Rust Waistcoat

***

This waistcoat has been on my to do list for a long time...

...and it still is.

Kinda.

I originally intended this as a quick project, using the exact pattern and construction method as my trusty old blue waistcoat. 

The only thing I tweaked was the size of the godets. In addition to gaining a bit of weight, my skirts are narrower and less full than the ones I used to make, which means my waist to hip ratio isn't as large as it used to be. As a result I don't need as much of a flare in the waistcoat and wanted to reduce the overall circumference of the bottom edge. However, I did the math wrong and the godet at the back was too small, resulting in some creasing and pulling at the waist.

I also somehow managed to put the wings in the wrong way, which is a bit of an embarrassing mistake and definitely the biggest one I've made on any of my recent projects.

The wool was also not as high quality as I usually like.  It doesn't take pinning very well and so I really struggled with getting the front closure to look correct (and it wrinkles more than I'd like).

On top of that I realized that the latest research indicates that this style of garment shouldn't really have godets at all...

So long story short, the project didn’t quite go according to plan and I'm planning on making this waistcoat again, without godets and with the lacing front seen in the inspiration image. 

"The Fish Market" Jacob Gerritsz Cuyp, 1627

I have plenty of wool left over, and though it may not be the best quality it really is a great match colour-wise.  I'd been search for ages to find the right rust wool (not too red, not too orange) and really lucked out on both that and the skirt.

So, superficially at least, I think this outfit is a success! 

But where I think this outfit really shines is in the way it can be re-styled for a totally different look! (Which is why waistcoats will always be my first love...)

***

Accessories

Blackwork coif by Truly Hats

Wool flat cap by Sally Pointer

Leather belt and purse by Karl Robinson

Resources & Materials

Pattern:  

- The Tudor Tailor (book and/or ready-made pattern)

-17th Century Women's Dress Patterns Book 1

Fabric:

-Rust wool from The Fabric Market

-Green Herringbone wool from Mood Fabrics

-Cream "Judy" linen (5.5oz)  Gray Line Linen

-White linen (2.8oz) from WM Booth Draper

Thread:

-Rust Cotton thread

-Beige cotton thread

-Black cotton thread

Other Supplies:

-Swedish pattern paper from Amazon. (This stuff is great! You can iron it!)

-Pattern weights

-3/4" Bias tape maker