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As documented in an earlier post, I recently finished a brown wool doublet (well, not so recently, but we'll that that slide...)
Made of scrap fabric, it was originally intended as a practice piece to learn some tailoring techniques and so the design was always a bit of a hodge-podge.
This made stying the outfit somewhat difficult, since without a firm inspiration image or decade to work from everything just seemed a little off.
I couldn't settle on what the look was really meant to be, so I just ended up throwing a ton of accessories at it just to see what would happen.
And I have to say...it worked out surprisingly well!
So buckle up and get ready for a photo dump...
First I pulled a bevy of period (mostly early 17th c.) images from different sources that roughly showed the silhouette I was looking for. None quite match the doublet I had actually made, but it at least they were in the ballpark.
Even if I couldn't quite copy any image exactly this at least gave me a "feel" to shoot for.
The first look is the one featured in my dress diary...
It's a classic (very) late Elizabethan/early Jacobean look. Just a coif, cuff and ruff.
The ruff made of 2.8oz linen. It is 3.25" wide at set with 2" sets.
The cuffs are simple strips of 2.8oz linen, pleated and sewn into a wrist band.
The cap is the one I made for my Trevelyon gown, and as also worn over a close fitted coif.
Again, the front edge is lightly starched and then shaped and pinned in to place.
Next is the same look, but with the top coif/cap left off and replaced with a tall, black capotain hat.
The hat is wool felt and trimmed with a twist of black silk (by Timblebee Millinery)
To make the collar, first a paper pattern is cut with the rough shape that I want.
The linen is then pleated and stitched down to form a crescent.
I found it easiest to place the strip on top of the paper patter and then just make a fold wherever was needed.
The neckband is purposely made a little longer so that I can pin the ends to the inside of the doublet, allowing it to be worn both open and closed.
The hat is a beautiful, large 17th century style by M. Brenckle, Hatter and is inspired by the work of Wenceslas Hollar.
Admittedly the pleats turned out a little wonky...
That because I tried to starch them after they were pinned, but they dried sort of...squiggly. And then I was too lazy to re-pin it and just stitched the pleats down as they were. Next time I'll starch ahead of time.
Finally, a neck band is attached.
(I have no evidence for it being done this way in period, it's just what was easiest for me)
I like the collar a lot. I think it's very crisp and looks sharp with the cuffs.
So I tried it it with just a coif...and liked it a lot less.
I think this look is...okay.
I mean, it's fine, but it's not my favouite. I don't think it works quite as well without the hat.
So instead the collar was swapped for a ruff...A BIG RUFF!
This is my largest ruff to date.
It's 5.25" wide and set with 3/4" sets.
Ruff mid-set
Really, it's a beast.
It definitely needs a supportasse to support the weight in the back (this one by Woodsholme Handworks on Etsy).
(One of these days I'd like to cover it with some silk thread)
I also try this with an apron...but again, I'm not overly pleased with the results.
Something about the apron worn over the doublet isn't doing much for me...except making me look pregnant.
(But hey, that's a very 17th century silhouette, so....result? I guess?)
Okay! Ditch the apron!
How about a big hat?
You know me! Love the crazy hats!
But I'm getting a bit bored of the matching petticoat, so let's change it up...
Next is a dark green (though photographs as black) petticoat originally made for my rust waistcoat project.
I REALLY like this look.
It might be my favourite so far.
The pleated linen collar is back, as is the apron (which I think looks a lot better worn under the doublet).
Also making appearance is another capotain hat by Timblebee Millinery, this time in brown felt with a chocolate brown silk band.
Right.
Let's stick with this petticoat and push the silhouette even further...
The big 17thc. hat is back, as is another ruff.
This one is 4.25" wide set with 2" sets and made with the same 2.8oz linen.
And under it all I've got my trusty red wool petticoat!
(originally attached to a bodice for my first attempt at petticoat bodies, but now just a skirt)
This last look is probably my favourite.
I didn't think it would, but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised... I've always loved Wenceslas Hollar's etchings and always planned to do a Hollar-inspired look.
This isn't exactly Hollar, but it's darn close.
Okay! That's it!
In the end I had a lot of fun with this project, even though I was never quite sure what it was meant to be as I was making it.
Just goes to show what a huge difference accessories can make!
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