Blue Kirtle "Mix & Match"

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Welcome to the photo dump for my new blue kirtle (the construction of which was recently documented in my latest Dress Diary).

Based on early 16th century illustrations, the kirtle laces up the front and features short sleeves, a 'V' back, and a shaped skirt (constructed with piecing).

It was originally inspired by a page from Catherine de Medici's Book of Hours.

Although less popular later in the century, blue seemed to be a fairly ubiquitous colour in the first decades of the 16th century (and earlier).

Inspired by period images, it was clear that it could be infinitely adapted by swapping out a few accessories.

So first things, first: I whip up some new sleeves!

A LOT of sleeves...

(so many that I won't be able to get to all the different combination in this post)

All the sleeves are 3/4 length and are simple tubes which taper to the wrist.

They are lined with various colours of linen (basically whatever I had in my stash)

Okay...

Let the Mix & Match begin!!!

The first look is just the basic kirtle with the addition of a white, un-gathered apron.

The result is a sort of low-rent, early 16th c. Belle...

Adding on....

A lot of the images of female field workers show blue kirtles and red sleeves, so that seemed a fun place to start.

This look incudes a large vintage sunhat.

And a leather belt and purse from Karl Robinson - Leatherworker.

The next iteration is basically the same, but with the white apron swapped out for a beige one...and a broom!

The broom is a one that I picked up at the Renaissance Faire some years ago. It's aggressively rustic in appearance and I love it!

Next up...more props!

This time, a basket and some fake bread and veg that I picked up at a craft store.

Right. These red sleeves are great, but it's getting a bit boring...

Let's do it all again, but with green!

Next big hat is swapped out for a smaller, conical one and the skirt bustled up for work.

(I think this look is just okay...I really needed a partlet or shoulder linen to get closer to the period images.)

Okay, field workers are fun, but it's time to dress things up a bit...

Let's start with one of the staples of early Tudor fashion: a black, pointy partlet.

Details of two Brueghel paintings

The partlet is made of black wool and lined in black linen.

(The pattern is self drafted.)

 A small pewter hook from The Tudor Tailor is stitched to the point.

This is combined with  my black apron.

And a large, white, felted hat from Sally Pointer.

And finally, a pair of white wool sleeves.

I like this look a lot.

I feel like you most often see this style of hat worn with a large, linen shoulder square (as in several Holbein paintings and sketches). 

I did make a linen yard square specifically for that purpose....and then forgot to get any photos of it.

Oh, well...

Lastly, one of the inspiration images that kicked off the blue kirtle project to begin with: A Witches' Coven! 

(I mean, who doesn't love a good hexing?)

The Witches' Cove, Follower of Jan Mandijn

The ensemble uses most of the pieces from the outfit above, but with the white sleeves swapped for light yellow ones.

And of course every self-respecting Witch needs a broom!

And that's it! Blue kirtle Mix & Match is (sort of) complete!

Really, I could have tried even more iterations and combinations but ran out of time.

However, I did take a couple of more costume-y variations....but this post was already getting crazy long, so look for that in a separate upload later this week.

(NOTE: That post can now be found HERE)

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