gjt00P9vzk_nQTmMkfkYrWcGpXk0aZ_aw7s87SLok1ojFiLZiHsP5B0pk_XZtk8Hk0eiXCppO1NqIm_hNARe7Ih4PjSNw39PjGXXsCsO7Un7i6fHJZhkYo/s1600/huik4-border+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUjpI6cnp4r9oTLPOL8S19Gjt00P9vzk_nQTmMkfkYrWcGpXk0aZ_aw7s87SLok1ojFiLZiHsP5B0pk_XZtk8Hk0eiXCppO1NqIm_hNARe7Ih4PjSNw39PjGXXsCsO7Un7i6fHJZhkYo/s320/huik4-border+copy.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And finally, something a little different, just for fun...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXmDcquaJ4KrqtmvQkeP-1EteiEBOESyB9DoFZNZexrYcGqZTf0USXnD_CvYX8ESLzIrn6Qo2RO4__kRlTEKxSSz8KEBcbjF-3wW1Utcx3U0vfPKVW04jzHLA-f9A2KvgBLXPgkNokOo/s1600/huik5-blue-a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXmDcquaJ4KrqtmvQkeP-1EteiEBOESyB9DoFZNZexrYcGqZTf0USXnD_CvYX8ESLzIrn6Qo2RO4__kRlTEKxSSz8KEBcbjF-3wW1Utcx3U0vfPKVW04jzHLA-f9A2KvgBLXPgkNokOo/s400/huik5-blue-a.jpg" width="251" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
Even though it's not totally true to the original print I'm really pleased with the final result!</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I think I can still make a few refinements with the accessories, but overall I'm much happier with this version...if only for the more period correct colour pallet.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
And I'm really looking forward to experimenting with different looks and more accessories in the future! </div>
***</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<u style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Resources & Materials</span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Fabric:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Dark Brown Wool/Cashmere from <a href="http://www.moodfabrics.com/">Mood Fabrics</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-White Wool from <a href="http://wmboothdraper.com/">WM Booth Draper</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Black "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Cream "Judy" linen (5.5oz) <a href="http://www.mcssl.com/store/gray-lines-linen-inc/handkerchiefs/judy-linen">Gray Line Linen</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Thread:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Black silk thread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Ivory silk tread</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Heavy duty Poly tread (for sewing bonnets)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
Other Supplies:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Buckram Bonnet forms from <a href="http://www.timelytresses.com/">Timely Tresses</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
-Small bulldog clips</div>
Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3307546813979726396.post-89882124678078955662016-10-27T17:53:00.001-07:002016-11-06T11:23:10.361-08:00Brown Fitted Gown (v2.0) Preview<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
***</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbWx8zyKpOgQKydr6AP83w5olX4cnGEt5MmbaOqD_jlwmkxKEm7ESxvd9Z9wNv1gtWy0qWCxYO2-oGOZ97t6FIwx82hJ9lm8f2zf9dsUtGEw8og8eWblaR8mirpHx03hutWPMFCUwUxNU/s1600/huik-side-finals.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbWx8zyKpOgQKydr6AP83w5olX4cnGEt5MmbaOqD_jlwmkxKEm7ESxvd9Z9wNv1gtWy0qWCxYO2-oGOZ97t6FIwx82hJ9lm8f2zf9dsUtGEw8og8eWblaR8mirpHx03hutWPMFCUwUxNU/s400/huik-side-finals.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Preview of the next iteration of my brown fitted gown (inspired by a Lucas de Heere print). </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I'm trying to hit an event deadline and I've got three weeks to go...so look for a full post soon!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
</div>
Jennhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08013378967522569657noreply@blogger.com0